前言 第一次認識詩慧及她的作品，是大約十年前她在牛房二樓《Zipper T Ox》與實驗．線 (Lines Lab) －畢焜（Clara Brito）合作的展覽，將 一件件剪裁獨特印有牛房 Logo 的衫架空在場中，以拉鏈的開合程度 不同，同一件衫可讓不同肥瘦的人穿着。經過年月的洗禮後，詩慧對 時裝有另一種更深層次的看法，那要由她在英國修讀時裝管理碩士說 起，當對專業認識更多時，除了眼界更開外，還知道在市場以外更多 的問題。時裝界為了製造人們的購買慾，每季甚至每月會推出新款時 裝來吸引顧客，以大量及低成本的生產方法來製造更多消費，當供過 於求，會造成大量的浪費。英國每年丟棄多達 100 萬噸的衫，香港堆 填區每日平均收到 305 公噸的紡織物，不知近年經濟起飛的澳門每日 又浪費多少資源？
在學成回來後，詩慧很想透過她所學及得知的經驗與 人分享，希望更多人知道時裝業背後的種種故事，更 希望服裝是以公平貿易及綠色環保理念出發，如不是 縱使再美的衣裳也不能打動她。除了以教學來分享經 驗外，幸運地與兩個 M 字頭的本地時裝新牌子合作， 可惜在合作過程中感到大家意念越走越遠，與最初 她期望的相背而馳。時裝企業是一條長遠的道路，生 產需要有可持續發展的遠景，一味和市場競爭來鬥款 甚至模仿，沒有品牌特色，短線的投機並不會帶來好 的前景，所以，詩慧把這次的展覽改成《乜乜都 ON SALE》引喻時裝潮流的風氣，而 Logo 以兩個 M 字 交疊成一叉號具有反思的用意。時下流行一種速食店 叫 Pop up shop 因應那時期流行什麼或速銷而開的 店舖，詩慧把二樓展區變成一間 Pop up shop，除了 真的有她設計的成衣樣板及初版展示外，還會有整個 製作流程呈現，令到來的觀眾體驗從設計到生產的過 程。而所展出的成衣樣板真的在展場出售，這批原本 被市場淘汰的衣服，因為這次展覽得以重生，買衣服 的錢會直接捐贈給樂施會，並且以「樂施有禮」的概 念來表述買了 2 件衣服可以幫到什麼，大家來看展覽 之餘，可以購物也等於做善事。 這次展覽，詩慧將她個人的經歴以視覺藝術表現出 來，有很多想法已經初步構思好，可是過程中不斷碰 到問題，但都不厭其煩的去一一解決。繁榮及科技令 我們很多事情變得方便及物質豐富，但同時社會價值 扭曲，地球資源被不斷消耗及濫用，被急速破壞，不 用等下一代，我們已經在受到環境污染的禍害。如果 人人都因物慾去消費及以方便為由解決問題，那麼我 們看不到美好的前景，世界不會因為一個人而改變， 然而減少破壞，大家都可以做到。我們在購物之前可 以想一想是否真的需要？地球更需要萬物可持續的生 活下去，各安其所。 施援程 策展人
Preface It was about ten years ago, through < Zipper T Ox >, a joint exhibition with Clara Brito from Lines Lab, that I first came to know Siwai and her work. She displayed clothes of unique cutting, featuring the Ox logo and hanging in the air, each with different zip openings fitting different sizes. With time, Siwai has developed a deeper understanding of fashion, part as a result of her Fashion Management master’s programme in UK, which not only broadened her vision, but also led her on a more non-marketing direction. To increase business and attract new customers, the fashion industry releases new styles every season or even every month, using bulk, low-cost production methods to foster consumerism. With supply surpassing demand, it leads to high waste, like in UK, where every year one million tons of garments are discarded. In Hong Kong, the landfills receive, per day, 305 tons of textiles. Who knows what the ‘textile waste index’ of Macao, a city with rapid economic development, might be? After completing her studies, Siwai wanted to share her knowledge and experience, hoping that more people would know about the ugly stories behind the fashion industry, and that clothing industry should be based on fair trade and green concepts, otherwise, even the most beautiful clothes won’t attract her. Apart from sharing her experience through teaching, she was fortunate enough to collaborate with two local new fashion brands, both with M initials. Regretfully, she realised that her concepts were rather different, and the collaboration was not fruitful. Siwai thinks that fashion enterprise involves a long path, and production needs a vision of sustainability. Short-term speculation only aimed at market competition and copycats with no real branding image will not bring any real prospects. Therefore, Siwai revised the title of this exhibition to < Pop Up Shop for Something >, alluding to the blind following of fashion trends, while designing a logo with two “M” interlocking to form a X, prompting viewers to reflect on this. Inspired by the concept of “pop up shop”, which sells popular items in a short period, or serves as a sales gimmick, Siwai has turned the 2nd floor room into a ‘pop up exhibition shop’ of ready-to-wear samples designed by herself, both on show and on sale, while showcasing the whole production process — for visitors to really see it, from design stage to finished product. In this exhibition, a batch of clothes which, in a market scenario would have been destroyed is given a whole new life, with the proceedings from sales to be donated to Oxfam. Besides, visitors who buy two pieces are invited to express how their purchase could help the world. In short, exhibition-goers can appreciate the exhibition, do a bit of shopping and also contribute to charity. Siwai presents in this exhibition a very personal path in visual art. She had many ideas at the start, and in their actualization problems kept creeping, but she doggedly overcame the challenges, one after another. Prosperity and technological advancement make things easier and may bring material abundance but can also distort social values, leading to misuse and overconsumption, damaging Earth’s resources. Right now the world is being severely harmed by environmental pollution. If everybody consumes too much, or merely seeks personal convenience, prospects will be dire. It may be true that one person can’t change the world, but minimising damage is something everyone can do. Try to think if you really need it before you buy something. The Earth needs all creatures to live in a sustainable, harmonious way. Cora Si Wun Cheng Curator
【藝術家簡介】 蔣詩慧在她少年時已開始研 究服裝，在倫敦主力深造可 持續發展服裝。曾任澳門理 工設計學院客席講師、電影 及本地時裝品牌藝術總監、 參與服裝展覽及比賽、擔任 服裝設計師、形象顧問、名 店店長、歌星及演員造型師 等，累積了廣泛及豐富的服 裝創意產業經驗。
【Artist Biography】 Siwai Cheong, studies clothing since teenage years, specializes in sustainable fashion and obtained her master degrees in London. She has been a guest lecturer in Macao Polytechnic Institute, as well as artistic director for fashion brands and movies; participated in various clothing exhibitions and competitions; worked as fashion designer, shop manager, image consultant for a luxury shopping mall, and stylist for Macao singers and artists, etc. She has accumulated and developed a deep knowledge in Creative and Fashion Industries.
