Islandliving pacifi fromcthe editor
SPRING 2016 | ISSUE 17
r e v o c s i D c
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ext issue, we will be celebrating four years of Pacific Island Living. We started this magazine for Pacific people – to find, review and recommend things to see and do, and ultimately, buy. We are proudly an aspirational magazine, we want our readers to sit back and indulge just as much as we want to tell the world how great the Pacific really is. From Georgie Gordon’s health and beauty columns, to Carolyn Ernst’s gardening tips, we hope you agree Pacific Island Living has something for everyone. In four years our market has grown from Vanuatu and Nauru Airlines to cover most of the Pacific. We’re particularly proud of our market share in Fiji and the Solomon Islands as well as our distribution in Australia through Qantas Club lounges. As I write this column I’m in Fiji, having just flown in from Vanuatu. Next month it will be Nauru then the Sollies. Pacific Island Living truly is a Pacific magazine and we’re so pleased you have enjoyed it and helped its growth over the last four years. Please do keep in touch via our website, Facebook page, Instagram or Twitter. Happy reading. Tiffany Carroll
Marshall
ISLAND MYSTERY
Fashion Flash WEDDING STYLE
Resort Report
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and Instagram at instagram.com/pacisliving or read this and all our magazines online at www.pacific-island-living. com Cover images - Fiji Island Living courtesy Adrenalin Fiji; Solomon Island Living, by David Kirkland; Nauru Airlines Cover courtesy Nautilus Resort, Kosrae; Vanuatu cover courtesy Pavol Stranák.
NEWS+VIEWS RESORTS+REAL ESTATE Copyright: All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu Tourism Office or Pacific Island Living.
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Welcome... o m o r wi
COVER AND PHOTO THIS PAGE: Courtesy Pohnpei Surf Club
Ekama
t is my pleasure to welcome you aboard this Nauru Airlines flight and indeed, to welcome you to the Central Pacific. With our increased fleet size, the airline has recently set up an Engineering Business Unit at Brisbane Airport, securing a hangar at which all our aircraft will be serviced. This also provides prospective hangar capacity and a new line maintenance facility for other operators in the region. We were pleased to be able to mount a number of charter flights in May and June to deliver participants from several island countries to the ever popular Pacific Arts Festival, held in Guam this year. We are the carrier of the Central Pacific and proud to offer these services. The team at Nauru Airlines is committed to support business and tourism growth in the Central Pacific region and we’ve been pleased to work with many of you to achieve this. For now, please enjoy our service. Geoff Bowmaker, CEO.
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Nauru t n a s a ple
island
There are not too many people who can claim to drive around an entire country in less than 30 minutes. Here we offer some useful information about getting around this pleasant Pacific island. IfIf you’re you’re lucky lucky to to be be in in Nauru Nauru during during National National Day Day celebrations, celebrations, you’ll you’ll get get to to see see all all the the culture culture and and tradition tradition of of the the island island
Nauru is situated in the middle of the vast Pacific Ocean, 60 kilometres to the south of the equator, at latitude 0°55’S and longitude 166°55’E. Six kilometres in length and four kilometres in width, its total area is 21.1 square kilometres, or 5,263 acres. Its nearest neighbour is Banaba (also known as Ocean Island) in the Republic of Kiribati, 330 kilometres to the east. The coast of Papua New Guinea lies 2,150 kilometres to the south-west, Melbourne 4,705 kilometres to the south-west, Honolulu 4,457 kilometres to the north-west, Tokyo 4,797 kilometres to the north-west, Guam 2,827 kilometres to the north-west and Hong Kong 6,189 kilometres to the northwest, while Suva lies 2,324 kilometres to the south-east and Auckland 4,132 kilometres to the south. The island is girdled with a 200 metres wide coral reef exposed at low tide. The coastal belt along the 19 kilometres circumference of the island and the small area surrounding the inland lagoon of Buada are most picturesque and fertile. Cultivation is limited to these areas where coconut palms and pandanus grow in abundance. Bananas and some vegetables are also produced in these areas. The top soil
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throughout Nauru is thin and porous, varying between 5cm and 30cm. Beyond the coastal belt, the coral cliffs rise to heights up to 70 metres above sea level to form a vast plateau, generally referred to as “The Topside”. The area contains the only major land based economic resource of Nauru, the phosphate deposits, which cover nearly four-fifths of the country’s total land area. The phosphate is mined by open-cut method from amongst the tall coral limestone boulders, known as the pinnacles. The deposits vary in depth from eight to twenty-five metres, but they do not run deeper than sea level.
