?
AN INDEPENDENT
SCOTLAND ONE TRAVELLER ASKS WHY
WINNERS OF OUR
2014
PHOTO CONTEST
THE MOMENTS WE TRAVEL FOR
EXOTIC
MAFIA ISLAND
Just What the Season Calls For
COLOMBIA
TEAM OUTPOST
EXPLORES ONE OF 2015’s
104
TOP DESTINATIONS
MARCH APRIL
OUTPOSTMAGAZINE.COM $4.50 CAN/US. DISPLAY UNTIL MAY 31, 2015
+ When NOT to Depend on the Kindness of Strangers + How I Became a Global Citizen + Craning in Amsterdam
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6 Mailstop 8 Tripping The Fringe 10 On More under-reported, Go ahead, say it…
ISSUE•104
quirky-human, natural-world stories:
actually, where did all that weight go?, saved by the snout, roaches to the rescue, and craning to see the view
13 By Simon Vaughan
Local Knowledge Armed and Dangerous. The time our most senior correspondent got caught with his travel pants down
Story by Shaun Pett
30
DON’T LET THE NAME FOOL YOU Why you should skip Zanzibar and head to Mafia Island for a little exotic slice of Indian Ocean paradise
SHAUN PETT
IN THIS ISSUE
How I Became the Man I Am Becoming
In from the Outpost 19 2014’s Photo Contest WINNERS! These are the moments we travel for
adventure
COMING SOON
THE VIEW FROM HERE
Stay tuned as we head out to run, cycle, trek, ski and SUP in some of the planet’s most spectacular places
You'll love the view! See page 26
44
Story by Daniel Wickie
BENEATH THE LOTHIAN FOG
Should Scotland be an independent country? From Edinburgh to highland to historic battlefield, one traveller explores why Scots have been asking that question for more than 700 years
DANIEL WICKIE
Traveller 82 Outpost Connecting you to your next
59
COLOMBIA ADVENTURE REPORT
BREATHING NEVER FELT
SO GOOD
Last year we chose this South American gem as one of our top emerging destinations. This year, we show you why!
COVER: ANDREW SHEPPARD FEELS THE LOVE IN THE AMAZON RAINFOREST, COLOMBIA. PHOTO BY RYAN EDWARDSON/OUTPOST
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26/02/2015 12:19:23 PM
wildwithin.ca
“Super, Natural British Columbia” and “Super, Natural” are trade-marks of Destination BC Corp.
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SumMoNed
-byGiaŽ¬T ¬ S ¬ ¬.
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CLIENT PROOF #
1
1
23/02/2015 2:55:41 PM
INTERNAL REVIEW #
CONTRIBUTOR
Daniel Wickie
D
aniel Wickie is a writer, filmmaker, and long-time travel addict. He credits his wanderlust to his parents: a mother who was a refugee during the Second World War, and a father in the mining industry who moved the family to the jungles of Indonesia in the 1970s. When not helping run a video production company at home in Toronto, he can be found surfing, climbing or sampling craft beer, all in the name of research, of course. He has been to more than 50 countries, and can even spell some of them.
ISSUE•104 Publisher/Editorial Director MATT ROBINSON matt@outpostmagazine.com Editor DEBORAH SANBORN deborah@outpostmagazine.com Creative/Art Director SERGIO DAVID SPADAVECCHIA david@outpostmagazine.com Senior Editor/Writer & Special Travel Advisor SIMON VAUGHAN simon@outpostmagazine.com Associate/Online Editor DANIEL PUIATTI dan@outpostmagazine.com
TEAM OUTPOST COLOMBIA
Gear Editor PAUL AUERBACH
O
nce again, we composed an elite team of adventure storytellers who travelled to Colombia and came back to report on this top emerging destination. Scott Wilson, world traveller and co-creator/host of Descending and the award-winning travel TV series Departures; Robert J. Brodey, writer, photographer, long-distance trail runner and Spanish aficionado; the dynamic Andrew Sheppard, veteran adventure-videographer and travel-filming expert; and Ryan Edwardson, master photographer/writer with a legendary attention to detail. Read our Colombia Adventure Report in this issue, then check out www.opxpeditions.com/colombia
Editor-at-Large (Asia) JEFF FUCHS Editor-at-Large (Europe) RYAN MURDOCK Contributors This Issue ROBERT J. BRODEY, RYAN EDWARDSON, SHAUN PETT, JOE SANBORN, ANDREW SHEPPARD, DANIEL WICKIE, SCOTT WILSON Contributing Editors BILL ROBERTS, FINA SCROPPO, EVAN SOLOMON, IAN WRIGHT
Sales Manager GREG DAVIS
greg@outpostmagazine.com Outpost [ISSN: 1203-7125] is published six times a year by Outpost Incorporated at 250 Augusta Ave., Suite 207 Toronto, ON M5T 2L7 Editorial and Business : 416.972.6635 Advertising: 416.972.6527 info@outpostmagazine.com - www.outpostmagazine.com Individual Subscriptions Canada: 1 Year [6 Issues] $20 CDN, 2 years $35 CDN USA: 1 Year [6 Issues] $30 US, 2 years $50 US Intl: 1 Year [6 Issues] $40 US, 2 years $60 US
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READ. THINK. COMMENT. The most powerful aspect of writing is the social discussion it sparks. With our new online columnists – Outpost contributors Simon Vaughan, Ryan Murdock and Dario De Santis – we are embracing the art of travel conversation.
Subscriber Services: 416.972.6635. Although Outpost rarely does, subscriber lists may be made available to fully screened companies or organizations whose products may interest our readers. To be excluded from these mailings email circ@outpostmagazine.com, or write to the above address. Publications Mail Agreement #0040017920 Postmaster send address changes & undeliverable copies to above address. We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Periodical Fund (CPF). Copyright 2015 Outpost Incorporated. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. Printed in Canada. Outpost is a member of Magazines Canada. Made possible with the support of
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23/02/2015 2:57:56 PM 2015-02-02 11:39 AM
How
I Became the Man I Am B ecoming By Dario De Santis
Life
isn’t about finding yourself.
Life
is about Creating yourself! —George Bernard Shaw
I
was 20 years old and in the last year of university. I had already been abroad many times, but only for short vacations. Being a tourist three, four times a year though was not enough for me. After each trip I would come back to my usual, unsatisfying life.
An irreversible internal process had begun. I’d had a taste of the world and longed for more. I could not picture myself living in Bari anymore. Every day spent there felt like wasted time that I could be using to explore another piece of the world.
Actually, there was no problem at all in my life, except one thing: everything was always the same around me, and I was always the same too.
Many years before, on my way home from school one day, an enlightening thought crossed my mind: If I used all the steps I make every day on the usual roads to instead walk the world, I could cross it all.
Instead, I wished to see the world, to find out how people in faraway countries lived, to make new experiences, to search for another me; it is undeniable that what we are is greatly determined by the environment we grow up in. Perhaps somewhere else I would find another Dario, who knows? So it was that I left for Ireland, a destination chosen because I wanted to improve my English, but even more importantly because I really like its beer and its wild forests and cliffs. Three friends of mine joined my venture, and the six months we spent together in Dublin were unforgettable. When I had to return to Bari, Italy to complete my studies, I soon realized that my hometown had become a prison in my eyes; I was no longer the same person.
MARCH/APRIL • 2015
8
Immediately after graduating, I started my new life as a Citizen of the World: moving from country to country, doing different jobs, learning languages, meeting new people, exploring new cultures. Yes, I like to think of myself as a citizen of the world, 'cause in my heart I feel that I belong to the big family of humanity and that Planet Earth is my home.
Dario De Santis was born in Italy, is based in Istanbul, wants to see Canada and lives to explore the world. You can read his weekly column “Global Citizen” at www.outpostmagazine.com.
Tripping
www.outpostmagazine.com
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2014-11-18 12:05 PM 23/02/2015 2:58:43 PM
by Joe Sanbo rn
It’s INTO LITERALLY
What’s not so clear is that when we watch what we eat, get some exercise and start shed shedding weight, where does it all go? According to ScienceDaily.com, new research says we actually exhale those kilos! A physicist and TV host in Australia, Ruben Meerman began wondering where all the extra weight went when he lost more than 15 kilograms. After interviewing Andrew Brown, a professor of biotechnology and biomolecular sciences at the University of New South Wales, about the scientific underpinnings of weight loss, they decided to jointly investigate the issue. Brown said Meerman’s take was a whole new way of looking at how humans shed pounds. “Ruben’s novel approach to the biochemistry
B EF RIENDING
of weight loss was to trace every atom in the fat being lost and, as far as I am aware, his results are completel new to the field, he told ScienceDaily.com. Meerman hypothesized that the body converts fat to carbon dioxide, which we naturally exhale ever time we breathe n their findings, which they published in the British Medical Journal, Meerman, the study’s lead author, concluded that when a person loses 10 kilograms, 8.4 kilos are lost through exhaling carbon dioxide and the last 1.6 is converted to water, which the body then excretes. The findings also determined that it re uires a person to exhale 28 kilograms of carbon dioxide to lose 10 kilos of fat. “None of this is obvious to people because the carbon dioxide gas we e hale is invisible, eerman told the science website. He also stressed that breathing more will not accelerate weight loss as the body has its own metabolic rate, and that breathing more than is re uired ma lead to h perventilation Nevertheless, I feel a little winded just thinking about the whole issue….Yay!
B ULLWINKLE
The call it Wild laska for a reason treme weather and snow make it a hard place to live but for some it s God s Country. Which is a good thing for three snowmobilers, who were recently able to bank some good karma for their next run. According to the Alaska Dispatch News, Marty Mobley, Rob Uphus and Avery Vucinich were out for a day on their machines when the came across some moose and ski tracks on a nearb mountain We figured we scared the moose off and saw his tracks go up the side and over the crest, oble told the state newspaper When returning home however, they noticed that an avalanche had come down right where the tracks had been earlier in the day. Fearful a skier was caught in the blast of snow, they gingerly went in for a closer look. Looming above them was another shelf of snow that looked like it could come crashing down at any time. Yet the three could see something protruding out of the snow at first the thought it was a skier s arm; but when they got closer, they could see the mighty snout of a moose, just like a snorkel breaking an ocean’s surface. “It was moaning and groaning and moving, and we realized it was a moose, even though only his ears and some of its snout was sticking out of the snow, oble was uoted as sa ing fter freeing nearl three- uarters of the beast, and with a gentle poke to the backside, the moose stood up and thanked its rescuers with an appreciative glance backwards though think it s likel safe to sa he wasn t at all amoosed b the situation
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PHOTO THESE PAGES: ISTOCKPHOTO/SCARABAEUS/PRZEMYSLAW KOCH/
THIN AIR,
easy to know where your weight gain comes from if you pay attention to what you’re taking into your body. When you realize you can’t quite make the worn-out hole in your belt, you might think back to that extra burger that was so delicious but didn’t fill you up—and was a whopping 850 calories!
26/02/2015 12:21:49 PM
GOING TO NEW HEIGHTS
PHOTO THESE PAGES: ISTOCKPHOTO/SCARABAEUS/PRZEMYSLAW KOCH/
urrentl in m hometown, one of its defining landmarks its long-time sk line trademark is coming down The massive bridge that spans more than kilometres and has been a local focal point since is being dismantled, forever changing the view of the cit las, m little hometown will never look the same or man cities, debates are arising on what to do with structures that have outlived their usefulness Some take them down to make wa for new developments, some repurpose them This was the dilemma msterdam was facing a few ears ago ccording to ilovenoord com, a massive crane on a pier has been rusting awa since a ship ard ceased operation in fter much debate on what to do with the rotting crane and blot on the sk line one local group thought it might make a great place to spend the night and so an idea for a loft hotel was born fter ears of planning and with a team of interior designers, etro co uk reports that the -tonne crane, once thought impossible to develop, has been converted into a lu ur hotel of sorts The hotel boasts three suites that cost its developers , each, and a media studio that can host an thing from corporate meetings to video shoots Sparing no e pense, the even managed to outfit the hotel with an outdoor hot tub Soaking atop the structure, guests can sip champagne overlooking the beautiful cit owhere else in the world is there something as uni ue, as big and high as this hotel, dwin ornmann udi, the hotel s spokesperson, told etro co uk, adding that alread , t is the most talked about wedding location in the etherlands The hotel also has something for the adventurist ecause of its distinct design it s a natural spot for bungee umping or ust euros, guests can dive off the top, giving ou a swinging ride of about metres s in man cities, the regeneration of industrial lands into communit space is becoming more common in msterdam think it can be said that the repurposing of a once-rotting relic is lifting that cit to new heights
Testing...testing 1...2...3... testing testing Sound Check
ROACH
R E DE M P T IO N
m not sure what makes cockroaches seem so ick compared to other insects a be it s the idea that the re nestling in our home s nooks and crannies, onl to be seen out of the corner of our e e when the light s icked on r ma be it s because their e oskeleton will allow them to survive a nuclear attack, which makes us think the re indestructible r, ma be, the re ust gross et as it turns out, in the future the ma be one of the friendliest bugs ou will ever encounter When disaster hits and buildings or cities collapse, the horror of people being buried alive alwa s spurs massive rescue efforts ow, according to ivescience com, researchers at orth arolina State niversit have developed a tin circuit www.outpostmagazine.com
N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 11
info@faralda.com - www.faralda.com
board that can be affi ed to cockroaches which can enable scientists to control their movements lso e uipped with microphones, the boards can transmit sounds from a disaster site to rescue personnel, which allows them to listen for human noises alled biobots, some of the boards have multiple microphones so that responders can more precisel locate the source of the sounds The goal is to use the biobots with high-resolution microphones to differentiate between sounds that matter like people calling for help and sounds that don t matter, like a leaking pipe, lder o kurt, a professor who worked on the pro ect, told ivescience com nce we ve identified sounds that matter, we can use the biobots to ero in on where those sounds are coming from ike all species on this beautiful planet, the cockroach has its place now the place for a select few ma be uite noble, should the be luck enough to serve in the cockroach cavalr
11
2015 • MARCH/APRIL
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MCTDU-9958 Outpost Magazine LO2 • March/April 2015
23/02/2015 3:00:17 PM
KNOWLEDGE
aughan V n o im By S
Armed and Dangerous... Well, Sort Of Our senior special correspondent spills on the time he got caught with his travel guard down
It
wasn’t so long ago that the greatest worry any traveller had was of encountering sea monsters, or accidentally sailing off the edge of the world.
