O U R S T O R Y T H E
Mandem On The Wall // S. Q. U. A . D / /
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H o o d s U p, H e a d s D o w n , H a n d s U p. . . D o n’ t S h o o t #CrepGame // Barbershop Culture 1
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“There is no greater agony than bearing an untold stor y inside you.� - Maya Angelou
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OURSTORY EDITOR IN CHIEF Eddyline Sikuku CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Deborah Williams Grant Sandiford PHOTOGRAPHERS Ariane Gibert Calister Chishanu Ezekiel Akinnewu SPECIAL THANKS Robert de Niet, Andre Abrahams, Alumni Models, Ayo Babatope, Christian Byfield, Daniel Downey, De’jaun Johnson-Pedro, Julia Edwards, Ethan Richards, Timmy Odejimi, Sharlicia Blake, Jude Warnes, Jesse Balfour, Cyrus Nderitu, Moses Wainaina, Zach Kirlew, Andrea Antoniou, Tim Victor, Anne-Marie Thompson, Ramario Chevoy, Mandem on The Wall, Myles Litchmore, Modou Adams, Shana Williams, 1723 Studios, Remi Black, Yemi Davis, Ben Francis, Ethan Mutero. CONTACT info@ourstorymagazine.com @OurStoryMagazine
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THE ‘I AM’ ISSUE SPRING SUMMER 2015
INTERVIEWS 16. OurGeneration 20. Chelsea Bravo 45. Marvin Maddix 46. Artgoon 74. Madem On The Wall 80. Emeka Egbuonu
FEATURES 22. The Language of clothes 40. What is Black? 48. Alternative Art 84. The Barbershop Culture
PHOTO SHOOTS 11. OurStyle 14. #CrepGame 30. 90’s Monochrome 50. S.Q.U.A.D 88. HairStory
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BALMAIN PARIS 7
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YES
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Have you ever been stopped or followed by the authority for no reason? Do older people cross the road to avoid walking past you? Do people walk faster at night if you are walking behind them? Do people have to shorten your name ? Do you have to tick the minority box on ethnicity form? Are you tired of being misrepresented in the media? ** PLEASE INDICATE YOUR ANSWER BY PUTTING A TICK ON YES OR NO IF YOU ANSWERED YES TO ANY OF THE ABOVE ANSWER, THIS ISSUE IS YOUR STORY.
How would you feel if you were constantly judged on something that is part of your identity, something that you cannot alter? This is the reality black men are constantly subjected to in our society everyday. What if these weaknesses they are judged on become their strengths? And their downfall becomes their crown. For this issue, OurStory deconstructed the identity of black men. We believe everybody has a back-story, but one of the most powerful back-stories in society is the journey of the young black men. We want to share and reveal the true back-story of these individuals and give them a platform to showcase their stories.
Eddyline Sikuku Editor-in-chief
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2. 1. Adidas Flux 2. Y-3 Football Boots 3. Y-3 Kubo 4. Super Position Y’s For Adidas 5. Rick Owens For Adidas 6. Y-3 Archives 7. Nike Airforce
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OurGeneration iMake,iCreate, iProduce, therefore I am.
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Tim Victor Age: 24 From: New Jersey, USA Lives: Birmingham, UK Occupation: Music Artist
What is your favourite karaoke song? There’s so many but I would have to say the classic “R Kelly - I Believe I Can Fly Fly Flyyyyy”
How would you describe your music for people who have never heard it before? Eclectic, real, fun, soulful, thought provoking and relatable.
Who/ What inspired you to want to make music? Life experiences, people and nature inspired me to make music.
How much creative control do you have over your own music? Well… I have some of the creative control of my music with the guidance of my producer, Jaymorf. We both work as a team, we write together, I do the vocals, he creates the music production based on the vibe/genre we’re going for and we create the music in a recording session.
What song makes you smile? Hmm… there’s so many but currently it has to be “Beyonce - 7/11” Lol! You’re stranded in deserted island and can have one artist with you, who will it be and why? Hmmmmm!! I’d say Michael Jackson, simply of the fact that he’s such a pioneer in music and entertainment. He’s one of my influences and I believe if I had the opportunity to spend time with him, I’d learn soooooo much and use his advice on my own path of my artistry. He’s a humble, talented being and his gifting has left such an impact and legacy on this earth. Shoot, he’s just dope!! Who empowers you as a Black male? Dr. Martin Luther King, he had a dream and even when his dream seemed impossible, he kept on dreaming until that dream came to pass. That really speaks volume to me because its showing that he persevered and never gave up on what he believed in, that inspires me to stick to my vision and keep grinding until my dream becomes a reality. If I ever feel like giving up, I think about what he went through and where he’s coming from and that reignites me to keep going.
Music is LIFE!!! Yaaaaassssss!!! I make music because it’s a creative outlet that allows me to express what I can’t verbally explain. Music makes me feel excited, empowered and liberated. The first record I brought was Michael Jackson - Rock With You The last gig I went to was Vocals & Verses in Shoreditch and I was one of the acts that performed. It was a great night! Currently am working with a rapper called DSouth, we’re working on a track that’s to be released in the summer. I can’t wait for y’all to hear it. Where can people find your work? Website: www.timvictorofficial.com Soundcloud: www.soundcloud.com/timvictor Youtube: www.youtube.com/mrtimvictor
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anne-marie thompson Age: 26 From: Dudley Occupation: Stylist & Fashion Blogger How would you describe your signature look? My signature look I would say is boyishly chic! I like to look feminine, but I am also very inspired by menswear.
Who empowers you as Black woman? Knowing that I am capable of anything! Oprah Winfrey is living proof of that, seeing successful woman motivates me.
Best compliment you have received? That I resemble Eva Marcille (She’s stunning!) So that’s quite a compliment!!
What inspires you the most? My surroundings, people, different eras, my growth, my journey and my aspirations.
Whose closet would you most like to raid and why? Rihanna’s closet! She looks great with just about anything I love her diverse taste and style.
What makes you smile? Music, shopping, my niece, and seeing other people smile.
Do you have any style tips specifically for men? Know your shape and dress to your size! It is important to get the FIT right…it makes all the difference.
What is one item that you cannot live without? My phone!
What is best meal you have ever had in a restaurant? I am a big foodie, Haha! So hmmm, I would say Lobster has been the best dish yet at Altitude.
If you could learn to do anything, what would it be and why? How to be a survivalist. I want to learn how to sustain a lifestyle in crazy conditions!
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Ezekiel Akinnewu Age: 24 From: London Occupation: Art Director
Who is a famous person that you relate to and why? The person I can relate to is Kanye West. Fashion unfortunately is still highly racist. West’s love for fashion and his actions to boost black culture reminds me a lot about myself. I aim to inspire young fashion designers such as myself to reach for their dreams regardless of what ‘the system’ wants them to do or think. As a filmmaker and contemporary photographer, I really look up to legends such as Spike Lee & Andy Warhol. Their work highly influences the illustrations and visuals I come up with. I combine art with moving frames.
What inspires you the most? The world. I would like to say that I am like a walking camera, constantly taking photographs, creating mood boards and scenery in my head. Everything inspires me from music to film to fabrics to culture I combine all these things to create the work I release.
What is best meal you have ever had in a restaurant? Fried rice with chilli beef and fried squid, at the Orange Tree Hotel.
