Islandliving solomon from the editor
AUTUMN 2017 | ISSUE 19
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ext issue, we will be celebrating four years of Pacific Island Living. We started this magazine for Pacific people – to find, review and recommend things to see and do, and ultimately, buy. We are proudly an aspirational magazine, we want our readers to sit back and indulge just as much as we want to tell the world how great the Pacific really is. From Georgie Gordon’s health and beauty columns, to Carolyn Ernst’s gardening tips, we hope you agree Pacific Island Living has something for everyone. In four years our market has grown from Vanuatu and Nauru Airlines to cover most of the Pacific. We’re particularly proud of our market share in Fiji and the Solomon Islands as well as our distribution in Australia through Qantas Club lounges. As I write this column I’m in Fiji, having just flown in from Vanuatu. Next month it will be Nauru then the Sollies. Pacific Island Living truly is a Pacific magazine and we’re so pleased you have enjoyed it and helped its growth over the last four years. Please do keep in touch via our website, Facebook page, Instagram or Twitter. Happy reading. Tiffany Carroll
Dive Delight SOLOMONS TIME
Dining Guide IN AND AROUND HONIARA
Pacific Pulse
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and Instagram at instagram.com/pacisliving or read this and all our magazines online at www.pacific-island-living. com Cover images - Fiji Island Living courtesy Adrenalin Fiji; Solomon Island Living, by David Kirkland; Nauru Airlines Cover courtesy Nautilus Resort, Kosrae; Vanuatu cover courtesy Pavol Stranák.
NEWS+VIEWS RESORTS+REAL ESTATE
Copyright: All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu Tourism Office or Pacific Island Living.
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islandliving | 1 pacific
islandliving | 1 paciďŹ c
elcome to the Solomon Islands – the hapi isles. With so much to see and do, the Solomons offers something for everyone. Chances are, you’ll be exploring many of our fantastic islands without interference from other tourists, but not for much longer as our arrival numbers continue to climb. We think the Solomons has the best diving in the Pacific,
you can read about it in this issue of Solomon Island Living. We also have a unique and culturally diverse populace and certainly plenty of paths less travelled. So what are you waiting for? Get out and explore these magical islands and please do keep in touch with us by posting your holiday pictures on our facebook and Instagram pages. Search for Pacific Island Living and you’ll join over 85,000 other followers or find us at @pacisliving
Happy travels
COVER PICTURE: and THIS PAGE: SIVB.
Welcome m Welka islandlivingSolomons | 1
island Islandescape Hop
Gaga fornGizo d, enjoy
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Gizo and the Western province of Solomon Islands is open for business. With pristine water, hundreds of islands and some of the most
H
oniara’s domestic airport is an airless, dark place and there’s a pungent odour in the air. I’m on my way to Gizo in Solomon Islands and it seems so is every other person in Honiara today. Finally I get my boarding pass, am offered no further instruction so follow the crowd. The heat is oppressive, the airport is dusty and there is nowhere to sit. It’s safe to say I’m not in a great mood. Honiara can be hard work but I push on with the promise I’m about to see one of the most spectacular sights on earth. On board Solomon Airlines’ comfortable Dash-8 aircraft we leave Honiara behind. Within minutes the view out my window is indeed spectacular as we fly towards the Western Province of Solomon Islands. The water is shallow and clear with islands dotted everywhere and for a minute I think I am in the Maldives rather than the Pacific. A quick stop in Munda and we’re on final approach to Gizo. The water – oh the water – it’s the thing of fairy tales, movie scenes and billboards promoting exotic destinations one could only dream of visiting. We land and taxi to the little airport
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terminal but there’s no one here. I have no luggage but wait around for the other passengers to collect theirs in the hope I can follow one of them to town as there is no signage, no waiting transport and I have no idea what to do next. Eventually the small crowd heads down a path towards a jetty and board the waiting banana boat. I follow and hope I’m not invading a private charter. The boat captain smiles and offers his hand to help me aboard. Okay, I think, this must be what I’m supposed to do. I’m the only tourist and my fellow passengers look at me with curiosity. Wherever I am, wherever I’m going I’m surrounded by beauty so I smile back and think there are worse places to be lost. A few minutes later we arrive at another island – turns out this one is actually Gizo. A beautiful local woman approaches me and offers to help with my backpack. I’m not sure of her intentions for it but again she seems friendly. “It’s okay – we’re expecting you,” she says. The port area of Gizo is buzzing and we cross the road to the Gizo Hotel. There is absolutely no one in a hurry here,
affordable resorts in the Pacific, such as Saeragi at $AUD30 a night (above right), what are you waiting for?
