December 2023: The Politics of Fashion Issue

DECEMBER 2023

THE POLITICS OF FASHION ISSUE

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Table of Contents FRONT OF BOOK

04 Haute Online 08 Top 5 12 Editor’s Note 13 Masthead

SEAMS

18 Beate Karlsson 20 Bestsey Johnson 22 America Ferrera 24 Prince

26 Wear to Show You Care 30 Fashionably Safe 32 The Science of Shades 34 Pyra Beauty 40 Marsha P. Johnson 42 Julie Cromer

20 Betsey Johnson

WHO, WHAT, WEAR

46 In the Spirit of Sustainability 48 To Mask or Not to Mask

32 The Science of Shades

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table of contents

78 Fast Fashion Apocalypse

MIDDLE OF THE BOOK

54 Dadaist Subculture Fusion 66 Data-Driven Fashion 78 Fast Fashion Apocalypse 88 Feast on Extravagance 94 Society’s “Ideal” Body Types Through the Ages

CAMPUS CASUAL

88 Feast On Extravagance

102 Which Dismantled Political Party Are You? 104 Which First Lady Are You? 106 Garments Gone Global

118 Personal Passion

Through Queer Fashion BACK OF THE CLOSET

110 Tattoos and the Taboo 114 Clothing Doesn’t Constitute Consent 118 Personal Passion Through Queer Fashion 124 The Myth of Bra Burning 126 Diamonds in the Rough 128 The Fashion of Athens 130 The Othered Women 134 IGF: CHNGE 138 IGF: Hot Chicken Takeover 142 Rant/Rave: Fast and Affordable Fashion

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HAUTE ONLINE Looking for a new internet obsession? Whether you want to listen to podcasts or watch some videos, we’ve got you covered virtually.

SONNY ANGELS “He may bring you happiness,” “An angel boy that will give you healing and make you smile”.

With slogans like that, how could you not be obsessed with Sonny Angels! Sonny Angel has had a surge in popularity ever since TikTok has placed a big spotlight on the blind box company.

Each blind box contains a small little angel boy with all different kinds of headgear, and in some cases cute outfits as well, depending on the series. There is a wide variety of animals, but there is also a vegetable, fruit, flower, and sweets series! While most of them are posed standing up, they do offer a “hipper” series where you

can stick them to your phone, computer, photo frames, plant pots, etc. My coworkers introduced me to Sonny Angels, and some days I don’t know whether to thank them or curse them. I told myself I was only going to buy one, but that has now turned into four adorable little angel boys. I have the alpaca, the peacock, the mouse hipper, and my personal favorite: the lop ear rabbit. The next time you are looking to buy yourself a little treat or even just find a little happiness, I highly recommend you give Sonny Angels a chance (if you can find them, they sell out everywhere fast)!

You can blame me when you become addicted.

- GRACE AUBLE

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haute online

MIDJOURNEY Midjourney is a program that generates AI images from text prompts. I have found Midjourney useful in assisting me in my classes and work for Thread. It allows me to explore ideas when I am conceptualizing a design or illustration. I can type in the most outrageous text prompts and within a minute, Midjourney generates images that bring my vision to life. I can generate customized and stylized reference images that inspire me and assist in creative ideation. Sometimes when I enter a text prompt, the images generated are completely unexpected. I like that about Midjourney,

because even when it gives me something I didn’t necessarily want, the stuff it comes up with usually leads me down a fun, exciting and imagination-fueling rabbit hole. Another cool aspect of Midjourney is that you can browse other people’s generated images and see the exact prompts they used to produce them so you can try them yourself! Some of my favorite constraints to add to my prompts are –niji, which causes the images to have an anime-esque aesthetic, and –style raw, which results in less beautified and more naturalistic images.

- EMMA MCADAMS

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“TAKE ME HOME, COUNTRY ROADS” The beloved song takes on an ethereal sound with Lana Del Rey’s cover of Country Roads. On Instagram she debuted the release of the song saying, “I think we’ve about covered all of those back roads in the last seven months and its really been somethin. But there’s so much more to see.”

With a year full of art, a new album release, and touring the world, Lana reflects on the journey with her version of John Denver’s timeless tune.

The song’s message of love and longing for a simple way of life resonates with people all over, including “wild at heart,” Lana.

I’ve always enjoyed Denver’s song, but ever

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since I got a taste of the beauty of Appalachia, the song has taken on a deeper meaning. I see Athens as a second home that has taught me to explore art, nature, and the community around me. I love the lore surrounding Athens and the places that breathe the stories. Driving your car through the windy roads leading you to the mountains of West Virginia (especially during the fall) gives the feeling of awe. Lana’s smokey voice adds a beautiful tone to the song about the glorious mountains and a longing for home.

- SAMANTHA KRUSE

haute online

A GUIDE TO 2023’S MAKEUP TRENDS As the year comes to a close and all the fashion trends this year are going out, let’s take a look at some of the top makeup trends from 2023. To start, we all know the rage and love for blushes that resurfaced this past year. Some top cosmetic brands for this trend were RareBeauty, Glossier, and Elf with their stellar liquid formulas and sticks. Of course we can’t blush without our signature lips! Amongst the younger generation we saw a rise in lip liners paired with a nude lip

and gloss come to light. Products like NYX’s lip liners in espresso were not able to stay on shelfs for long! And what’s a subtly bold lip without its metallic eyes? According to Vogue, futuristic metallic shadows were a staple on runways and in the eyes of the public. To pair with these eyes, the sharp eyeliners only got sharper and more fierce with time and we’re sure it is not going away any time soon.

- ALEXIS KY

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Find out the top five things that our exec board is inspired by right now.

CARAMEL BRULÉE LATTE It’s the beginning of real winter, and with the frigid wind blowing in my face in the morning while I walk to class, I often need a pick-me-up.

The caramel brulée latte from Starbucks usually does the trick. Although this latte is only available during the Christmas season, this is a beautifully crafted drink that I love to enjoy all year round. A simple order of a latte with two pumps of caramel syrup and two pumps of white chocolate mocha sauce will do the trick to enjoy this fan favorite even when it is not in season.

This drink brings fun and festivity to the mornings when it’s hard to get up. Although it can be a little pricey to afford this drink every morning, it can serve as a nice little treat when times get hard, especially during the holiday season when it spreads a little extra Christmas cheer. I started drinking this sweet caramelized concoction two years ago when the holiday drinks came out at Starbucks and have never looked back since. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

- GABRIELLE CABANES

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top five

WHITE WINE In the grand scheme of alcoholic beverages, white wine tops them all. There are several types to choose from—Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Moscato, Sauvignon Blanc (my personal favorite), and more—each with a distinct but delicious taste.

Plus, white wine can be dry or sweet, sure to please anyone’s tastes.

But it’s not just about the taste of white wine that makes it great. It’s the versatility that really stands out. Wine is perfect for literally any occasion in which alcohol is socially acceptable to drink. Light hang out with friends? Pour yourself a glass or two and unwind with some conversation and a movie. Pre-gaming for fests? Drink straight from the bottle to give it a little edge. I’ve even been known to bring white wine to parties I’ve attended and drink it there.

White wine also pairs incredibly well with a variety of foods, including white meat, seafood, and a plethora of snacks. So whatever the occasion—whether it be a friendly get together or a serious dinner— white wine will be there for you to enjoy.

- RYAN MAXIN

HOZIER’S “UNREAL UNEARTH” Nine times out of 10, if you were to ask me “What is influencing your work right now?” I would respond with some type of music. Right now, I’m super into Hozier’s new album “Unreal Unearth.”

I’ve been a Hozier fan since I first heard “Take Me To Church” in middle school, so a new album was very welcome. He has a voice and an approach to lyricism that you don’t hear often, and for that reason, I think he’s a fantastic, one-of-a-kind artist.

Ironically enough, one of my favorite songs from the album is “Son of Nyx,” which is entirely instrumental, yet extremely moving. As someone who was a band kid in high school and currently listens to movie scores to study, I always appreciate the artistry and emotion that goes into music with no lyrics at all.

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RIBBONS My current obsession is with ribbons; they are by far my favorite trend. They are the perfect accessory to spice up any outfit. I like to put them in my hair, tie them around my waist to make a belt, and use them as shoe laces. When given the chance, I will put a ribbon on just about anything.

I love how easy it is to use a ribbon to spice up the most simple outfit. I usually go for a neutral or jewel-tone ribbon, preferably with lace details.

I love lace ribbons because they can add an interesting texture to an otherwise plain outfit.

Tulle ribbons also have this same effect on an

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outfit. Crochet ribbons are another favorite of mine. I am someone who loves to crochet, so being able to make my own ribbons is the best feeling. My latest project is a crochet ribbon garland for my dorm. It is so easy to make and adds so much personality to my space. Ribbons do not only have to be used as an accessory.

They make for adorable home decor, like the garland I am making. I also like to tie ribbons around flower vases. I think it makes the flowers look so much more lovely.

- NATATLIE SCHOOLCRAFT

top five

GILMORE GIRLS I love getting the opportunity to talk about any form of entertainment, more specifically around this time of year. This season is absolutely the time when everyone is seeking a comfort TV show, movie, or even album that they can fixate on for the colder months. My current fixation and absolute comfort is “Gilmore Girls.” I am definitely late on the bandwagon of this TV show since it’s an obvious fan favorite and classic TV show, but better late than never! There is something super comforting to me about old TV shows and the way the acting and filming make me feel like a kid again.

“Gilmore Girls” is the perfect portrayal of comfort with a storyline following a mom and her

daughter living in a small town where everybody knows everybody. It’s the kind of town that you’d imagine in a snow globe. I love it when a storyline isn’t too serious and can be picked up and left off sort of whenever and that’s exactly what it’s like with “Gilmore Girls.” I think it’s comforting now more than ever getting to see constant family interaction and love at a time when I don’t get to see my family as often being away at school. The show definitely has a reputation for embodying the fall and winter months of the year and I can definitely agree that’s the truth.

- HUNTER GIBSON

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Editor’s Note Hello, Threadies! I’m so excited to be sharing our second issue of the year with all of you. This issue, we wanted to expand our horizons and jump into the controversial world of politics. While we are typically labeled as a fashion and culture magazine, we wanted to explore the expansive world of local, national, and international affairs.

“The Politics of Fashion” issue highlights how everyday fashion directly impacts the world of public affairs. The culture surrounding something as chaotic as politics can be more engaging than certain laws or beliefs themselves.

Additionally, we wanted to show off how the fashion industry itself can become political. The issues of sustainable fashion and representation of businesses owned by people of color are just two examples of how disputed the world of fashion can become.

This is an unexpected issue for Thread, as we have covered serious topics that we have never before. It was a challenge for both our editorial and creative teams, but it was one that established immense growth. I’m so lucky to have been a part of that development.

We highlighted both America Ferrera (P. 22) and Prince (P. 24) in our Seams section. Both celebrities made huge impacts on the fashion industry by challenging the norms they grew up with. We also feature women such as Marsha P. Johnson, an early advocate for LGBTQ+ rights.

We explore how both students and local residents are making an impact on the Athens community.

Bobcats make an impact through sustainable clubs on campus (P. 46), and Athens political figures show their passion for fashion (P. 128).

Thread takes on more difficult topics this issue, some which may be triggering to readers. Nevertheless, we want to do our part as a student publication to feature these important stories. Our editorial team examines the history surrounding Queer fashion (P. 118), and historical moments such as the bra burning movement. Our managing editor, Tate Raub, also highlights the topic of victim blaming through clothing (P. 114).

Our Middle of the Book shoots for this issue are anything but ordinary. Each shoot reveals a different aspect of society standards, and breaks their boundaries. “Dadaist Subculture Fusion” blends together culture and current events through the chaotic artform (P. 54). “Data-Driven Fashion” translates AI prompts into visually engaging realities 12 | THREAD

(P. 66). Consumerism takes over in “Fast Fashion Apocalypse,” (P. 78). We learn that all that glitters is not always gold in “Feast on Extravagance,” (P. 88).

Finally, we explore past “ideal” body types through the ages in “Six Looks We Like,” (P. 94).

“The Politics of Fashion” could not have come together without the help of the amazing staff. I’m so grateful to everyone who contributed to this issue.

Whether it was through editorial work, contributing to the photoshoots or managing the business side of the magazine, everyone lent a helping hand.

I want to especially thank our business manager Hunter Gibson, creative director Meg Rees and managing editor Tate Raub. Without these three people, we would not have such an organized thoughtful process creating this magazine. I also want to thank our art director, Grace Auble, who will be leaving Athens to study abroad in Italy next semester.