What is one item that you cannot live without? My camera canon EOS 6D.
Who empowers you as Black male? Firstly God, I believe that He has put me here to bless others. I know that the success that I have received from fashion and film making all comes from Him. Secondly I would say myself, I have gradually realised over the years that you just have to stop waiting around for other people to break the mould and do it yourself! I have witnessed countless of talented people who have lost opportunities, just because they thought they were not good enough. You have to believe in yourself. My wife has also played a huge role at empowering me. Her prayers and support keeps me going.
What makes you smile? God, my wife, work, art and my supporters.
If your barber and your girlfriend were drowning who would you save and why? Well if she was my girlfriend, a man has to get his shape up! Lol. But because she is my wife and I love her to pieces I would save my wife. You can always replace a barber but you cannot replace God’s gift to you.
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Photographed by Noah LeToy
CHELSEA BRAVO To create your own fashion label you need tremendous confidence and vision. After receiving recognition in 2013, London based designer Chelsea Bravo, 26, did exactly that and founded her eponymous menswear brand ‘Chelsea Bravo’. Bravo was born in the bright lights of New York but moved to London at the tender age of two. She graduated from the University For The Creative Arts where she expresses how going to university helped her to become more creative. She said “I learned not be afraid to push unconventional design ideas that has in turn influenced the way I approach my design process today.” After university the now upcoming creator went on to intern for designers Christopher Shannon and Martine Rose, who taught her lessons that transcend through her work to this day. They taught her to stay true to herself and her vision, never letting others dictate what she should produce. Like many young girls her love for fashion began from her childhood. She recalls, “from an early age I was interested in how people would put clothes together.” She continues “I watched Fashion TV, where you could watch designers around the world back to back. I was captivated and fascinated by it all and I wanted to be a part of it. It was my mother who told me that I could go to fashion school and become a fashion
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designer.” It was at this moment that unlike other youngsters her age who just liked clothes she went on to follow her dream. The typical Chelsea Bravo man is, according to the trendsetter, “creative, fearless, smart, cool and appreciates design.” He is also someone who appreciates the inspirations behind a collection. It comes as no surprise to learn that the vision for the brand is to “express creative freedom and push contemporary menswear design forward through construction, shape and silhouette.” Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto, Rej Kawakubo, Damir Doma, Casely Hayford and Junya Watanabe are a few of Bravo’s favourite menswear designers. Designing for men offered a playing field where she could present new ideas and push some boundaries. “I designed womenswear for my first two years at University. In my final year I wanted to challenge myself and I decided to do menswear. At first the transition was hard and I questioned myself so many times but looking back I am glad I stuck with it. It’s easy to design for women because, we can wear just
about anything” explains Bravo. “I feel like as a woman designing for men I have more freedom. I am not a guy and I’m not thinking as a guy, what will my friends think if I wear this? I like to think that guys don’t really know what could potentially look good on them, so it’s my job to inspire and show them! I just sketch my ideas and worry about the rest later.” However the young entrepreneur says “designing garments that will push menswear design forward but at the same time look good” is one of the most challenging parts of fashion. She goes on to say that “silhouettes are challenging, I constantly want to break away from the conventional silhouette but it’s hard to do without jeopardising masculinity and how this is seen and portrayed in society.” Last year Bravo enlisted the help of contemporary artist and poet Kojey Radial as her brand art director where she has continued to deliver her innovative new designs. This season the brand’s first presentation was showcased at the London Collection. Of her S/S15 collection entitled ‘Concourse’, Bravo says that it “was to recreate the experience of viewing art in a space, people meeting art and art meeting people. The name Concourse is one of Barbara Hepworth’s pieces; she was a cubist sculptor and one of the inspirations behind the collection.” The collection is mainly focused on art and explores a colour palette of reds, whites and blues with bursts of black and yellow throughout. Despite being new to the scene Bravo is already making her mark, with designs that push forward contemporary menswear and break away from the usual structure through construction, shape and silhouette. The collection was inspired by hermits, monks and other people who want to stay away from mainstream society. This was
the influence for the clothes. A signature piece within The Chelsea Bravo brand is the all-inone jumpsuit. Bravo says of the piece “It’s a look that isn’t broken up into a top or bottom, that’s why I like to do it. I don’t have to split up the design elements for the jumpsuit, I can combine everything together to create one look.” The jumpsuit took direct inspiration from those who wanted to steer out of the mainstream. These influences led Bravo to develop her clothes and push the boundaries of her designs even further. She balanced out her collection with felt cut out shapes, wide leg cropped trousers and denim strip-wear detailing in both the jumpsuit and other products such as the concourse shirts. Currently Bravo’s biggest inspiration is singer-songwriter Jhene Aiko. She explains “I have been a fan of her since she was young and have followed her journey in music. She has had different set backs but has never given up and it is finally paying off for her. She inspires me to keep going for everything I want and everything I believe in.” Pushing her vision further forward, Bravo hopes to one day collaborate with designer Gosha Rubchinskiy and Comme Des Garcons. She states that the next step in her collection is to “build the infrastructure of the brand, to connect with buyers and find a stockist.” But the question we have is how exactly is this upcoming creative going to top her next collection?
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Photography by Eddyline Sikuku
THE L ANGAUGE OF CLOTHES Style is all about self-expression. So Eddyline Sikuku asks, why is wearing a hoodie exempt from this?
