Islandliving pacific
SUMMER 2018/19 | ISSUE 26
The
s w e N g n i ipp
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WE ARE SAILING
AU$5 (incl. GST)
ISSN 2200-9566
9 772200 956005
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FIJI | VANUATU | SAMOA | KIRIBATI SOLOMON ISLANDS | MARSHALL ISLANDS PLUS FOOD | FASHION BEAUTY | HEALTH | GARDENS
PICTURES: Main: Port Denarau Damea Dorsey, Editor: Jo Larsen
F R O M TH E E D ITOR
he Pacific has never been more in the news than of late. Whether it’s standing up for climate change at the Pacific Island Leaders Forum in Nauru, taking the worldwide lead on banning single use plastic bags and straws, China’s interest in the region or responding to hideous racism from the likes of Heather Du Plessis in New Zealand, it seems the Pacific is the talk du jour. I have my own opinion on China and Ms Du Plessis but the universal opinion on Pacific states is we stand up for ourselves and our culture is one to be admired and replicated. The Pacific is full of leading identities championing our causes and whilst we’re fundamentally a holiday and lifestyle magazine, we’re going to feature some of these leaders in our coming issues. In this issue, we feature former world champion boxer Joseph Parker. A Kiwi of Samoan heritage, Joe has chosen to give back to Pacific islanders through his Team Parker initiative. Joe recognised many Pacific island children don’t
have the opportunities their neighbours in Australia and New Zealand do so decided to do what he could to help with Team Parker – details are on our Beachcomber pages. Also in this issue we feature Vanuatu’s gorgeous Eratap Resort, Fiji’s number one rated Tokoriki Island Resort, dining and culture in Samoa, diving in Solomon Islands and news from Nauru. Our regular gardening, fashion, health and beauty stories are all there too and each of our articles is on our all new website at www.pacificislandliving.com To keep up to date on the best of the Pacific, subscribe to our newsletter online and follow us on Instagram @pacisliving Happy reading.
Tiffany Carroll
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Pacific Island Living No 26 | Summer 2018 Cover photo: Shutterstock EDITOR Tiffany Carroll Email: tcarroll@photogenicpr.com ART DIRECTOR Nicole Brown SUB EDITOR Elaine Wilson FASHION + STYLE EDITOR Olivia Waugh FOOD EDITOR Christiana Kaluscha GARDENING EDITOR Carolyn Ernst CONTRIBUTORS Georgie Gordon, Toby Preston, Craig Osment, Pat Ingram, Rebecca Murphy, Carolyn Ernst, Christiana Kaluscha, Lauren Jagger, Joanne Webber, Eva Westfield, David Kirkland, Roderick Eime, Rosie Kelly, Damea Dorsey, Julie Affleck, Tony Wilson, Danielle Norton, Poasa Baice, Penny Gamble, John Warmington. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Pat Ingram PUBLISHER: Craig Osment ADVERTISING INQUIRIES Rebecca Murphy: Regional Manager Fiji | Nauru | Samoa | Vanuatu | NZ | Solomon Islands Telephone: (64) 21 951 342 or (64) 825 7340 Email: sales@photogenicpr.com Pacific Island Living, is published quarterly by Photogenic Limited Fax (678) 23 402 | PO Box 322 Port Vila, Vanuatu Printed by APOL Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/pacificislandliving Twitter
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at
COPYRIGHT All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu Tourism Office, Samoa Airways or Pacific Island Living.
Pacific Island Living is the official inflight magazine of Nauru Airlines and Samoa Airways.
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This issue we get out and about on boats, from the Monaco Yacht Show to secluded beaches on little known islands, we float free. See page 20.
CONTENTS2018/19 Summer
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BEACHCOMBER
what tropical life is all about – water. On it, under it, in it, over it. There are many experiences on offer from under sail to luxuriating on small cruise ships for intimate and up-close encounters with remote beaches.
Fiji food takes a starring role on Australian television when the Coral Coast is featured on Channel TEN’s new food series Foodie Adventures with Ash Pollard.
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NET ASSETS Georgie Gordon surfs the net and comes up with a bunch of oceanic sites that are worth a visit. From fishing advice to the famous 20-years old Aquabumps.
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CULTURE SHOCK Our columnist Rosie Kelly ponders the attractions of a life without McDonald’s, how to catch butterflies to enhance your roast lamb and the joy of a slow life and two dozen snails.
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PICTURE: South Seas Cruises.
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THE SHIPPING NEWS The opening of our 21-page maritime section where we get aboard some of the region’s best boats to savour
DECOR – MARITIME MOMENTS Olivia Waugh gathers a few select pieces with nautical accents for summer decorating.
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FINDING THE LAP OF LUXURY Multi-award winner Eratap Beach Resort’s all-villa accommodation is spacious and private. We take a look at their latest offerings, the two bedroom beachfront villas.
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BARE BEAUTY Cool tropical beauty to take you effortlessly from beach to bar. Joanna Webber recommends day-to-night summer essentials.
IN A CLASS OF ITS OWN A slightly sceptical Tiffany Carroll arrives at Fiji’s Tokoriki Island resort with high expectations and isn’t disappointed. She quickly succumbs to its luxury and intimacy.
FASHION FLASH – BEACH BUYS Since it’s summertime Olivia Waugh recommends the best things lounging by the water.
BOOK LOOK Georgie Gordon opens up a couple of big picture books which are all about the seaside, one looks at beautiful homes by the water the other at sailing solo.
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DESTINATION GUIDE – YOUR PORTAL TO THE PACIFIC The Pacific is made up of some of the most spectacular islands in the world. We’re spoilt for choice when it comes to experiences in the Pacific – whether it’s five-star accommodation or a beach faré ... we have it.
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Above; left: a house by the sea – living the dream for some page 106. Right: A resort by the sea – everyone can live this dream, page 50.
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SINGAPORE FLING Stop, shop, stay – Singapore is no longer seen as just a stopover, and with Fiji Airways flying direct, this vibrant city is a destination in its own right.
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RESORT REPORT
110 ART SMART – FISH TALES
DINING GUIDE
116 PACIFIC PULSE – BATTLE STATIONS
CHRISTIANA COOKS – LOBSTER Having lived on boats and islands for many years Christiana Kaluscha has caught and eaten more rock lobsters than most. Here are a couple of her favourite recipes.
100 FITNESS – FIND YOUR INNER ZEN Lauren Jagger brings you her top tips on how you can minimise your stress when dealing with island ‘rush hour’. Believe it or not there really is a rush hour in the islands and traffic can come to a standstill.
104 HEALTHY LIVING – SPARRING PARTNERS Our intrepid reviewers Georgie Gordon and Penny Gamble reluctantly agree to road test some of the Pacific’s best spa treatments. Total indulgence in exotic locations, what’s not to like?
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Wherever there’s water you’ll find people clustered nearby and for the lucky few, inhabiting a dream home designed specifically for them. Toby Preston checks out a lavish book on the latter.
Four of our favourite Pacific resorts from overwater villas to saving endangered iguanas, there’s something for everyone, even the reptiles.
Our restaurant roundup. From a region renowned for its fresh produce its hard to get it wrong when it comes to dining out.
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106 ABODE – OPEN HOUSE
Toby Preston looks at fish out of water and on the wall and finds that piscine art is perfect for the Pacific
After noticing a spike in numbers, three passionate divers on Vanuatu’s Efaté island have declared war on the menacing crown of thorns starfish. By Tony Wilson.
118 SPLASH OUT ON A WATER FEATURE Carolyn Ernst knows what your garden needs – it’s all about sight, sound and smell. A water feature can provide all three and act as the centrepiece of your garden.
123 CROSSWORD While you’re relaxing, that’s no excuse for not keeping your neurons nubile and your brain busy.
127 THE PEOPLE BEHIND YOUR MAGAZINE The behind-the-scenes scene, who makes your magazine every issue, contributors and staff details.
128 PAR AVION – WELCOME ABOARD Toby Preston talks rubbish and rages against managerial speak and new age jargon.
LO OKS VERY ADULT PERFECT FOR KIDS
T R AV E L B R I L L I A N T LY F I J I M A R R I O T T R E S O RT M O M I B AY Savusavu Road, Momi Bay, Viti Levu, Fiji P +679 670 7000 | E momibay.reservations@marriott.com www.fijimarriott.com
COLENSO0487
Escape
to happiness. With crystal clear water, white sand beaches, lush rainforests and tropical islands, it’s easy to see why Fiji is home to the happiest people on Earth. Take a private island getaway and let happiness find you. Go to www.fiji.travel to find out more.
www.fiji.travel
B E A CH COMBE R Every issue we bring you the news, views, people, products and places from all around the Pacific.
FIJI THE FOODIE HAVEN Channel TEN Australia launched an exciting international food and travel show Foodie Adventures with Ash Pollard which premiered last September. This six-part series follows renowned foodie Ash Pollard as she travels to amazing locations in Italy, to offbeat adventures in Thailand, Fiji and Monaco. Ash explores the colours and flavours of each region, seeking out unique indigenous dishes while engaging with and learning from colourful local food identities. Then, Ash flies home to Melbourne where she invites a celebrity guest to dinner. She recreates the new recipe she learnt and serves it up to a different celebrity guest each episode. The Fiji episode was filmed on the Coral Coast and was supported by Tourism Fiji and Nanuku Auberge Resort, this episode followed Ash as she explored the stunning coastline of Fiji uncovering produce-rich areas such as the iconic Sigatoka Markets (aka ‘Fiji’s salad bowl’). Working with Nanuku’s own Executive Chef, Oliver Scarf, the pair crafted dishes together using local, sustainable and seasonally-sourced Fijian ingredients. “As clichéd as this may sound, arriving in Fiji was like coming home,” says Pollard. “The Fijian produce was always fresh, and
cooking there was such an aesthetic experience. Every morsel on the dish offered its own vibrant colour and unique flavour. After working with Nanuku’s Oliver Scarf, I learnt his greatest lesson is to keep things simple. I’m a great believer in this so I’ll continue the trend in my own cooking.” The Chief Executive Officer of Tourism Fiji, Mr. Matthew Stoeckel said, “This is a wonderful opportunity to showcase Fiji’s colourful, local produce and unique island cuisine to an Australian audience.” “We are excited about the culinary movement that is really starting to take shape in Fiji and an increasing focus on fresh, locally sourced produce featuring on restaurant’s menus. We take pride in teaching visitors about local flavours and delicacies, so they are able to share their island experience back home.” The episode also sees Ash enjoy several emblematic Nanuku activities including enjoying her stunning villa, jet-skiing, learning about Nanuku’s conservation efforts with high-profile Marine Scientist, Kelly-Dawn Bentley and watching mudcrab fishing and traditional ‘lovo’ cooking (an earth oven) with Nanuku’s Josua Cakautini.Watch the Fiji episode here: foodieadventures.com.au/episodes-3/
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B E A C H COMBE R AQUATIC BLACKJACK Aptly named the Jewel of the Pacific, Iririki Island Resort and Spa offers everything you could need on your luxury island holiday, located a 3-minute boat ride from the shores of Vanuatu’s capital Port Vila. Indulge with a rejuvenating massage at the island day spa, set amongst tropical gardens with sweeping views of the Pacific. Delicious fresh-caught seafood is on the menu at Azure restaurant overlooking the pristine harbour. Kick off your shoes and take a seat at the
world’s first ocean blackjack table, set in glistening shallow beach waters. The new Jewel casino which features four main gaming floor tables, two VIP private area tables and 20 state of the art slot machines in a sound proof private slot room really is something else. Apart from the blackjack table the casino offers all the conventional and popular games of blackjack, poker, baccarat, roulette and so forth,but also also features a double ended American Roulette table.
CURRENCY EXCHANGE AND SPTO HOOK UP The South Pacific Tourism Organisation and FEXCO, the region’s leading financial services company sat down and got their pens out recently to sign a memorandum of understanding which is designed to further grow tourism around the Pacific. Both parties then issued statements of support: “SPTO is excited to be working with FEXCO Pacific and leveraging our organisations’ resources, networks, membership and experiences to progress areas of common interest for the development and growth of tourism in the region, where currency exchange and cross-boundary payments are important for travellers and tourism businesses” SPTO CEO, Chris Cocker said. “FEXCO Pacific is keen to collaborate with SPTO and its members to serve and grow the tourism industry in the Pacific. We wish to add value to the great work being done by SPTO in the tourist community,” FEXCO said.
ajc-vanuatu.com
contact@ajc-vanuatu.com 1st FLOOR GOVANT BUILDING, 1276 KUMUL HIGHWAY, PORT VILA
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JOE JUMPS OUT OF THE RING TO HELP KIDS Team Parker, a social enterprise aimed at increasing access for youth in the Pacific Islands to sporting equipment is the initiative of former world champion boxer Joseph Parker. The ‘buy one, donate one’ campaign sees every item of official Team Parker merchandise purchased resulting in Joseph donating a piece of sporting equipment to a school, club or community group in the Pacific Islands. Team Parker’s first recipents were kids in Samoa, with plans to extend out to other Pacific nations this year. Joseph, a Kiwi born Samoan says of the initiative “When I see Pacific kids, I think of what my parents did for me and about how little they had growing up in Samoa. I want all kids to have the opportunities that I had. As people of the Pacific, we have amazing talent and skills. “I want to help make the benefits of sport more accessible and nurture the talent that our kids have, ” he said. Joseph has asked business advisory firm PwC to verify the donations made every six months. He has also partnered with Rebel Sports and the Pass It Forward initiative to help bring their vision to life. Pass It Forward is a ‘buy one, donate one’ initiative that donates balls across NZ, historically and now through Team Parker to the Pacific Islands. Pass It Forward has chosen Team Parker as their exclusive partner in the Pacific Islands and added to the donations with 1,000 rugby balls and netballs donated to Samoan schools already. “Rebel Sport, in conjunction with Silver Fern, created the Pass It Forward initiative nearly two years ago. With the support of the New Zealand public, we are proud to have donated over $245,000 in sports balls during this time.
“We are very excited to partner with Joseph.” Official Team Parker merchandise will be available for purchase online at www.TeamParker.org
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NET ASSETS:
The wet web
This issue Georgie Gordon concentrates mainly on things oceanic. AQUABUMPS It’s been almost 20 years since Australian photographer Eugene Tan started taking daily early morning photos of the surf at his home town Bondi and uploading them onto his site, Aquabumps. Since then what started as a hobby has morphed into a hugely successful business that includes a gallery selling his prints and 40,000 email subscribers who use Tan’s beautiful images as a daily form of escapism. Water is the central theme to his shots and although Bondi still makes a regular appearance, Tan travels the world taking breathtaking pictures (often aerial shots from a helicopter) of desirable destinations such as Positano, Mykonos, Tahiti and Fiji. aquabumps.com
THE CULTURE TRIP If you’re looking for experiences to add to your bucket list look no further than The Culture Trip. This site is designed to inspire people to explore the world’s culture and creativity. Their vision? ‘To bring the world to everyone and in doing so to bring us all closer together.’ Find your inspiration by typing in a destination or activity into their search engine and be led on a veritable journey around the globe. Alternatively, browse articles such as 15 Incredible Things to Do in New Zealand Before You’re 30 or Tokyo Izakaya Food and Drink You Need to Try. theculturetrip.com
SCUBA DIVER LIFE Whether you’re a committed scuba diver or have only just graduated from a snorkel, Scuba Diving Life is the goto site for underwater explorers. It covers everything from marine species, underwater photography, diving gear, destinations, wrecks and techniques. There is also a focus on conservation with articles exploring subjects such as our garbage being so prolific it has become a habitat for marine life and suggestions relevant to us all such as eco-friendly alternatives to plastic straws. scubadiverlife.com
SINGLE BARBED Who knew fishing could be funny? For fishing enthusiasts looking for tips on how to be better fisherman Single Barbed has you covered, with a healthy dose of humour thrown in for good measure. This funny blog by a dedicated fisherman covers every aspect of the sport you could hope to read about: Bass fishing, fly fishing, bait, destination fishing … there’s even a lengthy article on what sandwiches are best consumed when fishing. Amateur anglers and professionals alike can all learn something from this site, and hopefully have a giggle while doing so. singlebarbed.com
WIND TRAVELLER In 2010 Brittany and Scott set sail down the East Coast of America to the Bahamas and the Caribbean to seek a life less ordinary. When their children came along rather than moving the family to land, they traded their boat in for a bigger one and resumed a life at sea. The family of five (including twins) still live on a boat now docked at a marina from which they run a charter business. Windtraveller is their blog that documents their adventures past and present, and a fascinating look at a life lived on the water. windtraveler.net
GREEN LIVING IDEAS If you want to take some steps big or small to help this planet of ours Green Living Ideas is a great place to start. This comprehensive site not only provides information, tips and practices on how to live a greener and more sustainable life but is also a great way to stay up to date on the latest environmental issues. From advice on how to make your home a chemical free zone with natural cleaning solutions to energy efficiency tips and recipes for healthy living. greenlivingideas.com
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CU LT U R E S H OCK
. . . n o s n o Reflecti
Life On The Rock
Sydney Weekender’s Rosie Kelly, a former Vanuatu expat, ponders the attractions of a life without McDonald’s, how to catch butterflies to enhance your roast lamb and the joy of a slow life and two dozen snails.
I
t’s funny that people who live in Vanuatu refer to it as ‘living on the rock’ when in fact these 83 lush, diverse, tropical islands are anything but rocky! I suppose after living here for a certain amount of time though, it becomes obvious that they’re not referring to the geography, but rather the headspace that comes with pacific island living. In the sense that ‘life on a rock’ could be quite appealing, there comes a time when people who aren’t born and bred on the rock simply feel the need to experience life back in the western world. Trust me, it’s both – in an effort to regain a grip on reality – and also to simply remind ourselves how incredibly lucky we are to have the life that rock-living does offer and to appreciate it all over again. It honestly only takes a few days – or for some of us, a few hours to regain that sense of reality and gratitude.