Phosphate rock
In 1900 Sir Albert Ellis, an Australian prospector, was intrigued when he came across a large block of rock used as a door stop. It was originally believed to be petrified wood, known to have come from “Pleasant Island” (Nauru). Intrigued, Sir Albert examined the piece scientifically and believed it was high quality phosphate. It was then taken to London where it was confirmed to be phosphate rock which led to the establishment of the phosphate mining industry in Nauru in 1907.
PICTURES: Jase, Nauru Tourism Office.
General information
which are the frigate bird (which features in the official emblem of the Republic), the white and black noddies, and the nightingale reed warbler known as the Nauruan canary whose delightful songs form the daily wake up call for Radio Nauru. Nauru has no indigenous animals.
People
Nauruans appear to be racially closer to the Micronesians. The Nauruan language has adopted the Roman script but has little in common with other Pacific languages. Nauruans belong to twelve distinct tribes: 1 Deiboe – black fish 7 Emea – crab 2 Eamwidara – dragon fly 8 Eaoru – crab 3 Eamwidumwit – dragon fly 9 Irutsi – torch-stump 4 Eamwit – eel 10 Iruwa – stranger 5 Eano – fish 11 Iwi – louse 6 Emangum – flotsom & jetsam 12 Ranibok – water drinker The 12 points of the star on the Republic’s national flag represent these 12 matrilineal tribes but sadly the Iwi and Irutsi tribes are now extinct.
Angam
and meet the friendly locals too.
There are three principal theories about the origin of Nauruan phosphate. According to one theory, during the periods of submergence when the corals were building upwards over the volcanic platform, organic matter got entrapped amongst the limestone pinnacles and formed phosphate pellets. Subsequently, due to changes in the sea levels and tectonic uplifts, the island was raised above the sea level. According to a second theory, the phosphate is of igneous origin. The third theory suggests bird droppings formed guano over a long period of time. In the light of evidence from marine organic materials available at Topside, it would appear the theory of marine origin has greater credibility than others. Whatever the origin, the Nauru rock is the purest in the world at 78% to 84% purity.
Flora & fauna
There are now about 200 species of flora, some 30 of which are indigenous including the coconut, banyan and almond trees, but unfortunately about 50 indigenous species appear to have become extinct due to phosphate mining. The fauna include about a dozen species of birds, the most important of
(means “coming home”) On the 26th October 1932 the population touched 1,500 for the first time after the heavy toll influenza took soon after the First World War. Since then this day is celebrated as Angam Day. During the Second World War in June and July 1943, 1201 Nauruans were deported to the island of Truk in Micronesia. When the war ended in 1945 there were only 591 Nauruans on the island. Of the 1,201 Nauruans sent to Truk, 464 died of starvation, disease and bombing; the 737 survivors returned to Nauru on 31st January, 1946. The population again touched the 1,500 mark on 31st March 1949. Nauru now has a population density of 381 per square kilometre.
Religion
The first Christian Missionaries arrived in Nauru from Kiribati in 1887. After the subsequent visits of missionaries, schools were established and parts of the Holy Bible were translated into Nauruan. It was left to the American-educated late head chief Timothy Detudamo and P.H. Delaporte to help produce a complete Nauruan Bible. The spread of Christianity made Nauruans more enlightened spiritually, but sadly, their traditions and cultural moorings were quickly lost.
Constitution & parliament
The Constitution of Nauru declaring the country as a sovereign Republic was adopted by the people of Nauru in the Constitutional conventional on 29th January, 1968. The country became a sovereign Republic of 31st January, 1968. The Constitution provides for the Parliament to make laws for peace, order and good government of Nauru. The first Parliament came into existence on 31st January, 1968, under the name of Legislative Assembly of Nauru.
