Read the digital edition of Pacific Island Living Issue 17.

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Islandliving pacifi c from the editor

SPRING 2016 | ISSUE 17

The

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EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW FOR THE PERFECT PACIFIC WEDDING FOOD I FASHION I PLANNING I BEAUTY I HEALTH I FINANCE

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ext issue, we will be celebrating four years of Pacific Island Living. We started this magazine for Pacific people – to find, review and recommend things to see and do, and ultimately, buy. We are proudly an aspirational magazine, we want our readers to sit back and indulge just as much as we want to tell the world how great the Pacific really is. From Georgie Gordon’s health and beauty columns, to Carolyn Ernst’s gardening tips, we hope you agree Pacific Island Living has something for everyone. In four years our market has grown from Vanuatu and Nauru Airlines to cover most of the Pacific. We’re particularly proud of our market share in Fiji and the Solomon Islands as well as our distribution in Australia through Qantas Club lounges. As I write this column I’m in Fiji, having just flown in from Vanuatu. Next month it will be Nauru then the Sollies. Pacific Island Living truly is a Pacific magazine and we’re so pleased you have enjoyed it and helped its growth over the last four years. Please do keep in touch via our website, Facebook page, Instagram or Twitter. Happy reading. Tiffany Carroll

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and Instagram at instagram.com/pacisliving or read this and all our magazines online at www.pacific-island-living. com Cover images - Fiji Island Living courtesy Adrenalin Fiji; Solomon Island Living, by David Kirkland; Nauru Airlines Cover courtesy Nautilus Resort, Kosrae; Vanuatu cover courtesy Pavol Stranák. Copyright: All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the ISSN 2200-9566 publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu 03 Tourism Office or Pacific Island Living.

9 772200 956005

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from the editor

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here goes winter – thank goodness most of our Australian and Kiwi readers are no doubt thinking. But winter in the Pacific is glorious, and this one just gone particularly so with warm sunny days and cool nights. We’re still officially in the dry season and it’s at this time of year even more people head to Fiji and Vanuatu to get married. Toby Preston, Olivia Waugh, Georgie Gordon, Carolyn Ernst, Christiana Kaluscha, Gayle Stapleton and Rebecca Worsp have put together a massive guide to all things wedding related in this issue of Pacific Island Living. Also this issue we welcome our new readers from Samoa, Talofa new friends as we look forward to bringing you many more editions of Samoa Island Living and showcasing your beautiful country to the world. Finally, check out our competition details on page 58 for your chance to win an Air New Zealand holiday to stunning Samoa, staying at the brand new 5-star Taumeasina Island Resort. Enter via our website at www.pacificislandliving.com Happy reading.

Tiffany Carroll

Find us on Facebook

www.facebook.com/pacificislandliving, Twitter

@PacIsLiving

and Instagram at instagram.com/pacisliving or read this and all our magazines online at: www.pacificislandliving.com Copyright: All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu Tourism Office, Samoa Tourism Authority, Photogenic Limited or Pacific Island Living.

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Pacific Island Living No 17 | Spring 2016 EDITOR Tiffany Carroll Email: tcarroll@photogenicpr.com ART DIRECTOR Tanya Green FEATURES EDITOR Georgie Gordon FASHION + STYLE EDITOR Olivia Waugh FOOD EDITOR Christiana Kaluscha GARDENING EDITOR Carolyn Ernst CONTRIBUTORS Toby Preston, Craig Osment, Pat Ingram, Fiona Harper, Carolyn Ernst, Christiana Kaluscha, Gayle Stapleton, Fiona Marston, Tiffany Carroll, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu Tourism Office, Tatyana Leonov, SIVB, Nautilus Resort FSM, Leith Campbell, Rebecca Worsp, Pohnpei Surf Club, Roderick Eime. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Pat Ingram PUBLISHER: Craig Osment ADVERTISING INQUIRIES Rebecca Worsp: Advertising Director Fiji | Vanuatu | Nauru | Samoa Telephone: (678) 778 0005 Email: sales@photogenicpr.com Honiara: Bronwyn Norris Telephone: (677) 745 6066 Email: sales@photogenicpr.com Pacific Island Living, is published quarterly by Photogenic Limited Fax (678) 23 402 | PO Box 322 Port Vila, Vanuatu Printed by APOL Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/pacificislandliving Twitter

@PacIsLiving

and Instagram

at instagram.com/pacisliving

Or read this and all our magazines online www.pacificislandliving.com

at

COPYRIGHT All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji or Pacific Island Living.

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ELEGANCE | QUALITY | STYLE

ARTISAN JEWELLERS SINCE 1981

www.vanuatubijouterie.com Find us on Facebook and Instagram

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This being Spring and we being in the Pacific, we’re letting you in on everything we know about organising your special day in an eight-page special feature starting on page 42

CONTENTS 016 Spring 2

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BEACHCOMBER This issue we feature the beautiful and practical bags, towels and accessories created by NZ company Coast, also exquisite Australian jewellery and Vanuatu’s premier catering company Kandy’s Kitchen – perfect for your wedding breakfast.

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PACIFIC PULSE Our roundup of Pacific happenings and regional news. We feature Fest’Napuan, the biggest public event in Vanuatu and longest running music festival in the South Pacific along with news that Australian Survivor is filming in Samoa.

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BOOK LOOK Georgie Gordon’s eclectic collection

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STYLE+DÉCOR – A-Z OF WEDDING GIFTS

of new reads from the Fashions of Chanel to Nordic cookery and a page-turning thriller. Settle into your deck chair!

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NET ASSETS This being our wedding special we’ve found a selection of helpful websites for those planning their nuptials. Tips on photography and a special site for grooms among them. TURTLE TALES To celebrate In our first Island Living with the Samoa Tourist Authority and distribution there, Roderick Eime comes out of his shell and goes exploring this island nation’s underwater delights and gets up close and personal with .. turtles.

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Olivia Waugh takes a look at what’s on offer for newly weds from an arbor to crocheted sheet sets for piling up the ZZZs. Very stylish and available online.

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FASHION FLASH – ISLAND ELOPEMENT Fashion editor Olivia Waugh gets out her little white wedding book and advises on everything the bride’s going to need for the big day – shoes, gowns, jewellery, garters and veils. It’s all here.

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EIGHT PAGE WEDDING SPECIAL All the lowdown on the best resorts, hotels, villas and other venues for the ceremony along with honeymoon destinations and hair, make up and planning specialists.


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BEAUTY –WEDDING COUNTDOWN Georgie Gordon has come up with a pre-wedding planner that starts six months out through to the day itself and advises on how to look your best.

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HEALTH – DASH DON’T CRASH The DASH diet, originally designed to assist in lowering blood pressure, has been rated the healthiest diet for six years in a row and is more of a lifelong eating plan than a simple crash diet.

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MARSHALL ISLANDS MYSTERY The Amelia Earhart mystery has gripped the imagination for almost 80 years here Roderick Eime revisits a persistent theory that just may be the explanation.

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RESORT REPORT Our regular roundup of the places where we love stay in the Pacific. From Vanuatu to Honiara to Fiji to Samoa. Take your pick!

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ON THE HOOK The Vanuatu Marlin Classic is about to happen again, and this year fisherpersons will have new digs.

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DINING OUT – THE PACIFIC’S BEST Check out some of our favourite restaurants.

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FOOD – NUPTIAL NIBBLES Christiana Kaluscha shares her favourite cocktails and light and easy finger food accompaniments which are perfect for your tropical wedding.

88

ABODE – SITTING TARGETS Toby Preston appoints himself Chairman and looks at the rising value of mid century Scandinavian seating.

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WITNESS TO WAR FSM’s fascinating history brought to life by a personal recollection.

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GARDEN WEDDING Gardening editor Carolyn Ernst says that when organising a garden wedding it’s all in the planning.

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BUY IN Gayle Stapleton’s investment advice.

102 ART SMART – HEROES ON HORSEBACK Toby Preston returns from Europe with a collection of pix of all sorts of dignitaries celebrated in statuary in stone and brass, and they’re all on horseback. Top: Not all the wedding guests dress like this, but if you invite some traditional ‘warriors’ they’ll bring their grass skirts, page 42. Middle: Amelia Earhart sitting atop her plane which mysteriously disappeared in the Marshall Islands, page 102. Above: Scandi chairs appreciate, page 88

116 STAFF BIOGS The behind-the-scenes people who make your magazine every issue, contributors and staff details.

116 PAR AVION Toby Preston goes away to go shopping but comes away disappointed – it’s all the same!

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Beachcomber Every issue we bring you the news, views, people, products and places from all around the Pacific.

JUST COASTING New Zealand company, Coast established in 2003 by Nicola and Alex Webster with the aim of creating a luxury brand that reflects ‘New Zealand’s unique quality of life’ has fulfilled its brief perfectly. Their range of beautifully crafted products includes many which started life as goods suited to the owners of super yachts which had to be luxurious but durable given they had to survive the harsh conditions encountered on the ocean. With this in mind the materials used in their range of outdoor fabric furniture, canvas bags and leather luggage accessories and linens are all natural linens, cottons and wool or sturdy fabrics like canvas and marine-grade Sunbrella which is fade resistant, super strong and resilient and can be washed and cleaned regularly. The range covers bean bags, ottomans, cushions, woollen throws, blankets, hand towels

and the gorgeous beach towels (above left NZ$69.99). The classic canvas beach bag (above NZ$245) is available in five colours and can machine washed season after season. In keeping with their design ethos they say “Our attention to detail is rigorous and uncompromising, because, after all, every product is only as good as its weakest component. Accordingly, we always use the most enduring fabrics and parts that we can find and that are equal to the task at hand. Our design process has concentrated as much on materials and construction as on aesthetics and style, to ensure that everything we make is not only enduring but timeless.” So if you’re after seaside accessories made for the high end sailing set you’re sure to find them here and you’ll enjoy them for years to come. Check out the full range at their website: www. coastnewzealnd.com LITTLE GEMS Australian jewellery designer Susan Driver is a former architect who professes a love of “drawing, creating and manipulating silver and gold into classic, bespoke and contemporary jewellery pieces.” She draws her inspiration from travel, art, fashion, architecture and beauty and handcrafts her pieces with individuals in mind. From earrings to necklaces, charms and rings to bangles and cuffs, Susan’s works are all exquisite and beautifully crafted. While originating in her Brisbane studio all her work is available online and covers three separate collections – AYU, Bloom and Classic. And, even better when you buy from her, as a supporter of the Adventure Project, at the end of every year she donates AU$1.00 from every sale. The Adventure Project seeks to alleviate poverty and empower people within their own communities by encouraging locals to become entrepreneurs. www.susandriver.com.au

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Beachcomber And if you have anything that’s worth knowing about, get in touch and let us in on the secret. KANDY’S KITCHEN CAPERS Kandy Tamagushiku the proprietor of Kandy’s Kitchen, Vanuatu’s premier catering company has a CV that matches her origins for international cred. She is part Japan, part Vanuatu, part New Zealand and a large part Michelin Star. I first encountered her flawless skills in the kitchen at the very upmarket Ratua Private Island resort on Santo some years ago. The culinary experience there was one that remains firmly in my food memory, I seem to recall that for the duration of our stay there was no menu, simply a request from Kandy as to any food dislikes or allergies and after that she took care of everything, and everything was fabulous. After that I found her again at Eratap Resort on Efaté where she maintained the standard and again at Benjor on Efate´. Now you needn’t leave the comfort of your own home to enjoy her amazing ability in the kitchen. Her catering business will bring meals to you, whether for corporate functions, parties, weddings, intimate dinners canapé functions, villa catering, birthday parties, BBQs and spit roasts – anything. As she says “your paradise is our home” and she knows the produce of her home as well as anyone on the island. She uses fresh, local and organic, covering fish, lobster, beef prawns and market fruit and vegetables. Her experienced team will produce meals to suit any dietary requirement an ensures that the service is exactly what you want – professional and ‘subtle’. While based in Vila, the service is available throughout Vanuatu’s islands by arrangement. And she now makes her own range of delicious pickles. So, whether your event is big or small Kandy’s Kitchen can be relied upon to make sure that every meal is memorable. www.kandys-kitchen.com GET BEHIND THE WHEEL AND GET OUT IN FRONT The best way to see Vanuatu is by car, it allows you to stay in lesser known but fabulously secluded places out of town and, obviously to see the sights and experience the local activities independently, come and go as you please and stop at deserted beaches, bays, blue holes and out-of-town eateries without having to fall in line with others on tourist coaches (which are fine if your time is limited). Europcar in Port Vila offer a range of reliable, economical or luxury vehicles at competitive prices to suit all needs – the range encompasses standard, economy, luxury and full size. They are a familiar brand and global leader in the industry with professionally trained staff to look after your rental requirements and are on hand seven days per week 8.00 am to 5.00 pm while their roadside assistance service is available 24/7. Whether you’re wanting to go to the Summit, Eden on the River, the stunning cascades waterfall or just take a leisurely tour round the island stopping for lunch at Havannah Harbour – go Europcar. www.europcar.vu

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Cardo s STEAKHOUSE & COCKTAIL BAR Port Denarau, Fiji

Open for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner - Go where the locals go!

Port Denarau Marina Complex, FIJI Phone (+679) 675 0900 Web www.cardosfiji.com 10 | Islandliving paciďŹ c


Book look: Spring Reads Georgie Gordon’s eclectic selection of best new reads, both fact and fiction. CHANEL THE COMPLETE KARL LAGERFELD COLLECTIONS by Patrick Mauries At once an encyclopaedic overview of the indomitable designer’s collections for Chanel and a glamourous accessory for your coffee table, Chanel: The Complete Karl Lagerfeld Collections is a must for any fashion aficionado. Ever since his first show for the fashion house in 1983, Lagerfeld has made headlines and dictated trends the world over, this definitive publication explores each collection’s influences and highlights with catwalk images, set designs, beauty looks and of course the top fashion models who wore the designs on the runway. Much more than a reference book, it’s a treasure trove of inspiration for lovers of design. Published by Thames and Hudson.

NORDIC LIGHT by Simon Bajada Embrace the clean fresh flavours of modern Scandinavian cuisine with Simon Bajada’s latest book, a follow up to the popular The New Nordic. Drawing on the traditional ingredients and contemporary preparations of Denmark, Sweden, Finland, Iceland and Norway – as well as taking inspiration from further afield – Simon combines elements of new Nordic cuisine, classic Scandinavian, raw food and vegetable-focused eating to create a better balanced diet that satisfies our desire to eat more healthily, more interestingly and more deliciously. Combined with stunning photography of the food and magnificent landscapes, Nordic Light is a truly beautiful book. Published by Hardie Grant.

STORM AND GRACE by Kathryn Heyman World-famous free-diver Storm Hisray hits Grace Cain like a bolt from the blue. Instantly smitten, she follows him to his idyllic Pacific island where he teaches her the ways of the deep, sinking to unimaginable depths on one single breath. As Storm begins training Grace to be his new star, she is pushed further and further beyond her limits—both in and out of the water. Narrated by a chorus of mesmerising sirens, Storm and Grace explores the dazzling thrill of the deep, and its dangers. Published by Allen & Unwin.

MUSIC AND FREEDOM by Zoe Morrison An old woman dying alone in Oxford hears beautiful piano music through the wall of her house – Bach, Beethoven, Listz, Rachmaninoff, like a long recital in chronological order. Is it a hallucination brought about by her starvation, a ghostly echo from her own past come to haunt her, or a surprise last chance at learning to live again? A beautifully written meditation on the transformative power of music and friendship that explores the dark terrain of domestic violence with gentle humour. Published by Vintage.

LEAVING LUCY PEAR by Anna Solomon One night in 1917 Beatrice Haven sneaks out of her uncle’s house on Cape Ann, Massachusetts, leaves her new born baby at the foot of a pear tree and watches as another woman claims the child. The unwed daughter of wealthy Jewish industrialists and a gifted pianist, Bea plans to leave her shameful secret behind and make a fresh start. Ten years later she returns to Cape Ann and discovers what has become of her daughter. Leaving Lucy Pear is a captivating story that deals with questions of class, freedom and the meaning of family. Published by Hachette.