despite there being a hive of activity. There are three girls behind the counter checking me in yet none of them say a word to me. Finally in my room I step out on to the balcony and am greeted by the happy sight of the street below. There’s a market selling fruit and veg, a live band performing on a timber stage and people laughing everywhere. Finally, I see the happy isles. Christina, my backpack carrier turns out to be the manager of the hotel and would become my godsend for my two-day stay in Gizo. She arranges transport for me to see as much of Western Province as possible and tells me not to worry, everything will be fine. My boat driver is tall and handsome. He’s excited to be my guide and keen to get underway. Less than 10 metres from shore we’re scooting over coral gardens in iridescent water. And it continues. For ages. Coral and fish and glorious clear water. This is the stuff you see in brochures but the reality often disappoints. Here off the coast of Gizo it’s the opposite there are no brochures so I wonder
if there’s no expectation am I’m simply pleasantly surprised? But no, it is more than that. I wish I could describe how truly beautiful this place is. Soon enough we arrive at Orevea, a Solomon islanderoperated guesthouse. Patson the owner greets me and his proud smile tells me he’s a man who’s worked hard to build his little resort. Two semi-over water guesthouses are available to rent here. They are simple and pretty. The main house has two rooms, a breezy sitting room/family bedroom and a separate master bedroom. The deck has stunning 180-degree views of the lagoon and, Patson tells me, most afternoons resident dugong swim close to shore. The second guesthouse, accessible by an elevated timber walk way is the honeymoon suite. Raised high with even more commanding water views, this one has an outdoor shower, which makes Patson laugh. I think a visitor somewhere along the line has told him this would be popular and he doesn’t really understand why. To him, it’s probably nothing special. Patson cooks meals for his guests, but if you prefer you can
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Sanbis Resort is in a category of its own in Gizo. The long jetty with gorgeous open air bar/restaurant at the end doubles as reception.
self cater, the all-inclusive price is $SBD1200 ($AUD185) per person, per night. Next we’re off to Saeragi Beach, it’s not on our agenda but Patson tells me it is an absolute must-see and the place he sends all of his guests on day trips. William Giroi greets me as we pull the banana boat up on his sandy white beach. He seems to be expecting me as well and he smiles broadly. “Yu kam storian wit me.” Let’s talk. Saeragi Beach was devastated by a Tsunami in 2011, most of the villagers moved to higher ground and never returned. William thought the tourists would eventually come back and spent the next two years building two bungalows in the hope they would stay. Saeragi is secluded and beautiful, a perfect honeymoon destination and at just $SBD200 a night ($AUD30), paradise is a bargain. For those that have travelled to Vanuatu’s famed Champagne Beach, this is her rival – but thankfully, there’s no sign of a cruise ship here. I don’t want to leave but short on time and with much to
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see, we’re off again. About 20 minutes later, after being joined by dolphins on the way, we are on approach to Sanbis Resort. With its overwater reception and long jetty leading to the main resort I wonder when the beauty of this region ever stops. Sanbis offers comfortable waterfront bungalow accommodation and a lodge which offers total privacy for small groups. Bungalows have ceiling fans to ensure cooling breezes all day and night whilst the lodge has air-conditioned comfort. Scuba, game fishing, surfing and boating are all on offer at Sanbis. It’s a different category of resort than the others I have seen, with more Western comforts. Bungalows start at $AUD268 per night, the Lodge from $AUD855 per night. Back in the boat and the next stop is an under-construction resort in the most stunning location I’ve seen yet. There is a strong sense of confidence in this region, the troubles of the past seem all but gone and in fact, I’m later corrected – the Solomon’s well-publicised civil war never affected this part of the country. Western Province people are friendly and welcoming and I feel completely safe during my stay.
