Runway Realway

RUNWAY REALWAY: SCHIAPARELLI

BY HANNAH CAMPBELL PHOTO BYPROVIDED

Designer Elsa Schiaparelli was born in 1890 in Rome, Italy. She moved to Paris in the late 1920s and opened her couture house. By 1935, Elsa had dominated the haute couture industry and expanded into jewelry, perfume, and more.

The designer was known for innovative and powerful pieces. Standout items included skeleton dresses, high shoulder suits, and the invention of the color “shocking pink.” These designs were highly controversial, especially in comparison to her competitor Coco Chanel. After Elsa’s passing in 1973, the Schiaparelli brand did not continue until its revival in 2012 by house ambassador Farida Khelfa. The brand began its return to modern fashion, but creative designer Daniel Rosenberry ignited its official comeback.

Rosenberry discussed how the line is labeled as ready-to-wear, but it is inspired by “kinky Parisian excess.” It takes all of the elements of traditional garments and makes them absolutely exaggerated.

Rosenberry was able to incorporate the multi-dimensional, avant-garde elements of Elsa’s original designs. Despite the line being ready-to-wear, this collection will definitely have its presence known to all.

Standout silhouettes include jackets and tops with structured shoulder pads, bohemian-chic flowing gowns, and new takes on the traditional “little black dress.” The collection is also simplistic in its color scheme, only showing black, white, and silver garments.

The garments speak for themselves, but the accessories are certainly the cherry on top. Over-the-top hats and other headpieces continue to demonstrate the nontraditional nature of the collection and still somehow perfectly complement the outfits paired with them.

The comeback is always greater than the setback, and that is exactly what Rosenberry proves through the ready-to-wear fall line.

Runway Realway The Row Resort 2023

BY SAVANNAH DAWSON PHOTOS BY PROVIDED

Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen’s highend fashion line, The Row, has been around for 16 years. Not only did they come out on the other side of the pandemic strong, but they also are trail-blazing their collection of monochromatic maximalists for their Resort 2023 collection. The Row has always focused on having and being the best of the best—the best fabrics, the best designs, and the best details. One thing that remains consistent with each collection is the elegance and timelessness of each piece. With mostly black and white fabrics combined with elongated sleeves, long hemmed dresses and pants, and built-in scarves, there is a lot to take in with each part of this collection. The Resort 2023 collection was their first to hit the runway after a two-year hiatus from shows, making it a make-or-break moment for the Olsen’s in Paris. This collection was a variation from the norm for them, as their minimalism faded a bit with showy collars and large outerwear that engulfed the models as they walked the runway.

So, what does this mean for The Row as a brand? A “phase” would not be the right word to describe what direction The Row is starting to take. Although minimalism returned in their recently released Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear collection, we get tastes of the entire previous collection: the return of the grand outerwear, long sleeves, and pops of red here and there.

The juxtaposition between the two collections seems extremely intentional, as though they are giving the fashion community small tastes of what they showed within the Resort 2023 collection. Maybe the Resort 2023 collection was just a glimpse into what the cards hold for The Row’s changing image.

CELEB STYLE: TINYJEWISHGIRL

BY SAM KRUSE PHOTOS BY TORA BLAMER

Clara Perlmutter, known as TinyJewishGirl on social media, is a fashion influencer. Her eccentric and flamboyant style has increased her followers on TikTok and Instagram.

Perlmutter started on TikTok during the pandemic as a way to channel her creative style. She began posting try-ons of clothing and styling different outfits together. Oddly enough, she did not first go viral for her outfits but for her body hair. She received hate comments and supporters simultaneously, boosting her views.

Her TikToks now consist of “get ready with me” videos, styling new clothing pieces, what she’s wearing to events, and outfits of the day. These videos get thousands of views, and some of her most viral videos have reached over 3 million.

Perlmutter’s style is versatile and constantly changing. Colorful clothing, accessories, and shoes are her staple. Her style does not fit into one category, and she prides herself on individuality. Her wardrobe consists of streetwear,’90s fashion, mixing patterns, and anything visually appealing to her eyes. In Paper Magazine, she says, “I love something that aesthetically seems like it has no grip on reality.” She is all for grandiose.

She has accumulated a lot of her clothes from Poshmark and secondhand marketplaces. She loves designer brands, but her closet does not solely consist of high-end fashion. She collects clothing unique to her, whether secondhand Chloé or an unknown brand.

Perlmutter shaved her head in January, and her new look has only added to her style. She has posted many videos since, styling accessories and other pieces with her new look, and she looks beautiful and confident.

Lately, on her Instagram, she is styling pink gogo boots, high striped socks with gym shoes, plaid mini skirts, and pink tutus. Even her makeup is a fashion statement alongside her outfits. Clara Perlmutter has not disappointed with her eccentric style, and her followers eagerly wait for more of her evolving fashion.

CELEB STYLE:

MONA LISA

BY LUCY RILEY PHOTOS BY SOPHIE NEILSEN

Lisa Del Giocondo, known in the art world as “Mona Lisa,” was the face or rather the smile behind the adorned painting by Leonardo Da Vinci. The woman’s identity was speculated from its origins and not fully revealed until the early 2000s at Heidelberg University. Originally named Lisa de’ Gherardini, she grew up as part of a noble family in Florence, Italy. Her community described her as a fixture of beauty and elegance. After her marriage to a wealthy Florentine merchant, Del Giocondo met the famous artist and became a figure in his art. While her personal stylistic take on the Renaissance remains somewhat of a mystery, her beauty and De Vinci’s talent introduced a new standard for the era.

The painting’s dark simplicity, in colors and textures, contrasted the vibrancy of the Renaissance period, much like the long-held debate between minimalism and maximalism. The painting depicts Del Giocondo in a natural element with earth-toned clothing and a softfaced smile that holds the message of this masterpiece. The slight, mysterious curve in her lips has ranged in interpretation, whether that be enigmatic and sensual or saddening and reflective. Her understated clothing choices proved not to date the painting, making her smile a timeless fixation for decades. “As far as possible avoid the costumes of your own day… Costumes of our period should not be depicted unless it is on tombstones, so that we may be spared being laughed at by our successors, ” De Vinci said.

The redefinition of modern art, in turn, has continued to have a long hold on music, art, and fashion. Del Giocondo’s influence took on the music industry through various genres, from Nat King Cole’s song, “Mona Lisa” to her appearance in Beyonce and Jay-Z’s collaborative music video in 2018.

However, the painting’s largest mainstream influence outside its current French residence at the Louvre seems to be in the fashion world. Her influence on modern art of the 1500s has translated into a love affair with runway and fashion photography. More recently appeared in shows like the Dior Fall-Winter 2019 collection, featuring an intricate “Mona Lisa” inspired knitwear piece. She is even showing up in collaborations like the bag collection between Louis Vuitton and Jeff Koons, seen on the arm of Kendal Jenner and others. Del Giocondo appears to have influenced those influencing us. So, does the argument hold that Lisa Del Giocondo was the original inspiration for the many variations of the “That Girl” movement more recently introduced through social media?