We hope to break the stereotype of what Thread is and expand any expectations our readers may have.

It is emotive and chaotic, just like the world of politics.

This message has been approved,

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Hannah Campbell MANAGING EDITOR Tate Raub CREATIVE DIRECTOR Meg Rees BUSINESS MANAGER Hunter Gibson ART DIRECTOR Grace Auble EDITORIAL COPY CHIEF Ryan Maxin SEAMS EDITOR Gabrielle Cabanes DIY, WWW, & CC EDITOR Mimi Calhoun FEATURES & BOC EDITOR Alex Imwale EDITORIAL STAFF Arielle Teppert, Abby Joyner, Emma Erion, Avery St. George, Kitty Crino, Olivia Rohling, Layne Rey, Disha Hoque, Bridget Rexhausen, Jackson McCoy, Claire Schiopota, Payton Daugherty, Avery Tyla

DESIGN DESIGN DIRECTOR Kim Langhirt ILLUSTRATION DIRECTOR Emma McAdams WEB EDITOR Carly Hart DESIGN STAFF Hadley Fain, Cassidy Woods, Sophia Cianciola, Tanner Vance, Emily Becker, Carly Hart, Maddie James, Emma McAdams, Nicole Bell, Gretchen Stoner, Gabby Champion, Avery Callison ILLUSTRATION STAFF Zoe Cranfill, Cassidy Woods, Ethan Clawson, Nicole Reese, Maddie James, Mia Pishotti, Alaina Dackermann, Carly Hart

PHOTO PHOTO CHIEF Tati Alston PHOTO EDITOR Aliza Dutt PHOTO ASSISTANT Naima Wolfe CREATIVE ASSISTANT Hadley Fain TECHNICAL DIRECTOR Abbey Sucher PHOTOGRAPHY STAFF Zennia Lam, Kali Knudson,

Naima Wolfe, Henry Day, Morgan Clark, Hannah Campbell, Nicole Bell, Kitty Crino, Ella Calhoun, Zoe Cranfill, Maddie James, Meg Rees PHOTO EDITORS Meg Rees, Emma Snyder-Lovera

THREAD MAGAZINE

MULTIMEDIA MULTIMEDIA DIRECTOR Kat Frazier VIDEO EDITOR Logan Jefferies MULTIMEDIA STAFF Audri Wilde, Maggie Must, Lauren Key, Jeanie Stanton, Nicole Bell, Emily Skipworth, Ross Jeffers, Ella Huelskamp, Carly Hart, Sean Terrel, Emma Henry, Jenna Skidmore

FASHION FASHION DIRECTOR Kendall Bergeron ASSISTANT FASHION DIRECTOR Natalie Schoolcraft MAKEUP DIRECTOR Alexis Ky FASHION STAFF Lexsi Hawkes, Sophia Parrillo,

Alice Hesmondhalgh, Abby Joyner, Presley McCoy, Bella Bolinava, Kitty Crino, Carmin Barcus, Lee Gilbert, Maria Segui, MJ Bline, Ali Alshihabi, Patricia Rios, Erin McEwen, Kadance Shepherd, Jhasmine Glass, Noelle Flarey, Natalie Schneider, Amaya Serbia, Emma Snyder-Lovera, Zennia Lam, Ava Hutchison, Emma Erion, Ross Jeffers, Cassidy Lakes, Afua Agyapong, Reese Brockman, Ella Franks, Fiona Slaymaker, Morgan Clark, Leilani Mcdevitt, Tanner Smith, Isabella Jeronimo, Audrey Riyadi, Izze Kaukonen, Jon Nagel, Ryan Kennedy, Salma Youssef, Viviana Franzini, Avery St. George, Maxwell Burton, Lauren Grisoni, Abbey Kates, Abby Jenkins, Sixto Manrique, Rose Andews, Aditya Sahi, Ray Henderson, Olivia Rohling, Garret Buzzelli, Jayla Neal, Thomas Tran, Olivia Martin, Veronica Savitski, Riley Clark, Lauren Staigers, Grake Cobb, Aanya Datta, Dina Mavrakis, Kaycee Cook, Emily Canter, Alexia Ashley, Mackenzie Price, Leah Ziegler

BUSINESS PUBLIC RELATIONS CREATIVE Kae Walther PUBLIC RELATIONS SALES Molly Wilson EVENT PLANNER Samantha Kruse SOCIAL MEDIA Juliana Colant BUSINESS STAFF Andy Reyes, Emma Hedges,

Natalie Jonson, Viviana Franzini, Carter Lutz, Alex Cunningham, Lila Newman, Catalina Litts, Andrew Ryan, Emily Becker, Emma Snyder-Lovera, Sylvia Diaz, Tess Altier, Morgan Robinson

@THREADMAGAZINE

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EXECUTIVE

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BOARD

2023 2024

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SEAMS

From the runway to the streets, and everywhere in between, here are this seasons’s most soughtafter trends.

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Runway Realway

Beate Karlsson

BY ARIELLE TEPPERT PHOTOS BY ZENNIA LAM DESIGN BY HADLEY FAIN

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eate Karlsson’s collections are known to turn heads and make significant statements. The same stands with her AVAVAV Fall and Winter 2023 clothing release titled “Fake It ‘Til You Break It.” To start the show, a bag broke at the end of the model’s walk. Following that, another model’s pair of heels broke in half. After the visor of a cap fell off, the audience concluded that this was on purpose. Clothes were unpinning themselves while being worn, revealing the model’s bare legs and undergarments, which left Karlsson’s fans questioning why the clothes were falling apart.

In an interview with HYPEBEAST, Karlsson said, “I’ve been asking myself; why is luxury so serious? Is it because we strive to be perfect?

Could bad quality still be luxurious? The last collection was all about keeping up a fake projection of wealth and the personal failure of losing face when this illusion crashes. I’m still on that theme, there’s something very interesting about shame and what happens when we are vulnerable. I asked myself; what is the most embarrassing thing that can happen to a fashion house, and I figured garments breaking might be it.”

Karlsson truly dissected the problematic industry of fast fashion and commented on the, “superficiality of fashion” with this collection.

Karlsson aims to be transparent with the fact that fashion is not perfect, and things will go wrong. The fashion industry wants to portray the clothing and models to be perfect, which is never the case. Through the vulnerability and honesty in the “Fake It ‘Til You Break It” collection, Karlsson aims for outsiders to be more open to fashion and the effects it has on the world around them.

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RUNWAY REALWAY

Betsey Johnson

BY ABBY JOYNER PHOTOS BY TATI ALSTON DESIGN BY CASSIDY WOODS

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or her entire career in the fashion industry, Betsey Johnson has been inspired by lively, expressive and youthful girlhood. From the Youthquakes in the 1960s to the New York City punks of the 1970s, Johnson’s name can be found next to uncommon fabrics and patterns, bright colors, and avant-garde silhouettes to create a look that can only be described as quintessentially Betsey.

Leopard print, neon pink, and big, costumelike silhouettes inspired by her childhood as a dancer and cheerleader categorize the curated youthful look Johnson conveys in her collections.

According to The New York Times, Johnson, “doesn’t follow fashion trends and is rarely taken seriously as a designer by her peers or the fashion magazines,” which is what makes her brand so unique; she fully marches to the beat of her own drum and shows little desire for approval of her success. In doing so, she engages in a political discourse within the fashion industry: must everything be taken so seriously? Rejecting fashion traditions allows Johnson to liberate herself from the unspoken rules and regulations of high fashion industries and simply have fun with clothing.

One of the defining characteristics of the Betsey Johnson brand’s is the affordability of the clothing lines while still being well-regarded in high fashion spheres. Currently, bold pink and animal-printed dresses run from $99-$149, and rhinestone sneakers and boots are priced from $89-$349.

Another signature of the brand is the cartwheel Johnson performs down the runway. It marks Johnson as a prolific member of the fashion community who broke boundaries by expressing herself through her clothing.

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In her Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear collection, Betsey Johnson rolled out various prom-inspired looks from the ‘50s through the ‘00s. Through this collection an entire span of the designer’s work can be viewed through her girly candy-colored lens, taking inspiration from the years of her childhood up until the modern day. Pastel pops of color, stripes and polka dots, big bows, flower crowns, and, of course, lots of pink walked down the runway in this collection. It is classic Betsey: bold, flashy, and eccentric.

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CELEB STYLE

America Ferrera

BY EMMA ERION ILLUSTRATION BY MIA PISHOTTI DESIGN BY SOPHIA CIANCIOLA

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merica Ferrera gave arguably one of the most iconic movie monologues of the year when she discussed the trials and tribulations of womanhood in “Barbie.” Ferrera’s feminism transcends the silver screen, though, as she was named one of Glamour Magazine’s 2023 Women of the Year for her dedication to social justice and advocacy. Her nonprofit, “Poderistas,” is a digital community created by and for Latinas to inspire them to use their power within their own communities and throughout the world. Ferrera’s red carpet style reflects her confidence and strength and has evolved greatly since she got her start in the hit dramedy “Ugly Betty.”

In 2007, Ferrera completed the television awards “triple crown,” earning the Golden Globe, the SAG Award, and, finally, the Emmy. She became the first Latina woman to ever win the Best Lead Actress Emmy, and she told Variety she wasn’t even aware of the milestone until after she had won.

“That’s really special, and regardless of what happens that can never be undone,” said Ferrera to Variety. While accepting that award, Ferrera wore a gown leagues away from the outrageous outfits the titular Betty wore. The cobalt, ruched, figure-hugging gown was created by Filipino designer Monica Lhuillier and is now a part of Latino history.

Ferrera’s current style has evolved with the times and still reflects her confidence and her role as one of the most prominent activists in Hollywood. It features lots of neutrals with bold silhouettes, with the occasional power suit thrown into the mix. Many of her recent outfits also involved various shades of pink, a homage to Barbie’s classic color, as have many of her other co-stars.

Even years after the end of “Ugly Betty,” Ferrera has still cemented her place as both a fashion and feminist icon in Hollywood, channeling her values into each stunning piece she wears.

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Celeb Style

BY AVERY ST. GEORGE PHOTOS BY KALI KNUDSON DESIGN BY TANNER VANCE

P R N C E

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There is no denying Prince had a profound impact on the music industry, as his songs are still well-loved and listened to today.

Sometimes, though, the lasting effect of his style on the fashion industry is overlooked.

At the peak of Prince’s fame, the United States was having a major resurgence of conservative ideals spurred by the election of Ronald Reagan. Reagen’s presidency ushered in a time period of social conservatism in which those who supported traditional family values and gender roles were very outspoken. Typical clothing at the time for male celebrities mainly consisted of denim, plain shirts, and a basic suit or tuxedo.

The trailblazers in men’s fashion, along with Prince, were singers like David Bowie and Elton John who were very eccentric and expressive with their style both on and off the stage. Prince in particular was — and still is — known for the gender fluidity of his style, which incorporated both feminine and masculine aspects into his striking image.

When most people think of Prince’s signature look, they think of patterned suits, ruffled shirts, and feathered boas. Those are definitely some of his most memorable looks, as they continue to inspire those with more androgynous styles today. Prince also wore more feminine pieces, like crop tops, jewelry, and high heels, which broke a lot of the gender norms at the time and had a lot of people questioning what men could and couldn’t wear.

Challenging gender identity was something Prince did almost every time he stepped out on the stage or a red carpet. With his brightcolored and patterned jackets and trousers, he stood out against the traditional male celebrity. There’s no denying Prince’s fashion legacy still lives on, today as he continues to inspire androgyny in fashion as well as a flamboyant and eccentric style.

His legacy as an artist lives in his personality, music, and overall confidence, which is seen as a beacon of light for a lot of young people struggling to find their identity. So while “Purple Rain” will be played for decades to come, Prince’s legacy will also live on as an influence for young people trying to discover their own personal style.

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Wear to Show You Care

BY KITTY CRINO PHOTOS BY NAIMA WOLFE DESIGN BY EMILY BECKER Accessorizing enables individuals to include personal expression and flare to any outfit. An often overlooked accessory is one that has the ability to shine a light on nearly any aspect of being. Pins can capture a person’s entire identity, from displaying an individual’s pronouns or sexual orientation to showing support for the causes and organizations they value. Political pins are timeless accessories and are the simplest and most stylish way one can display their pride.

