Islandliving pacifi c from the editor
WINTER 2016 | ISSUE 16
Hit Thoene
N
Chill-Out Z
ext issue, we will be celebrating four years of Pacific Island Living. We started this magazine for Pacific people – to find, review and recommend things to see and do, and ultimately, buy. We are proudly an aspirational magazine, we want our readers to sit back and indulge just as much as we want to tell the world how great the Pacific really is. From Georgie Gordon’s health and beauty columns, to Carolyn Ernst’s gardening tips, we hope you agree Pacific Island Living has something for everyone. In four years our market has grown from Vanuatu and Nauru Airlines to cover most of the Pacific. We’re particularly proud of our market share in Fiji and the Solomon Islands as well as our distribution in Australia through Qantas Club lounges. As I write this column I’m in Fiji, having just flown in from Vanuatu. Next month it will be Nauru then the Sollies. Pacific Island Living truly is a Pacific magazine and we’re so pleased you have enjoyed it and helped its growth over the last four years. Please do keep in touch via our website, Facebook page, Instagram or Twitter. Happy reading. Tiffany Carroll
Truk Lagoon
DIVING ADVENTURE
Queenstown
SOUTH ISLAND JEWEL
Fashion Flash HOLIDAY STYLE
Find us on Facebook
www.facebook.com/pacificislandliving, Twitter
Fiji & Vanuatu RESORT REPORT
@PacIsLiving
Pacific Pulse
and Instagram at instagram.com/pacisliving or read this and all our magazines online at www.pacific-island-living. com Cover images - Fiji Island Living courtesy Adrenalin Fiji; Solomon Island Living, by David Kirkland; Nauru Airlines Cover courtesy Nautilus Resort, Kosrae; Vanuatu cover courtesy Pavol Stranák.
NEWS+VIEWS RESORTS+REAL ESTATE
Copyright: All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the ISSN 2200-9566 publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu 03 Tourism Office or Pacific Island Living.
9 772200 956005
Plus
FOOD+HEALTH+MORE islandliving | 1 pacific
1 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
from the editor
T
hey say time flies when you’re having fun; well I must have been for the last four years because it feels just like yesterday we started this magazine. I am so proud of its growth, of our team and what we have done to help promote some of the Pacific’s lesser known islands to the world. Welcome to our fourth anniversary issue. In it we have a fantastic story from Chuuk, Micronesia by photographer and blogger Mike Gerken – if you’ve ever dived or wanted to, his story and photos will have you racing to book your next underwater adventure. We also take a look at the region’s best resorts and restaurants, offer tips for gardening, cooking and investment as well as some inspiration for those of us decorating. Our advertising director Rebecca Worsp has offered her hand at writing this issue too, with an interview with former Australian of the Year and HPV vaccine developer Professor Ian Frazer in our Pacific Pulse section. For now I’d like to thank you our readers for helping our magazine grow so much and so quickly and also say a special thank you to our publisher, the world’s most patient man who knows just when to give in when an all-female staff gang up on him, Mr. Craig Osment. Without him, there would be no Pacific Island Living. Happy reading.
Tiffany Carroll
Find us on Facebook and Instagram
www.facebook.com/pacificislandliving, Twitter
@PacIsLiving
at instagram.com/pacisliving or
read this and all our magazines online at www.pacificislandliving.com Copyright: All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu Tourism Office or Pacific Island Living.
islandliving | 1 pacific
Pacific Island Living No 16 | Winter 2016 EDITOR Tiffany Carroll Email: tcarroll@photogenicpr.com ART DIRECTOR Tanya Green FEATURES EDITOR Georgie Gordon FASHION + STYLE EDITOR Olivia Waugh FOOD EDITOR Christiana Kaluscha GARDENING EDITOR Carolyn Ernst CONTRIBUTORS Toby Preston, Craig Osment, Pat Ingram, Carolyn Ernst, Christiana Kaluscha, Gayle Stapleton, Fiona Marston, Tiffany Carroll, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu Tourism Office, Keri Algar, Mike Gerken, Tatyana Leonov, SIVB, Nautilus Resort FSM, Leith Campbell, Rebecca Worsp, EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Pat Ingram PUBLISHER: Craig Osment ADVERTISING INQUIRIES Rebecca Worsp: Advertising Director Fiji | Vanuatu | Nauru Telephone: (678) 778 0005 Email: sales@photogenicpr.com Honiara: Bronwyn Norris Telephone: (677) 7456066 Email: features@photogenicpr.com Pacific Island Living, is published quarterly by Photogenic Limited Fax (678) 23 402 | PO Box 322 Port Vila, Vanuatu Printed by APOL Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/pacificislandliving, Twitter
@PacIsLiving
and Instagram
at instagram.com/pacisliving
Or read this and all our magazines online at www.pacific-island-living.com. COPYRIGHT All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji or Pacific Island Living.
2 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
ELEGANCE | QUALITY | STYLE
ARTISAN JEWELLERS SINCE 1981
Visit our Showroom and Sales Office at Nambatu Area. For personal shopping please call +678 776 8750. Email: sales@vanuatubijouterie.com Vanuatu Bijouterie - Fine Jewellery
islandliving | 3 pacific
0
The perfect way to enjoy winter sun, go topless in an Alfa Romeo Spider 4C. See more artistically tempting automobiles on page 14.
8
11
13
CONTENTS 016 Winter 2
BEACHCOMBER This issue we feature the much anticipated new resort, Taumeasina Island in Samoa along with organic Fijian cosmetics, designer thongs and a self-indulgent birthday tribute to ... well, us!
28
BOOK LOOK Georgie Gordon’s cosmopolitan literary mix from across the globe. Read your way around the world.
36
14
PACIFIC PULSE Our roundup of Pacific happenings. We sit down with Professor Ian Frazer and talk to Miss Nauru about her plans to participate in the Miss Pacific Islands pageant in Samoa later this year
4 | Islandliving pacific
FASHION FLASH – PACK PERFECT Fashion editor Olivia Waugh gets ready for a Pacific holiday with advice on what to pack for the perfect getaway.
42
FEDERATED STATES OF MICRONESIA 72 years after Operation Hailstone, tranquility has returned to Truk Lagoon, where diving is therapy writes Mike Gerken who has been exploring, photographing and diving in the area for ten years.
ART SMART – AUTO ART Toby Preston luxuriates in an exploration of some of the best metal the world has ever put on wheels, if cars aren’t your thing, look away but plenty of us love a good piece mobile sculpture.
20
Olivia Waugh takes a look at storage solutions, things to sit in or on, bright ideas and a other goodies for the home.
NET ASSETS We’ve trawled the internet for some interesting practical sites to make your life easier. Get clicking.
STYLE+DÉCOR – AROUND THE HOUSE
50
YAT 09.
ABODE – INSIDE OUT The demarcation between our home’s interior and exterior spaces has become increasingly blurred says Toby Preston who steps outside to take a look at what’s on offer in al fresco living. Great examples in Vanuatu and Fiji here.
OUT 06.
03.03.16 10:33AM
05.03.16 12:36PM
PLANTATION ISLAND RESORT 08.03.16 08:33PM
LAGOON RESORT 08.03.16 03:54PM
PLANTATION ISLAND RESORT 03.03.16 03:16PM
RIVER SAFARI 08.03.16 09:26AM
HOTEL INTERCONTINENTAL 03.03.16 09:43AM MUSKET COVE RESORT 2.03.16 10:55AM
RIVER SAFARI 03.03.16 10:47AM MAUI BAY 07.03.16 01:29PM
THE HILTON 9. 12.03.16 06:38AM MUSKET COVE RESORT 04.03.16 08:34PM
TAVEUNI ISLAND 06.03.16 12:17PM
CORAL REEF 7.03.16 02:02PM SILANA VILLAGE 08.03.16 02:07PM
TAVORO WATERFALLS 08.03.16 01:12PM
MATAMANOA ISLAND RESORT 06.03.16 03:30PM
THIS IS #FIJINOW
TULE RESORT & SPA .03.16 04:48PM
TROPICA RESORT 03.03.16 11:33AM
Right now see your local travel agent for unbelievable deals.
www.fiji.travel
MATAMANOA ISLAND RESORT 06.03.16 03:19PM
SOFITEL RESORT & SPA 08.03.16 05:10PM
TROPICA RESORT 02.03.16 04:46PM RIVER SAFARI 08.03.16 02:05PM
SHANGRI-LA FLYBOARDING 05.03.16 11.50AM
TROPICA RESORT 02.03.16 02:18PM
SOFITEL RESORT & SPA 03.03.16 03:25PM
RIVER SAFARI 08.03.16 12:00PM
TRIGGER BEACH RESORT .03.16 03:27PM
TROPICA ISLAND RESORT 11.03.16 5:26PM TAVEUNI ISLAND 6.3.16 11:10AM
islandliving | 5 paciямБc
56
MICRONESIA – A DAY IN POHNPEI Keri Algar sets off to explore one of the wettest islands in the world but is delighted by the lush landscape and a surprise unnatural wonder.
60
BEAUTY – SO FRENCHY SO CHIC French women are renowned for casual and insouciant elegance. Georgie Gordon delves into Christine Calais’s guide to achieving the perfect complexion Francais across the decades.
69
RESORT REPORT Some of our favourite places to stay, relax and enjoy. This time we visit Vanuatu’s much-awarded Havannah on Samoa Point in Havannah Harbour, Fiji’s Naisoso Island Resort Villas and Vanuatu’s Narawan retreat.
74
FOOD – CABBAGE ADAGE Christiana Kaluscha unfurls the leaves of her favourite green vegetable and creates an array of tasty tropical treats from the local versions of the brassica family.
80
HEALTH – BAD HABITS Just say NO! Georgie Gordon claims you don’t have to be captive to bad habits whatever they may be, here’s help in overcoming them.
83
DINING OUT – FOUR OF THE BEST We check out some old favourites with recently revived menus and a newcomer to the restaurant scene.
88
GARDENS – AFTER THE RAIN Gardening editor, Carolyn Ernst welcomes the rain and advises on how garden restoration can be made easier after cyclone damage and a dry spell.
94
QUEENSTOWN – LAKESIDE LAPIDARY It’s not known as New Zealand’s ‘jewel in the crown’ for nothing. Craig Osment revisits this little gem of an alpine village and finds things better than ever.
101 BUY IN – INTERNATIONAL PURCHASES Gayle Stapleton suggests that consulting a broker when buying offshore is the best advice, they know the local legal requirements and can ease the way.
104 FORE! Fiji is set to host another round of the PGA Tour of Australasia and it’s attracting plenty of interest.
111 THE PEOPLE BEHIND YOUR MAGAZINE Top: Step outside for a moment ... and appreciate what living outdoors can add to your lifestyle, page 50. Middle: Queenstown is New Zealand’s self-proclaimed adventure centre but it’s also a foodie paradise, page 94. Bottom: Diving the Truk Lagoon in Micronesia, page 42.
6 | Islandliving pacific
The behind-the-scene scene, who makes your magazine every issue, contributors and staff details.
116 PAR AVION Toby Preston comes across some culinary curiosities that even an intrepid omnivore might baulk at. Food fashion evolves in strange ways.
Find Us on Denarau Island. Book at your Resort / Hotel Tour Desk T: 675 1288 E: info@adrenalinfiji.com
www.adrenalinfiji.com
islandliving | 7 paciďŹ c
Beachcomber Every issue we bring you the news, views, people, products and places from all around the Pacific.
LUXURY COMES TO SAMOA Preparations for the much anticipated Taumeasina Island Resort in Samoa are starting to speed up with the resort opening its doors this month. The four and half star resort is situated on its own private island, accessible via a causeway, this establishment will be a huge addition to the Samoan accommodation offering. The resort consists of 80 oceanview hotel rooms and 25 two and three-bedroom waterfront villas with fully self contained facilities. Taumeasina Island Resort will cater to couples, families travelling together and the business and MICE (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions and Exhibitions) market. The resort will feature two private beaches, a cascading resort pool, fine dining and casual restaurants, lobby bar,
sunset bar overlooking the ocean, day spa and a number of venue options for wedding ceremonies. For the more active guests the resort offers snorkeling, kayaking catamarans, tennis court and beach volley ball equipment. Taumeasina Island Resort is not only an amazing holiday destination, but with state of the art conference facilities, business centre and meeting spaces perfect for business groups. It is the ideal location to host conferences and; catering for groups of ten to five hundred and fifty. The Island boasts views of the beautiful turquoise lagoon and Pacific Ocean, as well as the lush mountainside of Upolu island. For luxury, flexibility and a vacation everyone will remember, its hard to look past Taumeasina Island Resort.
PACIFIC PANACEAS The man who introduced the world to Fiji Water is at it again with his range of Wakaya Perfection products. Canadian-born David Gilmour the creator of the Fijian private island resort Wakaya Club and Spa, a 2,200-acre tropical island which has hosted any number of happy travellers and international celebrities.
The suite of Perfection products includes body scrubs, tea, kava, gourmet popcorn, face creams, sun protection crème and a cookbook for ginger lovers. The essential ingredients for these products are sourced locally and are the purest available, in many cases there is just a single ingredient per product. The company claims “We grow ginger and turmeric in seven million-year-old nutrient-rich volcanic soil in our pristine 2200-acre paradise. There are no additives. No substitutes. ” The ginger is a natural antioxidant and harvested by hand from the heart of the root, while the turmeric is a natural antiinflammatory that soothes the stomach and detoxes the liver, and the kava claims to ease insomnia, anxiety, depression and menopausal symptoms. The perfect trio for holiday health. For online orders and more on the complete range see: www. wakayaperfection.com.
8 | Islandliving pacific
Beachcomber And if you have anything that’s worth knowing about, get in touch and let us in on the secret. FOUR YEARS OLD AND NOW IN NEW ZEALAND This issue we celebrate four years of Pacific Island Living. In that short time, we have grown from a magazine for expats and locals living in Vanuatu to a truly regional holiday and lifestyle magazine. We are now printed in five distinct editions – one each for Vanuatu, Fiji, Solomon Islands, Nauru Airlines and Micronesia and a retail edition for Australia, and now New Zealand. This issue will see our distribution take a huge leap forward with the
islandliving pacific
winter 2016 | iSSue 16
Hit The
Chill-Out Zone Truk Lagoon
diving adventure PaCifiC iSland living | winter 2016 | living the dream
Queenstown
South iSland Jewel
Fashion Flash holiday Style
Fiji & Vanuatu reSort rePort
Pacific Pulse
newS+viewS reSortS+real eState
Plus
iSSue 16
addition of the Kiwis to our market. Thanks to our distributors, we’re now available in 100 hotels in New Zealand and selected airport lounges, as well as the Emperor Lounge at Auckland Airport. Add to that our all new website which features every page of every edition online as well as news and reviews, products and competitions for the Pacific. We also have plans to expand in to Samoa shortly, so please check our website for updates and your chance to win another fabulous South Pacific holiday to celebrate our fourth anniversary. From all of us at Pacific Island Living, Craig Osment (publisher), Pat Ingram (editorial director), Olivia Waugh (fashion editor), Georgie Gordon (features editor), Gayle Stapleton (finance writer), Carolyn Ernst (gardening editor), Christiana Kaluscha (food editor), Rebecca Worsp (advertising director), Bronwyn Norris (Honiara representative), Ludovic Kelly (distribution, Vanuatu), Josua Tuisoro (distribution, Fiji) and all our freelance writers, we say thank you for four wonderful years of support and growth. We look forward to bringing you many more editions from more amazing countries across the Pacific. Thanks again. –Tiffany Carroll, editor.
food+health+more
TOP FLIP FLOPS The combination of the words Brazilian and thongs may bring to mind female grooming and skimpy underwear in some places but if you think flip flops and the country of origin then you’ll think Havaianas, the world’s style leader in rubber footwear. The brand has just taken a step into the world of haute couture by teaming up with iconic British shoe designer Charlotte Olympia who has come up with a signature range of three unique new designs. They feature her much loved characters Kitty, ‘Bruce’ the leopard and Charlotte’s web. Kitty Havaianas (left) are black and slim with a light gold metallic Kitty face and contrasting gold strap, ‘purrfect for strolling along the beach says Charlotte Olympia Della, creative director of Charlotte Olympia. The other two designs are Bruce Havaianas featuring the leopard mascot, while the Charlotte’s Web version is embellished with a repeat web pattern on the sole. Available from www.charlotteolympia.com
islandliving | 9 pacific
Cardo s STEAKHOUSE & COCKTAIL BAR Port Denarau, Fiji
Open for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner - Go where the locals go!
Port Denarau Marina Complex, FIJI Phone (+679) 675 0900 Web www.cardosfiji.com 10 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
Book look: Cosmoplitan Mix Georgie Gordon’s international selection ranges across many exotic locations. THE PHOTOGRAPHERS WIFE by Suzanne Joinson Set in Jerusalem in 1920, elevenyear-old Prudence feels the tension as her architect father launches a plan to import English parks to the Holy City. She is also aware of the attraction between British pilot, William Harrington, hired to take aerial photographs and Eleanora, the wife of a famous Jerusalem photographer who as a nationalist, is intent on removing the British. The Photographer’s Wife is a powerful story of betrayal: between father and daughter, between husband and wife, and between nations and people, set in the complex period between the two world wars. Published by Bloomsbury.