THE COUPLE NEXT DOOR by Shari Lapena This thrilling page-turner from Shari Lapena is so fast-paced you’ll be tempted to read it in one sitting. A couple attends a dinner party at their neighbour’s house, by request their six-month old daughter is left at home, baby monitor in hand they resolve to check on her every half an hour, it is only next door after all. Suddenly the house is full of police and she’s gone. Meticulously crafted The Couple Next Door will have you gripped and guessing until the very last page. Published by Random House.

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Net assets: Wed-sites Georgie Gordon curates a list of useful websites for brides and grooms-to-be. CAPSULE This app is a great way for you and your guests to be able to share pictures from the wedding. Everyone with an iPhone is a photographer these days so why not take advantage and invite them to share their photos on Capsule so you don’t miss a moment of your big day. It’s free to join and then you can order prints, cards and canvases of your favourite images. It’s the modern day version of leaving a disposable camera on the table at the reception.

VOGUE BRIDES For the stylish bride who wants to stay ahead of the trends, go no further than the online fashion bible, Vogue. Every digital edition whether it be French, American or Aussie Vogue has a bridal section featuring the latest bridal runway collections, and more importantly weddings of the style set, see how the models, fashion editors, stylists and celebrities are celebrating their nuptials in some of the most envy-inducing destinations around the world. Also great for Instagram recommendations on details like flowers or table settings for your wedding.

POSTABLE This site makes keeping all your guests information in one place a breeze. Import your contacts and use this free online address book to send details to your stationer, calligrapher or wedding planner. Or even better, let Postable do all the work for you, they offer real or emailable wedding correspondence such as save the dates, invitations and thank you cards all personalised and with a huge range of stylish designs to choose from.

THE MAN REGISTRY And not disregarding the grooms, this site has plenty of advice, gift recommendations and even bucks party ideas for the oft forgotten nuptial partner. Featuring informative articles, titled Groom 101 such as ‘How to be a good groomsman’ and ‘Which wedding traditions can you skip’ not to mention great personalised ideas for your best man like poker sets and cufflinks (with worldwide shipping) and also a registry service should you not wish to partake in the combined wedding gift list.

JET FETE Planning a destination wedding? Jet Fete is a blog devoted entirely to planning a wedding from afar, including venue suggestions around the world, recommendations on wedding dresses for different climates, features on real destination weddings and planning advice. If an outdoor summer wedding is going to be your thing Jet Fete offers plenty of game ideas for guests, cocktail recipes and playlists. Or if you’re just looking for inspiration on where to go and how to get everyone there, they offer plenty of ideas and recommendations. Great for honeymoon ideas for any budget too.

PINTEREST We’ve extolled the virtues of Pinterest on these pages before but it would be remiss not to give it another mention when discussing all thing wedding related. There are literally millions of people sharing their own pictorial inspiration here for any type of wedding or for even the smallest wedding detail you may wish to research. A quick run down on how it works – people can create ‘boards’ where they pin images under different categories, you can create your own wedding board (great when in the planning stage) or just search other boards for ‘pinspiration’.

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s e l a T e Turtl

Coming Out of My Shell Hunted and harassed around the world, have these delicate sea creatures found sanctuary here in Samoa? Roderick Eime delves beneath the waves in search of these enigmatic and delightful animals.

Swimming with turtles is allowed but you’re asked to respect them even if they might weigh up 185kg.

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Island Escapes

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PICTURES: Roderick Eime and Samoa Tourist Authority

he determined reptile bore down with a singlemindedness only coming from eons of preprogrammed behaviour. This ancient sea creature pursued me with just one thing on its mind, and with the scent of food in its nostrils, wasn’t about to let me get away. “Oh, give it to him for heaven’s sake,” came the plea from Gardenia, my otherwise patient Samoan guide, and with that I relented and released the fragment of pawpaw into the water. Within seconds Crush’s ravenous jaws were munching contentedly on the bright yellow chunk of fruit. Sea Turtles, in this case Green Turtles, are about the most serene and kindly-looking animals anywhere on the planet. Most times anywhere else, you’d be jumping out of your skin at the rare sight of one, yet here among the Samoan islands the delightful critters abound. Crush is my name for the largest turtle here in the pool at the little village of Satoalepai on the far north coast of Savai’i, the largest and northernmost of the two Samoan mainlands. The local family sell tickets to tourists and visitors for ST$5 (about A$2.50) and you are supplied with all the ripe pawpaw the turtles can eat and all the time you want to swim and canoodle with the lovable creatures. I’m told the juvenile turtles here are coaxed from fishermen for a few tala and allowed to grow to maturity before release. But the story varies depending on who you ask. Either way, the dozen or so current residents are in good shape with plenty of room in clean water. As an amateur SCUBA diver, I also enjoyed a few dives in the crystal clear waters here on the very edge of the

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South Pacific. Each dive yielded at least one turtle encounter with one underwater exploration near the far eastern tip of Upolu (the other island) delivering eight turtles including the biggest damn Greenie I’ve ever seen. The 200kg monster crept out from under a ledge as I swam past, scared the daylights out of me and nonchalantly swam off.

Gold medal sighting

Most of the world’s turtles are on the World Conservation Union (IUCN) endangered species list as a result of overfishing, deadly driftnets and environmental degradation, particularly to feeding and nesting grounds. In spite of a US National Park Service assessment that places the animals in regional decline, my own unscientific observations would beg to differ. In the lagoon at Fagamalo I was even treated to the gold medal sighting of a critically endangered Hawksbill Turtle grazing unperturbed on algae at about 10m as I photographed it from every angle possible. “She’s there most times we dive,” says Fabien Lebon, the expert dive guide on Savai’i, “ ‘bonjour Fabien’ she says ‘so just one diver today, oh okay’ and keeps eating. My daughter calls her Vanessa.”

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In Samoa the animals have some nominal protection thanks to their mythical status as a saviour of lost seamen. The local name “I’a sa,” translates directly as “sacred fish”. Then there’s the old Samoan legend of the turtle and the shark which recalls unhappy Fonuea, an elderly blind villager, who cast herself and her daughter Salofa into the ocean to be reborn as sea creatures away from the unkind hands of humans. “Lalelei!, Lalelei!, Lalelei!” the villagers still cry coaxing the pair to reappear at the foot of the cliff. But don’t point or they will immediately disappear, reminded of the cruel treatment that caused their despair. When caught, turtles weep profusely and this sometimes engenders enough sympathy to throw them back to the sea instead of on the fire. True, despite both legend and legislation, turtles are still caught for food, although much less so in Samoa than other islands where they are gathered and slaughtered live in markets to the horror of onlookers. Samoa challenges any writer to avoid the common clichés of “hidden gem”, “best kept secret” or “tropical paradise” precisely because it matches them all exactly. The great novelist, Robert Louis Stevenson, sought refuge and inspiration here in his final years and is laid to rest overlooking Apia.

PICTURES: Roderick Eime and Samoa Tourist Authority

“For “For me, me, I’d I’d be be happy happy ifif Samoa Samoa retained retained its its seclusion, seclusion, cherished cherished its its low low profi profile le and and remained remained ambivalent ambivalent about about the the growing growing interest interest in in its its natural natural


Far left: Surfing Samoa style. Elite surfers have been keeping news of Samoa’s amazing breaks ‘under their beanies’ for years. Left: Traditional dance moves. Above left: Famous expat and author of Treasure Island, Robert Louis Stevenson among friends. His old home is now the site of a museum dedicated to his life here. Above: Paw paw snack for Crush the green turtle.

and scenic treasures. But that won’t happen in a world crying out for new experiences and destinations far from the madding crowd”

Remote and almost unattainable, Samoa lies at the limit of most regional airlines’ reach, while conveniently avoiding mention in most tourist texts dominated by closer cousins Fiji, New Caledonia and Vanuatu. Samoa’s lack of pervasive tourism infrastructure is a key selling point. The relatively few resorts are low impact, relaxed and uncrowded. Vigorous touts, tacky tourist haunts and Chinese-made souvenirs are rare, leaving most attractions to the native ingenuity of the locals.

Tread lightly please

P&O Cruises have rediscovered Samoa thanks to its cruisefriendly port (Apia), engaging excursions, rich culture and relaxed atmosphere and have doubled their scheduled visitations over the next year. Elite surfers and committed sports divers too have jealously kept Samoa under their beanies for years. For me, I’d be happy if Samoa retained its seclusion, cherished its low profile and remained ambivalent about the growing interest in its natural and scenic treasures. But that won’t happen in a world crying out for new experiences and destinations far from the madding crowd. Please, if you go, tread lightly, be polite and don’t hassle the turtles.

Fact File Doing It

The Samoa Tourist Authority has a wide range of travel, tour and accommodation options to suit all budgets. Visit their website at www.samoa.travel

Getting There Samoa is only five hours away from Sydney and Melbourne, and just over three and a half hours flight time from Auckland, New Zealand. Airlines: Virgin Samoa, Air New Zealand, Fiji Airways and Polynesian Airlines operate international flights from New Zealand, Australia, Hawaii, Fiji and American Samoa into Samoa. Airports: The main entry point into Samoa is Faleolo International Airport, 35km from Apia on the island of Upolu. Polynesian Airlines operates daily flights between Apia and Pago Pago. Samoa Air operates flights between Upolo and Savai’i. Check the Samoa Air website for details. The writer was a guest of Samoa Tourist Authority

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Pacific Pulse Survivor returns to Samoa, but this time it’s the Aussies.

Reality TV show Survivor Australia has been welcomed to Samoa by the country’s Prime Minister, Hon. Tuilaepa Fatialofa Auelua Galumalemana Lupesoliai Dr. Sailele Malielegaoi and its friendly people. Earlier this year, Australia’s Network TEN announced

Samoa as the chosen location for its rugged beauty and remoteness. The Survivor team was welcomed to Samoa by the Prime Minister in a reception at the newly opened Sheraton Samoa Aggie Grey’s Hotel and Bungalows at Vaisigano. “Our government since

the filming of Survivor USA on our shores in 2009 and 2011 have recognised the importance of these filming partnerships, with job creation for our people and the injection of new money, into our villages, businesses and generally into the Samoan economy,” the PM said. “I am most aware, that if there is any group who are more aware of the blessings that come with filming productions, it is definitely the village employees, who at the completion of each filming project tell my officials to try and retain the film company in Samoa, for more.” One of the benefits from

this project is the promotional leverage that Samoa will gain in Australia, with 32.5 hours of prime time television, in addition to the pre-airing promotions of the show, which is marketing air-time that small countries such as Samoa cannot afford. A reported 15,000 Australians auditioned to be part of the series. 24 have been cast and will compete in various challenges while marooned in a secret location with only the most basic instruments to survive. The show will be hosted by Australian celebrity Jonathan LaPaglia. Survivor Samoa goes to air later this year.

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Pacific Pulse The Pacific’s best music festival gets underway in Port Vila.

Fest’Napuan is the biggest public event in Vanuatu, drawing artists and supporters from across the region to Port Vila each year. It is thought to be the longest running music festival in the South Pacific. For many Ni-Vanuatu musicians and youth, it is a favourite time of year where you can spend entire evenings tasting food, drinking kava and listening to talented artists from Vanuatu and overseas.

The music festival starts with local string band music on Wednesday, October 12th; contemporary reggae, hip-hop, folk and rock from Thursday to Saturday October 13th – 15th; and ends with religious themed music on Sunday October 16th. “It’s more than just a free public music festival. Fest’Napuan has transformed into an annual cultural event when Port Vila springs to life,” the Vanuatu Tourism Office says. A selection panel chose the final lineup for artists participating in the music festival with the theme “Independence in the Pacific: What we have achieved and what we are still fighting for”. Artists and peaceful activists from across the region come to Fest’Napuan to highlight issues relating to the selfdetermination of Pacific peoples including the struggle for independence in West Papua, Kanaky Nouvelle-Calédonie, Tahiti, Hawai’i and Rapa Nui. This year’s theme will also address challenges that arise after political

independence, based on experiences in Fiji, Solomons Islands, Papua New Guinea and Vanuatu. Participating artists in Fest’Napuan 2016 will include prominent musicians from Papua New Guinea, NouvelleCalédonie, Tahiti, Hawai’i and Rapa Nui. Prominent local Ni-Vanuatu artists will have the chance to share the stage and display their talent. “It is rare to find a free public music festival of this scale in other small Pacific island countries. It is the result of the vision and determination of a hardworking team of volunteers supporting Fest’Napuan each year in partnership with Vanuatu Kaljoral Senta (VKS),” the organising committee told Pacific Island Living. The event itself would not be possible without generous sponsorship provided locally by partners such as TVL (the official telecommunications sponsor of Fest’Napuan), UNELCO, Air Vanuatu along with a wide range of other local partners.

NEW BRAND AMBASSADOR FOR DIGICEL IN NAURU Digicel is delighted to announce champion power lifter Jezza Uepa has signed up for a second term as a Digicel Brand Ambassador for Nauru. Jezza who originally hails from Ewa District in Nauru is very excited about his renewed term to serve as the brand ambassador representing his country Nauru. “Digicel has made my training and moving around extremely easy and I am very happy with the support they give me,” Jezza said. “Without this support I

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would not be able to do what I do and train extremely hard.” Jezza, who recently returned from a training camp in Fiji told of his delight at being a Digicel brand ambassador during a recent visit to Digicel’s Technical and Customer Care team for Nauru based in Khalsa Road, Fiji. Jezza took time out from his busy training schedule to entertain the team and was very much welcomed with the Fijian ‘Bula Smile’. Digicel Nauru Chief Executive Officer, Ben Kealy congratulated Jezza and the team on their outstanding

effort and dedication. “Jezza and the team performed spectacularly at the recent South Pacific Games and his records are something all of Nauru should be proud of” Mr Kealy said. Jezza travelled to the United States last June to compete

at the World Powerlifting Championship Expo in Texas. He was ecstatic with his performance and is looking forward to his next competition, and plans to “clear out the current record holder” to bring the big catch home.


Pacific Pulse Samoa enjoys boost to visitor arrivals, more campaigns planned.

TOURISM NUMBERS SOAR IN SAMOA Official figures received from the Samoa Bureau of Statistics shows continued confidence in Samoa as one of the premier South Pacific destinations of choice with stats setting the tone in what will be a stellar year of visitor arrivals for Samoa. Figures from January to March 2016 show a 12.1% overall increase in visitor arrivals across all market streams compared to the same period in 2015. There were 30,049 visitor arrivals, with New Zealand and the USA performing strongly with increases of 31% and 50% respectively. Holiday figures bucked the global

AUDIT ASSISTANCE JURIDIQUE COMPTABILITÉ CONSEIL

contact@ajc-vanuatu.com | 1

trend with a 27% increase despite global warnings regarding the Zika virus threat, showing confidence in the measures set in place by the government and properties to protect and safeguard their guests. The Visiting Friends and Relatives segment also performed extremely well with a 22% increase. The economy has enjoyed a boost from increased visitor numbers with quarterly earnings recording a 14.73% increase buoyed by the strengthening of the USD against the WST. Australia remains steady, with 6,189 visitors clearing customs for the first

CHARTERED ACCOUNTANTS & BUSINESS ADVISERS

ST FLOOR GOVANT BUILDING | PO BOX 1276 | PORT VILA TEL+ 678 24 404 | FAX+ 678 23 692 | www.ajc-vanuatu.com

AJC_2016_Pacific Island_170X58_FAB2.indd 1

quarter, a figure similar to that in 2015. Sonja Hunter, CEO of Samoa Tourism Authority says that the figures demonstrate visitor confidence thanks to the excellent market campaigns conducted in these key source markets. “Despite hurdles such as travel warnings against the region regarding the Zika outbreak, our guests continue to come. This is because we have successfully contained and eliminated existing cases and have communicated this effectively, as well as set in place follow-through programs and strategies so that our guests can see we don’t just offer lip service,” she said. “The trust that our guests place upon us is a gift that we do not take lightly, and by following through and delivering what we promise: to offer you a safe, healthy and fun holiday experience, we honour that trust which shows in the figures just released. “We have everything that the South Pacific can offer in one destination: pristine environment, unique culture, friendly locals, delicious food and a variety of accommodation types to suit every budget. If these figures are an indication of what the rest of the year could be like, then it’s a job well done to all,” says Sonja.

