Our Green Plate / Fall 2017 by Our Green Plate

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CHICAGO / NORTHWEST / FALL 2017

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$5.95 / COMPLIMENTARY WITH PURCHASE

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Harvest Dinner Preparing a fall feast with chefs’ recipes

Meet the Artisan

The Craft is Back

An all-grass farmer makes the case for happier animals and healthier food

Local artisans brew world-class beer

The Mighty Apple

Affirming its place at the table

Live the season. Celebrate our local table.

At Bleuroot we feature

Experience creatively imagined farm to plate cuisine.

an ever-changing seasonal menu, our mission is to provide delicious and inventive dishes made from the freshest local and regional sources.

Always in season, always good for the soul.

847-844-0047–98 W Main Street–West Dundee, IL 60118 Monday–Tuesday–Wednesday 11am–10pm Thursday–Friday 11am–12am Saturday 9am–12am Sunday 9am–10pm Brunch is served Saturdays & Sundays 9am–2pm www.bleuroot.com

ContentsX

FE AT URE S

14 10

THE CRAFT IS BACK 14 Local artisans brew world-class beer. Plus: Finding Your Beer Place 16 Your Craft Beer Primer 18

GATHER YOUR FRIENDS, PREPARE A FEAST 24 Chefs and their recipes inspire a home cook’s harvest dinner.

LIVING FULLY, STEPPING LIGHTLY 32

DE PA RT ME N T S

Local innovators share their ideas on sustainability.

STAFF PICKS | Seasonal Favorites 4

M E ET T H E A RT I S A N

HAPPY ANIMALS, HAPPY FARMER, HAPPY THANKSGIVING 36 Cliff McConville makes the case for happier animals and healthier food. ON THE COVER: Photograph by Brian Donahue Styling by Catherine Chifflot Nealey A big thank you to the folks at All Grass Farms for letting us interrupt their farm day while we took the cover photo. Also, thanks to Bob’s Fresh & Local for the garlic and produce.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

ne of the pleasures of publishing a magazine is getting to know the people who drive your editorial content. For me that means chefs, farmers, brewers, purveyors and the like. I meet interesting people doing some really cool things. Our Green Plate is a departure from my previous foray into publishing, which was pretty corporate and a bit dry. Now I get to regularly talk with a wide cast of characters who share a passion and commitment to their respective crafts. Their enthusiasm is contagious. I have seen and tasted firsthand the upside of dedication. While working on this fall issue, I met some of the talented individuals sparking the remarkable resurgence of craft brewing in Chicagoland. Many of them have stepped away from a life in corporate America and never looked back. These brewers were happy to tell me about their latest beer offerings. They were always gracious as I fumbled my way through their menus, and always patient as they made recommendations based on my preferences. They genuinely wanted me to share in the fun they are having brewing and experimenting. I found that many in the locally sourced food and drink world have walked away from traditional work environments. In this issue’s “Meet the Artisan” piece, you will meet Cliff McConville, owner of All Grass Farms. He too left a long commute and the constraints of the corporate world behind. He has found his purpose in the quiet life and busy routine of milking cows, and keeping his animals happy and healthy. Not an easy task by any means, but he considers the work and risks worth the reward of delivering great-tasting, healthy food to his customers and restaurants. Then, there are the culinary artists. Hallie Wright, who wrote our harvest dinner feature, had the opportunity to sit down with a few of our chefs and farm-to-table proprietors. She can tell you that the pace of conversation accelerated as these chefs started talking about the farms and markets from which they source their foodstuffs. It is apparent that nothing excites them more than seeing what they can whip up with fresh ingredients of the season. Those who are passionate about what they do don’t mind sharing either. Chefs, thank you for your recipes. Also in this issue, we touch upon new and novel approaches to the way we live our daily lives. We interviewed a few of our local innovators, each of whom offers a product, service or lifestyle that can help us all carry on in life a little more quietly and with an eye to the future. Across the board, the passion and energy of the folks who reconnect us to the places we are from is irresistible. I can’t help but want to participate. This season I, for one, will enjoy better food, drink better beer and support those businesses who are fully connected to their communities and to a more sustainable future. I hope you enjoy meeting them in the pages of Our Green Plate as much as we have meeting them in person. Perhaps you can meet 2 | OUR GREEN PLATE

PHOTO: BRIAN DONAHUE

Across the TableX them yourself. Did I mention it’s fall? This is when living where we do really pays off. The farms are open, a new season of produce makes its way to our tables and the spirit of Oktoberfest fills the air. Enjoy. Finally, I want to welcome Amy Hartke to the Our Green Plate team. Amy will be helping with distribution of the magazine. We are thrilled to see Our Green Plate being picked up and read. Thank you to our advertisers for making that possible. Please help me in thanking them by patronizing their fine establishments! Copies of Our Green Plate are available at local retailers, farms, restaurants, coffee shops and taprooms throughout the northwest and western suburbs. That can present a problem if you’re looking for a copy and they’re all gone, so you can also subscribe to the magazine for $20 a year. Four times a year, it will be delivered to your mailbox, and you’ll receive a copy before anyone else, besides me, of course. Thank you for your support! Grab a plate,

Pam Sandbulte-Meitzler, Editor & Publisher pam@ourgreenplate.com While we celebrate our region's foodshed, our circulation is focused in the following suburbs of Chicago.

Woodstock Crystal Lake

McHenry

Wauconda Lake Zurich

Cary Algonquin

Libertyville

Long Grove The Barringtons Palatine

West Dundee East Dundee

Arlington Heights

Schaumburg

Elgin

St Charles

Glen Ellyn

Chicago

Geneva Batavia Warrenville

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PUBLISHER & EDITOR Pam Sandbulte-Meitzler pam@ourgreenplate.com SENIOR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Dale I. Juffernbruch Hallie Wright CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Kristina Anderson Tracie Bedell Armen Kholamian Kelly Villasuso COPY EDITOR/SOCIAL MEDIA DIRECTOR Ashley Meitzler CREATIVE DIRECTOR Catherine Chifflot Nealey ART DIRECTOR Brian Donahue GRAPHIC DESIGNER Jessica Collette CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Catherine Chifflot Nealey Flora Gorman Dale I. Juffernbruch Robin Lietz DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Amy Hartke, info@ourgreenplate.com CONTACT US Our Green Plate, 6 Wood Creek Rd., Barrington, IL 60010 847-829-6985 / info@ourgreenplate.com Issue No. 2 Our Green Plate is published quarterly by Our Green Plate, LLC. All rights reserved. ©2017 Our Green Plate is distributed by our retail and farm partners throughout Chicago’s northwest and western suburbs and nationally by subscription. Subscription rate is $20 annually, single copies are $5.95 plus postage. For advertising, subscription, or single copy inquiries, please contact us at the address, email or phone number listed above.

Our Green Plate is printed on Lynx Opaque, a 10% post consumer waste paper. Our printer, eDOC Communications of Mount Prospect, IL is FSC® certified.

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One-year: $20 (4 issues) Two-years $36 (8 issues) To subscribe, send a check to: Our Green Plate, 6 Wood Creek Rd. Barrington, IL 60010. Please include your name, address, phone and email. (Let us know if it’s a gift.)

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Live the season. Celebrate our local table. FALL 2017 | 3

STAFF PICKS

What’s InY BY DALE I. JUFFERNBRUCH

Fish of the Season Most of us are familiar with the seasonality of fruits and vegetables. We associate pumpkins with fall, sweet corn with summer, radishes with spring…. What we are far less familiar with is seafood seasonality. Is there such a thing? For many of us, seafood seasonality begins and ends with a salmon run, but we are learning that eating seafood seasonally matters a great deal, for the environment and the palate. We asked fish purveyor, Frank Radogna, owner of Franco’s Pescheria in Lake Zurich why seafood in season might be important. Without hesitation, he cites absolute freshness and taste. Frank says that too often people (myself included) tell him they’ve had a bad experience with fish. “The stories are almost always the same. They go to a grocery store and buy what they think is fresh fish, only it’s been previously frozen and thawed. Then they take it home to cook and find it tastes fishy or it makes their house smell like fish.” He says these problems are mostly the result of poor quality fish, fish that’s been frozen for too long, or fish that was thawed improperly. Frank is adamant: the best fish is not frozen, is wild caught at it peak flavor, and is a breeze to cook.

All the Fish in the Sea Frank went on to say that people tend to go for the same types of fish, which brings us to the next reason to eat fish seasonally: it would moderate the problem of overfishing that many species face. If we ate a broader variety of fish species by eating what is naturally available, we would even out demand for the “mainstream” fish, and lessen the problems associated with overfishing. We would also presumably start eating more locally caught fish, like walleye, catfish, lake trout, and yes, smelt. To that end, we asked for a recipe featuring a fish for late fall. Frank decided on the Hawaiian opah. My heritage is Hawaiian, so I am especially pleased with his suggestion. Here are two recipes from Frank that are easy to prepare and really let you taste the freshness and quality of the fish. Opah are rich and creamy in taste and firm in texture. Enjoy.

Hawaiian Opah Serves 2 as an entree, or 4-5 as an appetizer. 2-inch thick piece of opah (about 1 lb.) lemon sea salt

Sear opah for 1 1/2 – 2 minutes on each side. Similar to tuna, leave it rare in the middle and slice into 1/4 inch slices. Drizzle with Franco’s homemade sweet wasabi sauce, and a bit of lemon and sea salt. 4 | OUR GREEN PLATE

2nd option: Season the opah with sea salt, olive oil and lemon. Cook for 2 1/2 – 3 minutes per side. In place of sweet wasabi sauce, top with Franco’s mango salsa. We suggest serving with an arugula, lemon and sea salt salad or a nice vegetable risotto.

BY ASHLEY MEITZLER

The Overnight Low This time of year, I always watch the evening weather report to catch “the overnight low.” That meaningful number determines how long we might expect our favorite vegetables and fruit to handle the elements. For sure some vegetables keep for weeks or months after being harvested, but the day they are taken from the ground or plucked off the vine is the day the clock begins ticking on their shelf life. Maybe that’s why I have a tendency to stretch harvesting to the last degree, or maybe I don’t want to acknowledge what I know is coming, winter.

Jack Frost The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map puts Northern Illinois solidly in zone 5. This means our risk of frost is anytime from October 9 through May 1. The Farmer’s Almanac says frost occurs when air temperatures dip below 32 degrees F and ice crystals form on plant leaves. It’s downhill from there. There is light freeze, moderate freeze, and finally...hard freeze. A hard freeze is a period of at least four consecutive hours with temperature below 24 degrees F. Plants have varying degrees of tolerance to cold. “Tender” are injured and sometimes killed by frost. “Frost tolerant” are plants which can survive an hour or two of freezing or near freezing temperature, and then there’s, “very hardy.” They are my heroes. The mornings after a particularly cold overnight, I check outside to see how they’re faring. I view every day the “very hardy” survive out there as a day stolen from winter. Take that, Jack. My list of favorite hardy fall heroes are: apples, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, kale, kohlrabi, onions, spinach, turnips, rutabaga and my favorite late season hero...leeks. Commonly overlooked in favor of their allium cousin, the onion, I favor the more delicate flavor of a leek, especially in soups.

The recipe is from Jennifer Segal, Once Upon a Chef.

Potato Leek Soup Serves 6 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 4 leeks, white and light green parts only, roughly chopped 3 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed 2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and roughly chopped into ½ inch pieces 7 cups low sodium chicken or vegetable broth 2 bay leaves 1 sprig fresh thyme, plus more for garnish if desired 1 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 cup heavy cream chives, finely chopped (optional) bacon, crumbled (optional)

Melt butter over medium heat in a large soup pot. Add the leeks and

Remove the thyme sprig and bay leaves, then puree the soup

garlic and cook, stirring regularly, until soft and wilted, about 10 min-

with a hand-held immersion blender until smooth. (Alternatively, use a

utes. Adjust the heat as necessary so as not to brown.

standard blender to puree the soup in batches.) Add the heavy cream

Add the potatoes, stock, bay leaves, thyme, salt and pepper to pot

and bring to a simmer. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

and bring to a boil. Cover and turn the heat down to low. Simmer for 15

If soup is too thin, simmer until thickened. It it’s too thick, add water or

minutes, or until the potatoes are very soft.

stock to thin out. Garnish with fresh herbs, or bacon if desired.