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Fishing around Nauru is not only easy, it’s a national pasttime. Call Capelle & Partner for charters.
It started functioning under the name of Parliament from 17th May,1968, now called Constitution Day. The Parliament of Nauru consists of 18 Members elected from eight constituencies for three-year terms from the date of the first sitting of Parliament. Members of Parliament are directly elected by the people of Nauru.
Banking
Nauru uses the Australian dollar (AUD) as its currency. Australian notes and coins are the only cash able to be used on the island, as no facility exists for the exchange of foreign currency notes or travellers cheques to/from AUD. Major international cards like MasterCard and Visa are not able to be used by visitors to Nauru for large-value purchases such as accommodation, rental cars and even shopping. Cash is widely used for such transactions, although internet banking can be used to make payments into bank accounts in Nauru or Australia to pay for these products and services. The Bendigo Bank Agency is the only bank on Nauru, with a single presence at Civic Centre in Aiwo. ATMs are located at: Civic Centre (3) operating 24 X 7; Capelle Store (Ewa) Monday to Saturday during store hours; Menen Hotel. While there are no exchange control restrictions between Nauru and Australia, it is necessary to declare $A10,000 or more in AUD or its equivalent in foreign currency cash being brought into Nauru. It is an offence to take more than AUD 2,500 or its equivalent out of Nauru without proper authority from the Revenue Office, and the completion of a Border Currency Report form is required if AUD10,000 or more is being taken out.
Public holidays
1st January – New Year’s Day 31st January – Independence Day March/April – Good Friday, Easter Monday & Easter Tuesday 17th May – Constitution Day
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1st July – Nauru Phosphate Corporation (NPC) Handover Day (½ day) 26th October – Angam Day 25th December – Christmas Day 26th December – Boxing Day
Districts
Nauru has 14 districts, with no capital nor main town. If turning left from the airport (facing the runway), the districts are: Yaren - home to the government offices and Parliament House. Menen - Menen Hotel, The Reef Tavern, government departments and churches. Capital Cafe – only place to get a cappuccino on the island. Anibare Bay - Swimming beach, main wharf Ijuw - Local housing and small stores Anabar - WW2 Japanese bunkers, Frigate bird cages (taboo for women - you must seek permission before visiting) Anetan - Petrol station, local housing & swimming beach Ewa - Capelle & Partner general store, cafe, rental apartments. Public toilets. Baitsi, Uaboe, Nibok - local housing, Jules on the Deck restaurant, bar and nightclub. Surf beach. Denig - Moon River Chinese Restaurant Aiwo - Power station, wharf, phosphate factory, Odn Hotel, Civic Centre, Supermarket, Post Office, Cenpac internet cafe, Digicel & local restaurants, Bendigo Bank. Buada - inland lagoon and local housing Boe - airport, Reynaldo’s Chinese restaurant
Annual festivities
31st January – Independence Day Sports Carnival; Island beautification; wrestling 25th March – Nauru Congregational Church Youth Choral Competition 17th May – Women’s Fellowship Arts & Craft Exhibition. Constitution Day Sports Carnival August – Nauru Arts Festival (2nd Saturday)
Kiribati s d n a l s i e r u t n e v ad From the air, Kiribati is simply stunning. On the ground, friendly people, strong culture and pristine water awaits you. May to December is the best time of year to island hop around Kiribati.
