TRAVEL: BRAZIL

FEATURE: Manila reaches new heights

Brazil – vibrant, colourful, exciting, beautiful, modern, liberal, but above all... LGBTI friendly.

Sao Paulo is a huge city, the hub of an immense megametropolis with a population of almost 20 million people. Its vibrant and energetic urban core is characterised by an evergrowing maze of modern steel, concrete, and glass skyscrapers in newer hubs within São Paulo’s business centre, as well as in emergent outlying business districts. The great diversity of these modern buildings—many of which are truly striking— reflects a wide variety of architectural styles and materials. Glass towers of different hues mingle with impressive granite and marble-faced structures next to metal-sheathed ones. The city’s creatively eclectic appearance is comparable to that of any of the world’s great metropolitan centres. Over recent years, São Paulo’s social scene has been dramatically energised. Trendy restaurants and hip clubs have proliferated in the revitalised city centre. Beyond the new youth-oriented emphasis on food and fun, massive murals by accomplished street artists festoon buildings. The main gaybourhood is located in “Jardins.” The neighbourhood is located between Av. Paulista and R. Oscar Freire, an expensive and stylish designer shopping area. Here you will see same-sex couples walking hand-in-hand, swapping kisses, being openly gay as the city buzzes about them without a second glance. The relaxed atmosphere surrounding LGBTI people is not only an eye-opener for visitors but adds to the feeling that you are in the centre of a modern, sophisticated city.

Traffic is problematic as with any huge city and getting to and from the city’s main international airport, São Paulo-Guarulhos International Airport needs time – lots of it, so bear this in mind. Having visited São Paulo a number of times some flights have been made by the skin of my teeth even when I’ve allowed 2 hours to get to the airport. That is, of course, travelling by taxi. A modern, safe underground rail network also links the airport to the city centre.

Brazilians’ love of festivals and mega parties, and every June the city plays host to the biggest gay pride parade in the world. Up to 4 million people gather on Avenida Paulista for the event. But having said that, the gay scene in Sao Paulo is diversified, so there are plenty of options for the gay traveller, for every taste - from small pubs and cruising bars to very modern and stylish nightclubs, from cruisy rent-boy saunas to massive clubs to street parties, there is something to satisfy every LGBTI traveller, young, old, trendy, conservative, male, female or gender-fluid this city caters for every palate. Brazil is the only Portuguese speaking country in South America and in São Paulo, English is not widely spoken, but Google translate is brilliant and a vital communication tool.

Hotels are great value for money. Be sure to book with breakfast included – its sets you up for the day and saves money. Having said that, the city is known for its food and every street corner has a restaurant where you can indulge in local and international dishes – be sure to sample the national dish Calde Verde, a delicious kale and chorizo soup. Calde Mokoto (don’t ask) but try it – fabulous. Contre File (steak with 2 veg) is reliable and everywhere and the local fast-food delicacy Pastel, a deep-fried, stuffed pastry is a great nibble. This half-circle or rectangle-shaped miniature pie is stuffed with a variety of ingredients, most commonly, shredded chicken, ground beef, mozzarella, or small shrimps.

As with any large city there are museums, historic churches, markets etc., and São Paulo is no different. The São Paulo Museum of Art, known locally as MASP, on Av. Paulista is worth a mention as is the São Paulo Metropolitan Cathedral known locally as the Catedral da Sé. The cathedral which has a total capacity for 8,000 people was completed in 1967 and is dominated by the two towers which stand 92 meters high.

For sports fans, in this soccer-mad country, there is a museum dedicated to the “beautiful game.” This fantastic museum provides insight and information on the game and how it occupies a special place in the heart of all Brazilians. The Bandeiras Monument is a magnificent work by Brazilian sculptor Victor Brecheret, with imposing heroic figures. An obelisk commemorates those who died in 1932 in the struggle for a new constitution. Home to the biggest Japanese population outside of Japan a visit to the Japanese Pavilion which dates from 1954 and has exhibits of sculptures, Samurai clothing, pottery, and other treasures is worthwhile. An absolute must see is the Mercado Municipal de São Paulo (Municipal Market), a vast indoor market where traders sell fresh fish, meat, an mind-blowing array of cheeses, olives and fresh fruit, wonderfully displayed with endless sampling opportunities. Wander around and have lunch at one of the many restaurants. For shopaholics looking for a designerlabelled bargain, a short walk from the market to Rua 25 Marco, you’ll find a busy street-market with hawkers, shops, street stalls selling anything from clothing to electrical items. Fun, feverish and bargain heaven but exhausting! Of course, no visit to Brazil is complete without a visit to the country’s best know and possibly the world’s most beautiful city – Rio de Janeiro. A short, one-hours-flight from Sao Paulo’s Congonhas Airport. Rio, which hosted the Olympic Games in 2016 needs no introduction. The city has been a world destination for decades. Famous for its Copacabana beach front and the huge Christ the Redeemer statue which towers over the city, the annual glittering Rio Carnival and the lush tropical vegetation with miles of sun-drenched sandy beaches, lined by seemingly endless hotels and holiday apartments, have made the city a magnet for international holiday makers for years. Stroll along the Copa, sip Caipirinhas, Brazil’s national cocktail, at one of the beachfront cafes. Shop for colourful sarongs, swimwear and t-shirts from beach hawkers and stall holders at the local street market … listen to Carioca bands and immerse yourself into the vibe that makes Rio such a unique and fun holiday destination. If the commercial nature of the Copacabana is not for you, head to the famous Ipanema, just a stone’s

