Issue 1.2
THE PE R F E C T SUM M E R DAY
pier (pîr) n.
1. A structure for fishing or social activities.
jennettespier.net ▪ 252.255.1501 milepost
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peer
(pîr) v.
1. To look at intently.
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A mid-summer flight’s dream. Photo: Chris Bickford
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Warning: This issue graphiccontent requires SOME imagination. gosurf
No, scratch that. It demands full-on “willing suspension of disbelief.” First, you must believe in a day when the fish are all biting and the waves are all pumping (in summer, no less). The sun never stops shining — until you wish for a thunderstorm. The beach stays empty — unless you’re cruising for skin. And no matter where you want to go, the traffic is nil (or at least it keeps moving at the clearly posted speed limit). You also have a whole 24 hours to take advantage of every whim — instead of most “perfect” summer days, where the real fun kicks in the second you punch the clock. And if that doesn’t sound fantastic enough, you also need a magic carpet, a jet pack — or at least a police escort — plus heaps of stamina and a pile of cash.
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Yet, for all its hyperbolic scenarios and mythical properties, our feature concept remains firmly grounded in reality. All the ideas came from peoples’ personal experiences. Either favorite memories or fondest hopes. In some cases, their whole motivation for slaving through the high season. It’s just the way we stitched them together that stretches the perceptions of space and free time. Chase some wild horses on the same day you bodysurf Pea Island? (Hardly.) Watch Fourth of July fireworks in Nags Head the same night as First Friday? (Not this year.) Hook a big fish offshore while slow-roasting a pig — then sit in with your favorite band for dessert?
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Ain’t. Gonna. Happen.
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But just because we display our ideas in such a strict, fictitious way doesn’t mean you have to follow the same format What is — or even the same fashion. Hell, you don’t even need to leave your neighborhood. Go drop a line in the sound, then crash a barbecue on your bike ride home. As soon as night falls, rip out “Freebird” on a borrowed hollow body, summer take a bow and bolt for the biggest empty rental to watch holiday visitors shoot for the moon, breaking both local if not a codes and international firearms laws in a display of pyrotechnic independence. Then drift off on a borrowed deck fantasy? chair dreaming you did it all. After all, what is summer if not a fantasy? A blur of hard labor, hot opportunities and revolutionary behavior. Where your job may be your job, but your real responsibility is to do something irresponsible. Or at least something creative. Just think about it. Even better, imagine it. Because once you imagine it, you might actually believe it. And the second you believe it, you’ll find yourself doing it. — Matt Walker Thank you for reading Outer Banks Milepost. We hope you’ve enjoyed it. If not — before chucking this issue in the nearest dumpster — please consider one of the following equally satisfying ways of expressing your disgust: Head protection from flying seagulls. Disposable diaper for naked beach babies. Courtesy blanket for that hairy-backed sunbather. Or simply add it to that six-month stack of newspapers you’ve yet to recycle. (Trust us: you’ll feel better.) Then, send any and all feedback — positive, negative or just plain confused — to: editor@outerbanksmilepost.com. Or light us up on Facebook with your opinions and ideas. We promise to find some way to re-purpose them. milepost 3
Live Music every Saturday night!
Celebrat ing 20 Years!
Issue 1.2 Orange sunshine; liquid refreshment. Photos: Chris Bickford.
“Summer is the time when one sheds one’s tensions with one’s clothes, and the right kind of day is jeweled balm for the battered spirit. A few of those days and you can become drunk with the belief that all’s right with the world.” —Ada Louise Huxtable “Do what we can, summer will have its flies.” —Ralph Waldo Emerson Reader You Brushes & Ink Marcia Cline, Dawn Gray, Ben Miller, Ben Morris, Daniel Pullen, Charlotte Quinn Lensfolk Matt Artz, Chris Bickford, Michelle Connor, Amy Dixon, Lori Douglas, Julie Dreelin, Tom Dugan/ESM, Lauren Feeney, Bryan Harvey, Matt Lusk, Mickey McCarthy, Dick Meseroll/ ESM, Ben Miller, Rob Nelson, Crystal Polston, Gina Elliot Proulx , Daniel Pullen, Ryan Rhodes, Patrick Ruddy, DJ Struntz/Surfing, Laurin Walker, Chris Wilson
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Penfolk Molly Harrison, Sarah Hyde, Fran Marler, Mickey McCarthy, Matt Pruett, Ryan Rhodes, Brendan Riley, Corinne Saunders, Clumpy White Art Director Ben Miller/Bighouse Design Big Mouth In Chief Matt Walker Blame It All On Suite P Inc. PO Box 7100 • KDH, NC 27948 252-441-6203 editor@outerbanksmilepost.com • sales@outerbanksmilepost.com Outer Banks Milepost is published quarterly (sorterly) by Suite P Inc. All contents are the property of Suite P Inc. and do not reflect the opinion of advertisers or distributors. Nor do their contents reflect that of the creative types (who would never, ever sell out). Comments, letters and submissions are usually welcome. Please include SASE for return delivery of all snail mail, however, Milepost and Suite P Inc. still aren’t responsible for any unsolicited materials. And don’t expect much else to move much faster than IST (Island Standard Time). Oh yeah: if you reprint a lick of this content you’re ripping us off. (Shame on you.) To discuss editorial ideas, find out about advertising or tell us we blew it – or just find out what the waves are doing – call 252-441-6203 or email: editor@outerbanksmilepost.com; sales@outerbanksmilepost.com.
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3 6 19 20
StartingPoint Make this your season of independence.
UpFront Natural food, nocturnal fliers and gnarly water.
FirstPerson Keep all seats in a locked and upright position.
QuestionAuthority Cape Hatteras’ superintendent maps out the rocky road to today’s ORV plan.
graphiccontent24 The Perfect Day
We took a lifetime of sizzling summertime fun — and crammed it inside 24 hours.
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28 36 38 40 43 45 49 51
GraphicContent What’s in your water cooler?
GoSkim Stop, drop and fly.
GoFish Like being Aquaman for the day. (If Aquaman was strapped.)
FoodDrink Twisted fish.
ArtisticLicense We could tell you — but then we’d have to kill you.
SoundCheck
Called by many names ...
Hairobics Hairtronics Hairetics Haironics Hairotics But, always called “THE BEST !”
A Mexican named Zack and a DJ called Bruce.
OutThere Get your swarm on.
EndNotes Hot dates for summer.
“The Circus Is In Town” by Charlotte Quinn Kill Devil Hills Cooperative Gallery (KDHcoop.com) “In Indonesia, they like to carve out wood stamps and make patterned batiks. I guess I just like drawing more. I do a lot of floral designs, waves and sea life. Something about jellyfish always reminds me of summer because growing up it seems like they would be in the water on July 4 every year. Of course, we don’t have lion’s mane jellyfish here, but bright colors really pop off the silk. Really, the best part is making them. Some artists are more particular; they freak out over the smallest drip, like, “Oh man, I have to start over.” I love that impressionistic feel. Just put the music on, start grooving and slinging the wax. And when it all comes out, there’s this element of surprise. Like happy accidents.” — Charlotte Quinn
(252) 441-7983 Mile Post 9.5 Kill Devil Hills, NC
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THE BIRDS AND THE BEES soundcheck
‘Backyard homesteading’ is trending big nationwide — so why is it a touchy issue in parts of Dare County? Davey Jones (not his real name) starts each morning by breaking the law. He sneaks through the backyard, lets himself in a fenced-in area, reaches into the coop and procures a small, brown egg. Thus, on a daily basis before breakfast time, he is already a criminal.
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trying to change the law so residents can keep backyard chickens worry-free, like neighbors can in Nags Head, Kitty Hawk and unincorporated areas of Dare County. Manteo allows chickens as long as owners receive a valid permit and follow restrictions that include a designated coop size, six or fewer chickens per lot and no roosters. Duck has no regulations (but would look into it if the issue came up) while Southern Shores fully prohibits them.
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“We gave away the roosters years ago,” explains his wife Sue. “Our neighbors down the street had Animal Control called on them and we didn’t want that to happen to us.”
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Chickens weren’t always banned in Kill Devil Hills — not until the1980s when roosters caused a ruckus. The Joneses kept several chickens for years after, but a passerby spotted them and cried foul. Now down to a solitary hen, they risk being busted mostly because the hen’s a responsive pet — but also for her roles as live compost machine, bug exterminator and fresh-egg-producer.
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“If you’ve ever had a good, fresh egg you understand why we might want them all the time,” quips KDH resident Susan Rollason. This spring, Rollason and her husband Rob, along with John and Kathleen Wasniewski, began the process of
“I think chickens get a bad rap because of noise,” muses Winborne Evans of Manteo. She also attributes chickens’ low-grade reputation to lack of awareness: “People think, ‘Oh, it’s a bird — it’s dirty and carries disease.’” Ironically, bird flu doesn’t transmit from chickens to humans, and backyard flocks might even reduce its potential spread. (Think cramped cages full of inbred chickens versus healthy individuals roaming outdoors.) Noise isn’t a viable complaint, either, as the loudest laying hen squawks at the same volume as human conversation (60-70 decibels).
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The biggest beef against chickens might be something harder to pinpoint: public
Hive and hen whisperer, Winborne Evans. Photo: Crystal Polston
perception. For a vacation destination sensitive to rural stereotypes, some see backyard birds as a step backward (i.e. “what would the tourists think?”) despite coops’ growing popularity in such hip and urbane areas as Charlottesville, VA, and New York City. “Now that Manteo has that pristine Victorian look to it, it’s important to them
that things stay in line with their vision,” Evans says. “I think that’s why they are so specific about the design of coops, so it doesn’t look junky.” Evans is no stranger to urban agriculture. As an avid beekeeper, she once started 40 hives in Charleston, SC, teaching students about the benefits of bees. When she moved back to Manteo after open at 7:00 a.m. every day
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college, she brought along six some see beehives, only to be told they backyard must go. Apparently, since no law pertaining to beekeeping exists, birds as it’s considered illegal. With global bee populations plummeting, a BIG step Evans hopes to convince the town backward. and its residents to welcome back the peaceful pollinators, though she understands it can be a frightening subject for some.
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NATURAL BORN KILLERS Repelling mosquitoes may be effective — but it’s hardly fun. Fill your yard with the following cold-blooded assassins; then watch them bring gruesome death to pesky bloodsuckers.
“[Bees are] very docile; they won’t just attack someone,” Evans explains. “[And they’re] important to our food supply. Some of our fruits and vegetables are pollinated only by honeybees.”
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Evans feels the real issue facing “backyard homesteaders” everywhere isn’t the animals or methods themselves, but a lack of understanding by the public at large.
Bats: This summer’s big real estate craze? Bat houses. After all, if just one flying furball eats 1000 bugs per hour, imagine what 300 can do between dusk and dawn. As with any new home, location is everything: post the house at least 15-feet high, keep it clear of branches and exposed to at least six hours of sunlight. Birds: So much for bad reputations. Turns out our feathered friends aren’t the skeeterfiends we thought they were, as even purple martins prefer larger protein-rich bugs. But you should still fill up the feeder. Once they see your yard as a food source, they’ll snack on smaller morsels between bigger meals. (Especially if you’ve got “state-bird” sized specimens.)
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Mosquitofish: Used in some states’ pest control programs, these guppy-sized critters get after mosquitoes like ravenous great whites: mass-murdering the babies and chomping careless adults who rest on the surface. Just keep them out of natural habitats. Instead, stock an ornamental pond with six to ten — better yet, chuck 15 to 30 in the nearest stagnant pool.
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Dragonflies: Somebody cue Wagner’s “Ride of the Valkyries.” Dragonflies bring death from above — and below — as adults decimate flying swarms while waterborne nymphs torpedo the larvae. They also eat small fish, so you’ll need to set up a separate pond with a small water pump, plenty of sun and a combo of submerged and erect plants to carry the buggers through their whole deadly life cycle.
“We’ve become so disconnected from our food sources,” Evans notes. “It doesn’t take a whole countryside to raise your own food. Wherever people are, they’re making use of their land. In cities people have rooftop gardens.” With bees already enjoying legal status in crowded hubs like San Francisco, Chicago and NYC — as well as closer communities such as Cary and Tidewater — Evans is currently working to bring in regional experts to help Manteo set formal guidelines. Meanwhile, KDH might decide how to handle chickens as early as June. So far, Rollason is pleased with their progress.
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“The commissioners seem very open to researching it further,” Susan states. “It’s also a great civics project for my son about how to get laws changed.”
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Spiders: Cleaning the yard and beneath the house? Leave the webs alone to do their job — then leave behind your stinky clothes. Why? A malaria study in Africa shows jumping show jumping spiders actively associate human sweat with their favorite meal: freshly fed, blood-stuffed mosquitoes. And if you think that’s creepy, “once they smell blood, they can launch into feeding frenzies where they kill up to 20 mosquitoes in rapid succession, and not necessarily to eat.” Now that’s psycho.
If not, it will remain an equally telling lesson of why some laws get broken. — Corinne Saunders
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upfront “You’ve got your huntin’ and fishin’ rednecks living in waders. You’ve got your surfers always willing to fall in the ocean. And then you’ve got your theater artists who bring a whole different aspect to Outer Banks culture.”
soundcheck RUN AWAY getactive HOME For Lost Colony alumni, one summer stint can become a lifetime engagement
startingpoint roadmap MC Andy G. rocks da mike.
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Men's, WoMen's & Kid's sWiMWear, sportsWear & accessories
Mix & Match graphiccontent separates 2000 S. Croatan Hwy. Kill Devil Hills 441-5338
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Scarborough Lane Shoppes, Duck 261-7297
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So says Maggie Bryson, chair of The Lost Colony Alumni Association. For 75 years, The Lost Colony has not only told the story of America’s first English settlers from 400 years ago, but also brought its own annual influx of summer immigrants. These actors and dancers come to cut their teeth in the country’s “longest running symphonic outdoor drama,” then scatter after the curtain closes. Some make the big time in major cities; some pursue other interests and careers. A surprising number return to call the Outer Banks home.