FALL 2017 | 5

WHAT'S ON OUR PLATE WHAT’S

The UbiquitousW

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Each fall the mighty apple affirms its place at the table. BY KRISTINA ANDERSON

t’s a toss-up as to which is the greater harbinger of autumn with all its deeply hued gifts, the apple or the pumpkin. The pumpkin’s versatility and decorative charms are compelling, but for me — like Eve — the apple is most alluring. This charming fruit speaks to us on an instinctive level. In the fall especially, we crave its subtle sweetness and snap. It’s hard to imagine that there were more than 15,000 varieties of apples grown within the U.S. in the early 1900s. Now there are fewer than 500, and of these, only about a dozen are typically sold in large grocery stores. Fortunately, growers are bringing back more heirloom varieties. These heirloom varieties are rarely the prettiest ones, though. In fact, their distinguishing characteristic might be mishapenness. But the apple-minded will tell you that the most complex, succulent tasting apples are these varieties. In addition, heirloom varieties tend to have more phytonutrients — a set of compounds produced by plants that keep them healthy. Their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory properties benefit all who partake of the juicy fruit. Breeding apples for size and sweetness has, it turns out, led to a reduction in many phytonutrients, including vitamin E. That said, there are many great tasting, modern apples still packing a nutritional punch. Some of our modern apples are a bit higher in nutrients than others. The better ones include Braeburn, Gala, Granny Smith, Honeycrisp and McIntosh. Interestingly, the least nutritious apple you can eat is also the most popular one in the United States: the Golden Delicious. Whichever apple you choose to eat or cook with, you should know that about 50 percent of the nutrients are in the skin. This means that you will want to seek out organic apples. If you choose otherwise, make sure that you scrub your apples very thoroughly, but this still may not remove all the pesticide and fungicide residue. Modern apples are sprayed with chemicals as often as 15 times in one season, a fact I admit to finding disturbing. I learned these facts and much more from Jo Robinson’s book Eating on the Wild Side: The Missing Link to Optimum Health. I highly recommend it for its easy-to-read review of the history and health benefits of many fruits and vegetables. 6 | OUR GREEN PLATE

Finding apples grown with less chemical intervention (or none at all) isn’t an easy task. Aaron Isaacman of the Barn Nursery in Crystal Lake points out, “There’s an old saying among apple farmers: Spray early, and spray often.” However, there are a few natural sprays derived from plants and minerals, which can help. He notes that there are many apple tree diseases and pests that can affect production and quality, and recommends planting disease-resistant, hardy varieties, such as Empire, SnowSweet and Triple Play. The latter is a tree with three varieties grafted onto one trunk, which allows for pollination and good fruit production. One can also seek landscaping firms like self-described tree-huggers, Ringers Landscaping, in Fox River Grove, who offer tree and lawn-care plans that are more sustainably oriented and less chemical intensive. Illinois is well-suited for growing apples. You can purchase trees from many nurseries such as the Barn Nursery. When seeking out a vendor, be sure you find one who has apple tree expertise. You may want to try an apple tree from semi-dwarf rootstock. This type of tree maintains a smaller size, which results in easier harvesting. Also, many of these trees produce fruit the first year. Fall is apple season and the best time to enjoy its many charms. There is something simple and just plain satisfying about eating an apple out of hand, enjoying fresh-pressed cider on a crisp autumn day or experimenting with a new apple recipe. If you haven’t tried the magical combination of bourbon, fresh-pressed cider and some ginger beer or fresh ginger slices, now is the time! Want to try something a bit lighter? Whip up an apple bellini. Use one part apple cider and two parts champagne or prosecco. LOCAL APPLES: Illinois has plenty of apple orchards. You might consider Harvard’s Royal Oak Farm Orchard which boasts the country’s only apple tree maze. A full listing of regional orchards can be found at: www.orangepippin.com/orchards.

FALL 2017 | 7

WHAT’S ON OUR PLATE

Ambrosia Apple Frangipane Tart Serves 8-10 Tart shell dough: 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour ¾ cup cane sugar pinch of salt 1 ½ sticks plus 2 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter cut into pieces 1 large egg vanilla optional, to your liking

To make the tart dough: Preheat oven to 350F. In a mixer fitted with a paddle, combine flour, sugar and salt. Mix on low speed adding the butter in three parts until PHOTO: FLORA GORMAN

the mixture resembles a coarse meal. Add the egg and mix for 30 – 45 seconds more. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit 30 minutes. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough and cut to fit your tart pan, preferably with removable bottoms. Bake 10 – 12 minutes, flatten any puffed areas gently with a spatula, bake for an additional 3 – 5 minutes or until golden brown, set aside and cool.

To make the apple filling: In a heavy, large saucepan, combine sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon stick,

Frangipane cream tart filling:

pulp from vanilla bean and butter over medium-high heat until mixture

1/3 cup almond paste

turns golden brown, constantly stirring as you add apples, cook for

2 tablespoons cane sugar

2 – 4 minutes as apples puff up. (We estimate four apples are used in

1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar

the filling.) Remove mixture from heat. Remove cinnamon stick. Set

½ teaspoon grated fresh lemon zest

aside and let cool.

3 tablespoons softened unsalted butter 1 large egg, beaten

Presentation:

1 large egg yolk

Pipe frangipane cream evenly into par-baked tart shell. Layer the re-

1 ½ tablespoons unbleached organic all-purpose flour

maining apples on top of the frangipane in a pinwheel pattern, starting on the outside edge of the tart and working towards the center, nice

To make the frangipane cream filling:

and full, using as many of the apples as needed. Bake the tart for 25-35

In a medium bowl blend the almond paste, cane sugar, confectioners’

minutes until the frangipane filling is golden brown. Cool the tart on

sugar and fresh lemon zest. Add butter, sugar and continue to stir until

a wire rack for 10 minutes. The tart can be made up to two days in

light and creamy. Mix egg into paste then stir in flour.

advance, refrigerated and warmed prior serving.

Apple filling preparation:

Recipe Note: The apple was the favorite fruit of acclaimed pastry

3 cups cane sugar

chef, Richard Rivera, who sadly passed away in 2016. His wife, Debby,

1 3” stick cinnamon

co-founder and owner of their Barrington bakery, Ambrosia Patisserie,

juice of one fresh lemon

very kindly shared his recipe for the Apple Frangipane Tart. You can

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

enjoy this delectable creation seasonally at this beloved local spot. Try

3 tablespoons unsalted fresh butter

serving it with some homemade whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

3 Granny Smith apples, peeled cored and cut into 8-10 wedges 3 Jonathan apples, peeled, cored and cut into 8-10 wedges We like the combination of Granny Smith and Jonathan, but apple selection is personal preference.

8 | OUR GREEN PLATE

Kristina and her family live in the northwest suburbs of Chicago. In their spare time, they are avid gardeners of organic vegetables and native prairie plants, as well as home cooks. They also raise free-range Buff Orpington and Ameracauna hens for eggs, and daydream about raising goats and making cheese.

PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

Here we come a-wassailing Among the leaves so green, Here we come a-wandering So fair to be seen... â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Old English Carol

Wassail Traditionally, wassail contained alcohol, like mead. This recipe is non-alcoholic and hails from the kitchen of Rockford College. 2 cups sugar 4 cups water 12 whole cloves 4 cinnamon sticks 4 allspice berries 2 tablespoons of chopped fresh ginger 3 cups orange juice 2 cups freshly-squeezed lemon juice 2 quarts apple cider

Make the spice syrup by boiling the sugar and water for 10 minutes. Add spices and ginger; let syrup stand covered for one hour. Strain. Combine syrup, orange juice, lemon juice (or lemonade) and apple cider. Bring quickly to boiling point and then reduce heat to low. Serve. After wassail cools, it can be stored in the refrigerator and reheated later.

FALL 2017 | 9

IN THE YARD

Flying theX

COOP

How one family asserts food independence with backyard chickens. BY DALE I. JUFFERNBRUCH

Scratching out the Details Our family began our new venture by turning to a source for many would-be backyard chicken farmers — a hatchery, in our case, Murray McMurray Hatchery (MMH). As stated in its promotional material, MMH “distribute(s) millions of chicks each year to all 50 states.” Our backyard is in Barrington Hills, a village friendly to raising chickens. According to MMH, “more than 80 percent of the country’s most populated cities allow for backyard chicken farming in average size backyards.” As neighbors and village officials become more educated, 10 | OUR GREEN PLATE

the trend in municipal ordinances is toward allowance of backyard chickens. My family learned that backyard chicken farmers, like all people, must act neighborly. For us, that means keeping a tidy coop, formulating a setup that dissuades pests, and preventing our chickens from indulging in the neighbors’ gardens. With proper care, chickens don’t smell noxious or turn into a bother. Roosters have been known to cock-a-doodle-doo a bit too raucously for suburban coexistence. We were happy to learn that hens do not require a rooster to produce eggs.

Getting in the Game Thinking about getting your own feathery friends? Here are some basic guidelines. MMH recommends the following seasonal timeline. Fall is the time to decide what type of breed(s) and how many chickens you would like. Consider your space, the aesthetics of different chickens and your egg-color preference. (There is no difference in taste among white, brown or multicolored eggs.) Also, think about whether you would you prefer gentle birds, which could make good pets, or attentive chickens which free range well. Fall is also the season to order your chickens so they will be delivered in the spring and can grow healthy in the warming days. Scheuer gladly “[paid] extra for our chicks to be ‘sexed’ at the hatchery by a professional chick checker who can tell a girl from a boy, but this is not an exact science.” Often

PHOTO: CATHERINE CHIFFLOT NEALEY

ecking order,” “don’t count your chickens before they hatch,” “walking on eggshells”… We’ve all heard these expressions, but I never thought about their origins until I became “Mother Hen” and owned my own chickens. My family’s decision to raise chickens was born out of our desire to distance ourselves from the effects of factory farms and eat a healthy diet. Over the generations, due to time constraints and the temptation of convenience, consumers have relinquished much power of food choice to industrial agriculture. We needn’t be bound to this broken system. Thus, my family and I embraced the sentiment of Lauren Scheuer, author of Once Upon a Flock: Life with my Soulful Chickens — “[b]ackyard eggs would be my ticket out of the factory farm conundrum.”

Foraging free-range chickens

Barred Rock chicken at home in her coop

PHOTOS: DALE I. JUFFERNBRUCH (3), CATHERINE CHIFFLOT NEALEY (TOP RIGHT)

Barred Rock chickens

would-be chicken farmers order one or more extra chicks...just in case. Sexing also reduces the chance of a rooster's early cock-a-doodle-doo wake-up call. Winter is the time to act like an expectant parent: research your chickens’ needs. Buy a feeder, waterer and heat lamp for the chick brooder (a box-like structure to house your chicks for four to six weeks until their fuzz is replaced by feathers). Spring will mark the arrival of your chicks. Many are delivered by mail, as they can survive for up to 72 hours after hatching without food or water. So, pick up your babies from the post office as soon as you can! Once home, you will need to dip each chick’s beak in water to introduce the concept of drinking. Place a heating lamp, with a 250-watt red heat bulb, over your new brood. MMH advises that you handle your chicks often and tenderly in order to cultivate friendly chickens. Also, make sure you wash your hands after handling them. Summer is the time to acquaint your chickens with their new home — the coop — and to purchase adult chicken feed. A hen consumes one-fourth to one-half pound of chicken feed per day (maybe less if chickens have a free-range diet).