The differences can be quite simple actually. Some of the basic luxuries the western world offers are the reasons we leave – and the reasons we can almost cry with happiness when we return. For me, don’t laugh, but the very first thing I do when I arrive back at Sydney international airport after being in Vanuatu for a long stint of time is head straight to McDonald’s for a Big Mac meal! I told you, it’s the simple things! While I don’t actually agree with the nutritional values of McDonald’s, when it’s suddenly no longer available to you, you find yourself craving that cheesy sauce and those salty fries! The nearest thing to McDonald’s in Vanuatu is something called Pizza Hot. That’s not a typo. But as I write this I am quite pleased to say, we don’t have fast food outlets in Vanuatu. Speaking of food, you may have been told that one of the greatest beauties of Vanuatu is the culture and the way locals
FO R RE NT 2-bedroom waterside apartme nts Air-conditioned and serviced Great views, located in the heart of Port Vila Port Vila, Vanuatu | T: (678) 25137 | E: apartments@waterfront-quays.com
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Escargot is just one of the house specials at L’Hosutalet, Vanuatu’s most famous and loved restaurant.
often interpret things quite literally. I fellow expat friend of mine sent me a wonderful text the other day that highlights this perfectly. He is the owner of a beautiful resort in Vanuatu and kindly asked his chef to prepare a butterfly lamb for the dinner menu. Can you guess what the reply was? ‘Ok boss, but where do I catch the butterflies?’. Can you imagine the surprised faces of the diners that evening when presented with a beautiful lamb dish, filled with butterflies, or ‘moths’ as the locals call them?
Tell ’em Rosie sent you.
I am also quite pleased to say that the cuisine of Vanuatu can present many benefits. As you’d know there’s a strong French influence, having once been a French/British colony. As such, wonderful restaurants and patisseries still boast that je ne sais quoi… buttery, garlicky flavour that no one on earth can resist. So, when my daughters and I opt for an evening out for dinner, their favourite choice is a restaurant called L’Houstalet, a proud establishment that has been going strong for over 40 years thanks to owner Clement. When we walk in the door the waitstaff (who proudly wear uniforms with a logo that
Tel: 23490 Email: waterfrontbargrill@live.com
is strangely identical to the Woolworths emblem … I simply don’t have the heart to tell them) order us our favourite dish without needing to ask, the garlic butter escargot. Im not just talking about a couple of random garden snails. My kids eat two dozen of these unique squishy things in one hit, each. And I have to put my foot down to stop them ordering more. So, when my friends ask my kids, what’s your favourite food? And they reply, ‘snails!’, I simply couldn’t be more proud. While they wouldn’t have a clue what McDonald’s is and they don’t yet see the humour in going to Pizza Hot, they are well and truly receiving a unique upbringing and experiencing a life (and a cuisine) that I sincerely doubt their friends in Australia are experiencing. So, when you disembark your flight to Vanuatu and you ask around for some good tips on where to dine, keep an open mind, leave your fast food fetishes and your western habits behind you and smile because you’ve landed in a paradise that will challenge your way of thinking and your taste buds in a way that will surely make you smile. Oh, and try the snails. Trust me! And tell Clement that Rosie sent you. Rosie x •
Situated on Yachting World Marina www.yachtingworld-vanuatu.com
YAC!.ITIN(.j \VORLD VANUATU
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BO O K L O O K:
Seaside reads
Sailing solo or a seaside setting for your home by Georgie Gordon. LIVING ON WATER by Phaidon Editors Living on Water is a showcase of contemporary architecture built in harmony with water – enviable houses on lakes, rivers and by the sea. Forget the ubiquitous beach shack and your average coastal Airbnb rental, every home in this sumptuous tome is a study in thoughtfully considered design. Each house has been built with its neighbouring body of water as a fundamental part of the building, whether it be a view, a reflection or actually built over water. The result is a stunning collection of aweinspiring homes from around the world that offer pure escapism and endless design and interior inspiration. Published by Phaidon. For more, see ‘Abode’ page 106.
SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD by Joshua Slocum and Geoffrey Wolff First published in 1900, Joshua Slocum’s memoir Sailing Alone Around the World outlines the treacherous journey the highly experienced navigator took in the late 1800’s aboard his sloop, Spray. From Massachusetts he crossed the Atlantic twice (to Gibraltar and back to South America), negotiated the Strait of Magellan, and crossed the Pacific. He also visited Australia and South Africa before crossing the Atlantic (for the third time) to return to his starting point. This illustrated edition is filled with art, photographs, maps, and period drawings, as well as excerpts from those who, inspired by Slocum, also circumnavigated the globe. Published by Murdoch Books.
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Our tropical paradise
is waiting for you!
Experience barefoot relaxation at our beautiful 63 FarĂŠ (bungalow), child free resort. Located on a private beachfront cove at Pango Peninsular in Port Vila, you will find welcoming smiles and your own space to unwind. We are famous for our beachside dining and outstanding cuisine, come and join us. Book today through your preferred wholesaler.
Phone 25844 | reservations@breakas.com | www.breakas.com
I S L AN D S TYLE
Each of the 36 villas is oversized and all fabulously appointed. The furnishings were hand picked by the owner and the
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Tokoriki
In a class of its own
A slightly sceptical Tiffany Carroll arrives at Fiji’s Tokoriki Island resort with high expectations and isn’t disappointed. She quickly succumbs to its luxury and intimacy.
attention to detail is obvious while the ‘lobby’ is casual and welcoming.
I
’m not a fan of Trip Advisor. I’ve been sucked in by one too many glowing reviews only to arrive at the number one rated restaurant in the area to find it’s empty because the locals know what we don’t – it’s rubbish. So it was with an expectation of being underwhelmed I went to stay at Fiji’s number one rated resort on TA – Tokoriki Island Resort. Four years in a row it has won TA reviewers’ accolades and I wanted to know why.
All about the details
“We just make sure our guests feel like they’re the only ones here. It’s all about the details – nothing is too much trouble and we don’t want them to have to ask for anything,” Tokoriki’s director of sales and marketing Patrice Belle tells me. The ‘details’ at Tokoriki incude poolside butler service where at 11am and 3pm guests receives a cold towel, sunscreen,
icypoles and mini cocktails (3pm only) – and can even get their sunnies polished too. Ten minutes after my arrival I’ve already watched Patrice get up from the table three times to chat with guests or organise something special. “Yesterday a couple got engaged by the pool – we didn’t know it was about to happen but arranged for their room to have a bottle of champagne and flowers by the time they got back there. That’s Tokoriki.” Indeed from my arrival Tokoriki felt different. The boat captain took his time to welcome everyone individually – you could see the look of anticipation on all the guests’ faces, some after long flights from the U.S. yet he managed to bring a certain calm to everyone. No one was getting on that island until he knew their names and where they were from. Once at the jetty the staff greeted all the new guests like old
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friends, that Fijian charm on overdrive as the day time resort staff performed the welcome song like a well tuned choir.
Your own private resort
Tokoriki is not a huge resort, it’s not even big by Fiji standards. Each of the 36 villas is oversized however and all fabulously appointed. The furnishings were hand picked by the owner and the attention to detail is obvious. Poolside at Tokoriki is the heart of the resort. The infinity pool is bordered by coconut trees and the stunning blue green hues of the Mamanucas as the backdrop. Teak and rattan furniture is complemented with gorgous cushions and stunning Fijian carvings. There is no real lobby as such, just casual sofas and chairs, a central bar and restaurant all under the one leaf roof. You’re encouraged to feel at home Fiji style after arriving on the island
which is about an hour’s ferry ride with South Sea Cruises from Port Denarau – or private speed boat and helicopter transfers are available from Denarau or Nadi airport. It’s all about style and romance here.The resort does not cater to groups and is adults only. But you don’t have to be a honeymooner, I’m assured, and they’re not overly big on weddings either. “We do a lot of elopments, but being such an intimate resort, we don’t cater for large weddings – we want to keep the ambience and romance.” All bures and villas are air-conditioned, with lush landscaped gardens and feature both indoor and outdoor showers. The spacious Beachfront Pool Villas boast a separate living area, a 70sqm deck with private infinity edge pool, cabana and double day bed. Tokoriki offers you the rare chance to completely unwind and disconnect from the real world and
PICTURES: Kate Ballis.
Poolside at Tokoriki is the heart of the resort. The infinity pool is bordered by coconut trees and the stunning blue/green hues of the
to make this easier, all of the bures and villas are without televisions, telephones and internet access. Tokoriki offers guests an ‘in villa experience’ which includes a couples’ massage, three course dinner and bottle of champange. Dessert is accompanied by the resort’s serenaders to ensure the ulitmate romantic evening or perfect proposal. The resort offers a couple of different dining options, including oceanfront à la carte, dining on the terrace and in the main restaurant. The food is simply delicious, testament to the fabulous kitchen team lead by Fijian chef Ashim Singh.
50 times a charm
It doesn’t take long to work out why Tokoriki has received the accolades it does. The service is second to none, the ambience calm and tranquil. It is the perfect escape and ultimate romantic resort destination. And Trip Advisor is not the only way to sing Tokoriki’s praises – a Kiwi couple in their 80s recently returned to Tokoriki for their 50th – yes 50th visit to the resort! See the gorgeous video on Tokoriki’s website www.tokoriki.com •
The essentials
You can book direct with Tokoriki via their website at www. tokoriki.com or call +679 672 5926 or +679 672 5927 F: +679 672 5928 E: reservations@tokoriki.com Skype: tokoriki.marketing Fiji Aiways flies to Nadi international airport from Australia, New Zealand, USA, Asia and the Pacific. Book online at www.fijiairways.com Mamanucas. It’s all about style and romance at Tokoriki.The resort does not cater to groups and is adults only.
T H E S HIPPING NE WS
PICTURES: SCC, CCC, Fiona Harper
This issue we get aboard some of the region’s best boats to savour what tropical life is all about – water. On it, under it, in it, over it. Our island nations are more water than land and the best way to get around to exploring all the spectacularly beautiful corners of the myriad islands is by ship. There are many experiences on offer from under sail to luxuriating on small cruise ships for intimate and up-close encounters with remote beaches, custom village life and fabulous scuba and snorkelling adventures.
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THE WORLD’S FIRST ISLAND BEACH CLUB Surrounded by Fiji’s famous crystal clear waters, Malamala Beach Club is the world’s first beach club located on its very own island, just 25 minutes from Port Denarau. Book a beach club day pass and enjoy white sand beaches, private cabanas, a resort style infinity edge pool, and views across the Mamanucas from Fiji’s best located island. Malamala Beach Club offers a delicious a-la-carte menu, choose from light bites, Pacific inspired dishes and shared platters. Relax with a selection of hand crafted cocktails and enjoy a club-like atmosphere with laid back tunes mixed all day long.
Call +679 675 0500
Visit Your Local Travel Agent
M A R ITIME IN D U LGE N CE
o c a n o M
Whatever Floats ... in the case of the annual Monaco Yacht Show it’s likely to be money and lots of it. This is the premier event in the world’s premier location for showing off or buying your floating toys. In a world where ‘mine’s bigger than yours’ matters, every metre of extra length both costs and counts towards your status when mooring at your favourite marina. And the Pacific gets its fair share of nautical show-offs, particularly at Fiji’s Denarau Marina says Toby Preston. Below: There may not be quite as many yachts moored at Denarau as there were in Monaco but it’s hard to beat a South Pacific sunset.
Your Boat ... Above right: The joint Denarau/New Zealand pavilion attracted crowds of admirers and maybe a few just lining up for a taste of the kava.
PICTURE: Port Denarau by Damea Dorsey.
F
or the 28th time last September, Monaco hosted the Monaco Yacht Show which featured an eyewatering display of some of the most luxurious vessels afloat. Once again in conjunction with the New Zealand pavilion Fiji’s Port Denarau Marina was there to fly the flag for the South Pacific maritime community supported by Tourism Fiji. Apart from offering the only kava tasting courtesy of a man in a grass skirt (exotic, even in this milieu) Port Denarau was talking up its ever expanding popularity among the owners of the world's super yachts. According to Nigel Skeggs, director of Port Denarau Marina, last year 65 boats greater than 80 foot LOA (along with a further 554 of lesser length) visited the glamorous port. These numbers demonstrate the amazing growth in both visitor numbers and revenue flowing into Fiji’s economy. The equivalent numbers in 2010 were 32 super yachts and 668 smaller boats but it’s the financial contribution that impresses most – the total contribution to the Fiji economy ballooned from FJ$33 million to FJ$42.6 million. Among the MYS 2018 collection of luxury yachts, 40 were brand-new designs that were unveiled by leading shipyards to showcase their work, as is the case every year. While the final decision to exhibit a yacht always remains with the owners, their agents and representatives work closely with the organisers of the show to allow it to offer the finest showcase of super yachts available. “The Monaco Yacht Show has a worldwide reputation for the exceptional quality of the collection of super yachts on display each year that average close to 50m overall. About sixty of the yachts exhibited are less than two years old,” explains Gaëlle
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Above: Denarau Marina from above looks like a pretty good competitor to Monaco’s Port Hercules (right); Below: One of Port Denarau Marina’s
Tallarida, General Manager of the Show, before stressing that “We work in co-ordination with participating yacht brokers and shipyards in the interest, first and foremost, of the individual visitor, whether owner or future owner and to help new clients discover the world of luxury offered only by the super yacht industry. The MYS has a duty to offer visitors the best possible experience, with the supreme quality of the yachts as one of the leading criteria.” A tailor-made program of visits to specific yachts was available for private super yacht clients. Offering exclusive services enabling new guests to make the most of the show as they took their first steps in the confidential world of luxury yachting. In addition to things afloat Monaco Yacht Show offers a few other upscale diversions for those that like to accessorise their super yachts with something equally lavish in the carpark. A visit to the ‘car deck’ introduced yacht owners to a selection of ‘dedicated tailor-made vehicles and hypercars or customised models. In limited editions or as unique prototypes’ some of which were available for test drives by potential buyers.•
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more impressive visitors – Google owner Sergey Brin’s 240 foot Dragonfly. Below right: Anyone for kava, Fiji introduces it very own beverage.
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CR UIS ING
Cast Away South Seas Cruise’s M.V. Fiji Princess is small enough to get up close to beaches snorkelling spots like the Sawa i Lau caves.
Seventy years after an intrepid New Zealander’s first commercial cruise set to sea with no paying passengers, the M.V. Fiji Princess now hosts up to 68 lucky tourists on regular trips through the stunning Yasawa Islands.
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he passengers who are welcomed on board Blue Lagoon Cruises’ M.V. Fiji Princess twice a week with a big friendly ‘Bula!’ are following in the footsteps of hundreds of thousands of happy travellers who have been guests of the cruise line for close to 70 years. The company was founded in 1950 by Captain Trevor Withers, a young New Zealand stockbroker with a passion for the sea who wanted to establish Fiji’s fishing industry with his friend Harold Gatty. After four years of effort but no results the pair went their separate ways, with Gatty going on to found Fiji Airways and Withers determined to start the country’s first tourism venture – a cruise through the idyllic Yasawa Islands. Luckily for the passionate New Zealander, he had formed
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good relationships with the local chiefs and people of the Yasawas and his proposal was met with enthusiasm and promises of co-operation. Withers named his new business after the original version of The Blue Lagoon movie which he worked on when it was filmed in the Yasawas in 1948. His first vessel was a 13m former war boat he named Turaga Levu and had converted into accommodation for six passengers.. a far cry from the comfortable 68 passenger berths offered by the company today.
Stuck in the lavatory
It was not an auspicious start. Turanga Levu (which means
‘Great Chief’, Withers’ local nickname) had zero bookings for her maiden cruise; instead Withers took along six local men he knew so as not to disappoint the Yasawans eagerly awaiting the boat’s arrival. They were given a royal welcome everywhere they visited, and despite a slow start – and some inauspicious moments, such as when the first paying customer, an American, got stuck to the newly painted toilet seat and had to be taken to a doctor – within a year Withers had already expanded his fleet. These days the cruise company is managed by South Seas Cruises Ltd and it operates just one vessel, the M.V. Fiji Princess, which offers three, four and seven-night itineraries through paradise with an all-Fijian crew. The all-inclusive cruise* gives guests an array of unique experiences and plenty of cultural immersion with the people of the Yasawas. You can choose to be as active as you please from the many activities on offer, from cooking lessons
and snorkelling excursions to village visits and island walks. Or you can simply sit back and relax and enjoy the area’s scenic beauty, which includes the famous settings seen in the movies Cast Away and The Blue Lagoon.
Tie up to a coconut palm
There are no more than four hours at sea each day, with the ship anchoring in a different part of the Yasawas overnight. Fiji Princess’ small size means she can get close enough to shore to tie off to a coconut palm, which she does at Blue Lagoon Cruises’ private beach on Nanuya Lailai Island for a traditional Lovo meal cooked underground on the beach and enjoyed under the stars during four and seven-night itineraries. For more information and to book your Blue Lagoon Cruise visit www.bluelagooncruises.com • *Diving and spa treatments incur an extra charge.
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Y E A R OF TH E R E E F
Ocean Action In this, the Year of the Reef, it seems Fiji is really taking its responsibility seriously when it comes to environmental action with everyone cleaning up their act. Laura Waters not only revels in the wonders of the reef near Volivoli on the north coast of Viti Levu, she finds activists encouraging guest clean-ups.