An Independent Correspondent Member Of

14/06/2016 09:39

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Exclusively for adults and located just 30 minutes’ drive from Port Vila, The Havannah is an oasis of tranquility and your perfect romantic retreat. With only 17 luxurious villas set amidst elegantly landscaped gardens, you can be assured privacy and personalised service, Havannah style.

Samoa Point, North Efate, Vanuatu

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+678 35600

|

reser vations@thehavannah.com

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thehavannah.com


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A: Arbour: Burlap beach wedding arbour: make your own!

B: Balloons: Rose Gold Love Balloon,US$10 www.urbanoutfitters.com

WeddinghGifts t e b a h p l a e

t h g u o r h t

Spring is in the air and along with fine weather comes wedding season. Olivia Waugh rounds up her favourite gift ideas from A-Z for tropical nuptials.

H: Hand Fans: white Battenburg lace hand fan, US$14 www.lunabazaar.com

C: Chairs: Peacock white chair, $795 www.thefamilylovetree.com.au

I: Ice cold: Two of A Kind ice bucket, US$80 www.katespade.com 28 | Islandliving paciďŹ c


D: Dessert: Kate Spade Take the Cake two-piece dessert set, US$65 www.katespade.com

F: Florals: Image: www.ivyroadphotography.com.au

G: Glassware, Kate Spade set of two Darling Point Mr. & Mrs. wine glasses, US$50 www.katespade.com E: Entertainment: Harman Kardon go and play hero portable stereo US$499.95 www.harmankardon.com

L: Lighting : Full Moon string lights, US$30.00 www.anthropologie.com

J: Just Married Decal: just married window cling, US$20.00 www.katespade.com

K: Keepsake: Bride Cake Topper by Goose Grease, US$36 www.ofakind.com islandliving | 29 paciďŹ c


O: Organic Confetti: Throw botanical confetti, US$10 www.leifshop.com

N: Napery: Typographer’s Linen dinner napkins, Set Of 4, $101.60 www.markandgraham.com

e: M: Markers: imag om .c tty re ep lem sty www.

WeddinghGifts t e b a h p l a e

t h g u o r h t

All gifts featured are available online with shipping throughout the Pacific.

U: Umbrella: Ivory Ikat Balinese umbrella: US$79 www.lunabazaar.com

V: Vessels 1: Pampaloni crystal decanter with feather stopper, AU$401 www.luisaviaroma.com 30 | Islandliving paciďŹ c

V: Vessels 2: Mr & Mrs Muse Reversable Vase, US$98 www.jonathanadler.com

V: Vessels 3: Clear Ella square glass bottle, US$3.25 www.lunabazaar.com


R: Runner: Burlap Wedding Aisle Runner. No trim. 20 feet long. www.etsy.com US$76.45

Q: Quick Pics: Lomography instant camera, AU$193 www.asos.com

P: Place card holders: Resin hexagon placecard holders, By ESSELLE, US$36 set of 6 www.ofakind.com

S: Signing Table: Dickson Arrow side table, gold, US$265 www.onekingslane.com

T: Tableware: Kate Spade Larabee Road platinum five-piece place setting, US$139.00 www.katespade.com

X: XOXO: Brass tic tac toe set, US$195 www.jonathanadler.com

Z: ZZZ Beauty Sleep, Evangeline crochet sheet Set, US$78.00-$248.00 www.anthropologie.com Y: Yes I Do Ring Tray: Mr & Mrs ring dish, AU$23.40 www.crateandbarrel.com

W: Wedding cake plate: Seletti hybrid leandra bone china cake stand, AU$185 www.luisaviaroma.com

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IT’S BEEN RIGHT INFRONT OF YOU ALL ALONG WITH A TROPICAL PACE, IT IS THE PERFECT PLACE TO SLOW DOWN, IMMERSE YOURSELF AND BE IN THE MOMENT. RECONNECT WITH NATURE ON PRISTINE BEACHES, UNDER WATERFALLS AND IN TROPICAL LANDSCAPES. MAKE NEW FRIENDS AND SHARE LAUGHTER WITH LOCALS WHO HAVE REGULARLY BEEN VOTED SOME OF THE HAPPIEST PEOPLE ON THE PLANET. EAT NATURALLY AND LOCALLY SAVOURING VANUATU’S ABUNDANT ORGANIC FRESH PRODUCE. TAKE TIME TO RECONNECT AND DISCOVER WHAT MATTERS MOST TO YOU.

WWW.VANUATU.TRAVEL 32 | Islandliving pacific

FACEBOOK.COM/VANUATUISLANDS

INSTAGRAM.COM/VANUATUISLANDS

#DISCOVERVANUATU


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Life is a collection of special moments Let Warwick Le Lagon be part of it Surrounded by natural beauty along the cobalt waters of Erakor Lagoon, Warwick Le Lagon - Vanuatu offers opportunities to create those special moments. Whether planning a relaxing holiday, romantic escape, wedding or conference, guests enjoy comfortable accommodation, exotic scenery, soothing spas, delectable cuisine and a host of activities suitable for all ages.

Warwick Le Lagon - Vanuatu, Elluk Road, Erakor Lagoon, Port Vila, Vanuatu D +678 22313 | info.lelagon@warwickhotels.com | warwickhotels.com/le-lagon-resort 34 | Islandliving paciďŹ c


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Sara Gabriel Cara embellished blusher veil hair ribbon $324 www.shop.nordstrom.com

Temperley London, exclusive Felicity off-the-shoulder lacetrimmed silk crepe de chine gown $4,493 www.net-a-porter.com

Island Elope ight

l e d e t i h w

All items featured are available online with shipping throughout the Pacific. Theodora Warre, ruby, mother-of-pearl and goldplated earrings $33 www.matchesfashion.com/au

Sarah Flint Luisa Flats US$995 www.shopbop.com

All prices Australian dollars unless otherwise stated.

RenĂŠ Caovilla, embellished flat sandals $1,601.40 www. farfetch.com.au

Goat, Carlotta button-up double wool-crepe dress $856 www.matchesfashion.com/au

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Say Yes IDO necklace, US$78 www.katespade.com

ASOS Bridal, Large jewel embellished belt, $47.60 www.asos.com

Brides & Hairpins Kira jewelled headband, $685.54 www.shop. nordstrom.com

Forever Soles ancient dance barefoot sandals, $159.95 www. foreversoles.com

Lanvin, Fil coupĂŠ mini dress $6,410 www.net-a-porter.com

Mizuki, 14 Karat gold, pearl and diamond cuff, $2246 www.net-a-porter.com

Monique Lhuillier, open back long dress $4,662.95, www.farfetch.com/au

Thurley Magnolia dress AU$599.99, www.thurley.com.au

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Nadri Celeste cubic zirconia stud earrings, $137.15 www.shop. nordstrom.com

Seaside Chapel mance

o r c fi i c pa

All items featured are available online with shipping throughout the Pacific.

Jennifer Behr, gold plated Swarovski crystal headband $518, www.net-a-porter.com

All prices Australian dollars unless otherwise stated.

Edge O’ Beyond, Evie garter in buttercream $67 www.wolfandbadger.com/au

ASOS Bridal, wedding floral hair veil, $54.09 www.asos.com

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Infintiy and Beyond, US$58 www.katespade.com

Roland Mouret, Marliia stretch crepe gown, $5216 www.net-a-porter.com


Carlotte Olympia, Rock on Pandora clutch, $949 www.matchesfashion.com/au

Rachel Zoe, Estelle cutout maxi dress, US$495 www.thezoereport.com Stephen Webster + Tracey Emin Love 18-karat gold diamond bracelet, $2813 www.net-a-porter.com

Mary Katrantzou, Laguna A-line jacquard dress, $2563 www.matchesfashion.com/au

Sophie Webster, Lilico appliqued metallic leather sandals, $825 www.net-a-porter.com

Valentino, rockstud leather slingbacks $1,487.69 www.fwrd.com Aquazzura, Leather Wild Things heels $1,086.36 www.fwrd.com

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wedding bookings Fiji’s most sought after and experienced stylists for your perfect wedding day look.

denarau hair salon Internationally recognised products such as Yuko Straightening, Brazilian Blowout, Olaplex plus hairstyling and Make-Up studio.

www.totokahairfiji.com

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Denarau Industrial Park, Denarau Island p +679 672 1177 e bookings@totokahairfiji.com


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8-page wedding special

Pacifimcadreams n e v a e h de in

s e g a i r r ma

Make your wedding location as memorable as the marriage. Come to our Pacific paradise and tie the knot in spectacular beachside style with everything taken care of by a team of professional planners which will ensure you and your guests not only get to celebrate your big day, but enjoy a holiday at the same time. For more on weddings in paradise see, among others, our themed food, fashion and gardening stories this issue.

T

here are almost as many ways to get married as there are terms and definitions for getting hitched from cynical to sensitive – tying the knot, taking the plunge, jumping the broom, holy matrimony, dropping anchor, popping the question, wedlock, union and there are marriages of convenience, shotgun weddings, and on and on .. However you choose to describe your nuptials almost everyone hopes the match will be ‘made in heaven’ We’ve found heaven on earth and it’s right here in the South Pacific. Memorable marriages are made in memorable places and our islands have plenty of these on offer. And once you’ve chosen the location you can opt for big and brassy to boutique and bijou, you can arrive by limo, helicopter or boat or just walk along the beach or directly from your room – easy. Fiji and Vanuatu are the two hottest wedding locations and there are many hotels, resorts, private beachfront villas and islands that cater for every wedding whim and take care of all the details from hair and makeup to food and beverage, to table decoration, flowers, transport and photography (aerial too if you like). Professional wedding planning is a booming business.

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We’ve come up with a few destinations that are sure to fit the bill – literally and figuratively. Just decide whether you want to be on the beach by the pool or on the lagoon, lots of friends to accommodate or children to consider, it’s all covered.

Fiji Festivities

On the Coral Coast of Fiji the Fiji Hideaway Resort and Spa offer a service they describe as one you’ll enjoy “surrounded by loved ones in a romantic beachside setting. With beautiful venue setting options to suit your needs, you can choose from a poolside chapel wedding overlooking the ocean, a beach wedding at Hideaway Point or an authentic Fijian wedding at our quaint village church.” And they’ll provide a night in their luxurious Honeymoon Bure and a romantic breakfast as part of the package. They also have a dedicated wedding coordinator who will ensure every last detail is taken care of. Priced from FJ$2599. Contact: phone: +679 650 0177, email: reservations@hideaway.com.fj or www.hideawayfiji.com


PICTURE: 123RF

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Left and above: Fiji’s Hideaway Resort – palm trees and sandy beaches. Below left: Oyster Island’s overwater bungalows. Below : Narawan’s gorgeous rooms. Below right: All set at The Havannah. Right: On the sand at Uprising, Fiji.

“We’ve “We’ve found found heaven heaven on on earth earth and and it’s it’s right right here here in in the the South South Pacifi Pacific. c. Memorable Memorable marriages marriages are are made made in in memorable memorable places places and and our our islands islands

The world is your Oyster

Why not do something that will really surprise your friends and family and take the Oyster Island option off Vanuatu’s big island of Espiritu Santo. This gorgeous self contained island resort is a short drive from Santo airport and offers the perfect island getaway environment for a unique wedding. Your guests will be delivered by a small boat after a two minute trip from the mainland and then stay in an array of overwater bungalows which enjoy some of the most spectacular sunset views in the Pacific. The resort will help you arrange themed or traditional weddings (or simply vow renewals if that’s what you’re thinking), a fully catered reception for up to 60 guests, a licensed bar, a wedding planner and private island honeymoon accommodation. Where your dreams become reality. www. oysterisland.com

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Honeymoon haven

If you’re looking for luxury, romance and privacy in an idyllic tropical setting then Narawan Retreat is quite possibly the best place for a honeymoon in Vanuatu. Its luxurious beach villa accommodation is just metres from the ocean and when you wake to the sunrise you need not lift your head from your pillow to take in the stunning ocean views. When you book Narawan you book the entire property so it’s just you, your loved one and the caring attentive staff to look after you. Your personal onsite hostess is there to organise anything you desire, Narawan is the ultimate honeymoon environment and will arrange your own personal honeymoon package, it’s your honeymoon after all. To learn more about Narawan or make a booking you can visit their website www.narawanretreat.com.


have plenty of these on offer. And once you’ve chosen the location you can opt for big and brassy to boutique and bijou,”

Book the entire resort

Located in Pacific Harbour, Fiji’s adventure capital Uprising Beach Resort offers couples the option of buying out the entire resort ensuring perfect privacy for you and your guests. An authentic island experience with the convenience of being on the ‘mainland’ is another reason to opt for a wedding at Uprising where up to 100 guests can be included in this intimate and exclusive getaway. The resort has a professional guest services manager backed up by a dedicated team to ensure all runs smoothly on your special day. They can tailor a package to suit or you can choose an existing version which has been tried and tested. In addition you and your friends can take advantage of the direct access to many of Fiji’s most sought after adventure activities from a cage-free shark dive to white water rafting. See: www.uprisingbeachresort.com

Get to the Point

The Havannah Vanuatu is another perfect location for your tropical wedding. Vanuatu’s luxury retreat for couples is ideally situated on a sandy beach providing the ultimate backdrop for your special day. They will ensure that your day is just as it should be – perfect. They can customise the occasion to accommodate your special wishes. The ceremony may be held on the beach at sunset, in the gardens, on the grassy lawn overlooking the turquoise blues of the harbour or even on the jetty. The Point Restaurant at The Havannah has some of the most spectacular views in Vanuatu, with food to match the setting. Whether your wedding party is large or small you can be sure of the perfect reception to celebrate the occasion. Special accommodation packages are available for those celebrating their wedding. www.thehavannah.com

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! s r e n n a l P g n i d d e W r You Kama Catch Me Destination Wedding Photography

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Island Encounters Photography

Island Encounters Photography

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Let us arrange your dream Fijian wedding... Beach, Sunset or Chapel Weddings, Reception Styling & Indian Ceremonies. All you have to say is “I Do!” Email us today on: paradisebride@connect.com.fj

46 | IslandlivingWWW.OCEANSTUDIO.COM.FJ pacific

Island Encounters Photography

Kama Catch Me Destination Wedding Photography


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Left and above: The splendid glamour of times past – The Grand Pacific, Suva. Below left: Holiday Inn, Vanuatu’s sand at your feet marquee. Below and right: Warwick Le Lagon has it all from an elevated terrace to waterside on the lagoon.

“We’ve “We’ve come come up up with with aa few few destinations destinations that that are are sure sure to to fifitt the the bill bill –– literally literally and and fifiguratively. guratively. Just Just decide decide whether whether you you want want to to be be on on the the beach beach

Get the royal treatment

Suva’s Grand Pacific Hotel is the height of colonial-style Pacific luxury and rightly proud of its reputation for historical glamour and iconic status within the region. Set right on Suva Harbour with a majestic mountain range as a backdrop, it couldn’t be better for a memorable wedding. The hotel offers two packages for prospective brides and grooms – The Tadra at FJ$5500 or the more lavish Marau at FJ$7500. Depending on which you choose these offer a variety of locations to choose from including the Matua Lawn, poolside, the Zen Garden or the Victoria Terrace and a red carpet entrance. At an additional cost there are a number of extras to select from including vistiting Fijian warriors, a seranading trio, Justice of the Peace or a minister, bouquet, wedding cake and audio visual equipment. www grandpacifichotel.com.fj

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Where dreams come true

Warwick Le Lagon, Vanuatu where wedding dreams come true. Overlooking the cobalt waters of Erakor Lagoon, the overwater deck is purpose-built for romantic weddings allowing the perfect backdrop for any wedding.The stretch of white sand on the Beach Terrace is the ideal location for an open-air reception under the stars with a choice of marquee. Destination weddings are made easy with Le Lagon’s onsite wedding planner who will tend to every need. A range of fully air conditioned accommodation options for wedding guests with facilities including pools, kids club, non motorised water sports and resort activities make for a memorable getaway for all. Choose from a selection of wedding packages and make every wedding dream a reality at Warwick Le Lagon Vanuatu. www.warwickhotels.com/le-lagon-resort


by the pool or on the lagoon, lots of friends to accommodate or children to consider, it’s all covered.”