lthough fire-breathing monsters are rare toda , the world is a bit more complicated, with travellers facing ever thing from pickpockets and smartphone thieves to fraud artists and terrorists nd although we have books and entire websites devoted to travel tips and safet warnings, ust venturing outside can often be rather daunting, never mind vo aging to the other side of the world t s not surprising that man people s idea of the ideal vacation is to sit at home with a high-speed nternet connection and their local pi a oint on speed-dial owever, while the e istence of the occasional danger while travelling cannot be totall denied, the rewards of discovering new lands far outweighs an risks Seasoned travellers are familiar with all the precautions to lessen the risk of trouble The don t venture down sinister www.outpostmagazine.com
N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 13
alle wa s after dark; the never pick up hitchhikers in aming orange umpsuits near state penitentiaries; the don t aunt im ardashian-si ed engagement rings on their finger in bus markets, and rarel roll out a si -inch wad of twenties to bu an ice cream unless the re in enice s St ark s S uare, in which case that much mone is re uired for the average cornetto e ond that, even veteran adventurers will often disagree on the safest wa to go, namel do ou travel in plain sight in a group or undercover with the locals or e ample, if travelling along Guatemala s bandit-strewn ungle roads to the a an ruins of Tikal do ou a take a da trip on a shin air-conditioned bus with other camera-laden tourists, safe in the assumption that our tour operator knows what the re doing and wouldn t be in business if the endangered their international clientele; or b take the local e haust-spewing chicken bus and sta hidden amongst the fresh livestock, produce and screaming children, safe in the assumption that no bandit will rob disadvantaged locals who have little assets to offer
13
2015 • MARCH/APRIL
23/02/2015 3:02:07 PM
There are merits to both, but sometimes a low profile ust and not Michael Jackson. Several police boats patrolled the seems safer, even if the alternative is high-tech, heavily-armed, water around the pier, keeping all other vessels well away. It government-organized security. was a nice evening, but sadly the mayor had sent his deputy Many countries appreciate the value of tourism and go out in his place, probably worried we were too big of a target of their way to try to protect visitors. It’s not uncommon in for him to associate with. the iddle ast to find concrete traffic barriers surrounding Security isn’t always so grand, sophisticated or obvious. It the biggest hotels and the sort of airport-style security in the is common when camping in Africa to have a guard keep lobby that even some international airports would envy. In an eye on the campsite during the night. Whether to alert Jordan, our vehicle was stopped well short of the actual hotel you to wandering elephants and hungry lions or to nefarious and the driver’s hands and steering wheel were swabbed humans is never quite explained, but I have long suspected for explosives, while our baggage was x-rayed and we were it is usually the latter. scanned with a metal detector. In Turkey, the bottom of every In national parks, the guards are often park rangers armed with ri es lsewhere the can be oung aasai warriors car and taxi going to our hotel was checked with a mirror in or ust local night watchmen n a rain night in the thick search of car bombs. forests that hug the lower slopes of Mount Kenya, my guard On one hand, it’s comforting to know that security is taken wore a heavy raincoat, big rubber boots and carried a rather so seriously. On the other, it’s a little disconcerting to think small, somewhat crooked, homemade bow and arrow with it s even necessar in the first place ven before and lethal-looking hand-forged metal arrowheads. al-Qaeda, travelling through remote Egypt could be a challenge for anyone prone to alarm. To get He looked quite the marksman, until I wandered from point A to point B, several times we had to On one hand, forward to say hello and noticed that he was get up in the middle of the night and head down quite cross-eyed (for real!). It was then I vowed it’s comforting to that no matter what my bladder said, I would deserted streets to a police-cordoned rendezvous where we would meet up with all the other know that security is not be venturing from my tent that night. buses, coaches and minivans headed our way. Whether or not you actually need such a At the designated time, our convoy would speed taken so seriously. On guard is never clear—except when supplied by off into the night with armoured police vehicles the other, it’s a little the government—but they usually only want a at front and rear, and pick-up trucks over owing couple of dollars, and I’m always keen to help with heavily-armed police. As we raced through disconcerting to think the local economy and therefore never say no. the desert, each town we reached would have its it’s even necessary in In southern Tanzania, a middle-aged gentleman side streets blocked by the local militia dressed approached us as we set up camp on the shores in long gowns and carrying ancient bolt action the first place of Lake Malawi and offered to keep watch over ri es emote police outposts were like Beau us since there was a problem with theft from Geste fortresses with machine gun barrels poking campers in that area ut first he asked, o through sandbag reinforced openings. you have a weapon I could use?” What sort, we enquired? Exactly one year after the Bali bombings that tragically Well, he e plained would like a gun took more than 200 mostly-western lives in the Indonesian Clearly a well-trained, proud professional—he looked disappointed when we said we didn’t have any guns. beach resort of Kuta, I found myself headed to Thailand to large club he asked, somewhat de ated attend a travel conference. I must confess that I hadn’t given nfortunatel , no a great deal of thought to the anniversary until I arrived in He looked unimpressed that we were so ill-equipped angkok and saw ust how seriousl the Thais were taking for survival. it. They clearly believed that 2,000 foreign delegates were a I was about to offer him a pointed stick when he instead ripe target for terrorism and were taking every precaution to pleaded in desperation, "A knife? ensure our safety. From our box of cooking equipment we retrieved a very The conference was held in the beach resort of Pattaya, a couple of hours southeast of Bangkok. Our hotel and long steak knife and handed it to him. He balanced it from convention centre was perched high atop a cliff overlooking hand to hand, feeling the weight and examining the blade by the beautiful waters of the Gulf of Thailand, and as we drew the light of our fire t will do, he finall e claimed, before setting off on his beat up to the gate we watched machine-gun-wielding police pull back lengths of spiked roadblocks that had been spread across I slept like a log that night, serenaded by nothing more the entryway. Police snipers were visible on the high roof, and than the gentle lapping of the lake on the sand. The following from my balcony I was greeted each morning by the sight morning I awoke early to the gentle cooing of mourning collared doves drifting from nearby trees, and from further of a navy patrol ship cruising off shore. It felt nice to be that awa , the haunting call of an frican fish eagle opened important, but also somewhat alarming that the government the zip and climbed out. It was another beautiful morning felt such effort and expense was necessary. in paradise. n the first full evening, the ma or of atta a had invited I stretched my arms and wandered sleepily toward the all of the delegates to attend a reception on a pier near the smoking remnants of our campfire, read to offer our guard town centre. A long line of motor coaches awaited us outside a cup of coffee for his hard work in keeping us safe—but the hotel lobby. It was only as we drove out of the hotel’s alas, he was nowhere to be seen. gates that we reali ed we had a light- ashing, siren-wailing We thought perhaps he had nipped off for a moment, but police escort and that each road off the main one had been as the time ticked by while we prepared breakfast and he similarly blocked off by other police cars to enable us to race still didn t reappear, we finall had to concede he was likel to our destination. Half the city seemed to have turned out long gone and for good. to watch the spectacle—and were likely very disappointed to discover the fuss was for a bunch of travel and tourism people, And yes, he had taken our knife with him.
“
„
MARCH/APRIL • 2015
N104-Outpost_v15-D.indd 14
14
www.outpostmagazine.com
23/02/2015 3:02:26 PM
SORE FEET USED TO SIGNAL WHEN IT’S TIME TO STOP. NOW YOU’LL JUST HAVE TO RELY ON GOOD OL’ STARVATION.
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23/02/2015 3:02:47 PM
KANADA KIRMIZI TOP 16.25x10.875INCH.ai
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23/02/2015 3:03:31 PM
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23/02/2015 3:04:21 PM
GRAND PRIZE WINNER,
THE ULTIMATE DOMINICA TRIP FOR TWO THE GOLDEN TEMPLE OF AMRITSAR, INDIA
By the stroke of luck I found myself [at] the famous Golden Temple of Amritsar [the holiest shrine in Sikhism] on [one of] the most important days in Sikhism: Guru Nanak’s birthday. Some 3,000 devotees gather at the iconic temple, and once dusk comes a procession of candle vigils commences. This is that moment. I [was] able to nudge myself into an amazing spot, with my back against a pole for support…I was able to capture a major sequence of this frame and this shot particularly came out great. DUSTIN KERSCHTIEN
Sony is very proud to provide our revolutionary A7 Full Frame camera + Carl Zeiss lens to help capture your next adventure! The A7 is the perfect companion for wherever your travels take you. Full frame, palm-sized, zero compromise. Todd Toyoda, Director, Digital Imaging, Sony of Canada
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Serene diving and unpretentious yet charming accommodations are supplemented by a wide array of activities on this eco-adventure island. Ann Louise Tuke, Caradonna Dive Adventures
Thanks to all participants in the photo contest – Dominica awaits the winner for an adventure of a lifetime. Discover Dominica Authority
24/02/2015 3:26:38 PM
FIRST RUNNER-UP
1ST RUNNER-UP: FIRE-STAFF SPIN OFF, ASTRAL HARVEST FESTIVAL, ALBERTA
With a fire staff, when you first light it, the wicks are still a bit saturated with fuel, which makes it a bit dangerous…This photo is demonstrating a controlled fire (fuel) spin off, where you throw the staff in the air, while rolling [it] between both hands so the wicks on the end spray fuel into twin fireballs in midair. I used a larger aperture lens, as well as great timing, to meter off of the light that is thrown off. CHRIS HOBAN
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ND RUNNER-UP: HAPPY KIDS IN PERU This was taken in Chinchero, a small sacred town in Peru. I was walking around a pathway when suddenly this group of kids were skipping towards me. I said “Hola!,” and they were so happy to say hello back and approached me to see why I was holding so many cameras. I let them play with them and said “Say cheese.” They quickly [struck] a pose and smiled (especially the little girl standing the closest). They gave me a lot of hugs before they skipped away. LISTYA NINDITA DOVE SKY, INDIA I was walking along the ghats in Varanasi during sunrise, when a man clapped his hands and suddenly all these doves started flying around me. I had only a few seconds before the doves took their original place on the steps. KELLY VAN DE VLIET
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SECOND RUNNER-UP
HONOURABLE MENTION
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I SEE YOU, CALGARY A porcupine hanging out in a bush with a buddy on Nose Hill in Calgary. You can’t see the other one behind it. BONNIE PRAYMAYER DRAMATIC SKIES, SOUTH AFRICA Taken in Kroonstad, South Africa on a reserve. These two lions were being mistreated at a breeding farm and were rescued on this beautiful summer day in February 2014. They were gazing out into the distance while taking in their beautiful new home. SANDY ALVES
HONOURABLE MENTION
GRIZZLY BEAR AND FISHERMEN, KATMAI NATIONAL PARK, ALASKA I was standing about 100 feet downstream, taking pictures of bears feeding on spawning salmon. This bear had been meandering through the brush and towards the river and fishermen for several minutes. This is the moment just after the men spotted the bear, as they start to realize [it] is showing aggression and they are too close to be safe. They were definitely startled, and hadn’t yet figured out the best course of action. GAIL LEDDING
HONOURABLE MENTION
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HONOURABLE MENTION
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24/02/2015 3:30:18 PM
HONOURABLE MENTION
HONOURABLE MENTION
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24/02/2015 3:31:50 PM
ON
ARBORE BOYS, ETHIOPIA This photograph was taken at a small village in the Omo Valley in southern Ethiopia. These boys, of the Arbore tribe, were eager to have their photo taken, showing off their gourd helmets, elaborate beadwork and cowrie sashes. LINDA BARGHOORN HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT, YUKON The shot was taken of the Mule Deer in the early evening hours at the Yukon Wildlife Preserve just outside of Whitehorse, Yukon. It is both the time of day and the fuzz on the antlers (called velvet) that gives the hazy look to the photo. MICHELLE BURLOCK SLIDING SANDS TRAIL, MAUI My wife and I drove up to the summit of Haleakala for a hike down into the crater, along the Sliding Sands Trail. This photo is composed of three ultra wide-angle shots. The trail (and my wife Michelle) can be seen to the right of the shot, winding its way into the crater below. Walking down is easy. Walking back up to the 10,050 feet of elevation…humbling. NATHAN PHILIPS HONOURABLE MENTION
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24/02/2015 3:32:00 PM
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23/02/2015 3:21:14 PM
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GET GOING
YOUR ADVENTURE STARTS HERE
23/02/2015 7:04:56 PM
T
he dhow motors out of the calm hug of Chole Bay. As we near the bay’s gateway the wind hits first, whipped up without impediment on the wide Indian Ocean that stretches empty blue all the way to Southeast Asia. Then the floor of the bay drops away, and so does the calm, and long waves of deep water rock the handmade wood hull. Marco points out remote islands where itinerant fishermen camp and dry their haul for markets beyond. These lone souls in dugout canoes ride the swells around us, just waiting for a catch.
Âť A NGALAWA CANOE USED BY FISHERMEN
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Don’t let the name fool you. Skip Zanzibar, and head to this rich but undiscovered slice of Indian Ocean paradise
ISTOCKPHOTO
Story by Shaun Pett
www.outpostmagazine.com
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LUCIANO ZAPPONI
» THE CORAL IS MOBBED WITH LIFE
LUCIANO ZAPPONI
“Many don’t know how to swim,” says Marco, my scuba instructor. “They have such faith that if God decides it is time to die, knowing how to swim won’t save you.” The chop of the water complicates donning our scuba gear, shimm ing on the heav tank and pulling on ippers We plunge over the side and descend to a plateau at six metres, kicking hard against the muscular surge till we reach a ridge and sink down to equilibrium at 18 metres. This is the feeling divers get hooked on, the serene world apart from the mess above. Once there, you don’t want to go back. And I don’t. Rising from the abyss, the continental shelf gradually ascends toward the East African coast of Tanzania and surfaces for air at afia sland t s low tide when first see it from the sky. A great beige no man’s land separates the dark mangrove edge from the blue-eyed water. In the deep offshore, suppl boats wait to be unloaded The unfinished pier juts out, productive as a monument. Neither clock nor profit rule time here; the tide ticks awa the da nl a short ight south from ar es Salaam and an ibar, afia has continued on in the latter s shadow without much note from the tourist. I’d never heard of it till I met an Aussie named Cynthia in Uganda, who told me to skip the crush of Stone Town and go to afia instead The dirt slash of a runway welcomes our single prop plane, and for an instant it’s the most advanced technology on the island. There’s no pavement here yet, and the cheap Chinese motorcycles that pass my taxi kick up ochre dust along the sole road We stop at a gas station along route and the attendant tips a crushed plastic bottle of musty yellow into the tank. As a welcome at our lodge, a man brings me a coconut spiked with a straw, then points at a swaying palm. “I picked it this morning,” he says, telling me his name is Mohammad. I’ve never liked coconut milk but drink in deference to his risk scaling the tree, then imagine there is no risk in his mind. Being the only guest at lunch and for the whole week, Mohammad fawns on me. He could be young, but some fatigue hangs on him when he isn’t smiling. This is new employment for him—he used to work at the local hospital as a blood technician but had to stop because he developed a problem in his eyes. Though, he says, leaning in, “They don’t pay me.” fter lunch we go to the afia sland arine ark office to register me. Established in 1995 in collaboration with the World Wildlife oundation, the -s uare-kilometre park protects one of the richest marine environments in the world, and is undoubtedly the largest in East Africa and along the Indian Ocean coast. There are more than 50 types of hard and soft coral, more than 400 species of fish, including the vulnerable ugong sea cow, as well as five sea turtle species, four of which are endangered The park, however, isn’t a no-take zone like others. In one of the least developed regions in one of the poorest countries in the world, the 10,000 people who live within its boundaries depend on the ocean for their livelihoods. To strike this balance between conservation and sustenance, the park retrains some fishermen for different professions while educating others on sustainable practices and upgrading their inefficient gear ld wa s do persist, though read during m sta that several fishermen were recentl arrested for using d namite espite these lapses, the park, from all indications, has been one of the more successful conservation efforts in the world, and is a chief attraction for sea lovers. Swimming with whale sharks is the latest draw
» MORE THAN 400 SPECIES OF FISH ARE WITHIN THE MARINE PARK
» SWIMMING WITH WHALE SHARKS, WHICH CAN REACH 14 METRES IN LENGTH www.outpostmagazine.com
23/02/2015 3:26:39 PM
LUCIANO ZAPPONI LUCIANO ZAPPONI
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Many don’t know how to swim,” says Marco, my scuba instructor. “They have such faith that if God decides it is time to die, knowing how to swim won’t save you
„
» SURROUNDING ISLANDS SHELTER MAFIA FROM MONSOON WINDS, ALLOWING YEAR-ROUND DIVING www.outpostmagazine.com
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» MOST BOATS IN MAFIA ARE HANDCRAFTED
» SUBSISTENCE FISHING IS STILL AN INTEGRAL PART OF LIFE IN MAFIA
PHOTOS THIS SPREAD: SHAUN PETT