Edward Greene was one of the first professional dancers brought down to perform in the play in 1953-54. He then returned to his native New York for his first Broadway gig, but 14 years after he first danced in the show, he moved No matter to Manteo and opened The how much Christmas Shop. “I was so attracted to the people and the area,” he says almost 60 years later. “Somehow I always knew I would come back.” Performers don’t just fall in love with the play and its setting; sometimes they fall in love with each other. Bryson, a dancer,
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talent it exports, this pageant will remain a staple of the native community.
upfront met her actor/technician husband in 1999. They moved to the DC suburbs, but in 2007, she says they “ran away home.” As the alumni chair, she keeps tabs on 1500 alumni for which she has contact info — plus a running list of 7000-plus former performers — and says she’s perpetually surprised by how many different people the play has affected, comparing it to “the six degrees of Kevin Bacon.”
1947 and 1953, Andy Griffith went from being a soldier to Sir Walter Raleigh.
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Playwright Paul Green went on to win the Pulitzer Prize for other work, while current Production Designer William Ivey Long boasts 11 Tony Award nominations and five wins for costume design for his work on Broadway. Academy Awardwinning screenwriter Ted Tally did his summer stint years before penning Silence Of The Lambs. And between
roadmap Eddie Greene’s savage tan.
By 1960 Griffith was star of his own TV show. Instead of “going Hollywood,” he purchased 80 acres in Manteo, where his wife, daughter and son also took their turns on stage. Proof that no matter how much talent The Lost Colony exports, this pageant will always be a staple of the native community, starring a neverending playbill of local names like Meekins, Daniels, Basnight, Evans and Fearing. Marjalene Thomas’ family has been in the show for five generations. She first appeared in 1938 with
the maiden name Midgett, and has since played all the female roles, including seven summers as the lead, Eleanor Dare. She remembers when President Franklin Roosevelt came to the island and watched the drama; and when it was shut down for three years during World War II because German submarines lurked off the coast. “It’s fascinating,” observes Bryson, “because [The Lost Colony] tells a history but has also become history itself.” This July, the Colony Alum — residents and roving talents alike — will gather to celebrate that history. After a couple of dinners and at least one show, most will disperse elsewhere, just like they did so many falls ago. But roughly 300 will return to homes right here on the Outer Banks. Some of the young colonists and Indians enjoying their first roles this summer may one day do the same. And when they do, they’ll find plenty of long-lost relatives who are willing to embrace them, quirks and all. “We are a family,” Bryson says. “As close-knit and dysfunctional as any.” — Corinne Saunders
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Boutique
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Will coastal water quality fall victim to draining federal and state budgets?
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Since 2006, the sound beach behind Jockey’s Ridge has received 11 “swimming advisories” indicating an unsafe level of fecal contaminants. So what triggers those public notifications? Scientifically, you would say excessive levels of E. Coli and Enterococcus, which can cause waterborne illnesses such as staph and gastrointestinal viruses. But practically, the answer is money. Money for test kits. Money to buy gas for trips between sample sites. Money to pay people to do the work. And these days, while contamination sources only grow with coastal development, sources of cash keep dwindling.
Quality (NCSSRWQ) based in Morehead City. “[But] in a couple of years, we would have to worry about cutting back.” Potts is referring to February’s EPA budget proposal to stop funding grants connected with the Beach Environmental And Coastal Health (BEACH) Act. Enacted in 2000, the BEACH Act currently provides North Carolina with an extra $300,000 to help monitor 240 sites, 57 in Dare County alone. Without it, the program would have to make a difficult choice: cut the number of test sites to the 100 most-visited beaches; or reduce accuracy statewide.
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“For 2012, we are still going to receive our [federal] funds, and they may linger on till next year,” says J.D. Potts, head of the monitoring program for the North Carolina Shellfish Sanitation and Recreation Water
“So unless the program goes back to the lower quality testing,” says Potts, “sites would have to be cut in order to pay for fuel, lab supplies and lab technicians.” Currently, North Carolina enjoys the enviable ranking of sixth nationwide in
terms of water quality. But it still has its trouble spots. In Dare County, the two worst offenders are Jockey’s Ridge and Colington Harbour, as the sound’s stagnant waters and summer heat trap and fuel bacteria. On the beach, it’s eight “ocean outfalls” between Kill Devil Hills and South Nags Head, where even small storms can push contaminated water from flooded streets and ditches into the sea. (All of them feature year-round signs warning swimmers to stay 200 feet away.) Since 2006, the North Carolina Department of Transportation (NCDOT) and Department of Natural Resources (NCDENR) — along with scientists at the Coastal Studies Institute and UNC’s Marine Science Institute — have been studying the outfalls as part of a 2004 General Assembly decision to develop a statewide stormwater management plan. In December of 2009, they selected Conch Street for a $1.1 million pilot project that installed a “smart sponge” system of “microbial scrubbers.” This May, the engineering firm of Moffatt and Nichol released the results. Unfortunately, while the technology reduced contaminants, it couldn’t keep bacteria to safe levels. “From what we’re seeing, an ‘end of pipe’ solution won’t be some magic bullet,” noted Study Manager Johnny Martin. “We’ll need to look for ways to solve this problem upstream.” But researchers still made some key findings over the past five years. Namely, they discovered the “first flush” of any storm isn’t always the worst — in fact, some bacteria levels spike a day or two later. They also noted the “danger zone” extended well beyond that 200foot safety distance during one deluge. But they’re quick to emphasize they only studied major rain events, which represent concentrated threats in a wider pattern of healthy water.
“It’s important to remember that the water’s fine probably 340 days out of the year,” noted Dr. Rachel Noble, who studied the results for UNC. “But we need to protect that reputation and the people who swim here during these isolated events.” As a result, the state will replace the pipe’s filters this summer and continue monitoring all outfalls as they work to pinpoint the various pollution sources. The goal is to complete a statewide management plan by the end of 2013. The irony? There won’t be any money left to implement it. (The $10.5 million originally set aside back in 2004 ultimately went to finishing Jennette’s Pier.) Likewise, while Kill Devil Hills has software to predict a building’s potential run-off, there’s no paid staff to run it. But the fact is, no amount of future planning is going to completely erase the past five decades of development, which is really ground zero for all water quality concerns. “When you look at the number of homes, so many septic systems, so much fertilizer, so many dogs,” noted KDH town planner Greg Loy after the meeting, “I think we’re going to find that [people stopping pollution at its source] is the only real answer.” Start by being your own filter. Pick up after pets. Don’t feed seagulls. Go light on the lawn chemicals and reduce runoff with rain barrels and rain gardens. Then, personally call your
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legislators “We need to and tell them protect NC's to keep clean water supporting the BEACH reputation Act. That and the people $300,000 may not who swim keep every here during swimming spot safe these isolated — but it events.“ will let you know when — Dr. Rachel Noble, UNC the popular ones aren’t. “I don’t really know [if funding will be cut] because they are going to have different revisions of the budget, and it will be voted on many different times,” says Potts. “I do know that a lot of people who swim here depend on the water quality samples we provide. And [if we don’t test], we don’t have the information to give to people.” — Sarah Hyde and Matt Walker Get current water testing data and advisories on every tested beach at http://portal.ncdenr.org/ web/mf/testing-sites.
GOODBYE HELLO
Summer
2012
Left turns Quick shop Old groceries Chewy NE Robbing Peter Socks Booties
Sunburns Full stop No groceries Fruity SW Paying Paul Slaps Boo-taaay milepost 11
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BUTT SOUP? getactive
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Cigarettes and food wrappers. Diapers, condoms and syringes. Car batteries and commodes. In 2010, 615,407 Ocean Conservancy volunteers worked at 5,438 beach sites across the globe to gather 8,000,000 pounds of marine debris in one day — enough to cover 170 football fields — 60 to 80% of which originated on land. Next time you accidentally make a mess, remember the following numbers from North Carolina, and clean it up. Because the more we dump on Outer Banks streets and beaches, the more our ocean will look like a toilet.
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158 butts in 20 minutes – this is why Wrightsville Beach considered a smoking ban.
18,433
Number of NC volunteers participating in 2010 cleanup
86,884
Items collected in one day
27,388
Cigarettes/filters
7,968
Plastic beverage bottles
7,571
Food wrappers/containers
6,716
Cans
5,610
Plastic bags
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upfront soundcheck 5,171 Glass beverage bottles 1,143 4,821 Plastic caps/lids
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Articles of clothing, shoes
1,000 Toys
375 Balloons 367 Appliances
98 Car batteries
237
Cigarette lighters
86 Tampons/applicators
Lures/light sticks
35 55-gallon drums
2,692
Plastic cups, plates, utensils
902
3,021
Pieces of fishing line
746 Pull-tabs
224
2,179 Tires
724
Cigar tips
163 Diapers
1,909
Plastic straws/stirrers
688
Bait containers/packaging
146
Six-pack holders
1,675
Paper bags
446
Pieces of rope
122
Condoms
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Tobacco packaging
112 Shotgun shells/wadding
25 Syringes Source: 2011 Ocean Conservancy Annual Marine Debris Report
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PEOPLE OF soundcheck THE COAST
smaller game, fruits, melons, walnuts and divers roots.” Today, many consider the first of three “Roanoke Voyages” as not just the earliest beginnings of colonial America, but the starting point of North Carolina history. The irony? The Carolina coast had already been “colonized” for almost 10,000 years.
Looking back on the Outer Banks’ original locals
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In 1584, seven English ships reached the Outer Banks coast off of Nags Head. Weaving through a sandbar maze that marked the now non-existent Roanoke Inlet, they anchored at Roanoke Island where three Native Americans soon approached in a hollowed out cypress canoe “with an outpouring of friendship and goodwill.” They later returned with freshly caught fish and — over the coming weeks — a chief named Granganimeo sent daily provisions of “a brace or two of fat bucks, fish and
startingpoint roadmap 16th century etching byTheodor De Bry; Courtesy of the John Carter Brown Library at Brown University.
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Wonder
Artifacts show a range of early PaleoIndian cultures from the mountains to the sea of North Carolina. However, by the late 16th century, the Algonquians had settled the area between Virginia and Dare County where they cultivated large fields, especially corn. One of the first expedition’s leaders, Captain Arthur Barlow, wrote that “country corn is very white, fair and well-tasted.” He also noted a plant new to the Europeans: tobacco. “Taken the fume or smoke thereof by sucking it through pipes
upfront made of clay,” he wrote, “it purges superfluous phlegm and other gross humors and opens all the pores and passages of the body.”
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The Algonquian culture holds many lessons for modern society.
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In the spring, tribes went to the seashore to harvest shellfish, leaving huge mounds of shells at their favorite meeting places. Still, colonists described the Algonquians as “very sober in their eating and drinking, and consequently very long lived because they do not oppress nature” along with other lessons for modern society: they led rather than ruled, governing themselves through open council; women had considerable influence with the family and the tribe; and though they held considerable respect for personal freedom, the well-being of the community came first.
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While none of Sir Walter Raleigh’s three attempts to settle the New World succeeded — and while Raleigh never visited Roanoke himself — we learned much from his
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expeditions thanks to men like John White. An illustrator and mapmaker, White spent 13 months among the Algonquians during the second Roanoke Voyage in 1585. (He also later served as governor of the ill-fated “Lost Colony” expedition and was grandfather to Virginia Dare.) White’s watercolors of native life — and the corresponding etchings by Belgian engraver Theodor DeBry — widely popularized the times’ adventurous spirit. Today, they serve as the sole visual record of these earliest interactions with native culture and remain a valuable link between our modern society, early America and — most importantly — the Algonquians themselves. One of White’s maps clearly shows the word “Hatorask,” Algonquian for “there is less vegetation.” The Hatteras natives were friendly to the early explorers and colonists. In fact, some experts believe that these were the Croatoan Indians with whom “the Lost Colony” took refuge when 1587’s third and final attempt at a permanent settlement failed. In 1701, British explorer John Lawson visited Hatteras and was told that several of their ancestors were white people who could “talk in a book” — or read — the “Truth of which is confirm’d by gray Eyes being found
frequently amongst these Indians, and no others. They value themselves extremely for their Affinity to the English, and are ready to do them all friendly Offices.” We know now, such friendliness would lead to the demise of tribes coast-to-coast thanks to disease, war and dissipation. In 1584, an estimated 17,600 Native Americans lived along Carolina’s coast. By the 2010 census, just .04% of Dare County’s population — 14 people — described themselves as Native American. Fortunately, North Carolina’s indigenous culture’s mighty influence and generosity survives in our most endeared local names, serving as a constant reminder of our deeply entwined history — for they are the real Outer Bankers. — Mickey McCarthy To learn more visit Frisco’s Native American Museum (www. nativeamericanmuseum.org) or check out the following sources: “Roanoke Voyages, 1584-1587,” America’s Four Hundredth Anniversary Committee, NC Department of Cultural Resources; F. Roy Johnson, The Algonquians: Indians of That Part of the New World First Visited by the English; Ruth Y. Wetmore, First on the Land: The North Carolina Indians; Theda Perdue, Native Carolinians: The Indians of North Carolina; Douglas L. Rights, The American Indian in North Carolina; and the Outer Banks History Center.
milepost graphiccontent gosurf Courage outthere
The Lost Colony thelostcolony.org milepost 15
upfront soundcheck FANCY CANS Just in time for summer, a shiny new trend to please beach-loving beer snobs.
Sanctuary’s Weekly Acoustic Wine-Down
Thursdays from 5:00pm - 9:00pm on the North Lawn of The Cotton Gin Jarvisburg, NC
bring the whole family!
Sample Delicious Local Wines, Listen to Great Acoustic Music, and Enjoy an Outer Banks Vineyard Experience We welcome chairs, blankets, picnic baskets and friendly pets but no outside alcohol is allowed. FREE TO THE PUBLIC RAIN OR SHINE!
May 24th - September 27th 1-252-491-2387 WWW.SANCTUARYVINEYARDS.COM .