A welcome to Kiribati
The island nation of Kiribati, comprising 33 atolls, straddles the equator, stretching 3235 kilometres across the Pacific Ocean. With traditions and culture thriving and visitors regarded as a curiosity, it is the Pacific of yesteryear. South Tarawa is the urban hub of the nation with a large concentration of the population crammed into rows of houses squeezed together. Land is scarce here, the lagoon suffering under the weight of people, but this is where government and commercial activity is focused, where the hustle and bustle of Kiribati prevails. Venture away from south Tarawa and you escape this commotion, finding the unspoilt tranquillity of north Tarawa. To visit only south Tarawa is to miss the gentler side of Kiribati, the Kiribati where time flows with the moon and tides. Located on Abatao in north Tarawa, our family homestay accommodation is delightful. The road halts abruptly at a passageway between the ocean and lagoon. A prompting whistle and a motorised canoe emerges from across the water to ferry us to the other side. During the new moon, the crossing is magical as phosphorescence lights a trail behind us, swirling round our feet in the water; a step in the wet sand stirs a shower of phosphorescent dust. Our guesthouse looks over the lagoon. A raised floor, roof of pandanus leaves and a mattress. Woven palm shutters keep out the rain, lagoon breeze natural air conditioning! Home for a while. Privacy is pretty much non-existent but it all adds to the Kiribati charm. It is quite normal to wake up, see several pairs of eyes staring back from beyond our feet, hear a shy ‘Mauri’ and
then children running away giggling! The bathroom is shared and the toilet has built in entertainment as hermit crabs scurry around our feet. Meals are local food; pancakes made with ‘toddy’ served with coconut syrup; fish, rice, breadfruit, pandanus and coconut. Sunset over the lagoon is spectacular with a ball of fire resting on the horizon, the sky blazing with shades of orange, red, pink, purple. Serenity – apart from the lapping of the water on the lagoon edge and the distant crashing of waves on the ocean side. A receding evening tide brings fishermen into the lagoon, wading the shallows with the a lamp, trailing a fishing net between them or slowly drifting in a canoe catch the next meal. In the dark of the night, tiny lights shine out in the middle of the lagoon. Beyond the homestay, the village and North Tarawa stretch out. Traditional houses cluster together, a school, church, and a small shop, little else. Children line the street as we pass, quietly whispering or boldly shouting ‘I-Matang’ (foreigner) before running away. Others crowd round in friendly curiosity, following until we reach the edge of the village or they lose interest. Beyond the village houses are sparsely spread along the track. I-Kiribati sit talking or carrying out daily chores; men climb trees for toddy; women sit weaving mats ; children play, patiently practising skills passed down to them. There is no need here for TV or fancy toys - the children seemed content with what their imagination and natural environment provide. Calm and tranquillity reign. by Vanessa Nuttall.
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Welcome aboard
T
hank you for flying Nauru Airlines. Today you are flying on one of Nauru Airline’s Boeing 737-300 aircraft. Our Captain and crew will ensure your flight is as memorable and enjoyable as possible. We ask you to take time to read over the safety information then sit back, relax and enjoy our renowned inflight service. Safety First – taxi, take-off and landing. Seat belts must be fastened during take-off, taxi, landing and whenever the seat belt sign is illuminated. We advise you to have it comfortably fastened at all other times in case of unexpected turbulence. Hand luggage must be stored in the overhead lockers or under the seat in front of you. If you are seated in an emergency exit row, all hand luggage must be stored in the overhead compartments. Your seat back must be upright and the tray table fastened during take-off and landing. Safety First – during flight. Sleeping on the aircraft floor is not permitted. Please read the Safety Instruction card in your seat pocket noting the emergency exits and the location of life jackets. Please watch the safety demonstration prior to take-off. Electronic equipment. Laptop computers, iPods, DVD players and other electronic equipment may only be used
once the aircraft has reached cruising altitude – the cabin crew will advise. They must be switched off prior to descent. Mobile telephones can only be operated if “Flight Mode” was selected prior to boarding the aircraft. FM radio digital receivers cannot be used on board at any time during the flight. Travelling with children and infants. Nauru Airlines crew is only too happy to assist during the flight. We can re-heat bottles or assist if your baby or toddler develops ear pain. Children’s meals need to be requested at the time of booking. Your flight to or from the Central Pacific today is not long haul, however we do recommend you drink plenty of water (it will be offered throughout your flight) and limit your alcohol, tea and coffee intake. Take time to walk around the cabin when possible or exercise while seated by flexing and rotating your ankles every hour to aid circulation. This is a non-smoking flight. Smoking is strictly prohibited on board. The aircraft toilets are fitted with smoke detecting devices.
Aircraft type and manufacturer Length Wing span Cruising speed Seating capacity Cargo capacity Range
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Boeing 737-300 33.40 metres 28.88 metres 0.74 mach 130 23.3 cubic metres 4,204 kilometres
PICTURES: Nautlus Resort Kosrae and Tiffany Carroll.
