Runway Realway26 Shrug it Off

RUNWAY REALWAY: LOEWE

BY SAVANNAH DAWSON PHOTOS BY PROVIDED

PHOTO CREDIT: JURGEN TELLER

Spanish luxury fashion house, Loewe, recently released their newest Ready-to-Wear collection at the end of September 2022. The Loewe Spring 2023 collection brought both old and new styles into the mix, sticking with their roots with traditional leather goods like dresses and handbags. Still, this collection has brought about a new spring awakening: the incorporation of flowers and plants into the clothing. Dresses, heels, and handbags are not only in floral prints but also all reflect the shapes and colors of flowers. In addition to the blooming new editions, this collection also brings bold shapes and patterns that mimic those of modern architecture. On the note of nature that Loewe designers chose to bring into the mix for this season, there is a beautiful juxtaposition of nature with the deflated balloons used as material to line some of the larger statement shoes that walked the runway. To top it all off, creative director Jonathon Anderson chose to slide in a few pixelated looks,

PHOTO CREDIT: LOEWE

which did not seem to go with the rest of the collection but still fit nicely as an eye-opening surprise throughout the pieces. As a trend that we have seen repeated each year, cropped suede jackets lined with fur are a welcomed addition to the spring collection. This collection is quite diverse and includes both things we have seen before and new things we love. Loewe never fails to impress its audience, and this crowd at Paris Fashion Week was no exception.

RUNWAY REALWAY: DIESEL

BY KENNEDY HALL PHOTOS BY PROVIDED Diesel is an Italian denim brand founded in 1978 by Renzo Rosso. Diesel was a popular brand during the 2000s known for its low-rise denim. Like all trends, however, it went out of style. Twenty years later, Diesel made a comeback and hired Glenn Martens as the new creative director. The Diesel SpringSummer 2023 Ready-toWear collection opened Milan Fashion Week and was nothing short of experimental and fun while still building off last season’s collection. Themed Diesel democracy, the show consisted of 71 looks with four sections: denim, utility, pop, and play. Models wore coated denim, acid wash, distressed ensembles, and sheer embroidered pieces. The collection shows how versatile denim can be and is reflective of youth. The utility part of the show consisted of bronze satin cargo ensembles, two-toned olive bomber and pants, and massive pockets on utility pants; the looks gave a post-apocalyptic streetwear feel. To up the pop and play, there were dresses and pants made from organza, nylon utility jackets, shredded denim that resembled faux fur, and, most excitingly, a coat made with more than 15,000 ripped Diesel labels. Dramatic silhouettes, bright colors, metallics, and leather were found all throughout the show. The diesel belt and futuristic emblem made a return, building upon their brand identity. The clothes were just one of the exciting parts of the show. Diesel not only created a spectacle by breaking the Guinness World record for the largest inflatable sculpture in the world but made history with an audience that was open to the public, with 3,000 tickets offered to the public and almost 5,000 in attendance. Diesel believes in the democratization of fashion. “I wanted to open diesel up to the public, for people who may never have been to a fashion show before. It’s what I believe about the fashion and the state of mind - everybody can be part of Diesel,” said Martens. Diesel is making fashion more accessible and helping set the tone for the industry’s future. There is much anticipation for what they will do next.

Celeb Style: Jane Goodall

BY TATE RAUB PHOTOS BY GRACE AUBLE

Jane Goodall’s impact on environmental conservation and on the field of primatology, the study of nonhuman primates, is so widely known that she has become a household name. She is recognized as one of the most highly esteemed experts on chimpanzees, notably being the first person to witness chimpanzees use tools, a trait that was understood to be distinctly human at the time. Goodall was only 26 years old when she traveled from her home country of England to Gombe Stream National Park in Tanzania to begin exploring the “world of wild chimpanzees.” At the time, the primatology field was heavily male-dominated, resulting in Goodall’s mother accompanying her for her safety. Now, largely because of Goodall’s trailblazing, the primatology field contains a much more equal balance of men and women. “Being a woman helped me in practical ways,” said Goodall in an essay for TIME in 2018. “White males were still perceived as something of a threat, whereas I as a mere woman was not.” In addition to her discovery of chimpanzees’ use of tools, Goodall observed them as being capable of logical thinking and experiencing emotions. She even witnessed them exhibiting human-like behaviors, including hugging and patting each other on the back. This is evidence that humans and chimpanzees are not only genetically similar but emotionally similar as well. In 1962, with no prior degree, Goodall received funding to be a Ph.D. candidate at Cambridge University and, in 1966, she earned her degree in ethology, the study of animal behavior. Goodall later established the Jane Goodall Institute to support continued research and efforts toward chimpanzee conservation. When in the field, Goodall typically wears some combination of khaki-colored pants and a buttondown shirt. For public appearances, she tends to wear plain turtleneck shirts with something patterned overtop. Goodall has created a consistent, iconic style for herself, but what sets her signature look apart is that it was born out of necessity, not for high fashion purposes. Her frequently worn colors while in the field, green and khaki, allow her to better blend in with the environments she observes. Her work transcends the material and emphasizes the importance of protecting not only her beloved chimpanzees but the world as a whole. “There is still so much in the world worth fighting for,” said Goodall in a message for Google for Earth Day in 2018. “So much that is beautiful, so many wonderful people working to reverse the harm, to help protect their environments.”