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Dating as far back as 1789 to the first presidential inauguration of George Washington, Americans could be seen sporting small metal pins with the saying, “Long live the President.” It was not until the 1960s that the public took creative matters into their own hands and produced pins that supported or disdained opposing candidates with no boundaries.

Buttons that strayed from those otherwise produced by the presidential campaign members themselves were described as “grassroots buttons,” or buttons of the working class, made by the common people. Pins such as these rose to popularity once again around the time of the 2016 presidential election, and they were just as subversive as they were made out to be in the ‘60s.

Today, pins possess the ability to speak for unspoken matters and can display a sign of safety to others. Charities utilize the production of pins to raise awareness for the cause they support; political parties produce pins pertaining to specific issues, elections, and political figures in an effort to broaden their audience.

For members of the LGBTQ+ community, a pin can be a symbol of visibility and signify a safe space or being. Powerful messages can be expressed within such a small surface area; a pin is an accessory that carries weight while upholding personal values, an accessory that is a sign of the times. Pins open the door for conversations to be had. They encourage connections and they create communities.

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Fashionably Safe

BY OLIVIA ROHLING ILLUSTRATION & DESIGN

BY CARLY HART

It is important to always be aware of what is going on when being out in public. Women specifically are always told to not walk home alone at night, share their location with a trusted friend or family member, and so much more.

Thankfully, there is an inconspicuous way women can feel safe walking alone at night and more: self-defense jewelry.

A relatively new fad, self-defense jewelry allows for versatility. It can be cute and discreet but also allows the person wearing it to feel safe and secure.

A popular example of self-defense jewelry is self-defense rings. These rings can be found on Amazon and Defenderring.com. They’re not only cute, but also have a sharp point as the focal point instead of a gem. This point won’t cause serious damage if accidentally touched, but certainly can when used with enough force.

A more common and even more inconspicuous type of self-defense jewelry is necklaces that track the wearer’s location and share it with people of the wearer’s choosing. These can be found on Amazon, Etsy, Walmart, and more. If one is wearing the necklace and is in need of

help, most necklaces only require two taps on the charm that will notify loved ones of your choosing of your location via text. The wearer can also enable a 911 feature for the necklace if they feel that is also needed for them.

If one is more into wearing bracelets, Amazon sells a discreet pepper spray bracelet made of silicone. To the naked eye, it looks just like a normal silicone armband, which is perfect for remaining under the radar but still feeling safe.

If one is not into wearing jewelry at all, fear not, as Amazon sells hair clips that have a similar purpose. These hair clips are relatively small and have a sharp edge that can be used to cut through materials such as rope or seatbelts.

These hairclips come in both black and silver and are made of high-quality stainless steel.

Self-defense and keeping one’s hair out of their face aren’t the only uses of these hairclips. They can also be used as a flathead screwdriver and a ruler. Being out in the world can be scary and overwhelming, and college is no exception.

Safety is always of the utmost importance, and self defense jewelry is the perfect way to remain protected while also being stylish.

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The Science of the Shades

BY LAYNE REY PHOTOS BY HENRY DAY DESIGN BY TANNER VANCE

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I

n 2017, inclusivity in the makeup industry began to take priority following the release of Fenty Beauty’s 40 foundation shades and 50 concealer shades, which was record-breaking at the time. Different makeup brands have since begun launching their own inclusive lines, but is it really possible to create a foundation line that will swatch perfectly on any skin color?

Foundation mixing pigments are colored foundations that mix with a typical foundation in order to achieve the perfect color match.

Popularized by L.A. Girl, its line of pigments comes in four colors: white, yellow, orange, and blue. Color theory, or the study of how colors work together, has shown that these colors are effective in adjusting foundation shades to better fit any individual’s skin tone.

The white pigment operates as assumed — it lightens the foundation. If the foundation is simply too dark, adding white pigment will help. Also, foundation can be costly, and being able to lighten up any preferred foundation for the colder months is not only inclusive but resourceful. At $10 per color, this is an affordable solution to a common problem faced in the winter.

If a more golden undertone is needed in order to match a skin tone, adding the yellow pigment is necessary. Foundation can have too much of a pink or olive undertone, which makes the skin look dull. In order to brighten up the makeup base, finding the correct amount of yellow pigment to add can create a completely new foundation that better fits the skin tone.

The orange pigment functions in opposition to the white pigment. If a warmer undertone is needed, especially for medium and dark shades of foundation, adding orange pigment is key. This functions similarly to the trend of bronzing drops, which simultaneously darkens and adds warmth to any moisturizer or foundation. Incorporating a warmer undertone can be helpful in the hotter months, as tans may develop that change the desired shade of foundation.

Blue, in any sense, is used as a neutralizing color. Adding the blue pigment to foundation cancels out any unwanted warmth or orange coloring. Many foundation lines leave customers stuck between two shades, as one is too light 34 | THREAD

and one looks too orange. This can directly solve that problem and allow for the line to unknowingly expand to additional skin tones.

Though L.A. Girl sells a foundation with the same base formula as the pigments to ensure consistency, these pigments can be used with any foundation. In fact, they can be extremely useful for traveling or production makeup artists, as it is hard to guess the shade for each individual. This way, incorrect shades can be adjusted according to color theory with the pigments.

The science behind color theory being implemented in the beauty industry to create a more inclusive environment speaks to progress made in the makeup industry and the potential society has to make every space more inclusive.

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Pyra Beauty The Radiance of Being Real

BY ARIELLE TEPPERT PHOTOS BY MORGAN CLARK DESIGN BY HADLEY FAIN

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ature is a beautiful thing that deserves to be appreciated and preserved in its rarest form. Pyra Beauty uses its cosmetics to do just that.

Founder Angelica Romero used to work inside a salt mine located in her home municipality of Zipaquira, Colombia. There, she realized how special it is to be surrounded by nature each and every day. Romero wanted to create a cosmetic line that makes people, “discover [their] most radiant self through Earth-derived ingredients.”

Each product uses plant-based ingredients without compromising the formula or results.

All cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and are infused with coconut and shea butter. Pyra Beauty makes it clear it, “wants to inspire others to become closer to the planet by experiencing plant and mineral-based cosmetics in biodegradable packaging.”

“Life on Mars Loose Powder Vegan Illuminator” retails at $18. The cosmetic is a blush and highlighter hybrid, enhanced by a rose gold tint.

The powder blends with no streaks and is fully buildable. You can create a bold and glamorous look, or a subtle and natural look with this product. This powder keeps your skin glowing and moisturized.

“Heavenly Loose Powder Vegan Illuminator” and “Gold Rush Loose Vegan Illuminator” showcase the same beautiful shimmer but in different shades. All powders are TALC-free and come in recyclable packaging.

“Fresh Face Talc-Free Vegan Setting Powder” retails at $32. This cosmetic helps control natural oils, boost your skin’s collagen, and prevent aging and redness. This product is paraben-free, phthalates-free, talc-free, and fragrance-free.

Lastly, the “Sun kissed: Aloe + Shea Butter Foundation” retails at $36. This product is a fan favorite because it comes in 40 shades and is sensitive skin-friendly. This plant-based formula includes vitamins A, C, and E, which helps minimize rosacea, dark spots, and acne over time.

Pyra Beauty makes the point one size never fits all. There is something made for everyone. An online quiz will help the client find their shade and the product that best fits their skin. Unsurprisingly, Pyra Beauty’s inclusive environment makes for great reviews on all products. The cosmetic line truly inspires everyone to create their own magic.

Marsha P. Johnson WRITTEN BY ABBY JOYNER ILLUSTRATIONS BY EMMA MCADAMS DESIGN BY MADDIE JAMES

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n June 28, 1969, the Stonewall riots began in New York City. This historic moment catapulted the fight for LGBTQ+ equality in the United States. At the forefront of this movement was Marsha P. Johnson, an AfricanAmerican transgender woman.

Johnson was born on August 24, 1945, in Elizabeth, New Jersey. Despite being assigned male at birth, Johnson enjoyed dressing up in women’s clothing from a young age. However, this love of feminine clothing had ramifications for Johnson, as she lived in a Christian household.

The harsh criticism she faced from family and classmates for her gender expression caused Johnson to move to New York City alone after graduating high school. According to the National Women’s History Museum, Johnson only owned, “one bag of clothes and $15,’’ when she moved out. In New York, she struggled to stay financially afloat and was often homeless. She resorted to sex work to make ends meet and ultimately began working as a drag queen in LGBTQ+ clubs on Christopher Street, a well-known outlet for queer nightlife at the time.

It was in these clubs that Johnson found her community. In a 1992 interview, she said, “I was no one, nobody, from Nowheresville until I became a drag queen.” After joining the queer scene, she changed her name to Marsha P. Johnson. These spaces allowed Johnson to express herself free from judgment. She was crafty, fashioning all her own costumes for performances. These would be made of thrift-store finds, yet still evoked elegance, vibrancy, and passion. In one photo, the activist dons draping gold fabric, grandiose gold earrings, a red feather boa, and a chic tilted black hat, reminiscent of a Schiaparelli model.

Her iconic flower crown features a plethora

of colors and speaks to the colors and joy associated with pride in the queer community.

Johnson became heavily involved in LGBTQ+ activism, fighting for rights for transgender individuals, especially those of color. Despite the welcoming community she found within the queer spaces of New York City, the rest of the world still did not accept her identity. Her existence was seen as a political statement. She was often arrested by police. When questioned by the police, her catchphrase, “pay it no mind,” was coined, which she says the “P” in her name stands for. Thus, when the riots and protests at the Stonewall Inn on Christopher Street began, Johnson could be found leading the charge against queer oppression.

Alongside her friend Sylvia Rivera, a Puerto Rican transgender girl also struggling through the dangerous streets of New York, Johnson motivated many facets of the gay rights movement in America. She co-founded STAR, the Street Transvestite Action Revolutionaries, with Rivera. This organization provided aid to transgender youths in California, Chicago, England, and New York City.

Johnson’s advocacy persisted through the 1970s and 1980s as she continued to speak out against injustices against the queer community, especially regarding the AIDS epidemic. Her work is the reason Pride parades still exist in the 2020s.

Tragically, on July 6, 1992 at age 46, Marsha P. Johnson was found dead in the Hudson River. Through her enthusiastic activism and unrelenting desire for better treatment of queer individuals, she was a revolutionary for the LGBTQ+ community and her work continues to push the momentum to fight for LGBTQ+ equality today.

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Julie Cromer

believing in bobcats first

BY LAYNE REY PHOTOS BY PROVIDED DESIGN BY EMMA MCADAMS

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s the daughter of a former professional athlete and coach, Julie Cromer has experienced her fair share of the sports arena outside of herself. Cromer grew up in a small town in central Missouri where she would later attend Missouri State University and discover her passion through her job in their athletics department: sports administration.

In 2019, she became Ohio University’s first female director of athletics. Since then, Ohio U’s athletic success has grown tremendously.

Under her short but impressive tenure, her decision-making and leadership have helped PHOTOS CREDIT: JOSEPH RADHIK the 2022 football team earn the title of MAC 42 | THREAD

East Champions with its first 10-win season since 2011, the 2021-22 men’s basketball team win the Mid-American Conference Tournament for the first time in nine years, and the 2023 soccer team make its first-ever NCAA Tournament appearance.

In fact, over the summer, Women Leaders in College Sports recognized Cromer as the NCAA Division I FBS Nike Executive of the Year for such achievements.

With that, Cromer’s commitment to the value of higher education and the specific benefits she has noticed at Ohio U deepen her role as director of athletics. When recruiting students

for their inherently athletic talent, Cromer recognizes that they have primarily been identified by the world as athletes. Her role allows her to shift this identity to one of a student-athlete where they too will receive a highly personalized education, as is embedded in the culture of Ohio U. “So to come to a place like Ohio University where you can find your whole self, if you will, and curate an experience around that—it’s just a really extraordinary opportunity and a special place to be,” Cromer said.

“Anything the Bobcats are playing right now is my favorite sport to watch”

JULIE CROMER

This doesn’t go unnoticed. Under Cromer’s tenure, the NCAA recognized five Ohio U teams in 2020 for their outstanding academic achievements: women’s basketball, field hockey, women’s golf, soccer, and swimming and diving.

Through this role and other external experiences—like her position as co-chair of the NCAA Transformation Committee, in which she is able to have a direct impact on the future of collegiate athletics—Cromer has found the benefit of being resilient. She believes that winning, within the context of sports or not, is a process.

“It requires a lot more than showing up on the day of the contest and thinking that you’re going to win,” Cromer said. “So, the discipline and commitment to that process and understanding that when you have a setback, what is most important is that you get up and take a step forward…sports teaches us that on a daily basis.”