“Can you tell me why every time I step outside, I see my niggas die, I’m letting you know that it ain’t no gun they make that can kill my soul.” Hip Hop artist, J Cole reveals some sobering truths on his 2014 single, Free. Clearly explaining that white supremacy still exists, his words echo the painful cry of the black struggle. Three years ago, on the 26th February 2012, the black community was gripped by the killing of unarmed Florida teenager, Trayvon Martin, who was brutally killed because he was wearing a hoodie and “looked suspicious.” Speaking on Fox & Friends news show, American attorney, Geraldo Rivera provoked outrage by stating “I am urging the parents of black and Latino youngsters particularly to not let their children go out wearing hoodies. I think the hoodie is as much responsible for Trayvon Martin’s death as George Zimmerman was. I’m not suggesting that Trayvon Martin had any kind of weapon or anything, but he wore an outfit that allowed someone to respond in this irrational, overzealous way and if he had been dressed more appropriately, I think unless it’s raining out, or you’re at a track meet, leave the hoodie home.” But how can a utilitarian item of clothing worn by all ages become the ultimate symbol for rebellion? “You can not rehabilitate the hoodie.” Explains Adeleke Adio, a bank manager from Reading. “For me first impressions count massively, so I make sure I look representable at all times. I refuse
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to wear a hoodie as I do not want to accept its associations.” Rebekah Williams, a youth worker explains, “I do not believe it has anything to do with the garment. It is not the article of clothing at all it is the wearer. When a white guy is wearing a hoodie with tracksuit bottoms, he might be looked at as a hoodlum or a chav and a black guy in a hood may be looked at as dangerous. But if you see a granny in a hoodie it is comical.” History tells us that in 1919, clothing company, Champion U.S.A, made their first hooded sweatshirt. They were created to protect and provide warmth to athletes and labourers from the cold. The cheap and cosy garment was then adopted by subcultures, such as skaters, emos, BMXers to surfers, who wore it to show outcast and isolation. Hip-Hop artists began to use the hoodie to intimidate and bring anonymity to keep the invading world outside. “All clothes start off with one purpose, to clothe the person that would be wearing it. No connotations behind it Imply different meaning like mini skirts. But it is the person who brings the bad or the good connotations to it,” Karen Godden, a fashion buyer from London explains. With marijuana being made legal in some states across America, hoodies are becoming more advanced. Hoodie companies, VapRwear and Hood Horkerz, have launched the world’s first all-inone hoodie, which has a built in discreet vaporizer, making it easier
to throw on the hooded sweatshirt and just blaze. Most recently, the Casely-Hayford’s A/W 2015 menswear collection conceptualised urban rebels, outsiders and runaways, with the show closing with hooded models, facing down, to give off a vaguely disconcerting look. But why is it when the hoodie leaves the catwalk and hits the streets the celebration stops? Tyrone Reid, a business sales executive from Manchester shares, “one time I was coming from the gym, it was in broad daylight and was wearing a tracksuit bottoms and a hooded sweatshirt. I got on the bus and sat towards the middle section and there was this middle-aged woman there. When I sat down she got up, looked at me for a couple of seconds and moved to the front of the bus. I just sat down and took out my book to read because that is not my mentality. I am the type of person that I do not let things bother me or get to me. Things like that don’t make me want to change the way I dress.” A garment made for warmth; the hoody has been conveyed from an image of power and success, to a symbol of menace and danger. “Clothes have a way to amplify people. In society, the clothes that you wear can either degrade and misrepresent a person or amplify them. Clothes come with they own characteristics that set you up when you put them on,” adds Williams. Priya Ahluwalia, an upcoming menswear designer explains, “the hoodie is a garment that is everyone’s default wardrobe choice that has been renovated into a criminal cloak. I do not feel its right that someone has to be dead because of wearing it. Yes, clothes do have the power to represent you but people should not judge the book by the cover. It is easier said than done but we have to understand that not everyone who wears it is intending to do bad.” In Oklahoma, a new banning law called Senate Bill 13, which makes it illegal to wear a hoodie in public, has been approved. The law states, “it shall be unlawful for any person in this state to: Wear a mask, hood or covering, which conceals the identity of the wearer during the commission of a crime or for the purpose of coercion, intimidation or harassment.” This law aims to bring protection to the community and the lower crime rates. But is this a step too far that eliminates personal freedom?Leroy James, a microbiology PhD student explains how this is an idealistic approach. “As a black male I feel that we are perceived to be a threat in society. I know that we can be more than what people portray us to be. You can be seen as a thug just because you’re wearing a hoodie. I wear hoodies but I am not illiterate but I would still be labeled as a thug or a gangster. As people we can sometimes judge someone by the way they dress. However, appearance does not say everything about a person.” The hoodie is marketed as fashionable and deemed bad in society, it is still aids as a functional go-to item for everyday wear. The media has had a massive influence on how people view the hoodie, by portraying that it aids of all types of crime. Becky West, support worker, explains how someone wearing a hoodie can be unapproachable. “Growing up in a small town and now living in a big city, I still carry the perception till today from watching the news and movies. When I see someone wearing a hoodie it frightens me and I would rather cross the road to avoid them than passing them. The hoodie to me inscribes with meaning that they up to no good.” “When the media posts something, it has a big impact on the public. You never see a picture of a successful black person wearing a hoodie. The only time you see an image of a black person wearing a hoodie is when it involves crime. This indicates
that hoodie wearers are a threat and should not be trusted. But most of the it is just because a man’s head is cold,” adds Reid.
“I think the hoodie is as much responsible for Trayvon Martin’s death as George Zimmerman was.” “This is another form of unconscious racism. If a white woman walks down the road and sees a black guy wearing a hoody and is frightened, for her she is not technically racist or neither does she hate black people. But her fears and instant thoughts to cross the road are typical traits of unconscious racism,” says Williams. The long history of the hoodie has definitely distorted its place in society. While others see it as bad, many others see it another wardrobe staple. Nevertheless the real issue here is stereotyping a person shouldn’t be defined by their clothes. “I look to a day when people will not be judged by the color of their skin, but by the content of their character,” are the famous words of Dr. Martin Lurther King.
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Out & About Photographed by Ariane Gibert
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From Gangster to Gentleman The renovation of the Hip-Hop artist. Words by Deborah Williamss
There’s a new face joining the Hip-hop elite that’s gaining more street credentials than ever before. The modern gent’s mentor, Tom Ford, has been dressing high-profile musicians for years and because he’s been on his suit and tie sh*t longer than I could imagine, it’s no surprise he was name-dropped in the song. Creating the artwork for JT’s 20/20 album, Ford has even designed a 600-piece wardrobe for the 20/20 World Experience tour. A$AP Rocky included him in his ‘Fashion Killa’ single and the big boss himself, Rick Ross, told everyone what he wears to the Grammys in Rihanna’s ‘Pour It Up’ remix. If that’s not enough proof of his initiation into the Hip hop world, then Jay-Z even dedicated a song about him on his ‘Magna Carta Holy Grail’ album. The Tuxedo King even said that his favourite part of the song was, “I don’t pop Molly, I rock Tom Ford.” Going on to say “I love that he gets a ‘high’ from my clothes.” However, the Hip-hop worlds stance on fashion has never been its ultimate claim to fame. Coming from the urban youth scene dominating the USA in the 70s, founding father, DJ Kool Herc gave a new way of life to the inner city youth. Afrika Bambaata and Grandmaster Flash and the Furious Five channelled inspirations from the rock, disco and funk genres, before Hip-hop had gained its own personal style. The 80s never saw so much two-piece tracksuits and fedora combinations until rapping crew; RunDMC “walked this way.” The Afrocentric’s came along with sharp hi-top haircuts, braids and medallions and Kangol hats never looked cooler than when LL Cool J showed us why all the ladies love him. Leading us into the 90s, Tupac, Snoop Dogg, Notorious B.I.G and Diddy (Puff Daddy back then), all looked to the iconic film gangsters and rocked the ‘real Miami’ – silk shirts and gator shoes to match, better than Al Pacino did in Scarface. Hoodies, du-rags and Timberland boots were also a part of the 90s Hiphop style. The lifestyle that came with the clothing and music didn’t fall far from the tree. The ‘nobody can tell me attitude’ was rife and the whole gangster character came to life. Still believing that “even if you agree with authority, you should still question it.” – Lupe Fiasco. Now, many artists are noticing that the conveying of wealth has changed. People don’t want the overindulgence of big
chains and fat rings anymore. They just want the mature subtlety of the suit and tie. With the swapping of baggy jeans for tapered trousers, oversized t-shirts with crisp white tuxedo shirts and thick gold chains longer than your girlfriend’s extensions with bow ties, the success ladder of Hip-hop has added a few more steps. Arise the new breed of Hip-hop leaders, the Mogul. Diddy, Jay-Z, Russell Simmons, 50 Cent, Dr. Dre and Ludacris all started on the streets where getting by was the aim of the game and the underline attitude was to always “keep it real.” So how are they still able to bring out the latest Ralph Lauren dinner jacket, with loafers to match, while still being able to keep it real? They realised they needed multiple sources of income and could not just keep their craft to one specific audience. Let’s take a look at our favourite gazillionaire, 50 cent. He started of as what I like to call ‘hood rich.’ Releasing his G-Unit clothing line and his film ‘Get Rich Or Die Tryin’ but then realised in order to get somewhere he needed to clean up his image. So what did he do? He slipped on a suit and tie, became a philanthropist, organising community projects, creating energy drink, ‘Street King’ to raise money for world hunger, invested in a vitamin water company sponsored by Coca Cola, launched SMS Audio, selling a range of headphones and joined the league of extraordinary ‘movie star’ gentlemen, starring in several films including upcoming 2015 American sports-drama, ‘Southpaw’ with Jake Gyllenhaal and Forest Whitaker. Whether a gangster or a gent, don’t worry, it’s possible to be both. Take your queues from the Hip-hop moguls themselves. Find several moneymaking ventures to expand your empire and add a whole load of Tom Ford into your life and go take on the corporate world, Chinchilla coat and all.
