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JULY 13, 2019, THE SYDNEY MORNING HERALD
RESORT WHERE MAURITIUS
CULTURE CLUB The cultural landscape is all part of the experience at this boutique hotel, writes Tatyana Leonov. Soap-maker Nathalie carefully pours two mixtures (a dark activated charcoal derived from the outer shell of the coconut plant and a cream-coloured calcium bentonite clay) into oval moulds. As the mixtures blend – a little like pouring milk into a shot of coffee – intricate patterns begin to materialise, leaving a unique kaleidoscopic effect. ‘‘No two soaps are the same,’’ Nathalie explains, glancing up to ensure that I’m watching. I’m enthralled with the soap-making process. It seems so simple, yet when I try to follow Nathalie’s example, my patterns don’t look nearly as elaborate. While her creations are coiling works of art, mine are a rough collection of blobs. There’s an art to this that I just can’t perfect. ‘‘The soap has to stay in the mould for 24 hours, then it needs to sit and dry for a few more weeks,’’ Nathalie explains. ‘‘Many soaps you get elsewhere are too young – they need time to dry properly.’’ The final step is to punch a small hole and loop a delicate rope through each one so the soap won’t fall on the shower floor. Genius! The soaps I’ve watched Nathalie create are a small batch of the thousands she will make this year for SALT of Palmar on Mauritius’ east coast. Any guest staying at the resort can partake in the same experience. After years of planning and preparation, SALT opened to high acclaim last November. It has all the features that are expected of a luxury boutique hotel: seafront location, stunning pool, beautifully executed meals made from predominantly local produce, a tranquil spa which houses 1HERSA1 0034
Clockwise from main: The entrance at SALT of Palmar in Mauritius; the spa has a salttherapy room; jams; Trou d’Eau Douce cold-cut octopus; the rooftop is a fine cocktail spot.
the island’s first salt-therapy room. These attributes, however, are not what embody the brand’s core concept. SALT is about truly experiencing and appreciating the culture of the area. One of the first things I learn is that crafting soap from scratch is a little like creating handmade chocolate. Guests can also learn the handiwork of traditional Mauritian basket weaving with Reotee, the weaver responsible for the beach baskets found in each of the rooms. I
travel to her home with a guide and it’s here that I understand the significance of the huge pandanus leaves I noticed neatly laid out all over the driveway upon my arrival. Reotee weaves bags out of pandanus leaves and recycled plastic (SALT of Palmar guests are gifted with the recyclable plastic version). Hundreds of her bags in eyepopping colours are on display at her home, which doubles as her shopfront. Apart from involving the locals who help
shape the resort, SALT also offers its onsite team members (they don’t like to call them staff) an opportunity to share their skills with guests. There’s Sharonne, who teaches Brazilian ju-jitsu, Karishma is crochet master and Denis can show guests how to cultivate taro. The skills-swap arrangement isn’t just one-sided: talented guests, who are so inclined, are encouraged to share their expertise with staff and locals. The insider experiences are certainly highlights, as are the opportunities to learn a new skill alongside a new friend. Most SALT guests, however, are also keen to head out and explore without a chaperone – which is exactly what those involved in the brand desire. ‘‘We don’t want to shadow guests. We provide a SALT guidebook with content pulled together by locals, and a newspaper via the hotel app,’’ says Nitesh Pandey, senior vice-president of the SALT brand. ‘‘Our guests appreciate tips on where to go, as many of them want to go out on their own and find that restaurant, bar or beach.’’ It takes me some time to really accept and appreciate this, as it is not the usual modus operandi for resorts – that is, encouraging guests to explore the island, dine out and shop at local stores off site. ‘‘We want our guests to use the hotel as a base camp,’’ Pandey explains. ‘‘So you don’t want guests to hang out at the resort?’’ I query, still struggling with the concept. ‘‘No,’’ Pandey answers with gusto. ‘‘Each SALT resort will be about exploring
TRAVELLER, JULY 13, 2019
35
LUXURY ADVENTURES EDITION
ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME
discoveries
tasted – a tantalising concoction made from local pineapple baked in sugar and salt for a minimum of eight hours. General manger Raj says salt is woven into many facets of the resort, a nod to it being an essential ingredient in life. The entry foyer features a library nook with more than 200 books, a shop with no staff (the honesty system works here), iPads so guests can check themselves in, and a bakery cafe from where amazing aromas drift. Fresh bread is baked here daily from 6.30am to 10.30pm and coffee is on tap around the clock – perfect for night owls or the jet lagged. When my time in paradise is almost up I again take a few small steps to the beach, where I sink into a plush beanbag and use the slosh of the sea as my soundtrack to the ultimate relaxation.