Ask for our locally grown estate wines in your favorite restaurants, stores and all Cotton Gin locations. milepost
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getactive
startingpoint roadmap go No taste buds were harmed in the making of this picture. Photo: Michelle Conner
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Dale’s Pale Ale
Mexican Logger
Shift Pale Lager
Second Wind Pale Ale
ABV (Alcohol by Volume): 6.5%; SPFT (Sips Per Frisbee Toss): 2
ABV: 4%; SPFT: 5
ABV: 5%; SPFT: 3
ABV: 5%; SPFT: 3
Most lime-spiked lagers taste like a Sprite; Ska Brewing Co.’s bites more like a margarita. A spicy, entry-level option for anyone who normally won’tt cross even the lightest beer border.
Refreshing yet flavorful, this New Belgium Tall Boy strikes a balance between mass appeal, snob appeal and indie street cred. Sorta like a Fat Tire with trainingwheels.
From Kinston, NC’s Mother Earth brewery, this breezy mix of citrus, flowers and hops will get your taste buds dancing for a long day in the sun — without giving you the spins.
Soundtrack: “Livin’ La Vida Loca”
Soundtrack: Radiohead
Soundtrack: The Woodstock Soundtrack
Beach Style: Sombrero and wet t-shirt.
Beach Style: Trucker hat and D&G shades.
Beach Style: Tie-dye and do-rag.
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Oscar Blues’ prize pony kicked off the can craze in 2002, creating a stampede of fans; in fact, this hoppy ride is the main reason you now find Sierra in silver.
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Soundtrack:
“Rocky Mountain High”
Beach Style: Cut-off denim and straw hat.
Welcome to Bud or Bud Light? Coors or Coors Light? Lite or Lite Light? (Okay, we made that one up.) But for years, Outer Banks beaches’ no-glass laws were
20 Beers on Draft • 90 By the Bottle Outdoor Patio • 16 Tv’s - MLB Package Seafood • Salads • Cheesesteaks • Burgers
enough to make any beer snob wanna swallow glass shards. Well, take heart, hops fans. Because this summer, hope comes in a can. “I call it Colorado Beer Can Movement because it started with Oskar Blues and the
PIZZA TIL 2 AM!
smaller craft brews,” says Greg Dawson at Tryon Distribution. “Now even bigger labels like Sierra Nevada and Fat Tire are doing it. It’s less costly, it’s easier to recycle — and in all reality — the quality is better because they use a new kind of liner. And of course, cans get cold quicker and stay cold longer.”
Lucky12Tavern.com
What follows is just a fraction of the saucy cylinders currently available, from fruit-
Mon: DJ BOSE 10 PM: Pint Night Weds: $5 Martinis Thurs: DJ BRUCE 10 PM
injected to humble tradition. We also paired them with beach-style suggestions and soundtracks that reflect each brew’s unique taste — then added our own drinkability rating from 5 (thirst quencher) to 1 (sledgehammer) — so you know exactly what
open all year • m.p. 12 beach road • nags head • 252-255-5825
you’re cracking into before the first sip. (Warning: some of these beers feature a price tag and alcohol content more than twice your average PBR. Consume, share and cab home accordingly.)
Koenig Pilsner
Hell or High Watermelon
Torpedo Extra IPA
ABV: 6%; SPFT: 3
ABV: 4.9%; SPFT: 4
ABV: 7%; SPFT: 2
Pure in color. Crisp in taste. Koenig brews under the Fatherland’s strictest rules and traditions to produce a reliable German pilsner that demands respect.
21st Amendment’s experimental summer seasonal mixes wheat and real watermelon juice — without making you want to spit seeds or chaff between sips. Strangely addictive.
Do you drink beer like a competitive sport where size and power is the premium choice? Make this tasty, tenacious 16 oz by Sierra Nevada your #1 pick.
Soundtrack: Polka
Soundtrack: LMFAO
Soundtrack: The Boss
Beach Style: Lederhosen.
Beach Style: Lime-green Speedo. (If you’re gonna rock it, you better own it.)
Beach Style: Gym shorts, whistle.
THE LOCAL CAR SERVICE SHOP YOU CAN TRUST!
Ten/Fidy Stout ABV: 10.5%; SPFT: 1 Hints of coffee and chocolate disguise the strength of Oskar Blues’ award-winning heavyweight. Just be careful: it’ll tan your hide before you can set up an umbrella. Soundtrack: Superchunk Beach Style: Bear suit.
• • • • • • •
Full Service Oil Change & Lube Full Brake Service Tire Sales & Repair Stereo & Satellite Radio Installation Serpentine Belt Replacement Normal Maintenance Needs Battery Testing & Replacement
NO APPOINTmENT NECESSARY!
449-4095 mP 6 ON THE BYPASS
www.CoastalFastLube.com milepost 17
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firstperson Photo: Julie Dreelin
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THE AIR UP THERE endnotes fooddrink
All summer long we see planes towing signs. Now pilot Eric Dreelin tells us what he sees.
I’ve done a lot of flying where you get in the cockpit with four or five newspapers and put it on autopilot. With banner towing, you have to keep your head moving. We get so much summer traffic: pilots making the pilgrimage to First Flight, Navy guys in T-34 trainers going to Howard’s Pub for lunch every day, people cruising beach cottages. Then there are the kites, arcing out over the water at 600 feet. That string will cut your sign like a bandsaw. Sometimes you get a kite freak staying in the same house all week. You’ll want to go over there after work with a machete [laughs].
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We’ve got four planes at It’s a lot Island Aerial. Some go all like being a the way to VB; some go from Jennette’s Pier to Kitty fisherman Hawk. We’ll all fly six hours — but instead a day, every day, for 115 days. But as long as it’s not of dragging 105 degrees outside, it’s bait you’re really not bad. You have the windows open. Nice, noisedragging canceling headsets, listening advertising. to Sirius. You see dolphins, jellies, sailfish, monstrous sea turtles. Every couple years I’ll spot a manatee. During those bluebird days in late June and early July the water’s so clear you can see triggerfish on the wrecks. Actually, it’s a lot like being a fisherman — but instead of dragging bait you’re dragging advertising. And just like being on the charter boat frequency, all of us up here are on the radio like, “You see that shark heading south-bound from Kitty Hawk Pier?” Mostly it’s little sand tigers, but I’ve seen a few fat rabbits, for sure. And there’s always plenty to look at on land: Jamups on the bypass. Friends driving or waving at you on the beach. The occasional nude sunbather. Actually there’s this one lady by the airport that’s out there all the time.
The groundwork is where it gets tricky. Those guys work their asses off keeping the signs straight. It’s like a Chinese fire drill in the Sahara Desert. And we’re rolling through there four airplanes at a time. Swoop down and hook a banner six feet off the ground — make sure you’ve got the sign right as you pass through the gate — then jam straight up to 400 feet. Sometimes I’ll be stuffing a sandwich down my throat before I reach the top of my climb. After that it’s like driving a tractor — just plowing rows through the sky.
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SYMPATHY FOR startingpoint THE DEVIL
It’s easy to demonize the National Park Service as the root of all access evil. Until you realize the enviro side hates them nearly as much.
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MILEPOST: Looking at the published ruling and comments, it seems like you’re caught between managing the needs of the local users and making decisions inside a national framework of park rules and federal law. Is that the heart of the conflict? SUPERINTENDENT MIKE MURRAY: To a certain extent. Of 397 parks, only 13 parks allow ORVs of some kind. So each one has some latitude for variability, but there are some very fundamental boundaries. Two executive orders issued in the 1970s said ORV use has to be managed in order to minimize impacts on wildlife and habitat — to minimize user conflicts and provide for public safety. The park [never finished] their ORV plan in the 70s. So, in 2007 a court in Eastern North Carolina basically said that, without a plan, ORV use at the seashore is not authorized and therefore prohibited. So, the plan and regulation is important — number one, just to authorize ORV use — and number two, to minimize those impacts.
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Because some people feel the real plan is for the park service to eliminate ORVs altogether. It’s not the park service’s plan to eliminate ORV use. Several things are at play here. One, the popularity of sport utility vehicles in the 1990s. And if [beach driving’s] allowed some place, it comes under more scrutiny. There are concerns in Corolla, and it’s not even a part of the park system. It’s really a conflict between peoples’ values. I can tell you from the public comments, there were a lot of people who do not like the idea of ORV vehicles on a seashore beach, just as there are many people who’ve been doing it for years and want to continue to be able to. Despite what it seems, the park service tries not to interject itself into those personal value conflicts. The goal of our plan is to provide diverse recreational experience opportunities while finding some reasonable balance that lets us meet our legal mandates.
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Hate clouds judgment. For example, it’s hard to convince folks you’re a diehard nature lover when your bumper says plovers taste great with sweet tea. Forwarding photos of park rangers shooting foxes can only backfire once people learn it was really a rabies scare. And, most importantly, while broadcasting beach closure news non-stop may be one way of yelling “Save Hatteras” — it’s another way of saying “Don’t bother coming to visit.” Look: there’s lots of reasons to be angry about the access situation down south. From the suing parties’ shady methods to the lack of flexibility on both sides of the issue to the sense of powerlessness that comes from watching outside interests make decisions that affect local life. Unfortunately — no matter how passionate the emotion or noble the purpose — screaming wildly over the new ORV regulations won’t help as much as trying to understand them. In an effort to diffuse some of the anger and infuse some reason, we sat down with Cape Hatteras National Seashore’s Parks Superintendent, Mike Murray, to get the Park Service’s take. Instead of a power fiend intent on “killing an island,” we found a public servant tasked with meeting the needs of two very conflicted, very vocal user groups while following federal mandates and avoiding lawsuits from both sides. We also discovered that nobody is happy with how things turned out. Not even the conservationists. As Murray notes, “People are surprised and disappointed that we didn’t just do it the way they wanted. It’s not that simple.” Don’t believe him? Keep reading. (Better yet, scour the federally registered document. Of 86 comments, all but 10 get told “sorry,” “you’re wrong” or just plain “no.”) It may not make you less mad, but it will make you feel less singled out. And seeing the full range of perspectives can only make the cause more effective in pleading its case for future change. Because as easy as it is to demonize the Park Service as pure evil, the real devil is in the details. Sounds a lot like being a referee. No one likes the referee. I can say that from looking at most of the comments on the draft plan EIS (Environmental Impact Statement) — there were thousands, so I can’t say I read every individual form letter — but they were all very polarized. I know you attended quite a bit of negotiated rulemaking, and there continued to be very little agreement between this side and that side. What was best for the park service would’ve been if the ORV side would’ve agreed with the environmental side on something that was legal to implement. Unfortunately, they didn’t. So we had to figure out the compromises for ourselves. And people generally don’t like what we came up with. How do you weigh all the public input? Did any different group’s input weigh more? Did numbers matter? There are some common principles in how comments under the National
Environmental Policy Act are to be reviewed. It’s not a vote. So numbers may be interesting, but if you get 10,000 comments saying, “I’m for no ORV restrictions” or “I’m for eliminating ORVs,” that’s technically a non-substantive comment because we decided [from the beginning] that we were still allowing ORVs but were also going to restrict them. But detailed comments are looked at. For example, it was clear in negotiated rulemaking and public scoping sessions that Cape Point is an important area for fishermen and surfers so ORV access is of value. We had some constituents that wanted all the inlets and points closed to ORVs. We decided, okay, we’re gonna have some inlets and points open to ORVs, some not, and some that may be seasonal. And, frankly, we kind of split the baby in half. Ultimately, the park service is responsible for making a management decision. We want to protect resources for future generations, and we want to
allow for diverse visitor experience opportunities, which in some ways boils down to some areas open for ORVs some not. But here’s what is common: When we get nesting birds and turtles, those areas — regardless of whether it’s ORV use or pedestrian — have restrictions.
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Frankly, we sort of split the baby in half. And people in general don’t like what we came up with. — Superintendent Murray
From the beginning, locals felt like we should have more say. But reading the rule, you see the situation was always beyond the needs of 5000 Hatteras Islanders or 30,000 Dare County residents. One comment that struck me is: “Residents shouldn’t have to pay” and the response was more or less: “It’s a national park; it belongs to everyone.” I’ve worked at eight units of the national park system now. If there’s any entrance fee or special use fee like this, it comes up, and the answer’s always the same: As much as it would be nice and increase goodwill, a national park system has to treat everybody fairly. If you’re a frequent user, it’s advantageous financially to get the annual pass, but you don’t have to live here to get that. Now, if you’re a resident of Dare County and you have a state commercial fishing license, then you’re entitled to a commercial fishing permit. People who get that permit don’t pay a fee for the ORV permit. And that dates back to the enabling legislation. That’s funny. Because when you talk about the enabling legislation, the public’s perception is that beaches were supposed to stay open forever. You’ll get different points of view on this,
so mine is not necessarily the only one. And if you read Conrad Worth’s [the Park Service Director] 1952 letter, you can pick something out of context and say: “This is what he meant.” The trouble is you have to read things in context. And [there’s a key section] in the 1937 enabling legislation where it authorizes certain portions for recreational purposes, but then everything else “shall be permanently reserved as a primitive wilderness and no development for the convenience of visitors shall be undertaken which would be incompatible with preservation of the unique flora and fauna.” And when you look at the Organic Act from 1916, the constraint is [the park] is for visitor enjoyment “provided resources are conserved unimpaired for future generations.” Now when we get sued over the Organic Act, which has happened many times since 1916, the courts have ruled consistently — and the park service policy is — that when there’s a conflict between conservation and use, “conservation is to be predominant.” Because if we don’t conserve those resources for future generations, then we haven’t met the fundamental purpose. Those seem to be two bumper guidelines in the comment responses. For people who want unlimited access it’s “we have to follow the Organic Act.” Then when someone said, “Get rid of ORVs,” the reply is, “We need to provide diverse opportunities.” We do. And we were heavily criticized by conservation groups who say — even though we are restricting ORVs more than before — you still allow more miles of ORV use than Cape Cod and Assateague Island National Seashores combined. But I would argue that this long-standing use is appropriate as long as we can minimize the impacts, and particularly the big impacts here are when ORV use is in conflict with shorebird and sea turtle nesting activities. So it’s something that has to be seasonally managed, which is where the resource protection measures come in. And, as a Continued next page...