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I s U r b a n Fa s h i o n still influenced by hip-hop? Words by Grant Sandiford
In an era that still feels the ripples from the late 90’s Hip-Hop revolution, which dictated the confines for men and even women’s street wear. The new Millennium brought the same traits of the last decade with baggy, jeans, slouchy t-shirts and ill-fitting jackets, reflecting the times. With the exhibition Hip-Hop Revolution opened in New York to showcase the of photographers – Janette Beckman, Joe Conzo, and Martha Cooper wheo documented Hip-Hop of its “pioneering days through its emergence into mainstream popular culture.”
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Run D.M.C, a Hip-Hop group influenced the fashion industry with the gold dookie rope chains, bucket hats and adidas tracksuits. The Hip-Hop style went from being cool on the catwalk as the streets. When Raf Simons featured puffy hooded jackets, baggy trousers in his runway. However, in the mid-2000’s leading up to 2010 there was a somewhat paradigm shift in the world of men’s street wear. The jeans became more and more tight as the years progressed reflecting the style of high-end fashion of brands such as Ferragamo and Louis Vuitton which were one of the many brands which illustrated that sophistication lied within tailored fit. Two ambassadors have broken the mould, paving the way for men to be more free with what they wear and even adapting a new style of old classics. The first of these is A$AP Rocky, who broke onto the rap scene in 2011 after a stream of successful small performances, before Drake took him under his wing to tour with him, which was followed by a tour with the pop diva Rihanna. His fan base grew exponentially from there to make him more than just a niche underground rapper but a mainstream icon. It was clear from the offset that his fan base grew not only due to his style of rapping but from his unconventional dress sense. ‘Lord Pretty Flacko’ as A$AP often dubs himself is truly a style icon, as he in his short time in the limelight has established a cultural blueprint for the youth of our generation which comprises aspects from both high-end fashion and street wear - ‘BLVCK X WHITE’. The colour scheme is a common sight in the most expensive of fashion retailers which is paired with an ensemble which is accessible to everybody. Often Nike© Airforce One high/lowtops (black or white), with jeans of contrasting colour
to the shoes with the top matching the shoes, or combining both in elaborate designs, followed by corresponding accessories ie black cap. With his recent collaboration with Adidas Original, Kanye West, a teen favourite from his album ‘College drop out’ days has recently propelled himself into the fashion industry after a rise to fashionable fame, due to what the media called the ‘Kanye Effect’. This phenomenon refers to the instant where West was pictured in an article of clothing, then almost as though it were a chain reaction that item will be in higher demand. There are several examples of this firstly long-line apparel. Retailers have given these items of clothing their own category due to demand. The sudden re-emergence of long-line t-shirts is more than likely a subtle throwback to 90’s rap culture, like a lot of the clothes which are coming back into trend today. West style exudes practicality and can be seen to be more accessible to the common consumer, as for instance he will match a bomber jacket with a pair of ripped jeans and trainers which is very easy to replicate. A$AP Rocky’s style has become all the more prevalent amongst teens in our generation, as they will often match standard articles of clothing eg a pullover hoody with a lamb’s wool overcoat which was an unheard of combination until Rocky done so. Ultimately the Hip-Hop world has a substantial influence on urban fashion as; the rappers which turn into icons would have most often come from a disadvantaged or difficult background, making their day to day struggles which they express through music more empathetic to the audience. Resulting in the audience trusting what the rappers say, thus facilitating a degree of trust which will result in the musical icon having a level of influence over the audience.
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90’S MONOCHROME Let’s take it back to the Golden Age. Photographed by Calister Chishanu Styled by Deborah Williams Make-up by Julia Edwards Edited by Eddyline Sikuku
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Longline Vest With Detroit Print Mesh Panels - Asos Jersey Shorts In Mesh With Megging - Zara Bucket Hat - Jd Nike SB Trainerendor- Nike
Timmy Odejimi s
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Maxi Mesh Kimono - Nicce Ava Faux Leather Shorts - Motel Sport Style Socks - Asos Airtex Bralet - River Island Adilette Sliders - Adidas
Sharlicia Blake
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Bathing Ape Long Sleeved T-Shirt - Aape Jersey Shorts With Badges - Topman Suede Classic - Puma
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Timmy Odejimi & Andre Abrahamss
Crew Neck T-Shirt With Varsity - American Apparel
Andre Abrahams
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Ethnic Diverse Emojis Emojis, the online characters we use in every conversation when words alone cannot cut it. These characters are there to help express our emotions to the other person. Apple teamed up with Unicode to add more diversity and allow users to choose from six choices of skin tones, from yellow Simpsons to radiant ebony. I can I get a Hallelujah! To say the least, the struggle has been real. Before, the closest thing we had ethnic was an Asian man wearing a gua pi Mao cap and an Indian man wearing a turban. So the question is why has it taken this long. Surely, it couldn’t have been that hard to just alter a few things, right? Whatever the reason, it is great that Apple have finally decided to take a step towards showing diversity. With gay couples, same sex families and more international flags added, Apple has still not managed to please everyone with the new diversity. Redheads are still in the waiting line as there are no characters that features their hair colour. It seems like I cannot go a conversation without needing to add the sassy girl emoji. They add different meanings to conversations, like receiving a compliment [insert sassy], how may I help you? [insert sassy] or adding a sarcastic remark [insert sassy]. But why are we so obsessed with these characters anyway? To some, they are more than just little icons. We are living in a digitalised fantasy where we are regularly on phones or tablets and it is becoming apart of our day-to-day life. People now want to be able to relate themselves to these characters, from race, to sexual orientation even down to the colour of the hair. With a high command to carter for all, what will hold next for these characters? Maybe everyone will be able to customise his or hers own look? We will just have to stay tuned.
