In Cider Japan

A Glass Half Full (OF CIDER) JAPAN IN CIDER

BY LEE REEVE

Cider, or rather hard cider—the alcoholic version—has enjoyed a steady climb in popularity and accessibility in Japan the last few years. Despite the excessive challenges that Covid-19 has placed on the food and beverage industry, the number of domestic cider makers as well as bars and bottle shops offering selections of cider continues to grow.

One of the biggest challenges living in Japan during the state of emergencies has been refraining from going out— particularly to places serving alcohol. So what to do, especially now that autumn is upon us, harvest time and one of the best seasons to travel? Without knowing what the future holds before this issue reaches readers, Iet's be hopeful and look at several cider-related venues worth visiting once you are able to go.

CIDERNAUT

Cidernaut is located in Shibuya's Kamiyacho District, just a ten-minute walk from Shibuya Station. It boasts 12 taps, ten of them dedicated to cider (the other two beer). In addition to an impressive list of both domestic and imported ciders, you will also find a decent range of food, from various homemade bagel sandwiches to buffalo wings, chicken and chips.

Cidernaut is spacious, the staff can communicate in English and there are plenty of other places to explore nearby. It is open daily from lunch until closing time, and highly recommended if you're in the mood for good food and cider. Web:

facebook.com/cidernaut

Kitazawa Konishi KITAZAWA KONISHI

You can find bottle shop Kitazawa Konishi in Shimokitazawa, the neighborhood famous for its laid-back vibes and bohemian cool. Locally referred to as “Shimokita,” it's often considered the city's hippest suburb with its narrow winding streets dotted with eclectic cafés, second-hand clothing stores, vintage record shops, miscellaneous art galleries, live houses and bars.

Opened in 1931, Kitazawa Konishi is a mecca for those looking to get their hands on hard-to-find fresh imported craft cider and beer. The husband-and-wife owners are thoroughly knowledgeable about the brands they carry and genuinely enjoy sharing what they know with customers. Kitazawa Konishi is open every day except Tuesdays. Web: kitazawakonishi.com

SANITY BEER

Of the three shops mentioned, Sanity Beer is the newest, having opened their doors in September in Sangenjaya. This area in Setagaya-ku is home to a plethora of restaurants, bars, and cafés. Just a hop, skip and jump from Sangenjaya Station on the Den-en-toshi Line, Sanity Beer currently offers ten taps, with at least one for cider, and a refrigerator-lined wall of drinkable goodies, one section being exclusively cider options.

Clean, chic, and clever in concept, it's no wonder Sanity Beer is quickly becoming the latest must-go-to. Web:

facebook.com/sanity.beer JAPAN CIDER MARKET

If the time’s not right to get out or you just prefer staying at home, fear not, simply order from Japan Cider Market, the country’s first online shop specializing in the highest quality imported ciders from Australia, UK and USA. In addition to more than reasonable shipping prices, their website is fully functional in English and Japanese and orders are, in most cases, delivered the next day. Web:

japancidermarket.com ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Lee Reeve is an international cider consultant and the publisher of inCiderJapan, Asia’s first and only bilingual magazine dedicated to all things cider. He frequently speaks at worldwide cider events on the subject of Japan’s cider history, current scene, and growing industry. He is also an importer and distributor of world-renowned ciders.

BY GARDNER ROBINSON The Samurai Trails of Mt. Madarao The Samurai Trails of Mt. Madarao

If Takeda Shingen and Uesugi Kenshin were alive today, there’s a good chance they would be chasing each other around Mt. Madarao on double suspension mountain bikes with fat, stubby tires. Kenshin was one of the most famous daimyo during the Sengoku Period (1467-1615)— a turbulent era marked by social and political upheaval and civil war. His battles for control of Shinano Province (today’s Nagano Prefecture) with Shingen, another great samurai at the time, were legendary. More recently, another tribe of (weekend) warriors are kicking up dirt on these ancient trails.