THIS MUST BE THE PLACE by Maggie O’Farrell The latest novel from The Sunday Times’s bestselling author is a dazzling intimate epic about who we leave behind and who we become as we search for our place in the world. Daniel Sullivan has a complicated life, a New Yorker living in Ireland he has children he never sees in California, a father he loathes in Brooklyn and a wife, Claudette who is a reclusive ex-film star given to shooting at anyone who comes up their driveway. Crossing continents and time zones This Must Be the Place is a portrait of a marriage, the forces that hold it together and the pressures that drive it apart. Published by Hachette
THE VANISHED by Lotte and Søren Hammer The third in the international bestselling five-part Detective Superintendent Konrad Simonsen series. A postman is found dead lying at the bottom of his apartment stairs in what appears to be a tragic accident however when life-sized images of a missing girl are discovered plastering the walls of his attic, the case takes a new and sinister turn. You needn’t have read the first two instalments to enjoy The Vanished but this latest thriller from the Hammer siblings will likely have you racing back to catch up on the engrossing Konrad Simonsen series. Published by Bloomsbury.
FAREWELL TO THE FATHER by Timothy Elliot An outstandingly powerful memoir that chronicles a son’s coming to terms with his father’s decline into madness. Tim Elliot’s father Max suffered from a bi-polar condition that got steadily worse as Tim grew into his teenage years. A charming, charismatic, well-respected doctor by day, Max Elliott turned into a roaring, raging madman at home. This is the story of growing up with a parent with mental illness and the lengths children will go to protect their families from shame, themselves and each other from harm. Published by MacMillan.
A FRENCH WEDDING by Hannah Tunnicliffe If you’re looking for pure escapism get lost between the pages of this captivating love story, set over one long weekend. Max is turning forty. All he wants for his birthday is for his six oldest friends to come to France to eat, dance, drink and laugh together. And to finally declare his secret, undying love for his best friend, Helen. A French Wedding is a novel filled with love, lies, fights, friendship and feasts. Published by MacMillian.
LITTLE WARRIOR by Giuseppe Catozella A heartbreaking and uplifting novel about a Somali girl who is willing to sacrifice everything to fulfil her dream of becoming a champion runner, this inspiring tale is based on the incredible true story of Samia Omar. Winner of the Premio Strega Giovani Prize in Italy and sold in over a dozen languages around the world, Little Warrior is a timely and moving story about war, family and hope. Published by Faber.
islandliving | 11 pacific
12 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
Net assets: Practicalities From the step by step info for those into DIY to information on taxidermy and pronunciation, Georgie Gordon trawls some of the web’s best utilitarian and inspirational sites. ETSY There’s real trend towards craft at the moment whether it be for interiors or as a hobby, macramé, pottery, and artisan everything are enjoying a resurgence. Nothing demonstrates this better than the booming homemade marketplace that is Etsy. A place where anyone can create an online store to sell their wares, Etsy is great if you are looking for a personalised gift, or something a bit left of centre to finish a room, for greeting cards or interesting jewellery. It’s an especially good site for the event planner for sourcing less expensive decorations and monogrammed party favours. etsy.com
GOOGLE NIGHT WALK Teleport yourself to the streets of Marseille, France in this immersing tour of Cours Julien – a neighbourhood known for its creative atmosphere and street art. Narrator, artist Cristophe takes us on a virtual stroll to experience the sights and sounds as if you were really there using Google’s high tech Street View technology. Have Cristophe lead the way or sneak off on your own ‘walking path’ to discover your own experience. This site was created to encourage others to map out night walks of their own around the world. nightwalk.withgoogle.com
FORVO Great for the pedants among us, this website tells you how to pronounce any word, in the world. From sports player’s names to fictional characters in Game of Thrones to the correct pronunciation of Scottish places just type it in the pronunciation dictionary and be enlightened. There’s also a Listen & Learn section where you can watch videos on topics such as ‘words with silent letters and syllables’ and ‘the differences between British and American ‘R’ sound’. Or just focus on one language, perfect for brushing up on your pronunciation before travelling. forvo.com
THINGA The struggle is real for parents these days trying to protect their kids from the big bad realities of the internet. Thinga is a child friendly search engine which filters out all the inappropriate content so you don’t have to. A Google search can bring up all sorts of unseemly click bait for your child but Thinga keeps it clean. It also has fun suggested searches for kids and lots of funny videos for them to watch. thinga.com
SNAPGUIDE This website calls itself ‘A place for makers’ and whatever it is you fancy making it has a step by step guide on the best way to do it. Whether you love a bit of DIY or just need to know how to set up your stereo system this is a great how-to site. For example the arts and crafts section has great projects to do with the kids on a rainy day and the beauty section gives you guidance on anything from hairbraiding to Halloween make-up ideas. There’s also an App for fast referencing on your smart phone. snapguide.com
WE HEART If you love design, travel, art and culture you’ll heart this online magazine. We Heart trawls the world for the most interesting and beautiful stuff to be found and curates it here. Browse The Edit for articles on Norman Parkinson’s game changing fashion photography or a picture essay on creative ceramics. Go to City Notes for insider’s guides to London, Barcelona and New York. Or peruse The Journal for inspiring articles on taxidermy and foraging. Their Instagram account is worth a follow too. we-heart.com
islandliving | 13 pacific
art smart
Auto Art s n o i t a e riage Cr
Car
T
he birth of the modern car is attributed to Karl Benz in 1886 at which time he produced the first petrol-driven motor vehicle. He also made several identical copies so he is also considered to be the first manufacturer of ‘production’ cars. Prior to this there were a few examples of steam driven machinery none of which came to anything. Karl, with the familiar surname was the founder of the still flourishing Mercedes Benz. Indeed Germany was home to a clutch of automotive pioneers including Rudolf Diesel who invented the … diesel engine, and Nikolaus Otto who created the four-stroke internal combustion engine. While, amazingly, Christian Friedrich Schönbein (a Swiss/ German) invented the fuel cell in 1838. So it’s no wonder, with those credentials, the Germans have comprehensively cornered a large portion of the car market and continue to innovate to this day. They may have been outstanding engineers but when it comes to design it’s the Italians who win hearts and minds for their commitment to cars made with passion and as objects of beauty. Think Ferrari, Maserati, Alfa Romeo, Lancia and Lamborghini. All these manufacturers continue to create mobile sculptures. And the likes of Michelotti, Giugiaro, Spada, Bertone, Frua and others lent their skills to the Germans too. Although Italian design houses and
14 | Islandliving pacific
If cars aren’t your ‘thing’ then we suggest you look away now as Toby Preston gets a little worked up about the allure of the auto. The art of automobile design continues in spite of regulation and safety constraints, the car can be, and is still a thing of beauty and admired by many simply for its looks.
Above: The Alfa Romeo 4C coupe designed by Lorenzo Ramaciotti. Right: Late 50s Buick Invicta poster. Opposite page: Above centre: Porsche makes a splash; far right: The Citroën DS Pallas, ahead of its time in 1974; below centre: 1934 Pierce-Arrow; far right: Big smile from a 1949 Buick.
Above: All American classic, 1960 Cheverolet Corvette – celebrated in song and celluloid and loved the world over, a true auto icon.
islandliving | 15 pacific
Above: Above: British British design design at at its its best, best, the the E-Type E-Type Jaguar Jaguar designed designed by by Malcolm Malcolm Sayer Sayer in in 1961. 1961. Above Above right: right: Steve Steve McQueen, McQueen, the the ‘King ‘King of of Cool’ Cool’ The Orient calls all aboard while the Barrier Reef promises sun, sand and fish, from the twenties to the fifties, travel was a more glamorous
did his own stunt driving in Bullitt and raced Porsches.
carroozzeria (coachbuilders) from Pininfarina to Ghia have been contracted by manufacturers around the world to design everything from Ferraris to some very prosaic Chinese and Korean family hatchbacks In the past the French were responsible for some of the most stunning cars ever built, think Bugatti, Delage, Delahaye, Hispano-Suiza (originally Spanish but mostly built in France), Avions Voisin and the more recent Citroën DS. But it is probably America where car design shaped a nation’s image of itself like no other. The car is so intrinsic to American life as an everyday object yet maintains an iconic status in the country’s culture, it came to be identified with youth, freedom, style and sophistication and emblematic of American life. Think Corvette, Route 66, road movies, Mustang, Thunderbird, Ford as a pioneering manufacturer, Cadillac as a symbol of luxury and excess, fins and hot rods, SUV’s and Hummer and you get some idea of just how influential car art is in the American psyche. And it remains the home of the car art enthusiast with galleries and blog sites dedicated to the worship of the car as a symbol of industrial design. Having said that the British car industry while having
enjoyed a patchy reputation for reliability and industrial unrest has produced some of the world’s great cars, apart from Rolls Royce and Bentley as the ultimate items of automotive opulence, they can claim some of the greatest car designs of all time. The E-Type Jaguar designed by Malcolm Sayer remains as one of the most gorgeous combinations of metal and glass ever designed. While Aston Martin, Austin Healey, Mini, Lotus, McLaren, Range Rover among others were created by some of the world’s most talented designers like Ian Callum, Sir Alec Issigonis, Colin Chapman and Gordon Murray. So while designing a car in these days of safety regulation and fuel efficiency rules may have somewhat restricted what a car designer might ultimately produce, within those constraints design teams are still creating amazing and beautiful cars that ignite passions and tug at the emotions of car buyers who are looking for something more than mere transport between A and B. People who’d happily put a Ferrari on a plinth in their lounge room just to admire it as a piece of sculpture – and yes I do know a man who did just that, and on a floor high up in a city apartment block! A dedicated car design aficionado.•
Middle row: opposite page from left: La Ferrari, enough said!; middle: A modified Ford Thunderbird circa 1962; right: Small and unassuming but beautifully recreated, the current Fiat 500. Bottom row: Classic Buick convertible; centre: Watercolour rendition of rusty Chevy; left: Art Deco two wheeler, 1930 Henderson KJ Streamline from America.
FREEHOLD OWNERSHIP AT FIJI’S MOST EXCLUSIVE BEACH On Fiji’s most desirable beach is a sanctuary for the discriminating few, and your opportunity to create a very private oceanfront residence enhanced by the services and amenities of Fiji’s preeminent luxury destination — Nanuku Auberge Resort. As a homeowner, you will enjoy full access to the resort and Auberge services in residence, as well as the opportunity to enhance your investment by entering your property into the resort’s rental program. Property management and a worldwide home exchange are also available through Auberge.
Please enquire about Real Estate Discovery Visit packages at preferred rates. Nanuku lies on three tranquil coves of Viti Levu's Coral Coast, placing you minutes from Pacific Harbour (known as "The Adventure Capital of Fiji"). 18 | Islandliving pacific
Homesites from USD $399,000. Turnkey villas from USD $500,000. INTERNATIONAL: +679 345 2110 NEW ZEALAND: 0800 OWN FIJI AUSTRALIA: 1800 BUY FIJI UNITED STATES: 1-844-OWN-FIJI NANUKUFIJI.COM REALESTATE@NANUKUFIJI.COM islandliving | 19 paciямБc
Pacific Pulse Rebecca Worsp sat down with Professor Ian Frazer, the man saving lives across the world. VACCINE PROGRAM FOR VANUATU GIRLS Meeting Professor Ian Frazer, known as ‘the man that saved a million lives’, honestly felt a little daunting. To be able to step in to the world of a person that has had such a huge impact on women’s health on a global scale was unquestionably an honour and privilege. Professor Ian Frazer, a regular visitor to Vanuatu is implementing two life changing programs to better women’s health – HPV vaccination for girls and HPV cervical screening for women. His end goal for Vanuatu is to reduce cervical cancer by vaccinating young girls and screening women for precancer to enable early treatment and cure. Professor Frazer invented the Human Papilloma Virus (HPV) vaccine that protects against four HPV strains responsible for 70% of cervical cancers. An Australian of the Year recipient, Professor Frazer has received numerous awards for developing the technology for the vaccine. The wide-ranging awareness the awards generated was more humbling than receiving any award, he said. “You can make a difference through the research you are doing, (knowing) that it does have an impact and its raised awareness of medical research in Australia, that’s a good thing,” he modestly said. “Medical research and health programs ensure we are investing in our future. If we can all think about putting money into these organisations we will ensure the betterment of our children’s future,” he claims. “Obviously a healthier community is a more productive and happier community”. Professor Frazer said as a close neighbour to Australia, it made sense to begin the pilot program in Vanuatu. He was alarmed to find in Vanuatu the
20 | Islandliving pacific
Professor Frazer with patients in Vanuatu, administering the HPV vaccine. numbers of cervical cancer cases were so high. “The incidence of the disease is as higher in Vanuatu than almost anywhere else in the world, much higher than Australia, Europe and America.” The need to help here became very apparent through the cervical cancer screening program that was initiated by the Australian Cervical Cancer Foundation. The relevance to Vanuatu is enormous; it wasn’t a random chance that Vanuatu was the pilot for the vaccination program, a screening program had been carried in 2008 and the results were alarming. One in a 100 healthy women in Vanuatu will develop cervical cancer, Professor Frazer says the problem in the developing world for the virus is far higher than the developed world. “Awareness can be achieved relatively easily through schools,” he said. At present the vaccination program is being run in schools throughout the country, additionally, vaccines are also being administered to young women at ‘catch up’ clinics. Professor Frazer lives in hope it will get to a stage when all parents will know they
can immunize their daughters against the virus that causes cervical cancer, that it’s nothing to be afraid of, which here in Vanuatu can be the biggest battle. “Whoever is trusted within the community is the person that should be trusted with getting that information out,” he said. “There is also the issue of lack of information cascading down from leaders to their respective communities in a way that will encourage parents to vaccinate.” Professor Frazer said the program will run for five years and with the support of the Vanuatu Government he hopes to ensure it becomes a routine vaccine administered to all girls. “The vaccine has been available in Australia for eight years with over 75% of girls and now boys being immunized, and what’s happened is the virus has now virtually disappeared” Professor Frazer said. With its proven success in Australia the obvious goal is to duplicate its success elsewhere, meaning Vanuatu would rid itself of the virus and eventually the disease. “The vaccine works, it’s safe and it’s available. Its just needs to be ensured
Islandliving pacific
We’re a very precocious four years old this issue so we’re congratulating ourselves on having left home and ranged widely across the region. Pacific Island Living is now available free in its thousands in outlets throughout Fiji, Vanuatu, Solomon Islands, Nauru, the Federated States of Micronesia, Australia and New Zealand.. Join 70,000 other devotees and follow us on Facebook or read any issue in its entirety at www. pacificislandliving.com Happy Birthday to us and thanks to our 250,000 readers for helping us grow up!
islandliving | 21 pacific
Pacific Pulse Pilot program saving lifes in Vanuatu, education a priority in Nauru.
all women get the chance to be vaccinated,” he said. “One in a hundred women in Vanuatu will get cervical cancer; four of those hundred will have changes that will mean they could develop cancer, these women are the ones whose lives are being changed through the
screening program, these women are being cured from the disease, it has immediate effect.” Professor Frazer’s next move is to develop a strategy to roll out the project across other developing countries such as Papua New Guinea, Solomon Islands and Kiribati.