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W H AT IS BL ACK? Words by Deborah Williams
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With the new N.W.A biopic set to release later this year, Jay-Z and Kanye living it up as ‘Niggas in Paris’ and the forever infamous but established phrase ‘nigga please’ precedent in our humour lineage, Deborah Williams asks, can the N-Word be used to define being black? “H o w w e r e y o u r a i s e d o n P u b l i c E n e m y a n d s t i l l b e c a m e y o u r o w n w o r s t e n e m y ? ” some thought-provoking words from Dean Atta’s poem, I Am Nobody’s Nigger.” A word that has been used to persecute, derogate and literally blacken the spirit of black people has now become a word of reclamation for some… but not for me. A word rooted from the Spanish and Portuguese noun Negro, descending from the Latin adjective Niger, which both mean black. The word was known to denote a black or dark-skinned person but then later became a racial slur of segregation. The ‘Niggers’ portrayal over the years has not been clean at all. With the underline intention to inhabit characteristics of being, “economically, politically and socially disenfranchised” and now “this misinterpretation of our heritage has been perpetuated among our own race,” says Jonathan McCoy, who started a petition in 2010 to remove the demeaning word from the English language. “The N-word is like an abyss, a black hole. Many are very ignorant to the past. It’s being used by non-black people and tried to be seen as a term of endearment, however some words cannot be returned,” explains a young black male from a Birmingham youth group. We have rappers like French Montana, who is Moroccan, with
his song “Aint worried ‘bout nothin’ which uses the word ‘nigga’ 44 times throughout, with it precedent in the chorus. 2012 blockbuster hit, Django Unchained by Quentin Tarantino, came under attack about the amount of times the word was used. Now, we may all get a bit fired up when we hear a non-black person using this word, however, if black people have ‘taken’ this word and abused it, why is it a surprise when we hear someone from another race using it? Are we not in a sense allowing them to abuse it as well? Which makes me ask the question, are black people adding to this suppression of unconscious racism when using this word? “The hypocrisy of some black people who call each other nigga or use it as part of a joke makes no sense. They need to wake up! Sometimes out of ignorance we reinforce our own oppression,” states a black social worker from London. “Society used to be black and white, right or wrong. Now, it is grey. The n-word being used to define black people makes the two ideologies synonymous. The word is a symbol of how blurred the moral standard of society has become. Nowadays it’s okay to say it if you’re repeating a joke or singing a song lyric but it’s not okay if it’s just said in a conversation,” adds another youth.
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nigger illiterate thief wog monkey hoodlum dog da’quan
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Film director, Spike Lee spoke some contradicting words when he said, “I think black people have to be in control of their own image because film is a powerful medium. We can’t just sit back and let other people define our existence.” However, with never-ending films being released featuring all-black casts, are we subsequently stunting our own growth as a people? Are we framing our level of success in the small minority box? Ultimately producing a mindset of because “I am black I cannot reach the same heights as my white counterpart.” I understand where Lee is coming from but I also see how black people have become “elitists.” Wanting to be accepted by everyone but then excluding ourselves. We say no one can depict black people whether it is in film or another medium but then complain when the race isn’t included in mainstream society. Is this an illustration of our own self-loathing? After 180 years, we are still in a slavery mindset. Instead of focusing on reaching great heights, the focus is on the negative and ultimately breaks down our own ongoing legacies. “We cannot think of being acceptable to others until we have first proven acceptable to ourselves.” – Malcolm X Over the years many have tried the art of reclamation. Women have done it with the B-Word, Pakistani’s have done it with the shortening of their countries name and even white people have tried it. However, the difference is the “N-word stems way back from a deep era of oppression.” Hip Hop has played a major part in the retrieval of the n-word with artists like the N.W.A (Niggas
With Attitude), Tupac, Jay-Z, YG and films like ‘Boyz n the Hood,’ officiating the word in popular culture. The N-word hasn’t been the only indecent black connotation trying to be reclaimed. The world’s most opinionated rapper, Kanye West or what he likes to affiliate himself as, Yeezus (God help us all) tried to reclaim the confederate flag by stamping it all over his tour merchandise. He was also snapped wearing a jacket with the symbol on it outside retail chain, Barneys, stating that, “I made it my flag. It’s my flag now. Now what you going to do?” Well, the way I see it is, you cannot reclaim something that was not originally yours. Black cannot be defined as just a colour or even a shade. It is for some, including me a way of life. It is how I was born. Black cannot be defined by bass bumping beats on a hip hop track or the crispy succulent sensation of fried chicken (‘cause you know every black person loves chicken) or go through life running on BMT – black man time and it especially cannot be defined by the word, ‘Nigga.’ By using the word ‘nigga’ you are just reapplying the heavy iron shackles that bound our ancestors and resurrecting many buried years of persecution. Instead, of removing “ the kinks from your hair, remove them from your brain, and take some wise words from Compton’s very own answer to Shakespeare, Tupac. “Out of controversy comes conversation, out of conversation comes action.” It’s only through this we may be able to make a change.
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Yo u n g , B l a c k a n d . . . ?
Imagine being subjected to several stereotypes for being black. Imagine being subjected to several stereotypes for a being black male. Imagine being subjected to several stereotypes for being a gay black male.
Marvin Maddix confided with OurStory magazine
on what it’s like to be young, black and gay. He explained how it was not until he was 15 years old when he understood what it meant to be gay. Maddix spoke about the traumatic experience he had when he first came out. “My family was not supportive,” he says. His family disapproval caused him to leave home and stay at his friends. He reveals that his culture made his family disprove of his sexuality. Born in Jamaica, Maddix, the Editor of fashion glossary UK moved to London at the age 3. “My mother raised me alone, she had two jobs and to support me and my sisters. She has always pushed me to do what I wanted to do creatively,” he expresses. It was in high school that he received the most criticism, “I was definitely the most flamboyant child back then, I used to think I was a confident person,” he recalls. At the age of 17, Maddix got a sudden realisation that he was not as self-assured as he thought he was.
Being called gay was not something that offended him it was being called a ‘battyman’ that stuck with him throughout his teenage years. Despite it all Maddix feels that his sexuality does not hold him back, but being black has. “It was so hard coming out but after I accepted myself it was important to get to that point where I was comfortable.” Maddix admits that he is happy to embrace his sexuality, he expresses “your stronger than you think you are, you have to love yourself before you can love somebody else, I know it is the biggest cliché but its true. Go for what you want to and create your own opportunities.”