It is clear that Cromer is a passionate, dedicated individual who is also able to seamlessly integrate her job with her home life. When not moving through each demanding day of administrative meetings, external engagement with donors or sponsors, and touching points with studentathletes, Cromer is found in the stands or on the sidelines because “Anything the Bobcats are playing right now is my favorite sport to watch,” she said.

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WHO, WHAT, WEAR A glimpse into some of Athens’ most captivating people, places, and events.

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In the Spirit of Sustainability Bobcats Make an Impact Through Community Service

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BY DISHA HOQUE ILLUSTRATION BY MEG REES DESIGN BY AVERY CALLISON

s the effects of climate change become more eminent globally, Bobcats have risen to the challenge of combating these effects by increasing sustainability efforts around campus. With multiple student organizations dedicated to spreading environmental consciousness and action, Ohio University’s student leaders have been focusing on leading a less-wasteful lifestyle in hopes of making a greater impact on the planet.

A large contributor to the recent growth of student awareness of environmental issues is the launch of the Sustainability Network at Ohio U. The student-run organization was formed last spring in hopes of bringing different environmental clubs together through common goals. Sustainability Network is not necessarily another club students are able to join, but instead a center for resources and networking for different organizations and initiatives around campus.

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Samantha Holdaway, a junior studying environmental studies, is hoping to continue the positive influence the network had on Ohio U students last semester.

“A big part of why (Sustainability Network) started was that a number of us had noticed that there was a lot of overlap between sustainability groups on campus but not necessarily a lot [of] coming together and working together,” Holdaway said. “So rather than multiple groups holding really similar events, the idea is to bring them together to help collaborate on those events and then also just get the word out.”

The network works with multiple sustainability organizations around campus such as Ohio U’s Sunrise Movement chapter, which works to implement Green New Deal legislation locally, as well as the Sierra Student Coalition chapter, which organizes student involvement in environmental efforts both locally and nationwide.

Another campus initiative aiming to reduce waste produced is Ohio U’s Clean Closets, which offers fashion enthusiasts, environmentally conscious shoppers, or students looking to clean out their closets a space to bring in used clothing and exchange it with other students.

Started last spring by Riley Jensen, a junior studying forensic chemistry, the organization has a relatively straightforward concept. Members bring their unwanted clothes to meetings and are able to trade with others. This mutual exchange limits Ohio U’s landfill contribution, and offers students an easy and inexpensive way to update their closets.

Clean Closets began after Jensen noticed a lack of accessible second-hand shops on campus.

“I know a lot of people have the same issue where they’re like ‘I have 3,000 outfits I did not

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mean to bring to campus, but I don’t know what to do with them,’” Jensen said. “So I was like, ‘well, this might be a good idea.’”

With the limited access to eco-friendly resources that come with living on a college campus, Clean Closets is a way for students to reduce waste.

“Being on a college campus leads to a lot of plastic waste,” Jensen said. “I feel like having an opportunity for [students] to be sustainable in a way that doesn't cost a lot of money is a way for them to actually feel like they're making a difference.”

Jensen’s idea of a low-maintenance way to reduce waste and help the environment is mirrored in the Sustainability Network’s goals as well. Caden Hibbs, a junior studying economics and Co-Chair of the Sustainability Network, emphasizes that participating in seemingly undemanding activities can make a larger impact.

“[Ohio U has] organizations such as Plant Club, Bobcats Go Green, [and] Climate and Sustainability Ambassadors,” Hibbs said.

“All three of them are very low-commitment organizations, but they do attract a lot of passion because their projects really do help out the Athens community. Picking up trash, having bike valets, little stuff like that — it can go a long way.”

Ohio U’s student body’s increase in commitment to environmentalism and sustainability is leading to changes around campus, but much work still needs to be done.

With upcoming events and campaigns hoping to further improve Ohio U’s sustainability efforts, getting involved with a sustainability effort around campus is as easy as following Clean Closets’ Instagram or emailing the Sustainability Network. Student leaders in sustainability are making it possible for Ohio U students to make an impact that is felt far outside of Ohio U’s campus.

Instagram: @ou_cleanclosets Email: Sustainabilitynetwork@ohio.edu

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TO MASK OR NOT TO MASK Is Everyday Masking Still Necessary?

BY BRIDGET REXHAUSEN PHOTOS BY HENRY DAY DESIGN BY PAMELA JOHNSON For many Western countries in 2019, it would have been unfathomable to step outside in a facial covering. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic of 2020, this became the reality for many.

Masks have existed for years, far beyond the most recent pandemic. They had an array of uses, from entertainment to cultural value to avoiding pollution. In early 2020, a new type of mask found its way to the forefront of the global market. Cloth masks, made by large retailers, designers, and individual Etsy shops, were everywhere following the shortage of N95 masks.

Now, almost four years later, what’s next for face masks? The global pandemic may have altered public perception of masking, but the future of these practices has become very complicated.

NEW NORMAL OR NEVER AGAIN?

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A LIFELINE FOR RETAILERS During the global shutdown of 2020, factories were no exception to halting operations, and clothing retailers struggled for profit. Many of the latter turned to masks as a way to pad their bottom line, according to Lisa Williams, a Ohio University professor of instruction in retail and fashion merchandising. “[Masks] did help with some production that couldn’t be done in factories because the factories were shut down,” Williams said.

Out of this arose the very popular cloth masks that were so commonly seen in the two years following the initial outbreak. As a result, these masks became a fashion statement in addition to a necessity of a new reality.

“I think there’s a lot more customization and different style options,” Noor Hamidullah, a first-year design student at Kent State University, said.

The excess of options made it easy to remain fashionable and express oneself, even while practicing safety measures.

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NEW NORMAL OR NEVER AGAIN? Prior to the COVID-19 outbreak, many Asian countries, notably Japan and Taiwan, had been masking for nearly two decades already.

According to Voice of America, Japanese norms have long supported masking when feeling unwell in order to prevent the spread of any illness. Taiwanese citizens have also warded off sickness through masking but also can be found sporting masks to prevent sunburn and avoid inhaling polluted air.

Conversely, no such norm has or does exist in Western culture, even after the 2020 pandemic. While not as popular, some students do continue to mask, notably Taylor Robinson, a third-year creative writing major at Ohio University.

“It varies [about masking preferences], mostly I just wear to class or places where I know it’s going to be quite crowded, and there’s been campus colds going around,”

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Robinson said. “I’d rather avoid that if I can.”

When asked about masking at Kent State University, Hamidullah also cited flu season and common illnesses as reasons for continued masking. Hamidullah mentioned fashionable masks are often made of cloth, but many, including Robinson, prefer the N95 masks, because they are specifically for medical use.

“Those masks, from a textile science background, are not as effective in preventing the spread of the virus [as N95s],” Williams said. “They are good if you are sick yourself, and then it keeps any water particles that you might cough or sneeze from going to somebody else, but it doesn’t necessarily protect you.”

Despite adding flair to an outfit, fashionable masks require some improvements to become a viable alternative to their N95 counterparts.

who, what, wear

THE FUTURE OF MASKS So, where do face coverings currently stand in the U.S.? Robinson and Hamidullah each said it would be nice to see this norm catch on, with Williams sharing the sentiment.

“I think that most people are not going to be producing the masks anymore unless it comes down from the runway where designers are incorporating masks with beads or jewels or something like that,” Williams said. “If celebrities are wearing them, then I think common, everyday people will probably continue to wear masks, but I don’t think it will be as prevalent unless another health crisis arises.”

Unless more people get behind the idea of masking when sick, it seems that masks, even the fashionable ones, are not here to stay.

Masks have been on the decline since COVID-19 regulations were rolled back in 2022. As flu season approaches, there may be a rise in individuals choosing to mask to protect themselves, though. Cloth masks might not be as effective as N95 masks, but they can still reduce the spread of germ particles while allowing everyday tasks to be completed. Choosing to wear a facial covering is an individual choice, and it’s still there for each person to make for themselves.

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MIDDLE OF THE BOOK A look into Thread’s creative shoot concepts.

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Contribute

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DATA-DRIVEN FASHION Translating AI Prompts into Visual Realities PHOTOS BY KITTY CRINO DESIGN BY GRETCHEN STONER

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fast fashion apocolypse Dystopian Reflections on Consumerist Society PHOTOS BY ELLA CALHOUN DESIGN BY MADDIE JAMES

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FEAST ON EXTRAVAGANCE Expensive Taste isn’t Always so Good

PHOTOS BY HADLEY FAIN DESIGN BY CARLY HART

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Six Looks We Like

SOCIETY’S “IDEAL” BODY TYPES THROUGH THE AGES

BY ALEXIS KY; NATALIE SCHOOLCRAFT & KENDALL BERGERON PHOTOS BY ZOE CRANFILL DESIGN BY CARLY HART

We wanted to cover ideal body types from a wide range of time. We can see that at least at one point in time, every body type was an ideal.

As we move forward with history, we see more body shapes being identified as beautiful and we agree.

Even if your body type does not fit the ideal body of today, it is still beautiful in the timeline of history.

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Ancient Greece The ideal female body type revolved around the looks of Aphrodite and the food you could afford. Therefore, women with soft curves, round buttocks, and a larger bust were more than ideal. Red hair was all the rage as well.

Victorian England During this time period, women were expected to have a cinched-waist while still remaining curvy, so corsets were worn underneath garments. The inspiration from this time period came from Queen Victoria.

Women were all expected to achieve this same look which was nearly impossible and something we still struggle with today.

Italian Renaissance To have full breasts and a round stomach was the ideal beauty standard of this time.

Pale skin with high foreheads and rosy cheeks were also the epitome of beauty.

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The 1920s The 1920s were distinct in their idea of “the ideal woman.” Prior to this decade, full-figured and/ or hourglass bodies were all the rage. However, the 1920s praised a “boyish” figure — a small waist, small hips, and a small bust. This was spurred on by a variety of factors, including rapidly growing mass production and therefore, mass advertisements geared toward how women “should” look.

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Golden Age of Hollywood In the golden age of Hollywood, women were expected to have an hourglass figure. This body type is very different from what we saw in the 1920’s. Women were no longer expected to have boyish figures and instead expected to have an hourglass shape — a large bust, tiny waist, and curves. Marilyn Monroe and her rise in fame influenced this ideal body type at the time.

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The 2020s The 2020’s are generally marked by their acceptance of all bodies.

Thanks to the body positivity movement, we are seeing women of all body types being featured in the media in the same respect for the first time ever. Plus-size, midsize, and muscular women are more frequently being featured in the media without being the butt of a body shaming joke or stereotypical trope. It is a step in the right direction.

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CAMPUS CASUAL Light-hearted reads for the quiztaking, listicle reading spirit in all of us.

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Which Dismantled Political Party Are You?

BY EMMA ERION ILLUSTRATIONS BY ALAINA DACKERMANN DESIGN BY EMMA MCADAMS

What is one word your friends would use to describe you? a. Spunky b. Outspoken c. Chaotic d. Peaceful What does your ideal Friday night look like? a. Going out to parties b. I can’t take time off from studying c. Wreaking havoc by prank-calling your friends d. Staying in with a good book Which is your favorite emoji? a. The teacup b. The stack of books c. The fiery heart d. The angel Which female pop star is your current favorite? a. Olivia Rodrigo b. Sabrina Carpenter c. Lana Del Rey d. Taylor Swift

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What is your favorite drink? a. Twisted Tea b. Coffee c. Vodka Redbull d. Tea

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IF YOU PICKED MOSTLY AS, then you would be part of the Boston Tea Party! You probably have a large friend group, and your phone is constantly blowing up with hundreds of notifications. You can’t resist a good night out, even if it’s a Tuesday. You are super passionate about everything that you do and are ready to dive head-first into any project.

Some might say you’re a little too enthusiastic, but you know that’s what makes you, you.

IF YOU PICKED MOSTLY CS, then you would be a member of the Anti-Administration Party.

This party’s main platform was opposing the Constitution and organized government — they truly loved chaos, and you do too. You are always the one who is coming up with the craziest plans for your friends, and you go on spontaneous trips constantly. You sometimes take it a little too far on nights out, but you always get your act together the next day.

IF YOU PICKED MOSTLY BS, then you would be part of the Bucktail Party! This party was created by Aaron Burr to oppose Governor Dewitt Clinton.

The members of this party put a lot of effort into calling out Clinton’s policies, just like how you put a lot of effort into any cause you are supporting.