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questionauthority S IN C E
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federal agency, the park service, under law, must contribute to the recovery of those threatened and endangered species.
upfront
How does the current plan compare in terms of potential closures? What’s different this year is the plan has designated ORV routes. That was one of the key things we failed to do before, which put us in legal jeopardy of not being allowed to provide ORV use. On the resource protection side, under the interim plan and under the consent decree, there were no pre-nesting areas designated for American Oystercatchers and colonial waterbirds. Under the plan, there are. So this new “pedestrian shoreline access� is a proactive way of protecting that habitat so it’s available for birds to nest, but still let people access the shoreline until the birds show up. Now, we’ve had confusion on the wording of our signs and we’re addressing that...
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THE ORIGINAL
Well, “leave no footprints� does sound extreme. [Ed note: new “Pedestrian Shoreline Access� signs elicited outrage this spring for prohibiting cars, pets, kites and instructing people to walk where footprints will wash away.] Well, the intent was to be more flexible. Because if we call it a pre-nesting area, it doesn’t open up until July 31. And, frankly, from the management responsibility and the legal liability point of view, it’s a calculated risk to let people into what is known and identified as sensitive nesting habitat. But our feeling is if we have good compliance, it will work. That’s the big “if� about the new plan. In order to evolve to some future change in buffers, we have to have good compliance. For piping plover chicks — just chicks, not nests — there’s a 1000-meter ORV buffer. But we designed the plan to be adaptive. So we identified
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Rentals • Lessons Boards • Wetsuits Surfwear • Sunglasses Sunblock • Sandals T-Shirts MP 13.5 Beach Rd. Nags Head 252-441-7349 milepost
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In some ways, is this a PR battle? That pedestrian access sign is more flexible — but people still use it to show the lack of access. Or the photo you see of rangers shooting a fox — when I understand the fox was rabid? Well, it didn’t test to be rabid. But I can say from a lot of experience with canids: that fox was not behaving normally. It was out in a crowd of people in broad daylight. And the issue was, at what point do you treat it as a risk to the public? But it’s a very polarizing issue, and I would say all parties involved have their public relations campaigns — some would call it spin, some call it propaganda. Unfortunately, I think the public is misled. We get calls in the summer like, “I hear everything’s closed.� And [we walk] people through the Google Earth map and it’s like, “Gee there’s a lot of places open.� Now, some of those are hard to get to — which is why we’re designing a plan with new Tracks of our tears. Photo: Bryan Harvey access points. Hopefully, we’ll see some of the access points by summer of 2013. So it could get looser after five years. But it could also get more restrictive, I assume. The bulk of public debate revolves around ORVs but a lot of pedestrian Well, potentially. We would have to access gets lost as well. Which seems determine why [those numbers] are not outrageous from the perspective that doing any better. Predation plays a role, the purpose of these parks is for people habitat plays a role, human disturbance to enjoy them. And if people can’t enjoy plays a role, weather — it all interacts. them, they won’t protect them. Do you Predation is the other big hot button think it’s reasonable for people to be issue. People say you’re killing upset they can’t walk to the beach? hundreds of animals to save a few. I respect the right of people to have their The predator control program I have mixed own opinion. And if their opinion is they’re feelings about. But we have a big problem upset about it, I accept that. From the with feral cats. There are mammalian point of view of the Organic Act — the predators that are not native to the island — Endangered Species Act, the Migratory Bird and some you can argue were here but they Treaty Act — the park service is obligated weren’t abundant. But the trapping only to protect those birds, particularly when occurs near the nest sites, and if we limit they’re nesting. When the closures to ORVs without managing predation, then we protect nests are in place it does affect both may not have much success. pedestrians and ORVs. So, in that regard,
targets for future numbers of nests or species. We’ll reevaluate whether there’s progress or not every five years and see if we can adjust something. We’d have to consult U.S. Fish and Wildlife, but I see the plan as sort of a living, adaptable thing.
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the discussion is not about ORVs. But when I hear big generalizations like, “Pedestrians can’t go anywhere either,” I usual interpret that as someone who doesn’t have enough information or the full perspective. Under the consent decree, using the same buffers that we’ve incorporated into the long-term plan, out of 67 miles of beach, we rarely had less than 50 miles open. And 17 miles sounds like a lot — and sometimes those 17 miles included very popular areas like Cape Point, South Point of Ocracoke, etc. — but the challenge is that during peak visitor period, it is also the peak breeding season for those species that are protected. I wish I had a magic wand for a simple solution to enable these birds to nest successfully when there are a lot of visitors using the area. I don’t. And I’m not sure there’s a way to do that. Let me ask you this: Do you think [Audubon’s Deputy State Director] Walker Golder is getting heat from his people? Or do you think they feel like it’s a success? I don’t know how Walker feels because I don’t see him or talk to him. It’s unfortunate that people feel like there are winners or losers here. If we try to envision the future, 10 to 15 years from now, what I’d like to see is that nesting populations are thriving, that people have adapted around the seasonality. That we’ve been able to revise parts of the plan based on adaptive management — if we can justify it, and that’s a big “if.” Visitor understanding of the rules and willingness to comply with the rules will help determine how much flexibility we can have in the future. You can argue one side likes it more than the other, and that’s probably a fair argument at this point. But the executive order says — and I’m paraphrasing here — “you have to close ORV use if you can’t manage its impacts.” And in my mind the plan has some flexibility that will let it evolve over time as we learn from its successes and its failures. Former supervisor Bill Harris said he felt like he “lost every friend” over this issue. I’ve heard about rangers not being served
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in restaurants Part of the and stores. problem is What has it been like for the opposing you over the sides don’t past 7 years? It’s been recognize challenging there are professionally. I have a very people who dedicated don’t think staff. Some of them are not the same way treated well in as they do. the field. That’s unfortunate. — Superintendent I wish the Murray park service had completed the plan back in the 70s. But people should not be misled into thinking that would’ve solved everything. In 1978, when the draft plan was published, loggerhead turtles were listed as a threatened species but piping plover were not. So even parks that did their plans in the 80s had to become more restrictive later. I don’t mind being judged on the facts of how things work out, but in some ways it feels like we’re being overly prejudged from the point of view of fear and hysteria. Frankly, a big part of the problem is the opposing sides don’t seem to recognize there are other people out there who don’t think the same way as they do.
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Fine art, craft, Jewelry and Bonsai.
What’s that they say: A true compromise is when neither side walks away happy? Well, if that’s true, then maybe the plan’s in the right spot. — Matt Walker To read the complete transcription of this twohour interview — including discussions on fees, corridors, disputed science, bird counts on spoil islands and ORV issues in other parks — go to www.OuterBanksMilepost.com. For the full Cape Hatteras ORV rule and comments, go to www.federalregister.gov/articles/2012/01/23. And for an updated list of seasonal closures go to http://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/ googleearthmap.htm.
www.silverbonsai.com 905 South Main Hwy 64 252-475-1413 www.silverbonsai.com milepost 23
THE P E R F ECT D AY We took a lifetime of sizzling summertime fun and crammed it inside 24 hours.
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C. White
Ryan Rhodes
Chris Bickford
Tom Dugan/ESM
Chris Bickford
On your marks...
Get set... Tan! Doesn’t work, does it? Acquiring that perfect bronze takes more than just laying there — so does compiling the perfect summer day. We asked a random local panel how they would spend 24 hours with nothing to do, then crammed it all into a minute-by-minute blitzkrieg of possibilities nearly impossible to pull off. Lucky for you, you’ve got the whole high season to try. But you better get started. Now... go! milepost 25
M OR NIN G S E RV I C E This morning the spit is blotted with cormorants. Like a black ink pen spilled over sandy, cream tablecloth. No horizon, just fog, and a sun hitting the snooze button. 5:51am Phosphorous glow green in the ripples that hit the sand. Step11:01am ping out of the 3:36 oakpmand pine tree line, she reaches the beginning of the dock. Twisted pylons 7:55pm lifted by past hurricanes. A sketchy roller coaster, she thinks. The weight of the bucket brings her back, metal handle pressing neatly into her callused palm. Nostrils clear from the salt and fill with sun-bleached wood, coconut shampoo and pine needles. Green shoots of marsh grasses push past winter dead like a paintbrush no one washed clean. Laughing Gulls’ wings map out the wind eddies and gusts above; Belted Kingfishers call in the distance. In cities these birds would be plastic bags, paper bags. Steadying herself against the wind, her arms arc across the sound sending a spray of dried corn into the air. It falls like confetti or rice. She watches it slowly sink. This morning there is no job, no routine. This morning she wakes up outside of her bed and with the sea birds. Her arms fall to her side, her lips part and she whispers: This is my church. — Sarah Hyde
5:51am
Greet the dawn with a breath of fire... then go back to sleep for at least 20 minutes. 6:11 Smell of fresh-ground coffee draws back the covers. Yawn. Scratch. Check the webcams. 6:15 Kill the computer. Grab your togo cup and tackle gear, then bike to the pier for a firsthand peek at conditions — ocean, crowd and otherwise.
7:01 Phone rings. College buddy’s posted up in Corolla with rich relatives; invites you to come “take breakfast on the lanai.” 7:02 Thank the man for the tip — and the bait — give him ten bucks and make your way north. 7:14 Mmmmmm... donuts. 8:01 Buddy: “Wanna go look for wild horses?” You: “Why not?”
6:21 Neighbor yells over a fence: “Pig roast later, you coming?” You: “Why not?” Promise to be back in time to help. (He doesn’t believe you.)
8:07 Lock hubs and drive north. Pass truckload of teenagers spinning their wheels. Help dig ‘em out; then rinse off with a series of shorebreak somersaults.
6:30 Stop in the middle of the bypass to marvel at the lack of traffic.
8:12 Find wild mustangs frolicking in a tide pool. Lie to your pal that you see this all the time.
6:41 Find ten bucks in the pier parking lot; also discover where all the cars went. Decide to go to the sound instead. 6:53 Old-timer says you’re floundering with your cast net (and not in a good way); shows you proper technique. milepost
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“When on a summer’s morn I wake, And open my two eyes, Out to the clear, born-singing rills My bird-like spirit flies.” — William Henry Davies
8:17 Pass same batch of stuck teenagers on the way back. (This time you offer your cell phone instead of a shovel.) 8:32 Somewhere between chocolate croissants and Belgian waffles,
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you agree to participate in 10th Annual Extended Family Sand Castle Competition. 8:44 Kid: “What are those two round things on your mermaid?” You: “Earrings.” 8:45 Text: “Kayak’s ready; cooler’s full.” Promise kids you’ll be back to finish. (They don’t believe you.) 9:15 Push the speed limit south to beat checkout madness. Blue lights and sirens scream up your tail… then blur past to stop the guy going 10
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9:57 Wipe your brow in backwaters of Kitty Hawk; start paddling through the reeds just in time to see a cottonmouth slither by. 10:31 Osprey swoops overhead, drops stick in the water and heads east toward the ocean. You do the same. 10:37 Swing past house to change suits. Pig smell draws you next door. Steal a bite of potato salad, pitch two ringers and promise you’ll be back. (They still don’t believe you.)
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milepost 27
BOOM BOX
11
Not all citations are something to brag about. 12
1
Ice
We said it. You read it. But we’ll both probably still forget it. 2
Fishing spoons
Keep away from real spoons. 3
Hook remover
Just in case anyone gets confused. 4
Fake Mustache
“He ran that-a-way, officer…”
Sharpie
I.D. Solo cups. Stockpile digits for future dates. Write an address on your drunk buddy’s arm and send him home in a cab. 6
Goody’s powder
The cure for yesterday’s beach day. 7
Fish bites
Keep away from real food. 8
Fin key
outthere
Convertibles are all the rage this summer. So are pranks. See how long it takes for your buddy to notice his “retro quad” is now a “backwards twinnie.”
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Plastic toys
Go away, kid, you bother me .
What makes for a rockin’ beach day? Variety. Flavor. And volume. We jam-packed this ice chest with a play list of summer items for every mood and scenario. Because no cooler should be a one-hit wonder.
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Fishing license
9
Koozies
The Surgeon General warns a cold beer can show signs of sunstroke in under 10 minutes; insulate accordingly. 10
Flyswatter
SW winds bring biting flies. Kill the buzz before they kill yours. (Also makes a handy air-guitar.)
13
Wax
On second thought, don’t bring wax. (There’s no pick up line better than “Can I borrow a rub…?”) 14
Zinka
Neon paint makes your kid stand out in a crowd — or a rip current.
15
Bikini top
16
Sunscreen
Not all swimming casualties float to the service.
Let your age be your SPF guide, from 15 to 30 to 50+ (After that: F— it, you’re wrinkled.)
Lighter
17
Keep it secret; keep it safe.
18
Jelly worms
It’s not cheating if they’re worms.
19
Belly Jelly
The worlds’ most beach-friendly petroleum product. (For external use only.)
Metal utensils
20
Regular saltwater baths make plastic obsolete.
Bikini wax
21
A fella can dream, can’t he?
Ear plugs
22
Children, stereos, screaming parents — they’re only entertaining when they’re your own.
Fake tattoos
23
Tribal band. Anchor. Rebel flag. As long as you’re joining the crowd, you might as well join ‘em all.
Cigarette filter holder
24
Hold on to your butts.
25
Meat Tenderizer
The best solution for jellyfish and sea-lice stings (unless you like being peed on.) 26
Church key
Salvation for bottle sinners. 27
Canned goods
Sodas, Spaghettios, Sterno, air — you can never be too prepared.
28
Dog poop bags
Take one every time your dog does.
29
30
Frisbee
Need a plate? Let last night’s kiddie meal come full circle.
