SUMMER 2016
Celebrating
ISSUE 01 of 02
100
Sar tor ial Year s
The
CLASSICS
||
Highest
Handmade
Quality
The
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Chicago
Since
1916
The
MAKING
PEOPLE
A collection featuring timeless pieces
We reveal the step by step process of an
Meet the extraordinary people behind
which transcend trending fashions in the
Oxxford suit and the meaning of main-
our product and why they think Oxxford
ever-changing menswear market.
taining the highest handmade quality.
is the suit that will last a lifetime.
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O X X F O R D C E N T E N N I A L : A l w a y s B e F a i t h f u l To Q u a l i t y
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WE WANT TO THANK YOU Oxxford Clothes was founded in Chicago in 1916 by Jacob & Louis Weinberg, brothers dedicated to old-world craftsmanship in the fabrication of fine tailored apparel. We are the preeminent manufacturer of the highest handmade clothing produced in America; widely recognized as the company who outfits executives, politicians and celebrities. Classic styling has always kept Oxxford suits in pace with trending menswear fashions. The foundation of an Oxxford suit is rooted in impeccable construction created in Chicago’s West Loop. Each suit is individually cut by hand; plaids and stripes are matched at all seams, even those that aren’t exposed; all coat buttons are made of
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horn; buttonholes are hand-stitched. Collars and lapels are handpadded with 2,300 stitches or more to ensure shape and balance. Of the 165 steps involved in producing a suit jacket, 33 involve
pressing. After a suit is completed, final pressing by hand takes over an hour.
We are a company steeped in tradition and pride ourselves in
being an American treasure. With a reverent attention to detail,
Oxxford takes no shortcuts. Our workmanship elevates a craft into art by putting dozens of hours into each custom garment. From
cutting the pattern to each stitch that is used, we still employ the
same techniques tailors have used for generations. When there’s a better way to make a suit, we will change. Until then, we will
remain faithful to the quality that only a hand tailored, Oxxford suit can deliver.
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OX X F O R D C L OT H E S : C e l e b ra t i n g O u r C e n t e n n i a l
Th e IN TRO
“Being in the business for over 40 years taught me that Oxxford Clothes was the best back then and still is the best today. Our brand history, commitment to the highest handmade quality, and classic American style leaves a lasting impression. There’s something we bring out in gentlemen. Men wearing Oxxford radiate confidence. The fit is perfect, the fabrics luxurious, and the men wearing our suits are or strive to be successful. A lot has changed in the clothing business and how men dress, but in the end, most everyone is looking for the best. You can see and feel the quality in Oxxford Clothing, so there isn’t a reason to change.”
- BOB DENTON President of Oxxford Clothes
“I tend to correct people describing Oxxford’s clothing as the finest garment made in America. Oxxford Clothes is arguably the finest garment made in the world. Being made by hand is not just the old fashioned way of making a suit, sport coat or trouser; it’s the best way. I’ve tried on virtually every manufacturer’s garment in the marketplace. Nothing compares to the comfort and longevity that a handmade Oxxford garment can achieve.”
- CHris Brueckner Vice Presdient of Sales
“The employees of Oxxford Clothes are true artisans who carry decades of experience in their craft. The attention to detail and the faithfulness to quality in each garment provides the wearer many years of enjoyment. I believe this is the best value in men’s clothing. There is nothing like an Oxxford. You can see that when someone puts it on for the first time. We are a very unique operation with a wonderful history and I really enjoy being a part of that.”
- STEVE DAVIDSON Chief Financial Officer
SUMMER 2016: The Intro
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Th e CL A SSICS
The CLASSICS We were inspired to generate new imagery this season and decided to pay tribute to the 69 years spent at 1220 West Van Buren. With the charming grit of the factory as our backdrop, paired with 100 years of excellence in suiting, we present Oxxford’s Summer Release. Photog raphy - RYAN PLET T -
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OX X F O R D C L OT H E S : C e l e b ra t i n g O u r C e n t e n n i a l
Th e CL A SSICS
SUIT DOUBLE-BREASTED NAVY PINSTRIPE SHIRT WHITE PIQUE TIE RED & BLUE PAISLEY
- POWER SUIT When in business, a well-tailored pinstr ipe demands attention. Stay confident in this str uctured suit that deliver s traditional style . SUMMER 2016: The Classics
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Th e CL A SSICS
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OX X F O R D C L OT H E S : C e l e b ra t i n g O u r C e n t e n n i a l
SUIT FRENCH BLUE SUIT IN SUPER 160s WOOL SHIRT & TIE SEA ISLAND COTTON & SILK
- TRIED & TRUE A blue suit outshines any trend. Wear it to an impor tant meeting, a fr iend’s wedding, or out to dinner.You can never go wrong with this must-have staple . SUMMER 2016: The Classics
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Th e CL A SSICS
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OX X F O R D C L OT H E S : C e l e b ra t i n g O u r C e n t e n n i a l
Th e CL A SSICS
- MIX IT UP Exude sophistication and taste in a handcrafted spor t coat. Add character by combining patter ns that effor tlessly compliment one another.