預
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ity
=
economy
+
environment
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生產性價比 ＋
產
品
性
價
比
＝ 你的服裝性價比？
消費文化主義 ＋ 時裝產業
者 害 受 裝 ＝ 時
設計？
如
何
衡
量
一
名牌？
物料？
件
性價比？
明星款？
衣
服
的
價
值
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潮流？
工藝？
後感
Postscript
這是我的第一個個展，也是我回澳後經實踐可持續發展*服裝 （sustainable clothing）品牌的一個小總結，讓我更明白自己的理想與實際市場的差距。 一直都好想在我愛的地方提倡持續發展（sustainability）的重要性，雖然同主 流有些不同，但我深信這可使我喜愛的服裝變得更美好。整個展覽空間加入了 很多我對矛盾時裝產業的疑問，如：「乜乜都 on sale」為何設計師的心血要 減價？ 展覽中的海報回收做購物袋、不按比例的度身尺、真假鏡子、漆黑的 試衣間等等⋯⋯都想讓大家反思我們現今的消費模式。 我是個不善言詞表達的人，每次通過實際行動後才會有一組較為完整的文字來 解說本意，今次是回澳後最滿意的一次展示。在展覽期間認識了幾位志同道合 的新朋友仔，才知道我所提倡 sustainable clothing 的世界並不少，而且見 到你們個個抱着衣服帶著滿足的笑容回去，這都給予我更大的信心堅持下去。 感謝一直理解及支持我的朋友、家人及機構（牛房及樂施會）！希望以後 「Something」這個以可持續發展為核心並結合服飾的理念，再可以不同形 式及面貌同大家見面及交流。 * 可持續發展：減少污染、浪費，再用可回收的有限資源，讓人類及地球物種有更美好 的明天。 This is my first solo exhibition, serving also a summary of my practice and experience in setting up a sustainable clothing brand, which gave me a better grasp of the gap between my ideal and market realities. I’ve always wanted to promote the awareness of sustainability and highlight its importance in my cherished field. Although ‘sustainable clothing’ is arguably different from ‘mainstream fashion’, I believe it can bring the truth beauty to my favourite clothes. The whole exhibition space is filled with my queries about the contradictions of the fashion industry, like Exhibition title (in Chinese) is “Everything on sale”, reflecting my questioning why the design inputs should be discounted? Also, exhibits include shopping bags made from used posters, rulers that are not to scale, real and false mirrors, and a dressing room in total darkness, among others. All is meant to let visitors reflect on our rampant consumerism. I’m not good at expressing myself by words. Usually, only after actual implementation I can more readily describe my original intention in writing. After returning to Macao, this is my most satisfactory showcase, during which I got to know several same-minded new friends, thus realizing that the world of ‘sustainable clothing’ is not that small after all. Also, seeing each of you (visitors) leaving with the clothes and happy smiles has given me more confidence to carry on this path. Here I’d like to thank all my friends, family and organizations (Ox Warehouse and Oxfam) that have been understanding and supporting me. I hope that Something can see you and exchange with you, in different forms and looks, in the near future.
策展人 Curator： 施援程 Cora Si Wun Cheng 展覽協助 Exhibition Assistant： 廖國棟 Gordon Liao 錄像 Video： 楊冠瑩 Summer Ieong Kun Ieng 音樂 Music : 莫家恆 攝影 Photography : 施援程 Cora Si Wun Cheng 劉俊傑 Kitson Hisashi 楊冠瑩 Summer Ieong Kun Ieng 平面設計 Graphics Design： 施援程 Cora Si Wun Cheng 行政 Administration： 周寶玲 Pauline Chao 張楚誠 Oscar Cheong 劉嘉欣 Amber Lao 佈展 Exhibition Installation： 李金明 Ken Lei 馮鎮業 San Fong 黃 靜 Annie Wong 劉曉熒 Helre Lao 老 二 Old 2
請購買前想一想 什麼是你真正需要的？ Think twice before you buy or use anything Do you really need it?