Mousetrap
When we said, “Help yourself to anything,” we were just being polite.
milepost 29
THE OL’ NI N E - T O - F IV E Beach days beckon. Deadlines loom. We already know which one will win. Cancel the sitter. Phone the friend network. Forrest Street? South Nags Head? Bladen it is. Begin the begin. Scramble for sunscreen. Fill cooler with kid food. Pull yesterday’s wet rashguards and suits off the line. Skimboard, umbrella, shovels — “Where are your flip-flops?!” — buckets, nets, semi-dry towels — “Hello?! Flip-flops?! — pile it all in a sand-filled beach bag. Load the car. Pray for a spot. Park. Schlep. Neck sweating. Ray Bans slipping. Ducklings struggling. Slaps catching hot sand. Boogies dragging by the
leash toward a semi-circle of welcome smiles. Sigh… Perform rusty chair and umbrella ritual. (Both useless.) Air? Southwest and clean. Ocean? Glass-green. Head clear. Eyes wide open. Wave riding. Wave hopping. Trick watching. (Does it even happen if Mom’s not looking?) Sandcastle building. Hole digging. Foot burying. Sand flea collecting. Dolphin spotting. Baitfish stalking. Moon jelly throwing. Shell sorting. No gull feeding! Kid with sandy eyebrows wants a cheese stick. Low tide bliss. Sea green floating. Oh yeah, that deadline. Just another hour. Did you say beer? Two more
hours. Finally sit. Towel-wrapped youngest child in my lap. Curled up. Butterfly tankini full of pebbles. Pink half-moons for eyes. Crinkly, ocean-smelling hair. Breathe this. Remember this. Dad’s here! One last dip becomes one more hour. The dimming light; the time sublime. Turn it all around — quick! — before the whining starts. Cold access shower. Chill Beach Road pace. Windows down. Sticky air on saline skin. Snowbird dinner. Today I play, tonight I work. It’s the life. — Molly Harrison
“Summer, it turns me upside down. Summer, summer, summer — it’s like a merry-go-round.” — Ric Ocasek 5:51am 11:01am 3:36 pm 7:55pm
Chris Bickford
11:01am
Peak sunbathing and/or mimosa hours begin... hydrate accordingly. 11:04 Post up with the closest circle of friends — steal the nearest empty beach chair. 11:14 Watching skimboarders makes your neck hurt; decide to revel in full use of your legs with a long walk. 11:25 Pick through a shell-bed. Score a piece of red
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beach glass — and meet a cute piece of beach candy. 11:26 Thank god for dark sunglasses. 11:32 You: “Wanna go grab a bite?” Her: “Why not?”” 11:41 Sneak past people yelling at the hostess and nab last two bar seats. 11:45 Cash-strapped workmate calls begging for your shift. You begrudgingly agree.
11:46 Change your order from iced tea to Long Island iced tea. 12pm Text “Swell’s filling in; crowd’s thinning out.” Leave drink, pay the tab and promise your friend you’ll see her later. (She doesn’t believe you.) 12:20 Get tubed. 12:22 Get tubed. 12:24 Get tubed. (Repeat.)
1:20 Float on your back for a while. Stop counting clouds at zero. 1:22 Borrow fins and mask and swim out to the wreck. 1:40 See a shadow that’s bigger than yours. Decide a beach nap sounds better than a dirt nap. 1:47 “Zzzzzzz…” 1:51 Text wakes up you up: “Wanna ski?” You: “Y Not?” 1:58 Launch the boat. 2:12 Really launch the boat. 2:25 Borrow a wave runner; pretend you’re Kenny F’in Powers. 2:38 Wonder why cold chicken tastes so much better on a hot day — or if a hot day just feels better while eating cold chicken. 2:45 Get dropped at the dock. Stop to help two boys tie up some chicken necks. Make sure they fully follow the five-inch rule. 2:52 Take the puppy for a walk. Swing by the park on the way home — then swing over it a few times. 3:31 Mmmmm... garden hose.
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THE GOLDEN HOUR In summer, your night off from work is the real boss. Telling you what to do, when to do it. And it always tells you the same thing: be outdoors when the afternoon dies. Because six straight shifts, you’re stuck inside at that most beautiful time. When western clouds look like pink x-rays. When the breeze smells like barbeque and sounds like laughter. When bullfrogs croak, crickets chirp, and fireflies glow. It all happens at dusk, and you’re not going to miss it. Brown lawn? Water it at dusk. When you can stand and drink beer shirtfree without offending the neighbors. When the setting sun dapples distant trees, sending stretched shadows across the road into your front yard.
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Surfboard ding? Fix it in the fading light. Take time to sand your board and powder your forearms; dunk the fiberglass in resin and watch it disappear. Like ice in water. No hurries; get it right. Date? Grab two beach chairs, a couple of sandwiches and a bottle of whatever’s on sale. Sit down by the water, where waves sizzle and retreat into the sand. Bury your feet. Touch toes. That silent contact is more intimate than any dinner conversation. Of course, if your karma’s no good, if you were rude to customers, didn’t return that twenty, or haven’t called your mom, it might rain. Then you’ll have to wait ‘til next week. — Brendan Riley
“Summer afternoon — summer afternoon; to me those have always been the two most beautiful words in the English language.” — Henry James
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Matt Lusk
3:36pm Check pig.
5:19 Captain cruises up in his charter: 6:55 “It Was A Good Day” “Wanna lift?” You: “Why not?” comes on Sirius. Realize you need ice cubes. 5:22 Troll. 7:22 Drop two 20lb bags 5:30:02 “WHAM!” 3:49 Wind comes up. Strap on and a freshly steamed bushel the kite gear and take a bouncy on your neighbor’s picnic 5:30:03 “Whirrrrrrrrr...” sound-side jaunt to Jockey’s Ridge. table. Proceed to soak several newspapers in drawn butter, 5:57 Enjoy a slice of fresh tuna 4:34 Hike up the dune and lie on Old Bay and pig grease. Skate while racing toward Oregon your back; wonder if stunt kites back to beach for another Inlet — then follow it with a remind everyone of stealth fighters. huge hunk of watermelon. Note rinser. that they’re the exact same color. 4:44 Hang glider instructor: 7:40 Stumble across evening “Wanna try?” You: “Why not?” 6:20 Captain says he feels like beach service; thank God for having a bodysurf. Him: “Pea this glorious day as you do 4:50 “Woooooooo!” Island?” You: “Why not?” another somersault; promise to 4:51 “Ouch.” go to church more often. (He 6:34 Get tubed3. doesn’t believe you, either.) 4:52 Decide you’re better off in 6:45 Wonder what kind of sicko the ocean. loves the sensation of sand-rash 7:41 Lightning cracks. Find cover — and a cooler and bug bites. 5:01: Southwest wind carries — under an empty house. you way offshore; chase a pod of Sit back and watch the show. dolphins ‘til the houses look like 6:52 Do not — we repeat, DO NOT — crack a cold one coming rows of teeth. back over Bonner Bridge. Pitch ringer. Promise you’re still gonna help. (They still don’t believe you.)
Matt Lusk milepost 33
“Press close, barebosomed Night! Night of south winds! Night of the large, few stars! Mad, naked, Summer Night!” —
Walt Whitman
5:51am 11:01am 3:36 pm 7:55pm
Matt Lusk
DARKNESS STUMBLES Lonely. You’d think a non-drinker would find Dare County nightlife to be just that. Not true. The nocturnal hours are a kaleidoscope of human folly. Sober eyes and ears record every moment. It starts with a casual game of cornhole. One wild fisherman, one family guy and one pool jockey hoping to land a gazelle. A couple beers and the night heats up. Dinner and drinks becomes drinks and drinks. Early-bird jazz to latenight spaz. Collared shirts to spiked collars. They stagger; you steer. Last call to first light. Before it’s over, an untethered puppy struts on stage, a Radford coed flashes the crowd and a grown man sobs outside the ladies’ room. None of this seems unusual to anyone else. Loading up the loaded, you laugh at the blue lights and make your final deliveries: One to a creepy after-party. Another goes home with his gazelle (though she’ll wake up looking like a water buffalo). The last you offer a lift down south for dawn patrol, but he declines. Only at night, and only in summer, can the responsible father become a creature of impulse, connecting the dots as they happen. So you drop him home with his wife, his son and his hungover list of weekend honey-do’s. Then, sizzling with electricity and caffeine and saltwater lust, you grab two boards, a tackle box and a fresh gas station biscuit. You have no co-pilot, but that’s okay. Hatteras guys like it better when you come alone. — Matt Pruett milepost
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7:55pm
Bolt home to find your neighbors nodded out. Trash the paper. Stack plates — then fill yourself another one. 8:07 Small plane circles the hood: Text: “Meet me at KDH Strip.” You: “Roger that.” 8:15 He touches, you go. 8:23 Buzz a beach wedding in full swing, then toast Wilbur Wright, Orville Wright and Clyde Cessna as you and sunset cross paths over First Flight Memorial. 8:53 Do a U-Turn around the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse; make mental note to spend the next day off down south doing nothing. 9:20 Park plane in Manteo. Stop
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for quick beer downtown — then another. Bid on custom piece of local art and promise to pick it up later. (They don’t believe you.) 10:01 Pilot: “Wanna go crash that wedding?” You: “Why not?
burn like fabulous yellow roman candles exploding like spiders across the stars.” You: “Kiss me, you fool!” 12:01 Moonlight swim without a shred of clothing — or shame.
10:40 Turns out your beach girl’s a bridesmaid; sparks fly somewhere between “Brickhouse” and “Love Shack.”
12:45 Follow sound of music over to beach road and a marquis screaming, “BEST BAND EVER. ONE NIGHT ONLY.” Walk in sandy and soaked.
10:50 “Right foot, let’s stomp... Left foot, let’s stomp... Cha Cha now y’all.”
1:00 Frontman sees you mouthing lyrics: “Wanna sing?” You: “Why not?”
11:25 Steal out the door to see late-night 1:50 Text: “Still jamming here. Where r fireworks; stroll down the beach and huddle u?” Grab last empty cab. up against a private piece of sand-fence. 1:57 Take tired girl home and carry her inside. Promise you’ll see her later. (This 11:31 Her: “The only people for me are the mad ones who never yawn or say time she believes you.) a commonplace thing but burn, burn, 2:50 Roll into house with extra beer and bongos — manage to beat more life out of the party. 3:29 Tiptoe back to beach for final look at stars. 3:33 “Zzzzzz...
Chris Bickford
5:50 Wake up between a yellow bucket and a pair of Spongebob flip-flops.
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5:51 Kid: “So are we gonna finish this mermaid or what?” You: “Why not?”
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goskim firstperson THE REFORMATION
Most wave-riders live in awe of the ocean — skimboarders choose to worship the beach Say goodbye to your children. The toe-headed teens bobbing out in the lineup. The girls tanning and taking long strolls. The sandcastle hellions rolling in hot sand. Soon, they will all congregate in one spot by the shore. Lining up for a craze that — much like Elvis’ pelvis, the Beatles’ hairdos or boxers riding high above the beltline — befuddles and frustrates an older generation. Traditional wave-riders who will never understand: why would anyone stand on the beach to wipeout in waist-high surf, when they could spend their whole day bathing in it?
gohunt
goskate
artisticlicense
“A lot of us still surf and boogie board when the waves get good,” says Kitty Hawk’s Perry Pruitt, who, at only 17, is already a two-time East Coast skim tour champion. “But something about skimboarding is more interesting. I still remember watching the high school guys when I was a kid and being blown away by all the tricks and possibilities.”
And it happens all summer, no matter how flat the sea gets. In that way, skimming is more like skateboarding, as kids practice increasingly technical tricks over and over — necessary for a pursuit that starts out hard and only gets more difficult. Just imagine staying balanced on a speeding banana peel without slipping. Now, time the oncoming wave for a perfect rebound. Next, build momentum to reach a peak 10 yards off the beach and rip a turn, while performing multiple moves — maybe even a tuberide — between the two points.
Greg opened his Skim City shop in Kill Devil Hills a full fifteen years ago. Back then, tourist shops sold flimsy, plastic Sandpipers and poly-coated plywood for $50 or less. Today, his Indialantic, Florida location stocks hundreds of space-age blades to meet modern performance demands, with pricetags up to $500. Still, he reckons skimming’s still in its infancy. While his Outer Banks Skim Jam is one of the sport’s oldest and largest events — boasting 175 competitors from all over the country. And most of them aren’t even old enough to vote.
“The drop and timing are everything,” says Joyce. “If you don’t have a good drop to get speed, you’ll never get out to the wave — period. And if you don’t have good timing to use that speed at the
“I like to say I’m the second oldest skimboarder on the planet,” jokes the 58-year-old vet. “We just
fooddrink endnotes
questionauthority Can you blame him? In a place where every soccer mom sports Roxy — where your elementary school mascot carries a thruster — surfing may be fun, but it sure ain’t radical. Not like doing suicide flips in the shorebreak while cute chicks gawk and giggle.
upfront
“It’s definitely more social,” explains James Joyce who, at 23, represents the elder set. “You’re standing on the beach with all your friends, watching every ride. All the action is going down right there in front of you.”
soundcheck
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critical moment, the whole ride is worthless.” And occasionally, hilarious. Some cocky 40-something struts up and asks to try — two seconds later, he’s back under his umbrella with a bruised ego and sore butt. And that’s if he’s lucky. If he’s not, a single snap judgment can become a busted eardrum, broken ankle or worse. “If you talk to the medical center,” says Greg Krolczyk, “they’d probably thank skimboarding for keeping them in business.”
don’t have that same legacy as surfing; that bunch of guys in their 40s, 50s and 60s who grew up doing it.” And that’s exactly why it’s so damn cool. After all, what could be more rad than leading the charge of a boardsports rebellion? Cruising the coast to compete with just your bros? Bolting to skimboarding’s Laguna Beach birthplace, sharing spots with world’s very best pros? Or — in the case of Hatteras’ Shortbus label — being the only skimboard shaper on the whole Outer Banks?
“
for every kid learning to stand up on an outside sandbar, five more are popping shuv-its ALONG THE SHORE.
But life on the fringes comes at a price. While skimmers see themselves as monopolizing the perfect reform to maximize its potential — some adults just see a bunch of punk teenagers hogging their beach spot. And when conflicts happen, authority figures tend to side with the old guy. Fortunately, Outer Banks lifeguards work hard to educate both sides about minority rights and mutual respect. “The problem is people have this sense of ownership when it comes to the water, when what it really comes down to is courtesy,” says Dave Elder, KDH’s Ocean Rescue Supervisor. “So our approach is to tell skimboarders to find us first before any conflicts escalate into something serious. What we find is that most people just don’t understand. They don’t realize that they basically just walked on the field in the middle of a baseball game.”
