Islandliving samoa from the editor
AUTUMN 2017 | ISSUE 19
N ulge yourself ext issue, we will be celebrating four years of Pacific Island Living. We started this magazine for Pacific people – to find, review and recommend things to see and do, and ultimately, buy. We are proudly an aspirational magazine, we want our readers to sit back and indulge just as much as we want to tell the world how great the Pacific really is. From Georgie Gordon’s health and beauty columns, to Carolyn Ernst’s gardening tips, we hope you agree Pacific Island Living has something for everyone. In four years our market has grown from Vanuatu and Nauru Airlines to cover most of the Pacific. We’re particularly proud of our market share in Fiji and the Solomon Islands as well as our distribution in Australia through Qantas Club lounges. As I write this column I’m in Fiji, having just flown in from Vanuatu. Next month it will be Nauru then the Sollies. Pacific Island Living truly is a Pacific magazine and we’re so pleased you have enjoyed it and helped its growth over the last four years. Please do keep in touch via our website, Facebook page, Instagram or Twitter. Happy reading. Tiffany Carroll
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and Instagram at instagram.com/pacisliving or read this and all our magazines online at www.pacific-island-living. com Cover images - Fiji Island Living courtesy Adrenalin Fiji; Solomon Island Living, by David Kirkland; Nauru Airlines Cover courtesy Nautilus Resort, Kosrae; Vanuatu cover courtesy Pavol Stranák. Copyright: All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu Tourism Office or Pacific Island Living.
EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW FOR THE PERFECT SAMOA HOLIDAY PLUS FOOD I FASHION I BEAUTY I HEALTH I FINANCE islandliving | 1 pacific
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PHOTOS: Cover, Sinalei Resort. This page Manoa Tours, Samoa.
hat beautiful Samoa truly has is something for everyone. We all need a detox from the daily grind. After working hard, you deserve a good pampering. There’s a very good reason why Samoa is described as ‘paradise’. Relaxation begins the moment you touchdown on our islands – with the scent of frangipani in the air, the gentle rolling of the waves as they kiss the shore, a ukulele playing in the distance with the harmonious vocals of locals to complement it. When you’re not too busy taking it easy topping up your tan on one of our white sand beaches, or having a leisurely stroll in a lush rainforest or bathing in a watering hole fed by
a cascading waterfall, our resorts await you with spa facilities designed to truly spoil you. Set among pristine surroundings and staffed by attendants trained in the art of relaxation, allow them to massage your worries away using fresh organic products prepared minutes before your arrival, using techniques practiced and perfected over 3,000 years. Looking for heaven on earth? Beautiful Samoa awaits…
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Samoa o f n i l usefu
The best advice you can receive in Samoa is to quickly get in to the Samoan way of life. Take it easy, relax, be happy.
Sunsets in Samoa are rather spectacular.
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alofa! You’ll be hearing that many times when you visit Samoa. The national language of Samoa is Samoan, although English is used for business communications. English is widely spoken, especially in Apia, but it’s always helpful to know a few words of the local language. The following Samoan phrases will probably be useful during your stay in Samoa. By adding a few Samoan words to your conversations, you will be sure to win smiles from the locals.