Perfect planning

Fiji as a wedding destination has an abundance of choices in terms of locations, packages and most importantly couples’ wedding budgets. The easy way to get the best from your Fiji wedding is to consult Paradise Bride who have been in the business of perfecting weddings here for couples from all over the world since 2003. The company says “We ensure we work with only reputable suppliers that offer the highest quality products in making memories for our clients. We maintain our reputation for handling all our bridal clients and events with the utmost discretion and offer an outstanding individual service for each of our spectacular celebrations.” In addition they are currently expanding their offering for Indian weddings with a range of props arriving from India to ensure an elegant event for all ethnicities. www.facebook.com/paradise.bride

Say ‘I do’ at Holiday Inn

Whether it’s a celebration for two or a gathering of family and friends, Holiday Inn Resort Vanuatu is the island destination to say your ‘I dos’. The resort’s facilities and venues cater for various sized weddings and its experienced team pride themselves on offering a personalised service that is second to none. The Resort Ceremony Cabana, with Erakor Lagoon as a backdrop, provides the perfect tropical setting for the exchanging of vows. From an intimate dinner, relaxed poolside party or a formal affair at the Erakor Ballroom, the options are limitless. Holiday Inn Resort Vanuatu even caters to the traditional Vanuatu wedding experience, where a bride and groom can be brought to a ceremony by traditional canoe to the sound of a Melanesian warrior blowing a shell conch. www.vanuatu.holidayinnresorts.com

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Top: Top: Tamanu Tamanu on on the the Beach Beach is is making making aa spectacular spectacular return return to to Vanuatu’s Vanuatu’s dining dining and and wedding wedding scene. scene. Above Above and and above above right: right: Nanuya Nanuya Island Island Resort’s Resort’s

Sand between your toes

”The Yasawa Islands of Fiji, with untouched natural beauty and abundant sunshine, is one the most romantic destinations in the world to celebrate your love. Your wedding or renewal of vow ceremony at Nanuya Island Resort will be an unforgettable day; with the spectacular setting sun as the backdrop to you exchanging your vows with sand between your toes.” That’s from Nanuya Island Resort’s website and pretty much says it all about the location. When it comes to organising your event Nanuya’s wedding coordinators promise to go above and beyond to make your day effortless and memorable. They offer a range of accommodation options and a diverse choice of catering, along with a range of affordable, all inclusive packages to create a dream wedding. Take a look at www.nanuyafiji.com to get inspired.

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A white sands wedding

With the re-opening (1st October 2016) and refurbishment of one of Port Vila’s most iconic resorts and restaurants Tamanu on the Beach offers one of the Pacific’s most spectacular venues for a beachfront wedding. The renewal of this boutique resort has included the building of the country’s first purposebuilt wedding chapel where the area’s famous sunsets can be captured as a stunning backdrop for photography. There’s dining pavilion seating for up to 65 and accommodation for up to 50 guests in their 15 charming beachfront plantation villas including a honeymoon plunge pool villa. Be among the first to experience the all new Tamanu and make your special day memorable for everyone. The resort specialises in catering for weddings, couples and is adults-only except for school holidays. www.tamanuonthebeach.com


stylish rooms with a view. Top: Don’t forget your hair and make up! Above: One of Paua’s private villas right on the beach, Vanuatu.

Head Hunter +Totoka Hair

Love ya ‘do. No bride is going down the aisle without perfectly styled hair and that means professional help. In Fiji’s Nadibased Totoka Hair + Make Up salon director Leanne will ensure everything’s perfect for the big day. Open since 2014 Totoka employs a team of Fiji’s best stylists who are determined to “make the bride feel amazing at each and every wedding we do”.www.totokahairfiji.com In Vanuatu the well regarded and long established Head Hunter Hair + Beauty Salons with two locations in Port Vila and one in Luganville are experts at wedding hair having worked regularly with local planners over the years. They are renowned for their Wella, Joico and Napoleon Perdis products along with their friendly professional service and inventive stylists. Call on +678 22 868 (Vila) or +678 37 168 (Luganville).

Or perhaps a ‘private resort’?

If something a little more private and exclusive is what you’re looking for then Paua Private Villas can arrange for the celebrations to take place in a private beachside villa on the spectacular Whitesands coastline just 20 minutes from Port Vila. They offer a range of luxurious villas with all facilities and are able to cater for up to 60 guests for the reception either within the main house or in a marquee on the lawns beachside. For your guests there is a range of nearby and adjacent villas to choose from or the nearby Tamanu on the Beach resort for further accommodation. The houses feature absolute private beach frontages, inground pools, on-site staff and catering on request. Paua has an experienced team of planners at your disposal too, should you need them. Email Christiana : info@ paua.co or check the website at: www.paua.co

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Beauty Spot

The Countdown y d a e r g n i d d e w get o t w o H

SIX MONTHS TO GO Problem skin: See a facialist to address any major skin concerns such as acne, redness or uneven pigmentation as these may require multiple sessions of laser or microdermabrasion treatment. Brows: Eyebrows are an underrated feature on our face and they way they are shaped can have a huge impact on how we look, so now’s the time to see a professional. Brows can take six months to grow out and a monthly appointment to have them attended to will ensure picture perfect arches for your big day. The current trend is for thick but well defined brows. Should you leave this too late in the piece, a semipermanent tattoo is also an option. THREE MONTHS TO GO Skin maintenance: Have your skincare routine down pat and adhere to it religiously. This means washing, toning and moisturising morning and night and exfoliating once or twice a week depending on your skin type. Tan: Now is also the time to consider your tanning options for the day. Should you wish to go a la naturale then all you need to do is keep up with your body exfoliation and hydration. Should you want to go down the faux route it is best to try the different tones of spray tan or self applied tan well before the wedding. Keep your dress in mind too and opt for applications that won’t transfer to your gown – oh the horror! ONE MONTH TO GO Hair: Investing in a keratin treatment at a salon will tame frizzy, fly-away hair. Also, have any roots or highlights attended to and a trim to keep hair looking healthy. Regular use of a hair mask at home will also keep your locks in tip top shape Eyelashes: Consider extensions, most brides tend to shed a tear or two on their big day (happy ones we hope) so false eyelashes are a good option. You’ll have the added benefit of thick luscious lashes to bat at your new husband on the honeymoon too. Teeth: a trip to the dentist won’t go astray, even if you don’t choose to go for a whitening treatment (expensive but effective) a good professional clean will also brighten your smile.

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The big day looms, anticipation builds, anxiety increases – everything must be perfect including, and maybe most importantly YOU. Georgie Gordon takes the pain out of the procedure with her stepby-step guide to preparing your skin hair and body for your day on display.

Hair and make-up: if you are having your hair and make-up done professionally book in for a test run so you have plenty of time to change your mind or tweak your look. ONE WEEK TO GO Hair removal: Any unwanted hair – upper lip, bikini line etc. should be removed at least a week prior to the wedding to allow any redness or ingrown hairs time to dissipate. Diet and exercise: Keep an eye on your alcohol intake as well as salty foods and excess carbohydrates, anything that plays havoc with your skin and causes bloating should be avoided, remember you have your honeymoon to indulge! Also, try not to overdo your exercise, as that too can make you retain water and cause puffiness to your face. ONE DAY TO GO Nails: Get a manicure and pedicure to ensure your nails are chip free and keep the colour you use for any last minute touch ups on the day. Prime your skin: Lightly exfoliate and apply a good hydrating mask before you go to bed. And try and get a good nights sleep so you wake up fresh and glowing and ready to walk down that aisle. DO YOUR OWN HAIR – THE DECONSTRUCTED BUN Lauren McCowan, haircare creative director for EVO, created a classic but slightly dishevelled bun for C/MEO 2016 resort collections at Australian Fashion Week, she says ‘we decided there was a no more classic style than the bun, we worked to deconstruct the traditional bun in a way that was worthy of the catwalk but still modern.’ This style is perfect for the contemporary bride and easily achieved should you choose to do your own or have a friend help with your hair. Here’s how: 1. Blow dry hair and brush though a light styling agent. 2. Create a low ponytail at the nape of the neck and secure with an elastic. 3. Twist the ponytail to create a figure eight bun and secure with a second elastic and bobby pins 4. Using your fingers lightly rough up the bun and top section to create texture 5. Spray with hairspray to hold.

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Choose how you fly to Samoa with Seats to Suit

With daily non-stop flights between Auckland – Samoa. airnewzealand.co.nz 56 | Islandliving pacific


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competition

DISCOVER

SAMOA

* See website for terms and conditions.

Discover SAMOA for FREE* by simply visiting the Pacific Island Living website at www.pacificislandliving.com and entering our competition. WIN a holiday for two courtesy of Taumeasina Island Resort, Samoa, Air New Zealand and Pacific Island Living. Experience the ultimate South Pacific holiday and all that Samoa has to offer from the luxurious surrounds of Taumeasina Island Resort in Samoa.

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healthy living

DASH,Don't Crash! I

t’s called the honey-trap, newlywed bliss that leads to newlywed weight gain. Studies show that 22 percent of married women put on a significant amount weight after their wedding, with an average of 10 kilos gained. Studies also show that diets don’t work, not in the long term anyway, so rather than starving yourself pre-nuptials and blow out post honeymoon consider adopting a healthy eating plan early on and sticking to it, your health (and most likely your betrothed) will thank you for it.

It's official – it's healthy

The DASH Diet has been rated the healthiest diet for six years in a row. Originally developed to assist in lowering high blood pressure, hence the acronym Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension, it is more of a lifelong approach to healthy eating as opposed to a fad diet or quick fix. Thankfully as well as lowering blood pressure, cholesterol and reducing the chances of contracting some types of cancer (for instance colon cancer) it does have the added benefit of weight loss. You can be looking at around 8kg in four months which along with the health benefits makes it sound too good to be true. However, it’s a lot less restrictive that most diets, there’s no starving yourself like with the 5:2 diet and the only foods that are completely eliminated are processed, high sodium and high sugar food, but let’s face it no health professional is ever going to recommend you eat those.

Plenty of choice

So what can you eat? Quite a lot actually, you just have to eat the good stuff. The emphasis is on fruit, vegetables and wholegrains. A moderate amount of dairy and meat (including poultry and fish) is recommended as is a small amount of nuts, seeds, legumes and vegetable oils. And on the ‘very rarely’ list is salt, fatty red meat, sweet treats and alcohol.

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s s o l t h g i e w y h t l a e H Diet anxiety is a common problem for brides-to-be but Georgie Gordon finds a healthy solution to keeping your weight under control and maintaining it, even after the honeymoon. DASH the leisurely way to weight loss. And it's good for grooms too.

A typical day on the DASH diet might look something like this: Breakfast: Porridge (made from rolled oats) with stewed or fresh fruit. Snack: Carrots sticks and nuts Lunch: Chicken and salad sandwich on wholegrain bread and a piece of fruit Dinner: Grilled salmon with rice and salad and, you guessed it, another piece of fruit.

Fruit is on the list

This regime is great for people who struggle with low carb diets, as you are still allowed to eat some bread, rice and grains. The amount of fruit is also a little unusual with many diets limiting fruit intake due to their sugar content but something must be right as there is research that suggests DASH may also assist with blood sugar control. Keep in mind a maximum amount of 2000 calories is recommended if you are following it to lose weight and if you are going for the carbs make sure you are doing the exercise to burn them off. This is about a healthy lifestyle choice after all, because once you’ve walked down that aisle you want to live a long and happy life together.

Crash diets to avoid

Every bride and groom wants to look their best on their wedding day but as the science goes, if you lose weight too quickly your muscle begins to break down, leading to a reduced metabolic rate and this means as soon as you stop the diet you will gain weight more easily. So take it slow and steady and avoid these fad diets at all costs:

Cabbage Soup Diet

The cabbage soup diet: this basically sees you eating the same meal for 7-days straight, not only is this an extremely boring diet to commit yourself to but the repetitive nature of it means you are more likely to break it. Not only that, cabbage has no magical weight loss powers, the soup is low in protein and carbohydrates and you are missing out on other important vitamins and minerals.

Baby Food Diet

The baby food diet: This involves replacing some of your meals with baby food to reduce your calorie intake. This will also result in your body not getting all the nutrition it needs as well as being just plain weird.

Lemon Detox Diet

The lemon detox diet: Apparently popular with celebrities, this diet, also known as the Master Cleanse, sees you subsisting on a mix of water, lemon juice, cayenne pepper and maple syrup for 10-14 days. This diet is particularly dangerous and you don’t need a scientist to tell you that the human body needs more than a strange sweet, chili, lemon cocktail to survive. Just no.

Lunar Diet

The lunar diet: And the winner of the weirdest diet of all goes to the lunar diet, also known as the werewolf diet as it requires you fast during during different phases of the moon. Funnily enough there is no scientific data to back up the health or weight loss benefits of this diet whatsoever.

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MARSHALL ISLANDS discover the undiscovered...

A nationwide campaign to promote Marshallese products and services Marshall Islands Ministry of Resources & Development, Division of Trade & Investment Phone (692)625-3206/4020 | Fax (692) 625-7471 | Web www.rmimrd.com | Facebook Be Marshallese, Buy Marshallese 62 | Islandliving paciďŹ c


Natadola Bay Championship Golf Course 6th – 9th October 2016 The FIJI INTERNATIONAL is one of the hottest golf tournaments in the South Pacific and a week not to be missed. This year the quality of the field is anticipated to be the best of the tournament’s short history with the European Tour coming on board as a sanctioning partner. The best golfers from Europe, Australia, New Zealand and Asia will be in action, however the tournament is about more than just the golfing action. From some of the best beachside hospitality to a traditional sevusevu ceremony the FIJI INTERNATIONAL is the place to be seen this October!

For further information on all packages visit www.fijiinternational.com

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Marshall Islands

It’s Still A Mystery not ... e b y a m t Bu

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alleged capture by the Japanese (as spies) through to their supposed transport to Saipan and eventual execution. Sure, it’s a decent conspiracy theory, but one that will not go away. One is drawn to wonder why such effort is expended in decrying this version of events and what any interested parties might be seeking to hide. Let’s consider the scenario, first postulated by researcher and author, Fred Goerner in his 1966 bestseller, The Search for Amelia Earhart. In 1937, the Japanese Empire had control of the Marshall Islands, having been given them by the League of Nations as a protectorate after the defeat of Germany in WWI. Jaluit was then the capital and the Japanese expanded the settlement, as they did elsewhere in the Central Pacific, by encouraging civilian migration from Japan.

A very secret place

Things were going fine for a while, but in the early ‘30s Japan began to quietly build its military presence in these territories in contravention of its agreement with the League of Nations. Chuuk in Micronesia, for example, was expanded to a huge military base to rival Pearl Harbour. One of Marshall’s most prominent modern pioneers, Robert Reimers, born on Jaluit in 1909, recalls the increased activity in his home region in a 1991 interview with journalist and Earhart researcher, Bill Prymak. “When the Japanese Navy kicked out the Germans, they sealed the (Marshall) Islands to all foreigners,” said Reimers. “Before 1935, the work was mainly commercial and communication facilities: harbour dredging; wharves; docks; hospitals; and big, tall radio towers. But after 1935, the Japanese began some military projects like the airfields at Wotje and Maloelap. Emidj, in particular, was a very secret place, and even my local workers had little access to this area.” It follows then that the US government would take particular interest in the ambitious empire, especially after Japan’s military intervention in China and clear signs it was building its armed forces elsewhere in Asia and the Pacific. What if an otherwise

PICTURE: Roderick Eime

M

any theories have been put forward over the years and just as many discounted, but one just keeps coming back. The idea that Earhart was forced down and captured by the Japanese in the Marshall Islands is as unpalatable as it is incredible. But one researcher, Mike Campbell, makes a compelling case for this proposition. To refresh our memories, it was early in the morning of July 2nd, 1937. Earhart and her navigator, Fred Noonan, were flying their specially-modified, twin-engined Lockheed Electra 10E on the final stages of a much-publicised round-the-world flight and supposedly heading to remote Howland Island, 800 Nautical Miles beyond Majuro in the Marshall Islands. Popularly held accounts attest that Earhart struggled with her radio direction finding (RDF) equipment while attempting to contact the specially-located US Coast Guard ship, Itasca, which was supposed to guide her to the tiny 2000m-long island where an airstrip had been prepared especially for her. In a flurry of garbled and confused radio messages in both voice and morse code, Earhart apparently believed she had arrived at Howland, but could not see either the island or the Coast Guard vessel and by 9am, she was silent and never seen or heard from again. Comprehensive and expensive searches were conducted by the US Navy and Coast Guard, but by January 1939, Earhart was officially declared dead. In recent years, ardent investigators have revived an alternate theory contrived at the time, that the plane, critically low on fuel, had ditched near Gardner Island (now Nikumaroro in Kiribati) 560 km southeast of Howland. These researchers, notably The International Group for Historic Aircraft Recovery (TIGHAR), posted on their website “... not only was a safe landing obviously feasible (on Gardner) but we found artifacts that were undeniably aircraft wreckage in the island’s abandoned village.” Despite years of persistence and tantalising clues, TIGHAR have yet to prove the connection to Earhart and their quest continues. Even though there are several discrepancies in the competing account, it’s a compelling story nonetheless supported by numerous witnesses from the time of their


The Amelia Earhart mystery has gripped the imagination for almost 80 years and despite numerous searches and millions of dollars, no conclusive evidence has yet been found regarding the aviator’s disappearance, although Roderick Eime revisits a persistent theory that just may be the explanation.