“Beach bums can go to Zanzibar,” says Marco, whose surname is Stiantoni. He and wife Francesca own the Shamba Kilole Eco Lodge, and he’ll teach me to scuba dive during m week on afia is handshake is firm but his skin is soft from his half-life in saltwater ow in his fifties, arco is originally from Genoa, Italy, and started skin diving when he was just 16. He did his military service as a navy diver (rescue, explosives, welding) and has been teaching it for the past ears in frica, the last in an ibar and afia He and Francesca searched for a long time to build their dream lodge. They just hope it doesn’t become overrun by development, like in Zanzibar. “In 1996, Zanzibar was good,” says Francesca. “But in 10 years it exploded. I hope we get 20 years here before it’s done.” Though marketed now as an undiscovered island, afia has always attracted foreigners. For centuries it was a vital location of global trade. Described in a Greek text in 110 as a trade route to rabia, it was first controlled b the a afir, an ancient Yemeni-based tribe, which was succeeded by the Kilwa Sultanate from Persia. Evidence suggests that during this period, roughly 700-1250 AD, Swahili culture and language emerged from the soup of the local Bantu and Arabic. This was at the height of power for the Muslim city states that rode the trade of gold from Sofala (in Mozambique). n , asco da Gama sighted afia and the ortuguese soon colonized the region; they lasted 200 years here, until the Omani Arabs took control of the African-Indian Ocean coast. From their court in Zanzibar, they enslaved the locals to cultivate the profitable coconut plantations in fact, slaver didn’t formally end here until 1922. In the colonial rush to control parts of Africa, the British declared an ibar and afia protectorates in , while the Germans claimed mainland Tanzania, then gained control over afia in a later trade with the ritish The ritish took it back forcibl during the irst World War, until afia joined an independent Tanzania in 1964. No place in the world is a tabula rasa, and we tourists are just the latest visitors, trading dollars for exotic sun and ocean and calm. • • • Mohammad leads me into Utende village for a celebration that happens to be taking place here during my stay. Rhythmic chanting carries on the wind, clapping, that distinct electricity of Africans communing, and we merge into the crowd of colour and English Premiership jerseys. The six healers present, I’m told, have found a bad spirit at this villager’s home, and a train of young men dance and circle around the house Witchcraft has technicall been banned in Tan ania since , chie as a response to the brutal killings of people with albinism, from whom it’s believed “cures” for almost any ailment can be alchemized. But rituals of the practice continue. Belief cannot be erased by bureaucracy. And each year the healers travel from the ufi i elta on the mainland to cleanse the village ne wears an NBA jersey and beads, and whistles accessorize them all. A little girl takes my hand, curious about the only muzungu here. Her name is Rahma and I understand nothing she says, just her perfect, baby-teeth smile. She holds on until someone takes her away. A cheer erupts, the spirit is found. Two white pigeons have appeared “magically” on the thatched roof. The song ends and the healer now shows us what kind of spirit haunts here. ut first he grabs a camera and pans an establishing shot
» MZEE (CENTRE) IS THE FIRST LOCAL DIVE MASTER www.outpostmagazine.com
23/02/2015 3:27:10 PM
“
The six healers present, I’m told, have found a bad spirit at this villager’s home, and a train of young men dance and circle around the house
PHOTOS THIS SPREAD: SHAUN PETT
„
» LOADING UP WELL WATER FOR SURROUNDING ISLANDS www.outpostmagazine.com
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» CENTURIES-OLD WELLS THAT WERE DUG BY ARAB INHABITANTS
» MOHAMMAD’S SON, SADI
PHOTOS THIS SPREAD: SHAUN PETT
of the crowd before passing the camera to an associate. He strides to centre-stage and ourishes a cobbled rag doll, e hibiting it to the audience m told the colours represent various bodil humours Gaud red for blood, white for spermato oa The crowd gasps Warming to his performance, his salesman s bellow e plains that the spirit brings illness, starvation, disease and death ut his magic can heal it The sermon simmers the crowd, a call and response crescendo until he s interrupted b camera failure The crowd laughs and waits till he has fi ed it and continues This celebration lasts two da s and culminates in a bonfire of ill spirits uestion the solutions that are sold for pain and suffering, but the event of communal o seems an appropriate response ife here, with its vagaries, calls forth for lightness song, dance, m th What carries us all on at some point. ohammad and walk the shoreline back to the lodge Securit guards do e in the shade We cut into the forest and halt in a clearing, and ohammad states the universal and inevitable uestion ve encountered throughout ast frica and sa in repl , how much e reminds me, work onl for our kindness give him some shillings for taking me to the festival e nods n thing else won t cost ut don t tell the others about this Transactions in ast frica often seem ambiguous, nothing ever stated clearl erhaps a carr over from the Swahili tongue, which, arco tells me, is a commercial language full of ambiguities and breadth of meaning so one can twist deals and claim denials Self-satisfied, ohammad hangs around at dinner read and he sits nearb escape and stroll the beach Two men pile palm fronds high above a boat s gunwales The stars chew up the black sk and a crescent moon grins swim for the first time here at afia, and the water shocks me with its warmth. irds wake me earl the ne t morning one like the beep of sonar, another a roaring child processed through uto-Tune ike the sk , ohammad is there again, serving me breakfast fterwards go to meet arco eing ust south of the e uator, the sun broils the morning eople are ferr ing err cans from a well to a boat, destined for thirst neighbouring islands oung men and bo s hoe up the sand in search of bait ver one sa s hello ambo ambo, sa ambo oa ne bo sa s, ambo mambo, and don t know how to respond in Swahili, and the laugh like a trick s come off and laugh, too, our common tongue t the lodge three guard dogs greet me and bark me to a stop wait don t have a rabies shot look for a stick ut m reprieved when a worker checks out the noise and scatters the fangs n the office a fan churns the thick air, onl pausing for a power outage and the cough of the backup generator Toda we remain on land, and arco leads me through scuba theor before we move to the saltwater pool for the confined practice dives s struggle into m wetsuit, arco sa s, The toughest part ve done intro dives before, but reali e again there is nothing natural about scuba, despite our wombed e perience imbs are estranged in the amniotic swim, gravit disappears, and ou re ust a hovering lung sack
» A WALL MURAL IN THE VILLAGE www.outpostmagazine.com
26/02/2015 12:24:33 PM
» MAFIA IS ONE OF THE POOREST REGIONS IN TANZANIA
PHOTOS THIS SPREAD: SHAUN PETT
» FISHING NETS
» MOHAMMAD, OUR AUTHOR’S GUIDE www.outpostmagazine.com
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We break for lunch and Shagg serves me a delicious kingfish steak under the lodge’s soaring thatched roof. He tells me he wanted to study hotel management but didn’t have the money. “My family is very poor.” He has six siblings and his father died a few years ago—40 is old in his mind. That evening I stroll the beach and watch the tide creep out, leaving the exposed seabed veined. Water untraces my foot and retreats obbing boats de ate to ground and skew on the keel, their umbilical chains trailing to useless anchors. What is huge and planetary and incomprehensible is slowed and seen here, atomized, the drops that make the puddles that make the ocean. An imam and a man sit in pink plastic chairs, deep in conversation. At dusk I hear the muezzin call the predominately Sunni Muslim island to prayer. • • • The next morning we time the tide and wade out to the dhow at 8 a.m. It’s already 29 degrees Celsius. “Too hot, too early,” says Marco. ee, his assistant and afia s first local divemaster, helps the two deck hands stow the gear. We motor into Chole Bay and suit up, the water teal clear and almost as warm as the day itself. I free-fall back over the side of the dhow and we descend to Milimani (meaning “the mountain”), which is a coral pyramid that rises up from the bottom 12 metres below. It’s a mob of colour and movement a ers of ruf ed plate coral and mushroomed porite mounds are swarmed by saffron big-eye soldierfish pecking awa at the branches of st lophora rise and fall and overcompensate b de ating and in ating I paddle with useless hands. A hawksbill turtle glides by, taunts me with her grace, 30 to 40 years old, says Marco afterwards. t nibbles on sponges then ippers awa n nearb uani Island there’s a protected turtle hatchery, and the stats reveal their stark future: only one out of 1,000 eggs becomes an adult, and only one out of 250,000 females will lay eggs in the same spot 25 years later. assing over a clearing of sand, a tarted-up titan triggerfish with Botoxed-like blue lips mouths into the ground for food. After 45 minutes we ascend and sail back, and are warmed by tea and fresh-baked biscuits. ompared with other ndian cean islands, afia has a unique ecology. “We may not have the miles of white Maldives beaches, but with the mangroves you see so much life that you’d never see there,” says Marco. Below the surface, this huge biodiversity thrives because strong tides ush out hole a twice a da , keeping the water temperature cooler. Because of this, the coral largely escaped the bleaching in 1998 that decimated the other reefs in the region due to the El Nino heatwave. Still, Marco has noticed climatic changes. Animals’ cycles are triggered earlier, he sa s, and there has recentl been five to si metres of land erosion from rising water levels. The algae-coral balance is tilting towards the former. “It’s not critical, but could get problematic in the future.” A constant fear of Marco’s is the rush to tap the oil and natural gas reserves offshore. Black gold seduces—there is a drilling rig ust kilometres from afia ore companies are exploring and exploiting. Zanzibar is pushing for more autonomy from the Tanzanian government—some even calling for separation and independence—partly because they don’t want to share the resource wealth.
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Back on land I wander through the other luxury resorts, mostly deserted now in early November. Some Germans sun themselves comatose in deck chairs on the beach, milk skin burning pink t dinner, m surprised to find ohammad has the night off n his place is ohamed ompared to the former, he’s earnest and shy with his rough English. While work the bones from a whole fried fish, he asks me if he could learn to scuba dive with aster arco I say yes. Then he has a uestion he can t seem to find the right nglish words for So he simpl sa s, s there a problem e points at his arm or black o ust mone ow much lot, sa He clears the dishes, and I can’t tell by his bearing if he moves disappointed with the knowledge. • • • We dive ilimani again and swim to oral Garden What s beneath the surface requires new language. Leaves and sheets of at coral, laced with twisting bonsai branches, the slow sway of sea plumes and feather stars. Storming schools of graffitied blue and ellow angelfish, oriental sweetlips and powder-blue tangs coloured like custom hot rods. A ribbontail stingra oats low along the sand, a mora eel snakes b t ilimani orth the reef offers different e periences at either end there are skills to practise, m poor underwater navigation leaving me in the nowhere of the ocean. We descend to a sand plateau and bommie coral mounds crop out of the desert-like mirages, studded with ra ola-coloured nudibranchs and ringed with movement. When I look up, thousands of fish circle the water sk arge surgeons slice by in awesome synchronicity. I pause at a cranny. Tentacles tap the water like a blind man’s stick. A lobster. During the safet stop, arco cuts his hand across his neck and reaches for my alternate regulator. This is still training. Other dive boats hold in the bay, but we never see anyone else below as the small industry coordinates this solitude. The next day we tackle Kinasi Pass at the edge of the bay where the coral wall slopes into the dark beyond. A channel between bay and ocean, it’s jammed with aquatic life. We catch the current and drift arge outer-reef fish trawl here, even some reef sharks, and occasionally dolphins. A sole baby grouper swerves around me like a precise maniac. Another with teeth like an old rit swims b arrotfish, butter fish we name below for what s above what else do we have but there s nothing like this up there. ne last test at the end signal out of air to arco and take his regulator When break the surface, m certified to dive for life! You can’t spend all your time here beneath, so when I’m not diving ee takes me out snorkelling to the desolate coral rag islands at the mouth of the bay. Loitering herons, storks, hadada ibis, little egrets and fish eagles stalk and ap and paint the islands white with guano. But the rags are like icebergs: below the surface the coral turns Technicolor with life dense cloud of silver fish shadow me, and the glint light like m own personal sun watch ee dive deep and scare out a grouper that seems to simpl ash and disappear Despite the water’s temperature and my wetsuit, after an hour m shivering and we sail back with a bree e sail is a beautiful invention, little unchanged in thousands of years. The fabric billows and grabs the wind, the wind grabs the boat and on you move. MARCH/APRIL • 2015
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» A MASHUA BOAT IN DRY DOCK
“
What’s beneath the surface around Mafia requires a new language
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» SUNSET AT LOW TIDE ON MAFIA ISLAND www.outpostmagazine.com
23/02/2015 3:28:32 PM
PHOTOS THIS SPREAD: SHAUN PETT
www.outpostmagazine.com
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A short while later I meet Mohammad at the ferry to Chole Island. He lounges in the shade, still like a statue. We wait for the critical mass to fill the small boat. It’s a short ride across and we hop out into the surf, the locals wading to shore weighed with supplies. Entering a dilapidated rag stone building left from the Germans’ occupation before the First World War I pay a fee that goes to the local school. Tentacled fig tree roots strangle an old church built by the Germans, as well as a two-storey school. An old Arab slave trader’s home has also succumbed to nature, while an ancient Omani jail still retains its shape—each of the eight cells I see supposedly held 50 slaves. We walk the dirt paths through the village, pass women clothed in colourful dress, pulling water up from a centuries-old well dug by the Arabs. This is Mohammad’s home and he knows everyone. Not much is happening at the boatyard; it’s lazy hot, and time for Friday prayer. The builders seem to melt even in the shade. A couple of half-finished mashuas, boats smaller than a dhow, are propped in the hangar, old ones sit in the open air waiting for repair. The dhows and ngalawas and majahazi—all types of boats—are built as they have been for thousands of years, by hand and without tape measure, all imperfect but perfect. Most of the wood comes from the Rufiji Delta, where a bent wire that is the shape of the hull is used to find branches of similar curve. Hands forge nails, weave rope from coconut coir, and sew sails from rough trade cotton. Further on, we meet Mohammad’s firstborn son, Sadi. We walk together toward his family’s home. His father came here from Mozambique and spoke Portuguese but is dead now. His mother slumps on the ground in the shade. I’m offered a stool to sit. Goats mill about a mattress in the dirt. His brother’s son tries to roll a broken tire. I see long sticks piled in preparation to build his house. Right now he rents a room in Utende while Sadi lives here. “But I don’t think it’s good for him to live without his father,” he says. “Every man knows how to build a house and I will teach him so he can when he is older.” Mohammad takes me to his waterfront land that an Australian doctor he worked with bought for him. He plans to build some guesthouses one day to rent. He has dreams—everyone does—and dreams need capital, which he pursues unabashedly, given his reasons and desires. He asks for more pay. I remind him of his previous words, but his memory is fuzzy now. I give him bills. He wants more. So I give him some more, but I also offer a lesson in hospitality. I realize as I give it that my words will change nothing. This is not what he wants or needs, but he pushes me to it, the blunt shovel of his digging. His eyes resign, there’ll be no more. Then he smiles, my friend again. Throughout the island I hear the squeaking scratch of the Comoro flying fox bat that roost here. As we leave the village we pass a group of women braiding rope to make rainbowed raffia mats that are sold in Dar es Salaam on the mainland. At the shore sits the exclusive Chole Mjini lodge, walled and guarded. Some of the seven treehouse rooms sit cradled in the arms of great baobab trees. They won’t let me eat there. It’s a private paradise. Each night in bed I’m land sick. I close my eyes and the sea sloshes through me, from toe to head and back. Like dreaming in a new language.
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• • • A day sunned free of imperfections for my last dives. We motor out of the bay and the open water churns. Lone fishermen crest the swells, patient and persistent The sian demand for tuna and shark fins is a challenge for the park Global demand finds its effect here, and the longliners haul up as much as possible outside the bay. The re racking ever corner of the world to catch them, sa s arco on the boat Teach a man to fish and he ll empty the sea if he has reason to. And they have reason here, their life ledgers tabulated da b da e ond sleep is ust tomorrow and no further, ou take now because ou know not what comes. We plunge into the chop at indini the deep , descending along a ridge uge schools of bluefin trevall shadow us along the wall, metallic like e pensive sports cars, prowling for food To m left is dark deep space We dip into a canyon and swim under a rock arch that Marco worries the waves will soon wash awa nother grouper lingers in a cave and we tr to entice it out sometimes the re friendly and you can rub your forearm down their side in greeting, but this one cuts awa volle of incandescent blue arrows around me and arco signals me to a crook where a big e e porcupine fish stares back, barbs standing down The ne t dive we e plore inasi ass at the mouth of the bay and follow a spine of coral between the canyon walls The current is ust right, high tide billowing us into a drift, like hori ontal sk diving, with civili ations below, aquatic industry. We spot another hawksbill and follow her; she lets us pace her, this rock carapace, living fossil of the distant past, before ditching us, our limbs inefficient to her task elagic fish from the outer reef wash in and si e up the smaller reef fish ooming ahead, coloured atoms swirl around the 12-metre pinnacle of ancient coral. don t see esus or oses ust two huge potato groupers that have been left b fishermen because of their si e t the end, arco has to go back down to release another boat s anchor that is hooked onto coral bove, he slaps the sailors in Swahili. “Not only do they destroy the coral but their divers are waiting metres awa , he later tells me ack on board our sail puffs taut and we cruise back Wh go below ver one finds a reason or arco, it s the isolation from what s above nder the water, tr to forget ever thing bills, appointments and pa attention to what s around me ou can t hide who ou are under the water ou know right awa who is the alpha, who follows, who is nervous The water simplifies life to each breath • • • or m last dinner, arco and rancesca oin me The lodge is their home, and the engage guests with this intimac newl arrived rench woman dines alone near the pool urning leaves bite the air to dissuade mos uitoes We start with gnocchi made in two wa s, with cinnamon and tomato sauce. arco goads me to guess what it s made from hint of sweetness give up Green banana, he sa s, an invention of his Their food is the best have on afia, avours rather than uantit , an fro- uro- rab cuisine The olive oil comes from arco s famil s farm in tal The tried to ship wine, but it cooked waiting in the ar port riends bring supplies when the visit MARCH/APRIL • 2015
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» RUINS OF A GERMAN SCHOOL
» MARCO HAS BEEN DIVING IN AFRICA FOR 30 YEARS
» CURVED BRANCHES ARE HARVESTED TO MAKE THE BOAT’S RIBS www.outpostmagazine.com
26/02/2015 12:25:28 PM
TICO r
“I need the little things,” he tells me. ver grilled fish topped with capers and olives the e plain to me the origins of the name afia morfi eh in rabic, meaning islands or archipelago; a afir, the tribe that ruled here; and afia, which means health, and mafia meaning place of health, both in Swahili t has man meanings, sa s arco ou choose the one ou want The ne t morning, as wait for a ride to the airport, a man shimmies up a coconut tree and with one hand wrestles several orbs loose that fall and thud against the sand e pauses in the fronded canop , a man harvesting in the sk f ever return to afia, know it won t be the same evelopment is coming or destruction, as arco deems it e told me recentl in an email that the re now paving the road, cutting down mangroves and baobab trees to tar a highwa to the beach Things change, the alwa s do, even the planet, as one can see here t s far too eas now to imagine such destruction, much harder to stand in the present though less so here, as afia arrests time s arrow So watch the man inchworm down the coconut trunk and collect his bount , as the shore inhales the slow owing tide
On an introductory dive in the Great Barrier Reef, Shaun Pett was encouraged to stick his hand in a giant clam, and it promptly snapped shut. He survived, and continues to eat clams in all its cuisinistic forms. This is his second story for Outpost.
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23/02/2015 3:29:32 PM
LOCATION
MAFIA ISLAND, TANZANIA
Mafia Island is the southernmost of Tanzania’s Indian Ocean islands; the other two are Zanzibar and Pemba. It is located 160 km south of Zanzibar, and 21 km east of the Tanzanian mainland. Mafia Island is the largest in the Mafia Archipelago, measuring approximately 50 km by 15 km.
