Issey Miyake

King of Pleats, Issey Miyake, remains renowned for famous pleating technique even after recent passing BY CARLIE REESE

MIYAKEIS SEY

The late Issey Miyake was a Japanese fashion designer known throughout his career for being the “King of Pleats.” Miyake paved the way for other Japanese designers, being one of the first Japanese fashion designers to show in Paris. His revolutionary eye for design and new techniques has made him one of the greats in fashion. Miyake’s designs continue to be cherished and loved even after his recent death in 2022.

Miyake was best known for his pleated clothing as well as his Japanese-inspired designs, such as origami. Miyake released an offshoot of his main label, Issey Miyake, called “Pleats Please” in 1993. The label was centered around his patented pleating technique so that the garments would never lose their shape. This revolutionary technique, called garment pleating, gave Miyake the title of “King of Pleats.” His Pleats Please line has found a new form of popularity with a younger generation during the past few years. The line’s comfort and fashion-forwardness have made Miyake’s pleats a staple clothing piece for the last 30 years.

His innovative pleat technique changed the fashion world forever. Having pleats that could be worn daily without losing their pleats was unheard of. The revolutionary technique included 100% polyester fabric that was cut much larger than the actual finished garment. The fabric was then placed between paper and put into a

“Clothing is the closest thing to all humans.”

ISSEY MIYAKE

heated press. This technique made permanent pleats that could be washed, dried, and shipped without losing shape, bringing perfect pleats to the everyday wearer.

Perhaps Miyake’s most famous runway, which showcased his new technique, was his SpringSummer 1995 ready-to-wear collection in Paris. The collection contained many wonderful looks, but the five pleated dresses with movement built into the garments were most impressive. All five models walked down the runway barefoot with the fabric bouncing around their bodies. The looks were fun, intricate, and just overall very well-designed. He brought fun experiences to the runway while simultaneously showcasing his famous pleated technique. Fashion has always been about expressing oneself, and Miyake believed this wholeheartedly. Miyake believed in art and fashion. He shared his beautiful vision with the world and has created a number of global fashion brands that will be loved for years to come. Not only was Miyake a stepping stone for other Japanese designers to make a way for themselves in the industry, but he also had a pure love for design and fashion. A true imaginative designer through and through. The fashion industry will forever mourn the loss of one of the greats. “I am most interested in people and the human form,” Miyake told The New York Times.