The challenge will be in supplying vaccines to these countries, however there are interested donors willing to participate. The Australian Cervical Cancer Foundation aims to raise one million dollars to ensure women’s health in the long term is sustainable in Vanuatu and across the Pacific. The ‘million dollar fund’ would mean that women’s health in Vanuatu would be a standalone from government. It would be enough money to fund the program in perpetuity, without relying on any other organisation to care for the women of Vanuatu. “If one million sounds a little too big for your budget, then $100,000 is needed to set up the pathology lab to assist in cancer diagnosis in Vanuatu,” Dr. McAdam of the Foundation said. For more information or to donate, go to www.accf.org.au
MISS NAURU AIMS FOR SAMOA Digicel Nauru has introduced their newest brand ambassador, Lucina Detsiogo, the current Miss Nauru. Lucina represented the Chief Secretary’s Department in the Nauru Independence Day celebrations at the Miss Nauru Pageant in February. Lucina is committed to working towards is improving the future of education and Nauruan culture during her reign as Miss Nauru. “I’m also looking forward to participating in the Miss Pacific Islands Pageant which will be held in Samoa later this year.” Over the coming weeks and months, Lucina will be campaigning and preparing herself for her trip to Samoa where she will be participating on the international stage, striving to be the next Miss Pacific from Nauru, behind first ever Nauruan Miss South Pacific contestant – Lenora Oppenheimer-Bond. She will also attend official functions and marketing events for Digicel. “This is not the first time Digicel Nauru has sponsored the Miss Nauru Pageant, but it is definitely the first time we have ever had a female brand ambassador,” Digicel Nauru chief executive officer Ben Kealy said. “We look forward to working closely with Lucina on her road to the Miss Pacific Pageant in Samoa.” Joanna Olsson, organiser of the Miss Nauru Committee and Director at the Nauru Government Information Office
22 | Islandliving pacific
said: “It’s exciting and challenging times for Lucina especially because this is the first time a Miss Nauru has signed up to any corporate sponsorship. “The Committee is very thankful that Digicel has agreed to take on Miss Nauru as its brand ambassador,” Ms. Olsson said. “The Committee is making efforts to lift the profile of Miss Nauru further than it has been in the past. Not everyone can be Miss Nauru but Lucina will be a great ambassador for Nauru, (and in particular) the young women of Nauru and with Digicel’s sponsorship she will surely shine in the community.”
islandliving | 23 paciďŹ c
24 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
islandliving | 25 paciďŹ c
26 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
islandliving | 27 paciďŹ c
Bodoni metal wall lamp, $105 www.dotandbo.com
Ecochic dipped basket pendant, $330 www.ecochic.com.au
Pasking basket lamp, $515 www. coastfurnitureandinteriors.com.au
Bright Ideas ents
m o m b l u b t h g li
Cora pendants, starting at $495 www.jaysonhome.com
Nordic concrete dome pendant medium, $149.95 www.domayneonline.com.au
Oly, Flower Drop chandelier, $3,595 www.cocorepublic.com.au
Rattan curved table lamp,T806001, ÂŁ49.50 www.marksandspencer.com 28 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
Milk & Sugar, Victor table lamp, $219.95 www.huntingforgeorge.com
Rope Cage antique grey, $160 www.jonesandco. com.au
decor
Fibonacci Vantana double chaise POA, www.janusetcie.com
Cuzco hanging chair, $198 www.urbanoutfitters.com
Jumbo pink velvet floor cushion, $149 www.castleandthings.com.au Grazia and Co, Rollo ottoman, $449 www.huntingforgeorge.com
Please Be Seated g pretty Sittin
Valencia hammock, $69 www.dotandbo.com
Folding travel seat, $79.90 www.zarahome.com
Drum stool - natural frame/ vintage black print, $239 www.bowerhouse.com.au
Round braided pouf, $89.90 www.zarahome.com
Cane hanging chair, $580 www.ecochic.com.au
islandliving | 29 paciďŹ c
Industrial storage side table Raw Mango, $499 www. westelm.com.au
Fern Living Spear multi coloured basket, small, $90 www.urban-couture. com.au
Meet You Halfway ladder, $115 www.dotandbo.com
Aytm Gutta mirror jewellery box rose copper, $235.00 www.designstuff.com.au
Storage Solutions ’ stack pack ‘n
Natural Leather cooler, small / $385.00 www.jaysonhome.com
Brigid Ccrcle shelf, $329 www.urbanoutfitters.com
Rope whale storage basket, $140 www.dotandbo.com
Low tray with handles, $89.95 www.zarahome.com
Tadlow ice bucket, the accessories collection designed by Hanice Feldman POA www.janusetcie.com 30 | Islandliving pacific
Imm Living, wishbone gold wall hook, $49.95 www.huntingforgeorge.com
Aytm Circum round wall mirror rose copper, $425 www.designstuff.com.au
Big Marble sculpture, $69 www.castleandthings.com.au
Venini handmade two-tone glass hourglass, $1203 www.luisaviaroma.com
Just Because dulge in
Honor paddles by Norquayco, $380 for one www.norquayco.com
Oly,antler wreath, $1,125 www.cocorepublic.com.au
Driftwood wall hanging, $500 www.ecochic.com.au
Daily Catch hanging sculpture, $31 www.dotandbo.com
Concrete Dala horse – natural $39.00 www.zakkia.com.au islandliving | 31 paciďŹ c
SECLUDED AND UNTOUCHED SECLUDED AND UNTOUCHED SECLUDED UNTOUCHED Port Olry,AND Espiritu Santo Port Olry, Espiritu Santo #D ISCOVER V ANUATU Port Olry, Espiritu Santo #DISCOVERVANUATU WWW.VANUATU.TRAVEL #D ISCOVERVANUATU WWW.VANUATU.TRAVEL WWW.VANUATU.TRAVEL
islandliving | 32 paciямБc
34° AND Y OU’LL NE VER FEEL MORE CHILLED
REL AX, RE VIVE, REFRE SH AT FIJI’S FINE ST ADDRE SS Experience the unique calm that is Naisoso Island Resort Villas. Long term and holiday luxury accommodation available now. Visit website for latest offers and villa specifications. Phone: +679 672 9342 or +679 998 5865
www.naisosoislandresortvillas.com
islandliving | 33 pacific
34 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
islandliving | 35 paciďŹ c
fashion flash AAKS Sese tote bag, $325 www.urbanoutfitters.com
Mara Hoffman, peacock-print balconette swimsuit, $417 www.matchesfashion.com
Chinti And Parker, cashmere travel set, $702 www.net-a-porter.com
The Perfect Pack sentials
s e y a d i l o H for her Stella Mccartney lingerie, holiday knickers of the week, $291 www.matchesfashion.com Patchwork poncho, $149 www.countryroad.com.au
Jay Ahr, halter neck evening gown,$3,903.35 www.farfetch.com
Ray-Ban®, round acetate navy sunglasses, $210 www.tuchuzy.com
Ugg Australia, classic wired shearling earmuff headphones, $117 www.stylebop.com
High-neck dress, Blue Pop, $340 www.reiss.com
Prices in AUD unless otherwise stated
Gathered blouse, $149 www.countryroad.com.au
Norma Kamali, convertible striped stretch-jersey dress, $134 www.net-a-porter.com
Lizzie Fortunato Jewels, ‘Pool Girls Safari’ clutch, $599.67 www.farfetch.com Moto Bow playsuit, £39.00 www.topshop.com
Citizens Of Humanity, wide leg cropped jeans, $432.43 www.farfetch.com
J.W. Anderson, contrast-stripes ribbed-knit wool skirt, $684 www.matchesfashion.com
Tomas Maier, Mustique straw hat, $300 www.matchesfashion.com
Olivia Von Hall, Alba floral-print silk-satin pajama set, $526 www.net-a-porter.com
Lala Berlin, holiday print T-shirt, $121.36 www.farfetch.com
Braided long-line bikini top and bottoms, £28.00 www. topshop.com
Petite textured Truster coat, £79 www.topshop.com
Sam Edelman, Gretchen embroidered canvas and leather sandals, $173 www.net-a-porter.com
Steve Madden Carrson, yellow suede block heel sandals, $165.98 www.asos.com islandliving | 37 pacific
Navy Mi-Pac Hawaiian print backpack, $80.00 au.riverisland.com
The Horse, the original unisex leather watch – black white walnut, $139.00 www.surfstitch.com
Get Outta Here! st haves
Chino shorts, $27 au.nextdirect.com
u m y a d i l o H o g e h t n o n a m a r fo Zara wide-brim straw hat, $29.90 USD www.zara.com
Bottega Veneta, Intrecciato leather espadrilles, $765 www.matchesfashion.com
Zip bomber jacket, $465 www.reiss.com
Tom Ford, Square Sunglasses, $390 www.stylebop.com
Saint JamesÂŽ unisex Meridien II nautical T-shirt $169.20 www.jcrew.com
Prices in AUD unless otherwise stated
MNKR Lover pocket tee, $28 www.urbanoutfitters.com
Eastpak, Byles M canvas wheeled suitcase, $222.70 www.mrporter.com
Ami Alexandre Mattiussi, printed cotton T-shirt, $112 www.stylebop.com
Vilebrequin, Printed Swim Trunks, $235 www.stylebop.com
Kenzo, embroidered cotton pullover, $317 www.stylebop.com
Hawkings McGill washed skinny stretch chino pant, $49 www.urbanoutfitters.com
Woven cotton belt, $52.50 www.jcrew.com
Want Les Essentiels De La Vie, Dumont leather sandals, $310 www.matchesfashion.com
Slim mid wash jean, $109 www.countryroad.com.au
Adidas Samoa sneaker, $70 www.urbanoutfitters.com
Officine Generale, Japanese chambray-cotton shirt $278.36 www.mrporter.com
Smythson, Panama leather cardholder, $173 www.matchesfashion.com/au B&O Play, BeoPlay A2 bluetooth speaker, $795.33 www.mrporter.com
Sunnylife inflatable watermelon, $94.55 www.asos.com islandliving | 39 paciďŹ c
40 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
islandliving | 41 paciďŹ c
Nautical equipment can still be found on many of the wrecks including this telegraph repeater on the Shinkoku Maru.
f o s k c e r The W
Truk Lagoon
72 years after Operation Hailstone, tranquility has returned to Truk Lagoon, where diving is therapy writes Mike Gerken who has been exploring, photographing and diving in the area for ten years.
42 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
Federated States of Micronesia
Above: An officers vehicle can be seen on the wreck of the Amagisan Maru and Truk Lagoon’s premier deep dive, the San Francisco Maru.
PICTURE: Mike Gerken
I
stare across the calm azure waters of the lagoon and imagine the WWII Japanese fleet before me; warships, merchant vessels are moving about with the purpose of waging war. Fighter planes and bombers zoom overhead on their way to and from the airfield. Tenders race to unload valuable cargo from the newly arrived vessels. Then a moment later, I envision chaos reigning down from the air; US Navy planes strafe and bomb the ships lying helplessly at anchor. Planes are shot out of the sky and spiral down crashing into the water. The din of explosions, the smell of burning ships and dense smoke blackening the tropical sky pretends to foul all my senses at once. It’s hard to fathom that this remote paradisal pacific destination was once the scene of immense carnage. It was February 17, 1944 at the height of the war in the Pacific. The United States Navy launched a massive carrierbased air raid, codenamed ‘Operation Hailstone’, upon the Japanese Naval stronghold of Truk Lagoon in Micronesia. Hundreds of Japanese planes were destroyed, dozens of ships sunk and more than 2000 lives lost in what was the largest aircraft carrier based raid conducted in history.
Flash forward 72 years and tranquility has returned to the lagoon. Known today as the state of Chuuk within the Federated States of Micronesia, Truk Lagoon is a large atoll stretching a grand 150miles/240km in circumference. The diving conditions within this fringing reef are superb. Depths of the wrecks are deeper than most dive destinations but with the average water temperature at 82F/28C and visibility often exceeding 100 feet/30M the overall challenge of diving Truk is not that considerable. With that said, enthusiastic divers from around the world make the pilgrimage to this remote Pacific destination to see the famed Japanese wrecks of Truk Lagoon. Nowhere else in the world will you find a dive locale that offers dive sites as steeped in history and rich in marine life as you will in Chuuk.
An underwater museum
With the many artifacts and hidden stories to be found, the wrecks of Truk are veritable underwater museum. However, the admission here requires donning dive equipment and diving down to the bottom of the lagoon to enter. Nautical
islandliving | 43 pacific
equipment, rows of portholes, thousands of beer bottles and large deck cannons are but a few of the artifacts to be seen in this museum. There is a duality to the wrecks in that they are more than just rusting historical relics. In addition, they are now home to thriving reef communities. Dozens of magnificent anemones a metre across, lush soft coral gardens, healthy populations of schooling jacks and barracuda as well as the presence of top predators such as sharks and tuna can be found on most of the wreck sites. I first arrived in Truk Lagoon more than 10 years ago and have been working here in the dive industry for the better part of that time. Today, I’m the captain of the M/V Odyssey, one of Truk Lagoons liveaboard dive vessels where divers can live on board for a week at a time exploring the many wrecks. After logging more than a total of 2000 dives on nearly two-dozen different wrecks, I still haven’t grown weary of them. Each day and every dive yields new secrets and amazing encounters with marine life. In addition to my role as captain, I’m a professional underwater photographer. I find the subject matter here to be endless. The wrecks themselves make wonderful backdrops for whatever happens to be in front of your lens. Each dive site has its own personality. Some are deep and mysterious where others are shallow and covered with marine growth. Still others have great opportunities for experienced divers to penetrate deep inside the wrecks to explore and see first hand the inner workings of a World War II era merchant vessel.
The Shinkoku Maru is my therapy
44 | Islandliving pacific
Diving Truk is more than wrecks. There are plenty of sharks too.
PICTURES: Mike Gerken
The wreck of the Shinkoku Maru is one of the largest shipwrecks in the lagoon and is one of my favorites. At over 500 feet in length this fleet oiler has so much to offer beginner divers and experts alike. The forward section will leave most divers awestruck at the sheer density of coral growth covering everything. When I swim the length of her decks and admire the colors and numerous tropical fish species, life above water is on hold. There is no stress down here; no bills to worry about or traffic jams to cope with. The Shinkoku Maru is my therapy. When I am in the need of an adrenaline rush, a penetration dive deep into the engine room of the Shinkoku is in order. The winding multi-level passages are tight and completely dark. The silt on the floor is thick and perfect fin kicks are required to prevent silt outs. The engine room dive is not for everyone but those whose skills are honed and nerves toughened will not soon forget this experience. The wreck of the Fujikawa Maru is another premier dive sight in Truk Lagoon. This airplane transport ship was struck by a torpedo and went down before the shipment of Japanese Zeros it was carrying could be offloaded to the nearby airstrip. In WWII, the Zero was Japan’s most formidable fighter plane but most were destroyed by wars end. To see even a piece
Above right: A diver explores the bow of the Unkai Maru. Below: The main switch panel inside the engine room of the Rio de Janeiro Maru.
“The wrecks are more than just rusting historical relics. In addition, they are now home to thriving reef communities. Dozens of magnificent anemones a metre across, lush soft coral gardens, healthy populations of schooling jacks and barracuda as well as the presence of top predators such as sharks and tuna can be found on most of the wreck sites.”
islandliving | 45 pacific
PICTURES: Mike Gerken
46 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
Left: A diver peers through the wheelhouse window at the telegraph repeater inside the wheelhouse.
of a Zero is rare which makes the dive down into the cargo hold of the Fujikawa to see nearly 10 of them that much more exciting. Each time I hover over the top of one of the planes, I ponder at how small the cockpit is and ask myself, “how did the pilot fit in to such a tiny plane”? The Fujikawa is yet another wreck for amazing marine life encounters and interesting artifacts. If you’re an avid wreck diver, it is likely you have already heard of the “Fuji” and logged a few dives on her. The water is generally very clear and the depth reasonable at around 20-25 metres deep. I often hover over the enormous 6-inch deck gun on the bow and watch the hive of activity all around me. Jacks and tuna chase bait fish to and fro while anemones gently sway back and forth in the surge. Red snappers eyeball me curiously and possibly wonder, “What is this noisy invader?”
Divers delve deeper
Most who travel from afar to Chuuk to explore the wrecks often feel by the end of a week of diving that they have merely scratched the surface of what there is to experience here. Once they get a taste of the diving, their appetite for it only grows. Many return year after year to delve deeper and stay longer. To dive every one of the 30-plus premier wreck sites is a daunting task, one that not even I, after more than eight years of diving here, have yet to do. If you’re an avid diver who has a keen interest in WWII history and a lover of marine life, then the wrecks of Truk Lagoon is a must see dive experience. If they haven’t beckoned to you yet, maybe they will now. • Mike Gerken is a professional underwater photojournalist as well as a dive boat captain who publishes his work through his company, Evolution Underwater Imaging LLC. Visit Mike’s web site www.evolutiounderwater.com to see more of Mike’s work.
HOTEL ROBERT REIMERS – Majuro, Marshall Islands –
Stay wit h us and we will treat you like family Family owned and operated, Hotel Robert Reimers prides itself on warm hospitality and excellent customer service. From our Efficiency Rooms to our waterfront Bungalow Suites, we have accommodation to suit all travellers, here for business and leisure. Enjoy modern conveniences in this centrally located hotel, and our popular Tide Table Restaurant and Lounge.
Ph: +692 625 5131 Fax: +692 625 3783 Email: colettereimers@rreinc.com www.hotelrobertreimers.com
islandliving | 47 pacific
WWII history, Micronesian hospitality.
DIVE SHOP INFORMATION: Truk Lagoon Dive Center, located at the Truk Stop Hotel TEL: 691-330-4232 Email: diveshop@dive-truklagoon.com www.dive-truklagoon.com 48 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
LIVEABOARD DIVING: Blue Lagoon Dive Shop, located at the Blue Lagoon Resort TEL: 691- 330-2796 Email: BLDiveShop@mail.fm www.bluelagoondiveresort.com
Odyssey Adventures (liveaboard) TEL: 800-757-5396 Email: info@TrukOdyssey.com www.trukodyssey.com
CHUUK. The World’s
Greatest Wreck Diving Destination.
Chuuk original sticker
Seaward Holidays Micronesia (Thorifinn) (liveaboard) TEL: 691-330-3040 Email: seaward.thorfinn@gmail.com www.thorfinn.net
Chuuk is in the beautiful Federated States of Micronesia. Major tourist attraction Truk Lagoon has incredible scuba diving. Nauru Airlines flies once a week from Brisbane to Chuuk.
Chuuk Visitors Bureau. Email: chuukvb.fsm@gmail.com or chuukstatevb@gmail.com www.visit-micronesia.fm island living island living| 49 |3 paciďŹ pacificc
abode
Inside Out m o o R r o Outdo
The
The demarcation between our home’s interior and exterior spaces has become increasingly blurred says Toby Preston who steps outside to take a look at what’s on offer in al fresco living.