D
iving beneath the ocean’s surface reveals a whole new world of fantastical creatures and landscapes. It’s a place worth treasuring yet the world’s oceans are under more pressure now than ever before with overfishing, pollution and warming waters challenging it’s health. But with 2018 being the International Year of the Reef, one tourism operator in Fiji is doing their bit to help. Volivoli Resort sits on the mountainous and green north coast of Viti Levu near Rakiraki, a string of bungalows on a hilltop facing the ocean. Award winning accommodation, a friendly team and their divine sticky pork belly and chocolate brownies are reason enough to visit, yet one of it’s biggest draws is the world-class diving just a short boat ride away. Fiji is often referred to as the soft coral capital of the world and Rakiraki is a hotspot with the resort’s in-house dive operation, Ra Divers, running trips daily. Vatu-I-Ra Channel is regularly awash with nutrient-rich currents, feeding the mass of lilac and citrus-coloured soft corals and red sea fans that festoon its maze of outcrops and overhangs. Buzzing with fish, the reefs here make for a kaleidoscope of colour that is truly dazzling. Manager Nick Darling is passionate about preserving
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this environment and key to his mission is participation in Mangroves for Fiji, a nationwide project that seeks to replant mangroves with multiple benefits. Mangroves are highly effective at sequestering carbon, the increasing concentrations of which are resulting in warmer and more acidic waters that threaten all marine life. “Our ultimate goal is to offset our carbon footprint to become carbon neutral,” says Nick. “In order to achieve this we must replant roughly 15 acres of mangrove forest.” The dense and tangled roots of mangroves also help protect and stabilise the coastline against more frequent and intense storms, plus they offer a critical shelter and breeding ground for fish and other marine life. Participating in the program also raises awareness with both visitors and locals on the importance of conservation and the threat of climate change. Guests are invited to help with seed collection, potting propagules to store in the nursery and then replanting them after three months. “It’s a long term project,” says Nick. “We hope to see an improvement in the immediate marine life within 5-8 years. Improvements in the climate probably won’t happen in our lifetime however this may help future generations.” Minimising pollution is another goal for the resort which also runs regular beach clean ups where up to 100 locals and guests gather to collect any rubbish that might have floated in on the ocean’s currents. Combing the seabed and coastline may not sound particularly glamorous but Volivoli turns it into an event with fancy dress, a free barbeque and spot prizes, finally ending the day with a massive beach bonfire and party. “Our ocean is our future,” says Nick. “It plays a crucial part in the regulation of our climate. Protecting the environment in Fiji is all about sustainability and that starts with education.” Nick hopes that the actions of Volivoli Resort will go some way to help preserve the stunning reefs of Rakiraki for generations to come.•
Minimising pollution is another goal for the resort which also runs regular beach clean ups where up to 100 locals and guests gather to collect any rubbish that might have floated in on the ocean’s currents. Combing the seabed and coastline may not sound particularly glamorous but Volivoli turns it into an event with fancy dress, a free barbeque and spot prizes, finally ending the day with a massive beach bonfire and party.
CR UIS ING
All Aboard Step aboard and visit remote Fijian villages, be part of a traditional Fijian sevusevu ceremony. Explore limestone caves, waterfalls or hike to the top of mountains. Relax on white sandy beaches, swim, kayak and paddle board in turquoise waters and snorkel and dive in spectacular blue lagoons.
C
aptain Cook Cruises Fiji is an Australian family-owned small ship cruise company with forty-eight years of cruising experience. Captain Trevor Haworth and his wife Geraldine first started Captain Cook Cruises in 1970 at No. 6 Jetty Circular Quay, Sydney and built the business from a single vessel to the most recognised Sydney Harbour cruise ship line operating today. In 1996 Captain Cook Cruises expanded internationally and with a fleet of two vessels, began operating accommodated cruises around the Yasawa Islands and Northern Fiji along with dinner and day cruises in partnership with the Koroilavesau family. In 2011 Captain Cook Cruises sold their Australian cruise operations to SeaLink Travel Group, with the Haworth and Koroilavesau families keeping the Fiji arm of the business. Today Captain Cook Cruises Fiji employs 135 staff across their Fiji operations. They operate with a fleet of four vessels including small ship MV Reef Endeavour, sailing Catamaran Fiji One, sailing ship Ra Marama and Topsail Schooner, Spirit of the Pacific. The fleet caters for a variety of accommodated, day, dining and private charter cruises departing from Port Denarau. All accommodated cruises are aboard the 130-passenger, MV Reef Endeavour small cruise ship. Cruises include the three, four and seven-night Yasawa Island and Mamanuca cruises, a seven-night 4 Cultures Discovery Cruise, a sevennight Colonial Fiji Discovery Cruise and an eleven-night Lau Islands and Kadavu Discovery cruise. The five level MV Reef Endeavour offers all the facilities of a larger cruise ship including an air-conditioned dining room, lounge room, library, cocktail bar, swimming pool, jacuzzi, mini gym and sun deck. Onboard accommodation ranges from Tabua Suites, Family Ocean Staterooms – some with an interconnecting door, Ocean Staterooms and Porthole Cabins.
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Relax on white sandy beaches Cruises combine cultural, land and water activities for the ultimate Fijian experience, exploring parts of Fiji larger ships cannot reach. Visit remote Fijian villages, schools and churches and be part of a traditional Fijian sevusevu ceremony, with Meke and Lovo feast. Explore limestone caves, waterfalls or hike to the top of mountains. Relax on white sandy beaches, swim, kayak and paddle board in turquoise waters and snorkel and dive in spectacular blue lagoons. Two dives are offered daily by Viti Water Sports, a PADI 5 Star Dive Centre. Three, four and seven-night Yasawa Islands and Mamanuca cruises depart weekly, seven-night discovery cruises depart once a month and the eleven-night Lau and Kadavu discovery cruise departs twice a year. Captain Cook Cruises’ Tivua Island day cruise and Lazy Lunch cruise departs daily and visits the companies privately owned Tivua Island. Spend a day exploring the exclusive island with some snorkelling, diving, fishing and kayaking and enjoy a delicious tropical buffet lunch. The nightly Sunset Dinner cruise features a fresh lobster buffet, a spectacular sunset and cultural entertainment and fun with the crew.
Cleaning up Fiji
Captain Cook Cruises Fiji are advocates of corporate social responsibility and believe in giving back to the people of Fiji. In November 2017 they launched a new environmental and sustainability initiative, the Ocean Ambassador Program aimed at removing rubbish pollution in remote Fiji with a focus on plastic and looking after and sustaining the Fijian environment. The initiative cleans up waste from the remote beaches and villages visited on Captain Cook Cruises accommodated cruises, educates villagers, crew and passengers and collects valuable data about the types of
With 48 years’ of cruising experience, you know you’re in for the best of Fiji’s waters with Captain Cook Cruises.
waste found in the Fiji Islands. Since the program started, crew and passengers have collected on average 70-120kg of rubbish per week from the beaches they have visited. Captain Cook Cruises Fiji has also eliminated most single use plastic items like plastic drinking straws and plastic cups onboard small ship MV Reef Endeavour and on Tivua Island. Captain Cook Cruises Fiji is also a partner with Cure Kids Fiji, helping to overcome urgent child health challenges to achieve significant improvements for Fijian children, their families and communities throughout the country. Visit www.captaincookcruisesfiji.com •
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S E A CH AN G E
We Are Sailing Inveterate sailor Fiona Harper recalls her enduring love affair with the Pacific under sail, from the old Suva Yacht Club to secluded bays protected by unmarked reefs, from the Mamanucas to Marovo Lagoon in Solomon Islands, the magic never dims.
Main picture: The Pacific; many islands, one small boat endless possibilities. Inset: Writer, Fiona Harper at home among the rigging.
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Set your course and experience the Pacific in privacy if you’re lucky enough to be sailing.
D
espite 30-odd years since I first stepped aboard a yacht in the South Pacific, I can clearly recall how exotic Suva seemed back then. The sweet fragrance of frangipani filled the air. Palm trees whooshed overhead while the trade winds cooled the sweat on my skin. Ironclad shopfronts, pot-holed streets and brooding laneways overhung with a tangle of powerlines begged to be explored. Fiji-Indian lady’s colourful saris clashed pleasingly with floral dresses in the Mother Hubbard style favoured by Christian missionaries. In place of earrings ladies tucked freshlyplucked flowers behind their ears. Colourful, battered buses bounced along Queens Road outside the Royal Suva Yacht Club. White-shirted school boys, whose own youth would now be a distant memory, hung from glass-less windows enthusiastically shouting ‘Bula!’ (hello!) before hysterically giggling behind their hands. My fascination with Fiji and the wider South Pacific remains. Back in 1980’s Fiji our crew of four were delivering an 8m racing yacht, little more than an overgrown dinghy really, on the delivery voyage home after the Auckland to Suva Race. Waiting for an acceptable weather window for the 1,000nm run south, carefree days were spent swimming and snorkelling the coral reefs of the Mamanuca Islands. Fast track to 2018 and I’m on a blue water cruising yacht anchored in Ships Sound, a slip of an anchorage with swinging room for one yacht, encased by weathered limestone pinnacles, vegetation clinging to their vertical sides as doggedly as those young school boys hanging
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out of the bus. Fiji’s far-flung Lau Island Group is about as remote as you can get without crossing into international waters. The islets of Ships Sound form an anchorage within the Vanua Balavu archipelago within a lagoon protected by a fringing reef that buffers the South Pacific Ocean rollers. The ridiculously blue sea is glassed-out calm. Barely a ripple breaks the surface. There are few beaches in the Bay of Islands due to the craggy volcanic topography, but the one we visit most often is shaded by trees laden with deliciously sweet pawpaw.
Downwind through paradise
There is one yacht in an anchorage further north and a small coastal village an hour’s sail to the south. Otherwise we have the entire archipelago to ourselves. Four weeks later we’ve explored every inch of this idyllic waterway by kayak, SUP board, dinghy and by leg power, snorkelling through coral gardens and swimming ‘laps’ around the islands. We make one foray to explore a mushroom shaped outcrop, scrambling over sharp volcanic rock which shreds my reef booties into ribbons. Sailing the South Pacific on a yacht is an incredible privilege. This seagoing nomadic lifestyle offers extraordinary opportunities to explore little known places well away from tourist hot spots. The floating village of cruising yachties making their way across the South Pacific already know this. Caressed by the south easterly trade winds, a steady stream of ocean-crossing yachts call into Samoa, Fiji, Vanuatu and
Be free at Malolo! Malolo Island Resort is about a bure near the beach, surrounded by the world’s friendliest people with a living and authentic culture. Perfect for families and couples alike, you can fill your day with a myriad of activities or simply unwind and do nothing at all. Year round choose from F$200 resort credits, Kids Eat FREE with 5 night stays, or between November and March, stay 5 nights and receive 1 extra night FREE!
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the Solomon Islands on a downwind sail through paradise. Samoa’s undisputed attractions are many with their strong Polynesian traditions and locals who throw their arms open to travellers. Though, admittedly, the two main islands of Upolu and Savai’i offer plenty of challenges for visiting sailors with few safe anchorages. Where the coastline of these continental islands doesn’t simply drop away into unfathomable depths unsuitable for anchoring, a handful of passages in the fringing reef mark the entrance to a serene bay. Asau Bay on the north side of Savai’i is one such haven. Though sailors need nerves of steel to navigate an unmarked narrow passage through the reef. The reward is a village that sits on the shore of a white sand beach, a low-key resort, Va-i-moana Seaside Lodge, with traditional fales for guest accommodation, and a beachfront restaurant and bar just made for leisurely afternoons on ‘island time’.
And the winner is ...
The waters really are gin-coloured and tranquil in the Pacific’s myriad coves and bays known only to ‘the floating village of cruising yachties’.
Further westwards, Vanuatu is a popular cruising ground thanks to a string of 80-odd coconut palm-clad islands that run almost north south. The capital Port Vila sits on the shore of a pretty bay dotted with a couple of islands to break up the monotony of all that South Pacific Ocean blueness. But it’s not just sailors who fall in love with Vanuatu – scuba divers are equally enamoured. Famous wreck dives like Million Dollar Point and SS President Coolidge offer divers the rare chance to dive on intact WWII relics.
Fiji’s highest rated luxury resort. Tokoriki Island Resort is Fiji’s most awarded adults-only boutique island resort and the perfect destination for your next tropical escape. Enjoy our beautiful food, luxury spa, amazing diving & absolute beachfront accommodation. Visit tokoriki.com or call +679 672 5927
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The Solomon Islands too are favoured by scuba diving sailors, the most accessible wreck being Bonegi 1, a WWII wreck off the beach near Honiara. But the real treasures of ‘the Sollies’ are well beyond the shore of downtown Honiara. Like Marovo Lagoon for instance. Covering around 700 sq km, roughly the size of Singapore, Marovo Lagoon World Heritage area is the poster child for pristine coral reefs, gin-clear water and picture perfect atolls, many of which are uninhabited. If there is a more tranquil lagoon in the South Pacific to drop anchor, mix a gin and tonic and become totally immersed in nature as the tropical sun dips below the aquamarine horizon, this sailing writer has yet to find it. Sorry Fiji, despite my enduring love affair with your golden shores, lushly-gardened islands and underwater coral gardens, you’ve been out played by ‘the Sollies.’ • Drop anchor, mix a gin and tonic and become totally immersed in nature as the tropical sun dips below the aquamarine horizon.
Sleeps up to 8 guests
King x 2 Double x 1 Single x 2
Ensuite x 2 Bathroom x 1 Powder Room x 1
Yachting World at the Waterfront
I
f you’re lucky enough to find yourself sailing around the South Pacific, you’ll be warmly welcomed at Yachting World in Port Vila’s main harbour. Yachting World is in the most protected anchorage in Vanuatu, nestled deep in the harbour and hidden behind Iririki Island. They have a full service sea wall marina with plenty of swing moorings, a fuel wharf, laundry, internet café and WiFi access. They can assist with your yacht mail and air freight, trash disposal, organise activities and parties for yacht rallies, and offer friendly advice on cruising in Vanuatu. You’ll need to do a bit of homework before leaving for Vanuatu, and read up on the Vanuatu yacht clearance regulations, passages and marine weather, arrival in Port Vila and getting into the inner harbour to the sea wall marina,
fuel wharf and moorings. Once there, yachties will love the Waterfront Bar & Grill, located on the seawall where they can admire all of the fabulous yachts lined up together over a cold Tusker and their famous seafood chowder. If you’re seeking solid ground for a few days, the Waterfront Quays offers self-contained apartments available for rent next to the sea wall. And the best part? All of this is located in the heart of Port Vila, only steps away from plenty of shops, bars and restaurants, supermarket and the main fruit and vegetable market. Visit www.yachtingworld-vanuatu.com to find out more tips about yachting in Vanuatu. •
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FA S H I ON F LASH
Left: Slim Aarons photographic print, Sailing in Sardinia, 1964 A$3993, www.1stdibs.com
Jonathan Simkhai off the shoulder striped bikini, $135, and bikini bottoms $125, www.mytheresa.com
Beach Buys
Since it’s summertime Olivia Waugh recommends the best things for lounging by the water.
Solid and striped, the meghan stripe bikini, $299, www.farfetch.com
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Gucci Dive XL 45mm watch $990, www.mytheresa.com
Star print bandeau tankini set AU$19.95, au.shein.com
Oscar De La Renta gold plated earrings, $243.08, www.net-a-porter.com
Sunnylife Monteverde underwater camera, $24.95, www.sunnylife.com.au
Blem, The Traveller sailor blue towel $44.99, www.blem.com.au
Julie ribbed bikini top $95.00 Rochelle ribbed bikini bottom $95.00, www.onia.com Tommy Hilfiger @ topshop wrap triangle bikini top and tie back bikini pants, ÂŁ92, www.topshop.com
Elisabetta Franchi nautical palazzo pants $836, www.farfetch.com
Faithfull the Brand Robin and Chrissy striped bandeau bikini $221, www.net-a-porter.com
Gucci Sylvie web espadrille wedges, $590, www.mytheresa.com
Staud Moreau leather bucket bag, $375, www.mytheresa.com
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Slim Aarons Mara Lane (Estate Stamped Limited Edition print) 12x16 1954, A$2,530.69, www.1stdibs.com
Suboo Nautico jumpsuit, $290, www.farfetch.com
In The Swim Kaleos Brodie sunglasses $240, www.themodist.com
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EDIT58 extra large woven basket bag, ÂŁ65.00, www.selfridges.com
Shein Gingham caged swimsuit, $21.95, au.shein.com
Chanel 1994 P Ship Wheel Nautical Chain Necklace $1,968.32, www.1stdibs.com
Tophop green striped swimsuit, £29, www.topshop.com
Ms. Mermaid Como red carpet white onepiece @ Wolf & Badger, $263, www.wolfandbadger.com
Maison Michel Kiki straw boater hat, £680, www.matchesfashion.com
Bridget ribbed one piece swimsuit Nylon Spandex, $195.00, www. onia.com
Petar Petrov asymmetric striped slik satin midi dress $1591.67, www.net-a-porter.com
Karla Colletto Viviana one shoulder swimsuit $276, www.mytheresa.com
Jade Swim Bond one piece, $245.00, jadeswim.com
Moncler striped Leni sneakers, $642.66, www.cettire.com
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DEDCOR E COR
A pair of mid-century French sailings ships by Georges FouillĂŠ A$1,782.96, 1stdibs.com
Design House Stockholm | wKnot Cushion $190.00, surrounding.com.au
Maritime Moments Olivia Waugh gathers a few select pieces with nautical accents for summer decorating.
Rivi canvas cotton fabric, 150 x 300 cm, white-blue and blue-white AU$174.00 EA, finnishdesignshop.com
Ferm Living | Unfold Room Divider Dark Green $2,385.00, surrounding.com.au
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Artek Alvar Aalto Lounge Chair 43 $5,874.00, aalto.com
Seaworn Porthole Accent Mirror $196.99, wayfair.com Interiors to Inspire Paddles $39.95, https://shop-interiorsto-inspire.myshopify.com Jalo Phoenix extinguisher, $114, finnishdesignshop.com
RS-Barcelona Mon Oncle barbecue in blue by Mermelada Estudio A$570.55, 1stdibs.com/
Hicks Pendant, polished nickel $549.00 - $759.00 onekingslane.com
Kate Sleeper Sofa, White Crypton $2,595.00, onekingslane.com
The Vitra L’Oiseau ceramic from Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec nest.co.uk
Tom Dixon stripe rug round £1,000 nest.co.uk
Menu turning table AU$667.00, finnishdesignshop.com
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VA N UATU
Finding
The Lap The award winning Eratap Beach Resort has recently expanded to include two new two bedroom beachfront villas with private pools.
Multi-award winner Eratap Beach Resort’s all-villa accommodation is spacious and private. We took a look at their latest offerings, the new two bedroom beachfront villas.