BOEING 737-300
Advice on your comfort s s e n t fi t h g infli
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auru Airlines cares about your comfort and safety while travelling. While flying, passengers can be seated and inactive for long periods of time and the environment cam be low in humidity and pressurised up to an altitude of 2440 metres above sea level. Moving rapidly across many time zones can disrupt a person’s ‘body clock”. To most passengers, these factors do not pose a health of safety threat, however the following guidelines will improve your level of comfort, both during and after a flight. • Wear loose, comfortable clothing. • Drink plenty of water. • Don’t drink excessive amounts of tea, coffee or alcohol. (These drinks act as diuretics, increasing dehydration).
inflight workout
Using these exercises can provide a safe way to move and stretch various muscle groups that may stiffen as a result of sitting for long periods. The body’s blood circulation may be increased and the muscles massaged by these techniques. For best results these exercises should be done for around three of four minutes every hour. An occasional walk around the aisle will also help. If you feel pain or discomfort and cannot exercise with ease, you should not continue these exercises.
foot pumps (Foot motion in 3 stages)
• Begin with both heels flat on the floor then point toes upward as high as possible. • Place both feet flat to the floor. • Raise your heels high, keeping balls of the feet on the floor. • Repeat the three foot pump stages continuously and at 30 second intervals.
ankle circles
• Raise your feet. Draw a circle with your toes, move one foot clockwise and the other counter clockwise. • Reverse feet direction. • Circle feet in each direction for approx 15 seconds. • Repeat as often as required.
knee lifts
• Lift your leg with the knee bent while tensing your thigh muscle. • Change legs and repeat 20-30 times for each leg.
neck roll
• Relax your shoulders and drop your ear to the shoulder and roll your neck gently forward and backwards. • Hold both positions for approx five seconds. • Do this five times.
knee to chest
• Lean slightly forward. • Place hands around the left knee and bring into your chest. • Hold this position for 15 seconds. • Lower knee slowly while still holding • Repeat 10 times, alternating legs.
forward flex
• Place feet on the floor and gently bend forward while holding stomach in. • Walk your hands down your legs to the ankles. • Stay in this position for 15 seconds then sit back up slowly.
shoulder roll
• Roll your shoulders upward, backward, downward then forwards in a gentle circular motion.
how to minimise the effects of jet lag Travelling to a different time zone without giving the body a chance to adjust to new night-day cycles causes jet lag. The more time zones you cross during your flight, the more your body clock is disturbed. As a general rule, it takes approximately one day per time zone crossed for the body to adjust. The common symptoms of jet lag are sleeplessness, tiredness and loss of appetite or appetite at odd hours. To minimise the effects of jet lag: • Have a good night’s rest before your flight • Give yourself a day or two to adjust to the new time zone after arrival if possible. • Minimise the flight time by flying direct when possible – this allows you to relax more upon arrival. • Try light exercise, a brisk walk, or reading if you find sleeping difficult after arrival at your destination.
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Pacific History
t e e l F t s o h G
Museum Beneath the Waves W
ith so many books and photographs published on the wrecks of Truk Lagoon, it’s hard to tell them apart, but acclaimed underwater photographer, Andrew Marriott, applies his unique style to this new volume, set for publication later this year. Our diving journo, Roderick Eime, caught up with Andrew and spoke to him about the book. RE: Andrew, great news to hear about your forthcoming book. With so many books already in print, how are you going to make yours stand out? AM: There are already several excellent dive guides for the wrecks, but we wanted something different that really told the stories of the ships. This book tells these amazing stories in a way that captures a sense of the drama and action these ships and crews experienced. We compliment these stories with an incredible array of images including: historic pictures of the ships, exclusive images of artifacts in the Kimiuo Aisek Memorial Museum and amazing images of the wrecks today. RE: I understand you’ve worked very closely with the Blue Lagoon Resort and the Kimiuo Aisek Memorial Museum on this project? AM: The resort, dive shop and museum make the entire project possible. They have provided incredible support over my many recent trips to Chuuk both above and below the water. I have very specific needs when I’m shooting and they always work with me. Also the museum is providing the exclusive rights to photograph and publish pictures of their incredible array of historic artifacts in this book. These artifacts are a key part of telling the story of these ships. RE: Even with the comparatively small amount of diving I have done here, it’s clear you need to spend a lot of time
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Eeerie and slightly sinister images of the Ghost Fleet from beneath the truk Lagoon, just some of the 12,000 Andrew Marriot has shot. Above: The Heian Maru. Above right: Shinoku Maru. Below: Nippo Maru. Below right: Spooky! just some of the human remains among this underwater fleet.