throw from the Copa. Here you will find a more sophisticated feel and Ipanema is home to the city’s most well-known gay beaches, filled with the hottest blokes – speedo-style swimwear is mandatory as is the brownest of tans and toned bodies. Get a beach umbrella, chair and Caprivodka from Sonia or The Hot Boys, find a great spot and settle in for hours of eye candy, warm water, and sunshine – don’t forget your sunscreen! Feast on prawns and lobster from your shaded spot whilst you sip exotic fruity cocktails… life will not get better. Rio is very laid back. LGBT travellers are welcomed everywhere. The city’s main aim is to ensure that everyone has a good time regardless of the type of holiday you’re looking for. If its sun and sea – Rio’s beaches rank with the best in the world. If you’re a bargain shopper, head to Saara on Rua da Alfandega. Be warned though it’s a long taxi ride which will quickly eat up the money saved on the bargains. Take the Metro – its cheap, clean and easy to navigate. Your stop is Uruguai and you’ll emerge in to a sprawling shopping area, both undercover and street vendors. Here you will find an amazing range of clothing, electrical and phone shops, food stalls and restaurants, in fact anything you might desire. If you are a more discerning shopper, then there are numerous upmarket shopping malls with all the best designer outlets – Le Blon shopping centre is a great mall situated in the swanky Le Blon area, a stones throw from Ipanema. For LGBT visitors to the city, Rio’s gay scene is not only huge but as one of the world’s most renowned holiday destinations, its famous. There are dance clubs, bars, saunas, cruise clubs, street parties and LGBT events all year round. The scene is vibrant and colourful so check out the many online gay guides and have the time of your life. A word of advice is to not take that drop dead gorgeous hunk you met on the beach back to your hotel. Rio has hotels where rooms are let by the hour especially for these situations. Called “Somente Cavalheiros” meaning “men only” these small hotels are clean and a safer alternative to your hotel, so leave your valuables behind and have fun! Tô Nem Aí

Farme de Amoedo in Ipanema is Rio’s main LGBT street and has the greatest concentration of gay-friendly bars in the city, of which Tô Nem Aí is one of the most popular. It is a perfect place to stop after the beach or go later in the evening to have drinks — or to get the night started. The Week is Rio’s best LGBT downtown venue/club and the place to be on a Saturday night (the only day it’s open). Once inside, throw yourself at the two dance floors, where up to 2,000 people, mostly men, groove to pop and electronic beats. Register on the website to get a discount on your entrance fee and get ready to party the night away. Brazil is without doubt one of the best LGBT travel destinations. Life here is laid back, with tolerant attitudes and laws. It’s like an anything goes kind of destination. The people are friendly, gorgeous and relaxed. Regardless of the type of holiday you’re looking for, be it shopping, cultural, beach holiday, glamorous or shoe-string this country has it all, from the sophistication and big city rat-race atmosphere of São Paulo to the laid back, “tomorrow is another day” vibe of Rio de Janeiro a holiday in Brazil will have you coming back to explore more. Getting there … You can fly from either Cape Town or Johannesburg on TAAG Angola Airlines. The flight goes via Luanda to São Paulo and is the quickest route from South Africa. It is also great value for money with good connections through Luanda. Aircraft are clean and new. Luanda airport is not the most comfortable stop over with few facilities. But for the money and time saving it’s worth the momentary discomfort … TAAG is your best option. The check-in staff in South Africa and São Paulo are efficient, friendly, and very helpful – a pleasure to deal with. There are other airlines advertising good fares, and the airport transits are in world class airports, but bear in mind, flying times on Middle Eastern carriers such as Qatar, Emirates or Turkish are a lot longer, making the trip a bit of a journey. Ethiopian also have good fares via Addis Ababa but again the flight is quite long and the in-transit experience is not the best.