SPORT COAT 100% WOOL MERLOT PLAID PANT PEARL GREY SOLID SHIRT BURGUNDY & PINK TATTERSALL TIE GOLD SILK
SUMMER 2016: The Classics
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Th e CL A SSICS
- POP OF COLOR Elevate your look with a vibrant jacket. Dress it up. Dress it down. Pair it with subdued hues and you’ll have multiple ways of incor porating it into your lifestyle . 10
OX X F O R D C L OT H E S : C e l e b ra t i n g O u r C e n t e n n i a l
Th e CL A SSICS
SPORT COAT BLUE WINDOWPANE S U MTIE M E ROLIVE 2 0 1 6 : WITH I S S U E BLUE 0 1 o f 0DOTS 2 11 SHIRT WHITE PIQUE
Th e CL A SSICS
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OX X F O R D C L OT H E S : C e l e b ra t i n g O u r C e n t e n n i a l
- NEUTRAL A solid suit allows you to easily mix patter ns without overwhelming your look. A checked shir t and a paisley tie provide a subtle focal point.
SUIT TWO-BUTTON TAN SHARKSKIN SHIRT BLUE & GOLD CHECK TIE BRONZE PAISLEY
SUMMER 2016: The Classics
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Th e CL A SSICS
- ONE OFF When kept simple, the casualness of a blazer can look extremely polished.
SPORT COAT NAVY BLUE
14 O X XWHITE F O R D PIQUE C L O T H ETIE S : C eGOLD l e b r a t i SILK ng Our Centennial SHIRT
Th e CL A SSICS
- ONE PIECE A windowpane patter n adds excitement to a g rey suit. Not enough? Coordinate a plum tie and mini check shir t to liven it up even more .
SUIT GREY WINDOWPANE WITH PEAK LAPEL SHIRT LAVENDAR TATTERSALL TIE PLUM KNIT
SUMMER 2016: The Classics
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Th e CL A SSICS
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OX X F O R D C L OT H E S : C e l e b ra t i n g O u r C e n t e n n i a l
- FORMAL Wear your own tuxedo on your wedding day. A piece of timeless elegance should be par t of every gentleman’s wardrobe .
SUIT TUXEDO WITH GROSGRAIN TRIM SHIRT WHITE PIQUE TIE BLACK SILK
SUMMER 2016: The Classics
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BLUE SUIT SHOWN ON PAGES 6 & 7 GREY SUIT SHOWN ON PAGES 12 & 13
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OX X F O R D C L OT H E S : C e l e b ra t i n g O u r C e n t e n n i a l
Th e CL A SSICS
Th e CL A SSICS
- WHITE DRESS SHIRT A white dress shir t is the go-to for every occassion. Its blank backdrop g ives you the freedom to mix in your most intr iguing gar ments or to remain perfectly classic in simple style . Employ it to your benefit.
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The MAKING It is our belief that, if a man is to seriously consider spending the sum necessary to wear an Oxxford garment, h e i s ent i t l e d t o m o r e t h a n m e r e va gar ies s uch as “excellence”. Our experience with men’s clothing tells us why we are the absolute best being made in America today. In order to benefit from that experience, you should know precisely why we feel that they are worth every penny of what they cost.
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OX X F O R D C L OT H E S : C e l e b ra t i n g O u r C e n t e n n i a l
Th e MA KIN G 1. THE INGREDIENTS OF
Oxxford Clothes are the finest procurable. The woolens are from the most famed mills in the world, most particularly Great Britain and Italy; tweeds, shetlands and cashmeres from Scotland; worsted and flannels from England; mohairs and silks from Italy. Patterns, wherever possible, are exclusive; they are not “open line” designs. The silk thread, the linings, silesias, pocketings, in fact all of the trimmings are the very best. The buttons are made from the tips of horn. All goods are thoroughly examined, sponged, steamed and processed before cutting. The garments are individually hand cut with shears for precise accuracy and matching. This operation requires the ultimate in skilled artisanship. Wider outlets are provided so that, when necessary, the clothes can be let out without losing balance. Each pattern is laid on the cloth straight - without bias - so the finished garment will keep its shape longer and conform to the wearer’s body contour. Stripes and plaids are matched with precise attention to detail. To accomplish this, approximately 1/4 yard more of material is used than in most other suits. Before an Oxxford garment is ready for shipment, it has undergone close scrutiny by competent craftsmen in order to ensure clothing that is preeminent in the field of fine gentlemen’s apparel.
