Islandliving Solomon from the editor
AUTUMN 2016 | ISSUE 15
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ext issue, we will be celebrating four years of Pacific Island Living. We started this magazine for Pacific people – to find, review and recommend things to see and do, and ultimately, buy. We are proudly an aspirational magazine, we want our readers to sit back and indulge just as much as we want to tell the world how great the Pacific really is. From Georgie Gordon’s health and beauty columns, to Carolyn Ernst’s gardening tips, we hope you agree Pacific Island Living has something for everyone. In four years our market has grown from Vanuatu and Nauru Airlines to cover most of the Pacific. We’re particularly proud of our market share in Fiji and the Solomon Islands as well as our distribution in Australia through Qantas Club lounges. As I write this column I’m in Fiji, having just flown in from Vanuatu. Next month it will be Nauru then the Sollies. Pacific Island Living truly is a Pacific magazine and we’re so pleased you have enjoyed it and helped its growth over the last four years. Please do keep in touch via our website, Facebook page, Instagram or Twitter. Happy reading. Tiffany Carroll
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and Instagram at instagram.com/pacisliving or read this and all our magazines online at www.pacific-island-living. com Cover images - Fiji Island Living courtesy Adrenalin Fiji; Solomon Island Living, by David Kirkland; Nauru Airlines Cover courtesy Nautilus Resort, Kosrae; Vanuatu cover courtesy Pavol Stranák.
Getting Around THE ISLANDS
Copyright: All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu Tourism Office or Pacific Island Living.
Diving
IN & AROUND MUNDA
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Welcomem… elcome to the Solomon Islands – the hapi isles. With so much to see and do, the Solomons offers something for everyone. From trekking through jungles to experience village life (see Rod Eime’s story on page 44) to diving around Munda and the Western Province, (page Solomons I2-4), the Solomon’s attractions are as diverse as its people and islands.
We think the Solomons has the best diving in the Pacific, a unique and culturally diverse culture and certainly has the paths less travelled. So what are you waiting for? Get out and explore these magical islands and please do keep in touch with us by posting your holiday pictures on our facebook page. Search for Pacific Island Living and you’ll join over 65,000 other followers.
Happy travels
PICTURES: Joanna O’Shea.
a k l e W
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Diving decisions
Magic in Munda f e e r r o recks W
Derborah Dickson-Smith found that Munda, teeming with death in the form of dive wrecks, is actually teeming with life.
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t’s juxtaposition. The Solomon Islands is a tropical paradise surrounded by coral reefs that are absolutely teeming with life. And then there’s death. The legacy of WWII is present above and below water, perhaps no more so than in Munda, in the Solomon Islands’ Western Provinces. I wouldn’t call myself a wreck diver. I don’t get excited about diving to great depths to look at rusting hulks. I get excited about marine life. About the amazing colours found on coral reefs. Munda has wrecks and reefs. And even the wrecks, a legacy of death, are teeming with life. This is why I came to the Solomon Islands. For it’s incredible marine biodiversity. I’ve dived here before and had a small taste of its busy coral reefs, which is why I’m back for more. The Solomon Islands sit on the eastern edge of the so-called Coral Triangle, the global centre of marine biodiversity. This epicentre of marine life spans an area
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PICTURES: Kathy Shortland-Jones.
over 6 million square kilometres, taking in Indonesia, Malaysia, The Philippines, Timor and Papua New Guinea. 76 per cent of the world’s coral species live here, along with six of the world’s seven turtle species and over 2,228 species of fish. On my first plunge into Rendova Lagoon it seems like they’re all here right now in Munda. I don’t know where to look first. The reef wall at Shark Point, our first dive, is covered in corals of all shapes, sizes and colours. Brightly coloured soft corals, whips and sea fans make way for hard branching corals and moon-shaped brain corals. Flitting among them are thousands of colourful little reef fish; butterfly fish, damsels, angels, anthias and surgeons, waving anemones with their resident anemone fish on guard. Out in the blue, big schools of snapper, bluefin trevally and barracuda. Wow. We surface after an hour’s exploration, to sun ourselves on a small and perfectly formed island in the middle of the lagoon. I can’t wait for our surface time to end so I can get back underwater. On our second dive, at nearby Munda Reef it is similar scene. This time a few reef sharks also join us along with some blue spotted rays, while huge schools of scissortails and fusiliers whoosh past between us. If it were up to me, I’d come back to these same two dive sites every day for the duration of our stay, but our dive guides have different ideas. First it’s a visit to Haipi Reef, about a 30-minute boat ride from Munda. The variety of corals here is only matched by the variety of reef fish, and as we swim down the reef’s sloping wall we find whip corals, large sea fans and colourful soft bushy corals. A few bumphead parrot fish join us for the dive and we share our safety stop huge schools of butterfly fish and damsels. When we surface we’re told our next two dives are wrecks, which doesn’t exactly thrill me, but then I’ve enjoyed every dive so far so I’m not expecting to be overly disappointed. It’s on these two dives that I change my mind about wrecks. The wrecks are both American fighter aircraft, the first a Bell P-39 Airacobra, one of the principal American fighter craft in service when the United States entered the war. It’s sitting on a white sandy bottom and it’s reasonably intact. But that’s not the first thing I notice about it. What I notice first is that I almost can’t see it for all the fish. It is surrounded by large schools of juvenile fish, and when I get close enough, I see it’s full of them as well, along with hundreds of colourful shrimp. The body of the plane, what I assume was once painted in U.S. Airforce drab grey, is now painted in colourful corals which create gorgeous patterns along the length of the plane. The second wreck is the Douglas SBD Dauntless, sitting on a sandy bottom in very shallow water. It’s covered with soft and hard corals and teeming with life. And this one has a rather interesting story. Our dive guide tells us that he once took a retired American pilot diving on it. He had asked to dive this particular site 4 | IslandlivingSolomons