underwater. How long have you spent underwater working on getting these images and how many pictures have you taken?
A new book on Truk Lagoon wrecks traces the lives and deaths of the men aboard the famous ‘ghost fleet’. The author is a veteran diver and has visited over 1000 dive sites around the world but FSM’s Shinolu Maru is his favourite.
AM: By the time the book is completed I will have done 150 dives on just the wrecks that are focused on in the book. That means somewhere around an entire week will have been spent underwater shooting for this book! On some dives I am doing very time intensive long exposure shots on tripods, so I only end up with two or three pictures at the end of a dive. Other times the pictures come fast and furious and I’ll end up with fifty good images. I will have probably shot 12,000 pictures for this book and unfortunately I won’t be able to publish them all. RE: With so many wrecks in Truk Lagoon, do you have a favourite and were there any special moments you can share? AM: The Shinkoku Maru is one of my all-time favourite dive sites in the world, and I’ve been to well over a thousand sites by this point. It is a perfect mix of an amazing reef and a world class wreck. And yes, there was a definite ‘moment’ during this project which helped me decide on how to approach the book. I had one dive early on in the project where I was deep inside one of the wrecks and suddenly found myself surrounded by lots of human bones. I don’t want to get too spooky, but I could feel a certain something down there. It wasn’t scary or threatening, instead a kind of plea. These men had died in such a traumatic fashion, it was as if I could sense they wanted their story to be told. It was a request I could not refuse. RE: Thank you Andrew. We all look forward to seeing your new book. About Andrew Marriott From a background in finance, Marriott traded that for the ocean and has been diving for 16 years, taking a camera with him since his first dive. A PADI certified instructor, he has actively taught for a number of years. During that time his most popular class was underwater photography and he decided to stop teaching and focus on photography full time. Besides his images and magazine work, he is launching a series of expeditions to interesting wrecks that divers can join. And there are two other books in the pipeline.
You can find Andrew on Facebook at ‘Fata Morgana by Andrew Marriott’ and at the website: www.fata-morgana.net
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Marshall Islands mation infor
T
he Marshall Islands are located just north of the equator half way between northern Australia and Hawaii. The population is just over 60,000. The capital and main port of entry is Majuro. • Time zone: GMT +12 hrs • Language: Marshallese and English. • Currency: USD • Health: Hospitals are located on Majuro and Ebeye. Health clinics are located on most other islands • Electricity: 110 volts 60
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cycles. US style plugs are used. • Fishing: Deep sea game fishing around Majuro and Arno islands • Diving: Live-aboard and land based, there are many pristine reef and wreck sites. • Surfing: Live-aboard surfing safaris to some of the most remote breathtaking breaks on earth. • Cruising: There are some great waters for ocean sailing and yachts are welcome. • Accommodation: Majuro
offers a range from hotels to small family guest houses and island retreats. • Bikendrik Island Hideaway is an upmarket resort with a choice of either a romantic detached bungalow at the water’s edge, or a beautiful room with ensuite in the original plantation-style house. • Hotel Robert Reimers is family owned and operated with a traditional Marshallese flavour. All rooms are equipped with modern amenities • The Marshall Islands
Resort Hotel, offers the best in convenience and comfort. Centrally located on a beautiful tropical lagoon, the resort features complete hotel accommodations and guest services. • Nauru Airlines flies weekly from Brisbane to Majuro via Nauru. • Australian and New Zealand passport holders require a valid passport (six months) and confirmed return or onward travel bookings to enter the Marshall Islands for stays up to 30 days. •
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