Japanese WWII ruins on Jaluit. This building was apparently a weather station. The airstrip in current use was built postwar.

Amelia Earhar

t

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innocent civilian flight could be diverted to reconnoitre these secret islands and determine if Japan was demonstrating hostile intentions to its neighbours, the US included? It was well known that Earhart was short of funds after the first (east to west) attempt at the round-the-world flight ended in an expensive accident in Hawaii. But she miraculously acquired enough money to relaunch her attempt just two months later when the flight took off from Oaklands California in the opposite direction. For the final and most difficult section across the Pacific, the aircraft was equipped with advanced RDF equipment and, as mentioned earlier, had the support of the US Coast Guard and a specially built airstrip on remote Howland Island. Proponents of this theory have suggested that was quite an investment for a pair of ‘stunt flyers’. Perhaps Earhart was trying to find Howland after a major diversion past Jaluit to inspect Japanese installations on islands in that area. There are a couple of varying accounts of what happened at this time. One says the captain of the Japanese aircraft carrier Akagi was ordered to send up a fighter to ‘shoot down’ a twin-engined aircraft in the area. Whether forced down by a fighter or lack of fuel and in order to stay consistent with eyewitness reports later, the aircraft must have made some kind of controlled landing that left it more or less intact. Eyewitness accounts say the aircraft came down on or near Mili Atoll, a short distance by air from Jaluit.

Japanese intimidation

Local islander, Eliu Jabambam, remembers there was much clandestine chatter among Marshallese at the time that a male and female pilot had been picked up by a fishing boat and brought to Jaluit. Local workers and civilians were under strict orders from their Japanese masters not to attempt to make any contact with the prisoners or even look at them for fear of severe punishment. So intimidation is cited as one of the reasons this story has not been more widely circulated even to this day. That, and the fact locals were not really that interested in the plight of a couple of mysterious strangers when their own circumstances were so dire. Reimers recalls: “It was widely known throughout the Islands by both Japanese and Marshallese that a Japanese fishing boat first found them and their airplane near Mili. They then transferred them to a bigger boat (believed to be the Koshu Maru). They were brought to Jabor, where Bilimon [Amaron] treated them. They were then taken to Kwajalein and from there to Truk and then Saipan. There was no mystery . . . everybody knew it!” The Bilimon mentioned above was a respected medical orderly on Jaluit and recalls treating a man he believed was Fred Noonan for an injury to his leg. Just to make matters more interesting, there is an eyewitness account by then 11-year old Josephine Blanco who attests the aircraft landed in a restricted military zone on Saipan and the two aviators were immediately arrested and executed as spies a few days later. She told her story to Family Weekly Magazine in July 1960.

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Above: Above: Amelia Amelia Earhart Earhart and and her her specially specially prepared prepared Lockheed Lockheed Electra Electra

“My curiosity was too great to overcome,” said the young girl knowing that if she was caught observing events in the forbidden zone she and her family would be in big trouble. “I waited around to see what would happen. After a few minutes I saw soldiers rush to the scene. They surrounded the plane and, a little later, escorted two people past me: a fairly tall slim woman with a short haircut and dressed in man’s clothing; and a tall man who was wearing dark trousers and a light shirt with short sleeves. I could tell that both were terribly exhausted. But they didn’t appear to be hurt. Nor were their clothes torn.” When Josephine tried to tell her parents, she was quickly silenced and told to forget what she had seen. While there are parallel accounts of how Earhart and Noonan were supposed to have ended up on Saipan, all these versions agree that both died on Saipan. Noonan, as a male, was apparently beheaded either soon after arrival or after some years in a cell at the old Japanese jail with Earhart in a nearby cell. Other eyewitnesses say she was lead out of the jail and shot by a firing squad just prior to the US invasion in mid-1944, while another account claims she perished from dysentery. Saipan resident Manual Muna is convinced the two were incarcerated in the old jail and can even point out the cells she and Noonan are reputed to have been locked in for up to


Fact file Getting there: Nauru Airlines flies to Majuro from Brisbane, Fiji, Nauru and FSM. Accommodation Hotel Robert Reimers Tel (692) 625-5131 email colettereimers@rreinc.com Long Island Lojkar Hotel/ - Tel (692) 6253560 http://www.piimajuro.com

10E.; Marshall Islands issued stamps in 1987 to support the local version of the Earhart story.

seven years. Another Saipan resident, Mrs. Nieves Cabrera Blas, lived near the Japanese headquarters and recalls: “One day I am working on the farm and I see three Japanese motorcycles. Amelia Earhart is in a little seat on the side of one motorcycle. She is wearing handcuffs and she is blindfolded. I watch and they take her to this place where there is a hole been dug. They make her kneel in front then they tear the blindfold from her face and throw it into the hole. The soldiers shoot her in the chest and she falls backwards into the grave...”

A blown safe

To further compound the intrigue, liberating US soldiers claim to have seen a plane resembling the Electra removed from a hangar at the Aslito Airfield and torched at the orders of some higher authority. Another soldier blew open a safe he’d found in the rubble thinking he would find money or valuables. Instead, so he says, he found Earhart’s briefcase full of her documents. USMC and Saipan veteran, Robert Wollack, recalls finding the briefcase. “After we blew the safe, I grabbed the briefcase and ran off with it. When I opened the case, lo and behold, it was Amelia Earhart’s papers that she had on the flight. But there was something wrong. The papers were bone dry. They’d never been wet.”

When one considers the full implications of the Saipan theory, it leads to the premise that Earhart and Noonan had, either through poor skill on their part or good intelligence on the part of the Japanese, allowed themselves to be captured during their spy mission. A cover story was created around the Howland Island version in order to preserve the reputation of Roosevelt’s government and avoid any diplomatic backlash with the militaristic Empire of Japan. To further support his version, Goerner recalls a conversation he had with one of the US’s heroic commanders from WWII, five-star Fleet Admiral Chester W. Nimitz, then Chief of Pacific Operations where he said: “Now that you’re going to Washington, Fred, I want to tell you Earhart and her navigator did go down in the Marshalls and were picked up by the Japanese.” And Nimitz was not alone. In 1966, Marine Gen. Graves B. Erskine, deputy commander of the V Amphibious Corps at the battle of Saipan, famously told news reporters, “It was established that Earhart was on Saipan. You’ll have to dig the rest out for yourselves.” Will the truth ever be known?

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Resort Report

Places we love c fi i c a P e h t n i s y a magic st

Five of our favourite resorts across the Pacific. Stay for a week, a month or a lifetime.

Nanuka Auberge Resort The Nanuku Auberge Resort Fiji – the Coral Coast’s boutique hotel that has won accolades from the likes of TripAdvisor (#1 resort on Fiji), Condé Nast Johansen’s awards for excellence, and Andrew Harper – has just released its first villa ownership offering: The Auberge Beach Villas. And just like that, owning a home in this island paradise has become as effortless as it is luxurious. How effortless? The Auberge Beach Villas are turnkey, freehold properties. Unlike fractionals, they’re yours – all yours. And they’re located on the most accessible island of Fiji’s 333 specks of paradise – Viti Levu, with its international airport, an

easy hop from Nanuku’s private airstrip. The villas are woven into three kilometres of beachfront in Pacific Harbour, on a wide arc of soft, inviting sand with clear water that is swimmable year-round. Pacific Harbour is known as Fiji’s Adventure Capital – enticing you with excursions on, around, and under the water: from surfing, scuba, and snorkeling to waterfall hikes, river rafting, and food safaris. Just to name a few! Steps to the north of the villas is the holiday bure of Fiji’s president. Yes, the beach is that good, while to the south is the Nanuku Auberge Resort Fiji. Owners at The Auberge Beach Villas enjoy five-star resort amenities and services, including the oceanfront infinity pool (though all the villas also have their

Vanuatu’s Most Sophisticated

BeachfrontVilla Rentals

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E MANAG

Contact Christiana or Toga. T: +678 775 1793 or +678 775 1792 or +678 26 108 E: info@paua.co W: www.paua.co for villa details

M

EN T

UL TAN Y C

Paua offers a range of spectacular private, absolute beachfront villas in the Whitesands/Narpow Point area of Efaté. On-site staff and en-suite accommodation in-ground pool plus private beach available. In-house catering, airport transfers and concierge advice on request. Paua for your perfect ‘private resort’ holiday or function. Paua villas are also perfect for weddings U which can be professionally arranged. PA A S

+ CON


The Auberge Beach Villas are designed by Perth-based Grounds Kent Architects. The villas pair Fijian craftsmanship with a fresh, modern lightness. There’s seamless indoor-outdoor living and generous gathering places inside and out. There are only a handful of these turnkey one and two bedroom homes available. You can reserve one solely for the use of you and your family, or place it in the resort’s rental program, for potential return on your investment. Starting at just US$495K. www.nanukufiji.com

Heritage Park Hotel Nanuku’s luxurious surrounds are all yours.

own plunge pool!), the award-winning Clubhouse restaurant (in collaboration with famous Chef Jacques Reymond), the soothing Lomana spa, a multitude of activities for toddlers to teens, and even excursions to a private island. Your family will meet, and doubtless fall in love with, the Villa Mamas and Buddies who quickly become like extended family anticipating your every need. The villas and resort are part of Auberge Resorts Collection, California-based hoteliers who already bring a unique sense of place and high touch service to spectacular properties in the USA, Mexico, and Costa Rica. Which means as a villa owner, you’ll enjoy reciprocal privileges at six of the world’s most beautiful destinations.

From Prince William and Duchess Kate to prime ministers and an array of Pacific officials, it is with due reason the Heritage Park Hotel claims the reputation of being Honiara’s best hotel. Spanning over five acres on the former Governor General residence, the grounds of the Heritage Park Hotel are tropical green and inviting with 48 hotel rooms and 39 apartments. The lead-in rooms are tastefully furnished with a comfortable queen bed or twin beds, a well-appointed ensuite, wardrobe, tea and coffee facilities and private balcony with lounge and dining area and free wifi access during your stay. The executive suits have a Studio layout and all the facilities of a serviced apartment, with stunning views of the lush landscaped gardens and a vista of the sea. The suites are fully furnished with kitchenette, laundry facilities, bathroom and wardrobe, tea/coffee making facilities and free wifi access

• Waterfront Self Contained Accommodation • Poolside Restaurant • Wifi • Watersports

5 mins from town | www.thebeachfrontresort.com davecross@thebeachfrontresort.com | (678) 36 911

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Resort Report

Above: Honiara’s Heritage Park Hotel, the capital’s finest. Right: Tamanu on the Beach is back to the relief of every one of its many fans.

during your stay. Ideal for short to medium term stay. The pool area is particularly inviting, with an open-air bar and causal dining area. There is also an air conditioned restaurant and undercover restaurant and bar area close to the impressive reception area. The Heritage Park Hotel offers both short and long stay rates, is centrally located in downtown Honiara but enjoys sweeping views across Iron Bottom Sound. For information and bookings see: www.heritageparkhotel.com.sb

Tamanu on the Beach

If you ask any local or long term expat in Vanuatu, they’ll tell you their favourite place for lunch was always Tamanu. A gorgeous five-fare private resort, Tamanu was renowned for its restaurant for over 15 years. Sadly, when cyclone Pam struck Port Vila in March 2015, Tamanu was forced to close while the owners worked out what to do next. Eighteen months on and to the delight of its former clientele, Tamanu has been sold and has undergone a massive refurbishment and extension, including additional fares, a

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larger bar and restaurant area, swimming pool and plunge pools and even a wedding chapel. The resort will be a little different than before, with new furnishings and fittings, taking it up a notch in the star ratings. But, the owners promise, it will still have the same Tamanu feel – the same breathtaking setting on White Sands beach and the same terrific, loyal staff. Tamanu is due to open this month – if you’re thinking about a Vanuatu holiday or you’re in Vanuatu, do call out for lunch – it will be one of those days you remember forever, because there’s a long tradition of lunches stretching into the evening and expanding to accommodate ‘extras’ at your table. Trust me, no one ever goes to Tamanu just once. www. tamanuonthebeach.com

Sheraton Samoa Aggie Grey’s Resort

Wake up to the sound of the crashing waves and feel the tropical breeze come through the windows. Take in views of the shimmering Pacific Ocean and the blue waters washing up to the beautiful island from your private balcony or patio.


Resort Report

Above: Sheraton’s Samoa Aggie Grey’s Resort, one of Samoa’s most famous names. Right: Vuda Marina restaurant and Sunset Bar.

From the Ocean View Rooms to the One Bedroom Suites, guest rooms at the Sheraton Samoa Aggie Grey’s Resort provide you with the perfect start to a luxurious and relaxing holiday with family or friends. Experience Samoan Culture with Fia Fia Polynesian Show Every Friday night, the Apolima Fale comes alive for Fia Fia – Aggie Grey’s Polynesian cultural show. Experience the vibrant and exotic Samoan history and culture through the art of song and dance performed by local Samoan dancers. Most magnificent is the Samoan fire dance performance, where you will witness the skilled dancers light up the night sky with their torches, leaving you awestruck. Accompanying these performances is a delicious feast for you to indulge in. Featuring traditional favourites and international cuisine, the feast is not to be missed. www.sheratonsamoaaggiegreyresort.com

Vuda Marina

Vuda Marina Fiji is a family-owned operation with an awardwinning restaurant situated only 15 minutes from Nadi Airport, but best of all is its proximity to some of Fiji’s most stunning

islands in the Mamanuca group and slightly further west, the Yasawas. The marina’s achievements in hospitality have been recognised recently by several awards, including – winner of the 2015 AON Excellence in Tourism award for Best Restaurant in Fiji and winner of TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence for the past three years in a row. The Boatshed Restaurant and Sunset Bar is the perfect place to enjoy great food and while away a bit of sunset drinking time before dinner. Here you’ll have a live band on Friday nights from 6pm to 9pm and on Sundays from 2pm to 7pm, weekly specials including a half-price pizza night (Tuesdays), Winey Wednesdays and Happy Hour on Thursdays as well as some signature food choices like: Tomahawk Steak, Kokoda, Coconut Crusted Walu, Seafood Linguini and Lobster Pizza. If you’d prefer to step out and amuse yourself with some local attractions Vuda is close to the Zipline Adventure, Garden of the Sleeping Giant, Abaca Hike and the Mudpools and also in close proximity to the First Landing Resort and the Anchorage Resort. More info at: vudamarinafiji.com.fj .

TAKE A RIDE IN PARADISE...

