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elcome to the second issue of Pacific Island Living – Solomon Islands edition. On behalf of the Solomon Islands Government we are pleased to introduce first time visitors to our beautiful nation. We have around 1000 islands to explore, many of which are untouched by modern civilisation. We encourage you to venture beyond Honiara and experience five star resorts, village stays, unmatched diving, fishing and snorkelling and our rich, diverse culture. We are a proud people, keen to welcome visitors and share our paradise. Please take the time to visit our Tourism Office, located near the Mendana Hotel for information on outer island tours, our World War 2 history or to get insider tips on the best cafés and restaurants, village tours, untouched beaches and adventure sports. The Solomon Islands is also open for business. We welcome foreign investment and can assist with new projects, especially in the agriculture, manufacturing and tourism sectors. Contact the Solomon Islands Investment Board on +677 22 856 while you’re in town. Thank you for choosing to visit the Solomon Islands, we trust you will enjoy your time here and look forward to welcoming you back again in the future. – Solomons Islands Visitors Bureau
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island escape
River Rafting a g n u L e h t on Driving towards town from Honiara’s Henderson airport, visitors soon pass the first bridge, leading over the Lunga River. The river, curling in endless turns towards the Pacific Ocean surely is a beautiful sight, but quickly leaving it behind, you definitely miss out on how much fun there is to be experienced in the Lunga. By Elio Stamm.
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touched some sharp rock, we had to deflate it and let the two sinking captains join other rafts. The rafting itself is not as much of an adventure as this episode may make it seem. There are some rapids, and when there has been a lot of rain, it might get a bit tricky, but most of the time the rafts are swiftly floating over flat water, giving passengers time to observe what is going on either side of the river. And this is where the rafting day trip really shines. You float down lush bush environments that are only interrupted by some grassy, treeless hills. As you come closer to Honiara, the shores of the river are full of people washing dishes and themselves, while kids are playing in the current. When you finally get out of the water exactly where the Kukum Highway crosses the Lunga, you will most likely see people washing their cars in the shallow waters around the bridge. You will take some sore muscles home from constantly trying to paddle back to the current, but also impressions of beautiful nature and the special lifestyle of Solomon Islands – especially if you bring your waterproof camera along. River Rafting on the Lunga River in Honiara, Solomon Islands: SBD700, 8am to around 4pm on Sunday (depending on the water level), for bookings call Anita Emmett of Ko Kama Rafting Adventures on +677 749 47 77 or email: aemmett04@gmail.com. •
PICTURES: Elio Stamm
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o truly experience the river, you have to get in to it. The best way to do that is to use a floating device. Having patience, a local guide and the willingness to deal with the unexpected, you could give it a go on your own. The easier way though is to contact Anita Emmett of Ko Kama Rafting Adventures. Having been living in Solomon Islands since 1996, this Australian started to offer river rafting daytrips to the Lunga River about a year ago. The best day to go is Sunday, but groups can make individual arrangements. Anita takes care of everything. For our group of seven she provided five fancy looking blue rafts, each included a cooler box full of sandwiches, juices and fruits and two wooden paddles. All we had to do was show up at 8am at the Honiara Golf Club, and bring along loads of sunscreen. In two Hilux pick-up trucks – anything less robust is not a good choice – we were driven over Mount Austen, the hill behind Honiara, down to the starting point. This journey alone was impressive, and not just because of the metredeep pot holes. On top of Mount Austen we made a stop and by walking 20 metres reached a lookout point with an incredible view of the Guadalcanal plain, the airport and the turns of the Lunga River. At the river, Anita’s team – herself and two local guides – quickly inflated the rafts and the water adventure started. We were two men in a raft, but after half an hour one of the boats
The rafting may be relatively easy, but the views and glimpses of Solomon Islander living is unforgettable.
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Cool down s l l a f r e t a w g n i n n u t s in Are you tired of the crust of salt on your skin when you leave the sea? Elio Stamm says go for the alternative water refreshment that Guadalcanal has to offer, the waterfalls.