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Moving forward, we all need to learn new rules about sharing the shoreline. Because for every kid learning to
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James Joyce’s “no fin again” wake. Photos: Ryan Rhodes
stand up on an outside sandbar, there are five more popping shuv-its over an inch of water. Some so young their trunks don’t say “Billabong” — they say “Batman.” And that’s the ultimate sign of an impending growth spurt. “I swear before I left for California, it seemed like only a few guys did it,” says Joyce, who moved home this spring. “Now there have to be a hundred. Younger and younger, better and better. Sometimes you’ll see thirty in one spot. And you just walk over the dune and step right in the middle — there’s nothing else like it.” — Matt Walker
The Outer Banks Skim Jam comes to Kill Devil Hills, July 28-29; for location and details go to skimonline.com.
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gofish
TRIGGER firstperson HAPPY goskim
From fitness to fresh seafood, spearfishing is killer fun. Just remember to aim carefully. Thump. Thump. Thump. Thump. Each heartbeat rings in your ears like an amplified metronome, quickening with increasing pumps of adrenaline. Gliding through the cool water — searching for points of reference in the surrounding expanse — you feel alone, exposed and completely vulnerable.
gohunt
goskate
Slowly, a silhouette forms out of the blue. The skeletal remains of a sunken ship, fish flitting about in synchronized formation. The grip on your spear tightens as a colorful flash swims into focus. Coming closer… closer… BANG! A silent blast brings you back to reality — and face to face with tonight’s dinner writhing on the end of a spear.
artisticlicense
Food. Exercise. The chance to immerse yourself in an undersea world. There are plenty of reasons why people find spearfishing addictive. But the real draw is something any angler can appreciate.
fooddrink
“Spearfishing is very challenging, physically and mentally,” says Pam Landrum, owner of The Outdoors Outfitters and Nags Head Diving. “Pitting your skills against those of the fish; it’s almost primal.”
endnotes
So at what point did someone think, “Hey, there’s a fish — let’s throw some deadly weapons and see what happens?” About as long as humans have been sharpening sticks. Cave drawings in France and Egypt depict boatmen sporting barbed harpoons; classic Greek historians illustrated tridents as an effective tool. And while techniques have advanced with time, the guiding principles remain the same: humans like to eat fish; and fish like to hide.
questionauthority
This timeless battle can lead you all over the world, exploring undersea structures from crashed planes to offshore oilrigs. Locally, an abundance of shipwrecks, bridges, shoals and piers provide the most opportunity, sparking a popularity boom over the past 15 years. Some diehards even book charters into the Gulf Stream, hunting big game fish in the shadow of huge vessels. But with
upfront
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The deeper you go, the cooler it gets. Photo: Matt Lusk
increasing numbers of Outer Bankers embracing the discipline, veterans say where you go isn’t as important as how you behave once you get there. “After almost being shot, I’ve learned that you better know how to use your equipment and be prepared for any situation,” says Kill Devil Hills’ Adam Miller. When not counting pills, this pharmacist is combing the depths somewhere offshore. In the past 12 years he’s had his share of thrills — including spearing a 67-pound cobia the day his third son was born — and scary situations. And every hit or miss offers a single reminder: “Etiquette is crucial.”
“
No matter how techniques advance, the guiding principles remain: humans like to eat fish; and fish like to hide.
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Good protocol begins with knowing your own physical limits. Start by learning how to snorkel and equalize your ears. Once you’re confident underwater, test your ability with a pole spear, which is closest to what the Native Americans used. It’s basically a long dart propelled by a large rubber band that loops on your arm. Hawaiian slings are slightly more powerful, but trickier, since the band and the spear aren’t attached. Spearguns are the most accurate and closest to traditional firearms — with a stock, barrel and trigger — except elastic bands, pressurized air or explosive cartridges provide the firepower. They’re also the most dangerous. But no matter the weapon, Miller says the most important thing to remember is they’re all deadly.
Artisan roasted coffee, specialty espresso drinks, hot tea, chai, iced drinks, pastries, biscotti, metro newspapers, gifts, an eclectic selection of books and a shady porch to set on. Open at 7am, 364 days.
“Don’t ever shoot until you know that the coast is clear,” he says, “and always have a buddy waiting outside the water in case of an emergency.” The potential hazards don’t end with avoiding other humans. Because there’s no such thing as “catch and release,” some species, like red drum, are illegal to spearfish. So before going out, double check that your fishing license is current and you are up to speed on regulations and size limits. And when in doubt, don’t shoot. In the late ‘40s, Pioneer Ralph Davis teamed up with peers like Jacques Yves Cousteau to establish standardized rules for the taking of record fish. But with increasing popularity comes increased pressure on resources; experts debate whether spearfishing isn’t just ethical, but ecologically sustainable. Hatteras waterman and jack-of-all trades Russell Blackwood has been spearfishing since the ‘70s. After seeing local wrecks get picked clean by the “trigger happy” few, he offers a stern reminder for those who can’t hold their fire. “It doesn’t always have to be about the kill,” he notes. “Just the experience of being out in that environment is enough. But if you are going to take fish, only kill what you can eat.” — Fran Marler
For rules and regulations regarding spearfishing in North Carolina, go to www.ncdmf. net; and to ask questions or discuss issues with the wider spearfishing community, try www.spearboard.com.
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SUSHI SEASON
endnotes
Chef Milo gives us nine things to remember when ordering raw fish this summer
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startingpoint
Milo loves seafood to pieces. Photo: L Dub
I’m not a technically trained sushi chef. I don’t even use Japanese names. I don’t say “nigiri.” I say “sushi fingers.” I call nori “seaweed.” I’m not trying to front. I’m just a guy who takes fresh local seafood and vegetables, rolls it up with rice and makes you some dinner.
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Tortuga’s Lie was the first place to roll on the beach. When Tim Kelly started it at Goombay’s, his assistant, Scott Gordon, was my roommate. So I learned from them and Kenny Fucci. Over the past 14 years I’ve rolled everywhere from Awful Arthur’s to Chilli Pepper’s to Bob’s Grill. This summer it’s Thursdays at Rundown. But my first real sushi experience was with Scotty. We caught a rockfish on the bridge to Manteo and ate it raw for three days straight. Anytime I catch rockfish now, I’ll take a piece into work and put a nice slice on everybody’s plate.
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Order whatever the chef or server recommends. Triggerfish is awesome. Wahoo, too. And Grouper. Sheepshead makes great ceviche. Local tuna’s always good. But if you see “sushi grade ahi” in a store it’s always from Asia and it’s always pumped full of carbon monoxide to keep it pink. They call it “tailpipe tuna.”
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I try to go local on everything. Except salmon, which Carawan’s flies in fresh from Scotland and tastes way better than Atlantic or farm-raised. And my smoked eel’s frozen. Sorry. But nobody wants to think of me killing a live eel from the sound and smoking it. You don’t want that image in your head. You can’t fight tempura. I stayed away from fried as long as possible, but people love it. Especially spider rolls. Soft shells came early this year so the next thing I’m looking for is good shrimp. We can get them as early as June from South Carolina and Morehead City. The best local stuff comes in the fall. I do a “Greentail Roll” topped with wasabi sesame seeds — the pink-and-green combo looks real nice. But only if it’s fresh. Because most frozen shrimp tastes like iodine. The rice is the most important thing. When you bite into a roll, you want to feel every kernel of rice shooting between your teeth — not a bunch of mush. That and the size: a roll should never be bigger than what you can fit in your mouth. Scoring straight cucumbers is tough. In life, you know somebody’s going to tease you for something. You might be the teacher who jingles his change or has chalk on his back. I’m the weird guy who fondles every cucumber before I buy three of them [laughs]. I’m sure people whisper behind my back when I leave, like, “What do you think he’s doing with those?” Be patient. Each roll takes about three minutes. You get 20 people ordering sushi, that’s an hour. So if you order seven rolls and a pizza, expect the pizza to come out first. But if you have a special request, I’m all about it. Just write it nice and big on the menu. Even better, come up and ask questions. That’s why we’re out there. I love it when kids come and watch, too. I don’t think any sushi chef has a problem with that. At least they shouldn’t. Every chef has their own style. We’re not trying to reproduce anything. That’s why we all make up or own names with local flavor. At Awful’s I had an Avalon Roll. At Bernie’s it’s the Tropical Roll or Island Roll. I’ll still make you a California Roll. But I’d rather make you a Carolina Roll. California is all about plastic surgery and boob jobs, so they like fake crabmeat. I use real crabmeat in mine — because on the Outer Banks, we keep it real.
ROLLING THEIR OWN
A sampler of homegrown twists
TAIKO - Nags Head Roll: White fish, eel, shrimp, AQUA - OBX Roll: Fried soft shell crab and avocado roll topped with spicy tuna, masago, tamago, avocado, cream cheese, crab stick, lightly fried with sauce green onion, sweet sesame sauce SUNSET GRILLE - Sunset Roll: Kani, avocado, TORTUGA’S LIE (Wednesday nights) - Tortuga Roll: Tuna, crispy wanton, chili, aoli, masago masago, topped with tuna and salmon SANYA - Outer Banks Roll: Crawfish salad, shrimp, crunch, topped w/ mango and avot
BAREFOOT BERNIE’S (off-season) - Bernie’s Roll: Shrimp, crabmeat, red pepper, cucumber
FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE - KDH Roll: White fish, crab stick, avocado, cream cheese, lightly fried with sauce
Outer Banks Brew Station (off-season) - OBBS Roll: Omakase (Japanese for “I’ll leave it to you” aka chef’s choice of fish), crab and cream cheese milepost 41
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THE REBORN fooddrink IDENTITY For years Carol Willett worked as an intelligence officer for the CIA; now she’s embarking on a whole new paper trail.
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Carol Willett seems like any other carefree Outer Banks artist. Her surroundings are just quirky enough — a seashell-adorned round house (technically 17-sided, but that’s another story) sitting in the oaks and wax myrtles of a Southern Shores side street. A garden filled with the driftwood collection of a true beachcomber, and plenty of yard art, including a raving monster on a swing that invites rubbernecking but is not too far past Outer Banks normal.
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Dressed in a black shirt crawling with bright lizards, she’s sipping tea by a sunny window in her studio, talking about the proportions of mermaids, Eastern vs. Western dragon mythology, infinity, the wonders of clams’ eyes and her artistic medium of papier and cloth mâché.
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Sitting here amongst her jellyfish and dragon sculptures, and her latest project, a herd of hand-hewn sea slugs in various states of completion, you’d never suspect that Carol Willett spent more than 30 years working in the upper echelons of the U.S. Government. You’d never guess that she was an intelligence officer in the U.S. Air Force, or that she was in the CIA for 17-plus years, “supporting intelligence collection, analysis and reporting.” That she’s visited every country in the world except three (Brazil, Botswana and Australia), or that she has “a working knowledge” of five languages.
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She is proof that reinventing yourself is indeed possible. But it’s rarely instantaneous.
Thegetactive retired as a senior executive officer in the proportions Willett Government Accountability Office (GAO) in 2010 and of mermaids, joined her husband in their Outer Banks vacation home, but shedding her former bureaucratic persona wasn’t dragon easy. It took many months of breathing salt air, of being startingpoint worn by Outer Banks winds, of shell collecting and mythology, mosaic crafting. It took some carpentry and gardening and the and the writing of her autobiography, mainly for her two children because there was so much she couldn’t wonders divulge about her job when they were young. (Her son’s roadmap of clams’ friends were convinced she was an assassin.) eyes arE But it was Dave, the thing swinging on the gazebo in the front yard, who finally gave her back her freedom. all part of go HER artistic One day last October, Willett showed up in her sunroom and starting crafting a monster. medium.
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I’ve come,” she says. “I’ve gotten my sense of humor back. I had lost it toward the end.” Still, Willett says she enjoyed her jobs with the government because she felt like she was serving her country. “But after 34 years, the bureaucracy starts to get to you and you lose your patience for large systems,” she says. “Large systems are always psychotic.” After Dave, Willett simply became entranced by the technical challenge of papier and cloth mâché. She made an elegant dragon. A mermaid. A deep sea fish. A butterfly. In a medium she’s only been working with for six months, Willett has already taken several commissions. While photocopying her Christmas letter, which contained a picture of a trophy dragon head she’d crafted for her son, the owner of the UPS Store commissioned her to make a UPS elf. Photographer Gordon Kreplin later saw the elf and asked Willett to make a greeter for his store. That led to a jellyfish and a leafy sea dragon for Kreplin’s studio. A friend asked for a bulldog to place in the Globe & Laurel Restaurant in northern Virginia.
Shredding documents was never more fun. Photo: Gordon Kreplin/Ascencion Photography
The idea had been swirling in her head. Sometime back she’d read a book, The Simple Screamer, about papier and cloth mâché creatures. And on this day, she started it. She crumpled her old catalogs and bent wire coat hangers around them to make a body. She wrapped it in strips of newspaper and molded flour and water paste. She ripped old sheets and sopped them in glue to smooth on as the skin. She formed teeth and nails and hands and ears. She hung body parts from the ceiling fan to dry. As she struggled and cussed at the unwieldiness of the creature, it dawned on her that she was creating someone she knew — a former co-worker in the maddening world of the U.S. Government. “When you work in government for as long as I did, you meet a lot
of monsters,” says Willett. “‘Dave’ is in memory of one particular monster that I worked for.” She laughs at how mad she got at Dave. “He took over this house,” she says. “He got so big. Everything about him — the egomania, the amount of time and attention he required. He was so fussy. He wouldn’t dry in one day; he required four. He was such an embodiment of this one individual, and I had a great deal of fun, especially because I could make him as ugly as I wanted… There’s something very liberating about making something ugly on purpose.” And now, when she sees him out there in the front yard, Willett is happy. “This Dave makes me think of how far
“I had no idea it would spark people’s imagination so much,” says Willett. “It’s really been quite lovely.” Willett says she hopes to one day sell more of her work, but for now she’s just happy with the creative process. “There’s a great joy in creating something that you don’t have to intellectualize,” she says. “And I’ve worked with my head most of my life. This does not require a lot of headwork. This is sitting down with the vaguest notion and my hands just kind of take over. I’ve also learned a lot about going with the flow… It’s taught me a lot about celebrating what evolves instead of wanting it to be a certain way. I think I’m a lot more mature.” — Molly Harrison milepost 43
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soundcheck From self-aware compositions to filming concept videos to having their own merchandise guy, it’s like a bunch of babyfaced KDH kids popped from the womb a fully developed rock band. Truth? At just 18 to 23 years old, every member’s been writing, performing and collaborating for nearly half their lives. (All five played the same 2005 Festival Park talent show in different high school combos.) The other half, they’ve spent obsessing over it.