T: +678 26517 E: europcar@vanuatu.com.vu W: www.europecar.com

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Play and stay

Vanuatu Marlin Classic F

ishing is the most popular sport in the world, it attracts all manner of people and they say, once it’s in your blood, you’re hooked for life. Ron and Louise Pattenden are no exception to the rule. The fishing mad couple are well known in Vanuatu for the development of the game fishing industry and their genuine love of the sport. That commitment and love led the couple to their labour of love - the Blue Marlin Lodge. What once was a derelict property on the water in Port Vila harbour is on its way to becoming the premiere fishing lodge in the region. The project started in February 2015 when Ron and Louise wanted to combine their love of fishing with a lodge that would eventually give keen fisher people the ultimate holiday/fishing holiday. Ron says as a 16-plus year resident of Vanuatu, his love of the islands and the people inspired this new venture. The project has not been without it setbacks, however. “Cyclone Pam in all her fury hit not long after works began, there was extensive damage to the grounds, including many large trees either snapped at the trunk or limbs hanging off,” Ron said. Nearly 300 truck loads of debris and trees were taken to the tip or given away. One of the buildings was dismantled and gifted to Pro Medical for a medical centre at Havannah Harbour. Other buildings were dismantled and either given away or reused.

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“Future plans are to build more villas as well as do a total makeover on the building overlooking the Lodge.” Plans for the Blue Marlin Bar & Restaurant which will offer first class dining with views to die for and for those just wanting to lounge around the pool, have tapas and cocktails and watch the sunset or the cruise ships departing are well underway. Blue Marlin Lodge has a three bedroom self contained house with a large undercover balcony looking out over Port Vila harbour towards Iririki Island Resort. It’s a spectacular sight to watch the cruise ships come in and depart with unforgettable sunsets too. Completion of an additional waterfront two bedroom, three bathroom self contained villa is only weeks away. Short term holiday rentals so close to the Port Vila CBD are hard to come by, especially with such beautiful views and security. Singles, couples, families or team events can take advantage of accommodation/fishing packages. For those that prefer to be land based there are numerous other activities to partake of. Whilst the accommodation is all about style and relaxation, Blue Marlin Lodge really is all about fishing. Two 40ft Caribbean fishing machines were brought in from New Zealand and Australia, the 100ft wharf was transformed and now can supply low sulphate diesel to boats up to and exceeding 100ft long. The wharf pilings were completed by Fletchers and J. S. Hill & Associates when the wharf was completed in 1988. The two

PICTURE: Ron and Louise Pattenden.

The The annual annual Vanuatu Vanuatu Marlin Marlin Classic Classic attracts attracts anglers anglers from from all all over over the the region, region, with with the the winners winners competing competing in in Cost Cost Rica. Rica.


companies supervised the form work and specifications for the wharf as well, after the pilings were installed. Louise said they were fortunate to have the beautiful ship Ultimate Lady as their first fuel customer. “The fuel pump is one of the fastest in Vanuatu so filling up your vessel can save you a great deal of time compared to other fuel stations. There is also water supply and options for plugging into electricity.” Blue Marlin Lodge has a courtesy bus so those filling up with fuel who also needs supplies for their boats can be assisted. “We are only a two- minute drive from Au Bon Marché Supermarket and five minutes from town for the fresh local produce the lovely ladies sell at the markets,” Louise said.

Vanuatu Marlin Classic

Blue Marlin Lodge is now home to the Vanuatu Marlin Classic. The Classic, now in its 15th year is a non profit event and relies on the support of sponsors. This year’s Vanuatu Marlin Classic was organised by Ron and Louise and hosted at the Blue Marlin Lodge and the Warhorse Saloon Restaurant and Bar in May. “There were 11 boats and the prize pool was in excess of 5,000,000 vatu. Next year, as we fully recover from Cyclone Pam we hope to attract even more international teams and boats,” Ron said. The Classic enjoyed five days of clear skies and relatively calm waters. Fishing was slow with only five marlin being tagged and released. Numerous wahoo, mahi mahi and yellow fin tuna

were weighed in for heaviest other species. First prize valued at VT2,000,000 was taken out by Blue Marlin Lodge’s charter vessel Reel Affair with a team from New Caledonia. Anglers Rinaldo Roess, Nicolas Henru, Roby Courtot and Thierny Darras headed off to Costa Rica to fish the OffShore Championships. The skipper was Tony Osterman and deckhand Troy Ryan. Second place went to a local boat Mamma Mia – with anglers Nigel Kittow, George Kittow, Gary Vasconcellos and Lou Donchos. Third place went to another Blue Marlin Lodge vessel, Reel Escape – with anglers Ron and Louise Pattenden, Tony Devcich, skipper Brodie Newton and deckhand Lawrence Manashe. Other prizes were awarded for Champion Angler: George Kittow on Mamma Mia; heaviest yellow fin: 49.7kg Steve Bean on Escapade; heaviest wahoo: 15kg – Dan Webb on Reel Capture; heaviest mahi mahi:13.18kg – Rob Constance on Reel Capture “Next year the Vanuatu Marlin Classic will be held on dates to be released shortly and we are expecting teams to come from New Caledonia, New Zealand, Australia, Papua New Guinea as well as local Vanuatu entries,” Ron said. For further information please contact admin@ bluemarlinlodgevanuatu.com or check out facebook for updates. ..and www.bluemarlinlodgevanuatu.com

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Dining Out

Pacific dining guide The dining scene in the Pacific continues to expand and revitalise as newcomers open and old favourites re-invent themselves. Here’s our four page guide to the best.

PICTURE: Likuliku Island Resort, Fiji.

Likuliku Island Resort, Fiji offers adults-only dining sophistication in spectacular surrounds.

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Above left: Coral Sear Resort and Casino in Honiara, Solomon Islands seves up delicious food including organic steaks.

Coral Sea Resort & Casino Newly opened in December 2015 Coral Sea Resort & Casino is a little piece of luxury to be found in Honiara, just a short walk from the city centre to Town Ground. Set in a architecturally designed building beautifully suited to the Pacific, Coral Sea is not only a Casino, where comfortable, air conditioned rooms offer blackjack, keno and poker machines, there’s more to enjoy here. On hot days take a dip in the pool and order a drink or snack and enjoy it poolside. Boasting an open air cocktail and coffee bar where you can order drinks and light meals while catching up with friends. Or if you prefer just sit back and enjoy your drink while looking out beyond the pool to the turquoise ocean. The cocktails are a diverse array from your old favourites to some specially crafted unique cocktails only found here, it’s the perfect place to unwind.

The highlight for many is Haydn’s Steakhouse. As the name suggests steak is on the menu, if your after t-bone, eye fillet, rib fillet or rump you will not be disappointed. Beef sourced from Australia, New Zealand and Vanuatu ensures the finest quality for guests. However steak is not the only item on the menu, Haydn’s presents a modern Australian influence with an Asian Pacific twist. Diners can enjoy beef ribs, duck rolls, fresh fish or the seafood tower. With live entertainment most evenings it provides excellent food, beautiful views and a great atmosphere. Open for lunch with burgers and chicken parmigiana or afternoon drinks with Asian platters for groups. Haydn’s is the place to get away from it all in Honiara. – Bronwyn Norris

Likuliku

Craving a top-grade gastronomic experience on a Fijian

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Likuliku’s private dining (above) and Cardo’s waterfront bar and restaurant at Port Denarau (above right).

island? Fiji astounds here too. Malolo Island’s Likuliku Lagoon Resort Fiji (likulikulagoon.com), just 25 kilometres from Nadi International Airport and reachable by boat or seaplane, is home to Fiji’s first and only water bure island resort. If staying in a villa on stilts positioned in ridiculously good-looking sea is on your bucket list, this is the place to head. New Zealand-born chef Ihaka Peri has headed up the kitchen since 2013 and his passion lies in the yearning to wow diners with daily changing menus that excite. He sources fresh vegetables, fruits and herbs from the onsite garden (“Currently we have numerous types of heirloom tomatoes and cherry tomatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, kale, local watercress and spinach, lemons, limes, chilli, micro herbs, local sage, coriander, aloe vera, local chestnuts, pumpkins, pumpkin blossoms, mint for the coco mojitos, lemongrass, oregano, thyme, rosemary, basil, Thai basil and sweet basil,” he says

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without taking a breath) and together with the Likuliku team established the island’s first bee farm in August 2014). - Tatyana Leonov.

Cardo’s at Denarau

The thing that’s great about Port Denarau is after the cruise ships have departed, the shops have shut and the sun begins to set, the locals come out to play. The best known local is Richard (Cardo) Slatter, owner of Cardo’s Steakhouse. This fun, fiesty and flamboyant (well, perhaps well dressed is a better description) Fijian is the life and love of Cardo’s. A sharp wit and just as sharp a tongue, Cardo has been doing what he does best – restaurants and bars for longer than he cares to admit or remember. Cardo’s is famous in Fiji for its steaks and fish served on a sizzling hot plate. Fresh seafood, wood-fired pizzas,


Chinese wok creations, cocktails, delicious desserts and daily specials. The Fijiian staff is fun and attentive, usually under the watchful eye of Cardo. The chefs select only the best prime New Zealand steaks, and have been doing it so well for so many years, the Kiwi meat exporters come to them daring to offer nothing but the very best. Cardo’s is laid back and casual; sometimes with a live band, sometimes sport on the big screen. It’s the sort of place you want to hang out with mates, or join a table of expats and locals. It is a favourite of Pacific Island Living’s and we highly recommend it. - Tiffany Carroll

V at Sofitel Fiji Just a stone’s throw away from Port Denarau French chef Jean-Marc Ruzzene presents diners with a sophisticated French-inspired menu at the suave V Restaurant at Sofitel Fiji Resort and Spa. Unlike its perennially busy Salt Restaurant which overlooks the gigantic family pool V Restaurant is another realm,with an elegant interior, a colour scheme of browns, crèmes and beiges dominates the elegant room.. Here everything is beautifully presented (think crisp table linen and beautiful menus), service always comes with a smile, and dishes whizz out looking like artworks. An out-of-this world experience … in the tourist centre of Fiji. - Tatyana Leonov

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Christiana Cooks

Nuptial

NIBBLES Christiana Kaluscha has some recent personal knowledge of beach weddings and catering for a casual after party. Here she shares her favourite cocktails and light and easy finger food as accompaniments.

Why Why not not do do something something different different and and serve serve aa signature signature drink drink for for your your wedding wedding guests? guests? Try Try these these two two refreshing refreshing cocktails cocktails (above) (above)

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reaming of a romantic wedding somewhere tropical? Let’s be honest, who wouldn’t want to marry the love of their life on a beautiful, tropical beach? Sandy beaches, a light summer breeze and warm sunlight bathing your face are the picture of a perfect beach wedding. The Pacific has become a popular destination for weddings with teams of professionals on hand to make things simple – all you have to do is let your event organiser arrange your special day and then say ‘I do’. You’ve proclaimed your love, spoken your vows and kissed your groom, now it’s time to get the party started with a cocktail hour. Champagne is the traditional choice to celebrate, but why not do something different and serve a signature drink for your wedding guests? Try these two refreshing cocktails reflecting the colours of the tropical sea and sunset. And then, my suggestions for some light finger food to go along with the drinks.

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Fire and Passion Ingredients

• 2 parts Vodka • Pulp from one passion fruit • Dash simple syrup • 1 oz. blood orange juice • Pour over crushed ice into a glass. Garnish with a slice of lemon peel.

Blue Lagoon Ingredients

• 1 Part Vodka • 1 Part Gin • 1 Part Blue Curacao • 1 Peel Lemon • Fill a mixing glass with ice cubes. Add all ingredients. Stir and strain into a chilled glass. Garnish with lemon. reflecting the colours of the tropical sea and sunset.

Crab meat stuffed cucumber bites (12 servings) After all the excitement, everybody will be ready for some savoury finger food. On a hot tropical day it is best to serve light and cold finger food. Start with these impressive little appetizers which come together quickly, making them perfect for entertaining. Use the freshest crabmeat you can find and be sure to pick it over and remove any any stray pieces of shell.

Ingredients

• 500 g fresh lump crabmeat, picked over for shell fragments • 1/2 cup mayonnaise • 2 celery stalk, finely diced • 2 Tbs. snipped fresh chives • 2 shallots, minced • Juice from 1 lemon • Sea salt & freshly ground pepper, to taste • 4 small Lebanese cucumbers, cut into 12 pieces • 1/4 tsp. paprika • Dill or fennel flowers for garnish 

PICTURES: Christiana Kaluscha + Shutterstock

“You’ve proclaimed your love, spoken your vows and kissed your groom, now it’s time to get the party started with a cocktail hour. Champagne is the traditional choice to celebrate, but why not do something different and serve a signature drink for your guests”

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Method

• In a bowl, stir together the crabmeat, mayonnaise, celery, chives, shallot, lemon juice and salt. • Peel the cucumber leaving the peel on every 2 cm to make a pattern. Cut the cucumber into 12 x 4 cm size pieces. • Take the seeds out with a small spoon, but leave about ½ centimetre on the bottom. • Fill with the crab mixture and place a dollop of the crab mixture on top of each cucumber slice, sprinkle with the paprika and garnish with flowers. Arrange on a platter and serve immediately. .

Prawns on avocado mousse (12 servings) This is an all time favourite with guests and easy to prepare

Ingredients

• 12 prawns, peeled and deveined, tail on • 2 garlic, finely diced • Sea salt, freshly ground black pepper • 2 Tbsp. Olive Oil • 1 big ripe avocado • 1 garlic, finely grated • freshly squeezed lemon juice • ½ Tsp. Cayenne pepper (optional) • Sea Salt, Parsley for garnish • 1 Tbsp. black sesame seeds to garnish

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Method

• Heat the olive oil in a saucepan add the garlic and fry the prawns 30 seconds each side • Add salt and pepper, sprinkle with lemon juice, take immediately off the heat, cover and set aside to cool • Cut Avocado in half, take the seed out and scoop the flesh into a bowl • Add the lemon juice, cayenne pepper and salt to taste and mash everything up roughly • Fill 2 Tsps. of the avocado mash into the spoons, top with one prawn and garnish with parsley, seeds

Smoked salmon on rye sourdough baguette (12 servings) Ingredients

• 300 g smoked salmon • 12 slices rye sourdough baguette, 1.5 cm thick • 1 Philadelphia cream cheese • 1 Tbsp. Greek Yoghurt • 3 Tsp. Wasabi paste (or to taste) • sea salt and freshly ground pepper • Fresh dill for garnish

Method

• Mix the Philadelphia cheese with the yogurt and wasabi paste (to taste) • add salt and pepper to taste • Fill the mix into a piping bag and spread on the baguette slices making a circle • Top with half a slice of smoked salmon • Garnish with fresh dill

“The Pacific has become a popular destination for weddings with teams of professionals on hand to make things simple – all you have to do is let your event organiser arrange your special day”


Sourdough canapés with rare roast beef and horseradish cream (12 servings) Ingredients

• 12 slices sourdough baguette, 1.5 cm thick • 350 g aged scotch fillet, 3.5 cm thick • 2 Tbsp. Peanut oil • Sea salt • ½ Tsp. black cracked pepper • 250 g sour cream • 2 Tsp. horse radish cream (or to taste) • 1 Tbsp. parsley, cut into small pieces • 1 cup small rocket leaves or Mizuna

Method

• Brush the meat with the oil. Sprinkle black pepper and sea salt onto a plate, then press the meat into the seasoning moments

before placing it into the hot pan. For a 3.5 cm high steak, you will need about 3 minutes each side for medium rare. • With only a few minutes leeway between rare and well done, timing is key. Use your fingers to prod the cooked steak – when rare it will feel soft, medium-rare will be lightly bouncy, and well-done will be much firmer. • Add a Tsp. of butter and leave it to rest at room temperature until cooled. • Cut into thin slices. • While the meat is resting, mix the sour cream with the horseradish, parsley and add salt to taste. • To serve, spoon some of

the horseradish mix on a slice of baguette, add some rocket leaves, roll

up a slice of the beef and place on top. Garnish with a green-pitted olive.

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AUGUST 2015

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Weekly Services

• Chuuk • Kosrae • Pohnpei • Majuro • Tarawa • Nauru • Brisbane • Nadi

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abode

SITTING TARGETS e l y t S i d n Sca

Toby Preston has to sit down after discovering how much some mid-century Scandinavian furniture is selling for only 80 years after it was manufactured. But that’s not the point, good Nordic design endures and today a designer stool can be bought from Ikea for less than the price of a bottle of wine.