TIME: GMT+3 HOURS
POPULATION: Tanzania, approx. 49,600,000; Mafia Island, approx. 50,000 CAPITAL (OF TANZANIA): Dodoma LANGUAGE
The official language of Mafia is KiSwahili, though English is spoken at lodges and by tour guides. If you don’t like miming, it could be useful to take along a Swahili-English phrasebook and learn a few key phrases or words.
Mafia Island le ho
C
y
Ba
Bwejuu Island Juani Island TEXT BY SIMON VAUGHAN; ILLUSTRATION BY SERGIO D. SPADAVECCHIA
GETTING THERE By air: Many major European and Middle Eastern airlines offer direct service to Tanzania’s main city, Dar es Salaam, from where there are regular short ights to afia sland starting at approximately $125 USD each way, excluding taxes and fees. s all air service to from afia sland is operated in small aircraft, baggage limits are restrictive and closely observed. Many smaller carriers also request that travellers use soft bags rather than hard suitcases. By sea: For the truly hardy (or fool hardy?), there is regular boat service between ilindoni on afia and amisati on the mainland. Though the ferry costs less than $10 USD and provides the opportunity to travel with the locals, the journey takes several hours, depart times can be difficult to ascertain, there are few-to-no safety measures, and the crossing can be rough. Moreover, passengers are exposed to the equatorial sun and to overcrowding. Yet if that just stokes your adventure-lust, the port of Nyamisati is located about 150 km south of Dar es Salaam. As ferries are often scheduled to leave very early in the morning (though not necessarily on time!), you’ll likely need to stay in the small town the previous night. ACCOMMODATION or a small place, afia offers something for most budgets from small, reasonably-priced B&Bs and guesthouses to lodges and luxury resorts. Our writer stayed at the environmentallyfriendly Shamba Kilole Eco Lodge (shambakilolelodge.com). GETTING AROUND Transportation is limited on the island et it s not difficult to get around. Most lodges offer service to and from the airport, as well as tours of the island. Independent explorers can use local taxi services that include everything from boda-boda (motorcycle taxis) to tuktuks (three-wheelers), as well as MARCH/APRIL • 2015
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cars and minibuses. It may also be possible to travel from community to community by boat. WHEN TO GO Like much of coastal equatorial Africa, there can be a lot of rain. The driest time tends to be July to September, with the heaviest rainfall from April to May and again in November. December to March is many people’s favourite time, as the tropical heat is tempered by occasional showers and refreshing breezes. Weather patterns do change from year to year, so whenever you go take a positive attitude—and a rain jacket! MAFIA ISLAND MARINE PARK It costs $20 USD a day to visit the Marine (coral reef) Park. As much of the island’s southern accommodation sits within the park itself, the fee is payable even if you are not diving. HEALTH Visit your doctor or a travel clinic before going. You’ll likely need immunizations and be recommended a malaria prophylaxis. MONEY afia uses the Tan anian shilling There are no T s on the island, though some resorts accept credit cards. Be sure to bring cash with you. WILDLIFE It just wouldn’t be East Africa without wildlife. The waters around afia teem with astounding marine life, including whale sharks, which you can swim with! Inland, there are monke s and numerous species of birds and butter ies, ing foxes, bushbabies, genets, pygmy shrews and lizards. Some say pygmy hippos can be found in some of the lakes in the centre of the island, but others believe it’s just island lore. www.outpostmagazine.com
23/02/2015 3:29:48 PM
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23/02/2015 3:30:12 PM
BENEATH THE L “
A mile frae Pentcaitland, on the road to the sea Stands a yew tree a thousand years old And the old women swear by the grey o’ their hair That it knows what the future will hold For the shadows of Scotland stand round it ‘Mid the kail and the corn and the kye All the hopes and the fears of a thousand long years Under the Lothian sky rian
„
c eill, he attlefield and
» EDINBURGH CASTLE STANDS SILHOUETTED AGAINST THE EVENING SKY
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23/02/2015 3:30:34 PM
E LOTHIAN FOG Story by Daniel Wickie
S
hould Scotland be an independent country? From vibrant Edinburgh to verdant highland to historic battlefield, one traveller explores why Scots have been asking that question for more than 700 years
“What’s in a haggis?” “You don’t want to know. Livers. Guts. Stuff. But there’s oatmeal in it as well. So don’t worry.” Lovely. I was glad the oatmeal would cut the offal. I was with my companion Andrea, who had come with me in part to see where her Scottish father had grown up in Glasgow. She felt honour-bound to try haggis. We would talk tough about it and threaten to order it but never quite get there, until our last night in Scotland, when we didn’t have a choice. When it did arrive, it was dark and evil-smelling, and flecked with white. We would steel ourselves with drink, but that was in the future, and at the moment we were on the slow train from London, bound for Edinburgh. I had asked a seatmate a banal question about something outside the window—“Are there always so many sheep?”— www.outpostmagazine.com
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which led to him instantly handing me the first of what would eventually be a half-dozen bottles of beer from the red rollie bag above his head. It clinked and clanked like a drunken knight every time he reached up to take it down, which was often. He was late fifties, sporting steel-rimmed glasses, a plaid shirt and stylish black leather half boots. He was at least four beers in when we started chatting. The conversation went from sheep, to Hadrian’s Wall, to the Celtic Football Club, to haggis. I actually wasn’t all that keen on the specifics of Scotland’s famous dish, but the conversation served as useful lubrication into my real line of enquiry: the Referendum. The month before, Scotland had gone to the polls to answer one black-and-white question: Should Scotland be an independent country? It was a straightforward “majority rules” framework and the result was “No,” with 55.3 percent voting to stay a part of the United Kingdom.
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“
So, how’d you vote?” I asked, unsure of how sensitive the subject was. But he was direct and forthcoming. “No. I voted no. Scotland couldn’t manage on her own
„
» ST. GILES' CATHEDRAL IN THE HEART OF EDINBURGH, ALSO KNOWN AS THE HIGH KIRK, IS DEFINED AS THE MOTHER CHURCH OF THE CHURCH OF SCOTLAND AS WELL AS OF PRESBYTERIANISM WORLDWIDE. IT’S ALSO WHERE JOHN KNOX PREACHED DURING THE REFORMATION
It was also headline news across the world, with governments from London to Madrid to Ottawa watching the results with interest and anxiety. No less an authority than Arthur Herman, the bestselling author of How the Scots Invented the Modern World, weighed in. In a post-referendum column for The Globe and Mail in Canada he wrote: “It would also have sent the European Union into a tailspin as separatist movements from Spain to Belgium and Italy would have taken heart and broken out like measles.” Had the vote gone “Yes,” it would have marked one of the few recorded times a people democratically and non-violently parted from their parent nation. And this wouldn’t be some banana republic they were leaving because El Presidente was working on his sixth palace—this was Great Britain, for all its faults, still one of the most storied and successful nation-states in history. “So, how’d you vote?” I asked, unsure of how sensitive the subject was. But he was direct and forthcoming in his answer. “No. I voted no. Scotland couldn’t manage on her own.” “North Sea oil can’t pay?” “No, that wouldn’t be enough. But not just tha’,” he said in his strong Scotland brogue. “Instability. A lot of the big banks were pulling out if it were a Yes, moving to London. Tha’s one. But for me, it’s pills.” “Come again?” I wondered if he was about to offer me some Xanax to go with the beer. MARCH/APRIL • 2015
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“Pills. Prescriptions. Mine are free right now.” I didn’t know the truth of his statement, but I had read that the Scots paid the highest taxes per person in the United Kingdom, some of which I assumed went to health care. He went on: “You’d have to pay six pounds a prescription. It was the prescription put the screw tops to it. Six, seven tablets a day, adds up. Every week, every month. Then there’s the pensions. I’m still 10 years from that, but would it be there when I needed it? Here, ha’ another beer.” Prescriptions and pensions? What happened to rowdy Glaswegian hoodlums and William Wallace screaming for freedom? I drank my warm beer as we rolled along through Lothian, the historic name for the Scottish borderlands and the approaches to the city of Edinburgh. We pulled into Waverley station, which sits in the shadow of the high ground that holds dinburgh astle, our first and obvious destination. Disembarking was a mildly woozy affair, and we bade farewell to our beer benefactor. Edinburgh Castle anchors the top end of the Royal Mile, a street that runs along the ridgeline of a small chunk of volcanic basalt that sits higher than the surrounding countryside. The other end of the Mile is Holyrood Palace, where the Queen stays when she comes to visit her partially-reluctant northern territories. Close by is the new Scottish Parliament. www.outpostmagazine.com
23/02/2015 6:52:08 PM
ISTOCKPHOTO/SALVATORE CONTE
ISTOCKPHOTO/JENIFOTO
» PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE, WHERE THE QUEEN STAYS WHEN SHE VISITS EDINBURGH
Despite its age and legacy, and patches of cobblestones, the Royal Mile is very much a part of a modern and vibrant Edinburgh, lined with pubs and banks and shops and statues. Along much of its length egress dozens of narrow alleyways that drop gray-stoned and tight off the heights and down to the lower reaches of the hill. Marlin’s Wynd. Riddle’s Court. World’s End Close. Walking through these, whether finding one at the end a blank and forbidding wall or a golden-windowed pub, gave much to the air of mystery and romance Edinburgh holds in spades. It was very easy to imagine political machination and murder and frantic doomed lovers in spaces like this. We walked up the grade to the front of the castle, silhouetted by the setting sun. Statues of William Wallace and Robert the Bruce anked the main door oth men loom large in the histor of Scotland’s struggle for independence, and both featured prominently in Mel Gibson’s wildly off-base Braveheart. The movie over-glorifies Wallace and gives fairl short shrift to Bruce (including painting him as Wallace’s betrayer); in reality, even with Wallace’s solid role in the struggle for Scottish independence, it’s Robert the Bruce who deserves higher pride of place in the pantheon of Scottish heroes. The castle itself is still in good shape, and ags snapped smartly on their staffs. We took the view of modern Edinburgh spreading out from the castle’s focal point, and turned our collars up against the stiff wind, the remnants of Hurricane www.outpostmagazine.com
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Gonzalo having made their way across the Atlantic. The sun slid below the horizon and the temperature dropped rapidly. It was time to seek a more congenial altitude, and we made our way down the road alongside the castle walls to the Grassmarket, an area that once served as a marketplace and did occasional stretches as an execution ground, a grim reminder of Edinburgh’s fairly bloody history. We hurried through the gathering darkness to the welcoming lights of a pub. The White Hart had a fair claim as the oldest pub in Edinburgh, with dark rough-hewn ceiling beams boasting gold-painted quotes from various luminaries such as William Wordsworth, Robbie Burns and Oliver Cromwell. Said luminaries had actually drank there, which added a certain historicity to the place. They had live music this evening and hand-pulled cask ale on tap, and we set ourselves up with pints as the guitarist began his set. He looked to be in his late forties, with whitish-blond hair that curled over his collar. His jeans were ecked with paint and his voice was true e launched into his repertoire. The songs were melancholy and dirge-like, even when rousing, and were often about fresh-faced Scottish lads dying very badly in continental wars. Jamie Foyers. The Green Fields of France. Will Ye Go Tae Flanders? Then the singer injected post-modern commentary on a quasi-modern song about an anything-but-modern issue. “This song is about England and Scotland. The better side lost the other day. It should have been a “yes.”
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ISTOCKPHOTO/SUNLOW
» A
» THE MAGNIFICENT VIEW OF EDINBURGH FROM CALTON HILL AT DAY’S END
But it’s not about hating the English. This is called Both Sides The Tweed.” There was a wistful realit in his voice, it wasn t a ippant comment. The Tweed in the song’s title refers to the River Tweed, which forms part of the border between Scotland and its southern neighbour The song is actuall appeasing in tone, in the why-can’t-we-all-just-get-along mold. It’s also about the formal union between England and Scotland, which dates back to 1707. A century earlier, in 1603, the Queen of England, Elizabeth I, had died without producing an heir and the rown of ngland had famousl fallen to her second cousin, James VI of Scotland, which by this period had power over its own affairs and monarch James of Scotland became James I of England, effectively begetting Great Britain (Wales was already tied to England), which existed for the next 100 years in everything but name until the Act of Union in 1707. The act formalized the union into the Kingdom of Great Britain (Ireland was added in 1800), with a version of the modern Union Jack incorporating elements of both Scotland and ngland s ags After his set, I asked the singer about his vote in the Referendum. “Yes, of course.” put the same uestions to him as had to the man on the train. “No, we can do it. We just need to believe it.” It seemed MARCH/APRIL • 2015
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ISTOCKPHOTO/JAN KRANENDONK
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»
hopeful and idealistic, but he was completel earnest t didn t happen this time, but it will happen again ne da , we’ll have a nation.” Morning was bright, with dotted clouds moving low and fast under a brisk wind. We walked down the Royal Mile to its lower end, to the new Scottish Parliament building. Built in , it is a modern-looking building, with lots of pale wood and glass. It was the weekend and Parliament was not in session. ntrance was free but securit was airport-worth , with bags and backpacks going through the scanning machine nside were displa s e plaining the histor of Scottish government, the road to a Scottish parliament, and various other Scottishgovernment related e hibits utside of the current political climate it would have been unbearable to all but the most avid parliamentar scholar Scottish aw and e where do stand but at this time, it was curiousl interesting was particularl taken b a displa containing what suspiciousl looked like beer coasters boasting es and o e hortations pon closer e amination, the were for an earlier decision, in 1997, when the government basically asked, “Should we have a Parliament?” (That time it was a decisive es learl this was a nation that took consultative democracy very seriously. But what if someone got sick in the middle of all this nation-building seriousness? www.outpostmagazine.com
23/02/2015 3:32:05 PM
DANIEL WICKIE
ISTOCKPHOTO/LUIS REVILLA
ISTOCKPHOTO/MARILYNJONES2010
» A BAGPIPER PLAYING ALONG THE ROYAL MILE
» SINGING SCOTTISH FOLK SONGS IN EDINBURGH’S OLDEST PUB
» ST. GILES’ CROWN SPIRE DOTS THE SKYLINE OF EDINBURGH’S FAMED ROYAL MILE, A STRETCH OF ROAD THAT INCLUDES EDINBURGH CASTLE AND THE PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE
“Now, how do we stand on this whole Iraq and Syria thing?” Sorr , eith s spewin is guts up usta bin the fish supper “Oh, fer feck’s sake! Right. Over to ‘is place with soup and a dram. Tell the rest of the country to stand ready. We’ll know soon enough.” I imagined a never-ending series of National Questions: “Should England’s nuclear weapons be held at the Firth of Clyde? Should the Rangers FC join the English Premier League? Should the First Minister have bacon and eggs or smoked kippers for breakfast?” lippanc aside, es would have had serious ramifications for the rest of the world. Some basic research on active separatist or secession movements—meaning those with a historical claim or some sense of legitimacy, not just some guy who wanted to declare the Republic of Frank—turned up impressive results. Close to home of course, is Quebec, which actually had Parti Quebecois observers in Scotland at the time of the referendum; but also on the list were the Basques, Northern Cyprus, Abkhazia and South Ossetia in Georgia, Kurdistan in Iraq, and the splendidly-named Northern League, which occasionally demands an autonomous region in parts of Italy. It was clear this was not a unique and localized set of circumstances. Pointing the car north, we left Edinburgh behind, crossing the impressive bridge across the Firth of Forth and into www.outpostmagazine.com
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ISTOCKPHOTO/SHAIITH
ISTOCKPHOTO/JAN KRANENDONK
ISTOCKPHOTO/YAOHUIER
» TOURISTS CAN TOUR THE CITY ON VINTAGE DOUBLE-DECKER BUSES
» THE STUNNING INTERIOR OF ST. GILES’ CATHEDRAL
undee and erth, and finall e changing the large cities for the windswept spaces of the Highlands. There were a multitude of destinations for a highland journey. I picked Inverness, a city about a four-hour drive north of dinburgh, mainl because of its pro imit to och ess, as I had never seen a real mythical monster before. The most direct route to Inverness was up the A9, straight through the heart of the Cairngorms. These mountains were reputed to have impressive views, commanding vistas and to provide a true Scottish e perience, and was looking forward to the landscape. Unfortunately, the weather became very Scottish very quickly, and much of the drive was spent in spitting rain and close cloud cover. Rain spattered the windshield, and curtains of haze and drizzle obscured the landscape. I consoled myself with the thought it was all part of being in Scotland, which I was told was appropriate. We pulled into Inverness and checked into a B&B. The proprietor also ran tours and I wanted to ask her about the loch. She was a no-nonsense Englishwoman, who had lived in Scotland for more than five ears wanted to get to r uhart Castle, which was said to be an impressive ruin. This was only 20-odd kilometres away. o ot first ou definitel need to go clockwise own the Military Road and into Fort Augustus from the east. Then up to Urquhart Castle on the A82. I don’t know why, but it just doesn’t work the other way. The views, they just seem off.”