Styling the Roost The coop decision is an important one, as it protects your chickens from predators and the weather. Chickens generally lay more eggs when they have calm surroundings. As for location, consider a spot where your chickens can sun themselves on colder days and waddle into the shade on hot ones. In addition, take into account any trees or shrubs that could protect your hens from hawks, which tend to be a major threat in the Chicago Northwest area. You may want to also

include a chicken run, which is a structure often made of chicken wire that allows the birds to roam in the fresh air and sunlight protected from predators. Have some fun with the style of your coop. There are many options out there to give your family something to crow about. Ready-made structures can be delivered to your home, and partially constructed coops can be completed on site. If you’re handy, you can build one yourself. There are also, coops on wheels or rails. These are bottomless, so that you can move them around your yard and allow your chickens to eat fresh grass and bugs. Moveable coops work best with smaller flocks (six or fewer chickens) as the structure isn’t too heavy to move. You will need about two square feet per bird in the coop. Lorraine Johnson, in City Farmer: Adventures in Urban Food Growing recommends doubling that space if your chickens will not have free-range access. With insufficient space, chickens may feel tempted to peck each other. Excessive space may leave your flock too cold in the winter months, since chickens often live comfortably with just their body heat. Chickens need 15-16 hours of light each day to optimize egg laying. As the days shorten, you can use artificial light in the coop. To ensure a good night’s rest, place two to three inches of bedding (e.g., pine shavings) on the coop floor and in the nesting boxes. You can expect your chickens to begin laying eggs from age 18 to 24 weeks, depending on the breed.

More Feed for Thought Believe it or not, the “pecking order” is real. The pecking order imposes FALL 2017 | 11

IN THE YARD rules regarding such things as which chicken is first in line to eat and which one get first dibs on the roost. From an outsider’s perspective, it seems a bit unpleasant, but a pecking order encourages harmony among the flock. Very early on, your chicks will find their place in line. You’ll also want to watch out for unwanted visitors making their way into your chicken farm. We had a raccoon snatch one of our chickens. It was a little dramatic, for sure. Hawks are another potential predator. We’ve seen the food chain in action and have had to be a little clever to work to keep our chickens safe.

Reclamation Rewards It’s been quite an adventure having chickens, to say the least. Our family likes to think that we are slightly untethered from Big Agriculture’s tainted hold over our food supply. Raising chickens is our small contribution towards rejuvenating the disconnected establishment. Plus, our chickens are a part of our family. It’s been a pleasant discovery to watch how our children interact with them. My son, Henry, has been given the chore of helping me keep the coop and yard clean. He loves helping out, and especially having fresh eggs. My son, William, is intrigued by their psyche. He likes to see how the chickens will react to different things, such as the tunes he strums out on his ukulele. Whereas, my daughter, Emma, doesn’t have as much use for them. She says that they chase her. I do a lot of baking and cooking so it’s nice to draw from my own supply of fresh eggs, and I agree with Johnson when she says, “these are the best damned eggs I’ve ever had.” Each of us doing a little to improve our health and our local community is that metaphorical drop in a lake with its concentric circles reaching ever distant waters: small deeds lead to significant influence! Dale I. Juffernbruch raises Barred Rock chickens. For information and “support,” she belongs to the Chicks Club, a loosely organized group of local chicken enthusiasts.

S E A S ON AL R E CIP E S

Luscious Eggnog RECIPE FROM DALE I. JUFFERNBRUCH Serves 12-16 6 large eggs, plus 2 yolks 9 tablespoons sugar ¼ teaspoon sea salt 4 cups whole milk ½ cup brandy (optional) 1 tablespoon vanilla extract ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, plus extra to sprinkle when serving ¼ cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks (or, ½ cup, if using brandy)

12 | OUR GREEN PLATE

Before heating, whisk eggs, yolks, sugar and salt in heavy saucepan. Stir in milk, a little at a time, mixing well. Heat slowly over very low flame, stirring constantly, until mixture registers 160°F on an instant read thermometer, thickens and coats the back of a spoon, 25-55 minutes. Pour mixture through sieve into bowl; stir in brandy (if using), vanilla and nutmeg. Cover bowl and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 3 hours and up to 3 days. Just before serving, whip cream to soft peaks and gently fold into chilled mixture until incorporated. Sprinkle some nutmeg onto each serving of eggnog.

Get Your Eggs Here! Here are some of the suburban villages which allow backyard chickens in some manner: Elgin, West Dundee, Wauconda, Evanston, Grayslake, Long Grove, St. Charles, Naperville, Batavia, Oak Park, Western Springs. If backyard chickens are not allowed in your community, take a moment to talk to your village officials. Perhaps you can win them over with a dozen fresh eggs. Meanwhile, here’s a few retail places and farms that sell fresh eggs. Check with the farms listed to see if they distribute near you.

PHOTO: BRIAN DONAHUE

YOUR LOCAL EGGS: UpCountry Farm, Dundee; The Uncommon Palate, East Dundee; All Grass Farms, Dundee; Crystal Lake Health Foods, Crystal Lake; All Ways Healthy, Lake Zurich; Bob’s Fresh & Local, Elmhurst; Fox Trot Organic Farm, St. Charles; Heritage Prairie Farm, Elburn; Prairie Wind Family Farm, Grayslake; Radical Root Farm, Libertyville; Three Plaid Farmers, Winfield; Farm-Land, Wauconda; Milk & Honey Farmstead, Wauconda.

How many eggs a day does a chicken lay?

To wash or not to wash?

A chicken’s egg production is driven primarily by day length (light). Thus, natural egg production is much higher in the spring and summer months than in winter. Many keepers introduce artificial light to ensure a steady egg supply. After that, production varies by breed, age, and environment (stress). A rule of thumb, slightly less than a one a day, i.e., 6 hens, 4-5 eggs.

When laying an egg, the hen adds a protective coating called a bloom. The bloom effectively seals and prevents bacteria from getting in the pores—all to make the egg last longer. Unwashed eggs can go at least two weeks unrefrigerated (and many say longer), and three months if refrigerated. Eggs from commercial producers are washed immediately, greatly shortening their shelf life.

FALL 2017 | 13

The Craft is Back Local artisans brew world-class beer.

A welcome reminder posted at Flesk Brewing, Barrington 14 | OUR GREEN PLATE

*Everything in moderation, friends.

BY TRACIE BEDELL

ake a drive up (or down) Western Avenue, which runs the entire length of Chicago, and you will see signs outside bars, grocery stores, and bodegas advertising “package goods,” “beer on tap,” “zimne piwo,” “cerveza fria,” and “cold beer.” The language varies with the neighborhood, but the message is the same: “get your beer here.” Since its earliest days, Chicago has been a drinking town. Way back in 1833, folks gathered at the Sauganash Tavern—at the southeast corner of what now is Lake Street and Wacker Drive—to sign the articles of incorporation and toast a new town. That same year, German immigrants William Haas and Konrad Sulzer traveled west from New York and started making their traditionally brewed old-world style ale to wet the whistles of a growing and increasingly thirsty population. With that, Chicago’s beer industry was born. As Chicago’s neighborhoods grew and flourished, so did its breweries. During its heyday in the 1880s and 1890s, Chicago boasted more than 60 local breweries. Without an organized, easy way to store and distribute beer, the majority of a brewery’s product stayed in the neighborhood and was consumed at local saloons and taverns near the brewery. That is, until Congress passed the 18th Amendment and ushered in prohibition, which hit Chicago breweries hard. The number of local brewers began to decline slowly from 1920 until 1978, when the Peter Hand Brewery sounded its death rattle and closed its doors. With no truly local products available during the decade that followed, area drinkers subsisted on mass-market offerings from producers in places like Milwaukee and St. Louis. I remember the beer drinkers in my family being stoked when an uncle returned from a camping trip to Colorado with a pop-up camper filled with exotic Coors, unavailable east of the Rockies. It was like winning the lottery.

PHOTO (OPPOSITE): CATHERINE CHIFFLOT NEALEY

The Rise of Craft Brewing Chicago beer drinkers owe a great debt to crappy weather in Dallas. While waiting out a thunderstorm-related flight delay, John Hall was looking through a magazine and came across an article that got him thinking about beer. Specifically, about brewing beer in Chicago. It made sense, given the area’s access to Lake Michigan and a large population clamoring for something different to drink. After returning to the city, he gave up his day job and, in 1988, started up the Goose Island Beer Company, Chicago’s first modern craft brewery. We have come a long way in the nearly 30 years since Goose Island first opened its doors. As of July 2017, Chicago-based online beer journal TheHopReview.com listed 184 craft breweries operating in the greater metro region, with 70 in the city and 114 in the suburbs. With new breweries opening every couple of months, Chicagoans have a dizzying array of choices to satisfy their cravings for craft suds. Additionally, for those of you interested in doing the beer crafting (and not just the beer quaffing), we have the Siebel Institute. Internationally recognized, it has been around as long as folks have been brewing in Chicago. Each year, the Institute welcomes homebrewers, craft brewers, and big beer manufacturers to study online or in-person at the Kendall College facility. John Hannafan, Siebel Institute’s Interim President and Director of Education is encouraged by what he sees as a “rebirth” of beer:

Traditional styles have been, or are being, rediscovered—some reinvented or new styles created...Beer is no longer just “fizzy pale international lager”; people around the globe are more open now to what beer can or could be, and that is what creates the excitement. There are some successes obviously, and some misses as well; it’s all part of the adventure. I, for one, am up for the adventure.

The Benefits of Craft Beer Let me count the ways. It’s hard to believe that a generation ago our beer universe was largely defined by Clydesdales, the Rocky Mountains, and the folks whose flagship beer is Lite. The mass production brewers have brought us colorful Super Bowl commercials and easily accessible brew. But seriously, as a beer drinker, craft beer is so much better. Here’s just a few of the benefits, but I could go on.

Better Flavor I am not a beer snob, and have enjoyed my fair share of mass-market brews, including “The Champagne of Beers.” However, there is something to be said about moving out of one’s comfort zone and enjoying a beverage whose flavor challenges the palate, whether that comes from coffee, chocolate, fruit, or spices. And then there is the freshness factor. Thirty years ago, one had to visit Europe to truly enjoy great beer. Today, breweries can offer fresh brewed beer worthy of the finest German, Belgian and English traditions.

Experimentation In the search for different flavors, brewers have rewritten the rules on experimenting. Like Hanafan notes above, “There are some successes obviously, and some misses as well.” The best part is that you get to do some experimenting yourself. Worried about where to start? Ask your bartender for suggestions. Let him or her know what you enjoy and what you do not care for. Dollars to donuts, you will find something you like.

Put a Face to Your Brew Back in the early days of brewing, the person pouring your beer was the same person making your beer. When you visit a craft brewery, taproom, or brewpub, you more than likely will have the opportunity to chat up the people who had a hand in creating the beers you will be enjoying. And that is a good thing. After all, do you really enjoy buying beer from a stranger? Brewers enjoy talking about their products and sharing their passion with customers. And customers enjoy talking to other customers about their own experience and sharing acquired beer insights and opinions.

A Beer for Every Season I am not normally going to drink a stout in the summer because l do not relish the feeling of just having consumed an entire loaf of bread when it is 97 degrees and humid. I like to save that for the winter, when I’m in hibernation mode. Fortunately, craft brewers have a variety of seasonal beers that pair nicely with whatever is happening outside and new releases are offered regularly. FALL 2017 | 15

Support Local Businesses If you are trying to eat local, why not drink local as well? We all want to grow our local economies by supporting our friends and neighbors. Plus, how great would it be to have a brewery within walking distance of your house? Organizations like the Illinois Craft Brewers Guild (IllinoisBeer.org)—formed in 1997 to “promote the development and expansion of the craft beer industry in Illinois”—continue to work on legislation to allow brewers the opportunity to grow. Recently, the industry scored a significant victory when the Illinois General Assembly amended the Liquor Control Act to allow craft brewers to leverage social media outlets to promote their products, giving smaller operations an inexpensive method to spread news about their brews. There’s never been a better time to belly up to the bar and support your local craft brewers by visiting their breweries, brewpubs, and taprooms. Enjoy conducting your own field research while supporting your local brewers and keeping the beer flowing! Tracie Bedell is a Chicago-based freelance writer and admirer of the brewing arts and Chicago history. She does not claim to be an expert in either, but welcomes the lifelong challenge of field research.

Sampling with a beer flight at Roaring Table’s opening night.

Find Your (Right) Place BY ARMEN KHOLAMIAN

aprooms, brewpubs, brew fests, gastropubs and the local tavern are all part of the variety of ways you can enjoy a cold one in the Chicago area. Technical and legal definitions exist for each brewing category, but that doesn’t tell you what they’re really like. Each has their own vibe that fits the mood you’re in and the crew you’re running with. There’s no set rules and plenty of cross pollination among these; you just kind of know when you’re in the right place at that moment. Because of my talent for finding myself in the right place too often, I have been tasked with sharing my thoughts on each of them. Dutifully researched, here’s what I like about each.