You probably ran plenty of bake sales in high school to make money for whatever club you were president of, and now you champion causes you care a lot about. You have a tendency to hold grudges sometimes, but your friends know that you will always have their back no matter what.

IF YOU PICKED MOSTLY DS, then you would be part of the Prohibition Party. These people opposed the sale of alcohol, and just like you, didn’t really enjoy going out. You are a self-proclaimed homebody who loves to snuggle up and have a good selfcare night. You plan movie nights for you and your friends and always come up with the most unique activities to do. You have a small but close group of friends and you wouldn’t trade it for the world.

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Which First Lady Are You?

BY OLIVIA ROHLING ILLUSTRATIONS BY MIA PISHOTTI DESIGN BY EMMA MCADAMS

You’re really hungry and are thinking about what to make for dinner. What do you end up making? a. A hearty salad with fresh greens and radishes from the garden b. Chicken parmesan c. Cold-poached salmon with green beans on the side d. Pizza You’re looking in your closet for a sweater to wear. What color sweater do you end up wearing? a. Purple b. Blue c. Pink d. Red You’re looking for an accessory to add to your outfit to add a fun touch. What do you add? a. Pearl earrings b. Anything with sparkles c. A pink hat d. A flannel You need a job. Where do you apply to work? a. A restaurant to be a cook b. A school to be a teacher c. A publishing house to be an author d. A private medicinal cannabis store 104 | THREAD

You’re looking to adopt a dog! What breed do you get? a. Portuguese water dog b. German shepherd c. Welsh terrier d. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

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Mostly As? You are most like Michelle Obama!

Mostly Cs? You are most like Jackie Kennedy!

While her husband, Barack Obama, was in office, Michelle was busy with her “Let’s Move!” campaign, which strived to encourage clean eating among young kids and limit childhood obesity — hence the hearty salad for dinner. Michelle was also the proud owner of a Portuguese water dog named Bo.

Jackie Kennedy was the embodiment of class.

She is best known for the classy pink Chanel suit she happened to be wearing on the day her husband, John F. Kennedy, was assassinated.

Jackie loved salmon and was also a prolific writer.

Mostly Bs? You are most like Jill Biden!

Mostly Ds? You are most like Nancy Reagan!

Jill Biden — wife of current U.S. President Joe Biden — has her undergraduate degree in English and her doctorate in educational leadership. Jill taught English for many years and continues to teach today. Jill and Joe are also the proud owners of a German shepherd named Major.

Nancy Reagan, having been born in New York, was an avid pizza lover. Wife to former U.S. President Ronald Reagan, Nancy was best known for her “Just Say No” campaign, which strived to keep kids off drugs and promote education about drugs.

Garments Gone Global How Foreign Affairs Affect Fashion

BY MIMI CALHOUN

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ILLUSTRATION BY EMMA MCADAMS

ith so many countries and cultures around the world, there are bound to be differences in what people are wearing and the meanings behind their fashion choices. Though clothing can be as surface level as simply what one wears every day, it can also go beyond that and have strategic and underlying significance. In a time in which fashion and style can be used as a statement and influence, it’s important to recognize how people are utilizing it to take a stand.

Helena Wu, a junior music major at Ohio University from Hong Kong, mentioned how the color black was utilized during the 20192020 Hong Kong protests. The demonstrations occurred over the government’s introduction of a bill to amend the Fugitive Offenders Ordinance in regard to extradition, which meant the Hong Kong government and other Asian countries such as Taiwan, mainland China, and Macau would potentially have mutual legal assistance when it came to a transfer of fugitives.

Many protestors wore the color black as solidarity against the bill, as it caused domestic and international criticism. Fear stemmed from China’s ability through the bill to arrest those who speak out and disagree with the Chinese government in Hong Kong.

“It’s just all black, maybe with the yellow ribbon,” Wu said when discussing the clothing choice of protestors. She also said that although COVID-19

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DESIGN BY GABBY CHAMPION

halted protests for a while, the connotations of the color choice still have consequences in the region, as those seen wearing all black may be stopped by police forces.

Similar to the significant use of black in Hong Kong, the colors of blue and yellow have been associated with the Russo-Ukrainian War. Yulia Dmitrieva, a graduate student in film at Ohio U who is from Russia, said she and others utilize those colors as a subtle way to support Ukraine without actively going to protests.

“I think the police caught on fairly quickly,” Dmitrieva said. “You would start getting arrested, but there’s definitely a rise of people consciously choosing those colors in clothes and also altering makeup and trying to incorporate it as an attempt to support a protest.”

Dmitrieva said the color green is also associated with opposition to the war, as people have tied green ribbons around the city in public areas in an “underground” type of protest.

While colors can play a political part in fashion, how a person presents themselves can also be an indicator of what they believe and how they want to be perceived. Expression through things like tattoos and piercings is becoming more common, but there are still people and places with strong opinions about them.

Hibiki Komazawa, a graduate student at Ohio U studying communication and development studies who is from Japan, said that although both younger and older Japanese people alike

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are OK with piercings, the younger generations are more interested in tattoos despite the elders’ dislike. She also explained how the country dresses more conservatively with less exposed skin.

“I think Japanese people are scared of wearing what they want because they are afraid of being judged by people,” Komazawa said. “It’s because they also judge what other people wear.”

“I think Japanese people are scared of wearing what they want because they are afraid of being judged by people, It’s because they also judge what other people wear.”

Hibiki Komazawa When it comes to customs and traditions of different places, societal expectations and unspoken rules have influenced the fashion game and how people dress. However, as the world and time progresses, the boundaries of what clothing can be and stand for will continue to evolve and leave an impact on future generations.

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BACK OF THE CLOSET An in-depth look at today’s most buzz-worthy topics.

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Tattoos and the Taboo

BY LUCY RILEY ILLUSTRATION BY MADDIE JAMES DESIGN BY EMMA MCADAMS

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back of the closet

“YOU’LL NEVER GET A JOB LOOKING LIKE THAT.” There are many of those common criticisms of tattoos, hair colors, and piercings. The status quo has ruled out body piercings, tattoos, and colored hair in the professional world for a rather long time.

Taboo is such a scary word. In the past decade, there has been a large shift in the way bodily modification is viewed and regarded in the hiring process. There is a newer surface of focusing on the well-being of employers, with corporate bodies focusing on mental health. However, this focus varies from employer to employer. The main cause for concern is image and public opinion; there are plenty of companies that hold back on allowing their employees to express themselves through their physical appearance.

Delaney Williams, a current employee of Panera and past manager at Chipotle, said she found Chipotle to be more lenient toward piercings, tattoos, and hair colors. Her time working for Panera has been slightly different, as the company is more concerned about the physical appearance of their employees.

Williams said one of her Panera coworkers with a septum piercing must wear a mask until it heals so she can conceal the piercing, Williams said.

Williams said she thinks Panera takes careful concern with the image of the company.

Piercings seem to be what holds the biggest issue for companies, but hair and tattoos have caused quite an uproar in the workforce as well.

Williams said in the past, “unnatural” hair colors were banned for Panera employees, but recently, the company has been more relaxed.

Similarly, she said tattoos that could be seen were also previously banned.

“Now, I think, you’re allowed three showing and no face tattoos,” Williams said.

Even hiring and professional companies like Indeed provide advice for all of these modifications on its website, offering some advantages and disadvantages one's piercings could bring. They also promote how tattoos, piercings, and different hair colors can promote creativity and individuality.

Caeley Grady, a former Ohio University Outdoor Pursuits employee said there have been vast differences in hiring processes for the places she has worked. She explained most places she has worked there were not many issues brought up regarding her piercings, saying that any issue Grady faced was not directly stated, but more brought up in comments.

Working for a university program, Grady had many college-age students working with and for her. She said when working in an environment where there are so many people with piercings or tattoos, they start to become second nature.

With more and more college-age students being bejeweled with piercings, tattoos, and multicolored hair, it is no surprise the workforce is slowly becoming more and more adaptable to these changes.

Grady said in almost all industries there has been a more accepting view of bodily alterations.

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“I have friends who are nurses, and now they have almost full sleeves of tattoos,” CAELEY GRADY

“I have friends who are nurses, and now they have almost full sleeves of tattoos,” Grady said.

She added that it is a very prominent shift, considering even 10 years ago it was not as “professional” to have a nose piercing or a septum piercing as a nurse. A career field as prestigious as the medical field is changing to the current expectations.

The rules and regulations of different bodily modifications have varied for decades, still being completely non-negotiable in some cases.

Certain careers hold very strong limitations such as government jobs and military service.

For example, to serve in the United States Coast Guard, only two piercings are permitted on the ear; they must be inconspicuous and only pierced on the lobe. Policies regarding tattoos are even stricter.

Hair coloring can be easily forgotten in the mix of piercings and tattoos. However, hair is more likely to be what stands out the most. Whether bright pink, light blue, or animal prints, hair tends to speak before you do. With hair colors and styles, the rules may be more unspoken than spoken. Stories of people wanting to finally achieve that perfect bubblegum pink look, yet sometimes the perfect shade isn’t so perfect to others. Previously the “unnatural” look was seen as unprofessional and too eye-catching.

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With your brown hair, you may have been a desirable candidate, but there is still a possibility of someone else getting the job since you dyed your hair that beautiful blue. Williams said there is a tricky balance between image and public opinion coming back to haunt professionalism. In her early days as a Panera employee, she said the idea of “unnatural” hair was an extreme faux pas.

Now the company has slightly less severe rules, and to dye one’s hair, it is asked you approach and ask a higher-up before doing so.

While some careers have remained more conservative in their practices, there are still a great deal of companies and career fields that have come to change with time. As younger generations get older, the impact of Millennials and Generation Z entering the workforce has pushed this effort along.

As a young person who has held many positions, Grady said the influence of younger generations has been integrated into the workforce. Younger people progressing into management positions has greatly influenced the hiring process, she added.

“Now there's a change in how younger people are in management, so then that also trickles down to it being more acceptable,” Grady said.

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Clothing Doesn’t Constitute Consent How Victim Blaming Affects Survivors of Sexual Violence

BY TATE RAUB

EDITOR’S NOTE: This article discusses sexual violence. Three of the sources mentioned in this article, Meredith, Jane, and Jenna, are survivors of sexual violence and are using pseudonyms to protect their identity.

What were you wearing?

When survivors of sexual violence share their stories, this is a common response they receive.

Why did you drink so much? Why did you go home with them? Why didn’t you fight back?

Inquiring about a survivor’s clothing — or asking any of the other aforementioned questions — after they’ve experienced something traumatic is a major reason why survivors don’t report their assault, according to the Sexual Assault Centre of Edmonton, or SACE. Jane, an Ohio U student who is remaining anonymous, was sexually assaulted during her junior year of high school. Being young for her grade and 15-years-old at the time of the assault, she said she didn’t realize what had happened until she talked to her best friend about it, which prompted her to talk to law enforcement.

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ILLUSTRATIONS AND DESIGN BY EMMA MCADAMS

what kind of clothes I was wearing,” Jane said.

“But at that time I was just wearing basketball shorts and a t-shirt … it [didn’t] make any sense.”

This diversion of blame and disbelief in response to a survivor’s story is known as victim blaming, which SACE defines as, “someone saying, implying, or treating a person who has experienced harmful or abusive behavior (such as a survivor of sexual violence) like it was a result of something they did or said, instead of placing the responsibility where it belongs: on the person who harmed them.”

Many survivors never tell anyone they were assaulted, but those who disclose their story to someone may wait to do so for a variety of reasons, according to the Jackson Health System. This includes feelings of shame, fear of not being believed, feelings of uncertainty, guilt, and avoidance. Victim blaming can introduce or amplify these feelings.

Taylor Ebert and Kaitlyn Urbaniak, Ohio University graduates and full-time advocates with Ohio U’s Survivor Advocacy Program, or SAP, are constantly at the helm of an effort to encourage more students to be involved in discussions about sexual violence.

“Society has tried to tell survivors it was their choices, their actions that they made that lead to these actions,” Urbaniak said. “Instances of sexual violence occur because someone wants to exert power and control over another … survivors are not responsible for these instances happening and we shouldn’t be making excuses for other people’s behavior.”

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, or the CDC, reports one in four women and one in 26 men are survivors of sexual violence. One in three women and one in nine men report being sexually harassed in public.