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23/02/2015 6:32:10 PM
» A STATUE OF ROBERT THE BRUCE SURVEYS THE BATTLEFIELD OF BANNOCKBURN, SITE OF THE BRUCE’S BIGGEST VICTORY
With the decision to circumnavigate the loch now made for us, we headed out to explore the Inverness pub scene. Being from a young country, I felt a draw to old pubs and we found ourselves at one named Gullions, nursing cask ales. The Scottish friendliness I was increasingly drawn to manifested itself yet again, with a trio of electricians introducing themselves, and chatting about everything and nothing. Once again I ventured the referendum question. This time, the oldest of the group dropped his voice noticeably. “No,” he said. “I voted No.” I cocked my head quizzically. “Is this a sensitive matter?” “Not really. But this is a Yes pub.” With that he nodded at the wall, where a clock hung with a large YES sticker slapped on it. “Better if it’s kept a bit quiet.” He gestured to his mates. “They voted No as well.” To this one of them nodded; but the second and youngest man raised his head from his glass. “Not me,” he said shyly. “No!” his mates said in disbelief. “Aye. I voted Yes.” “Well then, I cannae drink with ye no more!” This said with a laugh, as he signalled another round. I was starting to notice a generational divide among the Yes and No camps. People older than 40 or 50 years of age seemed to be sa ing o, whether out of specific concerns about pensions or prescriptions, or the natural conservatism of aging. MARCH/APRIL • 2015
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» A STATUE OF THE INFLUENTIAL ECONOMIST ADAM SMITH, SCOTSMAN AND AUTHOR OF THE WEALTH OF NATIONS, STANDS BEFORE ST. GILES’ CATHEDRAL
People in their 20s and 30s were saying Yes, seemingly out of the idealized romanticism of independence, or the bravado/ self-confidence of outh I mentioned that I had seen some prominent examples of the Yes side plastered around Edinburgh. Cheap stickers and moronic bathroom-stall graffiti ote es, ou twat , but also large professionally-made banners installed high up on the sides of buildings where you would have needed crane access. “I haven’t seen many—actually, any—No banners. Did they have them up?” “Aye. But people took them down straightaway. No rubbing it in.” I mentioned casually something about our travel plans, south and east from ort ugustus to hopefull find the highland views which had so far escaped us, and on to Stirling and nearb annockburn, site of one of the most significant battles in Scottish history. “Aye,” he said. “That was Robert the Bruce. Big day.” He said this as though discussing the past weekend’s football match. I was struck by how history was present and relevant in such a modern conversation, and that an average guy in an average pub would reference events from 700 years ago with an accurate and casual ease. could name something from anadian histor , the first prime minister for example, but would be hard pressed to advance a thesis on his specific impact on a specific action at short notice in a pub with a stranger. www.outpostmagazine.com
23/02/2015 6:33:16 PM
ISTOCKPHOTO/TROTALO
DANIEL WICKIE
ISTOCKPHOTO/SIMON PODGORSEK
DANIEL WICKIE
» A BRIGHTLY PAINTED DOORWAY OFFERS A SPOT OF COLOUR AMID THE STONE WALLS OF THE CITY’S BUILDINGS
»
ISTOCKPHOTO/SALVATORE CONTE
DANIEL WICKIE
AM H OF » THE RUINS OF URQUHART CASTLE LIE ALONG LOCH NESS IN THE NORTHERN SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS
Robert the Bruce was a contemporary of William Wallace, though both men are historic figures for helping to free Scotland from forced English dominion. Wallace was defeated by England’s Edward I—who was nicknamed “Hammer of the Scots” for his determination to keep Scotland under English rule—at the Battle of Falkirk in 1298; he subsequently resigned his formal title of Guardian of the Scots, which fell to Bruce and his main rival, a nobleman named John Comyn. Several years of skirmishing and murder and political jostling took place, and Wallace, now a marginalized outlaw, was betrayed (though not by the Bruce, as Braveheart portrays) and executed in London by the English in 1305. Robert the Bruce subsequently killed Comyn (on the altar of a church, no less), and declared himself King of the Scots. He was a more cunning and patient and politically astute man than Wallace, and these ualities would benefit him and Scotland well the time of Bannockburn in 1314, the ruthless Edward I had aged and declined, and the army Bruce would face in battle, though double Scotland’s strength, would be commanded by Edward’s son, a much weaker leader. couldn t wait to see the battlefield, but for now, we had to try and see a very famed monster. pon firm instructions from the landlad , the first stop in our casual quest for Nessie was Dores Beach. We parked the car in the lot of the cozy-looking Dores Inn and walked www.outpostmagazine.com
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to the shingled namesake beach. This was the northeast end of the loch, and the view was straight down the water for well over 35 kilometres. For some reason I was expecting placid dark waters, but they were heaving and steel-grey, whitecaps thrashing in the strong wind. Clouds raced overhead, at high altitude for once. A converted campervan sat a few metres from the water’s edge, with a bright sign advertising “Nessie sculptures.” The van’s owner wasn’t currently at home, but a laminated newspaper story mounted on a podium told his tale. In 1991 Stephen Feltham left his home, girlfriend and the family business in the south of England, converted his campervan into a permanent residence, and has been living on the shores of the loch, watching for Nessie, ever since. Stretching almost 37 kilometres in length, and more than 700 feet deep at its deepest point, the loch is truly massive, especially in terms of volume. The waters have almost zero visibilit , dark with peat, and provide eas camou age for the legend. The earliest known reference to a possible creature dates back to an Irish monk named St. Columba in 565 AD, who allegedly instructed one of his disciples to go into the water as bait, a conversation that now strains the imagination. “Oi! Brendan! You see that huge dragon-monster in the water? Yeah, I’m going to need you to go swimming.” “Yes, boss. I won’t question your clearly ludicrous idea.”
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ISTOCKPHOTO/FRANCESCO DAZZI
» A SCOTTISH FLAG FLIES ALONG THE ROYAL MILE
» A STATUE OF DAVID HUME, THE PROMINENT 18TH-CENTURY SCOTTISH PHILOSOPHER AND ESSAYIST
The monster went for the man, and St. Columba turned it back with some Christian words, as saints are wont to do. History does not record whether the disciple decided to seek spiritual guidance elsewhere. In modern times, the sightings date from the 1930s, with the famous black-and-white serpent-like neck photo taken in 1934. This was proven to be a hoax in 1975, but spurred the legend onwards at the time, and since. So called “sightings” have taken place in the ensuing decades, with unexplained sonar readings, vague photographs, and even a claim the monster was visible on Apple Maps. With even the mildest scrutiny that image is so clearly a low-contrast boat wake that it’s easy to see how believers wanting something badly enough that it skews judgement. Still, knowing the sheer volume of water present and that there is an outlet to the sea, being on the shores of the loch, with the wind-whipped whitecaps giving the scene a slight air of menace, it was easy to have a part of your mind disregard some obvious science, and believe in Nessie. Even when casually relaxing and taking the view in here, there is a portion of the mind that is on high and hopeful alert. I didn’t know where Stephen Feltham was, and could only assume monster-hunters took vacation too, but we had a running joke about posing for selfies and later seeing a clear essie in the background and the press that would follow: “Canadian Tourists Find Nessie; Local Man Regrets Cheap Ryanair Flight To Rome.” MARCH/APRIL • 2015
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» PARTS OF THE INTERIOR OF STIRLING CASTLE HAVE BEEN RESTORED TO SHOW OFF PERIOD DECOR
» BEHIND THE WALLS OF STIRLING CASTLE
We carried on down the edge of the loch in spitting rain, pulling into lay-bys as needed to dodge a stream of massive timber trucks. The bright autumn colours were still a couple of weeks from their peak, and it was a deciduous tunnel of quiet russets and golds and ambers. We stopped at the Falls of Foyer, a placid and picturesque spot that would be good for a picnic in clear weather. It was pleasant even in the rain, but the signboards and explanations pointed to a history of famous visitors that seemed far out of proportion to the modesty of the view. I didn’t know who Foyers was, but he was clearly a marketing guru before they existed. Carrying on through the weather we left the forested road that was hard against the loch’s edge and entered slightly higher ground, with the land dipped and folded, and where wide vales were covered with dun and yellow grasses and patches of stunted trees, pressed down by the ever present mattress of racing grey clouds. It was bleak and damp, and it was pleasant to pull in to Fort Augustus, a small and charming tourist town that held down the southwestern end of the loch. Paying for fuel brought us front and centre with the cash cow that a mythical monster provided. Whatever the case for Nessie may be, it’s clearly good for business. In addition to the ubi uitous Scottish ag pins and the all- -got-was-thislousy-T-shirt” T-shirts—that I have yet to see anybody over six and under 60 wear outside of Orlando—it was all Nessie, all the time. Nessie fridge magnets, Nessie key rings, Nessie ball www.outpostmagazine.com
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DANIEL WICKIE
ALL INSET PHOTOS: DANIEL WICKIE
» THE ROYAL PALACE AT STIRLING CASTLE, ONCE A PRIME PLACE OF SCOTTISH CULTURE, POWER AND POLITICS
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LE
DANIEL WICKIE
DANIEL WICKIE
ISTOCKPHOTO/ASTALOR
» STIRLING CASTLE COMMANDS THE LANDS AROUND IT. HERE, THE WILLIAM WALLACE MEMORIAL CAN BE SEEN FROM ONE OF THE CASTLE’S BATTLE PORTS
caps, Nessie plush toys. It felt like a sad parody of Bubba’s shrimp soliloquy from Forrest Gump: “Coconut Nessie, Nessie and potatoes, Nessie salad, Nessie sandwich.” After a disappointing bowl of cullen skink, the unfortunately named Scottish fish soup the fish people clearl could have used some marketing assistance from the fellow that helped out the alls of o er we trucked northeast toward r uhart Castle. This side of the loch was mostly coniferous trees crowding the road, and our landlad was right the views were magnificent and open manhandled the four c linder rental car as though was in a W commercial in avaria, while on the radio unintelligible Welsh DJs introduced Katy Perry songs with impossible strings of consonants. r uhart astle sat sentinel on the lakeshore, a tumbled ruin that spread across a substantial amount of ground. Its square keep maintained enough of its shape and crenellated battlements that would have given it pride of place in a Dungeons & Dragons manual. It was taken and retaken many times in its 700-odd year history, parts of it blown up in the th centur , other parts blown down in a fierce storm, and its ruins raided for building stone. dward took it in , during the first fight for Scottish independence obert the ruce was here t was given as a treasure for some favour or another to various noblemen, and pressed b fierce clans from the west espite the handful of nearl unscathed or renovated castles that dot the countr , it www.outpostmagazine.com
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is shattered r uhart, lashed b the wind and lapped b the loch, that signals the perfect visual of Scottish histor , lonel and dramatic and mournfully watchful. Rain again lashed the windshield as we pulled out of nverness, backtracking down to ort ugustus en route to Stirling We passed en evis, at more than , metres the highest peak in the British Isles, but it was frustratingly shrouded in fog and cloud and invisible This was clearl par for the course pun intended and started to warm to the constant rain and cloud. We carried on through to Glen oe, weaving between gentle high points and rolling vales now took the weather as part of the landscape, and stopped looking for endless vistas and more for a holistic, if damp, familiarity. The weather remained Scottish all the way to Stirling. Stirling Castle, like Edinburgh Castle, sat on a rocky promontor high above the plains ften called the eart of Scotland, it was the gatewa to the ighlands we had ust left am normally not one for tourist attractions, but Stirling Castle was magnificent ike most Scottish castles its histor stretched back a thousand years, and saw all manner of sackings and sieges and assorted handovers and betra als urrentl overseen b istoric Scotland, it now functions as a tourist attraction, a museum, and the ceremonial regimental headquarters for a militar unit arts of the castle have been meticulousl restored
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A wander through the rooms saw tapestries and ornamentation, and a recreation of a medieval kitchen. It looked and felt like what one’s imagination would conjure on hearing the word castle. Walking the walls, one could see the impressive command the castle had over the surrounding approaches. Cannons were arrayed along the battlements, holding a vigil no longer necessary. In the distance, the curious-looking William Wallace monument thrust skyward from a distant hill, looking as though it had been designed by Gaudi. From another angle, you could see roughly where pivotal Bannockburn lay. In 1304, Edward I laid siege to the castle, using a massive and fearsome trebuchet, a style of catapult used in medieval times, that he named “Warwolf,” which is believed to have been the largest in history. Some accounts put it at 400 feet long, and capable of hurling 300-pound rocks hundreds of metres in the air. Just one of these missiles was reputed to have taken down a large portion of Stirling’s wall. I tried to imagine a medieval army in siege mode, with the distant whinny of horses and steel on steel as men moved under arms, loading and aiming trebuchets, while campfires dotted the plain. For a small contingent of defenders, it must have been a terrifying sight. We wandered the grounds within MARCH/APRIL • 2015
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» SIGNS OF THE YES VOTE WERE PROMINENT THROUGHOUT SCOTLAND
ISTOCKPHOTO/AARSTUDIO
DANIEL WICKIE
DANIEL WICKIE
» ILLUMINATED BY THE SETTING SUN, THE WILLIAM WALLACE MEMORIAL STANDS TALL ON A HILLTOP NEAR STIRLING CASTLE
»
the walls and spotted in a quiet corner a small Garden of Remembrance, where the regiment memorialized their fallen. t the base of the pla ue was a bou uet of fresh owers Two days previously, the shooting at the War Memorial in Ottawa had occurred. The soldier killed, Corporal Nathan Cirillo, was a member of the Canadian Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders, the parent unit of which was based here at Stirling astle en uired to a guard about the fresh owers e, he responded, e We had the ag at half-mast yesterday, for Nathan.” The wind came up then, stinging my eyes. At least that’s what I told myself. We took a room at a local hotel that had mediocre reviews and a peculiar dead-horse-meets-ammonia stench about it, but I didn’t care. It was located within bowshot of the annockburn battlefield There was a roughly 30-year stretch from 1296 to 1328 that marked the First War of Scottish Independence. (There was a second, from 1332 to 1357, and arguably a third, 2014 and likely the coming few years—but that one was and would likely be fought with pen and ballot.) The first few ears of the irst War are roughl ver roughl www.outpostmagazine.com
23/02/2015 3:34:21 PM
DANIEL WICKIE
ISTOCKPHOTO/AARSTUDIO
» FURTHER NORTHWEST THAN OUR AUTHOR VENTURED IS THE STUNNING ISLE OF SKYE, WITH ITS CLIFFSIDE KILT ROCK WATERFALL—MAGNIFICENT COASTAL SCOTTISH HIGHLAND
what are covered in Braveheart The movie s final scene, with the image of a waving sword plunged in the ground, as el Gibson narrates gravel , The fought like warrior poets The fought like Scotsmen nd won their freedom, refers to annockburn The ear was Stirling astle was then held b nglish forces, and threatened b the Scots under obert the ruce There was a deal in place that it would be surrendered if it were not relieved b mid-summer This was late une, and dward , still in the shadow of his father, dward , led forces to do so The nglish outnumbered the Scottish forces b half again and possibl double ut the Scots were deplo ing a techni ue known as a schiltron, which roughl translates as shield-wall ssentiall , it was a formation of spearmen with interlocking shields, and bristling with pikes and massive hand-held spears When e ecuted properl and in concert with trained and disciplined men, it could be used offensivel , and was almost impregnable to even the heav horse cavalr that dward had with him. The nglish could not break the schiltrons, and what should have been a serious battle but a fairl hand nglish victor turned into a rout Thousands of the nglish were killed over the two da s of the battle, with almost no Scottish casualties, and the remainder, including ing dward himself, ed, www.outpostmagazine.com
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harried and picked at b pursuing Scottish forces t was an nglish defeat of massive proportions, and resonates with the Scottish character even toda s ngus onstam writes in his book annockburn t is no coincidence that the Scottish irst inister declared that the referendum on Scottish independence would be held in , the th anniversar of annockburn The attle of annockburn led to a treat , which was followed b more battles, mostl Scottish losses, as the fight for independence ebbed and owed like a blood tide, and the decades turned into centuries and the hot passions for war cooled with political marriages and ties of blood, however distant ltimatel the nion was declared in , and as the world moderni ed, the fighting between ngland and Scotland was relegated to the football pitch ut thought back to what the guitarist had said the week before t didn t happen this time, but it will happen again ne da , we ll have a nation
Daniel Wickie travelled through Scotland in October 2014, just after its historic vote on independence, which the world watched with bated breath. Although being autumn it was cool and rainy, sunny skies do eventually rise over Scotland.
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SCOTLAND, UNITED KINGDOM TIME: GMT+0
POPULATION: approx. 5.3 million
DOCUMENTATION
CAPITAL CITY: Edinburgh
Canadian passport holders require a valid passport and can stay for up to six months without a visa, as long as they have a return ticket and enough funds to support themselves.
LANGUAGE
Of course, the official and main language is English—but that Scottish brogue is so thick at times you’d think they were speaking a different language. It’s worth noting, that it might take a while of being in-country to decode local colloquialisms! Some Gaelic also spoken.
Drumnadrochit Urquhart Castle Loch Ness
Scotland
Fort Augustus
MONEY
Aberdeen
Dundee
Scotland uses the Great Britain pound (GBP/pound sterling), with credit and debit cards widely accepted. Scotland actually issues its own Scottish pound bank notes that are interchangeable with those from the Bank of England.