Taproom

A growler from GermanSteins.com

Taprooms are really about the beer. A taproom can be connected to a brewery, with tanks visible, or just a place that serves a variety of 16 | OUR GREEN PLATE

beers. They don’t serve food but allow you to bring in your own or order from readily available take out menus. The food gets delivered to your table, in some cases faster than at some restaurants. Many will host events where food trucks or other food is brought in and you may get some live music. Taprooms generally have a laid back atmosphere where you can relax and try something new. In fact some even allow dogs. What could be better than having beers with your friends and your dog! The bartenders tend to be knowledgeable and are happy to tell you about what they are pouring that day. If the beer is brewed on site, the brewer is typically accessible and willing to talk recipes, styles, and experiments.

Brewpub A brewpub is exactly what it sounds like, a restaurant that brews its own beer. The beer is the star of the show at these establishments. You notice that the proprietors put almost as much into the unique artwork on their cans and bottles as they do into their beer. The menus

PHOTOS: (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) DAN GOLDBERG PHOTOGRAPHY, CATHERINE CHIFFLOT NEALEY, PAM MEITZLER

Our local growler clarifies the many ways to experience your beer.

The beer line-up at Flesk Brewing

and signage will have detailed descriptions of each selection with something for every taste. The food tends to be traditional fare. Some of the more established brewpubs have their beers sold in local liquor stores or even other bars. Families are welcome and you are just as likely to see Mom, Dad and the kids eating after junior’s game as a group of friends out for dinner before a night on the town.

A neighborly crowd enjoying fresh brews at Crystal Lake Brewing

may even find a cool pair of wooden sunglasses, whose purchase may or may not have been influenced by the samples you tried. A wide and varied choice of beer is offered at fests with some having themes based on type of beer or even seasonality. They can be crowded and loud, but it’s the sound of a good time. You’ll get a tasting glass with the price of admission and a limit on how many tastes you can have, but if you enjoy your beer it’s probably best to have a ride home.

PHOTO: CATHERINE CHIFFLOT NEALEY

Gastropub

Local Tavern At a gastropub the food shares equal billing with the beer. They don’t brew their own beer but The local tavern, corner tap, working man’s bar; you can find almost anything you might want. whatever you call it, these establishments have a The food will show imagination, with twist on patina all their own. The brass rail you rest your traditional bar food and unique combinations. foot on, the well-worn stool, the warm wood The beer selection may well surpass the menu in under your elbow and a cold beer in your hand, complexity but the best gastropubs have servers a little piece of heaven. You’ll usually find a wise who know their way around the beer list, suggestcracking bartender behind the bar and a few ing pairings with the food or a giving a taste of regulars in front of it. There is always a running beer they think you may like. Many gastropubs commentary by the patrons that’s kind of like a Local growler Armen Kholamian will have a trendy feel with couples out for a rambling street car you can hop on and off. You nice meal. The beer will be cutting edge as well. leave a conversation one day, come back another, With a healthy dose of local and new microbrews, the selection might and jump back into the same conversation with the same people. extend beyond local to regional and coastal offerings. Everyone is welcome, but the annoying are not tolerated. The beer is reasonably priced and domestic. The food is simple, no red wine reductions, deconstructed sandwiches or chipotle garlic aioli; a burger Fest or a club sandwich is what you’ll find there. I enjoy all the places you A purely social event designed around beer, brew fests are found ev- can get a beer but it should be obvious where I usually end up. erywhere, year-round. Usually manned by local breweries and a few regional brewers, brew fests give you a chance to try a lot of different Armen lives with his family in Barrington Hills. He runs his business, beers with a bunch of your friends. Live music and giveaways are par Junk King, by day and continues his craft beer research by night. He is for the course and food is available for purchase from vendors. You enjoying his new wooden glasses. FALL 2017 | 17

Hops

The bitter counterbalance to malt

Grain

The foundation, malted, usually from barley

Yeast

The catalyst, defines style, lager or ale

Water

The most local ingredient, accounts for up to 95 percent of beer

18 | OUR GREEN PLATE

A Noob’s Beer Primer

I performed substantial, but not necessarily scientific, research to develop a primer for those of you without a beer whisperer.

BY TRACIE E. BEDELL

Major Beer Styles

Beer Characteristics

Beer is made from four ingredients: water, malt (made from barley), hops, and yeast. The similarities end there. By tweaking any of those four and adding different components like spices, fruit, and so forth, brewers have created a staggering variety of beverages. Officially, the Brewers Association recognizes 150 different beer styles, but it is important to start at the beginning: ale and lager.

When you are sampling a beer, it is important to make note of the following basic characteristics. At craftbeer.com, you can find a PDF tasting sheet for taking notes.

Ale Ale is a “top fermented” beverage, meaning the yeast ferments at the top of the tank and at a higher temperature than yeast used in lagers. The fermentation period is generally short, around seven to eight days (but time can vary, of course). Common types of ale include: • Extra special bitter • Oatmeal stout • Blonde ale • India pale ale • Kölsch • Hefeweizen • Lambic • Specialty saison

Lager

PHOTO: CATHERINE CHIFFLOT NEALEY

Lager is a “bottom fermented” beverage which means, you guessed it, the yeast ferments at the bottom of the tank at a lower temperature and for a longer period of time. Common types of lager include: • Pilsner • Oktoberfest • Doppelbock • Dark lager • Amber light lager • Australasian, Latin American, or tropical-style light lager

Appearance/Color What does the beer look like? Is it light, dark, clear, cloudy? Appearance is everything, and serving beer in a substandard glass (or plastic cup) is going to influence what you taste.

Aroma What does it smell like? Fruit? Flowers? Skunk? Take a sniff before you taste it, just to see what aromas you can detect.

Flavor After giving it the once-over and a sniff, go ahead and taste it. Brian Meyer of the Craft Beer Academy (CraftBeerAcademy.com) suggests you take an initial sip, then: “...Take a second drink, swish it around in your mouth, and exhale while the beer is still in your mouth.” One of the easily noticeable flavor characteristics is “bitterness,” which brewers express in “international bitterness units,” or IBUs. An American light lager can clock in between eight and 12 IBUs, stout at 30-50, India pale ale (IPA) at 60-80, and double or imperial IPA at 80-100. What is up for debate is the threshold of humans’ ability to detect IBUs, with numbers between 90-120 IBUs bandied about as a limit. Anything higher might be a marketing gimmick, but if you want to judge for yourself, check out Flying Monkey Craft Brewery’s Alpha Fornication, number one on BeerTutor.com’s list of the “100 Bitterest Beers” at 2,500 IBUs.

Alcohol Content Most brewers list the amount of alcohol in their brews as “alcohol by volume” or ABV. A higher ABV may result in the beer tasting or smelling of alcohol which, depending on your own preferences, may be a good or bad thing. FALL 2017 | 19

PHOTO: CATHERINE CHIFFLOT NEALEY

A variety of beer styles from Flesk Brewing

R E AD Y TO LE AR N M OR E ?

Start at Your Local Liquor Store If you are looking to learn more about craft beer, a good place to start is your favorite liquor store. You should not be afraid to ask questions of the staff; most folks are more than happy to talk about their own personal favorites and make recommendations based on your preferences.

Take an Introductory Course Consider signing up for an introductory beer course, either online or in-person. I recently completed the “Beer 101” online course from CraftBeer.com. It costs $20, takes about an hour to go through, and provides a well-rounded introduction to the brewing process and beer styles. Pass the quiz at the end of the course and you will receive a certificate to show you know just enough to be dangerous.

Become a Cicerone As a sommelier is to wine, so a cicerone is to beer. That is, a cicerone is a certified beer expert, someone with “proven experience in selecting, acquiring and serving today’s wide range of beers.” Learn more at Cicerone.org.

Delivery If craft beer is to be experienced with all senses, there’s a good argument for varying glass styles. They each have their own characteristics. Here are a few of them and their suggested benefits. 20 | OUR GREEN PLATE

Mug: Common in the US and Europe, sometimes beer mugs have dimples throughout the glass to help the drinker appreciate the overall color and clarity of the beer. Pilsner: This glass is tall, footed, and tapered out from the bottom. Displays the beer’s clarity while tapered shape supports head. Designed for lighter beers such as pilsners. Pint: There are varying styles of pint glasses, but they are all similar. Its shape is a slight taper outward from bottom. This is probably the most common type of glass. Snifter: Stemmed, wide-bowled, and tapered in at the top, the snifter is designed for maximum concentration of volatile organic compounds—that is, aroma. It is widely used for cognac and brandy Stange: Stange is the German word for rod and that’s what it looks like. This glassware is typically reserved for delicate beers, such as German Kölsch, to help intensify the flavors and aromas. Tulip: Its shape is a bulb that tapers in before flaring out. It allows for the concentration of aroma. The slight flare at the top helps support a foamy head at the top. Weizen: This glass is tall, slender at the bottom, and bowled out a bit at the top. Its distinctive curvature accommodates a massive, frothy head to better appreciate wheat beers. Growler: An American original, the growler is a jug meant to transport beer from the brewery the drinker’s home. Many brewers and taprooms sell them or you can buy your own. They can be filled and sealed at the brewer.

TRACIE BEDELL is a Chicago-based freelance writer and admirer of the brewing arts and Chicago history. She does not claim to be an expert in either, but welcomes the lifelong challenge of field research.

THE LOCAL LIST

Breweries, Taprooms, Brewpubs & Gastropubs

or the uninitiated, the sheer number of different types of beers can be daunting, which is why we’ve suggested you stop into some of your local breweries to talk to the bartenders (and the brewmasters themselves) to get suggestions. We’ve extended into Chicago, and outward towards Rockford and Galena in order to include some of our most notable and historic taphouses. Each location has an icon denoting whether it’s a brewery (where beer is made), a taproom (where that same beer is served), a brewpub (where they brew beer and serve food), or a gastropub (where they serve upscale food, and focus on craft beer). If you’d like to learn more, visit illinoisbeer.org. The green bolded listings are OGP advertisers. Cheers to them.

Algonquin

Buffalo Grove

Scorched Earth Brewing 203 Berg St 224-209-8472 scorchedearthbrewing.com Recently awarded a silver medal for Barrel #23 at this year’s L.A. International Beer Competition, brewer Mike Dallas brews a wide variety beer, and likes his red wine barrels to focus on sour beers.

County Line Tavern 800 W Lake Cook Rd 847-520-7447 countylinetavern.com

Aurora

Cary

Hopvine Brewing Company 4030 Fox Valley Center Dr 630-229-6030 hopvinebrewingcompany.org

Cary Ale House 208 W Main St 847-639-7244 caryalehousebrewing.com

Half Acre Beer Company 4257 N Lincoln Ave 773-248-4038 halfacrebeer.com

Barrington

Chicago

Flesk Brewing 200 Applebee St, Ste E 224-655-7291 fleskbrewing.com Named after an Irish castle, the brothers Will, James and Sean O’Brien run a laid back taproom that’s friendly to dogs.

Alarmist Brewing 4055 W Peterson Ave 773-681-0877 alarmistbrewing.com

Marz Community Brewing Co. 3630 S Iron St marzbrewing.com

Bedford Park 5 Rabbit Cervecería 6398 W 74th St 312-895-9591 5rabbitbrewery.com 5 Rabbit is the first US-based Latin American-inspired brewery.

Prairie Krafts Brewing Company 1310 Busch Pwky 224-434-2189 prairiekrafts.com

Begyle Brewing Company 1800 W Cuyler 773-661-6963 begylebrewing.com Burnt City Brewing 2747 N Lincoln Ave 773-295-1270 burntcitybrewing.com

Empirical Brewery 1801 W Foster Ave 773-654-3104 empiricalbrewery.com Goose Island Taproom 1800 W Fulton Street gooseisland.com Fulton Street taproom is open. The Clybourn street brewpub is undergoing renovations, and is planned to reopen fall 2017.