T
ony Pittar scoured the world looking for the perfect location to build his dream resort. It needed to be pristine, to be surrounded by lush tropical gardens, ideally within reach of an uncrowded surf break and big enough to ensure discerning guests were offered complete privacy and luxury. In the end he settled on beach and lagoon-front land about 20 minutes outside of Port Vila in Vanuatu and built a new level of luxury in the archipelago, Eratap Beach Resort. Tony hails from Sydney, a keen surfer he wanted to build an elegant resort to cater to couples and families (Eratap
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welcomes children during school holiday periods only) and offer guests everything from doing absolutely nothing to surf safaris, spa treatments, kayaking, snorkeling, fishing and village visits. But he wanted to do it in complete style. Thankfully Vanuatu doesn’t do opulence, it wouldn’t suit the climate, the culture or the customers. Casual elegance it does do and Eratap Beach Resort does it very well. With only 14 villas the resort is ‘boutique’, every villa fronts the white sand beach or gorgeous lagoon and every one enjoys uninterrupted ocean views and comes with its own beachfront fare for lounging, dining or viewing the spectacular
of Luxury Set away from the rest of the resort, the villas are spacious and private. Perfect for families or friends traveling together.
sunsets. All six one-bedroom villas consist of two pavilions, one for the lounge room and the other for the bedroom which is air-conditioned and comes with an ensuite bathroom with bath, shower and an additional outdoor coral-walled shower courtyard. All are spacious at 70 square metres plus outdoor areas. In addition there are two ‘honeymoon’ villas, as well as two and three-bedroom accommodation. All are fully equipped and decorated with stylish modern Melanesian touches with timber and glass shutters opening directly on to beach and water views. For a totally private indulgence spend a little more and pretend you’re honeymooning. It may sound clichéd but the honeymoon villa really does ooze romance and seclusion, the
faré is equipped with a table and chairs for private candle-lit dinners, a cane daybed and a private inground pool as well as private beach access. The entire resort faces north west and enjoys views over the water to several small uninhabited islands which can be visited by boat with a picnic lunch supplied by Eratap’s fabulous kitchen. Situated directly on the main beach of the resort are two new stunning two bedroom deluxe villas with their own private pools just metres from the sea. These villas are large and offer two master bedroom wings and a separate loungeroom, two covered decks and a foyer. Each bedroom has an ensuite with bath and an indoor and outdoor shower. The separate lounge room has leather lounges, satellite TV, and beautiful views across the ocean. All three buildings are air conditioned. The design of these villas make them ideal for
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Above: White sand beaches and pristine reefs surround the villas at Eratap Beach Resort. Below: Dine on the sand or in the beach front
couples, families or friends travelling together. The airy reception area and restaurant at Eratap enjoy tranquil views over the beach and bay and is the perfect setting for some local favourites, including Vanuatu’s famed beef and Poulet fish. Day guests are welcome to dine at the resort from 1100 but need to book in advance and tables are limited for visitors. The menu ranges from basic lunch fare including salads and steaks to pastas and their speciality, seafood. Everything is fresh otherwise it’s not offered and as much as possible organic fruit and vegetables are used. Considering the facilities, which include a pool, pristine beaches and waterways, a perfectly preserved reef for snorkelling, kayaking, picnicking on deserted islands and a welcoming local village, the rates, which range from AU$580 upwards are extremely reasonable. Check the website for more at: www.eratap.com •
The essentials
• Eratap Beach Resort is located outside of Vanuatu’s capital, Port Vila. The resort has won several local and international awards including Best Luxury Resort several times. • Air Vanuatu flies to Port Vila from Sydney, Brisbane, Noumea, Auckland and Nadi. • Fiji Airways flies to Port Vila from Nadi and Suva. • Solomon Airlines from Honiara to Port Vila. • Eratap’s beachfront restaurant welcomes day guests from 1100 each day but bookings are essential. • During school holidays children are welcome but otherwise Eratap is adults-only. • Taxis from Port Vila to Eratap can be arranged through your hotel or by calling Eratap to assist.
PICTURES: Eratap Beach Resort.
restaurant. Below: One of the resort’s new two bedroom beachfront pool villas.
B E A UTY S POT
Bare Beauty Cool tropical beauty to take you effortlessly from beach to bar. Joanna Webber recommends day-to-night summer essentials.
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W
hen it comes to summer, less is more. This natural no-makeup look focuses on skincare rather than makeup to achieve a raw radiance that stays dewy no matter how high the temperature soars during the day. Then, as the sun goes down, transform the look from paredback and peachy to golden glam with just a few tweaks.
Peachy days
Skin It’s just as important to care for your skin before hitting the beach as it as after. Try Sun Bum Premium Hydrating After Sun Gel, $10, with aloe vera for a great all-over moisturiser that doesn’t leave a sticky residue, or Olay Regenerist Micro-sculpting UV Cream SP30, $48.99, for long-lasting protection. Avoid skincare products containing alcohol as they may be doing more harm than good, especially in the sun. Face Prepare skin with a hydrating face mask to instantly bring back moisture and radiance. We love SK-11 Facial Treatment Mask, $125 for six, or Mario Badescu Skin Care Rose Hips Mask, $29, with Vitamin C, lemongrass extract, and rose hips. Forget layers of foundation and base – this look is pared back and natural. Lighten dark circles under your eyes with a tinted eye cream like Dior Diorsnow Uv Shield BB Eye Sunscreen Crème SPF 20, $77, which comes in two shades. For a beautiful, fresh-faced glow, try Mecca Cosmetica Enlightened Lit From Within Illuminating Balm, $32. It complements every skin tone and applies easily for a smooth, luminous finish that lasts. Bite Beauty Multistick in Praline, $24, gives an effortless wash of peachy colour to eyes and cheeks. Formulated with organic ingredients, it feeds and hydrates your skin while providing weightless, high-performance coverage and a soft, long-lasting finish. Apply from the bullet to eyelids and blend well with your fingertips or a small eyeshadow brush. Smile and apply to the apples of the cheeks, using your fingertips to blend up and out towards your temples. Brow Fabulous eyebrows frame the face and add definition. With a light hand, glide a Revlon Colorstay Brow Crayon, $25.95, over your brows, starting at the fuller end and working towards the tip. The sheer wax-to-powder formula is buildable, so you can layer colour as you go. The aim is to have eyebrows
a shade or two darker than your hair. Using a clear mascara instead of black or brown will save you from any panda-eye scenarios at the pool, too. Lips During the day, protect and moisturise lips with Jack Black Intense Therapy Lip Balm, $7.50. This emollient balm with SPF 25 is enriched with shea butter, avocado oil and vitamin E. Hair Swept-back tresses accentuate polished brows and contoured cheekbones while giving you that ‘just off the beach’ vibe without any hat-hair woes. Spray hair with water until damp and apply John Frieda Luxurious Volume Thickening Mousse, $10, to the roots. Comb short hair back behind your ears and spray with hairspray. Sweep long locks into a chic bun or pony and spray to hold.
Glowing nights
Skin Spray skin lightly with Moroccanoil After Sun Milk, $28, for a cooling moisturiser with an addictive gardenia fragrance. Target specific areas with Clinique After Sun Rescue Balm, $25, to minimise any post-burn peeling on both your face and body. Face Avoid shimmery powders and opt for a natural radiance. Dab a little concealer around your eyes to cover any dark spots before applying RMS Living Luminizer, $55, on cheekbones and above the cupid’s bow. Enriched with coconut oil, this award-winning product delivers a subtle sheen and a luxe-looking glow. Eyes Complement your natural brow with a soft gold or pastel copper eyeshadow across your lid. Eyeshadow pencils like Charlotte Tilbury Colour Chameleon, $37, are easy to apply and have staying power. Keep mascara light but accentuating and apply liner thinly and close to the lash line. Lips For night, apply Bobbi Brown Downtown Plum Luxe Lip Colour, $37, with a lip brush for a precise glossy finish. Hair Take beach hair to the next level by adding volume, texture and body. Whether it’s a pony, braid or bun, pinch small sections of hair at the roots and pull forward slightly. Rub the sections of hair together with your fingertips and spray with Kevin.Murphy BEDROOM.HAIR, $24.95, to hold in place.•
Bag it! Must-haves Grab these summer essentials for a look that emphasises your natural beauty. • Honey Bronze Drops of Sun Holiday Glow Creator, $25 • Mecca Max Sunlit Skin Bronzing Powder, $22 • Chanel Soleil Tan de Chanel, $69 • Stila Stay All Day Waterproof Brow Colour, $30. All prices in AUD
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D E S T IN ATION G UIDE
Your
Portal to the Pacific From the Marshalls to the Mamanucas, all the stuff you need to know across the region.
Romance in Paradise Iririki Island Resort & Spa where romantic dreams are transformed into reality and special moments into unforgettable memories. A private island with spectacular tropical landscapes and breathtaking views of Port Vila Harbor and Mele Bay it is the perfect setting for your romantic celebration. Contact us today, so we can assist you in booking your romantic escape, marriage proposal, wedding ceremony, reception, honeymoon or vow renewal. For Bookings or Enquiries, please go to iririki.com
or call +61 (3) 9326 6579 (Australia) +678 35060 (Vanuatu)
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D E ST INAT IO N VAN UAT U Unity Airlines Have you ever stood on the crater’s edge of one of the world’s most active volcanoes? The adventure of a lifetime awaits you on Tanna island in the south of Vanuatu. This isn’t for the faint-hearted but it’s an experience you will rave about for the rest of your life. Unity Airlines offers different tour options depending on how much time you have to spare, including day- and overnight tours. We recommend the Volcano Twilight Tour: Take off in a multi-engine airplane and wonder at the panoramic views of the islands below. Hop aboard for a 4x4 adventure driving through the jungle, across the ash plain and right up to the crater’s edge to witness the explosive Mount Yasur as the ground rumbles beneath your feet. The finale to an unforgettable day is flying over the crater at twilight, when the crater explosions are like orange fireworks against the night sky. If you’re keen to make the experience last, you can spend the night ‘Island Style’ at a resort on Tanna and relax over a lobster dinner and relive the day’s adventures. After spending the night, fly back to Port Vila refreshed the next morning in awe of the incredible experience you’ve just had!
Beachfront Resort Santo Located just a stone’s throw from the hustle and bustle of Luganville, the Beachfront Resort offers absolute waterfront accommodation with great facilities for couples, families or groups, and will suit any price range. Rooms range from individual studio bungalows to larger apartments and includes free continental breakfast for all guests. The on-site restaurant, the Coolidge Bar & Grill, serves local delights, including Santo’s famous beef and fresh caught seafood, perfect with an ice-cold locally brewed beer. It’s even a popular hangout for locals! If you’re looking to kick back, you can lounge by the resort swimming pool, which overlooks the water and Aore Island. Or if you want to get your blood pumping, there are plenty of adventure activities around Santo to keep you and the family entertained and all available for booking through the Beachfront Resort, including snorkelling tours, quad biking, boat charters, treks, caves and blue holes. You can even scuba dive World War II relics at Million Dollar Point, or explore the world’s largest accessible
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shipwreck dive in the world – the 200-metre SS President Coolidge! For more information or to book, visit the Beachfront Resort website: http://www.thebeachfrontresort.com
D E ST INAT IO N VAN UAT U
Romantic things to see and do in Vanuatu If there’s one thing that Vanuatu does well, it’s provide a picture perfect backdrop for your honeymoon. Around every corner is a dreamy white sand beach leading to the crystal clear blue ocean or a lush tropical forest, complete with a flowing waterfall. For a heavenly escape after the frenzy of a wedding, try visiting one of Vanuatu’s 83 islands to unwind. Turn off your phone and enjoy some downtime without wifi and explore a diving resort where you will be so busy marvelling at the marine life that you’ll forget you wanted to instagram it. Vanuatu has so many romantic places where you can rest and bask in the glow of the sun and your new spouse. In Vanuatu you will create lasting memories. Once you’ve snorkeled around the diverse underwater ecosystem of the colourful coral reefs, kayaked around the bays and met the friendly people of Vanuatu, you’ll want to return again and again. The honeymoon may be over but the romance of the pacific will never leave you.
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MORE FLIGHTS, MORE OFTEN. PAPUA NEW GUINEA Torres
Port Moresby Honiara Santo
Gaua
VANUATU Port Vila
FIJI
Ambae
Nadi
Tanna
AUSTRALIA Brisbane
Motolava Sola
Banks
NEW CALEDONIA
Suva
Santo
VANUATU Maewo
Pentecost
Noumea Malekula
Sydney
Efate
Ambrym Paama Epi Tongoa Emae
Port Vila
Melbourne Erromango
Auckland
NEW ZEALAND
Aniwa Futuna
Tanna Aneityum
Visit www.airvanuatu.com to book your flight, car or accommodation, insurance or for more information. DRINKS
MEALS
Vanuatu – Port Vila Air Vanuatu House, Rue de Paris PO Box 148, Port Vila Tel: +678 20200 Fax: +678 23250 Email: reservation@airvanuatu.vu
QFF POINTS
ENTERTAINMENT
New Zealand – Auckland Tel: +64 9 373 3435 Email: airvanuatu@airvanuatu.co.nz New Caledonia – Noumea Tel: +687 28 66 77 Email: axxesstravel@lagoon.nc
Australia Toll Free: 1300 780 737 Email: sales@airvanuatu.com.au In other parts of the world Qantas are the general sales agents to Air Vanuatu.
30 KG
DUTY FREE
D E ST INAT IO N VAN UAT U Iririki An island resort close to the main township of Port Vila, Iririki offers honeymooners the chance to completely relax. Create timeless memories snorkeling in the glassy sapphire waters of Mele Bay that lap the edges of this island resort. If you’re a little more adventurous you can hire a jet ski or learn to scuba dive in the resort pool. When the sun sets, Iririki offers entertainment every night of the week and, from dancers to fire twirlers, there is something for everyone. With a range of award winning bars, restaurants and cafes on the island, as well as room service, you will be spoilt for choice. Take a cultural tour around greater Vanuatu and share a learning experience with your lover or take the stress out of deciding and join in one of the resort’s planned activities. Learn to speak a little of the local language, weave a basket, join in the Trivia Quiz or simply stay in your glorious room, cocooned from the world. You can choose from an overwater fare, a deluxe villa or even penthouse accomodation. Every room is beautiful and luxurious and will make you want to stay forever.
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Mele Cascades The Mele Cascades are a fabulous place to spend a hot afternoon. Cool, fresh water flows from the waterfall at the top, down the mountainside, sweeping over the rocks into deep pools. A guide will take you up the hillside where you can learn about the village and the abundance of native fruits and vegetables grown in the area. You’ll also get a bird’s eye view across all of Port Vila out to the Mele Bay. The Mele Village owns the land on which this tourist attraction sits and proceeds from the entry fee are funnelled back into supporting community members. You can swim in refreshing water holes or stand underneath a waterfall, letting it rain down upon you. Venture into the tiny cave at the top and slide down rocks carved into smooth waterslides by centuries of streaming water. Hold hands and jump together to land in the plunge pools beneath. For something truly magical, this natural miracle should not be missed.
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D E ST INAT IO N VAN UAT U Cafe du Village Cafe du Village is an oasis on the main street of Port Vila. You enter through a pretty pergola and make your way down the steps to the dining space to look out across the water at Iririki Island. There’s nothing more romantic than watching the sunset with your true love. As the sky softens and turns from bright blue to purple tinged with pinks and oranges, watch the fishermen packing up their boats from the terrace at Cafe du Village. Before you know it, night has set in and your drink needs a refill. Not only is the setting picturesque, the food is divine. A comprehensive international menu offers Vanuatu organic scotch fillet steak, seafood dishes from Spain (soup), Thailand (beef salad) and India (curry). Also open for breakfast and lunch, Cafe du Village is the perfect place to reflect on your honeymoon and plan your future. - Danielle Norton
Port Vila Airport, Vanuatu | T: (678)24475 / (678)28037 / (678) 7744475 | www.unity-airlines.com es
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Offering a stunning range of Vanuatu stamps and first day covers for collectors or as souvenirs available for purchase online
Featuring beautiful photographs and illustrations of Vanuatu
At Hideaway Island Resort’s marine sanctuary you will find the world’s first underwater post office. You can post Underwater Post postcards to family and friends as a unique souvenir of your Vanuatu holiday!
www.vanuatupost.vu
D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS
Solomon Islands Discovery Cruises Heralding a long-awaited return to dedicated Solomon Islands small ship cruise programs, newlyformed Solomon Islands Discovery Cruises (SIDC) has announced its plans to operate six adventure itineraries in 2018-2019. Operating ex-Honiara and timed to dovetail with Solomon Airlines’ Brisbane-Honiara services, SIDC has employed the 30-metre MV Taka to operate the six and seven-day cruises, each of which have been designed to highlight two of the South Pacific’s truly unspoiled and culturally-rich regions – the Florida and Russell Islands archipelagos. Passengers will have the opportunity to fully immerse themselves in both region’s distinctive cultures and environments. The cruise itineraries feature visits to remote villages along with plentiful opportunity to discover the region’s amazing coral pastures and abundant marine life with daily dive and snorkel options. Both areas are also rich in WWII history giving passengers insight into the infamous Guadalcanal campaign in 1942 via the many wrecked US and Japanese aircraft, warships and relics which literally litter the seabed. Congratulating SIDC on its initiative, Tourism Solomons CEO, Josefa ‘Jo’ Tuamoto said the very nature of the Solomon Islands archipelago of 992 islands lent itself to dedicated small ship adventure itineraries. “Having a dedicated niche adventure cruise program, operated by a local company with local experts and one that offers insight into our unique culture, history and environment plus the opportunity to experience our amazing underwater world is a huge build on our existing tourism product. “Add to this, the amazing benefits our local people will accrue from this environmentally-oriented program are immeasurable. “This product is long overdue and one that I see as being highly successful going forward.” Prices for seven-day/six-night cruises lead in at AU$2499* per person in quad share accommodation inclusive of all meals and all activities. A daily per person AU$30.00 ‘kastom’ fee applies. SCUBA diving gear is available to rent. *Conditions apply. For more information visit http://sidcruises.com.au
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ABOUT THE MV TAKA Serviced by a 12-strong crew, the 30-metre MV Taka features six upper deck cabins all with ensuite facilities and six lower deck cabins in twin and quad configuration with shared bathrooms. All cabins are fully air conditioned and come with reading lights, towels, bedding and charging stations.