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he hilly terrain combined with the wet climate has shaped some truly spectacular ways for water to make its way down to the Pacific Ocean. This means visitors to the following three waterfalls around Honiara get to enjoy the journey and the destination, including a cooling dip in the water at the base of the falls, which is much more refreshing than the 30 degree water in the sea. Mataniko: The Mataniko Falls are the favourite waterfall adventure for most expats living in Honiara, and not without reason. The trip, which takes approximately three to five hours, depending on how fast you choose to walk, is stunning from the start until the end. Start at Leilei village behind China town, and then make your way up a steep, treeless hill. The effort is rewarded with a stunning view of Henderson airfield and the Guadalcanal plains. The trail continues over less challenging grassy hills until it finally descends down to the Mataniko river through a slippery jungle section. You enter the river just a few metres below the actual falls and can conquer them by climbing up the rocks over which the water cascades down. They are less slippery than they appear. If you are adventurous and have a flashlight, you also have the chance to enter caves in the area, before you float down the river all the way back to Leilei village. Tenaru: The Tenaru Falls are ideal for people for whom Mataniko Falls are too much of a physical challenge. Plan more than half a day for your trip, as entry to the trail is about a 40-minute drive from Honiara, behind the
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Tenaru village, past the airport. Walking in and out of the Tenaru Falls over the same trail takes about four hours. The path is flat and shady all the way, following the river and crossing it several times. While the trek to the falls is less adventurous than at the Mataniko, you still wander through beautiful jungle environments, and the 63-metre high falls themselves are definitely way higher and more spectacular. There is a huge pool below for you to take a swim and feel the energy of the water rushing down the falls. Kakabona: The least known of the three waterfalls lies behind Kakabona village, on the western side of Honiara. The falls are called Kahove or Trenches Creek Falls, but a lot of people refer to them as the Kakabona Falls. They have less water than the Tenaru Falls and if it has not been raining they may actually dry up. Walking up to the falls is a stunning experience nevertheless. You make your way up the stream, caught in between impressive cliffs. The sun will reach the bottom of the valley only occasionally, making you feel as though you’re in a theatre spotlight. You will have to wade through the water of the stream and climb over rocks, making the two hours in and two hours out more challenging than the Tenaru Falls. Always go with a guide. Guides can be arranged by just showing up at the starting point of the treks or at the Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau at Mendana Avenue +677 224 42 or www.visitsolomons.com.sb Car hire is available in Honiara. •
These stunning waterfalls are all within reach of Honiara. Grab a guide and off you go.
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Experience a r a i n o H d n u o r a 2 WW Honiara’s history is not just for the war-buffs, there is something to capture everyone’s interest. We present you three of our all-time favourites. By Elio Stamm.
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ore than 70 years have passed, but the history of the brutal World War 2 campaign can still be experienced around Honiara in many different ways. The wrecks: The sea in front of Honiara – the famous Iron Bottom Sound – is a graveyard for nearly 50 ships sunk during wartime. At Bonegi beach, just a 15-minute drive west of Honiara, divers can comfortably explore two of these wrecks directly off the beach. The wrecks, both Japanese transport vessels, are overgrown with corals, offering a wide variety of aquatic animals a new home. The wreck at Bonegi I, the 172-metre long Hirokawa Maru, starts at 3 metres and goes down to 56 metres. Five hundred metres further west, Bonegi II’s Kinugawa Maru breaks the surface, making it interesting for snorkelers too. The Bonegi site is suited for scuba beginners, and the Tulagi Dive Center uses it to teach its open water students basic diving skills. The trek: In October 1942, after the Americans had seized control of the area that is now Honiara, the Japanese attacked Henderson Airfield (currently Honiara’s international airport) from inland. To do so, 7000 men under the command of General Masao Maruyama marched a 24 kilometre long trail through the jungle, starting close to the Bonegi wrecks west of Honiara
before crossing the Mataniko and Lunga rivers. The Americans were surprised, but managed to beat the Japanese. On their retreat, a lot of the wounded Japanese soldiers died, while others dropped their gear. Walking the Maruyama trail literally means walking over bones, artillery shells and helmets. Only the people of Mbrana village up Mount Austen, who own most of the land, can arrange safe treks. Finishing the full trail takes five to six days, but walking only parts of it is possible too. Treks can be arranged by calling Chief William Besi on +677 746 94 22 or visiting him at Mbrana village up Mount Austen in the hills behind Honiara. The museum: The average war tour around Honiara, includes a visit to the impressive Vilu war museum west of Honiara, however be prepared to visit the other, lesser known museum in Honiara, the Ranadi War Museum, based in Juergen Markwarth’s garage. Markwarth, an Australian with German origin, is a former Solomon Airline pilot and a real WW2 fanatic. The museum is only one room at the moment, filled with small gear, from swords of Japanese officers to machine guns, with most of it coming from the Maruyama trail (see above). To visit the Ranadi War Museum, call Juergen Markwarth on +677 772 42 48. •
From retracing the steps of the Japanese to visiting museums, Honiara offers a unique insight into the Pacific’s greatest battles.