Off Color Brewing 3925 W Dickens Ave offcolorbrewing.com Pipeworks Brewing 3912 W Mclean Ave pdubs.net Revolution Brewing 200 Prairie St 773-227-2739 revbrew.com

WHILE YOU’RE OUT, SNAP A PHOTO AND TAG US! #OURGREENPLATE @ourgreenplate

@ourgreenplate_il

The Bristol 2152 N Damen Ave 773-862-5555 thebristolchicago.com

Crystal Lake Crystal Lake Brewing 150 N Main St 779-220-9288 crystallakebrew.com As a relative newcomer, CLB has quickly carved a spot in the burgeoning Crystal Lake food and drink scene. Just 20 months after CLB started brewing, their "Beach Blonde" was awarded a medal in the “Muenchner-Style Helles” category at the prestigious World Beer Cup, a worldwide competition held once every two years. Taking home the bronze medal, CLB's Beach Blonde was the best-judged Hellesstyle beer in America and third best in the world. An auspicious entry into the brewing world, they continue to brew some of the best beer in the region. Jaster's Raw Bar and Bistro 414 W Virginia St 815-526-3124 jastersbar.com Duke’s Alehouse & Kitchen 110 N Main St 815-356-9980 thedukeabides.com Outstanding beer selection with many local craft beers represented. Their variety on tap changes frequently and even more so for the bottled beers. You can taste any styles of beer and be wellserved. And, at Duke’s you don’t have to choose between great beer or great food. The food is outstanding and authentically sourced.

FALL 2017 | 21

Elk Grove Village

Galena

Gurnee

Mikerphone 121 Garlisch Dr mikerphonebrewing.com

Galena Brewing Company 227 N Main St 815-776 9917 galenabrewery.com

Only Child Brewing 1350 Tri State Pkwy, Ste 124 224-656-5241 onlychildbrewing.com

Geneva

Itasca

Penrose Brewing 509 Stevens St 630-232-2115 penrosebrewing.com

The Church Street Brewing Company 1480 Industrial Dr, Ste C 630-438-5725 churchstreetbrew.com

Evanston Peckish Pig 623 Howard St 847-491-6778 thepeckishpig.com Sketchbook Brewing Co. 821 Chicago Ave 847-859-9051 sketchbookbrewing.com Smylie Brothers Brewing Company 1615 Oak Ave 224-999-7320 smyliebros.com

Forest Park Exit Strategy Brewing 7700 Madison St 708-689-8771 exitstrategybrewing.com

Stockholm's Brewpub 306 W State St 630-208-7070 stockholmsbrewpub.com

Glenview Ten Ninety Brewing Co. 1025 N Waukegan Rd 224-432-5472 ten-ninety.com

Grayslake Light the Lamp Brewery 10 N Lake St 847-752-8489 lightthelampbrewery.com

Roaring Table

Lake Barrington Wild Onion Brewery 22221 N Pepper Rd 847-381-7308 onionbrewery.com A classic brewpub, Mike Kainz started brewing their Paddy Pale Ale in 1997 and has been brewing great beer ever since. They recently opened the Wild Onion Tied House in Oak Park.

Zin GastroPub 583 North Rand Rd 847-946-4167 zingastropub.com

Lemont Pollyanna Brewing Company 431 Talcott Ave 630-914-5834 pollyannabrewing.com

Lake Bluff

Libertyville

Lake Bluff Brewing Co. 16 E Scranton Ave 224-544-5179 lbbrew.com

Mickey Finn's Beer 345 N Milwaukee Ave 847-362-6688 mickeyfinnsbrewery.com Lake County’s first brewpub.

Lake in the Hills

Lincolnshire

Woods Creek Tavern 251 N Randall Rd 224-256-2063 woodscreektavern.com

Half Day Brewing 200 Village Green 847-821-6933 halfdaybrewing.com

Lake Zurich

Lombard

Consume 569 W Route 22 847-550-4801 consumelz.com Roaring Table 739 W Route 22 224-662-4562 roaringtable.com The Roaring Table boasts one of Chicago’s few foeders (pronounced FOOD-er). A very large wide wooden vat, the foeder is used in winemaking and is also used to age sour beers. The foeder alone is worth the visit, but the beer is great too. A home brew background keeps brewer Lane Fearing providing a wide variety of beer styles and flavors. The elegant and cozy taproom with its warm fireplace makes this newly opened brewery in Lake Zurich a beer drinker’s destination.

22 | OUR GREEN PLATE

PHOTO: CATHERINE CHIFFLOT NEALEY

THE LOCAL LIST

KEY

Brewery

Noon Whistle Brewing Company 800 East Roosevelt Rd, Ste C 630-376-6895 www.noonwhistlebrewing.com

Long Grove Buffalo Creek Brewing 360 Historical Ln 847-821-6140 buffalocreekbrewing.com

Lyons BuckleDown Brewing 8700 W 47th St buckledownbrewing.com

Machesney Park Pig Minds Brewing 4080 Steele Dr 779-423-2147 pigmindsbrewing.com

Taproom

Brewpub

Gastropub

McHenry

Rockford

South Barrington

Wauconda

Chain O' Lakes Brewing Company 3425 W Pearl St 815-331-8345 chainolakesbrewing.com

Carlyle Brewing 215 East State St 815-963-2739 carlylebrewing.com

The Lucky Monk 105 Hollywood Blvd 847-898 0500 theluckymonk.com

Side Lot Brewery 110 Slocum Lake Rd 847-865-0281 sidelotbrewing.com

Prairie Street Brewing Co. 200 Prairie St 815-277-9427 psbrewingco.com

Mundelein Bosacki's Home Brew 610 E Hawley St 224-778- 5400 bosackishomebrew.com

Schaumburg

Tighthead Brewing Company 161 N Archer Ave 847-970-9174 tightheadbrewing.com Brewery, Taproom Tighthead Brewing owes its name to the sport of rugby and the position played by owner and brewer Bruce Dir.

Naperville

Kuma's Corner 1570 E Golf Rd 847-240-1200 kumascorner.com Kuma’s Corner is proud to support a new charity each month, and they source local and homegrown whenever possible. In addition to outstanding burgers, their Mac and Cheese is an experience, and the beer selection rotates regularly.

St. Charles The Finery and Blacksmith Bar 305 W Main St 630-940-2380 thefineryrestaurant.com The Office 201 E Main St 630-549-0287

Warrenville Two Brothers Brewery Tap House 30W315 Calumet Ave 630-393–2337 twobrothersbrewing.com

Small Town Brewery 1000 N Rand Rd, #204 smalltownbrewery.com

Waukegan ZümBier 3232 W Monroe Ave 847-420-7313 zumbier.com

West Dundee Emmett's Brewing Co. 128 W Main St 847-428-4500 emmettsbrewingco.com

Woodridge Skeleton Key Brewery 8102 Lemont Rd 630-395-9033 skeletonkeybrewery.com

Solemn Oath Brewery 1661 Quincy Ave, #179 solemnoathbrewery.com

Roaring Table invites you to come taste craft beer brewed with passion and served in our cozy little taproom. We’ll feature an ever-changing menu of handmade beers along with a number guest taps, snacks, and carefully curated wines. Award-winning CLB Brewmaster Ryan Clooney

DON’T TRY US BECAUSE W E ’ R E B R E W E D LO C A L LY.

Or because we source local ingredients for a locally sustainable economy. Instead, try us because we’re committed to brewing world-class beer. Beer created with the attention to quality and taste reminiscent of a simpler time when craftsmanship mattered. But...did we mention we’re local?

easy to drink. hard to put down.

CrystalLakeBrew.com

739 W ROUTE 22 LAKE ZURICH

FALL 2017 | 23

g Gather your FriendsX

PREPARE A FEAST Chefs and their recipes inspire a home cook’s harvest dinner.

s we head into the cooler months, I say goodbye to the warm carefree days of summer. The glorious summer vacation road trips are now distant memories. Fall’s grand reconvening is well underway and I begrudgingly get in line as schedules become the rule of the day. Everyone I know is in a similar situation to mine. They seem more engaged and content with the transition than I do. I see social media buzzing as friends happily catch up with one another, sharing summer adventures and fall plans. I admit my kids were excited to see their classmates and a return to a schedule. Each day, as I see more options for fun harvest festivals and fall food events, it occurs to me that I’ve been viewing fall all wrong. Fall is not to be measured by summer: its flexibility, its grand vacations. Fall is about reconnecting, it is about gathering. Why not schedule my own gathering? I love to cook, perhaps a dinner...a harvest dinner! I threw out the harvest dinner idea to a few friends who immediately jumped at the opportunity to get together, share amazing food and have great conversation. I set a date in mid-October. This is my chance to learn to love a season for more than colored leaves. This is what is supposed to happen in fall!

The Plan: A Harvest Themed Dinner for 10 I know my way around the kitchen, but I am far more comfortable throwing together a salad and firing up the grill for a quick summer dinner. This is a new season for me. After thumbing through my usual list of recipe ideas, I realize I could use some seasonal inspiration. Finally I decide, if I’m going to do this, maybe I could ask the experts. Who knows harvest dinners better than farm-to-table chefs? Maybe they will each be gracious enough to share a harvest style recipe. So off I go to Farmhouse on North in Barrington. Meghan McGinty, the owner and her partner and chef, Mike Vaccarello agree to 24 | OUR GREEN PLATE

sit down and talk to me. I walk into one of the warmest spaces I have ever been. Beautiful art done by local artists are showcased on the walls. I am greeted warmly by Meghan and Mike. We ascend to the Hayloft on the second floor, an homage to her family’s barn where the bar is located, and sit down for a chat. We discuss the beautiful restaurant and how locality in their food is so important. Mike humbly tells me how the food is the star and simplicity is best by letting a cut of meat stand on its own with a little seasoning. We decide on taking a chance and he suggests I make Apple Glazed Duck Breast with Sweet Potato Hash and Brussels Sprouts. They source their duck from Slagel Farms. Duck is a departure for me, and Mike agrees it is for most people, but prepared correctly, it is a game changer. He has more faith in me than I do, but I am willing to give it a try. I say goodbye with immense gratitude and certainly have Farmhouse on North on my short list of places to eat in the very near future. Next on the list is 1776 Restaurant in Crystal Lake. The new owner, Rhienna McClain Trevino, previously spoke to the publisher of Our Green Plate, Pam Meitzler. During that conversation Rhienna discussed her passion for local sourcing and farm-to-table food. She also has children with food allergies which she translates with care to the menu at 1776. I have a quick opportunity to talk to their incredibly busy executive chef, Santiago Saurez. He agrees to give me a recipe for my endeavor, so I stop by 1776 during a slow time to talk with him. Santiago has been at 1776 for 25 years. In the brief moment I talked to him before he was whisked away to take a phone call from a local farm about some delicious food for the menu, he did tell me that they work with many local farms, as well as some farmers markets in Madison to have access to other excellent farmers a further reach away. Erik Nordstrom, the Wine and Spirits Director at 1776 Restaurant graciously edited the recipe Santiago presented and emailed the recipe for a Jambalaya. He noted that they get proteins locally as well, like chicken from R Family Farm in Poplar Grove, which is also a very

PHOTOGRAPH BY ROBIN LIETZ / PHOTOAPPETITE.COM, PHOTO STYLING: KARLA SPIES

BY HALLIE WRIGHT

Apple Glazed Duck Breast with Sweet Potato Hash and Brussels Sprouts, recipe on page 29. FALL 2017 | 25

child friendly place to visit. He mentioned his boys had a great time there! Everyone at 1776 Restaurant was immensely helpful and I have another dinner destination to visit soon. Finally, I had the amazing opportunity to talk with the great people at Bleuroot in West Dundee. Their motto is “Good Food for the Soul” and after meeting with Chefs Maria Terry and Peter Capadona, I understand why. The love they have for creating good food is intoxicating. The two were handpicked for the job and finally swayed to join the new restaurant Bleuroot and design and create a menu, no small feat. They have been working together for over a decade and their shared experience puts them into multi-decades preparing food with love. Designing a menu and working on creating new local-emphasized dishes has the Chefs on their toes, but in a good way! I spent an afternoon talking with the two and their excitement for Bleuroot was obvious. Bleuroot opened in the summer of 2017 and the reception has been great. They locally source their meats and produce. LUREC Farm, a part of Loyola University is one of the places they get much of their produce. After telling Chef Maria and Chef Peter about my undertaking of the harvest dinner idea, I could almost literally see the wheels turning with ideas. We decided on the final dish for the harvest dinner with friends, the most important, the favorite…dessert. The chefs created a dessert just for me highlighting apples for the fall dish. Apple Gingerbread Cake with Cream is the recipe I received. I cannot wait to get my hands into the baking of this dessert. A sincere thanks to Chef Maria and Chef Peter over at Bleuroot. I have another must try for dining soon.