Fatboys Resort (right) has a laid-back, come-as-you-are feel to it and with great accommodation, this paradise is close to perfection.
We can’t get in to the new resort for a closer look; the workmen can’t hear us over the banging of tools so we depart for Fatboys. What a terrible name for a resort, I think, but on the way we’re again joined by dolphins, a sea turtle pops his head up to say hello and I see stingray in the shallow water. “All we’re missing are sharks,” I joke. Of course I speak too soon, around the jetty at Fatboys we spot several harmless black tip reef sharks. All of a sudden the name of the resort is irrelevant, I’m in a water-lover’s paradise and think my guide has saved the best ‘til last. Turns out Fatboys is named after a character in the Dickens classic The Pickwick Papers. “Joe” liked to eat a lot, drink a lot and avoid work as much as possible, which is exactly what the staff at Fatboys encourage their guests to do as well. It’s laid-back cool, the open-air restaurant may not have seen much in the way of maintenance in the last few years and the décor leaves a bit to be desired, but the atmosphere is so cool and relaxed you immediately want to kick off your shoes and make friends with the barman.
Jimmy Buffet is playing on the stereo, I’m offered anything I want to eat for lunch and provided they have the ingredients, the happy kitchen team will make it. The drinks are cold and the view out to Kennedy Island (the very one where JFK found refuge after his boat sank during WW2) is, well, it’s just spectacular and I’ve completely run out of superlatives to describe this place. Again I don’t want to leave, I’ve fallen in love and find myself wanting to settle in for an afternoon of drinking beer and avoiding work as much as possible. But this is work so therefore I must tell you to get on a plane to Gizo immediately; it is absurd that there are not more visitors here. It is safe, friendly, beautiful and welcoming. After two days I’m back in Honiara and find myself looking at the capital in a different light. Everything seems better now and I know I have Gizo to thank for that. • For information on the Solomon Islands, contact the Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau or visit www. flysolomons.com
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Eating Out
n Honiara I Whether holidaying in Honiara, travelling for business or new to Solomon Islands, finding good places to eat out can be tricky if you’re not a local. Our top two picks not only provide mouth watering food they also have an ambience that is unrivalled and are both located on the water’s edge. By Bronwyn Norris.
Heritage Park Hotel
Heritage Park Hotel has hosted a number of famous guests from Prince William and Princess Kate to Prime Ministers and an array of Pacific officials. With due reason it claims the reputation of being Honiara’s best hotel and it is easy to see why. Spanning over five acres on the former Governor General’s Residence, the grounds are tropical green and inviting for the 48 hotel rooms and 39 apartments. Heritage Park offers three different dining options depending on your mood. The Terrace restaurant is located just past reception in the garden setting. Relax in the comfortable cane chairs in the cool breezeway for a casual lunch, or a coffee with a delicious pastry. If you prefer to enjoy the sunset with ocean views then the pool side at Splash Bar and Grill is where you want to go. Order a cold Solbrew or a cocktail and watch the sun sink over the horizon or swim in the pool before enjoying BBQ lobster, freshly grilled snapper or BBQ steak. However if you wanting fine dining, then the Renaissance Restaurant, off the Terrace Bar is where you can enjoy a delicious dinner. With an Indian inspired menu the Renaissance offers a large selection of dishes from modern Australian, Indian to Italian – with something for everyone, utilising fresh local ingredients to their best. The restaurant also hosts special dinners including a Sunday roast and curry night. With so many choices Heritage needs to be included in your itinerary whether for business or pleasure.