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D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS
c i o r e h e h T
Wildcats of Tulagi Is this sunken aircraft the most significant archaeological find of recent times? By Roderick Eime
T
he sea is more like soup in this part of the bay near Gavutu. It’s warm and full of ingredients. The runoff from the surrounding islands keeps the water murky with sediment, like you’re diving in the dark shadow of something foreboding. But it’s also full of lots more very interesting things. In May 1942, the Japanese landed on nearby Tulagi after a tiny force of British colonial and Australian troops had evacuated just hours before. About 400 mainly naval (IJN) troops then set up a small command post and seaplane base as part of Operation Mo – the official Japanese military plan to invade and occupy territory around Australia and the South Pacific. Allied forces began their attacks against the occupying Japanese even as they were unloading, heralding the start of the vicious Guadalcanal campaign that would last until February 1943. Most of the wrecks near Gavutu, just over two kilometres to the east of Tulagi, are aircraft, the most prominent of
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these being six massive Japanese ‘Mavis’ 4-engine flying boats sunk at their moorings that August when the US Marines made their big comeback. In 2015 I returned to Tulagi to investigate the discovery of a USMC F4 Wildcat wreck. I meet with Bob Norton, a Kiwi ex-serviceman who was then the new proprietor of the Raiders Hotel in Tulagi, a quaint and peaceful waterfront hotel in the little former British pre-war colonial capital. The ideally located pub is sheltered from the nasty weather out in the sound, but still has a tranquil view across the bay to little Mokambo Island to the NE and beyond. Attached to the Raiders Hotel, named after the force of US Marines who liberated the island in a fierce battle in August 1942, is his dive shop, with tender tied directly to the old wharf. We dived the well-known wrecks of the large ‘Mavis’ flying boats. These are thoroughly documented and frequently dived and the huge machines make for a satisfying
D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS
exploration in just 25 metres of water. But this was just a warm up for the best bit. Bob couldn’t wait to show me a wreck of a US Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat fighter plane only then recently discovered. From pictures and model kits I recall as a kid, the stubby little aircraft was not a particularly pretty thing. The flat radial engine, stubby square wings and bulbous fuselage were in stark contrast to the attractive lines of other contemporary planes like the British Spitfire or its main adversary, the Zero. The pilot sat high up like he was riding a fat camel. However, what was particularly noteworthy of this find, since dubbed ‘The Gavutu Wildcat’ by Solomons-born WWII historian and shipwreck researcher, Ewan Stevenson,
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is that it is believed to be the aircraft of 1st Lt James E. Swett, one of the US Marine Corps most decorated pilots. Stevenson was aboard the HMNZS Resolution under command of Lt. Cdr. Matt Wray when the sonar scan revealed the aircraft some seven years ago, told me via email that while the wreck is still yet to be absolutely verified, he is confident his theory will be borne out. The circumstances of the ditching are remarkable in themselves. On 7 April 1943, a massive Japanese air raid took place on US shipping on recaptured Guadalcanal and Tulagi. This was 22-year-old Swett’s first day of service and during the torrid 15-minute air battle, Swett shot down seven attacking ‘Val’ dive bombers making him an instant ‘ace’ and Medal of Honor recipient on day one. A total of 28 aircraft were lost that day: 21 Japanese and seven Allied, yet very few wrecks have been located, most likely because they crashed out of control in deep water, unlike the wounded Swett who was able to ditch and extricate himself after some frantic effort. As we descend down a coral encrusted mooring line Bob has set up, the shape of the little plane slowly reveals itself through the gloom. This is no pile sunken scrap metal, this is history and possibly one of the most famous surviving US aircraft in the Pacific Theatre. Sitting neatly upright in 40 metres of water, it’s clear that it has not received a lot of attention. A couple of missing instruments makes me wonder whether we were among the first to explore the wreck, although there are no telltale rough efforts of brutal scavengers who often tear open the wings to get at the big 50-caliber machine guns and ammo. And there are all the hallmarks of Swett’s 15 minutes
Bridging the Pacific Qantas Codeshare Partner
PAPUA NEW GUINEA Port Moresby
SOLOMON ISLANDS Honiara VANUATU Port-Vila
AUSTRALIA
Brisbane
Nadi FIJI ISLES
Auckland
www.flysolomons.com
NEW ZEALAND Wellington
PHONE: Brisbane - 1300 894 311 Honiara - 177 from within the Solomon Islands or 20031 externally.
D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS of terror. The nose and engine are torn off from the water impact and the canopy is gone. Some gaping holes on the upper wing surface could be the accidental AA hits Swett received from his comrades on the ground. Swett recalls this exploit in a documentary made shortly before his death at age 88 in 2009. “.. after the sixth one went down, I got overconfident and on the next one the rear gunner stuck his gun practically in my face and let me have it!” The frantic Japanese rear gunner, staring death in the face, sent a burst of fire into the Wildcat’s cockpit, shattering the canopy and sending sharp fragments everywhere. Swett had also taken hits from his own anti-aircraft (AA) gunners on the ground, damaging a wing, such was the intensity of the battle. “... when he put a bullet in my oil cooler, I knew it was time to get out of there. I thought I could get back to base but the engine seized, so I headed for the water.” His ammunition expended and his plane shot up, Swett was forced to ditch and, stunned from the violent impact, found himself trapped in the cockpit for a few harrowing minutes as the plane quickly sank. Finally afloat, he was
EXPLORE • DISCOVER • RELAX • TULAGI • SOLOMON ISLANDS
PHONE (677) 32070 or 7594185
EMAIL raidershotel@solomon.com.sb
WEB www.radiershotel.com
RAIDERS HOTEL & DIVE
REEF & WRECK DIVING • ACCOMMODATION • BAR & DINING • SNORKLING • HIKING & MORE LOCATED 1 HOUR FROM HONIARA, ON THE WATERFRONT OF THE HISTORIC TULAGI HARBOUR, SOLOMON ISLANDS
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ENJOY A NIGHT OR 10 YEARS AT HONIARA’S FINEST
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P.O. Box 1598, Mendana Avenue, Honiara, Solomon Islands Email: info@heritageparkhotel.com.sb Website: www.heritageparkhotel.com.sb
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D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS rescued, recuperated and returned to service, surviving the war with 16 kills and passing away at the ripe old age of 88 in 2009. After a few minutes at this depth I started to feel the first pangs of nitrogen narcosis, a common symptom for divers descending past 25 metres, so I was doubly careful to watch my step and pay attention. For a moment there, I was transfixed by a pair of massive trevally lurking beneath the port wing and was still mildly euphoric when we surface 20 minutes later, but I put this down to the excitement of the exploration, rather than any delayed effect of the gases. The aircraft is now a site of considerable value and importance and Bob is careful not to disclose the precise location for fear of disrespectful divers helping themselves to souvenirs. As a parting word of advice, Stevenson writes “This site requires utmost respect from divers to preserve the archaeological integrity. Please do not touch or tamper with this site. In particular, please do not remove any ammunition from the ammo bays, as this information is critically required for archaeological confirmation of the site.” Ewan Stevenson and his colleagues are adding to
their tally of aircraft and shipwrecks all the time and the expedition of November 2014 was a particularly lucrative effort with numerous new finds added to the database. Few, however, would have the significance of this cute little sunken warbird. Lest We Forget. •
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BJS Recycling Specialists BJS Recycling are Solomon Islands leading scrap metal buyers. We buy all non-ferrous and some ferrous metals. Our buying prices are very competitive and our staff are experienced and passionate recyclers.
D E ST INAT IO N SAMO A
Not just any dance troupe Most resorts throughout the Pacific put on fire shows, cultural dances, kava tasting and village nights but we think we’ve found the best – Ladies’ Night at Taumeasina Island Resort in Samoa. Samoans are known for their athleticsm but the dancers at Taumeasina are somthing else, entertaining the crowd each Wednesday night with an hour of cultural, traditional and modern dance. The dance crew is all Taumeasina staff – from the activities supervisor to F&B and spa staff. The performance is lively and the focus is on fun. Often hosted by Sky City Casino’s Cindy of Samoa, guests are encouraged to join the boys and many do – the music is so much fun you can’t help yourself. Taumeasina’s GM Nathan Bucknell said ladies’ night has become the most popular night of the week at the resort – and no – it’s not just for ladies! Both sexes are welcomed to join in the fun. Guests from other resorts are also welcomed.
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Refresh ate n e v u j e R & in
Going back is like a reawakening. Laughing about times past and remembering the old ways, while creating memories and showing the new generation their heritage. Going back is more than a visit, it’s a necessity. Beautiful Samoa awaits... www.samoa.travel
D E ST INAT IO N SAMO A
Talofa Samoa Located in the heart of the South Pacific, Samoa has long been regarded as the birthplace of Polynesia, with a culture as alive today as it was 3,000 years ago. At the heart of this culture lies respect and hospitality, and the Samoan people cannot wait to demonstrate this the Samoan Way. Witness the creative expression of this tradition and join in the celebrations at a fiafia night, where delicious Samoan food, surf and turf style, is served and the culture is celebrated through traditional song, dance and storytelling as distinct and unique as the culture itself. You can even take home a memento from the local markets, with handicrafts, fashion, jewellery and handmade artifacts made in Samoa. Known by many as Mother Nature’s Playground, Samoa has an abundance of pristine beaches, lush gardens, majestic mountains, powerful blowholes and stunning seascapes, all in place waiting to be explored and enjoyed and offering a plethora of activities catering for all types of travellers. But in order to truly appreciate the beauty of Samoa,
you must tap in to the Samoan Way of living – to slow down and to faifai lemu, which literally means ‘take it easy’. Relaxation has been turned into an art form and travellers who visit Samoa soon rediscover the pleasure of simply watching the world go by. Only then can we really appreciate the beauty of nature, the importance of family and why the Fa’a Samoa culture exists to protect these. If you’re up for a family adventure, a couple’s escape, a spiritual or cultural experience or just a piece of paradise to get away from the hustle and bustle of life, beautiful Samoa awaits.
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Arrive Refreshed, with Samoa’s Own Airline! Find your happy place in Beautiful Samoa.
Image Courtesy of Auckland International Airport
Let us indulge you with our warm Samoan welcome, while you travel in style with hot meals and a generous 23kg baggage allowance. Flying with Samoa Airways makes the traveling part easy, so you’ll be refreshed for the holiday part! SAMOA Faleolo Interna onal Airport
Apia Fagali’i Airport
Pago Pago AMERICAN SAMOA
AUSTRALIA Brisbane
South Pacific Ocean
Sydney Auckland
NEW ZEALAND
www.samoaairways.com • APIA • FAGALII • AUCKLAND • BRISBANE • SYDNEY • PAGO PAGO •
D E ST INAT IO N SAMO A
Pacific Jewell Every island has its own unique handicrafts, local culture and traditions bought to life through art and craft, and Pacific Jewell in Samoa has currated a great selection. Owners Vivienne and Paul have created a beautiful space filled with gorgeous displays of local art, their passion plain to see when wandering through their two locations in Apia. Pacific Jewell’s main focus is to assist in promoting local, handmade handicrafts from the community that surrounds them, carrying only the best range of Samoan carvings and wooden artefacts. The local Samoan hardwood, Ifilele, is skillfully crafted by master-carvers and etched with traditional designs and motifs. All handicrafts are created with locally sourced materials, most importantly this is a direct way to ensure that we give back to the artists. From historic authentic war-clubs to beautifully carved platters and tanoa (kava bowls), the broad selection will ensure you won’t leave empty handed. A must do is to book in a visit to the work room and watch the hand blocked Elei (Samoan fabric prints) on Siapo (tapa cloth) being created, the vibrant fabrics and
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skills don’t disappoint. The designs themselves depict the natural environment and are hand painted with natural dyes on to carved wooden panels. This tradition is being preserved here resulting in a fantastic hand blocked range from napkins and table runners to cushion covers and bed spreads. With Vivienne and Paul’s exquisite taste and eye for detail it’s very easy to see why you can get easily carried away. “Samoan culture is rich and runs deep”, Vivienne reminds us. Visit the showroom and garden café at Levili or the city store in the SNPF Plaza when in Apia, or shop online at pacificjewellsamoa.com.
There's nothing like it!
D E ST INAT IO N SAMO A
Samoa’s own beer In 2012 after many years of research Samoa’s first locally owned beer was launched, Taula. Owned by a local Samoan family, they wanted to create a range of beers suited to the local market but thanks to a team of dedicated brewers, Taula has become popular with the expat, visitor and export markets as well. The range now includes Taula Original, a clear, smooth beer with a subtle hoppiness and mild bitter finish; Taula Strong Lager 7.0% available in 660ml bottles – a crisp, smooth lager with a sweet finish. Not to be taken lightly. Not for the ‘mosi’; Manutagi Pilsner 4.9%, a full body beer with a floral aroma and a pleasant balance of hoppiness and Sama Export 4.6% available in 330ml bottle only. This is a light, summery beer with pleasant aroma and delicate hoppiness. Try it with a slice of lime. All Taula beers are brewed in Apia under the supervision of a Kiwi craft beer specialist.
Pacific
Come visit us at one of our two locations; Levili gift shop & garden café Apia Park back road ph: +685 32888
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Gift Shop & Garden Café
Apia gift shop SNPF Plaza ph: +685 32887
Samoa
Jewell
www.pacificjewellsamoa.com | pacificjewell@gmail.com pacificjewell
D E ST INAT IO N K IRIBAT I
From the air, Kiribati is simply stunning. On the ground, friendly people, a strong culture and pristine water awaits you.
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he island nation of Kiribati, comprising 33 atolls straddles the equator stretching 3235 kilometres across the Pacific Ocean. With traditions and culture thriving and visitors regarded as a curiosity, it is the Pacific of yesteryear. South Tarawa is the urban hub of the nation with a large concentration of the population crammed into rows of houses squeezed together. Land is scarce here, the lagoon suffering under the weight of people, but this is where government and commercial activity is focused, where the hustle and bustle of Kiribati prevails. Venture away from south Tarawa and you escape this commotion, finding the unspoilt tranquillity of north Tarawa. To visit only south Tarawa is to miss the gentler side of Kiribati, the Kiribati where time flows with the moon and tides. Located on Abatao in north Tarawa, our family homestay accommodation is delightful. The road halts abruptly at a passageway between the ocean and lagoon. A prompting whistle and a motorised canoe emerges from across the water to ferry us to the other side. During the new moon, the crossing is magical as phosphorescence lights a trail behind us, swirling round our feet in the water; a step in the wet sand stirs a shower of phosphorescent dust. Our guesthouse looks over the lagoon. A raised floor, roof of pandanus leaves and a mattress. Woven palm shutters keep out the rain, the lagoon breeze provides natural air conditioning! Home for a while. Privacy is pretty much nonexistent but it all adds to the Kiribati charm. It is quite normal to wake up, see several pairs of eyes
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staring back from beyond our feet, hear a shy ‘Mauri’ and then children running away giggling! The bathroom is shared and the toilet has built-in entertainment as hermit crabs scurry around our feet. Meals are local food: pancakes made with ‘toddy’ served with coconut syrup, fish, rice, breadfruit, pandanus and coconut. Sunset over the lagoon is spectacular with a ball of fire resting on the horizon, the sky blazing with shades of orange, red, pink, purple. Serenity – apart from the lapping of the water on the lagoon edge and the distant crashing of waves on the ocean side. A receding evening tide brings fishermen into the lagoon, wading the shallows with a lamp, trailing a fishing net between them or slowly drifting in a canoe to catch the next meal. In the dark of the night, tiny lights shine out in the middle of the lagoon. Beyond the homestay, the village and North Tarawa stretch out. Traditional houses cluster together, a school, a church and a small shop, little else. Children line the street as we pass, quietly whispering or boldly shouting ‘I-Matang’ (foreigner) before running away. Others crowd round in friendly curiosity, following until we reach the edge of the village or they lose interest. Beyond the village houses are sparsely spread along the track. I-Kiribati sit talking or carrying out daily chores; men climb trees for toddy; women sit weaving mats; children play, patiently practising skills passed down to them. There is no need here for TV or fancy toys – the children seem content with what their imagination and natural environment provide. Calm and tranquillity reign. • by Vanessa Nuttall
MARSHALL ISLANDS discover the undiscovered...
A nationwide campaign to promote Marshallese products and services Marshall Islands Ministry of Resources & Development, Division of Trade & Investment Phone (692)625-3206/4020 | Fax (692) 625-7471 | Web www.rmimrd.com | Facebook Be Marshallese, Buy Marshallese
D E ST INAT IO N MARS H A L L I S L A NDS
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he Marshall Islands is unique among island nations being made up of 29 coral atolls and five single islands spread out over an exclusive economic zone of nearly 1 million square miles (one of the largest in the Pacific). The Marshall Islands is one of only four atoll countries in the world and is also one of the world’s youngest nations. Approximately 2,000 years ago, these islands were first discovered by skilled ocean voyagers who searched the horizons for new land. By the time the first European explorers arrived, in the mid-1500s, almost all 29 atolls were colonised, and the people here had developed their own unique language and culture. A young nation politically, the Marshall Islands gained its independence in 1986, after a long history of colonisation by Germany, Japan and the United States, beginning in the late part of the nineteenth century. Marshall Islanders are known as one of the friendliest and most peaceful people on earth. Inherent to their culture are the important principles of caring for one another and kindness to others. These make the Marshall Islands one of the safest places to visit. While the local population is mostly indigenous, there are many mixed German, Japanese and American Marshallese. With almost a million square miles of ocean, over 800 reef systems, and countless species of coral and marine life, the Marshall Islands is without question a scuba diver’s dream. The 30-plus metre visibility and year-round 27 degree water temperature make diving here exceptionally pleasant. One of the Marshall Islands’ key dive attractions is the abundance of WWII ship and plane wrecks. Atolls such as Bikini, Jaluit, Kwajalein, Mili and Wotje are home to dozens of famous wrecks that have just recently been explored by visiting divers. With only three scuba diving operations based on Majuro and Bikini atolls, the vast majority of the country is just waiting to be discovered.
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Name your own dive site
If you’re a diver who’s looking to escape the crowds and to tread new waters, this is the place to be. Indeed, there’s nothing more memorable than discovering a new dive site, and naming it yourself. And nothing beats the thrill of finding a new wreck. Without a doubt, your diving appetite will be quenched, or shall we say “drenched,” after a visit to the Marshall Islands. If you yearn for exploration, discovery and learning about new cultures, you’ll find a visit to the Marshall Islands very rewarding. More specifically, a trip to one of the “outer atolls,” as they are called, will provide an unforgettable experience. Here, you can find Marshall Islanders living, for the most part, in the same form and fashion as they have for hundreds of years.