Uesugi Kenshin was from Echigo (modern-day Niigata) and used the trails in and around Mt. Madarao to cross the Sekida Mountains into Nagano for his epic battles against Takeda Shingen upon the plains of Kawanakajima. Neither of these warlords would ultimately claim a clear victory, but the ferocity and strategic warfare romanticized in this series of battles have become immortalized in Japanese literature and ukiyoe (woodblock prints).

The historic trails in the Sekida Mountains around Mt. Madarao were not only a conduit for warfare; they were also the arteries that carried the life of the local people, transporting commerce and culture: dried fish, salt, gold, medicine and Buddhism.

While this patchwork of well-connected paths were used for centuries by villagers and battlehardened samurai, it wasn’t until recently some of these ancient trails were uncovered and given new life by another tribe of (weekend) warriors— mountain bikers. "I was exploring some trails with friends below our lodge and discovered some old rice fields, abandoned buildings—including a school, says long-time Madarao resident Mark Stahnke, who runs Madarao Mountain Lodge with his wife Mayuko and daughter Hana.

“We could see they went all the way up to near our lodge, so we started clearing the trail and riding it. One day I was riding alone and ran into an old farmer who was as surprised to see me as I was him. We chatted and he told me about the history of an abandoned village called Kutsu which was on an old tourist road up to Madarao.”

Until the establishment of Madarao Ski Resort in 1972, the grassland in Madarao was used to raise cattle and the trails were perfect for bringing the cows up to the summer pastures. One of the best mountain bike trails is known as the “Cow Trail.” Its winding curves formed by the movement of the cows uphill are now perfect berms for bikers descending down the hill to Iiyama. The Cow Trail was recently used in the Maduro MTB event. "The trail also goes through another old village called Bundo, which was home to Madarao Sympathique Ski Resort until it closed in 2012,” Mark continues. “We took some bottles of sake down to locals to ask permission to use the trails. The kucho (head of the village) told us it was one of the first resorts in Japan; it even hosted the National Championships nearly a century ago.”

"Engage in combat fully determined to die and you will be alive; wish to survive in the battle and you will surely meet death."—Uesugi Kenshin

Woodblock print by Utagawa Hiroshige depicting The Battle of Kawanakajima (circa 1560); Shingen on the left and Kenshin on the right.

While Mark and other Madarao locals uncovered, cleared and got permission to ride trails like The Cow Trail and Yama no Kami Trail, there are other ancient paths that follow gravel roads, forestry roads and fire roads that are still in use and maintained. The Hokkoku Kaido old road that connected Tokyo to the gold mines on Sado Island during the Edo Period goes past the foot of Mt. Madarao on the Lake Nojiri side. The Gunpei Kaido, a trail that goes right through the middle of Madarao Mountain Ski Resort, was an old path used for transporting charcoal down the valley. It allowed the mountain people to forge a living in the harsh landscape.

In the eighteenth century, some commercially minded locals created an Edo-era version of a holiday resort in the wetlands in the middle of Madarao, now known as Numanohara. Known as Ogiwara-juku, this happening little hamlet peaked at around 75 houses from 1716 to 1735, and was no doubt a convivial stopover for travelers between Nagano and the coast. It was the beginning of tourism in the area.

Madarao’s forest trails and gravel roads have long been a place for adventure. Shin Kano, who runs the Giro Gravel Park, wanted to bring a bit more to the community with the Grinduro. This unique event is part gravel-road race, part mountain-bike-style enduro, and covers everything from smooth pavement, gravel and single track in four timed segments. Grinduro is billed as a celebration of cycling with an emphasis on fun, with live music, camping and a festival atmosphere to go along with the race. The 2021 Grinduro has been re-scheduled for 2022 and a summer version of the event called the “Maduro" will be back next year when travel restrictions are expected to be lifted. Kano says the future goal is to make the Northern Nagano area, along with Nozawa Onsen and Hakuba, a real mountain biking destination for travelers in Asia.

This network of old roads and trails, Madarao resort’s location near the top of the mountain, and the local community working together has created a natural formula for a topnotch mountain biking destination. Grab your bike, muster up some of that Shinano warrior-poet spirit and rediscover the old roads of Madarao for yourself.