Below: Tropical simplicity, when outdoor and indoor living really does meet in Santo, Vanuatu. Above left: Sleeping outside never looked
so good, a netted Javanese daybed on Ratua Private Island on Santo. Above right: Also in Vanuatu, a beautifully constructed dining pavilion.
F
rom the humble hammock to opulently fitted permanent structures with heating, lighting and full scale kitchens the search for the perfect outdoor living area has been around for centuries. From the middle ages almost every Italian commune featured an open, arched loggia in the main square, in private villas and palazzos the loggia, usually on the ground floor, but sometimes on an upper level, was an open area with a ceiling usually supported by columns or arches in a colonnaded style designed to be used as an outdoor sitting room. The Victorians liked a veranda, in spite of a climate that wasn’t at all conducive to the outdoor lifestyle, it’s thought they became an architectural feature as a nod to fashion rather than practicality. You only need to look around Sydney and Melbourne’s terrace house suburbs to appreciate that every house, no matter house small and whatever the aspect, has the iron lace balustrade veranda clinging to at least one wall. It’s said the popularity of the colonial house surrounded by generous verandas was introduced to British colonies in warmer climes by officials who had served in the Caribbean, India and the Mediterranean. So Australia got its famous farmhouses and distinctive Queenslanders with huge covered outdoor spaces which were often netted for insects and used as sleeping quarters as well as dining and entertaining spaces. Indeed the timber Queenslanderstyle house is the ultimately practical solution to the indooroutdoor dilemma. It’s built on timber poles or stilts so the area underneath the house gets plenty of ventilation and
islandliving | 51 pacific
cools the rooms above, while the veranda itself affords plenty of shade for the main enclosed portion of the building and allows cool breezes throughout the house. Singapore and Malaysia got Rafflesesque-style ceiling fans and breezy courtyards and porticos filled with palm trees and pink gins, the Caribbean got India Hicks with dark wooden floors, white timber walls and generous covered verandas, and the islands got a lot of resort developers who knew what the travelling public wanted – plenty of stylishly designed outdoor dining and drinking spaces. Bali, Thailand, the Maldives – pretty much anywhere with water and sunshine is littered with beautiful villas, resorts and hotels that capture the essence of the outdoor lifestyle. The recent trend in architecture to seemingly blend the interior with the exterior has meant a blurring of the line between the two areas and enables a wonderful lack of demarcation between both. This sort of flexibility is a step up from the need to plod through the garden to the gazebo or the summer house (if you happen to live on a vast English estate), or keep opening the fly screen door to get to the patio, deck, porch or pergola, now that we have bi-fold doors and multiple sliders that disappear into walls, there are no boundaries. The latest al fresco indulgence seems to be the ‘outdoor kitchen’ which I might have thought was an Australian invention given the status the Aussie barbie enjoys but I suspect it is actually something the Americans (particularly those who retired to Florida) came up with to enhance their ‘cookout’ experiences and in typically US style, some of these areas are more elaborate than their indoor versions with fully fitted stainless steel fixtures, pizza ovens and ceramic charcoal grills, granite bench tops built in bars and fridges and overhead heating and fans. In other words everything including the kitchen sink … just no walls. Which is exactly what the attraction of the outdoor room is. Below left: A fine example of the iconic ‘Queenslander’. Above: The Warwick Fiji’s outdoor bar area. Below: Room with a view on
52 | Islandliving pacific
Natadola Bay at the Intercontinental, Fiji. Top right: Port Vila harbourside. Middle: A full granite-topped outdoor kitchen. Below: Malolo, Fiji.
islandliving | 53 paciďŹ c
Proudly supporting the Nauru community. In June 2015 we committed to extending our banking services to the people of Nauru. The opening of the agency has marked the return of banking services to the 10,000 strong Nauruan community after a 15-year absence. Why? Because, we know that for us to be successful, our customers and communities need to be successful first.
When you choose to bank with us, you’re making a decision that benefits you and the Nauru community. Bendigo Bank is not just about money, we’re about the good that money can bring. And what could be bigger than that. Drop into your nearest agency at Ground Floor, Civic Centre, Aiwo District or phone +674 5571780 to find out more.
Nauru agency
bendigobank.com.au
Bendigo and Adelaide Bank Limited, ABN 11 068 049 178 AFSL/Australian Credit Licence 237879. S48450-8 (jobnum) (date)
54 | Islandliving pacific
% 100 ATU
U VAN DUCE PRO
Ahn Massage & Relaxation 30mins 1,500vt • 60mins 2,500vt
Vanuatu Handicraft Market, Wharf Road, Port Vila P +678 5554539 organicparadisevu www.organicparadisevu.com
SHIRO SUSHI
& JAPANESE CUISINE “The most modern Sushi Train style Japanese restaurant in Vila.”
“The most luxury massage salon at reasonable price.” Ahn Massage & Relaxation
Shiro Sushi & Japanese Cuisine
Open Monday - Sunday, 9am-9pm Ground Floor Tana Russet Plaza, Lini Highway Phone (+678) 23002
Open Mon - Sun, Lunch 11.30am-2pm Dinner 5.30pm-9pm Level 1 Tana Russet Plaza, Lini Highway Phone (+678) 23002
islandliving | 55 pacific
a i s e n o r c Mi
A Day In Pohnpei Keri Algar sets off to explore one of the wettest islands in the world but is delighted by the lush landscape, and a surprise unnatural wonder.
“Y
ou had better take a brolly. It rains a lot in Pohnpei,” advises a friend who has visited the Micronesian island on several occasions. Disregarding this advice, I’ve lugged along a surfboard instead but at the last minute decide to replace my handbag with a dry bag. It’s just as well that I do. Pohnpei picks up an average 4769mm (188in) of rainfall per year, making it one of the wettest regions of the western North Pacific, and indeed, the world. The abundance of water yields hundreds of waterfalls and a jungle so lush there’s a sense of otherworldliness to it. I hug the dry bag to my chest and dash across the car park, leaving the shelter of the Cliff Rainbow Hotel’s reception behind. I jump into an airconditioned SUV and turn to my driver cum guide, who turns out to be a very tall and equally round Micronesian. Mac smiles, the craze lines of his teeth stained red by betel nut. “Where do you wanna go?” he enquires. It’s a reconnaissance day, so naturally our first stop is the visitor information centre on the main street of the principal town, Kolonia. A group of Japanese tourists are clambering over a rust-stained WW2 tank stationed at the side of the centre. I pick up a couple of maps, note a few points of interest and we’re off southbound with a rough plan of action to circumnavigate the island. Just out of town we cross the Dauhsokole River. Brackish water swirls in circles below the bridge before being swiftly swept out to sea. “An eel made this place a long time ago,” says Mac, nodding towards a small peninsula that juts out alongside the river.
56 | Islandliving pacific
PICTURE: Richard Kotch
Island Escape
Nan Madol, one of the Pacific’s best-kept secrets. Built on a lagoon and spreading as far as the eye can see are the ruins of an ancient megalithic city.
islandliving | 57 paciďŹ c
According to Pohnpeian legend, a couple in a village upriver raised an eel until one day they decided it was time to eat it. The eel overheard their wicked plan so it came out of the river and ate them instead! Fearful of the community who sought revenge on the eel, it swam out to the ocean where unfortunately a shark bit off its head, leaving behind the tail, which is now Nett Point. Nett (Netch) Point is the local’s answer to Pohnpei’s lack of beaches. Man-made coral channels have been built to provide a safe place for families to enjoy a few weekend hours swimming and lounging about. It’s also home to the island’s best-known pig roast restaurant.
Nowhere slow
We continue southbound on the island’s ring road, averaging 35km per hour. In the Pacific it seems that the smaller the island the more slowly people drive. But what’s the rush? As we drive along I admire the Jurassic-like jungle that threatens to engulf the road. Huge kasava leaves jostle for space beside breadfruit and noni trees, guava, wild ginger and hibiscus. Entire families are out and about cutting grass and tidying the roadside. These proud islanders, who dedicate Saturday mornings to gardening, are doing their best to tame their wild home. Some communities simply keep the jungle at bay – not a simple job – while others plant decorative gardens.
58 | Islandliving pacific
They’re motivated by an annual island-wide competition that awards the winning community with the honour of keeping the most beautiful area. At the Kepirohi community we stop beside a small canteen stocked with everything from navy biscuits to underwear (and umbrellas). The smell of cut grass from the morning’s work hangs in the air as we follow a pretty path to Kepirohi’s famous waterfall. It’s not very tall but the torrent of water that comes down is powerful and the spray that it casts blows back my hair. There doesn’t seem to be a dry moment on this island.
Nan Madol
Mac tips the landowner $7 and we’re directed to a wooden walkway. The passage takes us over a muddy swamp that’s thick with mangroves. We dodge the few fat raindrops that fall from the canopy. After a few minutes the path opens up to one of the Pacific’s best-kept secrets. Built on a lagoon and spreading as far as the eye can see are the ruins of an ancient megalithic city. Sea birds soar over enormous basalt columns that have been cut long, thick and straight and are stacked together like matchsticks. It’s eerily quiet save the sound of insects in the swamp behind us. I look at Mac, wide-eyed. He laughs, “Yes, it’s wonderful.” He unfolds a tourist map and we see that the archeological
PICTURE top: Richard Kotch
site spreads over 18 km², most of it only accessible by boat or kayak. It’s low tide so we leave our flip-flops by the walkway and begin our exploration. Originally known as Soun Nan-leng or ‘Reef of Heaven’, the name has since changed to Nan Madol meaning ‘spaces between’, which refers to a series of man-made islets and the canal system that links them together. Its construction has been carbon dated to 1200 CE, though there is evidence of habitation from as far back as 200 BCE. One of Nan Madol’s unresolved mysteries is from where and how the massive basalt columns arrived. Mac mumbles something about levitation and floating from the other side of the island. In fact, many theories have been posited, but none yet proven and locals’ modern-day belief in black magic seems to be the most widely accepted on the island. We duck under a low doorway and into a ceremonial chamber where the nobility might have been buried. “I heard that this is where the chief did spiritual sacrifices,” Mac whispers. It’s damp and dark. Vines have snaked their way in through every crevice and fern tendrils escape from the spaces between basalt layers – the ruins’ return to nature seems inevitable. We exit the chamber just as the rain starts to set in once more.
Opposite page: Kepirohi famous waterfall – “It’s not very tall but the torrent of water that comes down is powerful and the spray that it casts blows back my hair.” Above: Pohnpei is littered with WWII relics. Below: The Kepirohi community canteen is tocked with everything from Navy biscuits to underwear ... and umbrellas.
islandliving | 59 pacific
60 | Islandliving
paciямБc
PICTURE: Pohnpei Surf Club
Left: Nett Point. Above: Reef fish on the menu, hold the eel please. Below: Mac makes his way through dense and colourful jungle.
Later I meet the local anthropologist who is leading the charge to have Nan Madol listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in an effort to help preserve it. The site was submitted to the Tentative List in 2012 as a ‘representation of a globally significant masterpiece of creative genius’. A resolution is expected later this year.
Laughs at the end of day
Mac pulls over next to a PVC pipe that’s funneling a flow of water from a stream. “Do you see where it comes from?” he asks, pointing up at the rolling mounds of a nearby hill. “Do you know Kosrae?” This is a neighbouring Micronesian island and viewed from the sea its mountains resemble a woman’s body; she is known as the ‘sleeping lady’. “On Pohnpei is the bottom half of the sleeping lady. This water comes from her. It has never run dry and it is the sweetest tasting water on the whole island. But only men can taste the difference.” Peering out of the corner of his eye for my reaction, the Big Mac starts to giggle. We cup our palms under the stream and lap up some of the purest rainwater in the world.•
islandliving | 61 pacific
Offering a stunning range of Vanuatu stamps and first day covers for collectors or as souvenirs available for purchase online
Featuring beautiful photographs and illustrations of Vanuatu
At Hideaway Island Resort’s marine sanctuary you will find the world’s first underwater post office. You can post Underwater Post postcards to family and friends as a unique souvenir of your Vanuatu holiday! 62 | Islandliving pacific
www.vanuatupost.vu
islandliving | 63 paciďŹ c
Beauty Spot
Voilà
French Girl Beauty T
here’s a current obsession in the beauty and fashion world with the ‘French girl’. Magazines and blogs are ruminating on how to achieve French girl hair, and how to dress and wear make-up like a beautiful Parisian with that effortless but innately stylish je ne sais quoi. Perhaps it’s because French women take care of themselves and their appearance without being obsessed by it. Or perhaps they embrace an individual approach to beauty, making the best of what they have rather than conforming to some beauty ideal. Or maybe they just know something we don’t. When it comes to beauty the French girl approach is less is more. Hair is healthy and cut well but not overly styled. And the same goes for make-up, a strong lip or smoky eye adds glamour but there is minimal foundation (the French girl snears at contouring) it’s all about letting healthy glowing skin speak for itself. Skin expert Christine Calais believes French women have enviable skin because they are taught by their mother’s (and grandmothers) to establish good routines and rituals from a young age. In her book French Complexion she shares some secrets to achieving French girl skin, at any age.
Late teens and twenties
Skincare: Sunscreen is important throughout your life but never more so than now, your future skin will thank you if you start applying it daily. Also at this time in your life you may be prone to breakouts so Calais recommends cleansing twice a day with a gentle crème cleanser not a harsh one that will dry out and irritate your skin. Make-up: Your twenties is a great time to experiment with bold colours and a smoky eye, however this is when your skin will be at it’s glowing best so Calais recommends letting your natural beauty shine through by using a tinted moisturiser and staying away from heavy foundation.
Thirties
Skincare: This time in your life can be quite hectic, you are most likely working hard and maybe raising young children and the fatigue will be showing on your skin. Calais recommends investing in a good eye-cream that can start combatting free radical damage and a serious moisturiser
64 | Islandliving pacific
French women are renowned for casual and insouciant elegance. Think Charlotte Gainsbourg, Audrey Tautou and Brigitte Bardot. Georgie Gordon delves into Christine Calais’s guide to achieving the perfect complexion Francais across the decades.
containing hyaluronic acid to hydrate the skin effectively. An oxygenising mask will also be beneficial in giving your skin a pick me up when needed. Make-up: Calais believes that every woman should own a red lipstick by your thirties as it is the perfect pick me up. Now is the time to start investing in higher quality make-up, a good eye-shadow palette in neutral shades that will take you from day to night (a variety of matt and shimmer options) is essential. Also a good concealer to hide those dark under eye shadows that will be starting appear.
Forties
Skincare: Calais is a big believer in using facial masks to significantly improve your skin and your forties is the perfect time to start doing it regularly. Clay based masks are great for purifying and hydrating the skin and a strong antioxidant mask will protect your skin from free radicals therefore having anti-aging properties. Make-up: By now dreaded age spots and some blotchiness and redness will probably have started to appear on your skin. Use a good primer before you apply foundation and concealer to help with a clear, radiant complexion. Your lash line may start to appear less defined and Calais recommends using a soft eyeliner to give it more intensity.
Fifties and beyond
Skin-care: A drop in your hormone levels and a decrease in activity of your sebaceous glands will mean your skin is drier than ever, Calais recommends alternating between a very rich moisturising cream for night and a lighter one that won’t sit greasily on your skin throughout the day. She also advises choosing gentle products for cleansing and exfoliating to avoid damaging your increasingly fragile skin. A light peel instead of an abrasive exfoliator for example. Make-up: Calais stands by the less is more approach once you hit fifty, choose hydrating, light formulas and opt for only a hint of colour on the cheeks and lips. A volumising mascara will give sparse eye-lashes definition and a good lip-liner is beneficial to stop lipstick feathering. An eye-brow pencil is the final touch to achieving a fuller and stronger brow, always use one that is one shade lighter than your hair colour for a natural look.
Finally ..
Looking after your skin and your health is the fist step to achieving French girl skin, however as Calais says what matters most is that you are well mannered and well groomed and perhaps we can all adopt a little of the French way in appreciating a women’s natural beauty and elegance regardless of their age. French Complexion: The Secrets to Beautiful Skin at Any Age by Christine Calais is published by Viking.
Audrey Tautou demonstrates a little French insoucience.
islandliving | 65 pacific
islandliving | 66 paciďŹ c
MARSHALL ISLANDS discover your peace of mind...
A nationwide campaign to promote Marshallese products and services Marshall Islands Ministry of Resources & Development, Division of Trade & Investment Phone (692)625-3206/4020 | Fax (692) 625-7471 | Web www.rmimrd.com | Facebook Be Marshallese, Buy Marshallese
islandliving | 67 paciďŹ c
Kosrae Nautilus Resort Micronesia Remote, Relaxed, Refreshing… Air-conditioned Accommodation and restaurant Kosrae’s longest running dive operator Read all about us on Trip Advisor
kosraenautilus.com | info@kosraenautilus.com | kosraediving.com 68 | Islandliving pacific
Resort Report
Places we love c fi i c a P e h t n i s y a magic st From the re-opening of Vanuatu’s famed Iririki Island Resort to adults only retreats, the choice of accommodation in the Pacific is endless. We check out a few favourites plus travel writer and TV host Jade Harrison checks in to review Naisoso Island’s luxurious holiday homes.