Now to get down to business and prepare. I decide to add some items to the chefs’ menu to round it out. I will start with a beautiful artisanal cheese board with some figs and grapes as guests arrive. The first course will be a salad greens with pears and pumpkin seeds dressed with a simple vinaigrette. Next up is Chef Santiago from 1776 Restaurant and his Jambalaya. The main course is the Apple Glazed Duck with Sweet Potato Hash and Brussels Sprouts from Chef Mike at Farmhouse on North. And finally, from Bleuroot and Chefs Maria and Peter, the dessert, Apple Gingerbread Cake with Cream. These recipes make it easier to embrace fall and get excited about the delicious food this season showcases. I am armed with a menu that I’m thrilled to share with my friends. I really want to thank Chefs Maria Terry and Peter Capadona, Executive Chef Santiago Suarez, and Chef Mike Vaccarello and Meghan McGinty. I have learned we are rich with local restaurant options that take care in finding locally sourced proteins and produce and are backed by brilliant and generous people. (But seriously, does anyone know of a good babysitter?)

Fall Menu: Artisanal Cheese Plate Harvest Salad with Pears and Pepitas Jambalaya Apple Glazed Duck Breast with Sweet Potato Hash and Brussels Sprouts Apple Gingerbread Cake with Cream

Harvest Salad with Pears and Pepitas 1 lb. baby spinach and spring mix blend 2 Bosc pears, seeded and thinly sliced 1 cup pepitas, roasted* 4 ounces goat cheese, crumbled Apple cider vinaigrette, recipe follows

*To roast pepitas, toss them in a little olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast for 13-15 minutes in a 325°F oven Add salad leaves to a large serving bowl. Top with sliced pears, roasted pepitas and crumbled goat cheese. Toss with a ½ cup vinaigrette and serve. APPLE CIDER VINAIGRETTE ¾ cup olive oil ¼ cup raw apple cider vinegar 1 garlic clove, minced 2 tablespoons raw honey 2 teaspoons dijon mustard 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon pepper

Combine ingredients in small bowl and whisk to combine.

26 | OUR GREEN PLATE

PHOTOS: (LEFT) BRIAN DONAHUE, (OPPOSITE): ROBIN LIETZ / PHOTOAPPETITE.COM, PHOTO STYLING: KARLA SPIES

SEA SO NA L REC IPES

“ The shared meal elevates eating from a mechanical process of fueling the body to a ritual of family and community, from the mere animal biology to an act of culture.” —Michael Pollan, In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto

Harvest Salad with Pears and Pepitas, recipe on page 26. FALL 2017 | 27

“No one who cooks, cooks alone. Even at her most solitary, a cook in the kitchen is surrounded by generations of cooks past, the advice and menus of cooks present and the wisdom of cookbook writers.” —Laurie Colwin, novelist and food writer

Jambalaya 5 chicken breasts, chopped in bite sized pieces

Preheat a large stock pot. Add 1 tablespoon vegetable oil. Add

20 shrimp, peeled and cleaned

chicken and sausage. Cook for 8 minutes. Add vegetables and salt and

4 lbs. Andouille sausage, chopped into bite sized pieces

pepper to taste. Mix in paprika, cayenne pepper, Cajun seasoning, and

2 whole green bell peppers, chopped

Tabasco. Stir in 4 cups of beef stock and 2 cups of water. Add shrimp to

2 red bell peppers, chopped

mixture and boil for 15 minutes while stirring occasionally.

2 yellow bell peppers, chopped 5 celery stalks, chopped 2 white onions, chopped 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 tablespoons paprika powder 1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning 2 drops Tabasco 4 cups beef stock 2 cups water ½ oz. vegetable oil salt and pepper to taste

28 | OUR GREEN PLATE

Serve with brown rice.

Apple Glazed Duck Breast with Sweet Potato Hash and Brussels Sprouts 6 duck breasts skin on* 6 sweet potatoes, peeled olive oil kosher salt garlic powder red onion, chopped red bell pepper, chopped 5 green onions 1 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved 6 strips thick cut applewood smoked bacon 4 Granny Smith apples (or any tart apples) 5 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons brown sugar

Duck Breast

1 cup apple cider 3 sprigs thyme 2 sprigs rosemary shallot, minced

Score skin on duck breast with a knife. Place the duck skin side down in a cast iron pan on medium heat to render the fat from the duck breast to get a nice crispy skin. While you are rendering the fat, in another sauté pan get ready to make your sweet potato hash. Finish cooking your duck in a hot sauté pan with 3 tablespoon of duck fat. Reserve 3 tablespoons of duck fat for Brussels sprouts. Pan sear duck skin side up. Duck is ideally served at medium rare to a temperature of 135F. Sweet Potato Hash Place peeled and diced sweet potatoes on a sheet pan and drizzle with salt and olive oil and bake at 375F for 12 minutes. While potatoes are roasting, chop 1 red onion, 1 red bell pepper, and 5 green onions. Place olive oil in your hot sauté pan. Add the roasted sweet potatoes, salt, pepper, garlic powder to taste. Finally add onions and peppers to pan until potatoes are hot and crispy. Sweet Potato Hash

PHOTOS: ROBIN LIETZ / PHOTOAPPETITE.COM, PHOTO STYLING: KARLA SPIES

Brussels Sprouts Cook bacon in sauté pan until crispy. Remove from pan and wipe clean. Add 3 tablespoons of the duck fat to pan and add Brussels sprouts,

Brussels Sprouts

salt, pepper and the chopped bacon. Sauté until Brussels are tender. Glazed Apples to top Duck Put chopped apples in a sauté pan. Add 5 tablespoons butter, and 3 tablespoons brown sugar, 1 cup of apple cider, 3 sprigs of time, 2 sprigs of rosemary, and 1 minced shallot to pan. Cook on medium until apples soften. * The Farmhouse Restaurant sources their duck from Slagel Farms. Other area farms offering pasture-raised Apple Glaze

ducks are Oak Hollow Acres and Burgin Farms.

FALL 2017 | 29

Apple Gingerbread Cake with Cream, recipe on page 31.

30 | OUR GREEN PLATE

Apple Gingerbread Cake with Cream

half of apples and toss to separate. Cook, tossing often, until apples are

3 tablespoons plus ½ cup unsalted butter, plus more for pan

cool enough to handle, then arrange over caramel in several overlap-

1 cup packed light brown sugar, divided

ping layers. Set pan aside.

1 lb. Pink Lady apples, unpeeled, thinly sliced, seeds removed, divided

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in same skillet over medium heat; add softened and almost translucent, about 4 minutes. Repeat process with another 1 tablespoon butter and remaining apples. Let apples sit until

Whisk flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg in a

2 cups all-purpose flour

large bowl to combine; set aside. Heat molasses, maple syrup, remain-

1 ½ teaspoons baking powder

ing ½ cup brown sugar, and remaining ½ cup butter in a heatproof bowl

1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt

set over a saucepan of barely simmering water, stirring constantly, until

1 ½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

butter is melted and mixture is smooth. Whisk in eggs and ginger. Stir

½ teaspoon ground cloves

baking soda into ¼ cup very hot water in a small bowl until dissolved,

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

then whisk into molasses mixture. Whisk molasses mixture into reserved

½ cup robust flavored dark molasses

dry ingredients and scrape batter over apples, spreading evenly. Evenly

½ cup pure maple syrup

drizzle ½ cup cream over batter.

2 large eggs, room temperature

Place cake on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and bake until

2 tablespoons finely grated peeled ginger

center is firm to the touch and a cake tester inserted into the center

1 ½ teaspoons baking soda

comes out clean. 35 to 45 minutes. Transfer pan to a wire rack and let

½ cup heavy cream, plus more for serving

cake cool in pan 15 minutes. Run a paring knife around the sides of cake to loosen, then remove the sides of pan and invert cake onto rack.

Preheat oven to 350F. Butter pan and line bottom with parchment

Carefully remove pan and peel away parchment (apples might stick, so

round. Butter parchment. Heat 1 tablespoon butter, ½ cup brown

work slowly). Let cool completely.

sugar and 2 tablespoons water in a large skillet over medium stirring

Slice cake into wedges and serve drizzled with more cream.

constantly, until butter is melted and sugar is dissolved. Cook, without stirring but swirling skillet often, until large bubbles that are slow to pop form, about 2 minutes. Pour caramel into prepared pan and tilt

Hallie lives with her husband and two children in Barrington. Creating healthy and nourishing food for her family and friends brings her joy.

pan to evenly coat bottom.

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FALL 2017 | 31

Living Fully,

Swainson House at Serosun Farms

32 | OUR GREEN PLATE

Stepping Lightly Local innovators share their ideas on sustainability. BY KELLY VILLASUSO

“Fall has arrived. Behold the changing leaves, and enjoy the crisp breeze. Let your eyes take in the bursts of color. Transformation is afoot and hope is in the air.” – Author Unknown

PHOTO: COURTESY OF SEROSUN FARMS

ike the unknown author above, many a person over time has waxed poetic about the changes that occur in the “fall of the year,” their focus on celebrating the colors of the trees and the abundance of the harvest. Others, however, have taken a more melancholic view of the changes brought forth during autumn, their focus on the imminent arrival of shorter, darker days and colder temperatures, particularly here in the Midwest. Many of us likely fall somewhere in between, pragmatically embracing the days between the September equinox and the December solstice to tackle household projects and remaining personal resolutions before the year ends. Regardless of one’s outlook, sometime this fall we will inevitably spend a moment acknowledging life’s circular nature and the role sustainability plays in keeping the circle connected. At Our Green Plate, in this season of change, we think it’s a natural time to consider our place in the circle and contemplate that which can move us more fully “into the loop” – into the loop of sustainable living (as opposed to into the Loop). We sought out innovators in our area who are helping individuals and communities more consciously change consumption and use of natural resources in the interest of cleaner living. In addition, we asked these experts to share smaller-scale suggestions each of us can adopt to bring more balance to our inputs and outputs in this loop we call living. So, whether you are ready to make a major move to the far west suburbs of Chicago to immerse yourself in a sustainable lifestyle or you are simply moved to plant more saplings on your current property, we hope you find inspiration from the changes offered by these local innovators and their commitment to broadening the circle of those living greener, cleaner, and more sustainably in the Chicagoland area.

FALL 2017 | 33

SEROSUN FARMS

Since the early 2000s, the brother-and-sister team of John DeWald and Jane Stickland have been a brain trust for far-western Kane County on the issue of farm preservation. DeWald and Stickland recognized the threat of development to area farms and worked closely with Kane county to put plans and new zoning classifications in place to preserve 75 percent of the area’s farmland. The dynamic duo, however, recognized some level of development was inevitable. So, to further ensure farmland preservation and to preserve agricultural practices and protect woodlands, they sought and gained approval for Serosun Farms a 400-acre luxury conservation community with a true working farm located in Hampshire, Illinois. According to DeWald, early developments throughout the country, including Prairie Crossing in Grayslake, Illinois, served as inspiration for what is now the “agrihood” of Serosun Farms. Taking notes from these master-planned communities on lessons learned, Serosun Farms has successfully balanced sustainable measures such as employing green home building practices that result in Home Energy Rater (HERS) Index Scores on the Farm of 50 or lower. They are providing

An installed smartflower TM unit seamlessly converting sunlight into electricity.