IN SEARCH OF THE NORTHER N LIGHTS
23 DAYS | 11 GUIDED TOURS | 4 COUNTRIES
13 DAYS | 6 GUIDED TOURS | 2 COUNTRIES
TOKYO – VANCOUVER or vice versa
LONDON – BERGEN or vice versa
RUSSIA
Dutch Harbor
Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky
JAPAN
USA CANADA Alaska Hubbard Glacier Valdez Icy Strait Point Seward Sitka Kodiak Ketchikan Inside Passage
Sapporo (Otaru)
International Date Line
the destination and connecting with the local people. We are simply the facilitator.’’ And what a stunning facilitator it is. Bright tropical hues and thick black-andwhite stripes appear throughout the resort in a chunky block-style arrangement, designed by French artist Camille Walala to complement the landscape of Mauritius. The rooms, organised around a 25-metre pool in a riad-style building, feature floor-toceiling windows and the occasional splash of bright colours through modern furnishings. They are not large, nor do they have TVs or minibars. If you fancy a drink, grab one from the general bar fridge that operates on an honesty system and then skip off to enjoy it in your own patch of paradise. There are also two bars with tantalising cocktail selections, craft beers and wines sourced from boutique wineries across the world. A great place to while away an hour is the glass-fronted rooftop bar (another first for Mauritius). That dazzling water appears to glimmer more from up here, the powdery sand the island is renowned for could be mistaken for snow, and the cocktail selection elevates the already idyllic experience. On Fridays it gets even better: happy hour translates to free drinks and complimentary head and shoulder massages. Even the meals are designed to remind guests that there’s more to the island than resort life. The menu and food by culinary expert Dave is out of this world, with the menu including everything from raw food to fish straight from the sea. There is no buffet – the idea is that you sit down and take your time to enjoy your meal, then get going, get moving, get out of here. Although guests are encouraged to explore the island, the moments spent at the resort are designed to delight and this begins from the moment of arrival. I’m greeted with the loveliest beverage I’ve ever
NORTH PACIFIC PASSAGE
Tokyo
Norwegian Sea
Alta Tromsø Narvik Bodø
NORWAY
Vancouver
Pacific Ocean
North Sea
Bergen Stavanger
N
N ENGLAND London (Tilbury)
Cruise
Cruise
Overnight in Port
Overnight in Port
SET SAIL
SET SAIL
M AY, A U G 2 0 2 0 ; A P R 2 0 2 1
JAN – MAR 2020
F ro m
$11,595pp
F ro m
i n Ve r a n d a s t a t e ro o m F ro m
$1 4 , 2 9 5 p p
F ro m
i n P e n t h o u s e Ve r a n d a
SAVE UP TO
$7,995pp
i n Ve r a n d a s t a t e ro o m
$9, 9 9 5 p p
i n P e n t h o u s e Ve r a n d a
COMPANION FLY FREE
$1,200 PER COUPLE
TRIP NOTES ENJOY, I T ’S ALL INCLUDED
FLY You can fly to Mauritius directly from Perth with Air Mauritius. Or you can fly from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Adelaide via Perth code sharing with Virgin Australia. See airmauritius.com
STAY SALT of Palmar is on the east coast of Mauritius, about an hour’s drive from the airport, with 59 rooms. Rates from $US200 a double room a night including breakfast. See saltresorts.com
MORE traveller.com.au/mauritius tourism-mauritius.mu
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Private Veranda stateroom with king-size bed
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Shore excursion in every port
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Nordic spa facilities including sauna, hydrotherapy pool and Snow Grotto
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Onboard meals and beverages; including wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner
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Unlimited Wi-Fi
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All onboard tipping and gratuities
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Complimentary 24-hour room service
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All port charges and government taxes
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Choice of 8 dining options – no charge for specialty dining
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Culture Curriculum: lectures on or performances of music, art, cooking, dance and history
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Specialty coffee, tea and bottled water
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No credit card surcharges
NO KIDS | NO C ASINOS | VOTED WORLD’S BEST
138 747
VIKINGCRUISES.COM.AU
OR SEE YOUR VIKING TRAVEL AGENT Prices are per person, in Australian dollars, based on double occupancy, subject to availability and correct at time of printing. Includes all advertised discounts. Prices based on North Pacific Passage 28 April 2021 departure in a Veranda stateroom (V2) and Penthouse Veranda (PV3) and In Search of the Northern Lights 22 January 2020 departure in a Veranda stateroom (V2) and Penthouse Veranda (PV3). Companion Fly Free offer is subject to availability, available on new bookings only on selected departures, not combinable with any other offers and may be withdrawn at any time. Flights are in Economy class ex major cities in Australia on Viking’s choice of airline and both passengers must travel on the same flights. Valid on new bookings only on selected departures made between 11 July and 31 August 2019 unless sold out prior. For more details visit vikingcruises.com.au.
Tatyana Leonov was a guest of SALT Resorts. 1HERSA1 0035