The Havannah
There is a reason the Havannah Resort in Vanuatu keeps winning awards. A pristine setting on the stunningly beautiful white sand peninsula of Samoa Point, where dugong, dolphins and turtles regularly frequent the area, 17 luxurious, airconditioned villas offering a combination of style and comfort and deluxe waterfront villas with spacious separate living areas and indoor-outdoor bathrooms. If that’s not enough, outside there are day beds that overlook the villas’ private pools, a dining pavilion with BBQ so you can enjoy dinners cooked by the chef in the privacy of your own villa, plus a sundeck overhanging the water below the main deck. The Waterfront villas have infinity plunge pools, bath tubs, and direct access to the beach while the Lagoon villas have their own private access to a magnificent split level lagoon pool. All villas feature a king size bed, à la carte mini bar, flat screen TV, Wi-Fi, tea and coffee making facilities, airconditioning, iron and ironing board, in-room safe and Bose sound docking systems. The Point Restaurant, with its commanding 270° views over Havannah Harbour, offers gourmet cuisine using the freshest of local ingredients. Arom’essence Day Spa, picnics on secluded beaches or enjoying the resort’s facilities including snorkeling, kayaking, sailing, petanque or tennis are all options. There is a wide choice of activities that can be organised at the Havannah, from total relaxation to adventure sports. Scuba diving, deep sea fishing, Snuba, Lelepa Island tours to name a few. The Havannah’s professional wedding coordinator will organise a perfect tropical wedding for the happy couple. Special wedding packages come complete with minister or celebrant, photographer and wedding fare. The wedding coordinator ensures your day is just as it should be – perfect. Attractive honeymoon and anniversary packages are on offer
to complete the romantic experience. The Havannah, Vanuatu is a romantic retreat exclusively for adults only. Children under 16 are not catered for.
Naisoso Island Getaway
Most of my Fijian vacations to date have been rather fantastic; reviewing new resorts and experiences, lazing about on beaches and imbibing in true style at a number of resortbased restaurants. When I was invited to stay at one of Naisoso Island’s holiday homes for a design-it-yourself type of holiday, I wasn’t sure what to expect. I liaised with the team at Naisoso prior to my arrival and made a number of requests such as a driver at the airport, who drove me eight minutes up the road to the island for an in-villa check-in. As the car drove over the bridge and onto the island, I felt like I’d escaped to a small little pocket of paradise. Surrounded by the mountainous mainland on one side, the river and ocean on the others, the island had a beautiful water fountain and sprawling lush manicured lawns and gardens, which edged bitumen roads that housed incredibly impressive homes. With a traditional warm ‘bula’ welcome, I was adorned be a shell lei and met by Naisoso’s resident managers Nyssa and Regan Berryman at my villa. In fact, I think the word villa is a little understated, to my surprise my ‘villa’ was an enormous 600sqm resort-style residence perfectly suited for a family or group of friends. Nyssa and Regan assured me everything and anything was possible, all I had to do was ask. As I ventured inside, I was impressed by my surroundings and the fully stocked fridge and pantry – a request I made from Australia before I left. There was also complimentary French champagne and flowers plus tea, coffee and milk with a few extras which formed my ‘starter pack’. A private chef made me a delicious lunch and a few hours later I had a beauty therapist arrive to give me a traditional Bo-Bo style massage and pedicure in the privacy and comfort
islandliving | 69 pacific
of my own villa. I spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing by the pool with a cocktail as the sun went down, pondering what I would like to do. Guest relations Manager Sofiya Khan popped by, as promised, to arrange my itinerary for the following days. The next morning, I was picked up from Naisoso’s private marina for a day of fishing, snorkelling and boating around the majestic Mamanuca islands. Next up was a morning cooking class, followed by some stand-up paddleboarding and some much-needed R&R on my own private deck, with my iTunes coming through the sound system, overlooking the water and
the Sleeping Giants mountains. Fiji is so relaxing and simply beautiful and the holiday homes at Naisoso Island really let you capture and self-design a vacation to suit your needs. Having reviewed some of the world’s most beautiful resorts, I was really impressed by what Naisoso Island Resort Villas delivers. You can do as much or as little as you like in terms of creating your own itinerary so it really is the best of both worlds where, just as Nyssa and Regan assured, “Anything is possible.”
Contact details. Havannah: thehavannah.com Narawan: narawanvanuatu.com Naisoso:naisosoislandresortvillas.com
RENT A CAR AND DISCOVER THE HIDDEN PORT VILA LOCATION DE VOITURES
T +678
70 | Islandliving pacific
26 517
DISCOVER PARADISE YOUR WAY F +678 26 516
EN ROUTE POUR VOTRE PARADIS
E europcar@vanuatu.com.vu
W www.europcar.vu
Narawan Retreat (opposite page) is a ‘come as you are’ property, welcoming friends or couples. Samoa Point (left) is the stunning private beach at The Havannah Resort. Naisoso - absolute luxury in Fiji (above and below).
Narawan Retreat, Vanuatu
Narawan is a unique absolute beachfront property; the ultimate in relaxed tropical accommodation. Set over three acres of tropically landscaped grounds the property and buildings have been specifically designed to be both luxurious and durable in all tropical weather conditions. Its boutique accommodation hosts only two couples at a time and as you book the entire property regardless of whether you are a couple or a group of two couples you are assured a private relaxing holiday, be it an unforgettable
romantic honeymoon or a fun holiday with another couple. The Beach Villas are ocean-facing stand-alone structures designed to maximize the ever changing view of the Pacific Ocean and allow the ocean breeze to flow through. Each has a super king bed that is perfectly placed to take in the ocean views without lifting your head from the pillow. The very spacious en-suite and dressing room look out to your own private and sheltered landscaped garden with an outdoor shower and open fire. The ocean-facing deck is the spot to unwind with a book and relax on the sun lounges. All windows and doors are fully screened to ensure a bug free environment. •
Experience Majuro, Marshall Islands from the comfort of an MMI Rental Car Majuro Motors Inc. Rental Cars is the best way to get around Majuro. We offer the best rates in town at two convenient locations - the airport and in town. Cut out this add Compact 4-door Sedans from $50.00 per day. for 10% off! Full Size Cars from $65.00 per day. l 4WD SUVs from $85.00 per day. Book your hotel l Buses from $125.00 per day. through us! All major credit cards accepted. HIRE FOR 7 DAYS, ONLY PAY FOR 6! l
T: +692 625 4424/4422 F: +692 625 4821 E: majuro.motors @gmail.com
l
islandliving | 71 pacific
Iririki Island Resort & Spa is a unique island paradise set amongst spectacular tropical landscapes. This 69 acres of stunning private island is the highest rated resort in Vanuatu with a 4.5 star rating and hosts Vanuatu’s most romantic restaurant - Michener’s Restaurant, along with other award winning restaurants.
To help keep guests connected while on the island, Iririki Island Resort & Spa has upgraded their IT Systems with Wi-Fi access across the island and improved transport with brand new ferries and island buggies.
With the new and recent renovations, you will experience fully refurbished resort rooms and restaurants, the new luxury day spa nestled at the peak and the launch of the brand new Jewel Casino.
The vast number of entertainment options and scenic garden walks are enough to keep you on the island with the all-inclusive approach, making it an ideal stress-free blissful holiday. So come experience Vanuatu’s favourite resort to understand why Iririki Island Resort & Spa is the Jewel of the South Pacific.
Iririki Island Resort & Spa has also become Vanuatu’s first fully solar powered resort with solar energy across the entire island and an environmentally friendly stand point by adding its own market garden to source their own produce daily. 72 | Islandliving pacific
To book, please visit www.iririki.com
islandliving | 73 paciďŹ c
Christiana Cooks
f o t r a e h d n a d a e h The
CABBAGE Christiana Kaluscha unfurls the leaves of her favourite green vegetable and creates an array of tasty tropical treats from the local versions of the extensive brassica family.
T
he cabbage (brassica) family is huge, and includes everything from the familiar red, white or green varieties with tightly packed leaves, to cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts as well as pak choi, popular in Asian cookery. There still remains a little local problem with the classification of what is what, as more or less everything green and leafy is called cabbage here. Contributing to the confusion is that it has so many names throughout the Pacific: Island cabbage, bele, pele, aibika, hibiscus cabbage and slippery cabbage. Due to the wide range of cabbage and insufficient space to write about all of them, this time, I will stick to the species which grow in a tropical climate and are found in our local markets. The most popular for Ni-Vanuatu is ‘ailan kapis’. Locals coming from the market with a bunch of island cabbage tucked under the arm is a common sight in the islands. What makes it so popular? One of the reasons may be that it is so easy to grow. It is propagated from cuttings, which are 15 to 30 cm long. The new plant is ready to harvest just two to three months after planting. A healthy plant will produce for one to two years.
74 | Islandliving pacific
The leaves vary in size and shape, depending on the variety. They are very tasty to eat, apart from a slightly slippery texture, which some people do not like. Nutritionally they are very rich. Its high nutritional value may also be responsible for its popularity. The protein content of the leaves, at five per cent is very high. It also contains high levels of vitamin A, vitamin C and calcium, as well as significant amounts of iron. So it will make a valuable addition to any diet. One of the local recipes for island cabbage is to wrap pieces of fish in the leaves and cook them in coconut cream. Another is to mix it with mackerel and onions and lightly fry. Almost any vegetable recipe can be adapted to include island cabbage. Pick young leaves and add in the last 5-10 minutes of cooking, or use the leaves sparingly in a salad as they contain mucilage and can make your finished dish quite slimy if too many are added. Older leaves will definitely need to be cooked to remove the mucilage. Large leaves can be used as wraps and to make dolmades (wraps). The flowers are also edible and can be eaten either raw or cooked.
PICTURES: Christiana Kaluscha.
The The Pacifi Pacificc is is packed packed with with cabbage cabbage -- whether whether correctly correctly named named or or not not -- everything everything green green is is practically practically called called cabbage. cabbage.
The cabbage family actually includes cauliflower, broccoli and even brussel sprouts.
Alean Kapis with ginger, coconut milk and roasted Nangae nuts Ingredients
• 1 bunch island cabbage • 3 cm piece of fresh ginger, grated • 1 medium size onion, chopped into small dices • 4 cloves garlic, cut into fine slices • 1 red chilli, chopped • ¼ cup vegetable oil • 1 cup chicken stock • 1 cup coconut milk • Sea salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste • ½ cup roasted Nangae nuts, cut into small pieces
Method
• Wash cabbage, remove stems and roughly cut the leaves into pieces • Heat the oil in a wok or casserole, add onions, garlic, ginger & chilli and sauté for 3 – 4 minutes • Add island cabbage and stir • Add chicken stock and simmer for 5 minutes • Add coconut milk, salt and pepper to taste and simmer for another 3 minutes • Sprinkle with roasted Nangae nuts and serve
One of the many varieties of Alean (or island) cabbage to be found in the Pacific (above).
with rice, grilled meat or fish of your choice.
islandliving | 75 pacific
Cabbage rolls with fish stuffing (makes 8 rolls) Ingredients
•1 green cabbage or savoy cabbage (I prefer the latter, but not available in many Pacific nations) • 500 g fish fillet, mahi mahi, snapper, wahoo or parrot fish • 1 onion, finely chopped • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 2 Tsp. extra virgin olive oil • 1 Tsp. lime or lemon juice • 1 egg • 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard for stuffing • 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard for sauce • 1 Tbsp. light sour cream • 1 chilli (optional) • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste • 1 glass of dry white wine • 2 cups chicken stock • ½ cup crème fraiche • Olive oil, ghee or butter
Method
Cabbage • Cut around the core of the cabbage with a sharp knife and carefully take off 8 big leaves • Bring a large, wide saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil. Add cabbage leaves and cook for 2 to 4 minutes or until softened; drain and set aside Stuffing • Mince fish fillets with a sharp knife or cleaver • Add chopped onions, garlic, chilli, mustard, egg, lime juice, 1 Tbsp. olive oil and salt and pepper to taste • Mix well together and leave to marinate in the fridge for 30 minutes
76 | Islandliving pacific
Preparation • Divide the fish mixture evenly between the 8 rolls and place in centre of each cabbage leaf, roll up starting with the thicker part, tuck in the ends and secure the rolls with butcher’s string. • Heat oil and butter in a casserole and brown the cabbage rolls on all sides until dark golden (the caramelizing gives that special taste) • Add the wine, bring to the boil and add chicken stock • Simmer for 20 minutes, add salt and pepper to taste • Remove the rolls from the casserole and set aside • Carefully remove the string • Mix the cream with mustard, add to the sauce and simmer until it thickens • Return the cabbage rolls to the casserole, warm through and serve with boiled potatoes
“My grandma made these cabbage rolls with savoy cabbage and meat filling instead of fish. You can easily replace the fish with 250 g of pork mince and 250 g of beef mince. Everything else remains the same. Enjoy!”
Choux au Riesling – sautéed This is one of my all time favourites
Ingredients
• ½ head of green cabbage, roughly shredded • 350 g chipolata sausage, casing removed • ¼cup butter • 1 medium onion, diced • 1 medium size carrot, diced • 1 small stick celery, thinly sliced • 1 Tbsp. toasted caraway seeds • 2 cups Riesling • ½ cup chicken stock • 1 Tsp. thyme • 1 Tsp. freshly ground black pepper • ½ cup sour cream
• 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard • Salt and pepper to taste • ¼ cup chopped parsley • ¼ cup Noiilly Prat (French dry Vermouth)
Method
• Melt butter in a saucepan over medium heat, add sausage meat cut into small pieces and fry until coloured, add onion, carrots and celery. Cook 4-5 minutes. Add cabbage and continue cooking until it is golden brown and caramelized. Stir constantly. • Season with salt, pepper and caraway seeds. Then add wine, chicken stock and thyme. • Reduce heat to a simmer.
My Asian version of coleslaw (serves 4) A refreshing and easy to prepare salad.
Ingredients
cabbage with Riesling (serves 2)
• ¼ head of green cabbage, about 500 g, finely shredded • 1 medium carrot, shredded • 1 Tsp. cumin seeds, dry roasted and pestled to a fine powder • 2 Tbsp. sesame seeds, toasted • Cornichons (optional) Vinaigrette Makes about 250 ml, you can keep the rest in a jar in the fridge for weeks. • 6 Tbsp. fish sauce • 6 Tbsp. rice vinegar • 3 Tbsp. lime juice • 2 Tsp. sesame oil • 1 red chilli, diced • 3 Tbsp. sugar or sirop de canne • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 2 Tbsp. peanut oil
Method
• Put shredded cabbage and carrots in a large bowl, add vinegar mixture and toss until well mixed. Cover and chill for at least 2 hours before serving. • Add roasted cumin seeds and toss again • Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and serve•
Continue to cook 2530 minutes, stirring occasionally. • Combine cream and mustard and add to sauce and simmer for 3 minutes, stirring constantly • Add Noiilly Prat, simmer for another couple of minutes, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve with boiled potatoes or mash. I recommend making a bigger quantity of this delicious stew, it keeps well in the fridge for another couple of days and tastes even better when reheated.
islandliving | 77 pacific
78 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
islandliving | 79 paciďŹ c
healthy living
JUST SAY N s t i b a h d a to b M
ost of us have at least one bad habit and whether it be nail-biting, knuckle cracking, late night snacking or persistent throat clearing once formed they can very hard to break. Although none of these things are exceptionally detrimental to your health (although some can be, such as smoking), bad habits certainly aren’t beneficial in any way, especially not for our partners and work colleagues that have to put up with them on a daily basis. With a little willpower and some simple techniques not only can you break these annoying habits but you can replace them with good habits that will lead to happier healthier you (and no doubt those around you).
Create awareness
If the experts all agree on one thing it’s that you have to really want to make the change. The first step is to try and understand why it is you do this thing and what triggers it, if you procrastinate, for example, is it because you find the task stressful? Consider how things would improve if you didn’t put things off. Rather than thinking of something else to do than the work at hand, picture yourself doing it and focus on the positive emotions that come with the thought of completing the task. Psychiatrist Judson Brewer (as discussed in his TED talk) believes the key to breaking a bad habit is to be mindful of it. That is, actually tasting and smelling each cigarette you smoke to really understand how disgusting it is.
Change your environment
Try to avoid slipping into an unconscious behavioural pattern by deliberately changing the situation where you usually commit your habit. For example, if you are an over-eater, change the environment where you eat your meals. It may be that you eat in front of the television and the distraction encourages you to eat more than you need to. Set a place for yourself at the table instead and once again be mindful of your actions, be aware of the meal you are eating and how much you are consuming.
80 | Islandliving pacific
Create an obstacle
Creating barriers which obstruct the course that usually lead you to your habit help break the routine of engaging in your behaviour. For example, if you are a habitual email checker, constantly picking you phone to see if anyone has made contact with you or to check your social media feeds, consider turning off your wifi during certain parts of the day or logging out of your Facebook when you are at work so you have to make a conscious decision to log back in to check it. Anything you can do to break up the behaviour pattern that leads to your bad habit will help to break it. Alternatively create a punishment for yourself, add 10 minutes to your workout for every chocolate biscuit or fine yourself five dollars every time you bite your nails, this will keep you accountable and mindful for your actions.