The outer atolls are completely unspoilt
While Western products and technology have slowly made their way into the outer atolls, the island culture and traditional lifestyle still prevail. People here continue to rely on the sea and the land to provide for most of their needs. Men still sail their traditional canoes while women continue to weave crafts from native material. On atolls such as Mili, Jaluit, Maloelap and Wotje, you will find a multitude of WWII relics, including anti-aircraft guns, coastal defense guns, Japanese Zeros, bunkers and more. On Majuro Atoll, the nation’s capital, you’ll find the major hotels and facilities. Here, there is an array of restaurants, bars and local craft shops. You will also find the Alele Museum, which houses pictures and artifacts from the nation’s past. Majuro is home to nearly half of the entire Marshall Islands’ population, and it is, therefore, quite developed in comparison to most other atolls. •
beran island resort - All inclusive luxury accommodation - 45 acre private island - Exclusive island booking for up to16 guests - Gourmet meals, beer & wine included - Dive, surf, windsports, fishing all included - Singles & small groups upon availability -
marshall islands
beranisland.com
LO N G D I S TANCE LOV E AF FAIR
y t i C n o Li
Singapore Fling Stop, shop, stay – Singapore is no longer seen as just a stopover, and with Fiji Airways flying direct, this vibrant city is a destination in it’ own right and worthy of a longer stay if you want really catch up on the culture, the food and the shopping. Craig Osment unpacks for a few days on a return visit. The ever-expanding and futuristic island of Singapore is an Asian icon when it comes to progress and prosperity but thankfully some of the
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f you live in our corner of the world most travel outside the immediate region is going to involve a stopover. These can be either a welcome break with a hotel bed for a night or two, or just another irritating airport to navigate. And in these days of the mega hubs it can sometimes take 20 minutes by bus from your plane to the terminal and then another twenty minutes walking to your departure gate. You need sat nav inside the building! That said I’ve always preferred Singapore and Hong Kong to those Middle Eastern hubs which have so spectacularly emerged from the sand. Singapore is a favourite because access to the city is so easy and the ever-expanding Changi airport a dream. And I love a bit of shopping to work up an appetite. And in spite of its newfound gloss, just to keep things interesting, Singapore still retains a remnant of Asian loucheness even if a little sanitised. This ever expanding (land reclamation ensures it just keeps growing) manicured little island which hangs off the end of the Malaysian peninsula has accumulated a world leading clutch of accommodation choices from 5-star hotels to apartments, ‘residences’ and Airbnb condos. So finding somewhere to stay is a breeze. And speaking of breezes, you’ll keep you cool here in the steamy tropics as there is an air-conditioned mall on almost every corner, indeed this prosperous little island state is so enmeshed with its malls that even the global internet shopping giants haven’t been able to crack the place. Just 4.6 per cent of Singaporeans shop online compared to around 15 per cent in Britain. So what’s the attraction? Apart from an Asian love of designer labels ensuring the full alphabet of international
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couturiers has a presence here from Alexander McQueen and Armani to Versace and Valentino the usual high street suspects are predictably well represented too from Adidas to Zara. Plus one of my favourite Japanese department stores – Takashimaya. But if you’re looking for something a little different to the merchandise found in every transit lounge, Singapore has hatched its own clutch of local design heroes. They range from a host of local apparel designers to craftsmen making bespoke leatherwear and stationery like Bynd Artisan where you can buy a beautiful leather lanyard with linen stitching and a brass hook for S$60 to a suede-lined leather document case for S$550. They operate three ‘ateliers’ but try the one in the colourful Holland Village for a bit of added atmosphere. For more atmosphere (but still mostly air-conditioned) there are a variety of regular flea markets for those who’d like something pre-owned. In a place which thrives on consuming there has be somewhere for people to get rid of last year’s handbag, or watch or even a comic or vinyl record as well as antiques. Among the better known are the China Square Central Weekend Flea Market and Fleawhere which seems to host a market somewhere almost every day. For something a little more artistic and original get along to MAAD (Market of Artists and Designers) within the Design District. This is organised by the Red Dot Design Museum and showcases the works of local designers and artists along with some live music. Another colourful and original shopping precinct is found in Bugis Street, which in its notorious heyday was home to a very visible transsexual population which became something of a tourist destination in themselves. That
best buildings have been preserved and repurposed, like the five-star Fullerton Hotel (below) which was the original General Post Office.
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Top: left; why it’s called Boat Quay – as it was, and right; now. Above left: Changi Airport T4 terminal and Marina Bay Sands (right).
all came to an end in the mid eighties when the area was ‘trans-formed’ into a retail complex and is now reputed to be the biggest shopping area on the island, although more popular with locals than tourists. Of course the most famous shopping street is Orchard Road which a few decades ago was home to evening hawker stall markets in car parks but these days is prime real estate occupied by upmarket hotels and one mall after another as well as home to two of Singapore’s original department stores in Robinsons and TANGS as well as Takashimaya. One of the country’s most ostentatiously glamorous areas didn’t even exist when Bugis Street and Orchard Road were enjoying their pre renovation fame. Marina Bay Sands sitting on reclaimed land to the east of the city is an ‘integrated resort’ which I believe is a euphemism for a lavishly decorated hotel funded by a casino. The three towers with their signature cantilevered rooftop swimming pool and three-acre Skypark are home to more than 2,500 hotel rooms, a convention centre, a museum, two theatres, numerous restaurants, two floating pavilions, the huge casino and … the Shoppes at Marina Bay
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Sands. This is the mall of malls when comes to brand names, and even for a committed consumer I find myself overwhelmed by the sheer audacity of a retail arcade set alongside an internal canal replete with quaint little boats which maybe are meant to nostalgically remind us of simpler times around Clarke Quay and Boat Quay or maybe the Grand Canal. Give me the very elegant Fullerton Hotel in its converted post office or Raffles any day. Having said that and after an exhausting round of retail, the other wonderful attraction is the food, it’s everywhere and you don’t need to inhabit a mall to find the best on offer. There are still authentic suburban hawker markets although these days they are undercover and if it’s something a little more cool and stylish then the choice is endless from modest to Michelin, Euro to fusion to the indigenous original Nyonya to Mod-Sin (modern Singaporean). In fact food shopping might be even more fun than the other kind and nothing to carry unless you’re getting a takeaway! Fiji Airways is now offering two direct flights each week on Mondays and Saturdays. So book a holiday stay or connect and fly on to any number of worldwide destinations.•
R E S OR T R E POR T
Log on to shape up in paradise Keeping in shape on holiday is a unique experience in itself at VOMO Island Fiji. VOMO has its own tailor-made exercise programme called VOMOFit, so guests can exercise at their own pace; in the privacy of their villa, on the beach or yoga deck – wherever they choose – with an instructor or by themselves. It’s as simple as logging on to the VOMOFit videos on a mobile device or tablet via the VOMO website and then pushing play. VOMO General Manager Mark Leslie says, “What better place to continue a fitness regime or inspire the beginning of a new one than at VOMO. And guests can even take their memories with them and continue exercising once they’re back home.” The programme offers solo or couples options,
Fiji’s Iguana Nirvana Based at Likuliku Lagoon Resort, the Ahura Resorts Iguana Sanctuary welcomed more new arrivals of the endangered Fijian Crested Iguana. These new captive-bred hatchlings bring the total to five born in the last year in what is the only facility of its kind in the world to successfully breed this species under ‘natural’ conditions. This essentially means, no laboratories or incubators and that the adult female laid her eggs in the dirt at the bottom of the cage as she would do in the wild. Other captive programs and zoos practice incubation where they actually dig the eggs out of the dirt and incubate them. Sia Rasalato, Group Environment Manager for Ahura Resorts (Likuliku’s owning/management company), explains: “Two of Likuliku’s captive females laid approximately four to six eggs each back in January (you cannot identify the exact number of eggs each female laid due to the fact they hatch naturally in captivity). Three eggs from one of the females hatched on 30th August, but unfortunately one didn’t make it as it was very weak. Following this, another egg hatched from the second female a few days later and we are expecting more eggs to hatch within the next couple of weeks. Then all these new hatchlings will be closely monitored before they are tagged and released into the wild. likulikulagoon.com 92 | Islandliving pacific
as either one off, four or seven-day sessions. Designed by Australian based Kiwi fitness and wellness coach Scott Thompson the programmes are fun, challenging and motivating including a choice of cardio, circuit training and strength sessions. VOMO is an expansive island haven for exercising – 255 acres of land mountain, and 5km of white sandy beaches encircling the island. Guests can also challenge themselves by running or walking the Mt Vomo Sunrise Charity Run. Mt Vomo is a soaring peak on VOMO Island with sweeping views across the resort and Mamanuca Islands, sunrise atop Mt Vomo is breathtaking. Find the program at vomofiji.com/vomo-fit
The Ocean Downstairs Discover your own tropical paradise at Fiji Marriott Resort Momi Bay, and if you can, stay in the overwater villas. The resort features 136 contemporary Deluxe rooms and 114 luxurious Bure Villas, including 22 Over-Water Bure Villas with direct lagoon access. All rooms and Bure Villas come with a private balcony or terrace and extensive views of the pool, lagoon or ocean. Enjoy drifting off to the gentle ocean breeze and waking up to the sound of lapping waves in a romantic adults only over-water bure villa. Dining options at Momi include several restaurants and bars, and private cabana dinner at Fish Bar, a refined dining experience that boasts breath-taking sunsets. Escape to Quan Spa for an indulgent array of spa services and treatments and spa manicures. Quan Spa, featuring couple treatment rooms with a plunge pool, will delight and relax. Soak up the sun at one of the swimming pools, including the adults only infinity pool, relax at the swim-up bar and enjoy cocktails at the Lagoon Lounge. fijimarriott.com | momibay. reservations@marriott.com
Heritage Park Hotel, Honiara Honiara’s premier hotel has recently been refurbished with a fresh new boutique look. The Terrace restaurant now blends in with the garden extending beyond the patio. With green furniture and the overhang of plants, diners can feel part of the coastal surrounds of The Heritage whilst escaping the heat. There is a permanent buffet and a dedicated live cooking station now as well. You can have eggs cooked to your liking at breakfast, be served express lunch during the afternoons and watch Mongolian food or the delectable Indian ‘chaats’ being served from here during the theme night dinners. The formal GG’s restaurant has a section of the interior dedicated to historical archived pictures of Solomon Islands. There is plenty of use of local craft adorning the walls. One feature wall displays pictures of the Governor Generals who lived here when it was Government House, whilst another wall is beautifully decorated with mirrors. At the hotel entrance a ‘green wall’ of foliage has been created to camouflage the view of the art gallery. The foyer is warm and welcoming. An art feature of a young Solomon Island boy reflects the essence of Solomon Islands as seen through his eyes. heritageparkhotel.com.sb
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DIN IN G THE MARKET GARDENS OF EDEN
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he capital of Fiji, up until recently had not been known as a tourist town. Home to embassies and NGOs, regional headquarters and Fiji’s biggest population, Suva was all about business travel. The re-opening of the Grand Pacific Hotel and Fiji Airways’ direct flights from Sydney and Auckland have seen more visitors arrive in recent years to check out the capital. One thing Suva has had for many years now, is some of the best restaurants in the Pacific. Eden, owned and operated by the formidable Sangeeta Maharaj is in a class of its own. Sangeeta visits the Suva markets early every Saturday to get the freshest catch, most aromatic spices and crunchy vegetables to ensure her restaurant guests enjoy a fabulous
meal. A walk through the Suva markets with Sangeeta is a true Fijian experience – her favourite farmers all greet her with huge smiles and save their best catch for her. Eden’s menu is extensive – from Pacific flavours to Indian favourites, Thai curries to New Zealand Lamb. The seafood is the best available in Fiji and Sangeeta’s curry pastes are all homemade. Sangeeta loves to travel and when she does she takes cooking classes along the way, bringing home new recipes to extend her menu. Eden is located near the American embassy, on the corner of Bureta and Maharaj Streets. Bookings are required for most nights due to its popularity. •
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DINING
The Sheraton Fiji Resort is renowned for its location and service. The addition of Vai guarantees ‘an explosion of flavour’.
VAI RESTAURANT AND BAR, SHERATON FIJI RESORT
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enarau is Fiji's home to luxury hotels with the Sheraton Fiji Resort first among equals so it's no surprise that its new restaurant offering, Vai is a cracker. Situated on the beach with 180-degree ocean views and stunning sunsets, Vai captures the heart and soul of Fiji. ‘Vai’ meaning ray fish or stingray in local dialect, brings to the Pacific an explosion of Mediterranean flavour. Chef Camilo Vanazzi originally from Brazil delivers his favourite recipes to Fiji. Camilo has travelled through France, Spain and Italy gathering a wealth of knowledge in culinary expertise. Before arriving in Fiji, he worked in several two and three Michelin star restaurants including La Cote Saint Jacques at Bourgogne in France.
Camilo is a lover of nature and everything that it provides. From its fresh and tasty food to moments of quiet contemplation such as surfing and yoga. “My father used to cook at home and from an early age I helped him cut and prepare our dinners. It was from this moment that I wished to prepare for them day by day and make it my lifestyle.” The Vai experience begins with an adults only ocean side breakfast which flows seamlessly through to a Mediterranean inspired lunch menu, with subtle salads, fresh seafood and handmade pasta. Dinner tops out with an extensive selection of freshly caught lobsters, mud crab and slipper bugs cooked to perfection.•
“Sinfully Good Food”
P: 338 6246 | Facebook: edenfiji E: eden@connect.com.fj www@edenfiji.com.fj Cnr Bureta & Maharaj St, Tamavua, Suva
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C H R I S T IAN A COOK S
Spiny
Rock Lobster S
piny lobsters are also known as langouste and especially in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and The Bahamas, sometimes called painted crayfish or crawfish. Spiny lobsters are found in almost all warm seas, in shallow water, less than 20 metres. They tend to live in crevices of rocks and coral reefs, occasionally venturing out at night to seek food such as snails, clams, crabs and sea urchins. Their body colour varies and is often brightly patterned and their antennas are extremely long. The Pacific is rich in rock lobsters and diving for them you can
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sometimes find them under coral heads or in caves during the day, but most of them stay hidden until night. Soon after sunset the lobsters start moving around on top of the reef and then it is easy to catch them by hand. Lobsters are most active on nights when there is no moon or when there are several hours of darkness before the moon rises. Rock lobsters have a lot of sharp spines and are to be handled with care. Being an underwater huntress, I have caught and prepared many of them. They are always a delicacy and there are many ways of preparation, but sometimes it is the best to keep it simple and get the genuine taste of the sweet and rich flavour of the flesh. There are different ways to kill a lobster, but the RSPCA recommended placing lobster in a freezer to send it to sleep before cooking. Once dead, cut the lobster evenly in half from head to tail and remove the tomalley – the soft, green substance found in the body cavity. You can boil the dead lobster, as soon as they are cooked they change the colour of their carapace into a bright red. It is important not to overcook them! They taste delicious grilled, boiled, prepared with various sauces, and eaten hot or cold and even raw as a tartar or carpaccio. Some of the best flesh is in the legs and one should take plenty of time to crack them and enjoy the feast! Spiny Lobsters work well with tropical flavours like green papaya, mango, and ginger. Crisp, dry white wines are a great pairing with this dish, such as a Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre or an unwooded Chardonnay. Here are a couple of my favourite recipes:
PICTURES: Christiana Kaluscha.
Having lived on boats and islands for many years Christiana Kaluscha has caught and eaten more rock lobsters than most.Here are a couple of her favourite recipes.
Left: Freshly cooked, red and ready to eat. Above Left: Grilled lobster with saffron lime butter. Right: Spaghetti with Crayfish.
Grilled lobster with saffron lime butter INGREDIENTS • 2 live rock lobsters, about 750 g each For the saffron lime butter • 100 g butter, softened • Finely grated rind of 1 lime • 2 Tbsp. lime juice • 1 spring onion, finely sliced • ½ Tsp. chilli, finely cut • 4 young Kaffir lime leaves, finely sliced • 20 saffron threads, crushed • Salt to taste
METHOD • Combine butter with all ingredients and set aside • Prepare the wood fired or charcoal grill, letting it burn down to medium-high heat, 15 to 20 minutes. • While the grill is preheating, cut the lobster evenly in half from head to tail and remove the tomalley. • Season the lobsters generously with salt and pepper and place them on the grill, shell side down. Brush each lobster with half with the saffron lime butter and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the meat is just barely opaque and springy to the touch. Turn over for about 1 minute, turn again shell side down and brush with the rest of the butter, grill for about another minute. • Place the grilled lobsters on plates and serve immediately accompanied by a green salad with red papaya and thinly sliced red onion tossed with a French dressing.
Spaghetti with Crayfish, chili and garlic (serves 4) This recipe is a great dish that can be prepared in less than twenty minutes. INGREDIENTS • 400g raw crayfish/lobster tails, shelled and cut into bite size pieces • 2 shallots, chopped • 3 cloves garlic, chopped • 2 red chilies, seeded and chopped • A pinch of saffron • 200 ml dry white wine • A handful flat leaf parsley, shredded • 400 g spaghetti no. 5, always use best quality like DeCecco or Barilla
METHOD • Heat some olive oil in a pan, add the shallot, chilli, garlic and saffron and cook for a few minutes. Season well before adding the wine. Bring back to the boil, then reduce heat and simmer. • Cook the pasta for 6 minutes. There is an old Italian cooking adage about how pasta water should be as salty as the sea. Try it, the pasta tastes great done this way! • Once the wine has reduced by half, add the crayfish and drained pasta. Keep reducing until the majority of the wine has gone, leaving you with a slightly thickened sauce and by now the pasta should be perfectly cooked ‘al dente’. ( this should take max. 3 minutes) • Remove the pan from the heat then stir in half of the parsley, pour on a good glug of extra virgin olive oil and stir • To serve, spoon generously into heated bowls and sprinkle the remaining parsley over the top. To finish, grate a little Grana Padano or Parmagiano over the top.
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FITNE SS
Find Your Inner Zen Five minutes of slow breathing or meditation can help reduce our heart rate, enable creativity and ensure clarity in our day.
Lauren Jagger brings you her top tips on how you can minimise your stress when dealing with island ‘rush hour’. Believe it or not there really is a rush hour in the islands and traffic can come to a standstill.