In May 2013, Jen Brockman and Dr. Mary

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Wyandt-Hiebert of the University of Arkansas attended a conference held by the Arkansas Coalition Against Sexual Assault, at which they read Dr. Mary Simmerling’s poem, “What I was wearing.” Brockman and Wyandt-Hiebert were so moved by the poem that, by June 2013, the pair had conceptualized the very first exhibition of “What Were You Wearing?” It was displayed in honor of Sexual Assault Awareness Month the following April.

In the months leading up to the opening of the installation, Brockman and Wyandt-Hiebert conducted personal interviews with student survivors at the University of Arkansas who volunteered to share descriptions of the outfits they had on when they were assaulted. The outfits were then recreated with clothes donated to the installation by the university’s local Peace At Home Thrift Store in Fayetteville, Arkansas.

Presented by Ohio U’s Women’s Center, Housing and Residence Life, Counseling and Psychological Services, and Office of Health Promotion, “What Were You Wearing?” was displayed on campus for a second time on November 16. It was previously on display in the Trisolini Gallery in Baker University Center in 2018.

This time, Ebert and Urbaniak decided the exhibit should be outdoors. From 9 a.m. until 4 p.m., the outfits displayed were hung on clotheslines in Paw Print Park behind Nelson Commons.

In typical Ohio fashion, what would have normally been a cold November day was full of warm sunshine and a light breeze that moved through the outfits, each one asking those walking by to hear its story.

“I probably read those descriptions and looked at those outfits five times each,” Ebert said.

“Seeing it displayed in a place where students walk through and seeing these are normal clothes these people are wearing to class … was really empowering but also very emotional.”

To prepare for the exhibit, Ebert and Urbaniak went through each survivor’s story and corresponding pieces of clothing to make sure everything was accounted for, especially the outfits directly provided by survivors. Many of the outfits are recreations of what survivors described in their stories, but some survivors donated their exact outfits to the gallery.

Montanna Buck, a freshman studying business strategic leadership and management, said

walking through the exhibit could be eye-opening to anyone who has been a perpetrator of victim blaming, especially when it comes to clothes. Buck also said all of the clothes displayed were very casual, but even in situations where a survivor was wearing more revealing clothing, it is still not their fault. “[Survivors] know exactly what they were wearing — the color of things, what they did afterwards,” Buck said. “They never forget those things, so just be supportive of them no matter when it happened or what happened.”

According to the Rape, Abuse, and Incest National Network, or RAINN, women between the ages of 18 and 24 are more likely to experience sexual violence. In fact, female college students between the ages of 18 and 24 are three times more likely to experience sexual violence. Male college students between the ages of 18 and 24 are 78% more likely than non-students to experience sexual violence.

The CDC reports that, among female survivors, more than four in five report being assaulted before they turned 25; nearly eight in 10 male survivors report the same. Between 2018 and 2020, Ohio U reported a total of 122 incidents of sexual violence and 34 offenses of stalking.

Many survivors who experience sexual violence between the ages of 12 and 18 spend years processing their trauma, taking time into their college or college-aged years healing.

Approximately 30% of cases of sexual violence are reported to the police according to RAINN. As a result, additional statistics collected based on reported cases is believed to be low due to how many go unreported.

Meredith, an Ohio U student who is also remaining anonymous, was sexually assaulted her senior year of high school two days before prom. She was assaulted by the person who was supposed to be her date to the dance.

“It was one of those things where I didn’t know how to tell people,” Meredith said. “I went to a Catholic high school and I felt like it was my fault … There was a lot of victim blaming going on.”

Meredith said the people around her started noticing that something was wrong after the assault. Some people approached her to ask if or what happened, but she kept everything to herself for a long time from many people she knew.

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together after she didn’t go to prom. While she did not go to the same high school as her assaulter, she said they had a lot of mutual friends and acquaintances.

Like many other survivors, Meredith was questioned about what she was wearing prior to the assault.

“One of my relatives said something like, ‘Was your skirt too short?’” Meredith said. “I was in my school uniform. I had just gotten home from school … I was wearing a polo shirt [and] a plaid skirt.”

As people learned about what happened, Meredith said a lot of people wouldn’t let her be alone if her assaulter was in the same vicinity as her. She said her friends were amazingly supportive and did all of the things one should do when supporting a survivor.

Meredith said her best friend’s parents were especially helpful. They let her know they were always around to talk about it she wanted to, asked if she needed help with reporting the assault if she chose to, and provided her with survivor resources.

Survivors of sexual violence differ in personal experiences. For Jane, she said the actual reporting of her assault was a negative experience.

Throughout the process, she said she mostly spoke to one detective, but it felt like the police were listening to her because they were following protocol — not because they believed her.

Shortly after Jane reported her assault, her assaulter was arrested for sexual violence against someone else.

“It actually made me really mad because it showed me right there that [the police] didn’t trust me,” Jane said. “I just felt like they were letting this person go and letting this happen to other females as well.”

Moving forward, Jane hopes schools implement more sex education into their curriculum so people are more aware of what sexual violence is and discourage it from an earlier age. She said because of how young she was and because sex education was not taught at her school, simply knowing more about what sexual assault is could have caused her story to be a lot different.

RAINN also reports 21% of TGQN — or transgender, genderqueer, and nonconforming — college students are survivors of sexual violence.

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LGBTQIA+ college students are significantly more likely to experience sexual violence than their heterosexual and cisgender peers, according to the American Psychological Association.

Jenna, an Ohio U student whose identity is being protected, was a 14-year-old freshman in high school when she was repeatedly assaulted by her girlfriend at the time.

Prior to the assault, Jenna said her ex-girlfriend would frequently touch her without her consent.

The pair did theater together, and one particular day left Jenna especially frustrated while they were working together.

“I was so f—--- upset with her I hit her, and I immediately regretted it,” Jenna said. “I was apologizing so profusely and nothing would fix it.

I understood that, and I understood I had broken her trust and there wasn’t anything I could do about that. But after that, things were never really the same.”

Jenna said she and her ex-girlfriend would regularly sleepover at each other’s houses. This was where the assaults began.

“That went on for about four or five months and I thought I deserved every second of it,” Jenna said.

“I couldn’t do anything. No amount of saying no, no amount of saying stop … I’ve been in therapy now for five years, and I can confidently say I have gotten over pretty much all of it, but that doesn’t make it any less hard.”

Neither Jenna’s parents nor her ex-girlfriend’s parents knew they were together. As a result, Jenna felt she could not tell her parents about the assault for fear of getting both herself and her ex-girlfriend in trouble. To this day, Jenna has not told any of her family members what happened.

Jenna said she did not experience victim blaming by other people, but her internal blame led her to wear a hoodie and leggings every day so she would not draw attention to herself.

It’s important to not view survivors of sexual violence as victims, but rather let them know you are there to talk about what they went through with patience and at whatever extent they feel most comfortable with, Jenna said.

“Almost every survivor we’ve ever worked with has some sort of feeling of self blame and guilt and shame,” Ebert said. “That’s a large thing they have to work through regardless of what they were wearing or what they were doing at the time of the incident.”

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Ebert and Urbaniak both said it’s important to let survivors know there is someone ready to support them and to never ask questions like, “What were you wearing?” Questions and statements that victim blame survivors worsen the internal guilt they are already experiencing. Simply telling a survivor you believe their story and that what they went through was not their fault is the best way to go.

“One person telling them it wasn’t their fault — they’ll remember that,” Ebert said.

If you or someone you know is a survivor of sexual violence, call the National Sexual Assault Hotline, 1-800-656-4673, go to https://www. nsvrc.org/survivors, or refer to Ohio University’s Survivor Advocacy Program at https://www.ohio. edu/survivor.

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Pe

Through on

P l a a s n si o s r

QUEER FASHION

BY JACKSON MCCOY PHOTOS BY MADDIE JAMES DESIGN BY CARLY HART

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The world of fashion has long seemed like a welcoming professional space for LGBTQ+ people, but that hasn’t always been the case for all queer folks.

In recent years, with more women, nonbinary individuals, and people of color rising to prominence in the fashion world, it is becoming more welcoming to something that has played an integral role in its foundation: queer fashion.

The concept of queer fashion usually revolves around the defiance of traditional ideas of gender roles and sexuality, but the actual styles and trends that fall into this category are everchanging. Fashion historians cite figures ranging from Joan of Arc to Chevalier d’Eon as prominent historical figures who wore clothes defying their assigned gender’s societal roles at a time when this was uncommon.

Ohio University is no stranger to queer fashion. With a thriving LGBTQ+ presence on campus and in Athens, students are given the opportunity to express their own identities through their clothes.

Seeing students expressing themselves, their sexualities, and gender identities through their style can be a major green flag for newcomers to Ohio U. Laila Christian, a freshman studying music composition, has seen queer fashion on campus since she arrived in late August.

“I see a lot of people walking around Athens and their little friend groups, and you can clearly tell that they’re queer,” Christian said. “In their Doc Martens and their cardigans … you just kind of know. Yeah, it’s not a vibe — it’s a way that people present themselves.”

Professors at Ohio U — both straight and otherwise — have also noticed queer fashion trends on campus. Dr. Kelly Ferguson, an associate journalism professor, has noticed many of the clothes she sees students wear in her classes hide features that would identify their gender assigned at birth.

“I see [students] layering very clunky, baggy clothes that sort of take away [their silhouettes],” she said. “I don’t know if you have shoulders or breasts or hips or whatever because you’re just dressing in this loose kind of post-pandemic jammie fashion.”

For many people, identifying specific aspects of queer fashion is hard. It might even seem arbitrary; why put limits on your ability to express yourself? The point of queer fashion is expression, so placing a strict definition of what is and is not included in it is contradictory to what many feel is central to its theme.

That is the case for Rosie Mogford, a sophomore studying sociology at Ohio U. They use their own style to share clothes they like, and whether that aligns or defies a gender norm is not as important.

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“I identify as nonbinary even though I’m AFAB (assigned female at birth); I still associate quite closely with femininity,” they said. “I feel like in my personal expression, I like to present femininity in a way that isn’t quite so traditional.”

Many high fashion brands have made queer visibility and style a major part of their runway shows. While the world of fashion has always been welcoming to white gay men, it hasn’t always been welcoming to POC, women, and nonbinary models and designers. However, brands like Batsheva, Puppets & Puppets, and Collina Strada have made it a point to include models across the gender identity and body type spectrum and cast more diverse models.

Queerness in the world of high fashion is interesting to some, but it often has much less of an impact on people than streetwear. Dr. Edmong Chang, an English professor and Women, Gender, and Sexuality Studies affiliate professor at Ohio U, said he appreciates many aspects of everyday queer fashion.

“I’m really interested when people mix together things that are just doing funky weird things,” Chang said. “A little bit of, ‘I’m just going to add 120 | THREAD

a touch of something.’ Anything that has a lot of volume. So like giant wraps or shawls or big scarves or house dresses, muumuus, kaftans, all that stuff.”

Several designers have taken these ideas of queer fashion and made it their own, providing people with unique streetwear options. Victor Barragán uses edgy patterns to compliment their flowy designs, and their 1990s-inspired pieces give people of all identities a variety of options.

Nicole Zïzi’s commitment to sustainability and providing a livable wage to her employees is a proud stance against fast fashion, and her designs are even more authentic because of it. The queer-owned brand Chromat provides swimwear and athletic wear for LGBTQ+ individuals of all body types and brings unisex designs to a sect of the fashion industry that often emphasizes traditional gender expectations.

Though actually defining queer fashion may be difficult, spotting style icons in the genre is not.

From Kurt Cobain donning a patterned dress in the ‘90s to André Leon Talley’s flowing capes to Gregg Araki’s campy outfits in his films, there is no shortage of inspiration.

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Ohio U students and faculty cited a number of their own first-pick partakers in queer fashion.

Actors like Billy Porter and Marlene Dietrich are fan favorites, and musicians Janelle Monáe and David Bowie were also mentioned. Celebrities often bring visibility to queer fashion, and their red-carpet appearances often provide LGBTQ+ individuals with someone to look up to and draw inspiration from.

However, more celebrities who do not identify as queer have begun wearing queer fashion.

It has led to an upward trend of cisgender, heterosexual people wearing clothes and accessories that are traditionally worn by the queer community.

While that is not an inherently bad thing, many people who identify as queer have mixed feelings on the subject. There is often a differing societal reaction to straight people partaking in queer fashion than there is to LGBTQ+ people doing the same.

“My problem with queer fashion becoming mainstream is that it’s becoming a very specific type of queer fashion,” Mogford said. “I feel like a lot of AMAB (assigned male at birth) people have

their little pearl necklaces on and I’m happy for them. I’m happy that traditional masculinity isn’t all that’s expected from people. But it’s definitely a little bit frustrating because, especially as a girl, if you dress in a way that’s not expected of an AFAB person, you’re faced with a worse reaction.”