"Knowledge is not power, it is only potential. Applying that knowledge is power. Understanding why and when to apply that knowledge is wisdom.”—Takeda Shingen

Photo by Yoshihiro Matsuzawa

ESSENTIAL INFO

GETTING THERE

From Tokyo take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Iiyama Station (110 minutes). Madarao Kogen is a 20-minute drive from JR Iiyama Station and visitors can put bikes on the bus to Madarao for ¥500. By car, it is 20 minutes from the Toyota-Iiyama IC on the Joshinetsu Expressway. Nozawa Onsen is just 40 minutes up the road and makes for a great day trip or combined long weekend of mountain biking and hot springs.

BEST TIME TO RIDE

May until November although keep an eye on the weather during the rainy season (mid-June to early July) and typhoon season in late summer.

RENTALS

Yama No Ie Information Center in Madarao has e-bikes and mountain bikes for rent. Giro Gravel Bike Park at Madarao Mountain Resort has mountain bike rentals (madarao.jp/ gravelbikepark) and the Shinetsu Shizenkyo Activity Centre at Iiyama Station has some great bike rental options including e-bikes (shinetsuactivity.jp).

ACCOMMODATION

Madarao Mountain Lodge (Web: madaraoskilodge.com) is located near the top of the Cow Trail and makes a great base for exploring the area. They can help organize logistics for groups and other accommodation can be found at madaraomountainresort.com. There is also great campground at the resort (madarao.jp/camp).

EVENTS

Maduro (Summer): diatechproducts.

com/grinduro/maduro.html

Grinduro (Autumn): grinduro.com/

japan.php TOURS

Shinano Discovery Tours offers half-day e-bike tours on the Hokkoku Kaido Old Road for ¥5,500. Details at shinanodiscovery.com.

Madarao's Big 10 trails

A GUIDE TO MOUNTAIN BIKING MADARAO'S MAIN TRAILS

The Madarao Big Ten Trails are a mix of gravel roads, forest roads and single track trails. They vary in difficulty and fitness level so that there is something for people of all cycling levels.

#1 Lake Nojiri Back Door

Lake Nojiri Back Door, an intermediate ride mainly on gravel roads, winds around the back of Mt. Madarao and finishes at the clear waters of Lake Nojiri—perfect for a post-ride swim, SUP or canoe ride on those hot summer days. TRAIL GRADE: 3 DISTANCE: 18 km. COURSE TYPE: Graveller ESTIMATED TIME: 2 hours ELEVATION GAIN: 394 meters

#2 Furusato Road

Furusato Road is an intermediate level trail that is mainly gravel down through Wakui and Nagata villages. It passes Oike Pond and Madarao-noYu hot springs. Wakui Village has three great soba restaurants. Nagata Village is the birthplace of one of Japan's most famous song writers who penned “Furusato.” The trail ends at a temple on a river that is featured in his song. TRAIL GRADE: 3 DISTANCE: 19 km. COURSE TYPE: Graveller ESTIMATED TIME: 2 hours ELEVATION GAIN: 288 meters #3 Bear Valley

The Bear Valley trail is an intermediate-level gravel downhill trail that goes through logging tracks and rice fields that are predominantly off road. The trail ends in Iiyama City, where you can go for lunch at a local restaurant after the ride. TRAIL GRADE: 3 DISTANCE: 13 km. COURSE TYPE: Graveller ESTIMATED TIME: 1.5 hours ELEVATION GAIN: 75 meters

#4 Yama No Kami Downhill

Yama No Kami Downhill follows a tight ridge down through a valley traditionally used for sumiyaki (charcoal making). It passes an ancient shrine locally known as "Yama no Kami” (God of the Mountain). It is an advanced trail with extensive single track and steep sections. For experienced riders only; a guide is recommended. TRAIL GRADE: 6 DISTANCE: 9 km. COURSE TYPE: Downhill ESTIMATED TIME: 2 hours ELEVATION GAIN: 450 meters #5 The Cow Trail