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These dudes are tight: TJ Harrington (bass), Jamie Brumbeloe (guitar), Joey LaFountaine (drums), John Saturley (guitar/vocals) and Matt Wentz (guitar). Photo: Chris Bickford
SONIC YOUTHS milepost Don’t let the fresh faces fool you — Zack Mexico just may be the Outer Banks’ most mature act yet
Velvet Underground. The Ventures. The Pixies. Pink Floyd. Ask folks to describe Zack Mexico, you’ll get a new comparison for every head in the crowd. But for each obvious description, there are a dozen deeper connections nobody’s considered. Some unrecognized jazz riff or obscure hip hop beat. Maybe even a Harry Nilsson tune or two. Like the infamous elephant in a room full of blind men, while the listener latches onto the familiar element he finds most prominent — be it trunk, tail or tusk — the beast itself remains something larger and more impressive.
“We seriously spend so much time listening to different stuff,” says bass player, TJ Harrington. “Checking out new labels, watching old clips online, going to festivals. But as much as we want to succeed, we don’t want to force it. We just want to keep making good music and have it come naturally.”
So far it’s working. In less than two years they’ve gone from doing area open stages to gigs in Greensboro and Raleigh. They’ve got an EP, Abberation of Celestial Kokomo (produced by fellow Outer Banker, Tyler Byers). A capital label called Diggup Tapes. And enough momentum to make Paste Magazine’s list of “12 Carolina Bands You Should Listen to Now” — plus get on the playbill for two major festivals: Beech Mountain’s Gnarnia in August and Raleigh’s Hopscotch in September.
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“We’re like the five points on a star,” says singer/ guitarist John Saturley. “We each have our own different influences, but we come together in middle.” Mostly they come together in layers. Swelling. Rippling. Piling up on stage. Slurring between psychedelic jams, subtle guitar melodies and sporadic moments of manic percussion. Exploding with volume and energy — yet firmly anchored by vacuum-tight changes where every note counts. Every time. “Recording is how we write songs,” Saturley explains. “You get that fast pace of being able to lay tracks down and change sounds around. That’s really our tool.”
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They’ve spent halF their lives playing music; the other half obsessing over it.
“It’s cool because the Roots is the first band listed at the top of the Hopscotch bill,” laughs TJ, “and we’re the last.” At this rate, Zack Mexico could be the Outer Banks’ first 100% homegrown export. But don’t worry: you’ve got all summer to see them go loco. Provided you can wait ‘til July. “We’re taking all of June off to record an album,” says Saturley. “Something far more serious with heavy story lines and narration. We have all these ideas in place of where we want it to go —now we need to go into hibernation and get it there.” Sounds like the elephant just got bigger. — Leo Gibson
Hear Zack Mexico at soundcloud.com/zack-mexico; or download their free EP at Bandcamp.com. milepost 45
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(252) 441-1392
soundcheck getactive POWER TRIPPING Is DJ Bruce really the master emcee — or just another slave to the grind?
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It’s always the same story: Boy meets music. Boy loves music. Boy devotes life to making music. But while burgeoning bands dream of stadiums packed with worshipping fans, a good DJ builds a following by making each person feel like the night’s biggest star. “I basically play everyone’s favorite song — and then I play another one,” laughs Kill Devil Hills’ Bruce Jones. “The emphasis is never on me.” Even his stage names are understated. In college “Bruce J” earned a reputation from Richmond to DC for playing “Drum and Bass,” a blistering, complex techno style that hits speeds of 140 beats per second. Today, “DJ Bruce” keeps local clubs blissfully oblivious. But no matter how many bumping bodies crowd the Really, my floor, the real life of the party lurks in the shadows. Hunched job is to down; headphones on. Mixing beats and blending tracks with get girls laser focus. Elevating energy to dance. levels from “cruising altitude” to “warp speed.” If he wants, Because if can blow the whole mood girls dance, he to bits. The one thing DJ Bruce can’t do? Play the style of music guys stay. he loves most of all.
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Wall of sound. Photo: Chris Bickford
graphiccontentmakes two blank records play any MP3 just like vinyl: I can gosurf
MILEPOST: Were you a teenage kid practicing in his bedroom; except instead of picking out “Stairway To Heaven” you were trying to scratch?
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DJ BRUCE: Oh yeah. And I’d sit for hours learning to “beat match.” I used to buy these cassettes by DJs in New York and California. I remember thinking, “That sounds like two songs playing together — but that’s impossible.” Then one day I let one record play, and I let the other record go and tried to adjust the pitch control to sync the music. I was like, “No way. This is what they’re doing!” I know it sounds easy, but you’re constantly changing the speed in the smallest increments. And if you mess up, it sounds horrible. They call it a “trainwreck.” So why bother using turntables in the age of laptops? You don’t need them. DJ Bose doesn’t use them; I think DJ Marshall and DJ Fresh do sometimes. But, to me, that’s where the creativity comes in. I’ve got this program that
manipulate ‘em, scratch ‘em, drop my hand and stop the music. If somebody hits the turntable, the song actually skips. Plus, I don’t have to buy a new Lil Wayne record every time it comes out [laughs]. But with hip-hop, you’re limited to what you can do creatively because it’s so lyric-focused. That’s why I like Drum and Bass. The beat progresses and new sounds constantly come into play.
Do you ever get to play it locally? Not really. People who go to clubs want to hear songs they know — which is usually commercial, bump-n-grind music. The dirtier the better. Really, my whole job is to get girls to dance. Because if girls dance, guys stay. The cell phones start ringing. And more and more people show up. How do you know what to play for different crowds? The key is to slowly bring the energy up. Like, even at a wedding, if you play that oldies song “Shout” first thing, people are like, “Dude, ease up, we’re not ready for that.” But if you put on a Michael Jackson song, then something else to get ‘em going, by the end of the night
you can do just about whatever you want. I just play stuff and see how it affects the crowd. Then I think, “How can I hype it up even more?” It almost sounds like mass hypnosis. It sort of is. But if things get too hype, I have to slow it down. Because everyone’s drinking, they’re crowded together. Fights can break out and stuff gets broken. But I can’t go too slow, because then people leave. The saving grace is a reggae track because nobody really hates on reggae. They may not be able to dance like a stripper to it, but they’ll still hang out and buy a beer. So what’s, like, the worst thing you can play? Well, I can’t play Garth Brooks or anything. But sometimes if things are about to get out of control, the owner gives me this look, like, “We need everyone out. Now.” That’s when I play like four Drum and Bass songs in a row. Turn it up and just rip it. It’s that bad, huh? Oh yeah. I can kill a party in 30 seconds. I’ve done it before. — Leo Gibson milepost 47
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Great Aquarium
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BUZZ OF SUMMER This is it. The summer we take over. The year we totally rule this place.
Deep woods. Shallow water. Porch swings and showers.
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Boats to backyards to bathrooms.
Cruising? We’re swarming. And raging. And buzzing. And always — always — sucking.
In your space. Under your skin. Morning thru night. Every second. Of every hour. Of every day.
We’re the flies you can’t swat. The itch you can’t scratch. Until, ultimately — finally — you give up.
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And just when you relent, we’ll go away. (Or maybe we won’t.) — C. White
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Washed Ashore Gallery - Manteo
IN THE PHOENIX SHOPS ACROSS FROM TRANQUIL HOUSE INN
Catherine Hamill, Artist www.catherinehamillartist.com (252) 473-1360 washedashore@ymail.com
endnotes Got your snorkel handy? How ‘bout a B.S. filter? Good. You’ll need ‘em both as we dive into an extended summer edition of “EndNotes.” It all kicks off June 4-5 with the BlueMind2 Summit at Jennette’s Pier. Hosted by Seaside Vacations, this brainchild of visionary marine biologist Dr. Wallace J. Nichols brings together top neuroscientists to discuss the sea’s impact on human happiness, with a message any Outer Banker can appreciate: “Live like you love the ocean.” Can’t score an invite? Watch it live at www. outerbanksvacations.com. • Or, if green’s more your color, come out June 7 for the 5th Annual Interfaith Community Outreach Golf Classic. Each competitor gets a free Outback dinner on-site plus a shot at hole-in-one prizes on every par 3. Starts at 1pm at the Nags Head Links. Cost is $100 per player or $400 per team, with proceeds benefitting the ICO’s do-good efforts. Details at www.interfaithoutreach.com. • It may not be your first rodeo, but it will be your last (at least until next summer). On June 9, from 9am to noon, Pea Island hosts its annual “Fishing and Crabbing Rodeo,” your only chance to treat the refuge’s precious waters like a seafood buffet until 2013. For info call 252-987-2394. • Or you can paddle your butt back up to Kitty Hawk — literally — for the Blue Crab Kayak Tour. Every Wed., June 6-Aug.12, Outer Banks Epicurean Amy Huggins takes you on a culinary and ecological adventure to see working shedders and watermen before heading to Coastal Provisions for a private cooking demo. Sign up at www.outerbanksepicurean.com. • Look up in the sky, it’s a bird! It’s a plane! No, it’s an 80-foot scuba diver chasing a 100-foot octopus. Must be the 30th Annual Rogallo Kite Festival at Jockey’s Ridge. This two-day event is a tribute to NASA scientist Francis Rogallo, whose flexible wing was the catalyst for modern hanggliding, stunt kites and — apparently — monstrous airborne aquarium displays. Come out June 9-10 for demos, contests and kitemaking. (P.S. The 34th Annual KHK Wright Flight kite event soars over Wright Brothers Memorial July 21-22, 10am-4pm. More on both events at www.kittyhawk.com.) • Float over to the NC Aquarium on Roanoke Island by June 22 for a chance to see Britain’s rocky, southwest shoreline without crossing the pond. David Green’s “Graveyard of the Atlantic” photography shows why both coasts share a deadly, shipwrecking moniker, as well as some serious history: turns out The Lost Colony also traces its roots back to North Devon. Go to www.NCaquariums.com for details. • On June 13 from 8am to noon, the Fritz Boyden Memorial Youth Tournament revitalizes our coastal angling community, as every recreational pier promotes Boyden’s message: “If you take your kids fishing, they’ll never get into trouble.” Sponsored by the Nags Head Surf Fishing Club, the NC Beach Buggy Association and the North Carolina Sea Hags. Learn more www.nagsheadsurffishingclub.org. • Get hooked twice when Jennette’s Pier (www. jennettespier.net) hosts their Second Annual Family Fishing Tournament on June 9, 7am-1pm; then come back a third time for the Pirate’s Cove Small Fry Fishing Tourney, June 28-29, offering trophies, t-shirts and two age divisions: 3 to 8 and 9 to
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15. More at www.fishpiratescove.com. • “That’s so gay.” You said it, mister. The second annual OBX Pridefest comes to Nags Head June 13-17 with everything from cabarets to booze cruises to drag brunches to Michael Walters (aka Dame Edna), promising near nightly nuttiness at the Comfort Inn Ballroom. There are also special church services and coffee with the Gay/Straight Youth Alliance, and it all culminates with an all-day festival at the First Colony Inn on June 16. All-access passes are just $75. Learn more at www.obxpridefest.com. • Ten hut! The Rhythm in Blue Jazz Ensemble of the U.S. Air Force Heritage of America Band will salute Duck’s 10th Anniversary with a Town Green concert on June 9 at 6pm. Keep the beach chairs and towels handy, ‘cause the Town Green party continues with a Summer Music Series every Thurs. at 6pm. Here’s the playlist at press time: Aquarium ( June 28); Fantastic Shakers ( July 5); The Fuzz Band ( July 12); The Crowd ( July 19); Adrian Crutchfield ( July 26); The Kirsten Thien Band (Aug. 2) and The Little Kings (Aug. 9). • Meanwhile, every Tues. in July, the amphitheater’s Duck Unplugged showcases stripped-down acts like Becky Kessler ( July 10), Connected ( July 17), Karl Werne ( July 24) and Watson and Calhoun ( July 31). Shows start at 6pm. • From July 5-Aug. 9, Thurs. mornings at the ampitheater are for children’s listening pleasure, with a one-hour story time sponsored by Duck’s Cottage bookstore and Island Books. Starts at 10am. (For a complete, countywide list of ways to keep the kids busy, check out the summer issue of Outer Banks Child.) • As long as we’re in Duck in July, the 8th Annual Fourth of July Parade will be held on — wait for it — Wed., July 4 at 9am followed by a community social at Town Park, starring folk guitar star Ruth Wyand. Visit www.townofduck.com for the full route. • Of course, that means fireworks will start flying come nightfall, starting with Corolla’s 20th Annual Independence Day Celebration, 6-10pm at Currituck Heritage Park. (More at www.cometoourbeach.com.) In Manteo, Roanoke Island Festival Park precedes the pyrotechnics with a patriotic performance by The 440th Army Band at 8:30pm. And Nags Head’s 16th Annual Fireworks Spectacular is set to light up the night at 9:25pm, with two prime viewing locations: up close and personal at Nags Head Pier or from the top of Jockey’s Ridge. No matter the location, arrive early to snag a good view (and parking spot). • Get to Jockey’s Ridge first thing and you can ring in the holiday with a glorious display of athleticism — and community engagement — by raising money for Friends of Jockey’s Ridge in the OBX Killer Dunes 2-Miler. Starts at 8:30am. (More at killerdunes@gmail.com.) • Or make it an afternoon rager at Art’s Place’s Unforgettable 4th of July Event. Party kicks off at 3pm with live, local music by the new backyard bar, then rocks freely into the starspangled hours. • The Whalehead Club is spouting over its fat event schedule. Start with June 20-21’s 11th Annual “Under the Oaks” Arts Festival. With music, food and 100 artists, it’s sure to draw a crowd — get it? Then, the Wild Horse Days fundraiser gallops through July 3-5, complete with carriage rides and a Continued next page... milepost 51
endnotes real, gentled mustang. Each Thurs., July 5-Aug. 30, the Summer Concert Series celebrates sunset on the club’s south-side lawn. Plus, there’s weekly wine festivals each Wed., July 11-Oct. 31, 3pm till 7pm, where the $20 entry includes a souvenir glass while kids and nondrinkers get to roam free. (Pets still have to be on a leash.) More at www. whaleheadclub.org. • Over in Manteo, Roanoke Island Festival Park keeps the summer culture flowing with theatrical performances. Besides ECU’s take on the Pulitzer-winning play “Our Town” (Indoor Theatre, June 26-28), there’re two musical engagements: UNC Greensboro’s production of Gilbert and Sullivan’s classic comic opera “The Pirates of Penzance” (Outdoor Pavilion, June 19-21); and AT&T State’s “Ain’t Misbehavin’”, a jazzy tribute to the Harlem Renaissance (Indoor Theatre, July 10-12). Tix are $10 ($5 for kids). Get full deets at www.roanokeisland.org — and complete lyrics to “the Modern Major General” on Wikipedia. • The Outer Banks Relief Foundation has two summer fundraisers. First, celebrate Christmas in July by giving your palate a gift when the First Annual Red Nose Wine Festival comes to Manteo’s Marshes’ Light on July 12, 3-8pm. $35 gets you endless vino and music by Mojo Collins and Laura Martier. (Full details at www.rednosewinefestival.com). Then on Aug. 5, beat feet to Kitty Hawk’s Old Station for the OBX Sandbar 5K Race. $25 guarantees a shirt, an after-party and a shot at prizes. Learn more at www.outerbanksrelieffoundation.com or call 252-261-2004. • ‘Tis also the season for all sorts of art shows. Southern Nights at Southern Shores turns the Market Place into a free concert and art walk at 6pm on June 13, July 11 and Aug. 9. (All beer proceeds benefit a local charity.) • Down south, there’s an Avon Art Show every month next door to Hatteras Realty — June 28, July 19-20 and Aug. 9-10 — complete with a fish fry and 35 local artists, starting at 5pm. • Or head up to Kitty Hawk’s Hilton Garden Inn July 11-12 for OBX Summer Arts, which puts all the best local talent all in one room — two rooms, really — starting at 1pm. Call 252-441-1850 for details. • And the New World Festival of the Arts will spend its 31st year on the Manteo Waterfront, Aug.15-17, inviting 80 talents from Vermont to Florida to take part in a juried exhibition and sell their wares. More at www. outerbanks.org. • In the beginning, there was First Friday. Not really, but it’s always a genesis of creative thinking. And it’s always held — wait for it — the first Fri. of every month, with opening nights for the following Dare County Arts Council artists: Holly Nettles’ impressionistic brushwork and Angie Clark’s mosaics ( June 1-July 3); a lineup of surf-influence with Ben “I do more than just murals” Morris and photos by Daniel Pullen and Matt Lusk ( July 6-Aug. 1); and two takes on watercolor by Meg Rubino and Catherine Hillis (Aug. 3-Sept. 5). Go to www.DCAC.org for full deets. • Come Sat. morning, it’s the Manteo Farmers Market, full of fresh veggies, organic products, crafts Summer is the season for local artists like Meg Rubino.