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artgoon
Although Christian Byfield has been creative ever since childhood he never thought being an artist could pay the bills, so he looked into becoming an engineer, or even working in retail. Byfield is an avid autodidact, absorbing what is going on around him and applying them to his world, “I look at people, but I see cartoons” he says. Fortunately he did not go on to work in retail or as an engineer. Today he creates inspiring illustrations under the name of ‘Artgoon365’. The name Artgoon365 came from his craft sways along the street art and urban vibe. The 27-year-old artist was born and raised in Nottingham, and came into illustration almost by accident. “This might sound crazy but one day I just woke up and started doing it. To be honest it just started off as a hobby, I used to draw doodles here and there but didn’t take it seriously” he says. Byfield never believed a career in art was feasible, but his passion for art led him onto studying art in college but ended up dropped out. While college may help some art students it is not right for all of us and Byfield did not feel that it helped him within his career as most of what he has achieved has been self-taught through YouTube tutorials and making his own mistakes. “College was not a move into the artist direction I felt that was right for me, doing live drawings that was really boring” and he craved challenges which he wasn’t getting from the more conventional education methods. Today, this young creative is already making waves in the industry by collaborating and creating artwork for artists such as OG, Giggs, Maybach Music, Krept and Konan, French Montana, Sneakbo and Stormzy. With inspiration out there in all forms this Byfield cites his two daughters as a huge influence in becoming more creative with his work, especially as he loves watching cartoons with them. Peppa Pig being their favourite! Although the 21st century cartoons are very different from those he
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watched himself as a child growing up. As an artist seeing the world as a cartoon project means that Byfield looks at things from different views and deems this one of the best parts of being an illustrator alongside the thought process and creativity. But like any job there are challenging aspects and “getting what you have in your mind down on paper” is what he most struggles with. He adds, “as any artist knows sometimes the picture you have in mind sometimes does not always come out exactly the way on you want on paper.” Another part of his career which challenging for this artist, is the matter of payment, which can be a bit of a sore spot with some people. He explains that “people don’t understand how time consuming it is, so they do not want to pay the price offered.” Challenges are exactly those and are obstacles which just need to be overcome and this business owner describes his work as “creative, full of imagination and eye catching”, typical of cartoon-esque art styles. When seeking inspiration, regardless of whether you are a songwriter, an artist or an interior designer we all have our favourite people within the industry and Christian’s favourite illustrators include ‘Funnytummy’ and ‘Hl3sz’ from Instagram. Due to his collaboration with musical artists it’s clear that this music lover has a strong connection to the musical world, especially those in the grime and hip hop spectrum. He explains, “before doing this I saw on Instagram pictures of fans drawing celebrities like Nicki Minaj, Rihanna and more. America has a big scene of illustrators but didn’t really see the same in Britain.” It was because of this that he started working on his page to share his love of the artists and musicians out there that he liked, and it wasn’t long before they began to recognize his work. A number of artists that he has worked with including Krept and Konan, Giggs and Stormzy have all reached out praising his work, and rapper The Game even reposted a piece of work that he created.
Looking forward this young artist has his sights set high and would love to work alongside artists such as Rihanna and Drake, although he does believe that “Hip-Hop is not the same as it used to be” as he would have loved to have the chance to collaborate with Biggie or Tupac if they were still around. The evolution of illustration and the digital industry in general has made a huge impact on artists’ careers, and this instance is no different. The move from print to digital has allowed artists to showcase their work on a new level across social media, especially Instagram, allowing artwork to get out there into the world to view far quicker and easier than print media would ever have allowed. With so many budding artists out there it can be hard to forge your own career and make a mark on the industry yet this upcoming artist “started doing this having no expectations so everyday is a blessing” to him. For anyone out there who loves art, and enjoys the thrill of drawing Byfield stands by the fact that you need to be focused and have all of your ideas together, but the correct equipment is also really important. Byfield predominantly uses four main components when creating his artwork, which includes his Mac computer, a tablet, a webcam and a copy of Adobe Illustrator Photoshop. Being a career driven individual, he states, “I would like to start a clothing line and have my work out there on a bigger scale such as TV programmes, billboards and outlets.” This young artist is a is a true inspiration showing that if you love something and work hard enough at it then you can achieve your goals and dreams. We are sure with his progress so far these ambitions are well within reach.
“I look at people, but I see cartoons.”
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Alternative
Art
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n many aspects of our everyday lives, art is usually confined to canvas. But now it is everywhere, we live and breathe in one massive canvas. From modern graffiti, to tattoos, to building sculptures, no longer we need to go to art gallery to see the beautiful visuals. Created and enjoyed by many, art communicates something that cannot be expressed with words. The different interpretation behind a painting becomes one of the many reasons why people all around the world can relate to it. The visuals and the hidden meanings of art do not change regardless of the language barrier. Artwork generally encompasses a diverse range of human emotions and ways of expression; this can include music, literature and film. But what is art? Art is very open and it is totally subjective. What one person may consider as beautiful painting may not feel the same to another person. Many artists in the mid 1980’s began to change the notion of artwork. Keith Haring, a graffiti artist used the city as his canvas to express the concept of birth, death, sexuality and war. Graffiti being another more modern form of artwork. “I have always wanted to make my artwork accessible for all to see. This is the one of the key reason why I love what I do. It allows me to travel around the world and live my imprint,” says Derty Roks, a London based graffiti artist. Graffiti has gained a lot of recognition from the art world, as being a legitimate form of art. Being so exposed graffiti has become more than just tagging someone’s name; it is a huge mural with a message behind it. Although some may consider spray-painted pieces nuisance and an eyesore, it is in most cases illegal. “I have been arrested for vandalism on numerous occasions. But I do not see art as a privilege for the rich and educated but for everybody,” adds Roks. Imaginably the most famous graffiti artist is English born, Banksy. While his street art combines stencilling elements and a lot of political and dark humour, his work is publicly visible on streets, bridges and walls throughout the world. In the contemporary UK scene, one of the most noticeable explosions in artwork is in tattoos. Apart of Brazen Britain, Channel 5 delves into the weird and wonderful world of extreme body art. The series, 4 Kids, 2 Cats and 2,000 Tattoos shares the stories of men and women who have transformed themselves with array of tattoos and piercings. Mathew Whelan, otherwise known as Britain’s most tattooed man to receive acceptance for his appearance, changed his name to ‘King of Inkland King Body Art The Extreme Ink-ite’ AKA Body art. He says, “for me it is a lifestyle. I have a personal belief in skinology and bodistry which is my adaptation of skin and story of the body.” Everybody gets tattoos for different reasons, some for memories, others for the love of a particular artwork. Just like any other form of art tattoos are innovative with a hidden meaning behind them. Ex footballer, Stephen Hendry is paving his way into the fashion industry. With half a million Instagram followers under his belt, Hendry is the first ever full-bodied tattooed model to be in high demand in the industry. Every year tens of thousands of people flock to tattoo conventions in cities such as London and Brighton to see showcases of some of the best talent. Tattoo artists even host their own TV shows with shows like LA Ink, London Ink and Tattoo’s After Dark bringing in a huge viewership. Tattoo artist draw walking artwork on people’s bodies. A professional tattoo artist, Gary Patrick explains, “ I have been tattooing for 15 years and the best part about my job is meeting a wide variety of people. They all have different stories to tell about the path that led them to get a tattoo.” Wherever art is exposed the meanings behind it and the emotions caught when creating it remains the same. Whether the art is on a canvas, sitting on the wall, etched onto an arm, spray painted to the side of a building or sculpted in a museum aesthetically it does not change. It is only the physical manner of the artwork that changes. Art is just as prevalent now as it ever has been. The only difference is that art is now enjoyed in different mediums.
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S.Q.U.A.D Brotherhood - no matter where you come from and no matter the situation, it’s who you have around that matters the most. Photography by Ezekiel Akinnewu Styling by Eddyline Sikuku Edited by Deborah Williams
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Daniel Downey
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Ayo Babatope
Myles Litchmore
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Moses Wainaina
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Cyrus Nderitu
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Jude Warnes
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Jesse Balfour
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Andre Abrahams
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Morris Ngobese Jude Warnes
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Zach Kirlew
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Modou Adams & Grant Sandiford
Modou Adams
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Morris Ngobese Ngobese Morris
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CHILLING WITH: Mandem On The Wall Illustration by Artgoon
OurStory magazine caught up with comedy trio Mandem on the Wall. Rewind back to 2011, when the trio first got together. They began by posting a series of comic sketches that took place whilst they were sitting on a wall, hence ‘Mandem on the Wall.’ The series features three main characters, Yungah Baker, played by 27-year-old Dee Kartier, Yungah Baby Tinie Winie, played by 21-year-old Percelle Ascot and Failia played by 21-year-old Jovian Wade, each with a different persona. Four years on these sketches on YouTube managed to get them to land a role on E4 new drama “Youngers”, we met them at the studio to talk about what they have been up to.