34 | OUR GREEN PLATE

onsite renewable energy sources, including solar and geothermal with pastoral environs and high-tech amenities, to create what DeWald calls a community “that just feels right.” Through Serosun Farms’ conscientious development efforts, including but not limited to a stringent focus on reducing chemical inputs, they have seen a significant increase in the number and types of species and animals on the property. From songbirds and frogs, to sunflowers and shooting stars, the innovative nature of Serosun Farms seems to be a peaceful-yet-high-performing rural oasis for more than just its human inhabitants. ILUMEN LLC SMARTFLOWER™ SOLAR

Zach Witt, owner of ilumen LLC, is an innovator on a mission, a mission to make Chicagoans take more notice of solar power. According to Witt, “Renewable energy is sort of ‘out of sight, out of mind’ in Chicago,” and he aims to change that through education and flower power. Not the flower power of the 1960s and 1970s, mind you; rather, the flower power of the revolutionary smartflower™. The award-winning smartflower™, manufactured by its namesake in Austria, is new to the United States. In fact, Witt was the very first

PHOTO: COURTESY OF SMARTFLOWERTM SOLAR

Local Innovators in Sustainable Living

PHOTO: COURTESY OF DAVE COOK, SPRING CREEK STEWARD

U.S. owner of this photovoltaic system (a.k.a., system that converts sunlight directly into electricity) masked as kinetic art sculpture, which is at home in his backyard in Barrington, Illinois. He shared with OGP that, “Many Chicagoans believe we do not have enough available sunlight to make the solar investment worthwhile, but that is simply not the case. Chicago gets plenty of sunshine 189 days per year in fact, while Germany the world’s largest solar market gets roughly 220 days of sunshine per year.” Through his efforts, though, the love is slowly spreading for this powerful, petalled pleaser. Since the launch of ilumen LLC in April 2016, Witt has sold the smartflower™ based on the impressive list of product benefits for the residential and commercial market, both, including its ability to generate 40 percent more energy production than traditional solar, easy “plug-and-play” set up, and its aesthetically pleasing, portable design. The smartflower™ overcomes many of the difficulties that plague rooftop solar. Zach is committed to continuing to educate the Chicago market on solar power and to helping people make conscious changes about energy consumption big or small.

(in biodegradable bags), e-scraps and electronics, batteries, white goods (no water softeners), clothing and textiles, and athletic shoes.

Sustainable Suggestions to Live Within the Loop

According to these Innovators, below are a few suggestions each of us can adopt to move more fully into the loop of greener, cleaner, sustainable living. When building or remodeling your home, choose contractors dedicated to being as green as possible. For example, there are building contractors, such as Suran Built in Crystal Lake, who are knowledgeable in non-traditional materials and methods and are eager to assist customers seeking better options. You can find other contractors, products and services by contacting the Illinois Chapter of the U.S. Green Building Council. For more ideas and inspiration check out the annual Green Built Homes Tour in Chicagoland which occurs each summer. Choose sustainable property maintenance techniques. PRAIRIELAND DISPOSAL Reduce the demands of lawn & RECYCLING care by planting native plants “You must be the change you or adding meadow areas. Plant wish to see in the world.” You trees to sequester CO2 in the might expect to find this famous atmosphere. Seek out landand deeply inspiring quote from scape firms like Ringers LandIndian civil rights leader and scape of Fox River Grove or pacifist, Mahatma Gandhi, in a Kettelkamp & Kettelkamp of school or church or yoga studio. Evanston who have expertise You would not necessarily expect in alternative landscapes and to find it prominently displayed can offer less chemical intensive in the header of your waste disoptions. posal and recycling company’s Compost, compost, comwebsite unless your provider is post. This might be the single Prairieland Disposal & Recycling. greenest thing you can do. Located in Lake Barrington, There are so many reasons to Illinois, Prairieland Disposal & compost, chief among them is Recycling provides environmenkeeping plant and food waste Suburban prairie landscape tally conscious waste collection, out of landfills. The food year-round food/organic scraptrapped in landfills generates ping (which is delivered to Midhuge amounts of greenhouse west Organics in Wauconda to be composted), and recycling services gases including the very potent methane. via biodiesel-fueled trucks to communities throughout Lake, McHenReduce your energy use by converting to LED bulbs around ry, and Cook Counties. Operating as a “steward of the environment,” the house or workplace which can reduce light consumption by as Prairieland strives to “reuse or recycle as much of the commercial and much as 90 percent, and integrate a smart thermostat to intelligently residential waste it collects to help conserve landfill space, reduce monitor and reduce usage. pollution, and preserve natural resources.” Through the company’s OGP Innovators: www.serosunfarms.com, www.ilumenpv.com, dedication to a greener, cleaner Illinois, it is helping municipalities, www.prairielanddisposal.com colleges, businesses, and residents make changes that positively impact the environment. Kelly lives in the northwest suburbs of Chicago with her family. After Don’t live in one of the communities served by the progressive nearly three decades crafting messages and stories in corporate America, Prairieland Disposal & Recycling? No worries. They offer drop off Kelly is thrilled to be experiencing the world and all its unique offerings service during their normal business hours, including food organics as a freelance writer and travel writer. FALL 2017 | 35

MEET THE ARTISAN

Happy Animals,

Happy Farmer,

Happy Thanksgiving w Cliff McConville makes the case for happier animals and healthier food.

BY PAM MEITZLER

eet Cliff McConville, a self-made farmer who came to a life of husbandry by way of hobby, or as Cliff says, “goofing around with having a few chickens, beef calves and some backyard pasture.” That “goofing-around” brought about All Grass Farms, a fully diversified pasture farm located off IL Route 31 on the Brunner Family Forest Preserve. With its distinctive red barn and pasture land nestled against the Fox River, All Grass Farms provides as bucolic a setting as you’ll find. The fields are dotted with grazing cows, sheep, foraging chickens and pigs. And on any autumn day, you will see additional residents milling about — turkeys. Once a year, in anticipation of Thanksgiving, All Grass Farms becomes home to 200 poults, (young fowl or turkeys). However, Cliff is not raising your average confinement-type turkey (often referred to as the Broad Breasted White, which represents 99 percent of the turkeys produced in the U.S. each year). He is raising a turkey whose life and looks have far more in common with the turkey our forefathers shared than the modern white variety the vast majority of Americans eat. He is raising a special bird for a special occasion, Thanksgiving. Despite the many commercial encroachments thrust upon the fall holiday, Thanksgiving dinner remains a singular event and “the bird” is its centerpiece. With that in mind, we talked with Cliff about what 36 | OUR GREEN PLATE

keeps him and his animals at All Grass Farms happy and healthy, and why his foraging turkeys have a leg up on the Jennie-O’s and Butterballs. OGP: First off, what brought you to farming? Cliff: I read The Omnivore’s Dilemma. The middle section was about

Joel Salatin. He was in “Food, Inc.” I had read a couple of the books he’s written for farmers, how-to books. And then there’s books he’s written more for consumers describing how crazy our food system is. After reading a couple I thought wow, maybe I can do this on my little eight acres that I’ve got in the backyard. About the same time, I got a job working from home. All of a sudden I didn’t have a three hour commute. I decided to do something I wanted to do. That’s when I really started goofing around with having chickens and a pasture, and I bought the beef calves. I got rid of the horses and bought a few pigs that we put in the woods in our backyard. It was more of a hobby. We’ll be able to eat well, and if we have a little extra, we can sell it. That’s how I became a farmer really. I had to learn a lot. I didn’t know anything starting out. I read a lot of books. I visited other farms. You have a pretty diverse farm. Which animals do you have? Cliff: We have sheep, dairy, pork, pigs, chickens, meat chickens and

egg chickens. And then we have beef, grass-fed beef.

That’s a lot of animals, you must like animals. Cliff: I do, yeah. And still my favorite thing is the animal care — being

out with happy chickens, happy cows and happy pigs. I really never thought of myself like that before, but being outside with the animals. That’s what gets me going. My favorite thing is, after I milk the cows, I get to go out and set up the daily pasture for them, and let them out. And they’re really happy. And what brought you to turkeys? Cliff: We had a lot of people asking us over the years, because they

wanted to get a turkey for Thanksgiving. I’d read some about turkeys. They’re a little harder to raise than chickens. People say that they look for ways to die. I thought maybe we’ll try some for Thanksgiving. People are more willing to pay a higher price for a Thanksgiving turkey because it’s for a special event. We wanted to raise them outdoors, and we wanted them on pasture. The problem with heritage turkeys is that most of them can fly. So it’s hard to raise them outdoors.

PHOTO: PAM MEITZLER

Most turkeys can fly? You mean as opposed to the typical turkeys we see in the grocery store? Cliff: Right, confinement turkeys, the

What do they look like? Cliff: They’re a very beautiful bird, once they get older. They’re kind

of a green bronze — very attractive birds.

How old are they when you get them? Cliff: We get them when they’re one to two days old. Then we put

them into the brooder, (heated house). They need about 100-degree heat for the first week. They stay in the brooder, but we’ll ease them off the supplemental heat. In three–four weeks, we’ll move them out onto the pasture. By Thanksgiving, typically they will be about 18–20 weeks old. People tend to like a bigger bird. Do they hang out with the other animals? Cliff: We keep them separate. They’re

kind of bullies. They would chase the hens around because they’re so much bigger than them. They have their own pen and roost, which allows them to get out — they like to get up off the ground at night, that’s just their natural instinct. They’re used to being in trees. You know, their ancestors would spend the night in trees where the predators have a harder time getting at them. Ben Franklin was very fond of

standard, what are called Broad Breastturkey and thought they were ed White turkeys, usually cannot fly superior to the bald eagle. What because they’re too big, they’re too do you think? heavy. Those Broad Breasted White Cliff: Well, it’s interesting, they’re soturkeys are designed to grow really ciable. And visitors really love to see fast, inside of a building, in a confinethe turkeys, because the turkeys will ment setting, and have a really big come running up. They’re very curibreast. Because people wanted that, ous. Unlike the chickens – the chickso they just kept genetically selecting ens come running to you because they for those Broad Breasted Whites. We know you have feed. But the turkeys raise a Broad Breasted Bronze, which check out what you’re wearing. It’s as has some of the same characteristics, if they are asking, “Do you have anybut it has been around a lot longer. The thing shiny on your shoes that we can Cliff McConville holding a new poult Broad Breasted Bronze was developed peck?” I think they’re more interesting in the ’20s or ’30s as a meat bird from than chickens. wild turkeys or heritage turkeys. It was probably the turkey that your grandparents ate from the 1930s Can you elaborate a little bit on the nutritional differences through say the ’70s. They grow relatively quickly, but not as fast between the turkey most people eat on Thanksgiving and as the Broad Breasted Whites. They do have a larger breast. Once one that’s been raised on a pasture. they get pretty big, they can’t fly. They can hop up, but they’re not Cliff: Well, I think clearly it would be similar to you or me. If we just going to take off and fly like a wild turkey will. That’s why we raise ate, let’s say meat and potatoes, and we never had any vegetables. the Broad Breasted Bronze, because we can still put them outdoors This is kind of what happens in a confinement setting. They’re not and know for the most part they’ll stay inside of that fencing. We getting any naturally occurring nutrients from vegetation. The oldhad to trade off. For us, I’d rather have the turkeys free-ranging. time farmers knew this. All the minerals and a lot of the vitamins They’re very good foragers. They will eat more green stuff than the came from the green stuff. The carbohydrates and the protein they chickens do. I don’t consider the Broad Breasted Bronze a heritage could feed them, but a lot of the minerals and the vitamins came from breed because it’s a hybrid. The heritage breeds, like the Bourbon vegetation. Anyone who’s ever had one of our turkeys says, “Wow, this Reds and some of those, they fly. So, you’ve got to keep them in a tastes a lot different than a typical turkey, even an organic one.” This cage of some kind or have elaborate netting. is because the vast majority of organic turkeys and chickens that you FALL 2017 | 37

MEET THE ARTISAN

PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

According to the Livestock Conservancy, America claimed only 1,300 heritage turkeys in 1997. Today that number is close to 30,000. They consider the following to be heritage breeds: Standard Bronze, Beltsville Small White, Black, Bourbon Red, Narragansett, Royal Palm, Slate and White Holland. Pictured here is a Bourbon Red turkey.