The Cow Trail was the old road used to bring cows up to graze on the summer grass of Madarao Kogen. It has excellent natural berms formed by the movement of the cows up the hill. It is an advanced trail with extensive single track and steep sections. A guide is recommended and experienced riders only. TRAIL GRADE: 5 DISTANCE: 3 km. COURSE TYPE: Downhill ESTIMATED TIME: 1 hour ELEVATION GAIN: 200 meters

#6 The Eight Monks Path

Named after the legendary Eight Monks of Madarao or “Hachibozuka,” this is a beginner-level ride that is an easy introduction to downhill mountain biking and great for families. It follows the old Bundo Road down the hill along the scenic Kiyo River Valley. The ride finishes in Iiyama. TRAIL GRADE: 2 DISTANCE: 11 km. COURSE TYPE: Graveller ESTIMATED TIME: 1 hour ELEVATION GAIN: 19 meters

Grinduro Japan

#7 The Nozomi Grinder

This is a tough, advanced gravel and single-track ride designed for hill climbers (and great on an e-bike) that visits beautiful Lake Nozomi before going down towards Okawa Village then straight back up the hill again. A guide is recommended and experienced riders only. TRAIL GRADE: 4 DISTANCE: 10 km. COURSE TYPE: Climber/Graveller ESTIMATED TIME: 2 hours ELEVATION GAIN: 400 meters

#8 Okawa Shrine Run

This is an intermediate ride that stays predominantly on gravel agricultural roads. The route is mostly downhill and goes past Lake Nozomi, Mt. Kenashi and the beautiful little village of Okawa and its shrine. The ride ends in Iiyama. TRAIL GRADE: 3 DISTANCE: 20 km. COURSE TYPE: Graveller ESTIMATED TIME: 2.5 hours ELEVATION GAIN: 180 meters #9 Tarumoto Circle

This ride starts at Yama No Ie Information Center, goes out to the Numanohara wetlands, down to Tarumoto Village and then back up to Yama No Ie via Akaike Pond. Tarumoto was an old onsen village on Mt. Madarao, but is now largely abandoned. It is a combination of gravel as well as largely unused bitumen back roads. It is a fun ride down and a long grind back up. This is a solid workout for advanced hill climbers or e-bikers. TRAIL GRADE: 4 DISTANCE: 23 km. COURSE TYPE: Climber ESTIMATED TIME: 3 hours ELEVATION GAIN: 643 meters #10 Giro Gravel Bike Park

The Giro Gravel Bike Park at Madarao Ski Resort is run by the guys at Grinduro Japan. The park is designed with gravel bikes in mind with a system of courses within the ski resort suitable for families and beginner riders. It is an easy and safe introduction to off-road riding and is currently in the first stage of construction with plans to develop considerably over the next tow years. As it is within the ski resort, it costs ¥1,800 for adults and ¥400 for children. Rental bikes are also available. Visit madarao. jp/gravelbikepark for details.

For updated information, GPS Maps, trail type and grade details, visit Madarao Big Ten Trails at

madaraomountainresort.com/

madarao-big-ten-mtb-trails.html. v

They say that Gunma climbers are a bit special…brave, made of tougher stuff than most. After all, it was climbers from the Gunma Mountaineering Association that made the first winter ascent of the Southwest face of Mt Everest back in 1993.

The conglomerate spires of the 1,103-meter Mt. Myougi might be a mere footnote in Gunma climbing history compared to that towering accomplishment, but it’s no less true that the folk who first approached, with a view to climbing on them, were made of stern stuff.

Dominating the view from the car window on the Joshinetsu Expressway around the MatsuidaMyougi interchange ( 松井田妙義 ), the twin ridgelines of Omote-Myougi and Ura-Myougi look like an archetypal Chinese landscape painting: sheer faces, jagged spires, trees clinging in isolation to crumbling summits. It’s inspiring stuff, and in terms of pure adventure, it’s probably the most bang for your buck that hikers can find in the Kanto area.