Find support
Speak to you friends and family about your plan to quit your bad habit. This will hopefully provide you with support and encouragement and also create more accountability – you don’t want to let them and yourself down! And if possible try and find someone else in your network who wants to break the same habit as you.
Reward yourself
Create a positive mind-set around breaking your habit by setting up a reward system, a habit can be hard to break if you feel you are just denying yourself something. If you smoke, put the money away that you would normally spend on cigarettes for something that you really want (a holiday or expensive pair of shoes perhaps). Or for more immediate satisfaction reward yourself every time you conquer the desire to break your resolve. If you’re always late for work for example, reward yourself with a nice lunch every day you make it there on time, until the habit is broken.
Don't give up
Be prepared to fail, behaviourally it often takes more than one attempt at making a permanent change. If you have a stressful day and bite all your fingernails to the quick, just start again tomorrow with the resolve that this next time you are closer to achieving your goal.
Replace it
Once a behaviour has become so ingrained in our actions it is extremely hard to eliminate it, it is much easier to replace the bad habit with another action. If you are a knuckle cracker for example, go to the sink and drink a glass of water when you find yourself about to do it. Ideally switch your bad habit with a good one. Replace that second, third and fourth coffee with green juice or a cigarette with a walk around the block. You can do it! •
PICTURE: Alena Brozova / 123RF
You don't need to be captive to your bad habits, whatever they may be, from smoking to nail biting to an unhealthy attachment to your phone or social media. Georgie Gordon comes up with some strategies for 'getting over it'.
islandliving | 81 pacific
Beefhouse Bar & Grill is the best place in town for breakfast and lunch. A mouthwatering mix of mediterranean and western food.
facebook/BeefhouseBar&GrillVanuatu - Phone 25597 -
The besT MediTerranean-sTyle dining on The harbour sitting on the edge of Port Vila harbour le Cafe du Village restaurant, bar and cafe enjoys the ambience of a greek island or French quai with food and wine to match. The recently refreshed menu, and wine list, features plenty of local seafood and Vanuatu’s famous organic beef and revives the culinary traditions of this iconic eatery. Whether you’re
82 | Islandliving pacific
looking for a romantic dinner, a lazy lunch or a hearty, delicious breakfast, le Cafe du Village has it all. open from 8am until late – Tuesday to sunday Call for reservations +678 27789. email : cafeduvillage@vanuatu.com.vu see us on Facebook and Trip advisor
Dining Out
Four Of The Best
The dining scene in the Pacific continues to expand and revitalise as newcomers open and old favourites re-invent themselves. Here we try four outstanding examples.
Left: The team behind the train – Job, head chef Joahn and Ricky. Right: One out of the box – the perfect lunch choice.
PICTURES: Christiana Kaluscha
All aboard for sushi
A recent addition and novelty to Port Vila’s restaurant scene is the Japanese sushi train named SHIRO. Located on the first floor of the new Tana Russet complex, SHIRO is a cosy and comfortably air-conditioned restaurant with a modern open design, lots of timber and glass walls, about a dozen stools at the sushi bar and half a dozen tables. Sitting at the bar, you can watch the sushi chefs Joahn, Job and Ricky preparing the delicious bites consisting of small balls or rolls of vinegarflavoured cold rice served with a garnish of raw seafood, egg, meat or vegetables. The sushi plates play merry-go-round on the ever-rotating train, tempting you to try all that’s on offer. There’s an almost orgasmic delight in popping piece after piece of a food so elegantly assembled and presented while also being low in fat, high in umami and arguably a creation born of perfection. Some say the combination of raw fish and rice is an acquired taste, but for the converted, sushi is nothing but the zenith of simple, unadulterated pleasure. The unmistakable taste of vinegar, the glutinous rice, the texture of silken sliced fish, one could and should crave sushi at least as much as a hamburger. While SHIRO focuses on its sushi, it offers as well a choice of deep fried dishes, hot pots and a very reasonably priced lunch box with fresh tuna sashimi, sushi roll, teriyaki fish and noodle, miso soup, rice and fruit and salad. The sushi selection consists of mini rolls, big rolls, ships, nigiri and sashimi.
My favourites are the blow-torch seared marinated Unagi (eel), Salmon Avo (fresh salmon slice, avocado and mayonnaise), Ebi Tempura (deep fried crumbed prawn, avocado and mayonnaise) and California Roll, a delicious combination of fresh salmon, crab salad, seaweed and crunchy cucumber, decorated with flying fish roe, simply mouth watering! We also loved the fresh tuna and salmon sashimi, teriyaki chicken roll and many others. You can either choose from the cruising plates on the train or select from the menu and order your favourite dish, which is then freshly prepared in front of you. All are served with complimentary wasabi, soy and pickled ginger. There is a fair choice of wines, cold beers served in a stylish iced glass, hot or cold sake, soft drinks and green tea. The pricing system uses the typical sushi coloured plate system where each colour of plate corresponds to a price. The prices range from VT250 to VT700. The quality of sushi is generally excellent at SHIRO, and exhibits a buttery melt-in-your-mouth intensity. I highly recommend SHIRO for lunch or dinner with friends and family or, if you are lonely but hungry and want a quiet meal while watching the chefs preparing the delicious bites in front of you, go for it! Opening times Lunch 11.30 am to 2 pm Dinner 5.30 pm to 9 pm Phone: 678 23002 Manager: Akiko Takano. • – Christiana Kaluscha
islandliving | 83 pacific
Above Above left: left: Cafe Cafe du du Village Village sits sits right right on on the the harbour harbour and and oozes oozes Mediterranean Mediterranean charm charm with with food food to to match. match. Above Above and and right: right: The The Grand Grand Pacifi Pacific’s c’s
Village people
Le Cafe du Village restaurant and bar is a Mediterraneanstyle Port Vila institution which has enjoyed pride of place on the harbourfront opposite Iririki Island for many years. Over that time there have been several changes of management but it is now in the capable hands of Simon Troman who is determined to revive its reputation as one of the capital’s must-visit eateries. The location is stunning with an absolute waterfront position which also serves as a wharf from which the Meridian sunset cruise departs each evening. The menu retains a number of old favourites including the entree seafood chowder with crusty bread which is one of the best I’ve tasted. There’s also a Spanish seafood soup with aioli and garlic toast and a few Asian goodies too, like pork and prawn spring rolls and Thai beef salad. For mains try the
84 | Islandliving pacific
tropical geographical anomaly – steak and kidney pie, doesn’t matter if the weather’s hot this dish is worth overheating for. There’s also local eye fillet steak and lobster along with a good beef curry, so a cosmopolitan selection to suit all tastes. There’s a kid’s menu too so take the rugrats. The wine list is extensive featuring some great drops from New Zealand, Australia and France at reasonable prices. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 8am until late – Tuesday to Sunday. Call for reservations +678 27789.
The Grand Dame of Suva
The Grand Pacific Hotel is Suva’s answer to Raffles in Singapore, a colonial era masterpiece recalling the days of pith helmets and elegant cocktails by the pool. But while tradition is important here that doesn’t mean there isn’t innovation and fresh offerings on the food front. The hotel has just
Prince Albert outdoor dining area, send a postcard while you’re there! Far right: The Beefhouse courtyard where there’s plenty of meat.
announced a menu upgrade and a new chef for the Prince Albert restaurant. This fine diner is now in the hands of Mo (for Mohammed) Arun who is Nadi born and raised with an award-winning CV honed in some of Fiji and New Zealand’s best dining rooms where for three years running he was the recipient of the ‘Entertainment Gold Award’ for Best Fine Dining Restaurant. He plans to showcase the flavours and traditions of Pacifica by concentrating on the best of local produce, food that smells great and tastes even better. One example being Vudi Vakasoso a dessert which pays homage to a Fijian favourite featuring plantain bananas poached in coconut milk, infused with cinnamon and cardamom before getting a drizzle of sugar cane caramel and a mint garnish. Address: The Grand Pacific Hotel, Victoria Parade, Suva. For reservations, contact the restaurant manager on +679 3222010 or email: restaurant@gph.com.fj
Show me the meat Another Vila landmark is Beefhouse Grill and Bar Restaurant which has recently acquired the services of Israeli chef Maor Sahar. Maor is another cosmopolitan cook who has done time as a pastry chef, the producer of seven different TV cookery shows, stints in restaurants in Amsterdam, and Berlin, ran his own boutique catering company and expresses a particular fondness for French/Italian fusion cuisine. His favourite dish is Bouillabaisse. The Beefhouse menu is a hearty mix of great snacks and substantial meat dishes (as you’d expect with that name). Try their ‘voluptuous’ lamb and beef kebab, a range of burgers or the overnight-stewed beef asado, an entrecote steak, chicken shawarma or a classic bolognese bavette. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner on Vila’s main street opposite the Bred bank. Phone: +678 25 597. – Craig Osment
islandliving | 85 pacific
Marine Consultancy Services Vanuatu’s Number One Inter-Island Freight and Passenger Service
Two landing craft vessels with weekly departure from Santo & Port Vila. Servicing Ambae, Pentecost, Ambrym & Epi.
LC Brisk, 25m x 8m bow loading landing craft.
LC Tina 1, 40m x 11m stern loading landing craft.
General freight, heavy machinery passenger services. Offices in Port Vila & Santo, private facilities & storage.
Available for private charter For enquiries phone 678 36517 or email enquiries@mcs.vu
www.vanuatufreightcompanies.com
86 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
islandliving | 87 paciďŹ c
glorious gardens
Rain & Rebirth g n i n n i g e new b a
Gardening Editor Carolyn Ernst welcomes the rain and advises on how garden restoration can be made easier after cyclone damage and a dry spell. The secret is to divide the chores into manageable chunks and get on with it.
“I “I love love listening listening to to the the sound sound of of the the rain rain on on aa tin tin roof roof and and will will never never cease cease to to be be amazed amazed at at the the difference difference to to the the whole whole landscape landscape that that one one night night
One area at a time
The first job is to remove anything that has not survived, this includes the palms I was unsure about after the cyclone, I had hoped some of the marginal ones might survive and I have been lucky, about 25% of them have. The palms I propped up after the cyclone will also go, while still growing, I do not believe they will ever stand safely on their own again. The shrubs all need pruning and the gaps need filling. As in all
88 | Islandliving pacific
large jobs the secret is turn it into manageable bits, so the garden will be divided into sections and we will do one small area at a time. This will allow a sense of control, so I will only need to focus on one area at a time, as well as a sense of progress as we complete each section I will be looking to see what plants have survived and also what has come back after the rain. Many plants died off but I know, or I’m hoping that some of them are lying dormant just waiting for that life giving rain. From this extended dry, lessons must be learnt, the tender plants that have struggled or have not survived need to be planted together where it is easy to give them the extra attention they need. The best place for them is close to the house, somewhere where I will be able to see them as well as monitor how they are coping and give them the attention they need when it is required. Each plant that has had problems needs to be evaluated, are they that special they deserve the extra attention required and are they worth it? For some like the calatheas the answer will be yes but for some it will be no and they will not be replaced.
Prune and reshape
The first job is to prune the existing shrubs, reshape them and let light into the middle of the plant. There are many books on the proper way to prune but I once watched a guy prune his fruit trees with a chain saw, at no detriment of the trees, so do not be frightened, just go for it. The overall principle is to shorten the height to a manageable level and then simplify the centre, bringing light and air to the middle of the plant. I find it easier to start with taking the top out to get
PICTURE: Craig Osment
A
fter a very long wait, the rain has finally come and now is the time to begin the job of replanting, over one year since cyclone Pam hit Vanuatu. Due to a very severe El Nino this last year we have had to wait for our rainy season to begin before we could begin any major replanting, who would have thought that this would be in late March, it has been the driest January and February ever recorded in Vanuatu. The task in front of us is huge, even though the fallen debris from the cyclone has been removed we have had a number of large trees and plants that survived the cyclone, only to curl up and die toward the end of last year. Some of these deaths occurred in areas we were watering so after consultations with other people having the same problem and some actual soil temperature readings, we now know our gardens in the last year have not only suffered from a major cyclone but have also been affected by lack of rain and very high soil temperatures. For some plants like the mondo grass the soil temperature is above their tolerance levels and I believe for some of the bigger trees, their roots damaged from the cyclone have been unable to cope with both the shortage of water and high soil temperature.
of rain brings. Plants seem to instantly revive and seem to be greener within 12 hours.”
the height I want then start with the centre, one branch at a time, first getting rid of the worst branches, the ones rubbing into one another, the ones going in the wrong direction etc. and before you know it it’s done After pruning the next question is where to start and which plants to replant first. In any major garden makeover the first consideration has to be your big trees, these are the bones of the garden and everything is built around them. I will begin with looking at what trees and large palms are missing that I do want to replace. Remember this replanting is a great opportunity to give your garden a fresh new look and there is absolutely no reason to replace everything and make it look the same as before. After the cyclone, I can once more see the ocean on the horizon but also the lights from my neighbour’s house are now clearly visible. My challenge is to now choose the plants that will hide these lights so that I can once more pretend there is only me in the whole universe, but still retain my ocean views. The sight of the departing cruise liners lit up at night floating across the horizon seemingly in the middle of the jungle is pretty awesome.
More frangipanis
I will be looking at what has survived, I know that certain plants are more tolerant of high winds and lack of rain, I know I will be planting many more bottle and spindle palms, they were totally unaffected by the cyclonic winds and dry conditions. The huge single trunked fish tails (four out of four gone) will not be replanted and the fan palms Livistonia chinensis will only be replanted in very sheltered positions. More frangipani are a definite, even though they are soft and break easily they
have all regrown as have many of the new ones I planted after the cyclone from all the planting material available. Remember the secret of planting frangipani cuttings is to allow the stump to dry off for at least three weeks before replanting. There seems to be no limit to the size of the cutting planted. I planted some rather large branches, over two metres high and most of them seem to have survived and flowered in the last year. Bauhinias (orchid trees) are another good choice, again they are a softer wood so break off before being completely uprooted and have all regrown again. With some judicial pruning they will eventually regrow into beautiful trees again, far quicker than replanting small trees. Our native gardenia tannaensis is a beautiful tree that needs to be used carefully, they are very shallow rooted and so should only be planted in very sheltered positions and away from buildings. Damage to buildings from flying debris and falling trees is another consideration. Since the cyclone we have removed a large tree from beside the house which I spent the whole night of the cyclone worrying about. My husband has never liked it so I let him remove it, next cyclone I will have one less thing to worry about. I have however kept the large natapoa that gives shade to the back of the house. We removed all the branches right back to the trunk prior to the cyclone and in the past year it is nearly back to its original size, providing much appreciated shade once more.
The right light
The amount and type of shade required also requires thought. A common mistake when planting a garden for the
islandliving | 89 pacific
first time is to over plant shade trees. This is because a new garden is very exposed so all the plants suffer from lack of shade and in resolving the problem, most of us overdo it and we end up with too much shade. Now is a good time to make sure your garden has a good mixture of both shady and sunlight areas providing the right habitat for as wide a range of plants as possible. Once the decision on the bigger plants has been made then you will need to look to the next layer. Try to visualise how the top layer is going to look, do you need something that is going to grow in the shade or will they get half or even full light? The old rule of thumb seems to work, flowering plants do not like full shade and remember many of the crotons will lose their colour in full shade and many plants like the protection of dappled or half shade. It is also good to remember that paths and roads that have too much shade do not dry out and are therefore prone to getting wet and muddy in high traffic areas during the wet.
Don’t forget the fragrance
When choosing plants remember perfume and don’t forget the birds and butterflies. It is these little creatures that add an extra dimension to your garden and are loved by adults and children alike. Another small creature we sometimes forget about is the little busy bees, whose honey we enjoy on our toast but who are also the pollinators of many flowers, fruits and commercial crops including many grasses. The final tier is the bottom or ground cover, this will be a
90 | Islandliving pacific
little difficult at first because many of our shade loving plants have had an extra hard time this year because they have not only suffered from the dry but many of them have also been exposed to the full sun from the gaps in the canopy. The secret of a good ground cover is the solution to good weed control. Weeds will mainly grow in areas of exposed soil and this is the reason that we have had such a big problem with weeds this year and this will continue until we get our ground cover back to where it was before the cyclone. Once an area is completed then it will be fertilised for an added bit of TLC and hopefully the rains will continue long enough for all the new plants to get established before this year’s dry. In the work plan is a small nursery to plant up the many cuttings of the plants I want to use, this will be much cheaper than having to buy them all again. During the rainy season I have had a certain success with planting cuttings directly into the position required. I love listening to the sound of the rain on the tin roof and will never cease to be amazed at the difference to the whole landscape that one night of rain brings. Plants seem to instantly revive and seem to be greener within 12 hours, the same as the rains seem to bring with them fresh hope and the joy of planting is good for the soul. We are also told that struggle is good for the soul so it is good to remember the past year but now with the rain it is time to look forward to a new garden and a new beginning. Happy gardening- Carolyn.