38 | OUR GREEN PLATE

PHOTOS: PAM MEITZLER

Above: Days-old poults; Below: A poult at 6 weeks

FALL 2017 | 39

MEET THE ARTISAN buy in the store are raised in a building. They’re not foraging. They’re not getting any green vegetation in their diet. Our turkeys have a much more robust immune system. We don’t use antibiotics, and we never have to really. They’re getting sunlight, fresh air and green forages. It has an impact — you can see it in all the animals. In the cows and the milk, that beta-carotene comes through in the milk, the golden yellow color. With the beef, it comes through in the fat. It will be yellow fat instead of white fat, which comes from corn. We belong to an organization called A.P.P.P.A., American Pastured Poultry Producers Association. They sent in meat samples of pasture-raised chicken versus an organic store-bought chicken. I’m assuming this comparison would be very similar to a pasture-raised turkey. Vitamin A, vitamin D and vitamin E were much higher in the pasture-raised chicken. If you think about it, they’re outdoors, just like we are. They get vitamin D in their skin, and that’s going to come through the meat. The omega-6/omega-3 ratio was much, much more beneficial, so were the fatty acids. It was almost, I think, 2–1 for the pasture-raised chicken and 6–1 or 8–1 for the store-bought chicken. Those are the major differences they found. There’s obviously a lot of micronutrients they probably weren’t able to test for.

this tastes like the chicken I had when I was a kid.” It was probably chickens that were running around foraging.

And what about taste? Cliff: What I’ve heard people say is, it’s just a richer taste. It’s going

(from processor) Saturday morning. People come to pick them up Saturday, and I also take some in on Monday and Tuesday. You can pick up a fresh turkey, and you can keep it fresh. They’ll go for five–six days.

to be richer. I mean, what you buy in the store tends to be very bland. There’s really not much taste to it. For example, I’ve heard a lot of people say, especially people that grew up on a farm,“Wow

I have to ask, how does the end go? Cliff: What I always tell people is that all good things come to an end.

We give them the best life possible. They have a really awesome life. They’re outdoors, in fresh air and getting fresh grass. They have a nice shelter to get into the shade, although the turkeys really like the sun. But we do have to take them in. They have one bad day at the end – a really great life and one bad day at the end. That’s all I can hope for. Let’s say I want a special Broad Breasted Bronze turkey this Thanksgiving. How do I go about it? Cliff: You can reserve one on our website. We start taking reservations

usually in spring, for the turkeys. We have a limited number this year. We raise 200 turkeys a year. Last year we had some even up until early November. They’re not cheap. Raising this type of turkey this way costs more. We charge $6.95 per pound for turkeys. Do you get it frozen? Cliff: You can, but mostly people want them fresh. I’ll get them back

Just in time for a feast.

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40 | OUR GREEN PLATE

See the animals All Grass Farms offers tours each Saturday at 2 pm through the end of October. There is also a retail farm store open year-round from 10 am to 6 pm. The store sells a variety of fresh farm products from All Grass Farms and neighboring farms and artisans. All Grass Farms, 18N681 IL Rte. 31, Dundee, IL 60118, 847-852-7081,

PHOTO: PAM MEITZLER

allgrassfarms.com.

EAT LOCAL TURKEY: In addition to All Grass Farms, local farmers offering pasture-raised turkeys and/or heritage breeds can be found at: eatwild.com and localharvest.org. PAM MEITZLER wrote this article and conducted the interview, which has been edited for length and clarity.

All Grass Farms and the Brunner Barn

Helping families achieve a healthier and more sustainable lifestyle through landscaping.

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FALL 2017 | 41

ONE SMALL THING

Save Our Seeds BY PAM MEITZLER

Why Should I Save Seeds? Create your own cultivar. Say that you have a plant you love and want to grow again or share with someone else. Several decades ago, gardeners would carefully dry and save a few of the best seeds in preparation for the next year — keeping a few out to give as gifts to friends and family, or trade with fellow gardeners at a local seed exchange for other intriguing varieties. This tradition has largely been lost among today’s amateur gardeners, as most assume all of next year’s garden will come from a seed packet purchased in a catalog or store. That’s a shame, because it is immensely rewarding to watch a garden spring to life with seeds from last year’s successes. As it turns out, seed saving also serves another important purpose: protecting genetic diversity in our food system.

What is Seed Saving? Want to bank the rewards of a well-spent summer in the garden while passing down an heirloom to the next generation? Save your seeds. Often referred to casually as “brown bagging” and scientifically as “selection pressure,” seed saving is keeping back the best seeds from the best plants for the next season. This practice is important because it helps preserve the heritage and diversity of our foods. Favoring certain traits and discouraging others, seed saving inherently creates strains which are superior to your locality. 42 | OUR GREEN PLATE

The Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations estimates that since the beginning of the last century about 75 percent of the diversity of agricultural crops has been lost. There is no shortage of studies confirming the alarming decrease in seed stock diversity. One has only to walk down a grocery aisle to observe abundant quantity, but less abundant variety. Relying on fewer and fewer strains of seeds decreases the genetic base and increases the risk of crop failure from disease, fungus, pests, and climate variability. If we’re all eating the same kind of tomatoes, potatoes, bananas, etc., and they’re wiped out, their seeds and unique traits will be lost. The Gros Michel banana, the banana your grandfather ate, is a classic example of a lost food. Another example is the Irish Potato Famine. The culture’s reliance on just one or two high-yielding potatoes eliminated any chance of fending off the devastating blight. Finally, the risks only increase as seed genetics become increasingly under the control of a handful of multinational companies, whose focus is on a few, highly successful strains.

ILLUSTRATION/LETTERING: JESSICA COLLETTE

Why is Genetic Diversity Important?

Which seeds can I save?

Want to learn more about seed saving?

You don’t need to be a scientist to save seeds, but you do need the right plants. You can save seeds from open-pollinated, self-pollinated and heirloom plants. They will grow true-to-seed, that is, nearly identical to the parent plant. Self-pollinated plants hold all the genetic information needed on one plant. Open-pollinated plants rely on natural pollination from insects and wind. However, if you want an exact replica of an open-pollinated plant, you must prevent cross-pollination from another plant species. Heirloom denotes plants that are vintage varieties and have been passed down for generations. Heirloom plants are always open-pollinated. Regarding hybrids, you cannot save seeds from them. While hybrids have their place and benefits, their seeds will not result in a replica of the parent plant. They may or may not have any characteristics of their parent seed. Hybrid seed is usually noted as F1 on seed packets.

Seed banks and seed exchanges are valuable resources. Seed banks have helped amateur gardeners save their families’ heirloom seeds. Both seed exchanges and banks offer advice, information, and opportunities to meet fellow gardeners, explore plant diversity and exchange seeds. Following are a few regional resources: Seed Savers Exchange, Decorah, IA, www.seedsavers.org; Cleveland Seed Bank, OH, www. clevelandseedbank.org; Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, MO, www. rareseeds.com. You can also check out “Seed: The Untold Story,” a newly released documentary, www.seedthemovie.com.

PHOTO (INSET): SHUTTERSTOCK

How do you save seeds? It’s easy. First, pick the fruit from the best plant. Although you can save seeds from a fruit as soon as it is ripe to eat, it is recommended that you leave them a bit longer. Scoop out the pulp and put it in a canning jar with a little water. Leave it there. It will get a moldy, and that’s OK. It is fermenting. After a few days, skim the goo off the top, including any seeds that float, rinse and repeat the process. Strain out the seeds, and leave them to dry on a plate or glass surface. Try not to use paper. The seeds will stick to it. When your seeds are completely dry (give them one additional day from when you think they are dry to be sure), put them in a paper envelope and label them. Store in a cool dry environment.

Our World’s Seed Bank The most well-known seed bank is the Svalbard Global Seed Vault located on Norway’s Svalbard archipelago. Built to last 1,000 years, it was designed to be the backup for all seed banks worldwide. It can store 4.5 million seed samples (each seed sample is 500 seeds). You can learn more of this extraordinary project by watching “Seeds of Time” which chronicles the effort to establish global-wide seed saving.

FALL 2017 | 43

BRAIN FOOD

Michael Pollan’s Call to Arms Reveals the Heart of the Dilemma BY DALE I. JUFFERNBRUCH

hat Should We Have for Dinner? It seems like a simple question, but in actuality, the inquiry is cloaked in subterfuge. In Michael Pollan’s seminal work, The Omnivore’s Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals, we are taken on an unsettling trip through America’s food chains. Using the origins and preparation of four different meals, Pollan sheds light on the economic, health, and environmental consequences each meal creates. The first meal begins in a Midwestern cornfield and ends up in Chicken McNuggets and a cheeseburger at McDonald’s. Pollan follows the trucks carrying federally-subsidized corn to Confined Animal Feeding Operations (CAFOs) where he discovers the feedlot. Teeming with filth, stink and crowding and surrounded by manure lagoons, he concludes there exists only one reason the occupants survive...the modern antibiotic. Cheap corn feeds the steer that becomes steak; it feeds the chicken, pig, turkey and lamb. Eggs, milk and cheese, which once came from grass-eating animals, now come from livestock consuming corn. In fact, corn comprised 56% of that McDonald’s cheeseburger and 78% of the accompanying “milk” shake. The artful reorganization of the corn molecule is pervasive. Pollan notes that there are about 45,000 items in the average American supermarket, and more than one quarter of them contain corn. What about a meal that started from organic ingredients bought at a supermarket? Pollan labels this type of food chain Industrial Organic. In the meat section, he found a broiler chicken by the name of “Rosie.” According to the package, consumers are led to believe that Rosie free-ranges in the fresh air and sunshine. However, upon closer inspection, Pollan discovered (after donning a hazmat suit to tour the “farm”), that “Rosie” lived with 20,000 other “Rosies” in a football field-sized shed with small openings at the ends. Because the producers are raising these chickens organically, they caution against 44 | OUR GREEN PLATE

exposing the birds to germs. Therefore, the shed openings remain closed for the first 5 weeks of the chickens’ lives...so they don’t learn to go outside. “The [industrial] organic movement looks less like a movement than a big business.” The food chain leading to the third meal is quite short. Pollan introduces us to the grass farm and Joel Salatin, who owns Polyface Farm in Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley. He attempts to replicate what occurs in nature on a domestic scale. For example, cattle naturally want to cluster while grazing in order to protect themselves from predators. Salatin uses portable electric fencing, which he moves daily to allow his grasses to remain healthy. A few days after the cows have grazed an area, Salatin brings in the Eggmobile, a “cross between henhouse and prairie schooner.” At this point, the grubs in the cow pies are fat, which the hens love to devour. This keeps the fly population down, and Salatin needn’t use de-wormer drugs on his cattle. Polyface Farm and its inhabitants radiate health – no manure lagoons here. And, the animals aren’t the only healthy ones. We now know that there exist higher levels of omega-3 fatty acids in meat, eggs and milk from pastured animals which offer superior nutrition compared to industrially produced food. This grass farm model also effectuates the removal of carbon from the atmosphere. “[If] the 16 million acres now being used to grow corn to feed cows in the U.S. became well-managed pasture, we would realize, the equivalent of taking 4 million cars off the road.” Pollan states. Why aren’t more farms operating as Polyface Farm does? The government actually incentivizes industrial agriculture: tax breaks for building feedlots and clean air and clean water law exemptions for CAFOs. All this governmental meddling obscures the true price of this food choice – the costs to the environment, public health and the taxpayer. Pollan’s final meal is personal. For it, he hunts, gathers and grows the makings of his dinner. On his journey to this “foraged” meal, Pollan fortunately meets Angelo, a forager passionate about the getting and preparing of food. Pollan, with Angelo’s guidance, hunts for wild pig. Pollan ferreted out morel mushrooms with an experienced mushroom forager. He also gathered Bing cherries, wild chamomile, and wild yeast spores and grew the fava beans, salad greens, mint and lemon balm. Pollan acknowledges the foraged feast is not realistic, but to him, it tasted real and connected the author to people and places. The Omnivore’s Dilemma creates an awareness of the profound implications of our food choices. It is apparent that the industrialized food chains have left us disconnected with our food. If we are to make informed decisions about the food we eat every day, we can begin by reconnecting with our food—where it is produced and the people producing it. Dale has researched food and nutrition for the past decade and buys much of her food directly from farmers. She is an avid cook and loves to eat.

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