The two main ridgelines form two sides of an ancient volcanic caldera that has long-since collapsed. The hiking trails that thread their way along their crests appear as dotted lines on the hiking maps; a sure sign of excitement to come. There are long chains on all the steeper blank sections, without which these summits would be the exclusive preserve of, well, Gunma climbers!

For the trails on the southern Omote-Myougi, the michi-no-eki ( 道の駅 or roadside station), on Route 196, is a good place to base yourself, with easy access to the nearby onsen (with rotenburo) and the famous Myougi Shrine. And there are gentler, less vertiginous trails available at the midway level up the mountain too, for those with less of a head for heights.

For the more adventurous among you, I recommend the traverse of the Ura-Myougi Ridgeline. The highlight of the day will undoubtedly be the ascent of the slightly overhanging chains to the top of the famous Chōsu-no-kashira ( 丁須ノ 頭). Like the Obelisk on Yamanashi’s Jizo-ga-take or the Tengu on the east side of Akadake, this large hammer-shaped rock is clearly visible from the expressway and train lines below, making for endless satisfaction every time you pass by the area.

As a cautionary note, I’d advise anybody wanting to hike or climb on Myougi to wear a helmet, and crucially, make sure you have a pair of fingerless cycling gloves or something similar. It gets sweaty in summer and autumn at these low elevations, and people have been known to slip off the chains, so leave your pride at home and take the standard precautions.

For the rock-climbers among you, don’t overlook the wonderful six-pitch “Migi-kante” route on the Kido Wall ( 木戸壁右カンテルート ) of Ura-Myougi. It may only get a difficulty rating of 5.7, but as you get to know the rock of Mt Myougi you’ll quickly understand the world of adventure that can be contained within such a modest grade.

On a final note, the trees on Mt Myougi are not the usual cedar monoculture that Tokyo inhabitants are used to. In the autumn kouyou season the flanks of Myougi explode in reds, browns and yellows. It’s the perfect time of the year to explore Kanto’s finest mountain! v

TONY'S LATEST BOOK

If you’ve always wanted to climb a classic alpine route in Japan, but didn’t know where to start, check out Tony’s latest book, available in the the Amazon store, “10 Classic Alpine Climbs of Japan (Volume 2)”. The comprehensive book contains: • Full route descriptions, including transportation and access, for some of the best alpine climbs in the country. • Route maps, topos and lots of photos to help with route-finding • Additional essays on Japanese maps and GPS apps, climbing grades in Japan, the climbing seasons here, rescue insurance and much more.

Oki Beach Rogier Uitenboogaart in his washi studio

Washi & Washi & Omotenashi Omotenashi

IN KOCHI

BY RIE MIYOSHI

Shikoku Karst

Kochi Prefecture looks like a horseshoe, stretching along the southern part of Shikoku Island. It is home to the “Ascetic Training” portion (temples 24-39) of the famous 88-temple pilgrimage called the Shikoku Henro. However, beyond these scenes of misty mountains and travelers walking ancient paths sticks-in-hand, Kochi has made a name for itself among outdoor enthusiasts who come to explore the mountains, valleys and subtropical beaches and waters.

The beauty of the region has attracted a growing number of craftsmen and lodge owners that have helped rejuvenate less-visited areas and are passionate about showcasing the hidden secrets of Kochi’s outdoors, rich culture and history. Kamikoya immerses visitors in the centuries-old local tradition of washi paper making while staying at a unique accommodation surrounded by forest land used to grow the plants for beautiful washi designs on display throughout the property. Kaiyu is a familyrun, oceanside getaway with a focus on natural remedies, locally sourced food, hospitality and adventures.

KAMIKOYA

Kamikoya, in the mountainous town of Yusuhara, is a modest two-story wooden house and workshop overlooking a hamlet. Long-time resident and nationally acclaimed washi artist Rogier Uitenboogaart creates here. He originally studied book binding back in his home country of the Netherlands, and discovered washi (traditional Japanese paper) during the process. The 66-year-old Dutch artist made his way to Japan forty years ago to learn more about washi and never left.