Stirling Bannockburn Heritage Centre
Nort h
rth
No
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nel
UNITED KINGDOM
Ireland
I
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a
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England Wales tic Cel
Sea
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Eng
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ha sh C
TEXT BY SIMON VAUGHAN; ILLUSTRATION BY SERGIO D. SPADAVECCHIA
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GETTING THERE By air and train: There are daily direct ights from numerous anadian cities to ondon, ngland, and less fre uent, sometimes seasonal ights from some cities directl to Glasgow, Scotland, and even dinburgh rom ondon the train takes - hours to cover the appro -km distance to dinburgh, with food available on board; or ou can in about an hour sea There are ferries from reland to a number of Scottish ports as well as from olland that go to ull and ewcastle in the north of ngland T Scotland offers ever thing from camping and hostels to lu ur hotels and castles with rentable rooms or something a little different and culturall uni ue tr sta ing at an inn, pub or restaurant an such places have a few rooms on offer that range from basic comfort to unforgettable bouti ue; but all have a great atmosphere as well as the opportunit to rub elbows with a few local folk over a plate of haggis and a wee dram of Scotch G TT G rail Scotland has an e cellent network
of trains Train tickets can be booked in advance online or through travel agents; or ou can simpl turn up and bu our ticket at the station, or most convenientl , even while on board the train The least e pensive tickets are those that restrict travel to off-peak times and are purchased well in advance There are also rail passes that offer great savings and feature unlimited use for a fi ed period of time which is perfect for an one wanting to see Scotland from top to bottom bus ou can get almost an where in Scotland b bus or motor coach, with numerous national and regional bus lines offering a comprehensive network of service Tickets can be bought in advance or at time of departure; but if planning to travel on statutor holida s or during peak times, it s best to bu in advance There are also bus passes that offer unlimited travel for a set period, and can include not onl Scotland but ngland and Wales inall , there are a few hop-on hop-off backpacker bus companies that cover the most common tourist sights, and often start and finish at hostels or similarl convenient spots Great for the budget traveller car t s eas to rent a car in Scotland, and ou can use our own national driving licence for up to
months ust remember ou drive on the left
in Scotland
W T G There s a price to pa for Scotland s verdant green countr side, and that s rain t doesn t rain all the time in fact, summers are often sunn and warm ut if ou re adverse to a little precipitation, it s best to avoid the cool, dark and all-too-often wet winters The autumn, September and ctober, is a lovel time to visit, with smaller crowds, less e pensive hotel rates and generall good weather The spring, arch to pril, is similarl welcoming f course, if ou do go in winter, not onl will ou save mone but there s all those opportunities to curl up near a roaring fire in a co pub to dr off and thaw out S We all know about haggis, but how about cock-a-leekie soup a heart brew of chicken and leek ; rbroath smokies smoked haddock, ideall from rbroath ; kedgeree a spic mi ture of smoked fish, rice and eggs ; black pudding a sausage-like patt made of pork blood and oatmeal ; neeps and tatties parsnips and potatoes or cranachan a dessert of cream, hone , whisk , fresh fruit and oatmeal
Âť CASK ALES ARE DISPENSED FROM A HAND-PUMP IN A PUB
ven with the dramatic rise in craft breweries making craft beer across orth merica, there s still a subset of beer one should hunt for cask ales f ou left the mass produced sallow and tasteless beers of our grandparent s da long ago, but the rise of craft seems to be a competition on who can make the hoppiest product since someone thought to put a kangaroo on a trampoline ou owe it to ourself to check out cask ales Traditionall made in ritain, the ampaign for eal le defines real ale as beer brewed from traditional ingredients, matured b secondar fermentation in the container from which it is dispensed, and served without the use of e traneous carbon dio ide ll of which make ales atter than standard beers The are also t picall but not alwa s lower in alcohol content, and served at slightl warmer temperatures than our average lager or pilsner in a anadian pub s the don t travel well, ou are usuall drinking something that is uite local The depth of character and notes of avour ma surprise ou The are traditionall dispensed from the cask using a hand pump, which adds an element of tradition and ritual to our pint ot for ever one, and not as ubi uitous as the are in Great ritain, but well worth the effort to find, if ou can appreciate real beer the original wa it was meant to be en o ed or more information on pubs and breweries that have cask ale near ou, tr one of these websites www oncask ca or www camra ca - W www.outpostmagazine.com
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DANIEL WICKIE
THE CASE FOR CASK (OR REAL) ALE
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23/02/2015 3:35:37 PM
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SOARING OVER CANYONS, TREKKING THROUGH VALLEYS, RAFTING ON WHITEWATER AND CHILLING ON BEACHES—WE SHOW YOU WHY WE NAMED THIS SOUTH AMERICAN GEM AS ONE OF 2015’S TOP DESTINATIONS
Riding the big waves down the Chicamocha River
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COLOMBIA
ey, with Simon Vaughaeyn Story By Robert J. Brod d Robert J. Brod Photos by Ryan Edwardson an
R E P O R T
D O O G SO
d to d the
A D V E N T U R E
T L E F R E V E N G N I H T A E R B
ood, so he
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COLOMBIA
EL DORADO
The name is legendary in exploration and adventure. Synonymous with thrillseeking and reward, the hunt for the rumoured city of gold has filled books and movies for years, not to mention the imagination of scoreless generations of adventurers. Although El Dorado remains a jungle-bound enigma, centuries of explorers have landed on palm-fringed shorelines, hiked dense tropical forest, climbed snowcapped mountains and active volcanos, and trekked across deep winding canyons, all in search of the fabled, ancient city.
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And all those intrepid explorations took place in present-day Colombia, which is why Team Outpost decided to follow in their footsteps—and hoof-marks, canoe-wakes and paragliding vortexes—to explore one of the world’s great adventure destinations. Located at the crossroads of South and Central America, Colombia was the first country in South America to be colonized by the Spanish in 1525 (they first set foot there in 1499), and is believed by anthropologists to be among the first on the continent to be inhabited by humans. With a spine of volcanoes and jagged Andean Mountains surrounded by verdant Amazon jungle, as well as lined by both the Caribbean Sea and Pacific Ocean, Colombia has captured the imagination of all whose travels have taken them there for the past 10 millennia or so—imagine that! After some difficult decades late in the last century, a settled and thriving Colombia is once again beckoning explorers in search of spectacular scenery, endless adventure, rich culture, unique cuisine, unrivalled music, warm people, unspoiled nature—and perhaps, even El Dorado itself. From the capital city of Bogotá—the gateway to Colombia for most visitors—to the far Amazonian south, from the high Andes to remote and tropical beaches, Colombia genuinely has something for everyone, and as a growing travel destination it provides the opportunity to be among the first to rediscover one of the southern continent’s great treasures. Bogotá was founded shortly after the arrival of Christopher Columbus, from whom the country gained its name. Perched at more than 2,600 metres, it provides a wonderful introduction to a country rich with coffee, gold, history and the arts. Where better to grow accustomed to the altitude than in La Candelaria: a cobblestoned neighbourhood brimming with colonial buildings, world-famous museums and wonderful restaurants. You can venture to neighbouring Monserrate Mountain and ride a funicular for a spectacular view of the entire city, or simply acclimatize by hopping from café to café, drinking in great local music and the stunning Latin vibe. From Bogotá, you are bound for rewards in Colombia as great as those of El Dorado. Unspoiled rainforest; renowned and hidden archaeological ruins; friendly fishing villages; both vibrant and undiscovered beaches; classic historic colonial towns; breathtaking mountain vistas; and the scents of exotic flowers, sea breezes and the world’s best coffee. Along the way, you can hike and trek, climb and soar, raft and canoe—or simply chill, all while mixing with cowboys and salsa dancers, indigenous guides and archaeologists, fashion designers and artists, and perhaps even a few modern-day adventurers still seeking their own fortune in the lost city of gold.
»
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» PARAGLIDING HIGH ABOVE THE STUNNING CHICAMOCHA CANYON
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» GOLD TREASURES OF THE MUSEO DEL ORO, BOGOTÁ
R.J.B. R.E.
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» EXPLORING BOQUILLA’S MANGROVE FOREST OUTSIDE CARTAGENA
R.J.B.
» A CULTURAL DISPLAY ALONG THE BANKS OF THE AMAZON RIVER
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» SCOTT WILSON, SMITTEN WITH "THE POCKET MONKEY" IN THE AMAZONAS
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URBAN PLEASURE:
» A RIDE UP TO MONSERRATE, ABOVE BOGOTÁ
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»
» THE MUSEO DEL ORO
R.J.B.
from Bogotá to Medellín to the Quaint Spots in Between
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» THE ARCHBISHOPRIC CATHEDRAL IN BOGOTÁ
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Where World-class Modern Meets Cool Colonial Charm
W
hen conjuring up images of Colombia, many of us wouldn’t automatically think of big cities. But unlike most of its Latin American neighbours, Colombia’s population is actually largely urban, with only 25 percent of its 48 million citizens calling the countryside home. Another interesting fact: just as Canadian cities have their rivalries, so too do Colombia’s metropolises. In fact, the two biggest cities, Bogotá and Medellín, have a sibling rivalry of titanic proportions. The funny thing is that Rolos (people from Bogotá) actually think Medellín is pretty cool. The Paisas, inhabitants of Medellín, on the other hand, don’t always return the love (sound familiar, Toronto and Montreal?). But we’re not here to take sides, so let’s get down to what some of Colombia’s biggest urban centres have to offer. f ou are ing to olombia, there s a good chance ogot
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will be your gateway into the country. On the surface, Bogotá appears to be another sprawling city tucked between the folds of several mountains. Spend some time walking its streets and your impression of Bogotá will likely change. This is a city on the move, and a great deal of the country’s business is done here. But it’s not all suits and ties, either. Arguably, the most famous neighbourhood in Bogotá is colonial Candelaria, its historic old town. Here, we could see and feel history at every turn—whether dining in 19th-century surroundings, or being schooled in more recent political events at the Justice Palace. At night, university students gather near the campus, the plaza hopping with music and celebratory drink. Other highlights include the gold museum, El Museo del Oro, which houses thousands of priceless gold artifacts created by the multitude of indigenous tribes that inhabited the region prior
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to the arrival of the Spanish. Internationally acclaimed artist Fernando Botero—oh, he of the well-rounded, voluminously rotund figures ma have been born in edell n, but his namesake museum sits comfortabl in La Candelaria. inall , to get the big picture, a trip b tram to the hilltop of onserrate is the wa to go or, if ou re feeling fit, ou can hike up onserrate not onl offers great views of the valle below, but it s also a pilgrimage site for those visiting the church and the statue of Se or a do, the allen hrist ven though edell n was established wa back in the th centur , it certainl isn t a cit stuck in the past n recent ears, it has been making waves and plent of top lists as a travel destination So what s the deal n a word, urban planning n , edell n was voted the ost nnovative it of the ear in a prestigious international competition lso in
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R.J.B.
» ZIPAQUIRÁ’S SALT CATHEDRAL, 200 METRES UNDERGROUND
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» LLAMAS OUTSIDE THE CATHEDRAL DOORS
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» NIGHT TIME IN BOGOTÁ'S EXQUISITE CANDELARIA NEIGHBOURHOOD
edell n s favour is its moderate climate Sitting at , metres above sea level, the weather is consistentl gorgeous, hence its nickname, The it of ternal Spring There are plent of galleries, theatres, green spaces and caf s to keep Paisas and visitors alike stoked to be there t appro imatel , inhabitants, the northern cit of Santa arta certainl isn t the biggest kid on the block but it possesses man great attributes, including a gorgeous aribbean coastline, some funk neighbourhoods, and an incredible histor ounded in b the Spanish con uistador odrigo de astidas, Santa arta is, in fact, the first Spanish settlement in olombia We wandered Santa arta s cobbled streets in the warm evening air and ate along one of its bustling pedestrian boulevards and were instantl charmed b the local laidback vibe
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R.E.
FOCUS BEYOND THE FEAR
“If
you fall out of the raft in fast water, avoid the rocks and point your feet downriver,” our guide explained during preparations for taking on Class III and IV rapids on the Chicamocha River. I went deaf with fear, and couldn’t focus on anything beyond my dread. Was I really up for this? What was the point? I could have easily caught the bus out of the valley and instead spent the afternoon very safely poolside. Still, when we were instructed to lift the in atable raft and carr it over our heads, abided Whitewater rafting is one of those activities that draws international adventure seekers to a region, whether it’s Peru, New Zealand or Canada. It’s natural, thrilling, and requires teamwork, which makes it quite the bonding experience to boot. It’s also a thoroughly wet event, and so anything that needed to stay dry was sealed away in a barrel strapped into the boat. From the standpoint of photography, this made waterproof cameras king of the whitewater (I strapped mine to my helmet). With the raft suspended above our heads, we marched toward the river at the bottom of the Chicamocha Canyon, and dropped it into the churning brown water. Floating down a chocolate river couldn’t be all bad, right? Right! Besides, this was a thoroughl professional outfit with a lead safet kayak in case one of us was ejected from the raft. Oh boy. I wedged my feet under the rubber folds of the raft and clutched my paddle tightly by the T-grip. And we were off. My fellow opX Colombia teammate Scott Wilson advised that the more I paddled, the more stable I’d become. That seemed counterintuitive—but at that moment I needed to believe him o sooner had we begun oating downstream
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» HEADLONG INTO THE WATERS OF THE CHICAMOCHA RIVER
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» AFTER THE RAPIDS, TEAM OUTPOST IS ALL SMILES
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Rafting the swirling whitewater of the Chicamocha—lessons not left at the river than the river tugged us ever more uickl toward the first set of rapids. I hollered and paddled hard and immediately sensed I was secure in my place on the side of the raft—just as Scott had promised. Waves crashed over us like we were on the open sea in a tempest. The watery smackdown made me laugh out loud with the thrill. No sooner had it begun than we were spat out the other side. With our first lass under our belts, we cheered and tapped paddles. We had but a few minutes to admire the staggering beauty of the remote Chicamocha Canyon (a.k.a. the Grand Canyon of Colombia) before we locked horns once more with the river rapids, tossed like salad, hurled precariously close to the giant boulders that peppered the river. Of course, Colombia is a country of vast natural gifts and the Chicamocha Canyon is just one of many places where the rivers run long and fast, providing awesome whitewater rafting opportunities. Among the hotspots is the stunning Magdalena River that is 540 kilometres south of Bogotá. There is also the Rio Negro close to the capital city, the Barragan River in the department of Quindio in coffee-growing country, and the Suarez and Fonce Rivers in the same region as the Chicamocha (Santander). As we helped our guides haul the gear out of the valley, I was still beaming from my river experience, having gone from total fear to total exhilaration. As for the answer to my own question about the point of whitewater rafting: to be in the presence of a force far greater than ourselves, and to push outward our sense of limits and what we are capable of. This lesson wasn’t left at the river. I will carry it for the rest of my life.
23/02/2015 4:43:00 PM
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For a time, Colombia was synonymous with elite competitive cycling—now it’s a cultural pastime
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A LOVE AFFAIR WITH CYCLING
» CICLOVÍA IS A WAY OF LIFE EVERY SUNDAY IN MANY OF COLOMBIA’S BIG CITIES
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mountain-biking opportunities. The hills and canyons around San Gil, five hours north of ogot , is one locale to spin our legs, test your lungs, and just get dirty. The area surrounding Medellín also has some great single track. If you need more proof that cycling has gone mainstream in Colombia, look no further than the many car-free streets in ogot ever Sunda and holida from a m to p.m. Ciclovía, as it’s known, began in the capital city way back in , and spread to other urban centres, like ali and Medellín. Not so long ago, some politicians who opposed closing the streets to vehicular traffic tried to stop the event b declaring that it created traffic ams; but a public uprising ensured that their efforts to end the weekly cycle-way were driven off track es, pun intended We got the chance to cruise Bogotá one Sunday morning, renting bikes and rubbing metaphorical shoulders with other cyclists, as well as joggers, walkers and skateboarders. Getting around by bike is liberating and allowed us to cover more ground, see more neighbourhoods and feel like we were part of something big—on average, an astounding two million people come out each week to en o the ciclov a Build it and they will come, as they often say. That’s what Bogotá learned when they developed a vast network of dedicated bike lanes throughout the city. An estimated 300,000 to 400,000 trips are now made by bike every single day. No doubt, Colombia’s love affair with the bike is only going to grow. This is one “cycle” I hope the country will never grow out of. R.E.
And for good reason. Colombians born and raised in the mountains have not only developed high-altitude physiology, but to get anywhere they have to haul themselves up and over some sizeable mountain passes. There is no mistaking the highlands of olombia with the ats of olland In the 1980s, the Colombians built their reputation as international powerhouses with c clists like uis errera and Fabio Parra riding high on the European circuit. Time passed, and the sheen wore off. But not for long. A new crop of top-drawer racers have made their way onto some of the best European teams. In 2013, Nairo Quintana placed second in the Tour de France, then went on to win the 2014 edition of the Giro d’Italia. And he isn’t alone, with other Colombians like Rigoberto Urán, Julian Arredondo, and Esteban Chaves showing their chops. But cycling in Colombia isn’t reserved only for elite athletes. As Team Outpost drove around the highlands north of Bogotá, we saw dozens of amateurs winding and grinding their way up over some brutal looking mountain passes. Not surprisingly, Colombia also has plenty of phenomenal R.E.