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rying to zone out at the best of times can be hard but trying to do it on an island can be paradoxically challenging. Sometimes ‘island time’ can prove
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frustrating when you are trying to work or go about your everyday life. For some the idea of living on an island brings the notion of days drinking cocktails and endless hours spent
walking barefoot on the beach but in reality for a lot of people island life can be almost as hectic as living in any major city with the added heat to contend with. When we become stressed our body produces a stress hormone called cortisol which can have several effects on our body such as lowering your immune system making you more susceptible to illness, increasing your heart rate and blood pressure and it can also affect your memory – so if we can reduce the amount of stress we expose ourselves to we are giving our bodies a fighting chance at a healthier life. Everyone at some point in their day has to deal with stress, but stress is individual and what may be easy to deal with for one, will feel like balancing a house of cards to another. The key to managing stress is not being afraid of it and being able to embrace the challenge and manage it. From my own experience and many tried and tested methods I have found a few techniques that have helped me overcome the feeling of stress.
Breathe easy
Learn how to breathe – in a typical day we breathe over 23,000 times and our bodies don’t give it a second thought. Now if we could slow down for a moment and focus on our breathing, even if only for five minutes, which is only one percent of a typical eight hour work day then it could make a significant difference. Five minutes of slow breathing or meditation can help reduce our heart rate, enable creativity and ensure clarity in our day. Be present in the moment, in many businesses you are invited to events, functions or asked to speak at seminars but how many times are you at an event but not really there? These moments only come around once so we need to make sure that if we are somewhere then we truly are present and for that one hour or evening you give your undivided attention. Adapt your expectations and work within your means. This reduces the amount of stress we put ourselves under. Treasure the simpler things in life – don’t take for granted the fact that when your work day is over you can watch the sunset. Keep your head up more often and embrace nature, limit your device time and social media updating to only 30 minutes a day. Spend time on yourself and your own life with real life experiences such as cooking, catching up with friends over coffee or embracing a new hobby.
Time out
Take time out to enjoy food – when your stomach starts to rumble then it’s a heads up for a break. This doesn’t mean grabbing a quick sugary snack whilst typing away at your laptop. Every mealtime should be an occasion, whether you decide to meet with a friend or arrange a business meeting with a new client, be sure to make mealtimes count. Eat cleaner; what we decide to put in our bodies has a massive effect on our mood and overall productivity. Have you ever
indulged in fried food and all of a sudden your skin and hair begin to feel greasy too? When you have a slump in your day reach for a natural high such as a slice of pineapple or a fresh seafood salad. Find a hobby – in many paradise islands our hobbies from our previous lives don’t always translate into our new home but that’s ok change is a good thing every now and then.
Give your devices the flick
Find a hobby that you can take part in that allows escapism whether it be running on your local beach, taking up yoga on the sundeck or joining the local fitness classes, whatever it is, ensure that it allows you at least 60 minutes of YOU time with no distractions. Know when to switch off; living on an island can often result in FOMO (fear of missing out) treasure the ability to be able to snorkel amongst some of the world’s best coral, help save endangered sea turtles or engage in your local community and really learn about their customs, traditions and educate yourself on something worthwhile. Revel in the bad Internet connection (this can and does happen anywhere in the world) – I often feel this is a sign of Mother Nature telling me enough of the devices. We should only ever be looking at a computer screen for a maximum of 20 minutes at a time anyway so it’s another way of looking after your health. Even if you decide that every day you are going to down tools disconnect for 30 minutes and go for a walk. This will allow you to re-connect with reality and also save your eyes in the long run. Live every day with a purpose, each day when you wake be sure to treasure every moment. Write down one achievement for the day and place it in a jar. By the end of the year you can look back at 365 amazing things that you have done that year. Be mindful of others on your journey, when we are in a rush and stressed, sometimes a friend in need of advice is more important and valuable than the sales meeting
Reconnect and unfold
If the world ended tomorrow what would you have preferred to have done? We don’t get a second chance at life so make the right choices and prioritise what’s most important. Accepting that life truly is just a game has come to be one of the most valuable pieces of advice I’ve ever received. When life starts to feel overbearing step back and appreciate what really matters – it won't be material things. Stop and think, what will really happen if I don’t check my emails … nothing but what will happen I miss making memories with loved ones? Too much stress can cause havoc within your body so be sure to remember to do something positive and productive for your mind and body each day reconnect and watch your tension unfold. * Lauren Jagger is creative director of Fiji-based Bulalicious Activewear available online with free shipping worldwide at: www.bulalicious.com •
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PACIFIC ISLAND LIVING | SUMMER 2018/19 | LIVING THE DREAM
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H E A LTH Y LIV ING
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Above left: Iririki's spa is a quick buggy trip up to the very peak of the island. Above Right: Taumeasina massage by the pool. Right top: The very
Our intrepid reviewers Georgie Gordon and Penny Gamble reluctantly agree to road testing some of the Pacific’s best spa treatments. Total indulgence in exotic locations, what’s not to like?
Six Senses, Fiji
The spa at eco-friendly Six Senses resort on the island of Malolo takes a holistic approach to pampering. Surrounded by a lush tropical gardens the spa embodies the philosophy that well-being is linked to rejuvenating benefits of nature. Stepping out of the jungle and into the calming lounge you can choose to visit the nail bar or the alchemy bar where you can blend your own local ingredients for a treatment in one of their four luxurious bures. For a more integrated approach the spa offers
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a wellness consultation and assessment for a personalised program including suggested lifestyle adjustments and oneon-one meditation sessions. Swoon worthy treatments include a muscle relieving hot lava shell massage and a indulgent gold leaf facial. Do try: The Fijian bobo massage with herbal poultices. A warm massage with herbs picked from the spa garden designed to increase circulation, release toxins and ease muscle tension.
Taumeasina Island Resort, Samoa
Fofo Spa and Sauna at Samoa’s luxury Taumeasina Island Resort offers a tranquil and rejuvenating escape with world class spa and beauty treatments that embrace Samoa’s traditional practices. Soothing massages combine Swedish and local techniques
ions and sound of lapping waves adding to the serene environment. It is true luxury here, every detail thought of. The therapies incorporate indigenous rituals and there is a focus on natural beauty treatments using Pure Fiji products. Tatadra’s Fijian massages by their specially trained therapists are a must when visiting. Do try: The Twilight Tadra. A decadent couples treatment including champagne, massage and a hydrating milk bath.
Iririki Island Resort and Spa Vanuatu,
stylish reception area at Six Senses; below: Likuliku milk bath awaits.
using native oils of Layu and Nono. For those that like a firm massage the Taumeasina Signature Massage is an intense but therapeutic experience using the Lomilomi technique with a bamboo stick. Premium marine Thalgo and local Mailelani products are used for beauty treatments. A range of beauty treatments are also available including facials, manicures and pedicures. Do try: The Papaya Peel Natural Facelift Facial. An effective treatment for fine lines and wrinkles that conditions the skin for a soft and smooth appearance.
Likuliku Lagoon Resort, Fiji Likuliku Lagoon Resort’s spa is called Tatadra meaning ‘house of dreams’ and it certainly lives up to its moniker. The adults only resort, also located on Malolo boasts Fiji’s first overwater bungalows. The spa’s treatment rooms however sit on the island each one offering a view of the lagoon, the negative
Unless you are a hotel guest a visit to Iririki Island Resort’s day spa begins with short boat trip to the pretty island in Port Vila Harbour. As the ferry putts across the aqua blue water away from the hustle and bustle of town I relax and anticipate my arrival, I have heard wonderful things about the new spa that boasts one of Vanuatu's most spectacular settings. A quick buggy trip up to the very peak of the island takes me there where I am greeted with warm smiles. Entering the spa is a sensory experience from the sound of water bubbling from the water feature and birds chirping in the beautiful surrounding gardens, to the bowls of fragrant flowers, however it is the view that takes my breath away. Entering one of the treatment rooms (there are six) floor to ceiling windows boast the most spectacular view of the harbour and beyond. I am lucky enough to have Joanna the spa manager as my massage therapist, I opt for the 90 minute Iririki Signature Massage, a mix of stretching, pressure point manipulation and other techniques designed for deep relaxation and tailored to address the specific needs of your body. Drifting off I find myself wondering how someone so small can inflict so much pain, my petite therapist well versed in exactly the right amount of pressure to apply before bringing me back from the brink of excruciation to a sublime release of tension. After a blissful hour and a half of being pushed, pulled and having my muscles rubbed into submission with tana oil and an especially pleasurable head massage where Joanna works her magic on the pressure points on my head, I lift my head to gaze across the sea feeling like a different person to the one that entered the room. I could happily spend all day here, Joanna and her team are running a world class spa, Thalgo marine products are used for the skin treatments, there is a hairdressing salon, scrub room with a bath designed for couples treatments, outdoor shower and manicure and pedicure room. Do try: As the mother of a young baby I knew I was tired but I was surprised by how much tension I had been carrying and how much better I felt after my treatment. I left feeling content, refreshed and rejuvenated. On that little boat back to Port Vila I am already thinking about my next visit, when I’ll time a hot rocks massage to finish as the sun sets over that magnificent view. – GG •
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ABOD E
e r u t c e Archit
Open House
Wherever there’s water you’ll find people clustered nearby. Some may be camping under canvas or living the simple life in a cabin, others just picknicking in a park, and for the lucky few, inhabiting their dream home designed specifically for them. Toby Preston checks out a lavish book on the latter. Below: Cape Town, South Africa, this home designed by SAOTA features internal and external polished concrete floors to ensure continuity.
Above: Ammoudi, Greece, all internal living areas can be converted into covered outdoor areas by sliding glass panels. Architect, Katerina Valsamaki.
H
ighlighting thirty five spectacular, recently completed houses overlooking sea, lake, river, and ocean, selected for beauty and variety across the globe, Houses by the Shore features homes that demonstrate the extraordinarily diverse ways that today’s leading architects and interior designers build and design homes on the water and new approaches homeowners are taking to life on the shore. Frequently elegant and uncluttered, these houses serve as models of smart and often exquisite design with lots of ideas for homeowners who don’t necessarily live in a waterfront home, but who wish to have something of that appeal and sensitivity in their own space. A range of projects encompassing myriad geographic and cultural inspirations show some of the world’s most inviting residences, built in stone and glass, in wood and steel and concrete. The houses vary in size and style, though all within the realm of the modern, from open plan homes that include terraces and rooms that flow from indoors to out, to spaces flooded with light and views. Co author Byron Hawes sums up the litoral life in his introduction – “Waterfront living is a pinnacle of aspirational lifestyle goals. Few experiences rate as highly as something so simple as waking up to the sight of a babbling brook, a crystal clear mountain lake, or the sight of ocean waves cascading gently onto the beach. It provides an innate sense of calm; of repose. I hesitate to use the term spiritual, as spirituality is one of those purely subjective terms, like ‘art’, that can mean all things to all people. However, the benefits to, for lack of a better term, psyche, [are] all indescribable. “There are myriad differing waterfront experiences to be had, from sleepy beach towns to the edges of bustling metropolises;
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from idyllic rural elysium to snow blown Nordic cabins. What they inevitably have in common is a oneness with nature; a pursuit of not juxtaposing with environment, but becoming one with it. This book examines several types of waterfront residential architecture, across six of the world’s seven continents, and a wide assortment of geographies and climates. As such, architectural intentions vary drastically." He deftly encapsulates tropical modern architecture which is common in the Pacific as: “Essentially, tropical modernism is characterised by its adaptation of modern architecture to tropical climes, and to a furtherance of that minimalist aesthetic that has allowed modernism to highlight its environments. Promoting and expanding upon the correlation between built environments and natural ones ... “Warm-weather waterfront residences frequently display a minimalism of form, allowing indoors and outdoors to become one in perfect harmony. A particularly notable, and overt, example of this is Benjamin Garcia Saxe’s Ocean Eye (far right), which distills tropical residential architecture down to its very essence ... its ocean-facing elevation manifesting as an entirely open-air space, covered by a massive pilotis-raised, overhanging roof. Ocean Eye is a pure distillation of indoor/ outdoor tropical modernism; an almost wholly outdoor house that boasts entirely open living spaces in their purest possible form." Houses by the Shore At Home with the Water – River, Lake, Sea | Oscar Riera Ojeda & Byron Hawes. Published by Rizzoli available at www.hardiegrantbooks.com•
Below: With a view like that it could only be Greece. The Silver House by Olivier Dwek Architects is in the Ionian Islands and was built entirely
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Left: This spectacularly sited private holiday house in Gargnano, Italy is designed by Titus Bernhard Architekten and overlooks lake Garda. The architect in endeavoring to remain faithful to the traditional aesthetics and materials of the neighbouring structures crafted the house from a “subtle symphony of locally sourced dry-stone construction; allowing what is essentially an wholly modern design to seamlessly blend into its surroundings. Mimicking the area’s overarchingly rough, haptic character, the house flawlessly conveys a warm, rustic character” Below: Benjamin Garcia Saxe’s Ocean Eye in Puntarenas, Costa Rica, is blessed by a site awash in natural beauty, which boasts two distinct and breath-taking views: towards the ocean and out into the jungle. “the structure’s ocean-facing elevation manifests as an entirely open-air space, covered by a massive pilotis-raised, overhanging roof. Ocean Eye is a pure distillation of indoor/outdoor tropical modernism; an almost wholly outdoor house that boasts entirely open living spaces in their purest possible form.”
around the panoramic views. Below: Set on a lakeside beach in Chicago, architects GLUCK+ created a great pool below the main house.
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A R T S MAR T
FishHoTales oked
We keep them in aquariums, we eat them, we catch them for sport and commerce, we regale others with tales of the one that did or didn’t get away. Here Toby Preston looks at fish out of water, and on the wall
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Opposite page: M.C. Escher’s 1938 woodcut ‘Day and Night’. Top left: Skeletal illustration of common perch, circa 1843. Above: Poster of Koi by Elisabeth Martel. Left Red Snapper trophy. Below: mechanical/biological crustacean by French artist Steeven Salvat who reproduces old biological studies.
I
t’s not compulsory to be a pescatarian or a Pisces to appreciate things ichthyological. Recreational fishing is one of the most significant outdoor activities, in Australia there are said to be three million fishers or anglers which makes it one of the biggest participatory sports in the country. In the islands it obviously has a long tradition as a means of catching food and, now with the advent of tourism there’s a lucrative industry catering to the game fishing fraternity. From anchovies to whale sharks, they have figured in religious ceremonies and mythology for millennia, they were offered to the gods by the ancient Mesopotamians, one was responsible for having swallowed Jonah only to have regurgitated him some time later, they are the preferred food for feeding the multitudes in the gospels and they are proselytising Christians’ favourite bumper sticker having been adopted by earlier followers as a secret symbol of their faith. As for their significance in art they have been making appearances since being scratched onto cave walls. They are popular among Japanese artists and made it on to Renaissance canvases as well those of Vincent van Gogh, Paul Klee and Dutch graphic designer Maurits Cornelis (M. C.) Escher. Not to mention the wooden plaques in men’s dens all over the world.•
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Above: As a cetacean, strictly speaking not a fish but a sea creature with presence, a print from the British Museum of Natural History.
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Top left: An example of the taxidermist’s art this Tarpon which can grow up to eight feet long was created by Gray Taxidermy in Florida. Above: Canvas crab print from US$19.99 at spotcolorart.com Left: Muchexhibited Melbourne artist Lydia Ciconte (lydiafineart.com.au) has a passion for painting nature from animals from lions and elephants to, well, lobsters. Below: Hong Kong artist Peony Yip “portrays the fine line between the grotesque and [the] beauty of death” in this work from her series called To Bloom Not Bleed. Find her on Facebook or Behance.
Below left: A poster from Colorado State University warning of environmental dangers. Centre: A Moronidae or Bass from Fishes of Australia.
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PA C I FIC PU LS E
Battle Stations y m r a y n r o h t ah’s
Havann
After noticing a spike in numbers, three passionate divers on Vanuatu’s Efaté island have declared war on the menacing crown of thorns starfish which has caused havoc on the reefs of the world. With help from the local Fisheries department, a simple means of eradication is under way writes Tony Wilson.
I
t is the classic David versus Goliath tale. It involves three good mates – an accountant, a builder and a retiree. Their unbreakable common bond is their insatiable love of diving and all things related to the ocean – in this case the one surrounding the island of Efaté, home to Port Vila the capital of Vanuatu. Their lives are based in and around the pristine waters of the mighty Havannah Harbour in north-west Efaté and through that love they have become engaged in a major battle against a marine monster that is the scourge of the Pacific. Their sworn enemy is the Crown of Thorns starfish (COTs) or Acanthaster planci, which are large, multiple-armed starfish that usually prey on hard or stony coral polyps. The crown-ofthorns starfish received its name from its venomous thorn-like spines that cover its upper surface, resembling the biblical crown of thorns. COTs gained international infamy in their ferocious attack on Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, one of the world’s most revered natural wonders. And that battle is still being fought. Sadly, Vanuatu is not immune from this formidable predator, but the ongoing war against it in Havannah Harbour is one to please the ‘David’ supporters around the world. John Warmington, a well-respected Australian-born accountant with his firm The Bottom Line, lives and breathes diving and underwater photography. Living at Havannah Estate with is partner Sandy, he dives at least once a week in that marine paradise. And while doing that in March this year he spotted trouble. John was diving with neighbours Dean Greaney, a popular Kiwi builder and Brian Smith, a super fit retiree and ex-Gold Coast businessman. All three are very experienced divers. “Brian, Dean and I dive every weekend and we first noticed an outbreak of COTs off our property at Havannah Estate
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earlier this year,’’ said John. “I have been a regular diver in Havannah for more than six years and I had never seen more than two or three COTs together before. “The next time we went out it was just as bad again and we knew we had a problem on our hands.” John went and saw Mike Crawford, the boss of Big Blue Diving in Port Vila, which is the largest dive training establishment in Vanuatu. “They had been battling COTs in Mele Bay for some time and he told me about these injector kits you can get from Fisheries which uses two shots of 10ml each of vinegar to kill the COT,’’ he said. “So I went to Fisheries and they were extremely helpful and I left there armed with two injector kits and a supply of vinegar.” The injector kit is like a hand-held gun that delivers a measured dose of vinegar through a needle into the COT. It is attached to a plastic bottle filled with vinegar that floats behind the snorkeller or diver.