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hat is it about Scandinavians and chairs? They are hardly the most sedentary of people, they have a reputation for loving outdoor activities in often the worst weather imaginable and their preferred form of transport appears to be a pushbike … but they are responsible for some of the world’s greatest chair and sofa designs. Maybe since the place is a meteorological wasteland for several months a year those that do stay indoors want to be sitting comfortably. Whatever the explanation, and it’s probably as simple as being culturally inclined to value good design in general that they also just happen to have created a lot of good looking places to place your bum. The golden age of Scandinavian design is agreed to have spanned the period from the 1930s to the seventies and included names like Alvar Aalto, Arne Jacobsen, Hans J Wegner, Eero Saarinen and Sven Ivar Dysthe. The works of these pioneers of furniture design are now highly sought after and sell for tens of thousands of dollars at auction. But good Nordic design endures today with many affordable pieces widely available. And of course we’re all aware of Sweden’s most ubiquitous furniture retailer – Ikea. They may sell it flat-packed but it’s still good design and as cheap as you’re going to get for a well thought out piece of furniture, and they credit their designers. But back to the originals, You’ll know many famous chair and furniture designs without necessarily being aware they are Scandinavian, think the tulip chair and the womb chair by Finn, Eero Saarinen (his father, Eliel designed Helsinki’s art nouveau Central Station building among many others). And the Armchair 400 Tank chair by Alvar Aalto with its reindeer fur upholstery and his wonderfully simple tea cart trolley, and the much reproduced Arne Jacobsen Egg chair or the Poet sofa by Finn Juhl or the Palmio chair by Alvar Aalto and probably the most imitated dining chair originally known as the Series 7 by Arne Jacobsen.

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3 Nordic classics. 1: Alvar Aalto’s 1936 design, the Tank or Armchair 400. 2: Also by Aalto the Paimio designed for sanatorium patients so that they could breathe more comfortably, you can still buy this chair new for around AU$4000. 3: Finn Juhl’s sofa circa 1951, an example of this design sold at auction in 2013 for £92,500 which was about £50k above the estimate. 4:Another Finn Juhl piece, the Port sofa which is a much reproduced design and still popular today. 5: Sven Ivar Dysthe sitting in his Planet chair.

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Hans Wegner’s Round chair (also known simply as ‘the chair’) was chosen for US presidential candidates Kennedy and Nixon to sit in during their first campaign debate. But it was probably Alvar Aalto whose innovations most represent Nordic design, he started his career as an architect and in 1929 won a competition to design a sanatorium for tuberculosis suffers in Paimio in Finland. He not only designed the building but also a lot of the furniture within. Along the way he developed a technique for steam bending birch timber which led to the distinctive curved ply designs so common today in Scandinavian furniture. Indeed the Bauhaus-inspired Paimio chair was designed specifically for tuberculosis patients so that they could breathe more comfortably while seated. He is also the creator of that very familiar stool (the Stool 60) with the plywood disc for a seat and four legs that curve under it at the top – almost identical to the one you can now buy at Ikea or Target for upwards of AU$15 although a good condition original will set you back about AU$700. I think that’s called the trickle down effect.

Investment pieces

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Speaking of investment furniture, Phillips an international auction house, sold a Finn Juhl Sofa (circa 1951) for £92,500 and a modest looking ‘Chieftain’ armchair (circa 1949) by the same designer for £422,500 at their Nordic Design auction in London in 2013. At the same auction an aluminium ceiling light manufactured in Denmark in 1942 and just over a metre in length sold for £104,500! While the mid century models attract most attention from collectors and aficionados, design in these sub arctic countries didn’t stop there; today there are many newer established practitioners with new arrivals coming through all the time. Among the notable more recent designers and manufacturers are Hay, Normann Copenhagen, Muuto, Menu and Norwegians Anderssen & Voll. So start collecting and cash in on future collectibles.

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Sitting comfortably Scandi style. 1:The Arktis by Hans Brattrud. 2: Look familiar? It should this is an 80-year-old Alvar Aalto design classic you can buy from Ikea for less than 20 bucks. 3: Ikea’s Poäng in natural birch veneer. 4: Finn Juhl Chieftain only £422,500. . 5: Muuto modern in cognac silk leather. 6: Fleming Lassen armchair circa 1938 in sheepskin and mahogany, produced by Thorald Madsen of Denmark and sold for £98,500 in 2013. 7.The iconic Arne Jacobsen Egg chair from 1958.

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“The works of these pioneers of furniture design are now highly sought after and sell for tens of thousands of dollars at auction.”

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Pacific History

t e e l F t Ghos

Witness to War F

or decades the sunken fleet of Truk sat sleeping and slowly rusting below the gentle waters of the 500 square mile lagoon. The thousands of men who perished that fateful day in 1944 remained forgotten to all but a handful of souls who recall the carnage and maelstrom of death and fury that descended from the sky, changing their world forever. One man who remembered that Armageddon better than anyone was Kimiuo Aisek. As a bright and charming youth, the young Kimiuo had gained the trust of the Japanese sailors and officers with his diligence and ‘can do’ attitude, a quality much admired by the strict overlords of Chuuk, then called “Sitiyou Syotou” (Seven Days) in Japanese. Kimiuo would do odd jobs and work the tiny boats that ferried goods and passengers around the lagoon to the many ships that would visit the base. He befriended several Japanese officers and servicemen, learning the language and customs as well many fundamentals of seamanship that would hold him in good stead later on.

History-making moment

The morning of February 17, 1944 is a moment in history that changed Chuuk forever. Even though the Imperial Japanese Navy (IJN) had seen the attack coming and moved its most important warships to the safety of Palau, many vital cargo ships supplying the garrison were left behind in the lagoon. One such vessel was the 160m auxiliary cruiser Aikoku Maru, designed by the famous naval architect Haruki Watsuji, it was a splendid ship. Originally laid down as a luxury liner and cargo vessel in 1938, it had been armed and converted to carry ammunition, troops and weapons by the time war broke out. One of Kimiuo’s closest friends, Chief Petty Officer Uchida, was serving on this vessel and the youth had frequently gone aboard and marvelled at the magnificent ship and its immaculate fittings while it was in port. Aikoku Maru was in almost constant motion between Japan, Truk and the other important bases such as Rabaul in New Guinea, carrying crucial supplies and reinforcements to the beleaguered Japanese forces.

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Above: The Aikoku Maru in full battle livery. She was intended to be a luxury ocean liner, but her career was tragically cut short. Below: A Japanese ship receives a direct hit during the attack on Truk Lagoon. Right: A Dauntless dive bomber pictured with USS Enterprise in the background.


The fame of diving the ghost fleet of Truk Lagoon in the Federated States of Micronesia is attributed to one man – Kimiuo Aisek who watched on as Armageddon visited his homeland in 1944. By Roderick Eime.

In February 1944, she attempted to resupply troops under attack by US forces in the Marshalls, but was forced back to base, arriving in Truk late on the 16th. On board along with tons of ammunition were nearly 1000 soldiers and crew, including CPO Uchida, waiting to be transferred to Rabaul the next day. At 6am the following morning, Kimiuo’s Uncle Naoshy woke the family urgently. “Quickly, everyone get up and go to the cave, the Americans are attacking!”

Red mushroom cloud

The cave was a hideout near their home on Tonoas they had prepared in case of attack and could fit all 18 members of the family. But as the attack intensified, Kimiuo could not suppress his curiosity and he ran out to see the action for himself. Operation Hailstone had begun and would continue non-stop, for another two days. He stood there transfixed, hiding beneath a big hibiscus tree, as the American fighters, dive bombers and torpedo planes swept through in waves, attacking the shore installations, barracks, airfields and ships. The air was thick with smoke from the burning buildings and oil, but he could see to his horror, the shape of the Aikoku Maru sitting low in the water, burning after several direct hits. His thoughts immediately shifted to his friend aboard the stricken vessel and imagined the men furiously fighting the fires and rescuing their injured crewmates. Kimiuo could see the big star on the sides of the planes and he watched them torment and harass the Aikoku Maru with more bombs and torpedoes until suddenly … KABOOM! A shock wave hit him in the chest almost knocking him off his feet and nearly bursting his ears. Then came a rain of metal chunks and splinters while a huge red mushroom cloud appeared over the ship, forever marking its grave in the lagoon. Twenty-nine years later, Kimiuo would revisit the Aikoku Maru and the grave of his friend, lying at more than 50m below the surface. The Aikoku Maru is just one of the 44 known wrecks in and around Truk Lagoon, many that you can dive on when you visit Chuuk and the Blue Lagoon Dive Shop, opened by Kimiuo Aisek in 1973 and operated by his family to this day. Kimiuo Aisek, master diver and man of the sea, passed away in 2001 and was buried on his much-loved home island of Tonoas. The book ‘Witness to War’ by Dianne M. Strong tells the story of Kimiuo Aisek and the wrecks of Truk Lagoon and can be purchased at Blue Lagoon Dive Shop or online. see: www. bluelagoondiveresort.com

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gardening

Garden Wedding s l a i t p u n d n a ature n

Gardening editor Carolyn Ernst says when organising a garden wedding it’s all in the planning, and comes up with the perfect formula for making sure everything in the garden is rosy on the day.

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daughter’s wedding is one of the most important days for any mother and the excitement and planning can go on for months. These days, more and more weddings take place outside of traditional churches, although garden weddings are not new. My mother was married in her mother’s garden as was mine and my daughter was married in my garden. If an outdoor wedding is your choice, there are many venues that can be hired or you might have a family member with a suitable garden for the occasion. Most botanic gardens have venue hire rates as do municipal gardens and of course don’t forget the delightfully casual beach weddings. The planning for each will vary and if deciding on the botanic or municipal garden or the beach wedding you will firstly need to find out what permissions are required and if any fees are due. You also need to be very clear as to what is provided by each venue as this will vary and so will affect your total expenses. Like any event the final outcome is all about the details and this is all in the planning. The first two decisions that need to be made are who and how many will be present and what your budget is. Small weddings are easier and cheaper and these days more people are opting for very small weddings, with the money saved being spent on honeymoon or house payments. These small weddings are a lot easier to plan and

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there are many event organisers that can handle all of the arrangements for you. In Vanuatu we get many cruise boat passengers opting for this and arrive in port with everything arranged, are married and back on the boat that afternoon. It is important that in the beginning the bride and groom decide what sort of wedding they want, what is the budget and what is their ability or that of an alternate family member, of being capable of the planning required for a such an event, especially if a small wedding is not an option. It cannot be stressed enough that the success is all in the planning and some people are good at it and some are not, the secret is getting this sorted out in the beginning. Brides and grooms need to be clear in their expectations of what they want and how much they can afford to spend.

Beware the ‘Godzilla Bride’ Wedding planners are a great invention especially where the bride and groom feel they are unable to organise the event themselves. There are many reasons for this, it might be they do not have the time or it might be they are not good organisers. It might also mean an organiser would shield them from some of the conflicts that unfortunately arise during the planning of these important family events. Nearly all weddings are stressful at some point, so remember if you are not good

PICTURES: Carolyn Ernst and Michael Mclellan.

““ Your Your garden garden is is part part of of you you so so itit is is very very apt apt that that itit be be part part of of this this most most important important day. day. II know know that that while while itit created created aa lot lot of of work work for for me me and and my my staff staff


it also bought so much happiness to my daughter and all of her guests. I was proud that I was able help my daughter make this her perfect day.”

at stress, finding an event planner either in a family member or a paid planner could be a good option for you. The phrase ‘Bridezilla’ is unfortunately too often true. I was lucky, my daughter wanted to follow the family tradition and right from the start her instructions were clear, she wanted a garden wedding and the wedding breakfast was to mirror the large family BBQs we had held throughout her life. Uncle Roy was to be asked to recreate his culinary magic; pig on a spit, nems, somboros, calamari and lots of salads were but a few on her list. This, with great music and a small gathering of family and friends, not more than 70 would make a great event. Her clear focus made for an easy start but there were still many details, we had the venue, but had to arrange to hire everything, fortunately over the years, from other events, I had worked out that it is sometimes cheaper to buy than hire, so white dinner plates, cutlery and glasses were not a problem. Tables, chairs, warming dishes etcetera still needed to be hired and this had to be done early so as to not miss out. The internet is a great place to find white table clothes, sashes and table decorations. One big decision was to decide the actual location in the garden for the ceremony. If you have a large garden like mine there are many choices and sometimes the first choice is not

always the best. We decided to list the choices then work through the pros and cons of each location. We were very happy with our final choice but it had not even been on the first list. The car park made an easy accessible location and it was nice and flat and it didn’t matter if we dug holes to plant posts.

Planting plans

One of the first jobs we did was to plant lots of pots of bougainvillea, to use to add colour to whatever location we decided. The tropics is always colourful but many of our tropical flowers do not last well or at times the only colour is in the leaves. Bougainvillea is easy to propagate and by carefully managing the watering you can also control the flowering. Once you have decided on the main location you need to stand back and take a good critical look at the areas that you will be using. What does it need to maximise its appeal, does it need some more plants, do the existing plants require a prune or fertilise? Remember it will take many months for your efforts to take effect. If you want something a little extra you can grow annuals in pots and these pots nurtured until they can be buried in place for the ultimate area makeover. The weather is an important factor and one should always consider the seasons in your planning. Also in this

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“Once you have decided on the main location you need to stand back and take a good critical look at the areas that you will be using.”

consideration is a plan B for any unexpected weather change. It is no good planning an outside wedding during the wet season and then be upset if your day is spoiled by rain. Marquees are a good backup and cover is essential not only from the sun but also the rain. We decided that by 3pm the sun would not be an issue so no shade was needed for the actual wedding ceremony. However we had a backup plan to move the ceremony under the tents where the wedding breakfast was to be served if needed, a second choice but it would have worked if required. We were lucky and the day could not have been better and the weather was perfect. One factor we had not accounted for was the evening dew. In the cooler parts of the year the dew can be very heavy and while the tents were not needed for the rain, they were definitely important as protection from the night dew, especially for the band and their electrical gear.

Picture perfect

One unusual thing you need to consider when planning for a garden wedding is footwear, especially for the bridal party and the mother of the bride. You need either flat or platform shoes, it can be very difficult walking in spike heels, sinking into the ground at every step, making it uncomfortable for the wearer and in most cases ruining the shoes. The photographer is an important and expensive item on most wedding lists. Consideration of photo shot sites is essential and you need to work with your photographer on what you want. This can be one of the most expensive parts of your wedding so you need to be clear what it will cost and what you will get, fortunately most photographers have a number of package options. I thought my daughter’s

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photographer was expensive but I must say he earned his keep and was busy from the first shots of the groom’s party in the morning, right through the day to the final shots at last light when it became too dark for any more. I would have perhaps liked some more family photos but should have organised that beforehand. The photos are beautiful and a wonderful reminder of a great day. Some people decide that they do not want this expense and with the improvement of personal cameras and phone cameras there are now other options. Consider not only your budget but also the skills and talents of your family and friends. Most of them are more than willing to help and if you offer to pay for their expenses they love being involved. My daughter‘s dress and those of her bridesmaids were made by her maid of honour’s mother for a fraction of the bought cost. They were stunning and the colour matched the bougainvillea perfectly. My mother helped me with the flowers but we had the bouquets made professionally in town. We knew we really did not didn’t need the additional stress. Uncle Roy as usual came up trumps and with the assistance of our staff, did a fantastic job of the food. The bougainvillea did the right thing and added masses of colour to the scene. The hours of planning paid off and the event was enjoyed by all and remembered as a great family get together. Your garden is part of you so it is very apt that it be part of this most important day. I know while it created a lot of work for me and my staff it also bought so much happiness to my daughter and all of her guests. It also created the perfect backdrop to the perfect wedding and I was proud that I was able help my daughter make this her perfect day. Happy Gardening


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Buy-in

PropertyoOptions s r e y u b e m

h t s r fi r o F

Financial adviser Gayle Stapleton sets out the options for first home buyers and comes up some inventive solutions for getting 'into the market'.