Washi has a nearly 1,500-year-old history in Japan. It was used widely in everyday life until the arrival of mass-produced, machine-made Western paper in the 20th century. Today, washi is more art than commodity with a select few artists working to help keep this traditional paper relevant and evolving along with modern society.

“I think people were surprised and wondered why a Dutch guy was so interested in washi,” Uitenboogaart recalls. “But the locals were really open and willing to share with me what they knew.”

Kochi is one of Japan’s premier paper-making prefectures. Tosa-washi, the paper produced here, has a 1,100-year history with records showing it was once presented as a tribute to the emperor. Uitenboogaart soaked up everything he could about this dying industry.

He eventually settled down in Yusuhara. The heavily forested area (it is 90% forest land) and culture inspired famous architect Kengo Kuma, who designed the Japan National Stadium for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. Architects and designers from around the world have visited Yusuhara to see six of Kuma’s works here.

“We owe a lot to Kengo Kuma,” says Uitenboogaart, who produced wallpaper for the Kumo-no-Ue-no Hotel designed by the architect. His washi has been used both for functional and artistic purposes. He transformed an ordinary room into a “cave” using massive sheets of washi and contouring them to accentuate textures and lighting in a pop-up gallery in Ginza. Despite his many accomplishments, Uitenboogaart remains humble, working hard to preserve the local environment.

“Washi is so intrinsically tied to nature—paper making is a seasonal process and you have to know when to plant, harvest and make the fibers,” explains Uitenboogaart. He chose Yusuhara for its cold, dry winters and pleasant summers. “The fibers that we use all come from plants; the water we use has to be really clean in order to make good paper.”

Kamikoya Yusuhara Town Library designed by Kengo Kuma

Kamikoya is surrounded by shoulder-height kozo (mulberry) and mitsumata (edgeworthia) Uitenboogaart planted. He makes sure everything from the plants themselves to the other ingredients required for papermaking are natural, and avoids pesticides and unnecessary chemicals. By producing on a small scale and locally, Uitenboogaart ensures his paper production is environmentally friendly.

The on-site workshop allows guests to make their own paper and customize it by layering in flowers and leaves as decoration or adding other washi colors. After decorating, the paper is pressed using a special stand, then left to drain overnight and dry naturally.

Kamikoya is also a guesthouse where travelers can immerse themselves in the natural environment of washi. The guesthouse houses one group at a time (up to four people) and is decorated with wallpaper, lamps and other artwork made from Uitenboogaart’s washi. There is also a covered BBQ patio where guests can cook their own food.

Uitenboogaart is creating innovative ways to use washi, such as molding the paper into straws, cups and other tools. He is also working on edible washi paper—even though technically all washi paper is or should be edible, he laughs.

Uitenboogaart’s 36-year-old son Yohei is helping raise awareness about washi and manages Kamikoya’s marketing and branding.

“I don’t want people to assume washi is this distant, intimidating artwork and process,” says Yohei. “At Kamikoya, we want to let people experience and see how they can use washi in their everyday life. That’s why we teach them the process of making paper, then encourage them to use it to decorate at home, for example as a lampshade.”

One night at Kamikoya starts at ¥18,750 per guest. Visitors can experience kamisuki, a two-hour paper making workshop starting from beating the fiber (in-depth workshops are also available). To reserve or learn more, visit kamikoya-washi.com/en.

KAIYU

Further south, Kaiyu is an escape for ocean lovers on the shores of Oki Beach. But don't be fooled by Kaiyu's exterior. This seven-story bleachedwhite resort condominium was built back in the "Bubble Era," but what gives this place its charm is what’s inside: the family that runs Kaiyu, who is committed to sustainability and helping guests reconnect with nature.

After several decades of working overseas in hospitality, the ebullient Mitsuhiro Okada moved back to Kochi from Bali to take over his father’s hotel. Together with his wife Taeko, he transformed the interior into an unpretentious hot spring resort. Kaiyu literally translates to “ocean healing,” and Okada hopes that guests will be able to find solace here.