Ohio University alumna, Sarah Liese, wears beaded earrings she bought from Two Spirit (Nansemond) artist Alex Britt. Liese said Britt’s pieces help her feel confident in her identity.

Celeb Style: QUANNAH CHASINGHORSE

BY ABBY JENKINS PHOTOS BY PROVIDED

Quannah Chasinghorse, while known for her modeling career, is additionally a voice and face for Indigenous people and is breaking boundaries for their voices to be heard. flowy dresses like the one she wore during this year’s Met Gala. She describes her own style as “grungy,” mixing elaborate jewelry with more casual pants. Additionally, she creates vibrant Chasinghorse is a 20-year-old Indigenous model and activist who was born in Tuba City, Arizona, and is a part of both the Hän Gwich’in (from Alaska and Canada) and the Oglala Lakota (from North Dakota) tribes. Raised by a single mother and multiple aunties, she grew up surrounded by powerful matriarchs. She took a very early interest in fashion, namely luxury brands like Dior and Louis Vuitton. As a little girl, she rarely saw people like her represented in the beauty industry, and she wanted to change that. Chasinghorse became very successful in her modeling career, showing up in a number of well-known magazines such as Vogue Mexico and National Geographic, as well as making an appearance at the Met Gala in 2021 and 2022. She has also walked the runway for Gucci and Chloé and has been in both Calvin Klein and Chanel campaigns. As shown through her looks on Instagram and appearances with many luxury brands, Chasinghorse likes using texture in her looks, namely lots of furs and feathers. Her more dressed-up looks consist of brightly colored, makeup looks, utilizing bright colors around her eyes. She incorporates her own culture into her looks, as representing her own people is important to her. Additionally, Chasinghorse uses her platform to reach audiences and educate them on worldly issues such as sustainability, climate change, and Indigenous sovereignty. She speaks for the land she grew up on and is willing to do anything to protect it. Her goal is to let others know that Indigenous people are still present here today. She works to bring recognition to the previously appropriated Native American traditions and art, such as the sacred hand poke facial tattoos called Yidįįłtoo. In an interview for Vogue, she said that she has always felt empowered, especially with her family, and loves to advocate and uplift her people. Culture is a huge part of Chasinghorse’s life, making it the focus of her career as a model as well as representing so many others who need a familiar face to look up to or a voice to be heard.

Liese finds herself mixing inherited Navajo pieces with sophisticated and contemporary styles. Photo taken by Joseph Scheller.

Shrug it Off

Shrug it Off

BY DORI GRAY PHOTOS BY SOPHIA PARRILLO

Ms. Edna Mode of “The Incredibles” once famously said, “No capes!” However, Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear collections appeared to enthusiastically campaign for the opposite. Anna October, Sacai, Chanel, Valentino, and Elie Saab all draped fabrics over the shoulders of their models in the name of fashion. The earliest recording of a cape is “a 1066 illustration of a soldier or shepherd (who) had a cape draped across his shoulder.” An illustration of a woman with a cape affixed to her dress collar followed in the 1300s, according to CR Fashionbook. What once was used to indicate occupation or rank became more modish in the Victorian era, and new cape designs emerged starting in the 1920s. While capes are generally considered an evergreen outfit addition, shrugs have made a comeback. A shrug “is basically just any longsleeve top with only the disembodied sleeves,” according to L’Officiel. The short garment can be closed or open in the front and made with a variety of materials. It is also convenient for layering. Renaissance Renaissance participated in the shrug revival in its Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear collection by way of a cropped knit cardigan. Shrugs came back into the limelight due to the Y2K style resurgence and the thriving “balletcore aesthetic,” a trend inspired by an outsider’s view of ballet culture. Dancers commonly wear knit shrugs as warm-up attire. To emulate the genuine look, balletcore enthusiasts can slip on a shrug, a tulle midi skirt, and ballet flats over a bodysuit and tights. Though the terms “shrug” and “bolero” are often used interchangeably, bolero jackets are generally more structured and “can be for semiformal and formal occasions,” according to MasterClass. Just think of bolero jackets as the shrug’s fancy sibling. The collarless bolero jacket originates from Spain. It typically has an open front, has long sleeves, and stops above the waistline, according to The Business of Fashion. Sami Miro Vintage released its Open Seam Boleros Nov. 1 as a part of a limited edition collection titled Suiting. A popular Oscar de la Renta quote read, “the great thing about fashion is that it always moves forward.” However, the aptly named 20-year rule, referring to the 20 years it takes for a trend to come back into fashion, has proved true. Capes prevailed as shrugs and bolero jackets returned. In the end, everyone should simply wear what they enjoy. It is a good thing Gianni Versace counseled not to be into trends. “Don’t make fashion own you, but you decide what you are, what you want to express by the way you dress and the way to live,” he said. So true, Gianni.