Indeed, the pearl necklace example is very prominent. In queer spaces, pearl necklaces were usually worn by people of color. Most notably, Marsha P. Johnson was often adorned with pearls. Now, pearl necklaces are worn by white men; Harry Styles, Shawn Mendes, and Vinnie Hacker have all taken part in the pearl necklace trend.

The concern from LGBTQ+ people is that the contributions made by queer activists and people of color will be forgotten. The most popular influencers are held in high esteem for doing things with their clothes that queer people have been doing for years, and are often the ones considered to have started the “trend.” People like Grace Jones, Little Richard, and Antonio Lopez have been doing these things for decades, yet they’re very rarely talked about outside of queer spaces.

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This is not to say that all straight white men wearing pearl necklaces are doing something wrong, or that straight people who wear queer fashion have an easy time. Even straight men wearing clothes and accessories usually reserved for queer people receive pushback from people with conservative ideas of what gender should be.

All people wanting to wear queer fashion still have to have a level of awareness of what environment they are in when deciding what to wear.

“I think people are still very conscious [of what they are wearing],” Chang said. “This is true of all clothes and all presentations, right? Are you in a space where it is accepted? Or are you in a space that’s safe enough for you to do it? I’ve seen so much social media around straight cisgender men getting so much flak. For example, just painting their nails … it would be really great if we lived in a world where people just wore clothes.”

Queer fashion often works as more than just a way to express oneself, though. Historically, different piercings, boots, and many other things have been used by queer folks to tell people in the LGBTQ+ community how they identify. While non-queer people often assume the modern-day equivalent of this is Pride Month paraphernalia, that is not the case.

“I feel like we’ve defined ourselves through our styles so much that you can easily look at someone and tell, ‘Oh, they’re queer,’” Christian said. “You don’t have to be wearing rainbows and rainbow sunglasses and shirts that say ‘out and proud.’ I feel like through expressing yourself and being creative and just wearing whatever you want, that’s just queer in itself.”

Generation Z is statistically the most queer generation, which has led many people to begin rethinking the idea of queer fashion and what it truly is. Previous generations were forced to have a code in order to hide in plain sight, but Gen Z is lucky enough that this is not necessary. Now, queer folks are left wondering if the term “queer fashion” defines specific styles, if it is just a vibe people give off, or if it even matters.

“To a lot of people, the point [of queer fashion] is to resist identity,” Ferguson said. “What is fashion?

It means you wear whatever you want, right? You should be like a five-year-old kid and just say, ‘Oh, this looks cool.’ We should all just be able to say that if that looks cool to us, we want to wear it. We should all wear it without getting [backlash].”

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The Myth of Bra Burning

BY CLAIRE SCHIOPOTA ILLUSTRATION BY CASSIDY WOODS DESIGN BY EMILY BECKER

The fight for women’s rights is an ongoing battle depicted throughout America’s history, but a closer look shows the physical ways women defend their place at the table. Whether it is for suffrage or space in the workplace, women have shown their perseverance and passion through protesting in some of the most public spaces.

The 1969 Miss America protest in Atlantic City, New Jersey, was no different, but the results of the protest led to wide-ranging misinformation that has held consistent through time.

Despite this distracting myth built by the media, the impact of the protest has empowered many movements since then.

Katherine Jellison, professor of history at Ohio University, said the Miss America protest was led by a group of women from New York who had previously worked on protesting with the Civil Rights Movement. Impassioned by their success, the women decided to

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use the same strategies to fight for their own freedoms. “[The women] would talk and realize that the personal was political,” Jellison said. “That was the slogan of the radical feminists of the 1960s. Maybe jealousy of one another is not a personal problem. It is part of our political and social system … We don’t have to be that way.

We can rethink what it means to be a woman in 1960s America.”

Street theater was a popular form of protesting during the Civil Rights Movement for its direct action and large audiences. The protest was the first time the feminist movement used street theater, and the result was where the braburning myth originated: the freedom trash can.

The freedom trash can served as symbolism for the constraints women felt living in America and the box they felt they were being put into.

They threw items into the can that represented those feelings, like bras and eyelash curlers.

“They had a trash can out here, and this is in Atlantic City, New Jersey, on the boardwalk,” Jellison said. “Because it is the boardwalk, setting anything on fire on this wooden structure was prohibited, so they never lit anything there.”

Though the women may not have lit anything on fire, a story caught flames. The media of the time controlled the narrative of these radical feminists and trivialized their movement through this bra-burning mythology.

Beth Driehaus, a former Honors Tutorial College student at Ohio U who studied under Jellison, followed the media trail for her thesis in 1997.

Driehaus’ research found cable news outlets would dichotomize issues for easy consumption to fit into the short newscast of television in 1969, when 24-hour news was not yet in existence.

“Because they had only 24 minutes, the

crafting of those narratives became more pointed,” Driehaus said. “I think that today’s media does that — the same thing … I think they do it in a way that is specific [to their] channels.”

As newspapers become less popular, Driehaus fears the space to provide thoughtful discourse and analysis, as well as examination of every side of an issue, could fall to the past.

She believes the proliferation of talk radio and social media websites of today could continue to impact perceptions of women’s movements for years to come.

Others, like Kennedy Huntsman, a senior studying political science and women’s gender and sexuality studies at Ohio U, have seen the positive results of the Miss America protests nonetheless.

As Ohio U’s Student Senate women’s affairs commissioner and senator, Huntsman works on Take Back the Night, an annual event at Ohio U designed to promote awareness of sexual and domestic violence through a focus on the survivors’ experience. Huntsman thinks the Miss America protest slogan, “the personal is political,” still reigns true in how people organize protests today.

“There are people who share their stories, who come forward [at Take Back the Night] and tell the most gut-wrenching things … then proceed to march with a group of people who are there to support you,” Huntsman said. “It’s a very personal event, but it’s also meant to be a political statement and a social statement.”

Other women’s protests, in Athens and throughout America, have used similar messaging to share a political statement. Some

have even used tangible items, just like the ones thrown in the freedom trash can. Street theater as a tool of the women’s movement is far from over in protesting to come.

“Today, women protesting in dramatic and high-profile ways is nothing new,” Jellison said.

“I would hope [this would] give them some courage to know that they aren’t inventing the wheel, and there’s a long, proud tradition and maybe we could learn or relearn some of these strategies.”

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Diamonds in the Rough The Good and Bad of Thrifting

BY DISHA HOQUE ILLUSTRATION BY NICOLE REESE DESIGN BY GRETCHEN STONER

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W

ith growing issues of inflation, overconsumption, and concerns over climate change, ethically sourced clothing has come to the forefront of debate and criticism in the fashion industry. Many fashion enthusiasts have turned to thrifting and secondhand clothing in hopes of helping the environment and reducing contribution to unethically produced fashion.

Thrift stores have seen a $14.2 billion growth in annual revenue, according to earthday.org.

With the global secondhand goods market expected to grow 127% by 2026, the secondhand clothing industry is booming.

With the rise in popularity of thrifting, secondhand online shops have also increased in popularity. Websites such as Depop and ThreadUP help consumers find quality secondhand clothing easily at the click of a button and often at a fraction of the original price.

Thrifting can be a much more sustainable and resourceful shopping option for consumers wanting to minimize their effects on the environment, as it helps to lengthen the lifespan of an article of clothing. Increasing the lifecycle of a piece of clothing by just three months helps to reduce the item’s carbon, water, and waste footprints, according to Scientific American.

Prices are also significantly lowered compared to the original retail price, with thrift shoppers saving $1,760 a year on average, according to a survey done by CouponFellow, making thrifting and secondhand shopping much more accessible for teens and young adults.

Along with the environmental and financial advantages of secondhand shopping, thrifting and resell shops allow consumers to cultivate personal style outside of the microtrends shaping the retail world, said Maeve Galla, a freshman studying business administration at Ohio University.

Galla said the increase in secondhand shopping helps to combat the increasing speed in which styles are falling out of trend as well as limit income for unethically sourced brands.

“We’re going through like 12 different phases

each year, which is kind of crazy,” she said. “You can look at a clothing item that was just released a month ago, [which] is now popping up in thrift stores. These clothes aren’t made to last. [It’s] just super frustrating.”

Along with helping to lessen money wasted on short-lived trends, thrifting offers a way to avoid supporting unethically sourced brands as well, Galla said.

“When you’re buying secondhand, even if you’re buying from a brand and are [representing] a brand that might be fast fashion, you’re not buying it directly and you’re saving that piece from going in the landfill,” Galla said.

Taylor Schneider, a junior studying communication studies at Ohio U, said thrifting offers a whole new market of potentially rare and hardto-find pieces and fabrics. Although the majority of items donated or resold in thrift and consignment shops can often be cast off as out of style, finding high-quality or vintage pieces is possible with the right mindset and some luck.

Schneider is a frequent thrifter and finds some of her favorite pieces by shopping second-hand.

She said fitting rooms are essential to her thrifting process.

“I tend to play it safe [rather] than sorry,” she said. “If I think something might be cute, I’ll just throw it in my cart, and I just take the time to try it on.”

Knowing what signs to look for in potential thrift finds is also important when shopping, Schneider said. Looking for pieces with durable buttons, thicker denim, stitched detailing, or notable tags can help determine if a piece is long-lasting or vintage. Rare items are everywhere in secondhand businesses, and having the eye to see these pieces among piles of clothes is half the battle, she added.

“Sometimes you can go to five different thrift stores and find absolutely nothing you like,” Schneider said. “On a different day, you could find some of your best pieces.”

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s American fashion designer Ralph Lauren once said, “Fashion is not necessarily about labels. It’s not about brands. It’s about something else that comes from within you.”

Athens City Mayor Steve Patterson seemed to agree with Lauren, describing his sense of style as “his own.”

City Law Director Lisa Eliason does not consider herself to be a “fashion maven,” but she enjoys having fun with how she dresses for the job.

“I wear a black suit, and then I usually try to

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wear a colorful top underneath it, something that makes it stand out a little bit,” Eliason said.

“I used to only wear black but I figured the older I get, even though I’m in an elected legal position, I can wear some colors.”

Eliason said another way she spices up her outfits is by wearing brooches, such as her hummingbird or bumblebee brooch.

One way Patterson adds to some of his outfits is by wearing meaningful lapel pins.

“I always wear my city of Athens ‘10 years of service’ lapel pin,” he said. “Before the November

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The Fashion of Athens How Local Politicians Spice up Their Wardrobe

BY PAYTON DAUGHERTY ILLUSTRATION BY ETHAN CLAWSON DESIGN BY SOPHIA CIANCIOLA

7th election and before the August 8th special election, I know that I was wearing my Planned Parenthood of Greater Ohio pin on my lapel.”

Patterson said he also wears a pin similar to one Ohio Senator Sherrod Brown wears: a canary in a cage.

The canary in a cage represents union workers and coal miners, where the only safety device used to test air quality was a canary in a cage, Patterson said.

Another way Patterson personalizes his outfits is by wearing colorful shoelaces with his Johnston & Murphy shoes.

“I was in Chicago when I was a brand new mayor and went into a Johnston & Murphy shoe store, and they had really cool shoes that I ended up buying two pairs of…and each one of them came with different colored shoelaces, and I’m going, ‘[Wow] these are cool,’” Patterson said. “I got a pair of yellow ones and red ones and green ones and the shoes came with blue ones and black ones of course; I think I’ve thrown all of my black ones away.”

Though he believes professional dress will make people take him more seriously as a political figure, Patterson said it also has to do with how he presents himself.

“Anyone can throw on a suit and tie, but you know, a lot of it isn’t just what you wear,” he said.

Eliason said she believes people take her more seriously when she is dressed professionally.

Eliason said fashion was a professional consideration even before she became the city law director in 2015. Before that, she was a prosecutor for the city.

“In front of the jury on one occasion, I was doing voir dire, which is when you get a chance to talk to the jurors and you try to find out their biases and prejudices,” Eliason said. “I was up in front of the jury, and back then I used to wear skirts with my suits and of course high heels … one person kept looking at my shoes and I was so uncomfortable that I didn’t put (the person) on the jury … I didn’t want them to be more focused on me than they were on the facts of the case.”