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hrough the millennia, Colombia’s social and political development has no doubt been shaped by its vast and varied geography. With mountains, jungles and thousands of kilometres of shoreline, these natural barriers lead to more independent regional development. These dramatic landscapes have even shaped their athletes. If you follow professional cycling, then you probably know that Colombia, for a time, was synonymous with elite cycling, particularly in the mountains.
26/02/2015 12:29:28 PM
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TRIPPING
Treks not measured by difficulty but by impressions they leave on your soul
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uman evolution brought us to the edge of the 227-kilometre long Chicamocha Canyon in the heart of Colombia—with the help of handy inventions like planes and cars. From there, we relied on our bipedal abilities to hike the 12-km trail down to the Chicamocha River.
The canyon was already getting toasty when we set off, and our local guide recommended we each consume two litres of water along the way. That sounded like a lot—but we knew the canyon gets as hot during the day as it does cold at night. We stopped often to photograph the grand vistas that appeared at every turn, and soon the temperatures climbed from hot to downright sizzling. But even with the sun melting us, I was happy to be there. I crave the outdoors in the same way people crave chocolate or ice cream which also do nd find there is something elemental about hiking, as if it fulfills some fundamental aspect of human nature or better connects us with our past. Located 54 kilometres from Bucaramanga, the 46-millionyear-old Chicamocha Canyon is one of the largest in the world and bursts with geological history. Long ago, the region was a giant lake teeming with marine life, whose fossilized remains can now be found sandwiched between the can on s stratified layers, stacked two kilometres high in some places. The canyon itself was formed by the powerful forces of water washing away the soil, which is hard to imagine, given how dry it was when we were there. By the time we got to the bottom, I recognized the wisdom of consuming two litres of water, but perhaps too late. I felt pretty heat-fatigued. After drinking several glasses of local fruit juice and popping some salt pills, I was soon on the mend and ready for more exploration of this truly incredible and utterly breathtaking edifice
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» CHICAMOCHA CANYON, MILLIONS OF YEARS IN THE MAKING, BREATHTAKING VIEWS AT EVERY TURN
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THE HIGH FANTASTIC
I don’t measure the greatness of a hike by my level of comfort, but rather by the impression left on my soul. Chicamocha definitel impressed me Colombia is a hiker’s paradise and the canyon isn’t the only game in town. One of the most popular parks in Colombia is Los Nevados National Natural Park in the Cordillera Central of the Colombian Andes. It offers a staggering amount of variety, from snowcapped volcanoes to cobalt-blue lagoons, with thousands of plant species as well as an impressive variety of mammals. The park is also home to the 5,300-metre volcano Nevado del Ruiz, which erupted in 1985, killing an estimated 25,000 people, mostly by ensuing mud slides. Even today the park is occasionally closed due to volcanic activity, so it’s always best to check ahead before making plans to hike there. From high mountains to coastal scenery, toward the northeast of the country near Venezuela, the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountain range juts from the shores of the Caribbean Sea. The hiking opportunities are endless, including four-day to six-day treks to The Lost City (Ciudad Perdida), built by the Tayrona Indians sometime between the eighth and 14th centuries. Tens of thousands of indigenous people, including the Kogi, Wiwa, Arhuaco and Kankuamo groups live in these mountains. If you’re a jungle person and like a bit of wildlife and some hot and steamy trekking, then it’s Colombia’s far south for you. Take a ight to eticia, the capital of the department of the Amazonas, and hit the jungle trails. The Amazon is vast, wild and wet, and provides plenty of options to explore the natural world on its own terms. Whether your ideal trek is high mountain passes or exploring ancient sites, being caressed by ocean breezes or hacking through verdant rainforest, Colombia’s hiking options are as diverse as the country’s wonders.
23/02/2015 4:47:42 PM
» VILLA DE LEYVA’S FAMED PLAZA MAYOR
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» TAKING A RIDE ON THE WILD SIDE
HISTORIC VILLA DE LEYVA
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hey were still cleaning up the Plaza Mayor when Team Outpost arrived. The previous night thousands had gathered to celebrate Little Candles Day ( Día de las Velitas), a holiday marked by lighting lanterns, candles and fireworks. It’s a big deal in Colombia and rings in the unofficial start of the Christmas holiday season (on December 7).
The square itself almost seemed to be nursing a hangover that morning, as cleaners swept the cobbled streets. I could almost hear the town itself murmur, Lo siento. No estoy en mi mejor momento —I am sorry, I’m not at my best. Villa de Leyva is Colombia’s festival-central; but when it’s not hosting one of its many annual events—for kites and independent film, among other things it is a picture-perfect, relatively tranquil colonial town of 10,000 people. Founded way back in 1572, in a valley 2,000 metres up in the Andean highlands, it s considered one of the finest e amples of a colonial town in Colombia. Lately, more and more people from Bogotá (four hours by car) have been drawn to its historic streets and pleasant, dry climate. Rolos (people from Bogotá, as I mentioned earlier!) aren t the first ones to appreciate illa de e va n previous centuries, it was a retreat for militar officers, clerg and nobility, and was declared a national monument in 1954. But the town itself isn’t all there is to this corner of Colombia; the entire area beckons visitors and e plorers e ond the thcentury churches and Spanish-style villas awaits a landscape of undulating hills There are man wa s to e plore the
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» STOPPING TO REST DURING A RIDE THROUGH COLOMBIA’S BADLANDS
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Colombia’s festival-central thrives in the culture of the Andean Highlands
countr side, including b and uad bike tours Team Outpost opted for a quieter option and mounted horses. It was a meandering affair through the badlands that led us first to the tur uoise mineral-rich waters of the o os ules We took in the views, then trotted on to l sil, a museum just outside Villa de Leyva. Here, we were treated to a ginormous 110-million-year-old kronosaurus boyacensis fossil, which was uncovered in 1977 by a farmer tilling his field This bab literall , it was a bab is seven metres long without its tail (estimates put its total length at 12 metres, all in t that si e, shuddered to think of getting between junior and Mister and Missus Kronosaurus. We traded our four-legged transportation for a pickup truck and sped along the dirt roads, leaving a dust cloud in our tracks. In time, we piled out of the truck at the Muisca astronomical observatory, an archaeological site dating back almost two millennia o ens of phallic-shaped sandstone monoliths dotted the grass field, which were used b the ancient Muisca Indians to calculate the planting seasons based on the stones’ alignment with the sun and moon. When the Spanish arrived the were none too pleased to see the local indigenous using the site for “pagan” ceremonies, so they nicknamed the place Little Hell ( l nfiernito). Our guide Andrés was clearly moved to be there. For him, the astronomical observatory isn’t just another archaeological site. It’s a powerful reminder of his own indigenous ancestors. As the sun was beginning to set, we headed back to town, wondering what celebration might be awaiting us that night.
23/02/2015 4:54:32 PM
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» PREPARING FOR DEPARTURE
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CHICAMOCHA CANYON
Strapped to the front of a pilot’s harness and putting your faith in a total stranger
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GLIDING LIKE AN EAGLE OVER THE
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winding mountain road led Team Outpost to a knoll where paragliders were landing and taking off with the frequency of a hopping regional airport. On all but one side, the Chicamocha Canyon dropped off far below.
For the non-initiated, a paraglider looks something like a parachute, though the design and materials of the canopy allow for far more lift and control. This mid-twentieth century invention (and tweaked over decades) actually shares more in common with its cousin, the delta-winged hang-glider, and enables the ims -looking craft to sta in the air for a good long time. Chicamocha is one of many great paragliding spots in Colombia. In fact, with high mountains, deep canyons and great weather throughout the country, Colombia is one of the best places in the world to take the soaring plunge, whether as a veteran paragliding pilot, or a novice more interested in the tandem experience. No sooner had we arrived at the canyon than I was strapped to the front of a pilot’s harness like a baby being secured to his/her parent. As a paragliding newbie, I was forced to put my faith in the hands of a total stranger (I was sure to let him know that I have a three-year-old son—so you know, don’t kill me!). After a safety check, I was given instructions to run to the end of the hill, and, in no uncertain terms, not stop or raise my legs until we were airborne. Yet before I even had a chance to run, we were snatched from the ground by strong winds that lifted the fabric wing
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up over our heads. I literally imagined myself as a mouse being carried off in the talons of a bird of prey. nce in ight, there was onl the blissful sound of wind in my ears and my feet dangling over the void. Strangely, I felt no fear hurtling through space, suspended beneath the 10-metre-long wing by only a network of thin cables. Perhaps it was the remarkable views of the canyon that kept me calm. The sun shone brightly, save for a single lone cloud ahead that was dumping a perfectly isolated shower on the vast and stunning valley below. couldn t be sure if we were in d namic ight riding the winds coming up off the ridge—or if it was a thermal (a current which occurs when the sun warms the surface and sends heat rising) that gave us our lift. Apparently, skilled pilots can gain altitude using a thermal, then glide down to the next thermal zone, just to rise once again. owever it was that our pilot kept us ing, it was prett cool to cruise above the majestic Chicamocha Canyon for nearly half an hour. Then the pilot thought I might fancy a high-altitude motion-fest, and so swung the paraglider back and forth in ight What he didn t reali e is that d been feeling slightly queasy from the switchback mountain roads and the antimalarial meds I’d been taking for Team Outpost’s ourne to the ma on, our ne t destination When the blood departed my brain and my eyes started to cross, I decided it best to forgo my embarrassment and asked the pilot to take me home. Fortunately, like everyone we met in Colombia, he kindly obliged.
23/02/2015 4:55:07 PM
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» COLOMBIA’S FOOD CULTURE IS ON EVERY CORNER
CUISINE TO SATISFY ANY R.E.
FOODIE FAN
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» GETTING TO THE MEAT OF THE COCONUT
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ood is one of those things we simply cannot live without—as fundamental to survival as oxygen and a heartbeat. That makes eating a universal phenomenon, whether it’s pancakes and maple syrup in Canada or fried ants in the Amazon. Before I even set foot in Colombia, I sensed it was a country of magnificent diversity, both culturally and geographically. One thing I somehow overlooked was the variety of the cuisine.
As it turns out, they are indeed a foodie culture! First of all, the region is a veritable fruit and vegetable basket, which helps explain why the food is so delicious. If I had to describe Colombian cuisine in one word, I’d call it hearty. By way of example, around Bogotá’s highlands, a creamy potato soup called Ajiaco is popular—made with chicken, various types of potatoes, cream, avocado, rice, and a corn on the cob stuck in for good measure. A typical plate found in and around Medellín includes red kidney beans, avocado, fried egg, rice, ground beef, fried plantain, pork sausages and a corn pastry called arepa. On Team Outpost’s travels, we had the chance to visit the famed Andres Carne de Res restaurant in the town of Chia. Beyond the surreal interior design (and even the surreal size: dining areas and five kitchens to keep , patrons fed , the assortment of meats presented to us would fulfill almost every carnivore’s food fantasies. Colombia, like much of South America, is big on carne, and while the needs of vegetarians aren’t always uppermost, it isn’t all doom and gloom for the non-meat eaters. In most places, we were able to order yucca, potato, patacones fried green plantains , rice, eggs and bread, along with cheese empanadas. Vegetarians could also gorge
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» SAMPLING THE CUISINE OF VILLA DE LEYVA
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From fresh papaya and mango to the best ceviche on offer
themselves on fresh papayas, strawberries, mangos, passion fruit, and any other fruit and vegetable imaginable. Along the Caribbean Coast, dishes take on a spicier note, with fish, lobster and coconut rice being common fare f course, where there is a coast, be it acific or aribbean, there is also ceviche raw octopus, shrimp, and fish cooked in citrus juice. Food variety isn’t limited to Spanish, Indigenous or Caribbean styles, either (or the fusion of all three, as is so often the case in olombia wave of immigration from the Middle East began in the late 19th century, and with it naturall came culinar in uences h, the beaut of the global diaspora! All this food talk is suddenly making me thirsty. On the drink menu, Colombia covers the gamut, including hot chocolate made with local cacao (and sometimes with a piece of cheese tossed in , iced shakes made with milk or water and fresh fruit, and one of my favourites, agua de coco fresh coconut water , which fre uentl bought from street vendors in Cartagena to rehydrate after a day in the sun. Colombia is also famous for its aguardiente, a potent sugarcane li uor, which can be made into Canelazo (served hot with boiled cinnamon water, raw cane sugar, and lime And yes, I am coming to Colombia’s world-class Arabica coffee, much of which is grown in the Zona Cafetera west of Bogotá. Perfect mid-altitude mountains snuggled just north of the e uator make for some spectacular terroir The coffee growing region is actually fed by the highest peaks in Colombia’s Central Mountain Range. Imagine pristine glacial waters in every cup of coffee. Now that’s worth waking up for.
23/02/2015 4:55:45 PM
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» A CANOPY WALK IN COLOMBIA’S AMAZON
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» CULTURAL EXCHANGES: A SHAMAN BLOWS TOBACCO
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» RYAN EDWARDSON SNAPPING PHOTOS 20 METRES ABOVE THE GROUND
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» THE FACES OF THE AMAZON RAINFOREST
23/02/2015 4:56:35 PM
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AMAZING
From Winding Rivers to Unending Rainforest, an Ancient Lowland Wonderland
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hen the Greek legend about a tribe of warriorlike women called “Amazons” first took shape, it was probably never imagined that millennia later, on a continent far far away, a Spanish conquistador would give the name and the myth a second life. Apparently, Francisco de Orellana got the inspiration to name the world’s largest river basin while doing battle (and losing) against an indigenous tribe near the great Amazon River, where the women fought fiercely alongside the men. The name just stuck.
regions anywhere on Earth. This helps explain why it’s one of the last places where uncontacted cultures still exist, and why there are hundreds of languages throughout the Amazon that are only spoken by a limited number of people. At daybreak, we hiked through the rainforest, where only about two percent of sunlight reaches the thriving oor We arrived at a giant tree with ropes hanging like vines, were harnessed and given a quick lesson on how to use ascenders, a mechanical device that allows us to scale the rope without sliding down. Then we climbed through three of the rainforest’s four layers (each with its own amazing ecosystem) to the wooden platform 35 metres up. For the next hour, we were at play, crossing from tree to tree on swinging bridges and ziplines, watching out for any of the hundreds of species of birds, monke s, butter ies and e otic wild owers final abseil brought us back to earth. n man wa s, the ma on is difficult to grasp glimpsed a stand of trees here, a spider there. But my eyes couldn’t begin to take in the planet’s largest rainforest, with its estimated 390 billion trees, 40,000 plant species, and 3,000 kinds of freshwater fish ost astounding, , invertebrate species are thought to crawl, utter, and dig here, too As we boarded a boat to take us up the Amazon River, I could see Brazil and Peru across the way (Leticia is a border spot)—yet the jungle rolled on in every direction, without hesitation. In no other place do borders seem more arbitrary and artificial than here, where the rivers ow as the please and the animals move along the natural contours of this magnificent unbroken landscape part of me will likel always remain in this breathtakingly beautiful place.
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Fast forward to now, and our (peaceful) Outpost team of inquiring minds made the two-hour journey by plane south from the temperate highlands of Bogotá to tropical Leticia, a port cit in olombia on the ma on iver Traffic sputtered and motorbikes were ubiquitous, though all roads ended just a few kilometres outside of town—in fact, the closest Colombian highway to Leticia is 800 kilometres away. Hence the crucial importance of the Amazon River for trade and transport. Around Leticia there’s plenty to do, without even venturing deep into the rainforest. We started with a 40-minute hike to a cultural centre run by an older local named Ramon. Dressed in traditional garb, he told us about the ancient worldviews and ritual practices of the Macuna people, traditions he admitted his children sadly have little interest in. His disappointment was palpable e went on to discuss the cultural significance of the coca and tobacco leaf in Macuna cosmology—then, without further ado, blew ground tobacco up my nose through a thin pipe. I like to think of the experience in anthropological terms: it’s called “participant observation”! The Amazon Basin is one of those rare places with so much land yet so few people, making it one of the least populated
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AMAZONAS
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23/02/2015 4:56:55 PM
INCREDIBLE
CARTAGENA
Where tropical sun and sea meet mysterious crackling forest
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usk had begun to settle over the cobblestone streets of Cartagena, when the faint sound of African drums called out. Team Outpost followed the music until we arrived at Plaza Bolívar, where several barefoot men and women spun and danced around each other like courting birds.