The The museum museum in in Munda Munda is is named named after after its its curator’s curator’s first first find, find,
”While I’m not sure how much of the tale is true, it got me thinking about the stories, indeed the people, behind the many other wrecks in the Solomon Islands, as well as the wreckage still sitting in the jungle.” because he was the pilot flying it when it was shot down. What is even more remarkable is that a short time later the guide was asked to take a Japanese man diving here too, who claimed to have shot down the plane during the war. According to our guide the pair met up back in Honiara and have remained in touch. While I’m not sure how much of the tale is true, it got me thinking about the stories, indeed the people, behind the many other wrecks in the Solomon Islands, as well as the wreckage still sitting in the jungle. Back on dry land we stumble upon another wreck, on our way to visit a nearby WWII Museum. It’s a Jeep, salvaged from the jungle by local character, Alfie Rex Lay, who has lovingly restored it to working order, using parts also salvaged from the jungle. At nearby Peter Joseph WWII Museum, curator, Barney Poulson, has been collecting memorabilia since 2002. The museum is named after his first find, dog tags belonging to one Corporal Peter Joseph. In fact there are piles of dog tags here, sitting among neatly ordered stacks of hand grenades, guns, bullets, Coke bottles and mess kits. I can’t help thinking about the stories behind them all. •
dog tags belonging to one Corporal Peter Joseph.
Fact File Dive information
Dive Munda is based within the grounds of Agnes Lodge, which is not a bad place to base yourself for an exploration of Munda (above and below water). The dive shop is open between 8am and 4pm and runs double dives, morning and afternoon. For more information on diving the Solomon Islands go to: diveplanit.com
Getting There Flights to Solomon Islands from Australia: www.flysolomons.com From Port Vila: www.airvanuatu.com From PNG: www.airniugini.com.pg From Fiji: www.fijiairways.com
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Frequently Asked Questionss d n a l s i e h t around Where are the Solomons?
An archipelago of 992 islands, we are located in the South Pacific, north-east of Australia between Papua New Guinea (PNG) and Vanuatu.
Entry requirements
Australian, New Zealand and most EU passport holders can enter for up to 30 days with a visa on arrival. Passports must be valid for six months. More information can be found on our website: www.visitsolomons.com.sb
People & Culture
Solomon Islanders are a blend of mainly Melanesian, Micronesian and Polynesian people with a population of around 550,000. Our cultural values stem back thousands of years and are very much linked to our land and surrounding seas. Most of the population still live a subsistence lifestyle where family and village community are the centre of social life.
Climate
Tropical. The drier and cooler months are April to October. It’s warmer and more humid from November to March. Average day time temperature around 28c.
PICTURE: Elio Stamm and Bronwyn Norris.
Government
The Solomon Islands follows the Westminster democratic system and is a member of the Commonwealth of Nations. The head of state is the Governor General, representing the British Monarch. The Government is headed by an elected Prime Minister and cabinet. There is a 50-seat parliament with elected members. Honiara on Guadalcanal Island is the capital city and main port of entry and commercial centre.
Money
There are foreign currency exchange services at Honiara International Airport, and at major banks and ATMs in and around Honiara and some of the larger provinces. Credit cards are widely accepted in Honiara but it’s best to take cash to the outer islands. The currency is the Solomon Islands dollar (SBD)
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Transport
Taxis are widely available in Honiara. While some have meters, it is advisable to set the price prior to commencing your trip. Ask at your accommodation reception desk prior for an estimate on trip prices. Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau staff can also assist – contact us for more information. Buses generally operate along the main East-West corridor from King George School at the eastern end to Rove and White River to the west. Services also operate inland to up to Naha. Less frequent routes also extend further afield. Rental cars are also available. Solomon Airlines flies to 22 domestic ports from Honiara. There are regular shipping services to many parts of the Solomons from Honiara.
Business Hours
Most shops in town open from 0830 to 1700 Monday to Friday and until noon on Saturday.
Language
English is the official language of the Solomons, but Pijin is spoken by about half the population. In the early 1900s, copra plantations were established, the labourers employed on them had also worked in Queensland where they had used pidgin English. The local variety stabilised early and several religious missions adopted it for use.
Time
The local time is 11 hours ahead of GMT, one hour ahead of Australia’s East Coast Standard Time.
Post office
The Post Office, located next to Telekom is open 0900-1700 Monday to Friday and Saturday mornings.
