ROAD TRIP SHOWDOWN MONTANA

BY LESLIE KILGORE EBS CONTRIBUTOR

NEIHART—When walking into the base lodge at Showdown Montana, it immediately feels like you’ve gone back in time to skiing’s past. The walls are filled with photos and memorabilia of staff, local residents, former ski patrol, and the family who still owns and operates the mountain today.

“We don’t have any of the amenities here that Big Sky has,” one local says to me after asking where I’m from. “But we do have lots of powder.”

Lots of powder is an understatement. In the 48 hours that we visited the small resort, located in the Little Belt mountains in Neihart—three hours north of Big Sky—it snowed over 55 inches and was still coming down hard when we left their rowdy bar at the base to head home post-après.

Showdown is known to many Montanans as the local, no frills, fresh-tracks-for-days, never-a linein-sight kind of ski area, but it’s also known for its community-focused culture, friendly staff and the family who owns the mountain. It’s beloved by locals.

Purchased in 2020 by General Manager Kate Boedecker and her daughter Avery Patrick along with Patrick’s husband, Shawn, Showdown is one of the only ski resorts in the country owned and operated by a mother-daughter team. Boedecker’s dad, George Willet, owned the resort for more than 48 years and now holds a consultant role for his daughter and granddaughter. Both the owners were present at the base area greeting familiar faces and welcoming newcomers to their resort both days we skied.

While my daughter grabbed some of the free oatmeal provided to visitors under a sign that says “All Day Every Day Made with Love. Thank you for being here,” I checked out the ski area's shop filled with vintage-inspired hoodies, beanies, blankets, stickers and more, all with the iconic Showdown branding. From the amount of logo wear I saw worn around the mountain, it’s apparent that people are proud to be a part of what Showdown represents to an ever-changing ski culture.

After skiing waist-deep powder, we rested our weary legs at Bob’s Bar Dining and Motel in Neihart. Bob’s is one of those special places that’s more of a community gathering spot where staff, locals, dogs and tourists all mingle, dance to the juke box, play pool and catch up on their epic powder lines from the day. In business since 1946 when Neihart was ending its era as one off the biggest silver mining towns in the country, Bob’s is an experience in itself.

For breakfast, we stopped at the Inconvenience Store, which other than Bob’s is the only business in Niehart. A co-op run by several of the 45 full-time residents, the Inconvenient Store serves coffee starting at 6 a.m. and has enough provisions and snacks for a day of adventures. We were also offered homemade muffins at no charge from the group of old-timers who meet there every morning for coffee talk and to greet visitors and neighbors alike.

The last night of our three-day weekend we soaked at the Spa Hot Springs in White Sulphur Springs, 35 miles from Showdown. With three pools that are drained nightly, the owners claim that the high concentration of sulfur, magnesium and lithium make the water some of the cleanest around, which is why no chemicals are used in their pools. With an adjoining no-frills motel, it’s also an option for lodging. The pools are open from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. and are free to lodging guests.

The Edith Hotel, which was purchased by Showdown in 2022, is also an option for lodging and offers ski and stay packages throughout the season. Gutted and completely remodeled last summer, the Edith highlights an eclectic style with Montana art, Western décor, and modern touches throughout. Inspired by the collection of art, antiques and furniture on display at the Bair Family Art Museum in Martinsdale, the love for Montana culture and history so apparent at Showdown also inspired the unique vibe at The Edith.

There are several options for dining and drinking in White Sulphur, including Bar 47, 2 Bassett Brewery, The Jawbone, Stockman Steakhouse, Stageline Pizza and Strand Theater where pizza and movies are offered most weekends.

While the ranching culture it is known for still exists, it’s apparent White Sulphur is in a transition. Local ranchers gather in town amongst Bozeman, Helena and Billings visitors dining and drinking cocktails after a day of skiing or soaking. And it somehow still works here, where all can meet, chat, drink whiskey and eat prime cut steaks together in one small Montana town. Showdown, Niehart and White Sulphur truly represent what most longtime skier’s savor about Western ski culture: untouched powder, downhome people and nostalgic traditions.

“Our snow is great and always consistent, we are lucky that way,” Boedecker said. “But it’s the people who make Showdown what it is—our staff, our season pass holders, and the Montana families who come here to learn to ski. We have something special, and we want to continue that for generations to come.”