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Coral Sea Resort & Casino Newly opened in December 2015 Coral Sea Resort & Casino is a little piece of luxury to be found in Honiara, just a short walk from the city centre to Town Ground. Set in an architecturally-designed building beautifully suited to the Pacific, Coral Sea is not only a Casino, where comfortable, air conditioned rooms offer blackjack, keno and poker machines, there’s more to enjoy here. On hot days take a dip in the pool and order a drink or snack and enjoy it poolside. Boasting an open air cocktail and coffee bar where you can order drinks and light meals while catching up with friends. Or if you prefer just sit back and enjoy your drink while looking out beyond the pool to the turquoise ocean. The cocktails are a diverse array from your old favourites to some specially crafted unique ones only found here, it’s the perfect place to unwind. The highlight for many is Haydn’s Steakhouse. As the name suggests steak is on the menu, if your after t-bone, eye fillet, rib fillet or rump you will not be disappointed. Beef sourced from Australia, New Zealand and Vanuatu ensures the finest quality for guests. However steak is not the only item on the menu, Haydn’s presents a modern Australian influence with an Asian Pacific twist. Diners can enjoy beef ribs, duck rolls, fresh fish or the seafood tower. With live entertainment most evenings it provides excellent food, beautiful views and a great atmosphere. Open for lunch with burgers and chicken parmigiana or afternoon drinks with Asian platters for groups. Haydn’s is the place to get away from it all in Honiara.
Your guide to the Hapi Isles d do... n a e e s o t what
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rade the city life for a few days for a slower pace to enjoy the sea breeze under a coconut tree. Whether you have an interest in WWII, scuba diving, experiencing a new culture or just want to relax, Solomon Islands has a lot to offer even for a short break. This unique country is known as the Hapi Isles and this is immediately evident when you meet any local Solomon Islander. From the happy smiles to the friendly ‘hello’ or ‘morning morning’, you will feel welcome in this special Melanesian culture. If this is your first visit to the Solomon Islands, here are some tips on what there is to do in the capital. Be sure to pack your snorkel gear, sun glasses, swimwear and if you are more adventurous good hiking shoes to enjoy Honiara and all it has to offer.
Where are the Solomons?
An archipelago of 992 islands, we are located in the South Pacific, north-east of Australia between Papua New Guinea (PNG) and Vanuatu.
People & Culture
Solomon Islanders are a blend of mainly Melanesian, Micronesian and Polynesian people with a population of around 550,000. Our cultural values stem back thousands of years and are very much linked to our land and surrounding seas. Most of the population still live a subsistence lifestyle where family and village community are the centre of social life.
Climate
Tropical. The drier and cooler months are April to October. It’s warmer and more humid from November to March. Average day time temperature around 28c.
Honiara Central Market
The Honiara Central Market is the hub for shopping especially organically grown produce. Fishermen land their banana boats and unload large eskies full of freshly caught fish, squid and lobsters. Enjoy a vast array of tropical fruits particularly bananas, pineapples and papaya grown in a perfect Pacific climate full of flavour that is unbeatable elsewhere in the world. Cluttering the entrance to the market on a Saturday morning you will find many exotic varieties of freshly cut flowers at unbelievably cheap prices. sarongs, (locally known as lava lavas) tie-dyed and stencil-printed make a great present for family and friends. Locally crafted jewellery including
necklaces, earrings, bangles and traditional shell money can be purchased for very reasonable prices.
Diving & Snorkelling
Warm water coupled with wrecks make the Solomon Islands a diver’s dream. The best part is you don’t need to be in a boat for hours to dive a wreck and explore amazing sea-life, it is often within a short swim from shore. A 10-minute drive from Honiara are two well known dive spots – the Japanese transport ship wrecks at Bonegi I – Hirokawu Miru, and Bonegi II – Kinugawa Maru. The best part about these dive spots is they are excellent for snorkellers as well with a diverse array of sea-life visible through crystal waters. There is a small custom fee to access the beach and for diving, but enjoying a private beach, the coral reefs and beautiful scenery surrounded by coconut trees is worth it. For more dive information and gear hire contact Neil from Tulagi Dive at dive@tulagidive.com .