Keeping in touch
Solomon Telekom Ltd is the main communications provider in the Solomons; 24hr telephone, fax and internet services are available in Honiara and most provincial centres. Mobile
coverage is available in Honiara, Gizo and Auki – international roaming is limited so you may have to purchase a local SIM card. Internet cafes are available, so too are WiFi hotspots at major hotels and larger centres. There are two TV channels in Honiara, broadcasting BBC World Service and the Australia Network – from which local news is broadcast at 9pm and again the next morning.
Health
Main centres have hospitals or health clinics. The Solomons does experience malaria and precautions are recommended including insect repellent and sleeping under a mosquito net.
Electricity
Where power is available (in most major centres) the electricity is 240v AC, with the same power sockets as Australia and New Zealand. Blackouts are common however, so it is a good idea to always have a torch with charged batteries.
Is it OK to freely take photographs in villages?
It’s common courtesy to always ask permission to take photographs, especially of people.
New surfing locations are being explored along Guadalcanal’s Weather Coast. For an update please contact Surf Solomons Telephone: (+677) 22 086 or email: info@surfsolomons.com
Things to do
Getting there
Solomon Islands is a surfing hotspot for those in the know with only a few breaks having been discovered by outsiders. Be the first to surf new breaks in one of the world’s last frontiers. This is the new Bali with uncrowded surf perfection in a pristine natural and cultural environment. The best season for waves is November to April when the north Pacific awakens.
The national carrier Solomon Airlines, flies to Honiara four times a week from Brisbane; two times from Nadi, Fiji and weekly from Port Vila Vanuatu and Port Moresby PNG. Virgin Australia have twice weekly flights from Brisbane; Fiji Airways fly in weekly from Nadi and Port Vila and Air Niugini have three weekly flights from Port Moresby.
Eating Out In Honiara
Whether a visitor or a local in Honiara we have sourced the best places for breakfast, brunch or lunch, dinner or just for a coffee. Here are three of our picks.
The Ofis
Venture out of town and stop at this little haven whether on your way to the beach or returning or just wanting to escape, The Ofis is a great place to enjoy a bite to eat. Open for dinner (Wednesday to Sunday) this hidden cafe offers a true island dining experience. Located a little out of town at White River, The Ofis has a private seaside setting to allow diners to listen to the waves while enjoying local delights. Serving an all day breakfast on weekends, order the large big breakfast or poached eggs or an omelette before heading to the beach. Offering a selection of speciality dishes unitising
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The Coffee Bar
This funky hipster cafe is the newest edition to Honiara’s dining scene. Located at Ranadi in the ANZ building, walking into this cafe it’s as though you have stepped into a trendy cafe in any major city around the world. Air conditioned with an industrial theme, The Coffee Bar provides the perfect opportunity to escape the heat in relaxed retro surrounds. Offering excellent all day breakfast options including a bacon and egg muffin or delicious scrambled eggs there is something for everyone. Whether you are chasing a double expresso, latte or a short
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black, The Coffee Bar can cater for your desires serving Espresso De Manfredi Coffee the well trained staff that are able to make it to your tastes. Located en route to the airport this is an excellent cafe to stop on arrival or before departure and enjoy one of their signature burgers, delicious salads or a fresh wrap or a delicious coffee and cake to freshen after your arrival. Experience one of the gourmet cakes, slices and treats on display with a refreshing smoothie or iced coffee and enjoy a relaxing break from Honiara in the cafe “where time stops for coffee”. Offering catering and making unique cakes for special orders, this cafe can make your party a breeze. The Coffee Bar is open Monday to Friday 7am – 4pm and Saturday 7am – 2.30pm. They are closed on Sundays. Contact the café on 30300.
Lime Lounge
Escape the bustle of Point Cruz traffic and relax in this cool green oasis. One of the oldest established cafe’s in Honiara the Lime Lounge, underwent a change in management in 2015. The all day breakfast menu is extensive with options of crepes, eggs Benedict to fresh fruit salad. Bright decor and free wifi complement the variety of salads, burgers, sandwiches, sushi and specials. There are menu options for most dietary needs including gluten free. Relax in the cool atmosphere and enjoy a smoothy, a fresh coconut, or order a macchiato, long black or a espresso to get your coffee fix. Serving Merlo coffee, this cafe has been a long standing favourite amongst the local expat community. Utilising local ingredients the Lime Lounge creates soups and lunch specials daily including a delicious pumpkin soup. Entertaining? The Lime Lounge can cater for your event or party including producing special cakes tailored to your needs. A second venue is located at Ranadi called Lime Lite to offer quick lunch options on the other side of town. Open 7 days from 7am 4pm. Contact the cafe on 23064.
PICTURES: Fiona Marston and Craig Osment
the local ingredients you will find homemade wraps and taco with specials changing on the blackboard. Freshly made smoothies and tasty coffee it makes for a great stop on the weekends, The Ofis is also licensed so you can enjoy a glass of wine or a beer. The Ofis can be booked for private functions and secure parking can be arranged. Open Wednesday - Friday 5pm - 10pm Saturday- Sunday 8am 9pm, contact 20334.
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