John said they have found COTS around Havannah waters over the past few months, in the shallows around a metre deep and down to as deep as below 30 metres. At first the COT terminators were turning over the COTS after injecting them, but John spoke to a Noumea marine scientist who advised him to leave the COTs where they lay in case they released eggs. The COTs can release as many as one million eggs per year, which makes them a formidable enemy. John began emailing the Havannah community which now numbers more than 40 homes and he said the response has been fantastic. “Not everyone can dive or snorkel or even kill another living creature despite the menace COTs are, but most of the community even those who don’t live permanently in Vanuatu, have pledged their help,” he said. “Those that aren’t taking up the battle in the water have offered money to buy litres and litres of vinegar and some more injection kits. “Ultimately we would like to have a kit in every home, so where possible they can defend the areas off their own beaches.”
COT War 11
The three diving buddies began COT War II around April and by August the numbers had risen to 11, which included three local ni Van villagers. “We need more ni Vans involved as we are fighting to protect their reefs – and healthy reefs mean healthy fish around them which is important,’’ said John. One of the original trio, Dean Greaney was an anti-COT combatant in COT War I in 2014. “This was similar situation with numbers of COTs further south than this time – mainly between Mangaliliu and Paul’s Rock and the group involved basically decided we would not let the COTs past a certain line,’’ he recalled. “We were pretty successful then and we are determined to win again.” John said that recently in Havannah they had found COTs cut in two, presumably by a bush knife. “This is the ni Vanuatu trying to help, but they do not realise that when they do that it doesn’t kill the COT, they just reform into two new starfish,” he said. “We have asked Fisheries to help us with this and they are going to come out to the villages and talk to the people about COTs, the damage they can do and how to get rid of them, which will be a great help.” John Warmington said it was important that tourists, divers and snorkellers received the right message from his fight. “COTs are a Pacific-wide problem and, while they are hard to totally eradicate, they can be beaten back and there are still plenty of wonderful places in Havannah Harbour to dive and snorkel the brilliant, world class reefs,” he said. “And that goes for all of Vanuatu as well. •’’
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G L O R I OU S GAR DE N S
I am lucky to have a river run down one side of my property, so the sound of the river is now an integral part of my life, both day and night. I leave the
Splash Out e r u t a e f r wate
on a
Carolyn Ernst knows what your garden needs – it’s all about sight, sound and smell. A water feature can provide all three and act as the centrepiece of your garden. There are many plants and fish which are happy in garden pools it’s just a matter of making the right choices.
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bathroom door open so the river sounds lulls me to sleep every night.
PICTURES: Carolyn Ernst
A
garden must always satisfy the three S’s: sound, sight and smell. Water is an essential element to any garden. Firstly, it is required for plant growth. Secondly, there is nothing like the smell of a garden after a shower of rain. Thirdly, the sound of water adds the final dimension to every garden. I am lucky to have a river run down one side of my property, so the sound of the river is now an integral part of my life, both day and night. I leave the bathroom door open so the river sounds lulls me to sleep every night. If you don’t have a river or sea to provide this feature naturally to your garden, then there are many ways to incorporate water features into your garden or home, no matter how big or small. Water features come in a zillion forms, big and small, simple and complex, cheap to very expensive, there is one or several out there for you. Depending on your
budget and handyman skills, you can either make them yourself, have them constructed or purchase them ready to go, whatever suits you. I suppose when we first think of water features we all remember the large ponds or lakes found in the parks where we grew up, some with amazing water fountains and often with ducks to feed. These large expanses of water were home to a large range of wildlife and were always great places to go and play. Very few of us can have anything of this size but if you have the room then it is possible to have quite large pools of water in your garden. Your soil structure gives the answer to the cost and ease of which you can do this. If your soil has a high clay content then it might be possible to not have to use a pool lining. You see this in some areas with farm dams, just a matter of digging the desired shape and depth, compacting the clay and filling with water. If you live in an area with soils that do not retain water, like many of us in the Pacific, then you will need to use either a concrete base or buy a pool lining. Concrete can sometimes appear to be the easiest option but with our earthquakes prone areas, you will have to be very careful with the thickness, reinforcing and quality of the concrete used. The other option is to use linings, which come in various forms and prices and you will need to choose the one that best fits your purpose. The range of products available is changing, so even if you think you know what you need, take the time to update yourself with the latest products. There are also quite large price differences between suppliers so this research will also tell you the right place to buy the right product. Remember you get what you pay for, so if you want your pond to last do not skimp on this basic, many of the cheaper options are not UV treated and so will break down quickly and only last a couple of years. Things to think about when planning a water feature, is the size of your property: you want it to be in proportion. The depth of water: this is important for several reasons, some plants like lotus require a reasonable depth of water and in our warm climates the deeper the water the less likely it is to overheat and make it difficult for fish and plants to survive so do the research to find out the best depths for the size of your pool. One other factor you need to consider is, children’s safety, this depends on the size of your water feature and the accessibility and number of children around. You will also need to find out if there are any rules and regulations in your area that govern water safety, as there are in some places, with the legal requirements that you must have in place if you have a swimming pool. Also if you want light features and water fountains, the availability of power is a consideration although there are now many solar operated options available. In the design phase you need to consider the shape, myself, I don’t like sharp corners and prefer sweeping curves but if you have a formal garden, then a square or rectangle or more formal shape may suit your garden better. If you are going for the more natural look then you will need to have varying depths as there are many plants that like growing in
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“Also everyone is different in their expectation of the clarity of the water ... I am not so particular”
the shallows. The balance between temperature and light is important. Too much shade and your water lilies will not flower and some plants like black taro will not colour-up as much as you might want. A little bit of overall shade for some part of the day is ok and if you want you can provide an overhanging rock, or two, to provide not only shade for your fish but also to provide them a place to hide from any predator birds. Once your pool or water feature is built and in place, then comes the really fun part, the selection of plants. There are plants that will suit even some of the smallest water features, just check out what is available to you. If one thinks water, the first thought is water lilies and there are an amazing range of colours and types so you can be sure to find one that suits your climatic situation. There are also lotus and a large selection of other flowering aquatic plants. Next there are your plants for the shallows, a wide range of reeds and rushes, water taros, the list is endless. These come in all shapes, heights and colours so your options are numerous. Try to control yourself, as it is very easy to over-plant your pond. One important thing to remember is if your pond becomes overcrowded and you have to weed out some of the excess growth, please be very careful with disposal of these plants, as in many areas these introduced species have become a huge problem in our local waterways. If you get the right balance of water temperature, light, plant
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and fish life you should not have any issues with algae growth. Over feeding of fish and bird life can upset this balance, and this can become a problem. Also everyone is different in their expectation of the clarity of the water. I have a friend who wants the water to be crystal clear and clean, while I am not so particular. If water clarity becomes an issue then there might be a need to oxygenate the water and/or filter it. Oxygenation of your pond can either be done with a pump that bubbles air into the water or you can achieve the same result by using a fountain. This allows the increase of water to air surface. Water fountains come in a huge range of sizes and shapes, some of the more artistic ones are truly spectacular and can be the centre piece of the whole garden. Just make sure that you get the right size pump for your needs, too big and there might be issues with your fittings or you will spray the water outside of the pond and too small and your spectacular water feature will be nothing but a trickle. Depending on your pool size, filters come in many sizes and forms, you need to do the research and find the right one for you. Now it is time to enjoy your water feature, perhaps at the end of a busy day, sit down and look at the colour and beauty, breath in the scents and listen to sounds of your garden and if you are like me, the taste of your wine. Relax!•
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The warm coastal waters of the Vanuatu archipelago are not only a visitor attraction, but a source of food and livelihood that Ni-Vanuatu people depend on. Green snail, trumpet shells and turtles were once commonly found on reefs but are both vulnerable to overfishing. Green snails graze on marine plants that help to keep coral reefs clean and healthy. It grows slowly and is only able to reproduce at around four years of age. The trumpet shell is a carnivorous shellfish. The largest marine snail in Vanuatu, it is one of the rare predators of the destructive crown-of-thorns starfish. Green snails and trumpet shells are collected by locals for their meat and shells, which are commonly sold to visitors to Vanuatu. Turtles populations in Vanuatu are also in decline, with some species considered to be in danger of extinction. It takes 20 to 50 years for turtles to reach sexual maturity. In Vanuatu, female turtles lay eggs on the beach from September to January each year. Out of 100 eggs laid, only one or two will become adult turtles due to the numerous natural predators. The Vanuatu Department of Fisheries has introduced regulations to protect these marine animals, but we need your support to help eliminate the market for these endangered species. Collection and sale of these species are now banned until 2020 to give the remaining populations sufficient time to rebuild healthy populations. Please refer to section 53 (Green snail), 55 (trumpet shell and 59 (marine turtles) under the Fisheries Regulation Order No. 28 of 2009. Tourists can assist by NOT purchasing ornaments and souvenirs made out of their shells.
Crossword Puzzling questions to while away your holiday. Solution on page 125 ACROSS 1 Traditionally accepted (7) 5 Muscle twitches (6) 9 Zealous (5) 11 Islands near the equator in the Pacific Ocean (8) 13 Large passenger jet (6) 14 Prefix meaning environmental (3) 15 Sheets, towels, etc (5) 16 Best possible (5) 17 Free from anxiety (2,4) 18 Structure providing a place where boats can land people or goods (7) 20 Contributor (5) 22 A rope for tethering animals (6) 23 Calmness (5) 25 Tuna-like fish which is striped like mackerel (6) 26 Exorbitant (5) 29 Thoroughly (2,5) 31 Don’t go out (4,2) 33 Metropolitan (5) 35 Water vapour (5) 37 Female deer (3) 38 Gouda, for example (6) 39 Country in the SW Pacific (8) 40 Compulsions (5) 41 Bearnaise, bechamel, and the like (6) 42 A midshipman of four years’ standing (7) DOWN 1 Staying in a tent (7) 2 See eye to eye (5)
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Cuts in two (7) Hit the books (7) Beat strongly (5) Basket on a bicycle (7) English admiral; duck (5) Point in dispute (5) Australian ‘good’ (5) Soya bean paste (4)
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islandliving | 125 paciямБc
Islandliving pacific
LIVING THE DREAM
Islandliving pacific
SUMMER 201
8/19 | ISSUE 26
The
ISSUE 26
PACIFIC ISLA
ND LIVING | SUM
MER 2018/19
| LIVING THE
DREAM
Shipping News
WE ARE
SAILING FIJI | VANUAT U | SAMOA | KI SOLOMON IS RIBATI LANDS | MAR SHALL ISLAND PLUS FOOD | S BEAUTY | HEAL FASHION TH | GARDEN S
For advertising and distribution enquires contact Rebecca Murphy +64 21 951 342 Sales@photogenicpr.com Australia & NZ, Fiji, Solomon Islands, Vanuatu and Inflight magazines for Nauru Airlines and Samoa Airways
THE PEOPLE:
Behind Your Magazine
Behind the scenes, or should that be the scenery, since we’re in the Pacific, we’re making your mag. TIFFANY CARROLL | Editor Tiffany began her career in journalism at GTV 9 in Melbourne before switching to print media with Rural Press newspapers in NSW. Later she joined the private office of the Premier of Victoria as Press Secretary in the second term of the Kennett Government. She has been editing Air Vanuatu’s inflight magazine Island Spirit for seven years as well as Pacific Island Living and The Essential Vanuatu. NICOLE BROWN | Art Director Nicole has worked as a senior designer in many areas of publishing prior to becoming immersed in island life on both Pacific Island Living, Malaga and Island Spirit. Nic’s a graduate in graphic design with an advanced diploma to her name as well as a string of consumer magazine design credits. . GEORGIE GORDON | Features Editor Georgie’s university studies in communications, journalism and publishing were followed by a successful career in advertising. Georgie now spends much of her time writing about the things she has a passion for, design, food, travel, books, health and beauty. She now resides part time in the region allowing her to pursue her enthusiasm for promoting the pleasures of the Pacific CHRISTIANA KALUSCHA | Food Editor Christiana studied languages and economics at Cologne University before taking up the life of a sea gypsy, sailing the Mediterranean from Spain to Turkey and onwards around the world. Fluent in several languages plus the language of food, Christiana now runs the exclusive boutique B+B, Sarangkita, on the beachfront outside of Port Vila from where she also conducts cooking tours and classes as the creator of Vanuatu Food Safari. OLIVIA WAUGH | Fashion + Style Editor Olivia Waugh is a highly regarded fashion stylist with a career in both retail and editorial. She has been Fashion Editor for
the top-selling Australian weekly Woman’s Day and Fashion Director of the glossy monthly SHOP TIL YOU DROP. She is currently freelancing for a variety of Australia’s top magazines and manufacturers as well as island-hopping CAROLYN ERNST | Gardening Editor Carolyn Ernst is a passionate gardener and farmer. Originally from New Zealand, Carolyn has called the Pacific home for well over 25 years. She is a married mother of four children and two grandchildren and operates Eden on the River - an outdoor adventure and garden experience in Port Vila. PAT INGRAM | Editorial Director Pat Ingram has a long and passionate association with magazines. She edited Australian Cosmopolitan and Harper’s Bazaar before her 10-year stint as Publishing Director for ACP Magazines’ 16 women’s titles including Woman’s Day and The Australian Women’s Weekly. She currently works as a publishing consultant and editorial director for Fairfax Media. She is a resident of Vanuatu and dreams of spending most of the year there. CRAIG OSMENT | Publisher Craig has over thirty years’ experience as an independent publisher of consumer magazines, books and trade titles. Originally a graphic designer, he was art director of Australian Cosmopolitan, The Bulletin and POL magazines. Now a Vanuatu resident he is also the publisher of Island Spirit, the Air Vanuatu in-flight magazine and The Essential Vanuatu. REBECCA MURPHY | Advertising Director Rebecca is another exile from New Zealand but has spent the past 17 years travelling extensively through Europe and the Pacific so is thoroughly acclimatised to our region. She lived in PNG and Vanuatu before moving to Suva and is a media junkie having worked in print and radio for ten years. She loves anything to do with fashion, style and travel and claims to be an ‘all round exceptional person’ and we have to agree.
islandliving | 127 pacific
PAR AV ION
Welcome Aboard Keeping up with jargon, neologisms, managerial speak, politically correct nomenclature, gender-correct terminology and crisis control euphemisms has the gender-normative identifying Toby Preston feeling more than a little ‘challenged’.
I
recently subscribed to a British newspaper and received an email welcoming me to their ‘community’; they assured me that this correspondence was part of my ‘onboarding journey’. I thought it might have been from a travel agent about a forthcoming cruise. But no, we’re all on a journey now, few of which require a passport, we’re off seeking mindfulness, or possibly a journey of grief, love, loss, motherhood, cake decorating or worse, a terminal illness. Not that people die any more, they ‘pass’. I suppose passing is another sort journey, there are so many places ‘to die for’ maybe we should all ‘onboard’ immediately. A lot of this contemporary managerial terminology is exhaustingly physical and proactive, I know that a little while ago some of us were pushing the envelope or moving goalposts or touching base or climbing outside of the box to do some thinking. But mostly in those days we were just sitting at our desk waiting for lunchtime. In the current climate of inclusiveness we’re all enthusiastic, engaged team members who are expected to lean in and push back, then doubledown before pivoting so that we’re customer facing, while driving brand awareness. It’s all about enhancing the client experience by offering granular solutions before accelerating change and ultimately reaching out going forward! Mission (critical) accomplished. What we no longer have though, are problems, predicaments or obstacles – we now have issues and challenges. These can range in seriousness from a minor complication to a major catastrophe, from chipped nail varnish to a nuclear power station meltdown, the total collapse of a company’s reputation or a little customer remediation over a hair in someone’s soup. Whatever the challenge, there’s always a trusty public relations company out there which has a crisis management solution. The solution is usually a bromidic press release which promises an ‘enterprise-wide cultural audit conducted by an external consultant’ this is good for avaricious banks after having ripped off their valued customers for millions of dollars or a bit of inappropriate fondling of the junior female staff out the back of the cake shop. A ‘cultural audit’ will remedy any unforeseen issues. After the recent travails of one Australia’s leading financial institutions the departing CEO suggested that he understood that the shareholders and stakeholders wanted answers so he declared that ‘we want to address your questions head on, so we can move forward’ in order ‘to lift the company out of its current challenges’ and accelerate change. He acknowledged that the bank was early in its journey and would need to continue to inform and challenge
128 | Islandliving pacific
themselves while putting in place innovations that are underpinned by their ‘human-centred design approach’ and that disruptive thinking was an essential ingredient in the drive to deliver their ambitions. Finally he declared reassuringly that they are ‘well advanced with an enterprise-wide risk culture review’ and that the company ‘is building a practice management and customer relationship management solution’ for their advisers. Well, while their self abnegation wasn’t in doubt I wish I knew what the fix was going to be ‘going forward’ since I’m not sure if the statement actually did ‘address questions head on’, at least not in any syntax that I understand. I suppose the entire point of euphemism is to confound and confuse while astroturfing over unpleasant facts or ‘challenging’ situations. The problem is that we all recognise a patronising euphemism for what it is, so as soon as we’re in on the joke it’s promptly changed so that we run out of single words for our physical or mental shortcomings. For example ‘blind’ became visually impaired and now, a person who has low vision. The very people who gave us the original batch of ‘inclusive’ terms now tell us that ‘nice terms such as intellectually challenged, differently abled, physically challenged are a denial of reality’. Unless we were a person with an intellectual or developmental disability most of us had already come to that conclusion. I recently experienced my own temporary challenging situation when I became less-than-ambulatory and had to rely on a walking stick to get around. Although crippled, I knew I wasn’t a cripple, I knew I was no longer a ‘person without disability’ but I was very definitely a person with a very lame leg who needed ‘accessible parking’, I had become a ‘person with lived experience of disability’. I didn’t have an affliction I was having an ‘experience’. Well who would have known? Of course the other famously fertile source of the most egregious double-speak is what was once known as the personnel industry, they first up renamed themselves as human resources then re-branded again as human capital managers or the talent management team who seek out human capital with core competencies. Providing you are seen to be someone who fits their diversity and inclusion template you may be offered the opportunity to engage with an organisation in a stakeholder relationship (given a job!). But beware the performance management review because you may end up with the offer of a career change opportunity or involuntary separation to enable a workforce imbalance correction – you’re fired, as the Donald would say. •
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