PICTURES: Carolyn Ernst
Above left: Spindle Palm; top right: Nataphoa tree regrown alongside the house; above: Frangipani and spider lillies after the rain.
CHARTERED ACCOUNTANTS & BUSINESS ADVISERS
AUDIT ASSISTANCE JURIDIQUE COMPTABILITÉ CONSEIL
contact@ajc-vanuatu.com | 1
FLOOR GOVANT BUILDING | PO BOX 1276 | PORT VILA TEL+ 678 24 404 | FAX+ 678 23 692 | www.ajc-vanuatu.com
AJC_2015_170X58_BAT2.indd 1
ST
An Independent Correspondent Member Of
26/06/15 15:39
islandliving | 91 pacific
the Bay ASIAN & WESTERN FUSION
A range of delicious food, including pizzas.
Fresh coffee daily!
THE BAY RESTAURANT MAIN ISLAND RING ROAD, ANIBARE, NAURU PH: (+674) 557 1111
Capelle & Partner Supermarket Supermarket and and Hardware Hardware Nauru’s One-Stop-Shop
Capelle & Partner | Pacific & Occidental Ewa Beach, Nauru Ph: +674 557 1000 | +674 557 1001 | Mob: +674 557 1020
www.capellepartner.com 92 | Islandliving pacific
The fishing trip of a lifetime! Ph: (+674) 557 1001
equatorialgamefishingcharters
Servin g Na
uru for
51 years
Ewa Lodge Accommodation and Car Rental. Ph: (+674) 557 1055
Known to be the best accommodation on Nauru
EQUATORIAL LOGISTICS Local agent for Matson
P: (+674) 557 1999 E: equatoriallogistics@eftel.net.au island islandliving living| |93 3 paciďŹ c pacific
n w o t s n e e Qu
Lakeside Lapidary They call it the jewel in the crown of New Zealand’s Southland this scenic gem of a town is only getting better with age. Previously, rightly lauded for its ski slopes, Queenstown now throbs with tourist activity year-round and is as much a culinary destination as a centre of adventure. Craig Osment revisits one of his favourite places.
R
elentlessly quaint, chic and trendy, this bijoux borough is set among magnificent mountains and towering trees on the shores of Lake Wakatipu at the foot of the Remarkables mountain range in Otago on New Zealand’s South Island. In spite of a surge in tourism and increasing numbers of direct flights the town has retained its charm and character and indeed has only improved its offering to tourists and residents alike. Sympathetically redeveloped while retaining lots of original buildings, the place is booming. With a resident population of around 20,000 you’d be forgiven for thinking it may be more like 200,000 based on the numbers of people wandering its lanes and lakefront. That much overused cliché (is there any other kind?) about jewels in crowns is an entirely apt description of this sparkling chiaroscuro of water, sky, snow and trees. The ozone is palpably crisp and invigorating, the scenery is defined by sharply contrasting layers of greenery, some of it growing vertically up the sides of mountains and blue cloudless skies – well in summertime. When the weather does close in the views are equally spectacular if a little more threatening.
Every season’s high season
Indeed it used to be that Queenstown was a winter destination for skiers and the snow set but summer (the après ski season) has now taken over as the holiday high
94 | Islandliving pacific
point with expanded flight schedules filled with tourists keen to eat, drink and participate in what has become the town’s major attraction – hundreds of adventure pursuits. You can bungy jump, ride white water, jet boat on the Shotover River, mountain bike, paraglide, hang glide, sky dive, fish, hike (or tramp as they prefer to call it in NZ) or just take the gondola (cable car) up Bob’s Peak which is the steepest cable car journey in the Southern Hemisphere. This will take you 450 metres above town and offer 220-degree views of the area from the top. The only way to see more is to join the hang gliders hovering even further above. A more sedentary way to catch the views at water level is to take a trip up the lake on the steamship TSS Earnshaw, which has been plying the lake for decades and is the oldest tourist attraction in town. Built in 1912 the twinscrew steamer is the last remaining commercial coal-fired ship in the hemisphere. But wait, there’s more. Probably the most popular attraction is the food and wine scene. This little alpine village is littered with bars, pubs, restaurants and coffee houses and what is likely the world’s most popular hamburger purveyor. You could simply wander aimlessly through the streets and lanes and pick a place at random and find food and drink to match the best anywhere in the world but if you really want to do the haute epicure thing, then a little research might be useful.
In The Neighbourhood
This area is renowned for its scenery, which is saying something when you’re in the middle of the South Island which is end to end scenery. Here is the view to the northern snow-capped peaks on the Glenorchy-Queenstown Road
islandliving | 95 paciďŹ c
At great expense to my liver and digestive tract, I undertook a few well-planned dining excursions along with the more spontaneous surprises.
Winery with the works
96 | Islandliving pacific
Above: It doesn’t get much quainter than Arrowtown, site of a gold
PICTURES: Craig Osment + NZ Tourism
One of the best has to be a lunch at Amisfield, a winery and bistro about a 15-minute drive from town and not far from the delightful historic village of Arrowtown (more on that later). Here you’ll find not only an extensive list of estate-grown wines – mostly whites with Pinot Noir their only red offering – but the food is so good that you end up almost ignoring the views of the Remarkables and adjacent Lake Hayes. While there is a tantalising à la carte menu I’d suggest you take the ‘Trust the Chef’ option which leaves the choice entirely to the chef’s discretion and utilises the freshest local ingredients of the season. The meal includes an amuse bouche, bread and four courses which are mixture of shared and individual plates. This can be had for $75 per head without wine, or for another 50 bucks they choose matching drinks on your behalf. There’s a dinner version of this experience which adds more food and another $20 to the bill. When you know the chef’s credentials this has to be a gourmet bargain. New Zealander Vaughan Mabee began his cooking career in Auckland before heading off to the US and Europe where he worked in a number of Michelin-starred kitchens including Noma in Copenhagen. This provenance explains why every course was perfectly timed, presented and constructed. From the spectacular amuse bouche which was a caviar-based crispy creation to the hare rillette dotted with miniature cherries through to the delicate local fish and tender beef. And the outdoor, umbrella-shaded courtyard is set around a delightful pond with a couple of sculptural artworks (by Phil Price) standing sentinel while in the garden there are works by Chris Booth due to a gallery affiliation with Nadine Milne from Arrowtown. Back in town, enjoy the extended twilight by aimlessly roaming the lanes but make sure you happen to wander past Bardeaux (between Mall Street and Searle Lane). This intimate little bar is located in a timber cottage with a wide verandah fronting a fire-lit room with bar and clubby leather lounge chairs. While the food on offer is basic (they don’t run to a kitchen) the wine list has to be one of the most extensive anywhere, with pages of whiskeys and Champagne too. While this venue is one of four owned by the group, it retains a unique character and is a great spot for a pre-dinner cocktail or glass of wine, or an after dinner tipple. Not far away is No. 5 Church Lane which sits below the Spire Boutique hotel with ten luxurious contemporary suites and as good a room as you’ll find in town with the possible exception of Eichardt’s Private Hotel around the corner on the waterfront and part of the same group. No. 5 is a stylish bar/restaurant/coffee shop with a terrific selection of food designed to be shared. I just had to keep going back for
rush in the mid nineteenth century and more lately a movie location preserved in perfect condition for the delight of tourists.
Above top : Queenstown is the adventure capital of the country and prides itself on the availability of all sorts of adrenalininducing activities. If tying a rope to your leg and jumping into the clear blue sky is the way you like to pop your eyeballs then QT has several options on offer. This site is the Ledge, 400 metres above town and can be jumped at night too if that’s your preference. Above: The Shotover river is famously the home to a selection of exhilarating jet boat rides through the narrow canyons lining the river. Left: Skiing remains the hot winter activity, get up to Coronet Peak and off piste. Far left: No. 5 Church Lane is typical of the town’s outdoor eating scene – relaxed and casual with sophisticated menu offerings.
islandliving | 97 pacific
Above Above left: left: Take Take the the cable cable car car gondola gondola to to the the top top of of Bob’s Bob’s Peak. Peak. Top Top row row left left to to right: right: Late Late afternoon afternoon light light on on Lake Lake Wakatipu; Wakatipu; and and yes, yes, there there
more barbecued Cardrona Merino Lamb ribs (marinated then chargrilled and served with harissa, babaganoush, cumin and yoghurt) and venison and Pinot Noir paté along with smoked cod fishcakes and roast beetroot falafel. They also do pizza and a range of mezze dishes – very sophisticated and funky. Speaking of funky, there’s a curious and quirky Queenstown culinary phenomenon called Fergburgers, known locally as Ferg’s. There is almost no time during their 21-hour day that Ferg’s doesn’t have a queue outside, it seems to have gained an international following and indeed even though I think food queues to be a bit Soviet it is worth the effort. Ferg’s started as a ‘hole in the wall’ in 2001 and has subsequently moved its shrine to mince and buns to a new mainstreet address at 42 Shotover Street where it can better serve its hoards of devotees. From the Codfather (fish obviously) to the Bun Laden (falafel) to the Little Lamby the menu nomenclature is almost as much fun as the consumption. Check their amusing website for menu items at fergburger.com
98 | Islandliving pacific
Another but more sophisticated choice would have to be The Bunker which, as the name suggests has a slightly ‘bunkerish’ room and bar at street level while upstairs you’ll find a semi-open deck plus a Veuve Cliquot-branded bar and a private dining room. The food here, like so many other Queenstown eateries features the best of the local produce. Southland hare, paua (a NZ speciality that I love, along with whitebait when in season) salmon from Stewart Island, Southland Angus beef, Otago Alpine Merino lamb and Canter Valley duck all cooked to perfection and served without much concern about portion control – that means generous!
Get out of town
A few minutes from town on the Frankton Road, stop at the marina and drop into the Boatshed Café and Bistro for a lakeside lunch, coffee or snack (it’s open 8am to 5pm). This charming little timber shack with deck and lawns seems to be a drawcard for brunching mothers (it’s full of prams) and cosmopolitan tourists. The building is, like so
is a beach right in town; Amisfield’s dining courtyard. Above left to right: the red shed, Arrowtown signage; and the food at Amisfield.
many others, steeped in history and was originally the New Zealand Railways Shipping Office which was relocated to its current site in 1936 where it now enjoys sweeping views across the lake to the Remarkables. About a 15-minute drive further north you’ll find Arrowtown, an almost Disney-esque gold rush village dating from the mid nineteenth century. Today the town retains around 70 buildings and features left over from its time as a mining centre and recently gained further international recognition as the location for much of the filming of the Lord of the Rings trilogy. As you would expect there are a plethora of cafés, restaurants, B&Bs, resorts and a charming old pub and museum along with wine purveyors selling the local drop (like everywhere else in the area, viticulture is a mainstay of the economy) … and a lot of lambs wool souvenirs. Also well worth a visit is Glenorchy the little town at the northern tip of the lake which merits a visit just for the 40-kilometre scenic drive along the lakefront followed by a relaxed lunch (or immense all-day breakfast in the local pub). This is yet
another film location favourite with Narnia, X-Men and Fellowship of the Ring, among others, filmed here. So if you’re getting the idea that Queenstown and surrounds are one big film location you wouldn’t be far wrong but hey, when you’re a Hollywood producer with a choice of locations around the globe why wouldn’t you choose one with the world’s best scenery. Go there even if you aren’t planning your next blockbuster, you’ll love it. Getting there: There are numerous flights to Queenstown from all major New Zealand cities as well as direct flights from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney so just look up any airline in the Pacific that flies to New Zealand (e.g. Air Vanuatu, Fiji Airways, Virgin Samoa, Air Calin, Air Tahiti and Air New Zealand of course) and you’re on your way. Websites: arrowtown.com • queenstownnz. co.nz • glenorchyinfocentre.co.nz • queenstown.com • queesntown.co.nz•
100 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
Buy-in
Value Add for your investment home away from home Investing in real estate in foreign countries can be time consuming, confusing and costly. Gayle Stapleton tells how to make it easier by using a broker with local knowledge
W
e’re seeing more and more Australians winning as a result of working with mortgage brokers for their property purchases – in fact, in Australia, more than 50 per cent of property purchasers now choose to work with a broker. So, does the value of a mortgage broker extend to those who wanting to invest into the South Pacific? The answer is yes … and here are three reasons why: 1. Time and money… Let’s face it – we’re all busy and we’re only getting busier and who doesn’t want to save money? So when it comes to financing an investment in your home away from home, more investors are starting to use a broker to save themselves time, and money. Having someone ‘on the ground’ to do all the research, paperwork and negotiation with lenders means that investors not only save countless hours – they also get access to more options and they will achieve a more cost effective finance solution. In one recent example, due to specialist knowledge and connections, we were able to save a new investor $15,000 per annum – and this is before allowing for the added gift of time. 2. Local knowledge Financing in the Pacific is very different from sourcing finance within Australia, the financial maze can become confusing and, let’s be honest, sometimes just seems all too hard.
Things like differing currency, leasehold vs freehold (how does this impact on valuation), loan terms, loan types and residency requirements come to mind. Working with someone who you can trust, who understands the finance landscape and has access to the necessary connections allows you to take more comfort in your decision to invest in your home away from home. 3. Added value for expatriate Australians Okay, you are living the dream … congratulations! Now you wish to make (or review) a property investment in Australia. I know first-hand the difficulties you can experience when you are living outside Australia and earning income other than Australian Dollars. Your former personal banker has moved on to greener pastures and there is no-one to talk to. How do you explain the currency difference and potentially the differing taxation environment? Your mortgage broker has relationships with lenders in Australia that specialise in lending to Australian expatriates and will be well placed to source a finance package that is dedicated to you, and you can continue ‘living the dream’ while building wealth for your future. So, yes, there is value in working with a mortgage broker in the Pacific. You will save time, money, be better informed and receive a finance package that is aligned to your individual Stapleton Pacific needs. •
islandliving | 101 pacific
102 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
VBL1013 Hydrant Creative
tusker.vu
islandliving | 103 paciďŹ c
Fore!
Fiji to a Tee Natadola Bay on Fiji’s Coral Coast is about to play home again to another round of the PGA Tour of Australasia and is attracting players from around the globe who come for not just the game but a taste of the tropics where the ‘water hazard’ is just a stunning view of the bay.
W
hen thinking of Fiji it would be safe to assume that golf, and more specifically professional golf, is not the first activity that comes to mind. One would likely think of surfing, diving, weddings and family fun in the sun, but with the Fiji International making a noise on the global stage of professional golf, Fiji is now a golf destination which just happens to be in paradise. The 2015 Fiji International professional golf tournament was held from October 15th – 18th at the stunning Natadola Bay Championship Golf Course on the main island of Viti Levu. It is fully supported by the Fijian Government and continues to showcase golf in Fiji to new markets. The event sits on the PGA Tour of Australasia schedule and has been attracting world class fields including local hero and World Golf Hall of Fame member Vijay Singh, US Golf legend and 2015 defending champion, Matt Kuchar, three-time major champion Nick Price, and the number one players from China, India and New Zealand. Not to mention Australian players, both young and experienced who jumped at the opportunity to play an event in Fiji. With the tournament broadcast around the world it soon became the talk of the international golf industry.
Bigger, bolder, better
Most importantly, however, is the fact that the tournament is here to stay, with plans for 2016 already underway. Natadola Bay Championship Golf Course will once again play host to the Fiji International, to be held from 6th – 9th of October 2016. The slogan of the Fiji International is bigger, bolder and better and this year promises to be the best yet with some exciting new developments going on with the tournament to take it to that next level. Supporters and fans of the
104 | Islandliving pacific
Prime Minister Frank Bainimarama (centre) at last year’s PGA gala dinner.
Fiji International are encouraged to check out the www. fijiinternational.com website for all latest developments as well as some fun competitions which have been launched. No other tournament venue in the world offers the opportunity for corporate guests to relax on the beach, enjoy local hospitality while watching the professionals tear up the course. That is just what the signature 4th hole at Natadola Bay offers. A dip in the breathtaking Coral Coast waters between groups could even be on the cards. In addition to the 4th hole, there are another 14 holes on the course with water views of the Coast, and the traditional style hospitality bures around the 18th green provide spectators with a truly Fijian experience.