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XOXO

THE OTHERED WOMEN

XOXO

Perceptions of Presidential Affairs

BY GABRIELLE CABANES ILLUSTRATION & DESIGN BY CASSIDY WOODS

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A few notable presidents are known to have had very scandalous and public affairs. Whether it was John F. Kennedy and Marilyn Monroe, Bill Clinton and Monica Lewinsky, or Donald Trump and Stormy Daniels, modern history has seen a fair share of presidential scandals surrounding unfaithfulness in marriage.

Patty Stokes, an associate professor of instruction of women’s gender and sexuality studies at Ohio University, said there is a huge tendency in society to blame the other woman instead of the man.

However, Stokes said Bill Clinton’s impeachment set a new precedent. Although this was not the end of presidential affairs, it proved a president could be reprimanded for his actions.

Lewinsky, the former mistress of former President Clinton, appeared in a TED Talk during which she spoke about the shame she felt during her scandal with the president. According to The New York Times, she spoke about the humiliation she faced in the media with name-calling and slut shaming.

“I think one thing that our society does — and I think it does this more when it’s the man who’s the cheater than the woman — is to blame the other party for decisions that were actually two people’s decisions,” Stokes said. “I think we see that dynamic oftentimes in politics, too, where there’s an attempt to redeem the man.”

Stokes said because of the sexual double standard, female politicians often understand that a scandal like that would affect their careers and their reputations more than if they were a man.

“I don’t want to say I would imagine female politicians to be more ethically or morally upright, but I think they understand the penalties for not putting forth a certain image will be swifter and harsher than they’re likely to be for male politicians,” she said.

Stokes said the blame is also put on the wife of the president no matter what she decides to do, like Hillary Clinton, for example. Hillary Clinton also had political goals, and staying with her husband would’ve helped her achieve those

goals. However, some women shamed her or lost respect for her because she did not stand up for herself.

Chester Patch, a professor of history at Ohio U, said John F. Kennedy’s affairs did not start in the White House, and he was not the first in the family to be accused of cheating on his wife. His father, Joseph Kennedy, was notoriously known for having back-to-back affairs, including one with Hollywood actress Gloria Swanson.

John F. Kennedy’s rendezvous, including those with Marilyn Monroe, were carried out in a house in Santa Monica, which made it easier than going to a hotel. Patch said there was a problem with learning more about the specifics of John F. Kennedy and Monroe because neither of them wrote an account of what happened, so the details were often blurry.

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“One of the problems with the information about Kennedy and his affairs is that we don’t always have the good detail, reliable stuff that we do for other things that he did or even some affairs,” he said. “Marilyn Monroe never wrote an account of any affair she had with John F. Kennedy, so an awful lot of that comes from other people’s accounts, or inferences, and sometimes it’s speculation.”

Jackie Kennedy knew about her husband’s affairs but chose not to say anything. Patch said

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Monroe being seen as a sex symbol resembled the way Kennedy was also seen by the public in different ways. As a result, the one with Monroe did not put his presidency in jeopardy.

“Kennedy was hardly alone in his infidelity at all,” Patch said. “It happens all the time. It happened and it continues to happen. It hurt Jackie for sure.

How you assess it has something to do with the standard you use and the moral compass you carry. When the relationships start to have those kinds of political possibilities and implications,

that’s when it becomes more directly related to his performance.”

Zoe Duncan, a sophomore studying art history with a certificate in women’s gender and sexuality studies at Ohio U, thinks power structure plays a role in why presidents can have affairs without always being reprimanded.

“Imagine being a president and knowing you have all this power and knowing it’s probably hard for people to say no to you,” she said. “I think it definitely has to do with the way gender is

structured in terms of who has power and who doesn’t, and that’s elevated when you have literal political and social power.”

She said it’s important for people to look at their gender biases and how the different parties involved in presidential affairs are portrayed.

“I think we should focus on examining how our gender biases play into the way we view the people involved because I feel like a lot of the times the other woman is unfairly demonized,” she said.

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IN GOOD FASHION

CHNGE

BY AVERY ST. GEORGE ILLUSTRATION BY ZOE CRANFILL DESIGN BY SOPHIA CIANCIOLA

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t’s popular to wear merch that represents one’s favorite band or musical artist, but there has been a recent rise in the wearing of clothes and accessories supporting different social movements. CHNGE is a leading clothing brand in the fashion for change industry, supporting a wide range of issues by using its profits for good. CHNGE donates proceeds from every purchase to different charitable causes, setting it apart from other clothing brands. The company has donated nearly $750,000 to various charities, and this number continues to grow. Some of the causes the brand supports include LGBTQ+ rights, protecting the environment, reproductive rights, and, most recently, helping children in Palestine.

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good cause. In addition to donating profits, the company is focused on the ethical creation of clothing items and the environmental impact the fashion industry has on the Earth. The fashion industry is the second most damaging industry to the environment, second only to the oil industry, and CHNGE is seeking to inspire other brands to adopt more ethical practices. CHNGE is climate-neutral certified, meaning it offsets its own carbon emissions with the work it does to help the environment. The company also has a commitment to renewable energy, using 95% organic fibers in its clothes. Along with the environmental aspect, the company also ensures safe working conditions, fair wages for its workers, and allows employees the right to unionize.

CHNGE believes other companies in the fashion industry should follow these standards to limit the

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impact the fashion industry has on the world. The rise of fast fashion has only increased already prominent problems in the industry, like overconsumption and poor treatment of factory workers.

According to the CHNGE website, “We are creating clothing that will outlive your closet, so you can buy less by buying better.” The company has a commitment to creating sustainable clothing its customers can feel good about wearing for a long time.

CHNGE built its image around transparency.

The company wants its customers to know where its products come from and that what they’re buying is ethical. In addition to this, the company also wants to be socially conscious and create designs that resonate with young people around the world. Some of its best sellers are shirts with “Love Whoever the F— You Want” and “Wom-

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en Don’t Owe You S—” across the front. A lot of young people feel very strongly about particular social movements, so CHNGE clothes are targeted toward prominent causes in youth culture.

Climate change and gun control are also featured causes in CHNGE’s clothes through graphic tees with earthly designs and “Protect Kids, not Guns” shirts.

From its commitment to the environment as well as ensuring rights for its workers, CHNGE is encouraging other clothing brands to follow in its footsteps and take more accountability for their environmental and societal impact.

The company seeks to make a difference in a variety of social issues, and it does so through charitable donations and spreading the word through its clothes. CHNGE is a trailblazer in the fashion industry.

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IN GOOD FASHION

HOT

CHICKEN

TAKEOVER

BY AVERY TYLA PHOTOS BY MEG REES DESIGN BY HADLEY FAIN

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hile visiting Nashville in 2013, Joe DeLoss and his wife, Lisa DeLoss, experienced the city’s famous chicken culture. After falling in love with the taste, the couple became inspired to create their own company.

After multiple experiments trying to come up with a satisfactory recipe, they opened a pop-up chicken window in Old Towne East in Columbus.

They first started out serving friends and family until they finally served their first group of strangers in a parking lot.

This sparked the mission of their company: giving opportunities to those who were in need of employment. Whether that meant they were previously incarcerated or were finding it challenging to obtain a job.

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meaningful benefits, such as financial stability, personal growth, and professional development,” according to the company’s website.

Eventually, the company grew and the couple was able to establish seven locations in the Columbus area and one location in Cleveland.

For its menu, the meat is listed first so consumers start with the main entree. Its meats consist of jumbo tenders, nuggets, thighs, drumsticks, wings—which can be ordered boneless—as well as sandwiches. The restaurant also includes gluten-free options, vegan nuggets, and a kids combo.

After the entree is selected, customers can pick the level of heat for their chicken: southern, mild, warm, hot, holy, and unholy. Mild is “Our most popular! Our medium spice,” Hot Chicken Takeover said.

Last is the side and drink options. The side selection is rather large, allowing consumers to have a variety of options to accompany their

crisp chicken entree. The selection includes waffle fries coated in kosher salt, baked beans, and waffles, smothered in powdered sugar, along with Ma’s mac, Ma’s slaw, and lastly, the creamy chipotle slaw. To quench thirst, Ma’s sweet and Joe’s unsweet tea are sold as well as any fountain beverage. Coke products are available.

Aside from the restaurant’s sweet and spicy menu, Hot Chicken Takeover experienced inciting benefits last summer. In July, Cleveland Cavaliers star Darius Garland decided to invest in the company and received a seat on the board of directors.

“It has a variety of options on the menu, great food options of course,” Garland told the Nation’s Restaurant News in an interview. “Most importantly, it’s very welcome, great employees— they always have a smile on their faces. They always welcome people in. It’s just heartfelt.”

His next step was helping Hot Chicken Takeover release new waffle fries that are at the “Unholy

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Heat” level. This was just one of the small benefits Garland pitched to the company as a way to launch their relationship. Phil Petrilli, founder and CEO of Hot Chicken Takeover parent company Untamed Brands explains that Garland will hopefully greatly affect the business because he will be able to influence trends.

“We recognize Darius has legions of fans that span lots of different demographics, so he’s exposed to what people find to be exciting out there these days, what people are looking for,” he said. “He travels a lot for work, and so he gets to see a lot of places and get exposed to things that we may not be able to know about as restaurateurs.”

Petrilli also said that in future years, Hot Chicken Takeover’s partnership with Garland will help expand the company by adding a location in the Cavaliers’ Rocket Mortgage Field House along with other locations throughout Cleveland.

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RANT RAVE

FAST AND AFFORDABLE FASHION

BY KITTY CRINO ILLUSTRATION BY NICOLE REESE DESIGN BY KIM LANGHIRT

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Fashion facilitates harmony. It is an unspoken art form that allows humans to express themselves and communicate with others around the world.

When we look back on the last 100 years we can identify trending styles changing by the decade. Nowadays, month-long micro trends have taken the fashion world by storm, and with the influence social media platforms such as TikTok and Instagram have on young people, those new styles are introduced by an internet personality, adopted in an instant, and soon after are discarded once the next style trend hits the media.

The notion that fashion has become disposable has caused fast fashion brands to dominate the market.

Fast fashion makes the hottest trends accessible to all, no matter your background, no matter your budget. Bridging the gap between individuals who would likely never pay any mind to one another is a beautiful advancement in terms of community. Having the ability to relate on the creative level of dress makes for conversation between strangers, allows for new connections to be made, and promotes unison within and beyond the fashion world.

Halle Breudigam, a senior marketing major at Ohio University, said she has experience with the fast fashion brand Shein.

“I used to shop fast fashion a lot during high school and early college,” she said. “I really wasn’t making a lot of money, so [Shein] was the most price-conscious place for me to shop.”

Despite fast fashion coming at a low cost for us, our environment pays a massive price. Within the fast fashion industry clothes are made and sold for cheaper than ever, faster than ever, and people are buying them more frequently and in greater quantities than ever before.

Clothes are meant to live a long life consisting of decades upon decades, to be handed down from generation to generation, but with a cheap

price tag, comes low-quality products. Poorly made garments tear and break; thin, synthetic materials are extremely difficult to repair.

“A lot of the clothes I bought from Shein when I was in high school I don’t even have today because the quality was so bad that they either fell apart in the wash [or], with fast fashion trends cycling through so quickly, a lot of the clothes that I had I didn’t find cute anymore and I didn’t want to wear them anymore,” Breudigam said.

Not only are carbon and methane emissions released into the air when synthetic materials such as nylon, polyester, and spandex are produced, but they are also emitted at the end of a garment’s life cycle. They are nonbiodegradable materials that can only be broken down by incineration. If they collect in landfills rather than are burned, these synthetic garments will remain intact, looking as new as the day they were purchased, for hundreds of years, creating a mass of hazardous waste that will go on to live years beyond any human.

The wardrobes young people have formed from microtrends have been made to be disposable; we deserve more than a wardrobe full of substandard clothing. However, if you really want your fashion fast, there are eco-friendly alternatives that do not come at the cost of the air we breathe.

“Now I realize that sometimes quality is better than quantity,” said Breudigam. “I look more towards basics and thrifting and investing in good quality pieces.”

Check out your local thrift store, get some friends together for a clothing swap, do a bit of research on your favorite brands, and check out their values. If you must buy a brand new garment off the rack, ask yourself a few questions: Is it timeless? Can I see myself wearing this in 10 years? Is it well-made? Will it last?

It may seem difficult to do right in today’s world, but a little goes a long way. And keep in mind what will ultimately benefit your future self, the future of the planet, and how we can bring justice to those who made holding that garment in your hand possible. The integrity to protect and care for our Earth and an appreciation for the art of fashion are two aspects of the human experience that must coexist peacefully.

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