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— and new this year — certain approved seafood like spot, flounder and shrimp. Feed your senses all summer long (except June 2). • While you’re there, get your doggie a bath — and even a Frisbee or sweater — to help the OBX SPCA feed its Bubba Fund, which provides medical care for the Dare Co. Animal Shelter’s seriously sick and injured animals. And with hurricane season upon us, now’s a good time to go to www.obxspca.org for a full Disaster Preparedness sheet for your furry family members. Among the tips? “You never leave a pet behind!” • The Civil War marches all summer long at the Outer Banks History Center inside Festival Park. On June 9, curator KaeLi Shurr will host “From Slave to Civil War Soldier: The Remarkable Early Life of Richard Etheridge” in the OBHC reading room. On July 14, Historical Consultant Dennis Schurr brings “Civil War Scenes through the Lens of the Magic Lantern” to the RIFP meeting room. Then it’s back to the OBHC reading room on Aug. 11 for “The Importance of the Battle of Roanoke Island” with Fort Raleigh Park Ranger Michael Zatarga. All shows are 2-3pm; the gallery exhibit, “The Civil War Comes To Roanoke Island: Fishers, Fighters & Freedmen” will be open before and after every talk. • This summer, take time to stop and smell the flowers — as well as taste and touch them — when Elizabethan Gardens’ Scent-sational Thursdays dazzles kids of all ages 10-11am, every Thurs. June 7-Aug. 30; more at www.elizabethangardens.org. • “To develop, encourage and promote public awareness of the historical and cultural heritage of boat building in Dare County and to support educational opportunities for students.” That’s the noble, nautical mission of the Dare County Boat Builders Foundation. And you can help by participating in the 9th Annual Carolina Boat Builders Tournament. Come out July 19-22 for cocktail parties, silent auctions and plenty of fishing. More at www.dcbbf.org. • Share a wave with the whole planet — at least in spirit — when International Surfing Day comes to Nags Head’s Bonnett St. on June 20. Join the Surfrider Foundation’s Outer Banks Chapter at 5pm for a family-friendly BBQ (thanks, Boar’s Head!), beach cleanup, and — ocean willing — some surf. Then on July 21, be at the KDH Bathhouse for the 19th Annual Surfrider Paddle Race, as 60+ competitors of ages and disciplines battle shoulder-to-shoulder in a one-mile sprint for big prizes and bragging rights. Proceeds benefit annual scholarships for local high schools. Scoops at http:// outerbanks.surfrider.org. • That’s SUPtastic! No, really. The Kitty Hawk Surf Company Stand Up Paddleboard Race is scheduled for Manteo on July 14th. (Details to come at www.khsurf.com.) And on Aug. 24, it’s the 13th Annual Ocean Games, right by the KDH Ramada, featuring all-day kayak and paddleboard races and free demos. (Weather permitting, of course.) • Post up at Jennette’s Pier for a wide range of surfing events from caring to cutthroat. On June 26, Hurley’s Rip My Shredstick makes every kid feel like a pro by borrowing his board, while Surfing for Autism emphasizes stoke’s therapeutic side to special-needs kids Aug. 10-11. The Arnette Cash Pot series stirs-up top names with major dough on Aug. 17. And the Rip Curl Grom Search gives undiscovered surfers 16-and-under a shot at big-time recognition on Aug. 18. (Google any of the events above to compete, volunteer or pre-beg for schwag.) • If you just like to watch, Rob Beedie’s 2012 GSN Hatteras Island “Rock The Coast” Surf Film Music Festival will Continued next page...
SPONSORED BY:
th Anniversary 1937-2012
Pridefest
June 13–17, 2012 Nags Head, NC Outer Banks
Dame Edna DJ Scotty Thomson CARIBBEAN DANCE PARTY Sayer McShane Enyce Raye
and the Beach Blanket Babes red letter day Ffelt Beach + Sun + Fun Jennifer Warner High Tide BoOzE CrUiSe Nags Head Pool
Party DJ Airrick Darkes Old Enough to Know Better Pirate Booty The Lost Colony Beach Party
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endnotes bring outstanding surf cinema to the big outdoor screen July 31, plus music by SoulOne, Band. • Speaking of bubbles, rumor has it a big New York outfit’s working on bringing Grant Austin Taylor, The Blind Prophets and others. It all goes down at the Waves an all-day Foam Party to area clubs. And Rehab will fill up The Pit on Aug. 4. • For Village Kiteboarding Resort on Hatteras Island. Or get your turn in the spotlight some natural after-hours action, cruise south and try Cape Hatteras Lighthouse’s when filmmaker Doug Walker spends the preceding week gathering footage and night climbing tour, offered weekly during the summer months. It’s the perfect vantage interviews for a new project with a beach access angle. If you’ve got the talent, hit Rob point to see constellations without as much light pollution, and there’s even a full-moon up at www.globalsurfnetwork.com. • More of a sand man? Come out to Kitty Hawk tour when conditions allow. Call 242-473-2111 for details. • Superstar surfboard artist Kites June 27-30 for the Outer Banks Sand Sculpture Festival for competition, Drew Brophy — you might remember him from such classic works as Natural Art Surf lessons, entertainment and free skin cancer screenings. Buy an event t-shirt from Peace Shop’s Cape Hatteras painting and countless ...Lost customs — will visit select Outer Frogs and help support the Outer Banks surf shops in Aug. for live demos Banks Hospital. • Awwooooooo! Red and free poster signings. Check www. Wolf Howlings run every Wed. thru drewbrophy.com for specifics. • If Aug. 31 at Alligator River National sunset’s your favorite color, join the Wildlife Refuge, giving a rare, up-close OBX Great Glow Run on Aug. 1 at look at a recently re-introduced 7:39pm as they charge to the top of the endangered species. Cost is $7 for ages East Coast’s tallest sand dune (aka 12 and up; registration required. Call Jockey’s Ridge) to say “so long” to the 252-216-9464. • Think that’s scary? sun and “hello” to a rising full moon. $20 Hatteras historian Danny Couch tells all buys a glow stick, shirt, plus post-race sorts of ghost stories and pirate tales snacks and drinks with proceeds down south every Thurs. ‘til Aug. 25. benefitting Easter Seals. Register by Starts at 7pm. Call Hatteras Realty to July 23 at www.obxglowrun.eventbrite. reserve a spot: 888-428-2372. • As long com. • Less grind, more rind. On Aug. 9, as we’re feeling weekly, we might as well take a break from your long, hectic run the gauntlet of nighttime summer to join the OBX Watermelon entertainment. Start at 5pm at SweetFestival at Kitty Hawk Kites in Nags T’s in Duck, where you can taste wine on Head, complete with a dunk tank, moon Wed., steal pints on Thurs. and sample bounce, obstacle course, pie-eating beer and live music on Fri. Kitty Hawk’s contests, tie dying, face painting, food, Black Pelican brings plucky bluegrass music and a whole heap of watermelon. to the oceanfront deck every Wed. at Activities range from free to $10 with Summer stargazing tours make the Lighthouse your stairway to heaven. Photo: Daniel Pullen 6:30pm. Trio’s a smorgasbord of halfproceeds benefiting the Wright Flight price drafts (Sun.), half-price wine by the Foundation — a local non-profit that glass (Mon.) and regular live acoustic music by Natalie Wolfe (Tues.), Little Kings rewards 5th graders who achieve academic goals with soaring opportunities from hang(Wed.), Jug Tucker (Fri.) and The Shamen (Sat). Kim Kalman’s Christian Music gliding to plane rides. • Hey, ladies! Get first shot at the big ones when the 3rd Annual Concert Series runs every Mon. through Labor Day, 7-9pm at the Good Life Eatery Alice Kelly Memorial Ladies Billfish tournament goes down Aug. 11-12, raising funds splitting time between an open stage and a featured performer. (Info at www.kimkalman. for the Outer Banks Cancer Support Group. It also serves as a lead up to the summer’s com.) Or sneak over to Jarvisburg, where Sanctuary Vineyards’ Weekly Acoustic favorite boat show, the 29th Annual Pirates Cove Billfish Tournament, Aug. 13-17. Wine-Down pairs cool tunes with crisp vino; every Thurs. ’til Sept. Sept. 27 from Full of nightly food entertainment, daily action — and a 1,228.5 lb. state record Blue 5-9pm. More at www.sanctuaryvineyards.com. • Okay, third time’s a charm. (We hope.) Marlin caught on the tourney’s 25th Anniversary — this world-class event is the “reel After much expectation (and misinformation on our part), Southern Culture on the deel.” More on both at www.pcbgt.com. • Whether you’re a native, transplant or full-on Skids is definitely scheduled for July 6-7 at the Port O’ Call. BYOEPB. (Bring your own tourist, for one summer day you can call yourself a Daniels. Just be at the Bethany eight-piece box.) Or get your Carolina country fix with Greenville’s own Parmalee on United Methodist Church in Wanchese on Aug. 19 at 3:30pm for the 78th Annual June 23. • On July 26 stampede to Kelly’s for Animal Liberation Orchestra, one of Daniels Day. Founded in 1934 by late cousins Melvin R. Daniels, Sr. (Register of many multi-cultural acts to come, including The Wailers ( June 4), Carbon Leaf ( June Deeds for Dare County for 54 years) and Josephus Daniels (Publisher of Raleigh’s 28) and Sublime coverboys Badfish ( July 15). • Since 2012 marks two decades since News and Observer, former Secretary of the Navy under Woodrow Wilson and Sublime’s first album hit streets, it’s only fitting you’ll get two chances to pay respects. Be Ambassador to Mexico under Franklin D. Roosevelt), this is your chance to celebrate at the Outer Banks Brew Station July 20 when 40oz To Freedom does San Diego’s 278 years of continuous contributions by one local family. As late chairman Roy Daniels best “no-Bradley” impression. Then come back July 29 to remember another fallen III always said: “Everyone is a Daniels on Daniels Day!” ( Just remember: the next day you hero who couldn’t say “no”, with Who’s Bad? The Ultimate Michael Jackson Tribute go back to being just another transplant.)
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Open Year Round • Serving Lunch & Dinner
9.5 It's ALL Good! Milepost 9.5 • on Highway 158 in KDH 252.441.7889 • MamaKwans.com milepost 55
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Outer Banks Brewing Station America' s first wind powered brew pub
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252-449-BREW (2739) • www.oBBrewing.com
OBBS Award-Winning Cuisine & Craft Beers
2010 OBX Shrimp Cook-Off Winner 2010 Taste of the Beach Chef’s Choice 2010 NC Best Dish Finalist 2011 Taste of the Beach People’s Choice 2011 Colington Crab Classic Winner GABF Medal Winner WBC Medal Winner