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Frequently Asked Questions s d n a l s i e around th
Where are the Solomons?
An archipelago of 992 islands, we are located in the South Pacific, north-east of Australia between Papua New Guinea (PNG) and Vanuatu.
Entry requirements
Australian, New Zealand and most EU passport holders can enter for up to 30 days with a visa on arrival. Passports must be valid for six months. More information can be found on our website: www.visitsolomons.com.sb
People & Culture
Solomon Islanders are a blend of mainly Melanesian, Micronesian and Polynesian people with a population of around 550,000. Our cultural values stem back thousands of years and are very much linked to our land and surrounding seas. Most of the population still live a subsistence lifestyle where family and village community are the centre of social life.
Climate
Tropical. The drier and cooler months are April to October. It’s warmer and more humid from November to March. Average day time temperature around 28c.
Government
The Solomon Islands follows the Westminster democratic system and is a member of the Commonwealth of Nations. The head of state is the Governor General, representing the British Monarch. The Government is headed by an elected Prime Minister and cabinet. There is a 50-seat parliament with elected members. Honiara on Guadalcanal Island is the capital city and main port of entry and commercial centre. .
Money
There are foreign currency exchange services at Honiara International Airport, and at major banks and ATMs in and around Honiara and some of the larger provinces. Credit cards are widely accepted in Honiara but it’s best to take cash to the outer islands. The currency is the Solomon Islands dollar (SBD)
Transport
Taxis are widely available in Honiara. While some have meters, it is advisable to set the price prior to commencing your trip. Ask at your accommodation reception desk prior for an estimate on trip prices. Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau staff can also assist – contact us for more information. Buses generally operate along the main East-West corridor from King
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Frequently Asked Questions ds n a l s i e h t d n arou George School at the eastern end to Rove and White River to the west. Services also operate inland to up to Naha. Less frequent routes also extend further afield. Rental cars are also available. Solomon Airlines flies to 22 domestic ports from Honiara. There are regular shipping services to many parts of the Solomons from Honiara.
Business Hours
Most shops in town open from 0830 to 1700 Monday to Friday and until noon on Saturday.
Language
English is the official language of the Solomons, but Pijin is spoken by about half the population. In the early 1900s, copra plantations were established, the labourers employed on them had also worked in Queensland where they had used pidgin English. The local variety stabilised early and several religious missions adopted it for use.
Time
The local time is 11 hours ahead of GMT, one hour ahead of Australia’s East Coast Standard Time.
Post office
The Post Office is located near the Civic Centre in Aiwo district. Open 0900-1700 Monday to Friday.
Keeping in touch
Solomon Telekom Ltd is the main communications provider in the Solomons; 24hr telephone, fax and internet services are available in Honiara and most provincial centres. Mobile coverage is available in Honiara, Gizo and Auki – international roaming is limited so you may have to purchase a local SIM card. Internet cafes are available, so too are WiFi hotspots at major hotels and larger centres. There are two TV channels in Honiara, broadcasting BBC World Service and the Australia Network – from which local news is broadcast at 9pm and again the next morning.
Health
Main centres have hospitals or health clinics. The Solomons does experience malaria and precautions are recommended including insect repellent and sleeping under a mosquito net.
Electricity
Where power is available (in most major centres) the electricity is 240v AC, with the same power sockets as Australia and New Zealand. Blackouts are common however, so it is a good idea to allways have a torch with charged batteries.
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Things to do
Solomon Islands is a surfing hotspot for those in the know with only a few breaks having been discovered by outsiders. Be the first to surf new breaks in one of the world’s last frontiers. This is the new Bali with uncrowded surf perfection in a pristine natural and cultural environment. The best season for waves is November to April when the north Pacific awakens. New surfing locations are being explored along Guadalcanal’s Weather Coast. For an update please contact Surf Solomons Telephone: (+677) 22 086)
Is it OK to freely take photographs in villages?
It’s common courtesy to always ask permission to take photographs, especially of people.
Getting there
The national carrier Solomon Airlines, flies to Honiara four times a week from Brisbane; four times from Nadi, Fiji and weekly from Port Vila Vanuatu and Port Moresby PNG. Virgin Australia have twice weekly flights from Brisbane; Fiji Airways fly in weekly from Nadi and Port Vila and Air Niugini have three weekly flights from Port Moresby. •