On the sidelines, a man played a long woodwind instrument, while others pounded out complex rhythms on traditional drums and shakers. The musical texture and vocal harmonies reminded me of Afro-Cuban and Brazilian music, which isn’t surprising, given we were taking in mapalé, a coastal dance/ music style brought to South America with the African slaves. The shadow of human history runs long in these parts, from the first human settlers arriving here perhaps , years ago, to a 21st-century skyline of soaring glass towers. It was the Spanish who established Cartagena in 1533 and made it a centre for the lucrative trade in precious metals, like the gold we’d seen in Bogotá’s museums. The mapalé street performance was a reminder of the slave trade that helped run the mines and cane fields that once filled Spain s vast coffers Cartagena was pillaged by French noblemen, held ransom by the English, and pretty much pestered by any pirate in the neighbourhood, prompting the Spanish to sink lots of money into its fortification and protection ur visit to the th-centur Castillo San Felipe de Barajas revealed the lengths the Spanish went to protect their investment—just standing beneath the formidable fortress walls left me feeling humbled and intimidated. All these efforts in centuries past earned Cartagena’s colonial city and fortress a UNESCO World Heritage site designation in 1984. The mid-19th century saw famines and cholera outbreaks in the city, which set the stage for Love in the Time of Cholera, a beautiful novel written by Colombia’s most famous author, Gabriel García Márquez (affectionately known as “Gabo”). For those fascinated with the grandfather of magic-realism, walking tours are available to see locales here featured in his books, as well as Gabo’s house and the old newspaper office where he cut his teeth as a ournalist If the old city walls are the container of Cartagena’s past, then perhaps what lies outside represents its future. The neighbourhood of Bocagrande features dense clusters of skyscrapers, beach resorts, and a thoroughly modern Miami-type vibe t s definitel a great place to walk the beach at sunset, or grab a pint at the local BBC pub (Bogotá Beer Company). As Cartagena has expanded, it has incorporated outlying communities into the fold, including the old fishing village of La Boquilla, which rests between the Caribbean Sea and sprawling mangrove. It’s here that Team Outpost set off in a canoe, while a local fisherman stood at the back, using a wooden pole to push off the ground in the shallow waters. Without a motor, we quietly glided through tunnels in dense mangroves that eventually brought us to a lake. Beneath open skies, we stood knee-deep in water and learned how to throw fishing nets and bait, and how to retrieve crab traps ow that s sustainable fishing, aribbean-st le After strolling the streets, following in Gabo’s ink-spotted steps, listening to music, soaking up the Caribbean sunshine, and standing in the old city’s long shadow, I can’t help but feel that if I was fortunate enough to return to Colombia, I’d find m self back in artagena doing it all over again
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» CARTAGENA’S NIGHTS SHINE BRIGHT
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» OVERLOOKING CARTAGENA’S BOCAGRANDE NEIGHBOURHOOD
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» CRUISING MANGROVES OUTSIDE CARTAGENA
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» HOW TO THROW A NET IN BOQUILLA’S MANGROVE FORESTS
» STREET SCENES IN CARTAGENA’S CENTRO NEIGHBOURHOOD
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» CARTAGENA’S FAMED FORTIFIED WALLS
23/02/2015 4:58:04 PM
TAYRONA NATIONAL PARK, AND THE CARIBBEAN COLOMBIAN COASTLINE
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» THE BEACHES OF TAYRONA ARE EASY ON THE EYE
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uring my early days of travel, when I’d pack my bags and leave home for up to four months at a time, I’d sometimes find myself on a beautiful beach and decide to hang a shingle there for a week or so. The open horizon of the ocean has always resonated as a place of infinite possibility. Right now, if time were never (ever!) an object, Colombia’s Tayrona National Park would be the place I’d blissfully hang my hat in—just to listen to the ocean and the rustling palm trees.
ocated about a five-hour drive north of artagena along the glorious aribbean coast, the entrance to Ta rona is far awa from the sound of the sea, and we hiked along rolling trails for minutes until we arrived at the shore t s this lack of direct access that helps make Ta rona so special, its remoteness naturall limiting the number of people who pass through there each ear There are no multistor resorts beachside, and the park rangers and indigenous people who call these lands home also keep a close e e on activities that could disturb the ecos stem The park itself is sandwiched between the aribbean Sea and the Sierra evada de Santa arta mountain range, which rises from sea level to a staggering , metres of altitude in ust kilometres That makes it the highest coastal massif in the world id mention it s a S biosphere reserve and home to , indigenous people, who centuries before escaped the pillaging con uistadores ow ou know ur da in Ta rona was spent meandering the paths linking the beaches, hanging out in the shade with our guide ndrés,
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» A BLISSFUL CAR-FREE STREET IN SANTA MARTA
and cooling off in that incredible sea The natural splendor was a feast for the e es, with ama ing rock formations and the tropical mountains rising above the trees behind us iodiversit is Ta rona s middle name, with species of plants, kinds of reptiles, species of mammals and t pes of birds, including the militar macaw and the lance-tailed manakin f ou sta up after dark, ou ma also be visited b some of the species of bats that call the park home won t even get into all the wildlife that thrives off Ta rona s gorgeous shores Some of olombia s best beaches lie along its , -kilometre aribbean coastline, including the hard to reach towns of apurgan and Sap urro in the hoc department, right along the border with anama olombia is divided into departments, like states or provinces There are do ens of islands off the coast of artagena as well, including the wildl popular slas del osario, and the less travelled slas de San ernardo further south The , -km acific oast is more rugged and humid than its aribbean cousin, but national parks like San uianga provide plent of opportunities to reach the beach s we waded into the aribbean Sea and hopped onto a boat to return us to the cit of Santa arta, was trul saddened to leave Ta rona and its urassic ark-st le wildness picture m self returning one da soon to spend more time wandering the hills and swinging in a hammock, soaking up those endless hori ons that seem to spark m sense of wonder and imagination
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By Air: ir anada offers nonstop direct si -hour ights from Toronto to ogot , while other airlines offer regular service from most anadian cities to olombia via ouston and allas in Te as, and from iami in lorida, among others Some anadian charter airlines also have direct service to coastal artagena, and to the island of San ndr s, km from the mainland By Land: lthough olombia borders anama, ra il, eru, ene uela and cuador, it onl has land border crossings with the latter two countries t this time, the anadian Government advises against entering or e iting olombia overland due to securit issues f ou choose not to follow this advice, ensure ou have the latest and most up-to-date information for an route nd never travel after dark By Water: ore cruise companies are now stopping in olombia n addition, there are riverboat connections between eticia in the ma on in the south and anaus, ra il and uitos, eru ikewise, there are sailboats and private charters that skirt the arien Gap and offer passage between anama and artagena
WEATHER & WHEN TO GO The weather varies considerabl throughout olombia verall, pril and ctober receive the greatest amount of rain, while ecember to ebruar sees the least Caribbean Coast: the best weather on olombia s aribbean coast is between ecember and arch The wettest time tends to be ctober Andes Mountains: the best time to e plore olombia s ndes is ecember to arch and ul to ugust uring the rain seasons pril- une, September- ovember roads can often become impassable The Amazon: the ma on iver and its tributaries are at their lowest water levels from ugust to ctober, making it a great time to e plore; however, e pect high humidit and occasional rains at an time Bogotá: the olombian capital gets its heaviest rains in pril and a , and September to ecember
R.J.B.
» HIKING THE SUBLIME CHICAMOCHA CANYON
GETTING AROUND olombia has a good network of roads and a number of national and intercit bus companies owever, as it s a large countr and man travellers have limited time and want to see sights scattered from the south to the north and be ond, the easiest wa to get around is b ing ll the main centres have airports, and domestic ights are fre uent, reliable and convenient
R.E.
R.J.B.
GETTING THERE
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» GALLOPING ALONG TAYRONA’S SHORES
R.J.B.
» BEACH DAY ON COLOMBIA’S CARIBBEAN COAST
R.E.
HEALTH Colombia has some of best medical care in all of South America, but it’s still advisable to consult a travel medicine professional before going. As Colombia ranges from jungle to mountain, cities to beaches, your health requirements will vary, depending on your in-country destination. Here are things to consider when planning your trip: In the Highlands and Mountains: Bogotá sits at 2,640 metres above sea level, and many of Colombia’s Andean communities are higher. Anyone arriving from sea level, or even just lower altitudes, may experience altitude sickness, which can be combatted by drinking plenty of liquids, not undertaking strenuous activity for a few days after arrival, and avoiding excessive alcohol intake until you’ve acclimatized. Also, ask your travel medicine professional about altitude sickness before leaving home. To the Jungle: Despite the abundance of water in most ungles, first-time visitors are often surprised to learn the re one of the easiest environments in which to succumb to dehydration. The intense heat and sapping humidity cause most people (particularly if engaging in activities such as trekking or canoeing) to perspire profusely, increasing the likelihood of dehydration. Whenever in a jungle or rainforest, always carry ample drinking water. Jungles are also home to many tropical microbes. Yellow fever, dengue fever, and malaria are all mosquito-borne illnesses. Visitors to the Amazon should not only dress appropriately (long sleeves and pants, solid shoe/boot, hat) and use mosquito nets at night, but also insect repellent with DEET. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention regard the likelihood of contracting malaria in Colombia as low, but still advise antimalarials if visiting the Amazon. These prophylactics, as well as inoculations against other diseases, should be done before travel. Along the Coast: Colombia has two coasts: the 1,760-km aribbean and the , -km acific oth offer beautiful beaches, though the country’s best resorts are found on the Caribbean. As with any beach stay, always be aware of the power of the sun—even more when you are closer to the equator. Wear sunblock, and when swimming or snorkelling it’s advisable to wear a rashguard or light shirt to avoid sunburns to your back or other exposed areas. Mosquitoes are present along both coasts, especially near mangrove swamps and forest, and standard precautions need to be taken against mosquito-borne diseases. In the City: While the water in Bogotá, Cartagena, Medellín, Cali and most major centres is treated, it’s still recommended that all visitors throughout the country opt for bottled water and practice caution with unwashed/unpeeled raw fruits and vegetables, ice, and food from street vendors.
» THE COASTAL MOUNTAINS OF SIERRA NEVADA DE SANTA MARTA
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R.J.B.
SAFETY Not so long ago, Colombia’s security situation ensured it was on most no-go travel lists. This has changed dramatically over the past decade. Today, Colombia—its cities in particular—is regarded as among the safest for visitors in all of Latin America. That said, all travellers should avoid exhibiting wealth, always be aware of their surroundings (especially at night) and take precautions against pickpockets.
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ISTOCKPHOTO/GARY C TOGNONI/ R.J.B.
FESTIVALS OF COLOMBIA
Between religious festivals, arts and music celebrations, folk displays, fairs, parades and just great parties, there is always something going on somewhere in olombia ere s the lowdown on some of the biggest and best festivals, though confirm all dates before making plans as calendars and schedules can be annuall e ible estivals are categori ed monthl b their start date
R.E.
JANUARY Carnival of Blacks and Whites, in Pasto. Originally an ancient celebration of the Pasto and Quillacinga Indians, in honour of the moon goddess to protect their crops, today’s carnival incorporates Spanish traditions and elements from African feasts to create a truly multicultural celebration. The Riosucio Carnival in Riosucio. The Carnaval del Diablo (Devil’s Carnival) takes place every other year and is Colombia’s longest annual festival, starting in July and ending the following January, with a carnival of dancing, poetry, music and parades. The Manizales Fair, in Manizales. An annual fair in coffee country, world-renowned for its bullfighting. The Hay Festival in Cartagena. An international literary, film, journalism, art and music festival. FEBRUARY-MARCH The Barranquilla Carnival, in Barranquilla. A UNESCO-recognized cultural and folkloric event. Described as a multicultural fusion of European, African and Amerindian traditions that include dancing, music and other festivities. The International Film Festival of Cartagena. Latin America’s only Ibero-American film festival. A must-participate for film and culture buffs. Holy Week (Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday). A countrywide celebration that includes processions, parades, an International Festival of Sacred Choral Music (in Pamplona), the Festival of Religious Music (in Popayan), and many other events.
JUNE Wayuu Culture Festival in Uribia. A celebration of the enormous cultural wealth of the indigenous Wayuu people that includes traditional music, rituals, customs and handicrafts. Bambuco National Folk Festival and Beauty Pageant: The Return to Andean Roots, in Neiva. Described as showcasing the typical rhythm of the Colombian Andes, a festival that celebrates the bambuco and includes parades, dancing, music and other events. Yipao Parade and Contest in Calarca. A unique coffee folklore celebration in a small coffee town. The Ibague Folk Festival: Cradle of Musical Culture. Ibague is known as the musical city of Colombia, and this event celebrates that heritage with an annual folk festival that sees plazas, parks and squares transformed into stages. The Joropo International Tournament, in Villavicencio. Considered the most important folk event in the plains of Colombia and Venezuela. Food, art shows, music, dancing and competitions (bull pulling) are included. JULY Colombiamoda, in Medellín, Colombia’s most important fashion event! AUGUST The Bandola de Sevilla Festival, in Sevilla. A fantastic festival of Colombian folk music.
Medellin Flower Fair. Medellin is sometimes known as the City of Eternal Spring, and as it blooms in colour it hosts a 10-day celebration with more than 140 cultural events. Petronio Alvarez Festival, in Cali. Colombia’s largest celebration of Afro-Colombian folklore and culture. Wind and Kite Festival, in Villa de Leyva. Strong winds and clear skies play host to thousands of professional and amateur kite builders and flyers! SEPTEMBER Manizales Theatre Festival. Close to 50 national and international theatre groups gather in Manizales every year to celebrate performance. Jazz in the Park, Bogotá. The Colombian capital’s world-famous jazz festival. San Pacho Feasts, in Quibdo. A four-week celebration of the Choco department’s patron saint, Saint Francis of Assisi, complete with parades and feasts. OCTOBER World Coleo Encounter, in Villavicencio. One of the world’s most important cowboy events, with demonstrations and competitions. NOVEMBER Independence of Cartagena, marked with parades and music, and culminates with the selection of “Miss Colombia.” International Amazonian Folk Music Festival, in Leticia. DECEMBER Festival of the Lights, Villa de Leyva. The best fireworks in all of Colombia! The Cali Fair. What better way to spend the time between Christmas and New Years than with parades, bullfights, salsa, concerts, dances and great food?
R.J.B.
APRIL-MAY The Ibero-American Theatre Festival, in Bogotá. One of the largest performing arts festivals in the world. The Bogotá International Book Fair. One of the largest and most important literary events in the world—just a great time to travel to Colombia! Festival of the Vallenato Legend in Valledupar.
A showcase for the traditional regional music of northeastern Valledupar, this is now one of Colombia’s most important music and folk festivals, featuring parades, shows, contests and fantastic local music. The Mono Nunez Festival, in Ginebra. If you love Andean folk music this is a must-go—billed as the most important annual music event in the Colombian Andes.
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COLOMBIA, SOUTH AMERICA
Natural Tayrona Cartagena Barú
TIME: UTC/GMT –5 HOURS
(same time zone as Eastern Time in Canada, with some exceptions for Daylight Saving Time).
st
POPULATION:
Ca
approx. 46,300,000
b rib
ea
oa C n
CAPITAL: Bogotá GEOGRAPHY:
Medellín
lain dP
lan
ss Gra
nt
COLOMBIA t res
fo ain nR
M de s
ECUADOR
Colombia uses the Colombian peso (COP), which is approximately 2,000 COP to the Canadian dollar. While credit cards are accepted at most major hotels and ATMs are widely available in cities and larger towns, once away from the beaten track, cash rules.
PERU
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s
Bogotá Bogot
azo
Am
An
Spanish is the official language of Colombia. English is also an official language on San Andrés, Providence and Santa Catalina, its islands in the Caribbean.
CURRENCY
Villa de Leyva
ou
ifi
Pa c
LANGUAGE
VENEZUELA
Parque Nacional Del Chicamocha (Panachi)
DOCUMENTATION
Canadian passport holders visiting Colombia as tourists do not require a visa and will be permitted to stay for up to 90 days.
BRAZIL
CANADIAN GOVERNMENT IN COLOMBIA Embassy of Canada:
Address: Cra. 7, No. 114-33, Piso 14, Bogotá Phone in-country: 57 (1) 657 9800 Email: bgota@international.gc.ca
CONSULATE OF CANADA:
Address: Edificio Centro Ejecutivo Bocagrande, Carrera 3, No. 8-129, Oficina No. 1103, Cartagena Phone in-country: 57 (5) 665 5838 Email: consuladocanada@une.net.co
Leticia Tabatinga
TEXT BY SIMON VAUGHAN; ILLUSTRATION BY SERGIO D. SPADAVECCHIA
ain
st
Ra n
Cali
ge
Los Nevados National Park
cC oa
Colombia is situated in northwestern South America, and is bordered to the north by Panama and the Caribbean Sea; by Venezuela to the east and Brazil to the southeast; Ecuador to the southwest and Peru to the south; and the Pacific Ocean to the west. Its approximately 1,142 million sq. km is defined by stunning coastlines, temperate highlands, the Andes Mountains, the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta Mountain Range, and the tropical lowlands of the Amazon Basin.
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AVECCHIA
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Setting out this spring.
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