cont inued on next p age . . . . SUMMER 2016: The Making
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2 . T H E O X X F O R D S AC K C O AT
is given far more prepatory than any other make. The coat “hits the iron” 33 times while in the process of manufacturing. This pressing is in addition to the final off pressing of the finished garment. The prepatory pressings are the cornerstone of Oxxford construction. The purpose of all this pressing is to mold into the garment the shape acquired in sewing. The Oxxford coat front, or canvas, is the finest procurable. The canvas is thoroughly cold water shrunk, hand cut, hand padded and hand sewn. This is to make certain that the coat will always retain its shape. This procedure in the handling of the canvas is exclusive with Oxxford clothes. The collar and lapels are hand padded with hundreds of fine stitches, to assure softness and proper roll that is sewn in the garment for life. The collar has approximately 700 stitches and each lapel has approximately 800. This amounts to a total of about 2,300 hand stitches used just in these operations. The edge tapes of pure linen are felled by hand on both sides, in order to achieve edges that are thin and smooth. The edges themselves are hand stitched; a refinement which still further assures that the edges will be smooth and flat. The armholes are drawn by hand with a reverse chain-link stitch for resiliency, which permits the armhole to “breathe”. This allows the armhole to give without stretching for freedom of arm movement. For smooth, thin contour, all seams are turned and cross-stitched by hand. The armhole seams are pressed open by hand all around in order to ensure comfort and movement. Double arm shields are provided as protection against prespiration. It is customary they are hand felled all the way around and not merely tacked.
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OX X F O R D C L OT H E S : C e l e b ra t i n g O u r C e n t e n n i a l
Th e MA KIN G
Buttonholes are handsewn for durabilty and impeccable appearance. Buttons are made from the finest horn and are also sewn on by hand with a strong shank. This permits the garment to be buttoned and yet keep freedom of movement at the closure. Another distinctive feature of Oxxford clothes is the matching body lining and sleeve lining. Both are individually hand cut for each particular garment to obtain a harmonious appearance. The pockets have linen stays to prevent sagging, and have complete bellows lining on the inside. The bellows permit the pocket (when containing something) to expand to the inside rather than bulge on the outside. This feautre is one of the many costly operations that contribute to the considerable refinements found in an Oxxford garment. Other features are the many extra coat pockets; the inside ticket pocket, the cash pocket inside the large right side pocket, and the two inside breast pockets. Another nicety is the silk loop on the inside of the left lapel to hold a boutonniere. As the final step in making an Oxxford garment, each and every coat is individually tried on to test for balance and appearance.
cont inued on next page ....
SUMMER 2016: The Making
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Th e MA KIN G 3. THE OXXFORD TROUSER
is made by hand in the manner of the finest tailoring. A distinctive feature is the patented one piece waistband pocket construction, making the trousers feel thinner and more comfortable. This always allows the trousers to retain the inside smoothness. The one piece waistband construction also prevents ripping after cleaning. The buttonholes are hand made on the trousers. The fly lining is pleated down to prevent curling at the crotch. The top of the closure is made with an imported hook and eye, to keep it tightly closed. And the eye is inserted into two tiny hand button holes for appearance sake and for strength. The hand made buttonholes are arguably the smallest hand-buttonholes in the industry. The belt loops are handturned; if the waist size is under 36, there are eight loops, but two more are added for size 36 and over. There is an outlet on the outseam as well as the inseam in order to permit the trousers to be let out to their fullest extent and still retain the proper balance. A highly unique feature, otherwise found only in the topmost quality custom tailored clothes, is the hand overcasting of the seams.
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OX X F O R D C L OT H E S : C e l e b ra t i n g O u r C e n t e n n i a l
The PEOPLE Dedicated to the incredible people who have been and are currently behind our cherished brand. Some old, some new, but all value Oxxford Clothes just the same.
clothes. The European fabrics were bought for durability. Cloths in 90’s and 100’s prevailed over the fragile fabrics of today. We were driven to and fro by limo. We were dined in the Drake Hotel. Every lunch was in the chairman’s boardroom. On my last visit to the factory, I was presented with a birthday present; my pattern signed by every tailor in the factory.
“My first position at Neiman Marcus was a Buyer of Oxxford Clothes assisting in its selection for 35 years. The men’s area was a palace, lending itself to the best products from throughout the world. The downtown Neiman Marcus housed over 4,000 Oxxford units. In a given suit, there would be approximately 50 units per size. One is lucky to find two suits in their size in most men’s stores in America today. The men of Oxxford were steeped in love and passion for the product. Oxxford was a phenomenon who had features that no other suit contained. To visit their factory and see each suit sewn by hand was a treat. I witnessed features that were patented in Washington sewn into their
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I will be buried in a Navy Oxxford Suit.