“I grew up on Oki Beach and have been swimming in these waters before I was even in elementary school,” Okada reflects. To this day he is an avid snorkeler and freediver. “I would catch fish and octopus and bring them home to my family. We started Kaiyu to share our lifestyle, taking time to appreciate nature and enjoy natural food.”

Oki Beach is a one-and-a-halfkilometer stretch of white sand; a cozy, protected bay with subtropical, turquoise waters. Although there are moderate waves here, it’s far from any major city, so surfers willing to make the trek can enjoy having the waves to themselves. It’s also a spawning ground for endangered loggerhead turtles.

Okada guides guests to his favorite snorkeling spots where you can find sea turtles, eagle rays, pufferfish, nudibranch and many tropical fish. For a unique snorkeling experience, he also offers a cycling and snorkeling tour to a “secret river” in the mountains behind Kaiyu.

Guests can borrow snorkeling gear and surfboards for free. Ashizuri-Uwakai National Park is also a short drive away, a breeding ground for colorful marine life which also attracts whales, dolphins and sea turtles.

As mass development and food production spreads throughout the country, many guests who stay at Kaiyu are people who have recently developed allergies and are trying to find an all-natural getaway where they can heal their bodies.

“The family who’s staying here right now are temporarily escaping the fumigation in fields near their house,” explains Okada as a mother and two children run past. “Their bodies are very sensitive to chemicals, so when the farms started getting fumigated, they started getting nosebleeds!”

Out of the 70 rooms, 22 are run by Kaiyu while the rest are privately owned. Each room is designed differently, but they all face the ocean and use local wood such as hinoki (Japanese cypress)

The Okada Family

and sugi (Japanese cedar) and natural building materials that are not harmful to the body. Okada collaborates with local carpenters and WWOOFers (traveling volunteers through the World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms network) to give the hotel a new look. Since Okada mainly works on the renovations himself and occasionally with a small team, renovation is still ongoing.

After a day outdoors, relax in the onsen facility that Okada built himself. The water source is one kilometer underground and contains hydrocarbonic acid and salt. The hydrocarbonic acid smoothens and moisturizes skin and the salt warms the body long after the bath. Firewood from demolished homes nearby is used to boil the hot spring water, making it more effective. It’s said that onsen water boiled with firewood does not cool as easily due to the far-infrared effect. Aside from the water, the granite stones in and lining the bathtub are said to emit far infrared rays, warming the body.

“We had one lady who lives nearby in Ashizuri and was battling cancer. She bathed in our onsen everyday for two months. Miraculously, the cancer left her body,” says Okada. “We’d like to believe the hot spring’s healing effects helped.”

For guests’ first night at Kaiyu, Taeko prepares a family-style feast in the main hall. She uses local ingredients and Kochi’s specialties: freshly caught bonito, and as many organic ingredients she can find including tofu, ginger, garlic, onions and salad greens. Dinner is served on a big table made from upcycled wood.

“Before the pandemic, we fed twenty guests at a time,” remembers Okada. “But I think eight is best number of people. We can all sit around this table comfortably and communicate. It has a more intimate feeling, like you’re eating with family or close friends.” To make sure every guest gets the opportunity to enjoy this dinner, guests alternate eating at the hotel. Each room has a kitchenette and there are several izakayas and restaurants a short drive away.

Kaiyu accepts reservations through their website, and continues to accept a small number of guests so travelers can enjoy Oki Beach’s peace and quiet. Depending on the room, it costs between ¥9,000 to ¥23,000 per night (additional ¥2,500 per person) and is discounted during off seasons and for longer stays. Family dinner is by reservation only. To reserve or learn more, visit en.kaiyu-in.com.

GETTING THERE

Kochi Ryoma Airport is an hourand-a-half flight from Tokyo. Kaiyu is a three-hour drive south of the airport and Kamikoya, in Yusuhara Town, is a two-hour drive through the mountains west of the airport. As the prefecture is big with limited public transportation, the best way to get around is by renting a car near the airport or in Kochi City.

Visit Kochi's official tourism website at visitkochijapan.com/en. v

Dinner at Kaiyu