Nggela (Florida) Islands
Escape the capital and cross the horizon to the islands in the distance. A two-hour boat ride will take you from Honiara to the Nggela islands and more amazing dives. If you want history visit the old capital Tulagi and see the foundations of the old British residence which has a sensational view of the surrounding islands. Have lunch or stay at Raider’s Resort, which has a private beach and offers trips to neighbouring islands and escorted dive spots. Visit a local communityrun resort in the Nggelas and enjoy excellent snorkelling or relax in a hammock just a few steps from the water. If you are chasing dolphins or a volcanic trek then Savo Island is the place to visit. No matter the resort or island you visit you are guaranteed to have access to an uncrowded beach, great snorkelling and swimming in the warm waters and true relaxation opportunities to take in the island time!.
Museum & Art Gallery
Visit the National Museum for a taste of Solomon Islands culture, it is located in the central part of town and close to most of the main hotels. Solomon Islanders posses many talents particularly in the arts and like many in the Pacific, are blessed with melodic voices and Melanesian island rhythm. From knitting, tie-dying and basket weaving to crafting jewellery from shells or paper, there are beautiful items to purchase to remember your time in the ‘Hapi Isles’. Taking inspiration from the sea, Solomon Islanders craft and carve
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Relax at a beach
The tropical warm waters are just a short drive away offering a choice of pebble, coral, or fine sand beaches. The water is crystal clear and tepid in temperature. Drop into the ocean from a rope swing at Kakambona beach, a coconut-tree lined pebble beach. A local favourite is Turtle beach. Relax in the shade and shelter from the sun in little leaf huts or under the canopy of trees just metres from the beach. Take a 30-minute drive to a small Catholic convent at Visale where a picturesque bay with calm waters offers snorkelling and a coral beach. Most beaches close to Honiara have signs and a small access fee (custom fee) payable to enter. Try a local roadside BBQ for a great picnic lunch.
Fishing
Deep tropical waters provide the perfect environment for an abundance of fish. If you’re an angler but don’t have time to visit the provinces then go on a fishing charter. Henk from Ripples can organise a charter for you. The charter can be tailored to your personal requirements if you
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should want to stop at an island for a swim or snorkel. Ripples’ boat comfortably seats 12 adults and is reasonable in price. Contact Henk on ripplesfreedom@hotmail.com to arrange a charter.
Transport
Taxis are widely available in Honiara. While some have meters, it is advisable to set the price prior to commencing your trip. Ask at your accommodation reception desk prior for an estimate on trip prices. Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau staff can also assist – contact them for more information. Buses generally operate along the main East-West corridor from King George School at the eastern end to Rove and White River to the west. Services also operate inland to up to Naha. Less frequent routes also extend further afield. Rental cars are also available. Solomon Airlines flies to 22 domestic ports from Honiara. There are regular shipping services to many parts of the Solomons from Honiara.
Business Hours
Most shops in town open from 8.30 am to 5.00 pm Monday to Friday and until noon on Saturday.
Language
English is the official language of the Solomons, but Pijin is spoken by about half the population. In the early 1900s, copra plantations were established, the labourers employed on them had also worked in Queensland where they had used pidgin English. The local variety stabilised early and several religious missions adopted it for use. •
PICTURE: Jo O’Shea..
amazing bowls, statues and wall hangings. The carvers use several types of wood including rosewood, kerosene wood and queen and king ebony. They delicately set shell inlay for decoration to create beautiful and practical artwork. You can purchase directly from the carver at the Art Gallery best done during the week as many locals attend church on the weekends. However if you are visiting during the last weekend in the month, Sunday is ‘Art in the Park’ held at Rove playgrounds.
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