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- DERRIL OSBORN For mer VP of Neiman Marcus, Par tner
Neiman Marcus and Oxxford clothes had a intense love affair. Oxxford was the highlight of my career and I will be buried in a Navy Oxxford Suit. In closing, Happy Birthday, Dear Oxxford. I will always be faithful to quality!”
- WAYNE MOLEK For mer Chief Eng ineer “Oxxford Clothing has been a very distinctive and meaningful part of most of my life. My Father, Leon Molek, went to work for the Wienberg’s after World War II as the Chief Engineer and continued working for Oxxford until 1990. I remember going to work with Dad on some Saturdays and being able to roam the floors of the Van Buren location. I would not be the person I am today if it was not for the Weinbergs, Mr. McDonald and Oxxford Clothes hiring and putting their trust in my Dad and I to maintain the building and its mechanical systems for those years. While I no longer have to wear suits for work, I still tell people that if you want a real suit you need to buy an Oxxford Suit. No other compares!” S U M M E R 2 0 1 6 : T h e Pe o p l e
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Th e P E OP L E
“to serve families We are pleased who currently “If I didn’t love Oxxford I wouldn’t be here. To me, it’s an amazing product that consists of high quality components. You won’t find a product out there that involves so much handwork. Our tailoring that goes into our product does not involve fusing by the machine; we still have the basted canvas inside. I’m not sure how many manufacturers can say that they do lapel pad stitching, stitching on collar, and pick stitching all by hand. Hand stitching helps with comfort and ease of wearing a suit. Nothing lasts forever, but we get alterations from 10-20 years ago and we recondition them to make them look brand new.”
represent three generations of
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- MARIA ACOSTA Operational Manager
Oxxford clients.
- DICK HITE Owner/CEO Nor ton Ditto, Par tner “Oxxford has been a part of Norton Ditto’s family of fine clothing for over 65 years. Through the years we have enjoyed a special relationship with their family of employees. We admire their dedication to producing one of the finest garments in the world. In 2016 where immediate satisfaction often replaces quality, Oxxford’s commitment to excellence is unique. It is not a surprise the company motto is quality first. Today in Houston, we are pleased to serve families who currently represent three generations of Oxxford clients. We look forward to continuing this relationship for many years to come.”
- Julian DELOS REYES Marketing & Merchandising Coordinator
- STANLEY MORAWAR Head Master Tailor “Oxxford is one of the best companies. The garments we make here all have a very unique design, construction and tailoring. Everything is made by hand and we continue to use traditional techniques. Pressing, basting, trimming; we make a strong garment that makes every customer happy.”
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OX X F O R D C L OT H E S : C e l e b ra t i n g O u r C e n t e n n i a l
“I have been working with the brand for over 3 years, with 2 of them in my current role as Marketing and Merchandising Coordinator. I also manage my own book of clients. I never would have imagined working for a company rich in history and relevance all while staying true to its past. The quality of individual pieces being created in the shop still amaze me because each garment is truly a piece of art. The part I love the most is that I am able to share our story with our partners and clients. Seeing someone slipping on an Oxxford jacket for the first time brings a smile to my face every time.”
- Jesus M. Flores Jr. Master Cutter “I really like doing what I do. It’s a very unique thing. There’s not a lot of people who are marking and cutting by hand anymore. It’s probably the best part of this job. In my experience, I handle all of it; so I can tell you if the product is good or not just by touching a suit.”
“caring about It’s really
what you do and “Oxxford is a good fit for me because I was brought up to always give myself to my work and taking pride in what I do. I can’t really say much about other suits because I’m fully invested in our construction. Our process makes sure that everything measures up to being as important as the other because every step matters. Anyone can brag and boast about quality, but what does that mean? It’s really caring about what you do and that’s something Oxxford Clothes focuses on.”
that’s something Oxxford Clothes
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- RICHARD MASCIANTONIO Patter n Maker
focuses on.
- Santina LaCarra Master Seamstress “Everything is good at Oxxford. The buttonhole, the finish it’s something different from other companies. We see the difference when we make it. The cut is different, our pockets are different in the trousers. We have a very unique construction. Our product lasts a long time because our materials are of highest quality.”
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O X X F O R D C E N T E N N I A L : A l w a y s B e F a i t h f u l To Q u a l i t y
Worl d-renow ne d O xxfo rd craftman shi p a nd excl usi ve i mp o r ted fab r ics a re prese nt ed i n our fin e s electio n . D e si g ned a nd t a i l ored fo r th e man w hose posi t i on a nd t a s te d eman d that he we a r only t he fi nes t ap p arel. He’ll e nj oy t he di st i nct i on o f han d rafted cust om de t a i l i ng, t he lu x u r y an d lo n g wea r t hat only t he bes t ex clu s ive i m por t ed fa br i cs ca n g ive. Always be fai th f u l to th e h i gh est handm ade quality!
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