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Q: You once said that before creating Mandem on the Wall you looked at different shows to see what was working and what wasn’t working to create a super show, do you feel you have accomplished this?
comedians such as Jazzy, Tommy, Xpensive, Bigga and Big Tipper. We want to unite the comedy in the UK and progressively change entertainment altogether, by creating a whole list of entrainment that has never been seen before.
A: I feel like we are on the way and we have created something that is not yet out there. However, we do believe that there is always room for improvement. We know the characters and the world of the show so well but we still have a long way to go with it, to gage the kind of success that we want. Not the success in terms of what the audiences believe but the success we are trying to create creatively.
Joivan: We have a show on Representz Radio every Monday from 5-7pm. We are vigorously working on other platforms to exceed our radio talents and take them to bigger platforms. We want to take our representing skills to a commercial platform. We are in talks of producing big things, so stay tuned!!!
Q: Are there any new and upcoming projects you guys are currently working on?
Q: Percelle your currently working with Million Youth Media on a soon to be released Y Stop film, can you tell us more about that and how the opportunity came about?
A: Alongside doing Mandem on the Wall, we have set up own production company called ‘JPD3’ entertainment and with this company we wish to emulate the success of The Wayans Bros, in America. We aspire to create a legacy of TV shows, in doing that we have started receiving a few scripts and working with production companies on different TV shows. That is separate from the Mandem characters but still has the same chemistry and the excitement that we bring on screen. We cannot reveal any details just yet but we are working on about 3–4 different TV shows, which each have different characters, so stay tuned! In the film line we have recently been commissioned by Film London to do a short film. It goes by the name Trick or Treat. We are currently working on the last drafts of the scripts; we will be shooting that in the early summer. We are also working towards creating a foundation for black film that is away from guns, violence and knife crimes. We think essentially there is so much negative portrayal of black people when it comes to the film industry. As we all know Black people being normal, doing normal things does not sale very well in the film industry. We believe there’s nothing really out there that tackles the general lives of young black men. We are trying to create a platform that gives a voice to a generation of suppressed black males and females.
Percelle: I was approached online, via twitter by Fully Focused a company that specializes in working with young people. They touched on a project I watched before accepting this role, about riots. I thought it was executed quite well. I loved the ideas and the energy the young kids were giving. Y Stop is about ‘stopping and searching’ and I know that from my experiences and other people’s how much of a problem it is in todays’ society. Harassment from the police is usually due to your ethnic background, the environment that you live in and how you are dressed. I feel it is an imperative for young people to understand how to deal with police brutality in the best way possible. The film will be first available on Youtube and then we will hopefully take it to bigger commercials platforms. I play Rick on the project and people can go can view the film on YouTube on Fully Focused productions.
We are looking to launch a second series for Mandem on the Wall. We are working close with other
Dee: My advice is that you have to persevere and work hard. Look at your environment; the people you
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Q: Getting into the entertainment industry is not easy, what advice would you give to Black men who want to have a career in being an actor or a comedian? A: The advice we can give to anyone trying to make it in the industry is the same advice our parents gave to us. It is that one simple thing that ‘you are going to have to work twice as hard as the next person’ and we have always lived with that advice.
work with, your friends and ask yourself how are they helping you? As much as this is a career it is also a lifestyle. You have to look at yourself, in the character that you portray to the outside world and see how you can develop, grow and be successful. It all works in sync it all goes hand in hand; you’re character and your career. Jovian: What I can say is try to create as much as you can without the help of anyone else. Do enough, do not do enough till the point that they can say yes, do so much that they cannot say no! It is not about what colour you are, it is about setting yourself apart from everyone. You need to be able to stand ahead of everyone else, it is not about trying to compete with other black men, compete with everyone else! Make sure you are the BEST! Make sure you work the HARDEST! Make sure you do everything in your power, in order to get to the place you want to be. Q: How would you define success? A: Success is you being at the highest point of what you deem as successful. In whatever field it is do the best of to your abilities. With success it is important to not forget things like happiness and love. In our growth, we have been lucky enough to be in our brotherhood and achieve success together. It is a journey not a destination, everyday is a new day. Sometimes when you do fail, just learn from it. Look at what is the good component you can take from life because that’s going to help you learn, grow and develop. Realise things were meant to happen for a reason and you need to deicide what that reason is, because it has an important part of how you progress and move forward. Not everything is as bad as it looks, take the positives and grow with it. Q: Most of the work you guys do raises awareness; do you strive to be role models for your audience? A: We are privileged to be role models especially to young people.
want to accomplish? A: We are nowhere near to accomplishing our goals. This is just a stepping-stone, we just learning to crawl Mandem on the Wall is one of many thing we want to do. We have an entertainment company and we want to be able to create as much entrainment as possible on TV shows, movies, radio, and even theatre. Q: If you had the chance to work with anyone who would it be and why? Percelle: I would like to work with anyone who can challenge me creatively. I want to produce art that is my passion. So anyone with the same mentality as me, I would like to work with. Joivan: Will Smith, I just look up to the man. Dee: I meet people everyday that I watched and listened to. I am amazed by the fact that I am able to work with them. Anyone who is doing anything creative or making big moves, I am always excited to work with.
“Make sure you are the BEST! Make sure you work the HARDEST!”
Percelle: I just recently became an ACL ambassador. In my life I am trying to become a greater person in the hope of inspiring others. Q: You guys have done so much at such a young age is there anything more that you 77
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Emeka Egbuonu Break the negative cycle and help young people move forward.
OurStory magazine had the chance to sit down with the notable author Emeka Egbuonu, to discuss his upcoming book release Ambitions of the Deprived. The book depicts a heartfelt journey of four friends who grew up in a deprived area but they make a pact to stick together no matter circumstances.
Born in Nigeria and raised in Hackney, the 28-year old writer has always been on top of his game since his childhood, “I have always enjoyed writing, poetry in particular. My friends’ and I used to listen grime music, which is a combination of rhythm and poetry. I had the poetry but did not have the rhythm,” he laughs. “I left the rhythm to my friends and I stuck to pen and paper. After finishing university I stopped writing poetry. I was looking for something to motivate me to write and that was when I went into youth work. Seeing the problems we have in our community was enough for me to want to pick up my pen and paper and start writing.” In 2009, he started a Consequences program that birthed his first book Consequences. The idea behind the programme was to discuss issues that stopped young people from prospering. Egbuonu reveals, “when I started the program the first questions I asked was who was ambitious? A lot of people lacked ambition because they came from broken homes. Others fell into peer pressure. Being around the wrong people can influence your life massively,” he continued, adding, “many failed to see beyond the stereotypes and understand the social inequalities.” A problem shared is a problem solved, the program aims to elevate young people to realize there full potential. Egbuonu has continued to deliver greatness within his work. The title Ambitions of the Deprived is play on words that allude to the four friends who grew up in a deprived area but still hungry for success. “The title came while I was writing my first book,” explains the author. “Hackney was voted one
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of the worst places to live in at the time and we wanted to become more than a statistics. I did not want it to be a nonfictional story like my last book I wanted to tell a true story.” Egbuonu hopes that in writing the book it will inspire more young people especially young males to read more and make the right decisions. “Young people these days are easily misled and aspire to what they see on the streets. Which is short-term game, I am trying to sell ambition, that is further down the line and is obtained by working hard, getting the right information and knowledge.” He continues to express that his greatest achievements is writing the book. “Despite the negative voices, it keeps me motived to hear the book has inspired someone.” He continues by stating that, his current ventures are what he aims to do. In the near future he plans to start his own organization, and continue to keep writing and educating young people. This promising entrepreneur wants to maintain his level of happiness by guiding his younger siblings, providing food for his daughter and inspiring young people of the next generation. Released June 2015, Ambitions of the Deprived can be purchased off amazon, kindle, iBooks, independent bookshops and also be available as paperback.