Play all year round
It is not just tournament week however, where the Fiji International experience is delivered to tourists and locals
Learning the lingo
alike. The magnificent Natadola Bay Championship Course offers the opportunity to play the Home of the Fiji International all year round, and it is ‘paradise to a tee’. The course suits either the golfing enthusiast with the challenging layout and perpetually windy conditions, or the golfing novice who is just ready to enjoy some Fiji time with a spectacular view. Either way, now that the secret of Natadola Bay has been exposed to the world through the Fiji International it will never be the same again. It is fair to say this is a good result as a destination such as Natadola is too good not to have the world come to play. The Fiji International and Natadola Bay is set to be the next big player on the world stage of golf. Watch this space. For more information on the Fiji International, travel packages and how to be involved visit www.fijiinternational. com or email info@fijiinterational.com •
• Birdie: A score of one under par on a hole. • Bogey: A score of one over par on a hole. • Bunker: A hollow comprised of sand or grass or both that exists as an obstacle • Chicken Wing: A swing flaw in which the lead elbow bends at an angle pointed away from the body, • Dormie: The point in match play when a player is up in a match by the same number of holes that remain. • Duck Hook: A shot that flies sharply from right to left for right-handed players. • Eagle: A score of two-under-par on a hole. • Fluffy Lie: A lie in which the ball rests atop the longish grass. • Fly: The distance the ball carries • Fried Egg: The slang term for a buried lie in the sand. • Hosel: The part of the club connecting the shaft to the clubhead. • Iron Byron: A testing device modeled after Byron Nelson’s swing. • Lights-Out: A slang term describing an outstanding round or stretch of holes. • Links: The term for a course built on linksland, which is land reclaimed from the ocean. • Mulligan: The custom of hitting a second ball -- without penalty -- on a hole, • One-Piece Takeaway: Sometimes called the “modern” takeaway, it describes the beginning of the backswing when the hands, arms and wrists move away from the ball • Plugged Lie: The condition when the ball comes to rest in its own pitch mark, usually in a bunker or soft turf. • Rap: To hit a putt with a short, firm stroke. • Road Hole: The par-4 17th hole at the Old Course at St. Andrews, one of the most famous and difficult holes in the world. • Scoring Clubs: The driver, putter and sand wedge. • Shank: When the ball is struck on the hosel of the club, usually sending it shooting off to the right. • Spoon: A term for a 3-wood that is seldom used today. • Straight-Faced: The description of a club with very little loft, such as a driving iron. • Swinger: A player whose swing is based on timing and rhythm, as opposed to a “hitter,” whose swing is based on sheer power. • Tee Box: The area where players tee to start a hole. • Toed Shot: Any shot hit off the toe of the club. • Uncock: The release of straightening of the wrists during the downswing. • Waggle: A motion or several motions designed to keep a player relaxed at address • Yips: A condition, generally believed to be psychological, which causes a player to lose control of his hands and club. (with thanks to the PGA)
islandliving | 105 pacific
islandliving | 106 paciďŹ c
islandliving | 107 paciďŹ c
E MANAG
M
EN T
UL TAN CY
U PA A Vanuatu’s Most Sophisticated
BeachfrontVilla Rentals
S
+ CON
Paua offers a range of spectacular private, absolute beachfront villas in the Whitesands/ Narpow Point area of Efaté. On-site staff and en-suite accommodation in-ground pool plus private beach available. In-house catering, airport transfers and concierge advice on request. Paua for your perfect ‘private resort’ holiday or function. Paua villas are also perfect for weddings which can be professionally arranged.
Contact Christiana or Toga. T: +678 775 1793 or +678 775 1792 or +678 26 108 E: info@paua.co W: www.paua.co for villa details
Pacific currency specialists
Currency Exchange No. 1 for Services No. 1 for Rates No. 1 across the Pacific No. 1 Currency – your currency specialist
Phone 29980 / 27290
Available across the Pacific at No. 1 Currency
• Pilioko • Pilioko Kumul Hway • Opp Grand Hotel • Bauerfield Airport arrivals & departures • CK Building, Luganville, Santo
108 | Islandliving pacific
Good Works
QBE staff open their hearts and wallets to support Fijian families
I
n the aftermath of Cyclone Winston, the local QBE team – working with their regional colleagues – sprang into action, immediately bringing in loss adjustors to jumpstart the claims process.
Reassurance
Together with corporate matching, a total of US$25,000 was raised by QBE staff for Save the Children’s Cyclone Winston emergency fund. In addition, the QBE Group Foundation contributed a further US$25,000 to the cause. Providing education,
“On the business level, it is critical that we respond water and sanitation quickly to our customers’ “Cyclone Winston has had a needs and provide QBE Fiji team collects clothing and household items to help people devastating impact on the affected by Cyclone Winston. reassurance and assistance people of Fiji. Support from wherever possible,” notes companies like QBE has QBE Fiji General Manager, Darryl Williamson. “On a allowed us to respond quickly in providing education, human level, it is at times like this when insurers can make water and sanitation services to thousands of the most a massive difference by being there to help individuals, vulnerable children and young people,” says Save the families and businesses begin the very difficult process of Children Australia CEO Paul Ronalds. rebuilding their lives.” More acts of kindness Customers first priority Beyond the monetary donations, QBE Fiji staff also Since 1887, QBE has been meeting people’s organised a drive for clothing and household items for two insurance needs and engaging with the local communities villages that suffered massive destruction. in the Pacific Islands. Today, the company is the largest QBE Foundation support in the Pacific region general insurer in Fiji, Papua New Guinea, Solomon Islands, The QBE Foundation plays an active role in the Pacific and Vanuatu and has significant market shares in French Islands region. In 2015, a similar staff fundraising Polynesia and New Caledonia. Williamson adds: “Our first program complemented by corporate matching and a priority is to help our customers recover from this QBE Group Foundation grant contributed US$60,000 to catastrophe. Even though many of our staff were also the Australian Red Cross Cyclone Pam relief fund to assist personally impacted by this storm, they people in Vanuatu. In Fiji, the continue to put the needs of our customers Foundation previously helped rebuild the ahead of their own.” Lomolomo village school and assisted $25,000 raised by QBE staff various organisations catering to needy, In addition to reacting quickly to the visually impaired and disabled children. In the destruction left by the mega-storm, QBE staff other Pacific countries where QBE operates, across the company’s Emerging Markets the Foundation supports educational and Division – from Asia Pacific and Latin America health programmes for people with – also opened their hearts and wallets to disabilities or from disadvantaged support Fijian families. backgrounds. island living| 109 | 13 island living pacific pacific
16/56 Lavarack Ave, Eagle Farm, Qld 4009 110 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
The People: Behind Your Magazine Behind the scenes, or should that be the scenery, since we’re in the Pacific, we’re making your mag. TIFFANY CARROLL | Editor Tiffany began her career in journalism at GTV 9 in Melbourne before switching to print media with Rural Press newspapers in NSW. She joined the private office of the Premier of Victoria as Press Secretary in the second term of the Kennett Government. Since moving to Vanuatu, Tiffany has written for many clients and has been editing Air Vanuatu’s inflight magazine Island Spirit for seven years. TANYA GREEN | Art Director Tanya has a degree in Graphic Design with experience working in both Australia and overseas, in roles ranging from Commercial Producer for TV, to Designer, Art Director and also owning her own magazine. She now spends time with her two small children and freelancing for clients across the country ... and the Pacific too now.
CAROLYN ERNST | Gardening Editor Carolyn Ernst is a passionate gardener and farmer. Originally from New Zealand, Carolyn has called the Pacific home for well over 25 years. She is a married mother of four children and two grandchildren and operates Eden on the River - an outdoor adventure and garden experience in Port Vila. GAYLE STAPLETON | Finance Writer After numerous chief executive roles with ANZ Bank within Australia and the South Pacific, Gayle established Stapleton Pacific. She works with investors, business owners, expatriates and foreign non-residents to assist them build property investment and wealth portfolios via intelligent, personalised and well-structured lending.
GEORGIE GORDON | Features Editor Georgie’s university studies in communications, journalism and publishing were followed by a successful career in advertising. Georgie now spends much of her time writing about the things she has a passion for, design, food, travel, books, health and beauty. She now resides part time in the region allowing her to pursue her enthusiasm for promoting the pleasures of the Pacific.
PAT INGRAM | Editorial Director Pat Ingram has a long and passionate association with magazines. She edited Australian Cosmopolitan and Harper’s Bazaar before her 10-year stint as Publishing Director for ACP Magazines’ 16 women’s titles including Woman’s Day and The Australian Women’s Weekly. She currently works as a publishing consultant and editorial director for Fairfax Media. She is a resident of Vanuatu and dreams of spending most of the year here.
CHRISTIANA KALUSCHA | Food Editor Christiana studied languages and economics at Cologne University before taking up the life of a sea gypsy sailing the Mediterranean from Spain to Turkey and onwards around the world. Fluent in several languages plus the language of food. Christiana now runs the exclusive boutique B+B, Sarangkita, on the beachfront outside of Port Vila from where she also conducts cooking tours and classes as the creator of Vanuatu Food Safari.
CRAIG OSMENT | Publisher Craig has over thirty years’ experience as an independent publisher of consumer magazines, books and trade titles. Originally a graphic designer, he was art director of Australian Cosmopolitan, The Bulletin and POL magazines. Now a Vanuatu resident he is also the publisher of Island Spirit the Air Vanuatu in-flight magazine.
OLIVIA WAUGH | Fashion + Style Editor Olivia Waugh is a highly regarded fashion stylist with a career in both retail and editorial. She has been Fashion Editor for the top-selling Australian weekly Woman’s Day and Fashion Director of the glossy monthly SHOP TIL YOU DROP. She is currently freelancing for a variety of Australia’s top magazines and manufacturers and island-hopping
REBECCA MURPHY | Advertising Director Rebecca is another exile from New Zealand but has spent the past 17 years travelling extensively through Europe and the Pacific so thoroughly acclimatised to our region. She lived in PNG before coming to Vanuatu and is a media junkie having worked in print and radio for ten years. She loves anything to do with fashion, style and travel and claims to be an ‘all round exceptional person’ and we have to agree.
islandliving | 111 pacific
Weekly Services
• Chuuk • Kosrae • Pohnpei • Majuro • Tarawa • Nauru • Brisbane • Nadi
112 | Islandliving pacific
www.nauruairlines.com.au
Moorings
Land Ahoy! For yachties seeking safe haven with affordable trimmings, Vuda Marina Fiji is the answer. If you’ve really got to stay on dry land then the food and accommodation here is worth the sacrifice ... and your boat is still within sight
BJS Logistics Solutions International Freight Forwarders Global Service Import Air Freight - Worldwide Import Sea Freight - Worldwide Customs Clearance Service Export Air Freight - Worldwide Export Sea Freight - Worldwide Project Management Bonded Customs Warehouse Customs Clearance
DHL Express & DHL Global Forwarding We have all your logistics solutions covered. International global freight forwarding by air, sea and road. Warehousing solutions from packaging, to repairs, to storage; mail deliveries worldwide; and other customized logistic services - with everything DHL does, we help connect people and improve their lives.
V
uda Marina Fiji is a family-owned operation with an award-winning restaurant situated only 15 minutes from Nadi Airport, but best of all is its proximity to some of Fiji’s most stunning islands in the Mamanuca group and slightly further west, the Yasawas. The marina’s achievements in hospitality have been recognised recently by several awards, including – winner of the 2015 AON Excellence in Tourism award for Best Restaurant in Fiji and winner of TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence for the past three years in a row. The Boatshed Restaurant and Sunset Bar (above) is the perfect place to enjoy great food and while away a bit of sunset drinking time before dinner. Here you’ll have a live band on Friday nights from 6pm to 9pm and on Sundays from 2pm to 7pm, weekly specials including a half-price pizza night (Tuesdays), Winey Wednesdays and Happy Hour on Thursdays as well as some signature food choices like: Tomahawk Steak, Kokoda, Coconut Crusted Walu, Seafood Linguini and Lobster Pizza. If you’d prefer to step out and amuse yourself with some local attractions Vuda is close to the Zipline Adventure, Garden of the Sleeping Giant, Abaca Hike and the Mudpools and also in close proximity to the First Landing Resort and the Anchorage Resort. More info at: vudamarinafiji.com.fj .•
BJS Recycling Specialists BJS Recycling are Solomon Islands leading scrap metal buyers. We buy all non-ferrous and some ferrous metals. Our buying prices are very competitive and our staff are experienced and passionate recyclers.
bjs agencies ltd PO Box 439/Commonwealth St Point Cruz • Honiara Solomon Islands Phone +677 22393 Email bjs@bjs.com.sb Facebook www.facebook.com/ bjsagencieslimited Web www.bjs.com.sb
islandliving | 113 pacific
MILTON ROSS
HOTEL • CASINO • RESTAURANT • HARDWARE
Hotel and Casino located in Aiwo District, just near the Civic Centre in Nauru. A family owned and operated hotel. Rates for long and short term stays are available, enjoy a self contained or double and single rooms available. Cafe/Restaurant and Hardware Store is located in Menning District, enjoy hot breakfast and freshly brewed coffee daily or browse the store, everything you need from groceries and gardening supplies to furnishing your home.
114 | Islandliving pacific
For more information contact: Phone: +(674) 558 8644 | Email: odnaiwo@yahoo.com
islandliving | 115 paciďŹ c
Par Avion
Culinary Curiosities Fashion fads in food have reached the height of absurdity writes Toby Preston who thought himself an intrepid omnivore until he started taking note of what was on his plate.
S
ome years ago after eating lunch at a prominent Port Vila restaurant the proprietor asked how my meal was. I told it her was delicious, and that I’d had the pork belly. Her reaction was “ Yuk! How could you eat that, sounds dreadful to me” and this was in her own restaurant. I suppose there was a time when pork belly sounded like something quite confronting, maybe conjuring visions of tripe or the inner workings of the digestive tract but as we all now know it’s an extremely delicious piece of pig with a high crackling to meat ratio – almost the perfect all-skin porker, where there’s no fighting over the crispy bits. I don’t think of myself generally as squeamish when it comes to food, sure there are certain offal offerings I’d politely decline but mostly the nose-to-tail movement doesn’t bother me too much although I’d draw the line at some sections of the gastrointestinal tract I’d prefer to avoid, mostly those bits adjacent to the rear and the reproductive remnants. But other than that give me a hock, a cheek or an ear and I’ll happily consume it with same enthusiasm as any of the limbs or other more common cuts. Send for the nano-technician These days though it’s often impossible to know what it is you’re about to eat, and I’m not just talking about those temples of destination dining where a booking three months in advance is obligatory and a 15-course degustation the minimum menu option. The sort of place where the ‘waitperson’ approaches your table and reverentially recites a litany of exotic ingredients which are about to be produced by the kitchen nano-technician to subsequently appear on a plate the size of a hubcap on which a serving of quail bile, wood sorrel, mahogany-smoked pheasant skin and ox pancreas is served on a subatomic lotus root chip visible only with the aid of a microscope. I’m talking about anywhere there’s an ambitious chef, male or female, with a tattoo and a pony tail trawling the world’s lesser known culinary outposts for food no one has ever heard of outside of a Turkmenistan takeaway. Even cocktail bars are competing for ever more arcane combinations, for example: The Singed Ginge (on a Sydney bar menu) consists of Singelton whisky, elderflower liqueur, scorched lemon and house-made ginger beer, accompanied by … bastourma, haloumi and a fermented chilli cigar! While I’m familiar with haloumi as a cheese, a ‘fermented chilli cigar’ sounds like something Groucho Marx may have served up as a joke – and bastourma sent me to Google for an explanation. If you know what it is, no spoilers please. For the unenlightened though, you’ll kick yourself for not
116 | Islandliving pacific
having it, so to speak, on the tip of your tongue. It’s Armenian air-dried beef seasoned with chaman. Chaman you ask? Yep, not a Pakistani city which is first up on Wikipedia, nor in sub continental slang a term for idiot, but another Armenian favourite on the streets of Yerevan – a spice rub. Fusion confusion Here’s another cocktail combination, this time with the addition of a completely unpronounceable name – de dah! Introducing … the Gld I Prl. This time the ingredients are Tanqueray gin, celery water, orange vermouth, oyster shell and sea blight. Served with a smoked oyster and ssam. Ssam it appears is a Korean vegetable wrap. Sea Blight (or sometimes ‘blite’) isn’t a marine environmental disaster but a sort of weed found on mud flats, while oyster shell simply adds a bit of roughage if you can’t find the ground glass in the pantry. It all looks like fusion confusion gone completely bonkers but it obviously sells in the first world which has given us molecular gastronomy (thank you Heston Blumenthal) where liquid nitrogen has suddenly become de rigeur in any restaurant or bar worth its chemistry set. This is the same substance that’s used in the manufacture of Kevlar, fertilisers and super glue, and for the removal of warts, but is now being injected into minted ice cream at your table by men in biohazard ensembles. This stuff if swallowed expands in gas form to 700 times its original volume, a girl in the UK had to have her stomach removed after drinking a cocktail containing this witty little frozen vapour. Some people may have their stomach voluntarily removed before ingesting. Chops and spuds please I’m sure not all this arcane gastronomy might result in having your guts surgically excised but what’s the point? Or maybe the counterpoint? Is this foodie conceit just a reaction to the slow food movement or the simplicity of Italian regional cuisine, comfort food or the keep-it-simple cucina povera style of cooking? Or how about a nice organic, pesticide-free island style meal cooked in a pit or on the barbie? You’d have to wonder about how many planet impairing ‘food miles’ a small dish on a tasting menu containing – smoked and confit pig jowl, roasted koji, shitake, kombu, sesame, sea scallop, milk curd and smoked broth – does. Just give me a glass of red, a coupla chops and few spuds, or better still in our little bit of the Pacific a lobster that’s just walked up the beach and thrown itself on the grill, but please hold the seaweed, the heirloom golden orach, harami, nasturtiums and egg yolk emulsion. Bon Appetit! •
1 | Islandliving paciďŹ c
1 | Islandliving paciďŹ c