LEADING THE BIRDS

THERE ARE THREE main options for obtaining the correct lead on your target bird. The “sustained lead” method requires swinging the muzzle in front of the bird and maintaining a calculated distance ahead of it, both when you pull the trigger and, importantly, after you make the shot.

The “swing-through” method, on the other hand, entails starting with the muzzle behind the bird, then pushing it toward the front of the bird and pulling the trigger just as the muzzle swings past the target. You then continue with the followthrough swing at the same speed.

“Spot-shooting,” meanwhile, is simply pointing your shotgun to a stationary point ahead of the bird and pulling the trigger. This requires accurately judging the speed and distance of the bird, which takes a lot of experience, but it’s the fastest of these three primary techniques. Which is best method? The fact is, one approach isn’t inherently better than the others, and many experienced shotgunners use all three, depending on what the situation calls for. That said, most top wingshooters prefer the sustained lead, which is the method generally taught at shooting schools.

Still other competent shooters actually prefer a version of the sustained lead that incorporates aspects of the swing-through method. That is, they start with their muzzle behind the bird, push it out ahead, then find and hold a sustained lead, continuing with it after they’ve pulled the trigger. To find which lead works best for you, experiment and practise at a clays range whenever you can.

As for determining how much lead is required, you can do the math for yourself. For example, if your shot travels at 1,400 feet per second and the mallard you’re trying to shoot is 40 yards away flying at 35 miles an hour in a crossing pattern, you need to lead it by about four and a half feet. A mallard is only about 18 inches long, so you don’t have to under-lead it by much to suffer a complete miss or to see a waft of tail feathers floating down. And remember, that four-and-ahalf-foot lead only holds true if you maintain the lead through the follow-through; if you stop your barrel movement as you squeeze the trigger, four and a half feet won’t be enough. The math may be a little confusing, but the shooting fundamentals are decidedly not. They just take practice.

Making The Shot

WHEN SHOOTING, KEEP both eyes open and focus on the bird, not on your barrel or bead. Remember, this an exercise in pointing, not aiming. When you feel you have the correct lead, pull the trigger and concentrate on following through by continuing to swing. Not enough follow-through is one of the main reasons hunters shoot behind targets, even when their lead was perfect. Insufficient followthrough can also contribute to a host of other problems when, after successive misses, you start adjusting your form.

Length of pull

Finding The Fit

GENERALLY SPEAKING, YOU can pick up any scoped rifle and shoot it reasonably well if it’s properly sightedin, but the same can’t be said for shotguns. If a shotgun doesn’t fit well, it simply won’t point where you’re looking. Many international hunters will tell you that when they travel to a foreign destination to hunt big game, they’ll borrow a rifle from the outfitter. When they travel to wingshoot, however, they say the benefits of taking their own shotgun outweigh the headaches of travelling with firearms. The reason? Fit.

In his 1949 classic The Shotgun

Book, renowned American outdoor writer Jack O’Connor sums it up best: “A well-fitting gun doesn’t make a crack shot out of a dub, a poor fit doesn’t make a dub out of a slicker, but everyone does his best shooting with a gun stock that fits.” In short, fit is all about ensuring your shotgun shoots where you’re looking, with the buttstock functioning to keep your eyes in the proper position.

To determine if your gun fits you well, go to a range and shoot at a paper target from about 30 metres with the choke/load combination you most frequently use. Shoot first from a solid rest, then snap-shoot as you would in an actual hunting situation. What you discover may surprise you. Even from a dead rest, your shotgun may not shoot where you’re looking, something that’s often exacerbated when you quickly shoot off-hand. This can be a gun problem, but most often it’s a fit issue.

There are three primary measurements to consider when assessing a proper stock fit. First there’s length of pull (LOP), which is the distance from the middle of the butt pad to the middle of the trigger. If it’s too long, you’ll catch your

Fine Tuning Consistent

SHOOTING IN the field is a learned skill requiring preparation and practice. Here are some little things to keep in mind to help overcome the big problems.

» FOCUS ON THE bird’s head when shooting. If you look at the entire bird, you’ll invariably shoot with insufficient lead. The more precise your target, the better you’ll shoot—every time.

» DON’T PEEK! AFTER shooting behind birds, shooting over top of them is the most common problem. It’s a result of not keeping your head down on the stock until you’ve finished following through.

» KEEP BOTH EYES open. Many shotgunners have a tendency to close one eye, as when aiming a gun under your armpit or on your clothing; if it’s too short, you’ll often experience greater felt recoil, with your hand bumping your nose when you touch off.

Next is drop at comb (DAC), which is the distance from the line of sight, or rib, down to the comb of the stock. Too much DAC and your eye will be too low when you mount the gun, resulting in your shot charge flying below the target; if there’s too little, your charge will be above the target.

Finally, drop at heel (DAH) is the distance from the line of sight to the heel of the buttstock. This is less important than DAC, as most of us can comfortably accommodate a wide range of DAH, but too much can lead to increased felt recoil.

Another factor that influences fit is what’s known as “cast,” which is a lateral bend in the stock designed to centre your dominant eye over the rib or barrel. Right-handed shooters need “cast off,” a bend to the right; southpaws require “cast on,” a bend to the left. Most American-designed shotguns are manufactured with little or no cast, while European shotguns often have notable cast. With no cast, it’s common for a right-handed shooter’s pattern to be centred to the left of where he or she is looking.

So, what should your LOP, DAC, DAH and cast measurements be? There’s no easy answer. Modern manufacturers have addressed the problem by designing today’s smoothbores with stock dimensions designed for the average shooter. Unfortunately, the manufacturers have different opinions as to what constitutes average, and few of us are built average in any case.

Fortunately, minor adjustments to LOP, DAC, DAH can be made with the shims conveniently provided with many of today’s shotguns. If you can afford it, you can also have a shotgun customfitted for you, with stock alterations designed to bring out the best in your shooting. My best advice on achieving the proper fit, however, is to shoot as many shotguns as you can until you find the one that feels—and shoots—best for you. OC

ALSO SEE PAGE 30 FOR HUNTING EDI- rifle. Aiming a shotgun leads to stopping your swing, however, mak ing you shoot behind your target.

» PICK OUT A single bird from the flock and shoot it. Whether you’re hunting ducks or Hungarian partridge, don’t shoot into the flock, as there’s typically a lot more open space there than you’d think. The only path to a double starts with dropping the first bird.

» CAN’T FIGURE OUT the proper lead? Start by lengthening your lead, especially with crossing birds, which are difficult to over-lead.

» PRACTISE! WINGSHOOTING SKILLS improve with time spent at the sporting clays, skeet or trap range. Even hand-thrown clays at camp can help you improve.