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The Evolution of Grime Music Photograhed by Simon Wheatley
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“GRIME MUSIC IS GARAGE’S UNLOVED SIBLING AND HIP-HOPS DISTANT COUSIN HAS ALWAYS BEEN KNOWN AS THE BLACK SHEEP OF THE UK MUSIC INDUSTRY.”
I remember the impact that the Lethal B’s POW! had on grime music. Peaking in the charts at number 11 in 2004, the catchy beat, hard-hitting baseline and assertive lyrics gave an adrenaline rush to grimeheads everywhere. I remember how hyped the crowd would become by just hearing “it’s lethal the bizzle records.” Grime music. Garage’s unloved sibling and Hip-hops distant cousin has always been known as the black sheep of the UK music industry. The imperfection of Grime music has made it easy for many to use it as a mechanism to express themselves and others to be able to identify and relate to it. The grime phenomenon is pushed forward with platforms such as Link up TV, GRM Daily, SBTV and instagrime attracting more subscribers. Earlier this year at the Brit Awards, an international grime revolution was birthed in what was described as the ‘biggest moment for black culture.’ Kanye West performing his new track ‘All Day’ with a black-cladded crew that consisted of some of the UK’s finest grime artists like Skepta, Krept and Konan, Jammer, Novelist and Stormzy. Inspired by the Brixton riots, West definitely stirred the Brits into a different direction than ever before. West opened a door that was shut for a long time for the grime scene, it was in 2002 that grime artists’, So Solid Crew won the Brits. Actor Idris Elba showed his support by stating, “someone like Kanye - who is known worldwide for rap music - acknowledging that Britain, this little island, has really good wicked rappers just as good as him, at the Brits? That’s massive.”
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The Barbershop C u lt u r e Words & Photogrphy by Eddyline Sikuku
How barbershops create communities. Photographed by Ethan Mutero.
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Barbershops are a huge part within the black community but it took barbershops the better part of a century to reach such a place in the black community life. In the 19th century most black-owned barbershops served wealthy, white clients including businessmen and politicians. In the later part of the 19th century a younger generation entered the barbering and specialty shops were opened in black communities. Barbershops are an interracial part of the black community, they provide a central hub where men go to and socialize with like-minded individuals and what is said in the barbershop stays in the barbershop. Black men take pride in their hair as it depicts their individual style. Black men take as much care in their appearance as much as women. That is why barbershops play an important part in black guys lives. “Visiting the barber is just like women visiting the spas. The shops allows me to get pampered but still in a masculine environment,” says a second year graphic student, Ethan Muva. A visit to a barbershop for many is weekly, and sometimes a daily habit. Men do not just stop in for a haircut or a shave they stop to socialize. For many people barbering is not just a job; it is an art form, a culture and a lifestyle. “The connectedness in barbering between a client and a barber is a privilege,” says Jordan Pinto, a Barber in Oxford Circus. The Hip-Hop culture within the 1980s created a whole host of new styles. While some wanted to create their own variety of individual looks many opted for more natural hairstyles such as Afros, cornrows and dreadlocks. Black men inherently want to look different, they do not want to blend into the crowds of other men with the same hairstyle this is why various more unusual types of shaved heads and thick tight curls are fashionable with men within the race. British situational comedy TV show, Desmond, was
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one of the first black British television situation comedies to be set mainly within the work place. The main character, Desmond Ambrose, was the owner of a barbershop. Despite his friends and family occasionally making reference to his poor barbering skills, the show opted to showcase a hub of activities in the shop and to also portray a place of thriving social connections, reminiscent of how barbershops are deemed in the modern day. Catering to afro-hair has helped these barbershops succeed, the real secret to their longevity and their continued social support from the community is that for many, getting a haircut is more than an everyday commodities. It is an experience that builds communities and shapes actions within a person. Black men tend to also be loyal to their barber, a lot of them would return to the same family barber who have cut their hair since childhood, it is a way of showing loyalty. Once men feel comfortable and happy with a particular barber, it is likely that would continue to go there for life. The barber would know their history, their family and them as a person. This would have been a huge deciding factor for black men. “I have a close relationship with my barber, having moved houses I commute for an hour to go to the same one. I do not trust any other barber, I fear they can mess up my hair,” adds Muva. Pinto explains how the loyalty between the barber and the client is an instant gratification, “the social connectivity between the client and me shows the relationship you have with their personal life. The feeling being their regular barber to being friends is a social satisfaction knowing you have the each other’s trust.“ For men the barbershop is more than just a place to get your haircut. It is a place where stories and opinions are shared. It is a place where communities are created.
“I have a close relationship with my barber, having moved houses I commute for an hour to go to the same one. I do not trust any other barber, I fear they can mess up my hair.�
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Our[Hair]Story Depicting the styles of individuals through the lens of their personal hairstyles. Photographed by Eddyline Sikuku
“It is my story.�
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Yemi Davis
89
“It is my crown.”
Remi Black
90
91
92
“It is my originality.”
De’Jaun Johnson-Pedro
93
94
“It is my personality.”
Ethan Richards
95
96
“It is who I am.”
Ben Francis
97
“It is my identity.”
Ramario Chevoy
98
99
“It is my symbol of blackness.”
Gino Francis
100
101
STOCKIST Apple www.apple.com
Liberty www.liberty.co.uk
Asos www.asos.com
Marks & Spencer www.marksandspencer.com
Behringer www.behringer.com
Moleskine www.moleskine.com
Book Depository www.bookdepository.com
Makr www.makr.com
Boots www.boots.com
Not on the high street www.notonthehighstreet.com
Clarks www.clarks.co.uk
Nike www.nike.com
COS www.cosstores.com
Next www.next.co.uk
Daniel Wellington www.danielwellington.com Etsy www.etsy.com Frith Opticians www.frithsopticians.co.uk Glass Direct www.glassesdirect.co.uk Gold Smiths www.goldsmiths.co.uk GuitarGuitar www.guitarguitar.co.uk Harrods www.harrods.com John Lewis www.johnlewis.com
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Olympus www.olympus.co.uk Paperchase www.paperchase.co.uk Topman www.topman.com Urban Outfitters www.urbanoutfitters.com Ray-Ban www.ray-ban.com/uk Rokit www.rokit.co.uk The Goodhood Store www.goodhoodstore.com
Tu Clothing www.sainsburys-live-well-for-less.co.uk/ tu-clothing/ Selfridges www.selfridges.com Zara Man www.zara.com/uk
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£5
104