Firstly, congratulations to all our pre and post wedding readers. In this article, I would like to present you with a little post wedding thinking, specifically your next major decision – your property purchase. I will cover some of the more fundamental questions including what the process entails, how much you will need as a deposit and an indication of loan repayments to enable a property purchase of AU$450,000. The process – applying for a loan The loan application process can seem quite daunting. There are so many options, interest rates, publicity about property bubbles and difficulties home buyers experience in entering the housing market. I suggest as a first step, make an appointment to visit a mortgage broker to understand the loan process and documentation required. Loan affordability – how much money you can borrow; loan types – fixed rate, variable rate, offset account, split loans.. The list goes on.

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Also consider loan inclusions; the benefits of loan pre-approval; and budgeting – when it is too early to take the leap. How much deposit do I need? There are several lenders that offer loan packages to owneroccupied purchasers with 5% deposit*. In addition to this amount, you will need to allow for government fees and other costs. Let’s get to the numbers. Based on a property purchase in Queensland, Australia and a purchase price of $450,000, you’ll need: Deposit: $27,500 Government fees: $1,200 Other $3,000 Total $31,700 (say $32,000) *Deposit of less than 20% means the inclusion of lenders mortgage insurance, see below. Lenders mortgage insurance Lenders mortgage insurance (LMI) is a once-only premium


What are my repayments? Let’s have a look at your loan repayments. I will base the repayments on a loan term of 30 years, indicative interest rate of 4.5% and weekly repayments. Loan repayments including lenders mortgage insurance = $510 per week. Other thoughts Don’t become disenchanted with your chances of entering the property market. Here are a few alternate thoughts for you to ponder …

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Think longer term I am sure you have your preferred suburbs in mind. If your target suburb is currently out of your reach, consider a 5 – 7-year plan and purchase a property outside your chosen area – potentially a fringe regional area and use this property as your entry point into the property market – as an investment property. Rent out this property and continue renting in your target suburb. As you build equity and savings over say a 5-year period, you could either leverage your equity or sell this property and buy again, moving you closer to your longer term aspirational location.

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Small is sweet Due to our now active lifestyles, small is the new cool in housing. Consider building small, and this could be on a family member’s property. The benefits will be a reduced level of borrowings and the potential of improving the value of the family property – small is sweet and you are helping each-other as part of your property journey.

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Too early for you? Whilst it may be too early for you to enter the property market, it is never too early to commence saving towards your goal. If this is you, please do make contact with me on gayle@ stapletonpacific.com and we’ll create a savings plan dedicated to you and your property aspirations. Summary Three key messages – preparation, goal setting and alternatives. t is never too early to commence your property journey. And as with everything worthwhile, research, planning and remaining open to alternative solutions is your key.

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PICTURE: Alena Brozova / 123RF

payable by you and this provides insurance protection for the lender, referred to as the mortgagee. This form of insurance is required for all loans in excess of 80% of property valuation / property purchase price. The premium can be added to your loan amount and repaid as part of your weekly loan repayment. Maximum loan to valuation ratio to include LMI is 97%, which means in this scenario, a deposit slightly higher than 5% is required.

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At Hideaway Island Resort’s marine sanctuary you will find the world’s first underwater post office. You can post Underwater Post postcards to family and friends as a unique souvenir of your Vanuatu holiday!

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art smart

Set in Stone k c a b e s r o h roes on He

After a trip to Europe Toby Preston checks his photo library for pictures of random statuary and finds a lot of men on horseback, and soon realises equestrian tributes are everywhere.

PICTURES: Toby Preston + 123RF

H

aving just returned from Europe I was reminded of just how much sculpture and statuary surrounds us and how much we take it for granted – from the monumental to the miniature from the everyday to the enormous. But the amount of marble, bronze, timber and stone that’s been shaped into humans and horses, is astonishing. It seems mankind has been creating three dimensional tributes to its cherished emblems of triumph for centuries and there’s often a horse sharing the podium. From friezes to forums full of reproductions of angels, demons and despots no city is without its share of effigies of the good and the great – and the not so great. But Monarchs and military men (Joan of Arc in Paris is a rare female exception) on horseback seem to be the most popular subjects. With the horse having been replaced by horsepower, I wonder how QEII might be commemorated in bronze, waving from the back of a Bentley perhaps? But it’s not just the majestic and equestrian that stands out, there’s sculpture in every detail on every building, gargoyles as rain spouts, cherubs as friezes lurking beneath doorway pediments, full size figures standing on parapets – there’s sculpture and carved embellishment everywhere. In our part of the world we’re lucky to get a tam tam in a hotel foyer or the occasional bust of some colonial panjandrum propped up in front of a government building, or in Australia and New Zealand a bronze Anzac wielding a bayonet in the local memorial park although some of these also feature horses, and even Simpson’s donkey gets a run. In Europe, with its long history of public art there is obviously a much larger stockpile of statuary to draw from, they’ve been celebrating great military victories (or defeats) for centuries and given the egos of those in power, there’s no shortage of subjects to saddle up and plant in the middle of public plazas. Even further back the ancient Greeks and Romans made sure the human and horsey form was set in stone or marble from

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Left: A heavily gilt Joan of Arc in Place des Pyramides, Paris. Above left: King Frederick IV, Amalienborg Palace Copenhagen. Above right: Boy on a rocking horse on the fourth plinth in Trafalgar Square, London. Below: Capital quadriga atop the Brandenburg Gate, Berlin. Below right: Nic Fiddian-Green’s bronze head, Marble Arch, London

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“But “But it’s it’s not not just just the the majestic majestic and and equestrian equestrian that that stands stands out, out, there’s there’s sculpture sculpture in in every every detail detail on on every every building, building, gargoyles gargoyles as as rain rain spouts, spouts, cherubs cherubs


Far left: Peace riding in a chariot, Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, Paris. Left: Quadriga, Palace Square, St Petersburg. Below: far left; Marcus Aurelius, Campidoglio, Rome, circa AD175, centre; El Cid, Burgos, Spain, right; Tsar Nicholas I Isaakievskaya Square, St Petersburg

as friezes lurking beneath doorway pediments, full size figures standing on parapets”

Marcus Aurelius to the Elgin marbles, pinched from the Parthenon, the horse is featured. The tradition of public sculpture does endure though, with modern pieces, often controversially, placed in squares and parks. The difference now is that they are rarely realistic, while Henry Moore might have cast pneumatic, impressionistic bronzes of figures that are vaguely hominal, most people don’t get why they have a hole where their midriff should be or wonder what happened to the other leg. Or why Claes Oldenburg was allowed to put a giant ice cream cone on the roof of a shopping mall in Cologne, Germany. But horses are still alive and well in London where Nic Fiddian-Green’s six-tonne bronze horse head is on display at Marble Arch, it may be disembodied but it’s still beautiful and gee whiz, it actually looks like a horse! But wait there’s more, in an inspired and frivolous move the custodians of London’s Trafalgar Square decided the unadorned fourth plinth which had remained bare (due to insufficient funds) for 150 years but was intended to carry an equestrian statue of William IV should be opened up to a series of ‘rolling commissions’. One of these was turned over for a year to a statue by Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset of boy on a rocking horse, in a wonderfully ironic tribute to the ‘heroism of growing up’. So horses still rule – sometimes. Sadly there are very few modern equivalents in public places any longer, sure there are those cheesy interior decorator sculptures that sometimes adorn side-tables in the overly opulent houses of ‘colourful racing identities’ but they hardly compare with those fifteenhand versions from our glorious horsedrawn past. Horses for courses?

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The People: Behind Your Magazine Behind the scenes, or should that be the scenery, since we’re in the Pacific, we’re making your mag. TIFFANY CARROLL | Editor Tiffany began her career in journalism at GTV 9 in Melbourne before switching to print media with Rural Press newspapers in NSW. She joined the private office of the Premier of Victoria as Press Secretary in the second term of the Kennett Government. Since moving to Vanuatu, Tiffany has written for many clients and has been editing Air Vanuatu’s inflight magazine Island Spirit for seven years. TANYA GREEN | Art Director Tanya has a degree in Graphic Design with experience working in both Australia and overseas, in roles ranging from Commercial Producer for TV, to Designer, Art Director and also owning her own magazine. She now spends time with her two small children and freelancing for clients across the country ... and the Pacific too now.

CAROLYN ERNST | Gardening Editor Carolyn Ernst is a passionate gardener and farmer. Originally from New Zealand, Carolyn has called the Pacific home for well over 25 years. She is a married mother of four children and two grandchildren and operates Eden on the River - an outdoor adventure and garden experience in Port Vila. GAYLE STAPLETON | Finance Writer After numerous chief executive roles with ANZ Bank within Australia and the South Pacific, Gayle established Stapleton Pacific. She works with investors, business owners, expatriates and foreign non-residents to assist them build property investment and wealth portfolios via intelligent, personalised and well-structured lending.

GEORGIE GORDON | Features Editor Georgie’s university studies in communications, journalism and publishing were followed by a successful career in advertising. Georgie now spends much of her time writing about the things she has a passion for, design, food, travel, books, health and beauty. She now resides part time in the region allowing her to pursue her enthusiasm for promoting the pleasures of the Pacific.

PAT INGRAM | Editorial Director Pat Ingram has a long and passionate association with magazines. She edited Australian Cosmopolitan and Harper’s Bazaar before her 10-year stint as Publishing Director for ACP Magazines’ 16 women’s titles including Woman’s Day and The Australian Women’s Weekly. She currently works as a publishing consultant and editorial director for Fairfax Media. She is a resident of Vanuatu and dreams of spending most of the year here.

CHRISTIANA KALUSCHA | Food Editor Christiana studied languages and economics at Cologne University before taking up the life of a sea gypsy sailing the Mediterranean from Spain to Turkey and onwards around the world. Fluent in several languages plus the language of food. Christiana now runs the exclusive boutique B+B, Sarangkita, on the beachfront outside of Port Vila from where she also conducts cooking tours and classes as the creator of Vanuatu Food Safari.

CRAIG OSMENT | Publisher Craig has over thirty years’ experience as an independent publisher of consumer magazines, books and trade titles. Originally a graphic designer, he was art director of Australian Cosmopolitan, The Bulletin and POL magazines. Now a Vanuatu resident he is also the publisher of Island Spirit the Air Vanuatu in-flight magazine.

OLIVIA WAUGH | Fashion + Style Editor Olivia Waugh is a highly regarded fashion stylist with a career in both retail and editorial. She has been Fashion Editor for the top-selling Australian weekly Woman’s Day and Fashion Director of the glossy monthly SHOP TIL YOU DROP. She is currently freelancing for a variety of Australia’s top magazines and manufacturers and island-hopping

REBECCA MURPHY | Advertising Director Rebecca is another exile from New Zealand but has spent the past 17 years travelling extensively through Europe and the Pacific so thoroughly acclimatised to our region. She lived in PNG before coming to Vanuatu and is a media junkie having worked in print and radio for ten years. She loves anything to do with fashion, style and travel and claims to be an ‘all round exceptional person’ and we have to agree.

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MILTON ROSS

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Hotel and Casino located in Aiwo District, just near the Civic Centre in Nauru. A family owned and operated hotel. Rates for long and short term stays are available, enjoy a self contained or double and single rooms available. Cafe/Restaurant and Hardware Store is located in Menning District, enjoy hot breakfast and freshly brewed coffee daily or browse the store, everything you need from groceries and gardening supplies to furnishing your home.

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For more information contact: Phone: +(674) 558 8644 | Email: odnaiwo@yahoo.com


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Par Avion

Retail Repetition The ubiquity of international brands brings on a case of emporium ennui for Toby Preston during his most recent international search for souvenirs.

W

hile in Stockholm recently absorbing a bit of Baltic buzz a local pointed out the city’s main retail drag, a long street called Drottninggatan (or Queen Street) which, the joke goes, takes a woman 11 hours to traverse but a man only 11 minutes. Well, I’m an exception to the male stereotype when it comes to shopping – I love it! I find wandering around new places window shopping or browsing for novel things is a great way to get in some rare exercise as well restock my souvenir collection which is mostly shoes and clothes which, whenever I wear them remind me of places I’ve been. Unfortunately this is getting more and more difficult, because mostly anything I’m likely to buy while travelling is exactly the same as I can get back home. It starts at the airport where The Heinemann Hegemony begins. You know the place – the omnipresent duty free retailer from Germany which infests airports from Volgograd to Vienna to Vientiane and Vilnius (the company boasts a concession presence at 78 airports in 28 countries) so that the choice of goods is almost identical anywhere you’re likely to land or endure a transit stop. Even worse now though is the transit lounge nature of high street shopping in any major city. We’re already used to the brand ubiquity of high end labels, in both genuine and fake form – you’ll as likely find an Armani T-shirt on a road labourer in Lebanon as easily as on a lounge lizard in Lugarno, not to mention one of Louis’s handbags slung over the shoulder of a society matron or a Somalian street vendor from Melbourne to Milan. I’m not in the market for that sort of stuff anyway. I’m looking for something unique and witty with a sale sticker on it so that I can rejoice in its difference when I get home. That’s getting to be almost impossible when every city has whole blocks taken up with H&M emporia, multi-level Zara and Uniqlo stores along with Topshop and Gap, international shopping has become a sort of live version of Google Streetview. Indeed in the Internet age when anything from anywhere can be delivered to your door you’d wonder why bricks and mortar shops are still being built. I’ll tell you why – because the value of rag trade brands is BIG business. The world’s most valuable label is Nike at around US$24 billion, followed by those cunning Swedes, H&M (which also owns Weekday and COS) that is worth US$15 billion, the main shareholder, Stefan Persson is Sweden’s richest man with a net worth north of US$28 billion. The first of the big name luxury labels on the list is Hermes at US$7 billion. So follow the dollars, the department stores do. A wander around David Jones in Sydney, Kircaldie & Stains in Wellington or Selfridges in London will reveal the same approach to retailing – a lot of branded boutiques assembled under a single roof for those who can’t

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be bothered finding the same stuff in individual shops outside the door. The same bromidic approach has infected even the traditional ‘souvenir’ market. Anywhere a tourist is likely be carrying a wallet there will be the inevitable local souvenir sales outlet, among the key rings and tea towels the only thing that changes from place to place are the flag motifs and the indigenous wildlife – Scandinavia for instance has managed to knit or weave a reindeer into everything from socks and jocks to jumpers while even the Russians have succumbed to making their traditional stacking dolls in the livery of American football teams – fancy a Dallas Cowboys doll with players of descending brain size stacked inside? There’s a shameless and kitschy pitch to anyone with a spare Krona or Ruble at every port or airport but hey, everybody’s grandkids or mother wants a keepsake of the country. So from Miele to Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors to Max Factor, electricals to cosmetics, there is now less and less that is unique to any particular place unless you get into the back lanes to find something artisanal being created in a small low-rent shopfront that hasn’t been displaced by those real estate anchor tenants that occupy the expensive retail precincts. They’re there if you look, the Greek village leather maker on Santorini to a knife maker in a converted timber warehouse in Bergen. You just need to get off the beaten track and up a cobbled alley to search out the good stuff. But unless you want knitwear with reindeer and snowflake motifs don’t expect to find any clothing that stands out from the intercontinental crowd. It’s a similar story with foodstuffs and eating, the tapas, smorgasbord, burger, pizza and Starbucks coffee are as pervasive as Ikea but if quarantine laws allow you could always take home a can of reindeer or bear meat if that tantalises your taste buds, and be pretty sure your South Pacific neighbour won’t already have a tin in the pantry. But there’s no one to blame but ourselves now that travel is so egalitarian and a plane ticket to the other side of the world costs about as much as a new sofa, tourist hordes are a given anywhere there’s something to see. It occurred to me in St Petersburg that one of those Romanovs (the modestly named, Peter the Great) spent 21 years at war with Sweden to wrest this port city location from them for security and trade reasons only to now be invaded by eight cruise ships a day. These disgorge day trippers into the Winter Palace, the Nevsky Prospect and the Hermitage where, when the crowds part you’ll likely get Rembrandt fatigue after an hour or two of shuffling behind a guide with a disc with your coach number and a microphone. But having said that travel, in spite of some drawbacks, sure beats staying at home all year.


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