The local lingo English
Samoan
Pronunciation
Hello
Talofa
Tah-lo-far
Goodbye
Tofa
Toh-far
Thank you
Fa’afetai
Fa-ah-feh-tie
Please
Fa’amolemole
Fa-ah-moh-le-moh-le
Yes
Ioe
Ee-oh-e
No
Leai
Le-ai
Maybe
Masalo
Ma-sa-loh
That’s all right ‘Ua lelei
Oo-a-lelay
big / small
tele / la’ititi
teh-leh / lah ee-tee-tee
quick / slow
tope / gese
toh-peh / nge-seh
early / late
vave / tuai
vahveh / two-eye
near / far
latalata / mamao lah-tah-lah-tah / mah-maow
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Getting between the Samoan Islands
The Samoa Shipping Corporation runs the passenger/vehicle ferry between the main islands of Upolu and Savai’i. The ferry departs from the Mulifanua Wharf on Upolu near the international airport, so if you are travelling from Apia, allow 45 minutes for the journey. The ferry departs from the Salelologa Wharf on Savai’i for the return journey. The trip takes just over one hour each way and it pays to arrive early at the wharf to purchase your tickets. Check with your accommodation hosts or online at: www. samoashipping.com/domesticsailing_schedule.htm for sailing times. One way passenger fares are ST$6 for child 2–12 years and adults ST$12. Vehicle charges (depending on the size of the vehicle) are between ST$80 $110 each way. The full fare list is available here. Polynesian Airlines operates flights between Fagalii (Upolu) and Maota (Savai’i) every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. For schedule information and bookings visit Polynesian Airlines website. To get to Manono Island, boats operate from the Manono-uta at the western end of Upolu, just down the road from Mulifanua Wharf. One way fares cost ST$1 for children and ST$3 for adults one way. The boats to Manono Island do not operate to a set timetable, but can be arranged on site at Manono-uta. If you wish to take a charter ferry, you will need to pay WS$25 oneway. If not, you can wait for other passengers and pay WS$3.
Banks
ANZ and Bank South Pacific are the two international banks found in Samoa. Both have branches at the international airport, in Apia and at Salelologa on Savai’i. National Bank of Samoa and Samoa Commercial Bank provide services, currency exchange and ATMs. ATMs are located in and around Apia and on the island of Savai’i. Travellers can use credit cards in the machines but you are required to have a PIN to withdraw cash.
Internet cafés
Staying connected with family and friends, and maybe sharing a status update or photos of your Samoan stay on Facebook or Instagram is easy with eight broadband internet cafes to be found around Apia and one on the island of Savai’i. Major hotels and resorts also offer internet terminals for guests in their business centres. WiFi is also available at many locations.
Mobile Phones
There are two main telecommunications providers in Samoa: Digicel and Bluesky Samoa. Both providers offer extensive coverage. Prepaid SIM cards are available at Faleolo International Airport and at outlets in Apia. Taxis are abundant around the islands and offer their services at a very good rate. Taxis are not metered so it’s good to have an idea of what the journey will cost and agree on a price with the driver before setting off.
Manaia Spa
Manaia Polynesian Spa at Sheraton Samoa Aggie Grey’s Resort is for you to add indulgence and relaxation to your prefect topical getaway. Its tropical rainforest location with the Pacific Ocean as the backdrop is a sanctuary for guests to revitalize with Samoan inspired signature treatments. Treatments at this impressive spa has been custom designed to help you settle into island time and relish your well-earned break. The wooden structures and dim lights set the relaxing mood in this expansive space where peace and tranquility awaits you. A spacious lounge with reading materials is the perfect place to connect with other guests while waiting for your treatment or just enjoying the spa experience. The spa plunge pool with day beds is prefect to soak up the sun and bathe yourself with relaxing jets of water. If not at the spa enjoy your massage in your room or on the Palm Pier with 360-degree ocean views and lapping waves to soothe you. Use the sauna prior to your treatment to get the most out of your experience and afterwards to take in the environment use the spa Jacuzzi. The five different treatment rooms are set in a tropical rainforest and their knowledgeable spa associates emanate friendliness and unsurpassed hospitality, whether it be while performing signature treatments or advising guests on the spa’s various product lines. Signature treatments include Manaia facials, body treatments and massages.
Sunset photo by Monoa Tours, Samoa and Manaia Spa, Sheraton Aggie Grey’s Hotel..
Catching the bus in Samoa
Another fun way to explore the islands – and get to know the locals – is to take a map and board a local bus. Samoa’s brightly coloured buses provide inexpensive transport for the locals, and an invaluable experience and memories for visitors. In Apia, the bus terminals are located next to the food market in Fugalei and also opposite the flea market at Savalalo. On Savai’i, the bus terminal is at the market in Salelologa. All buses are named with their destination, so ask the driver which bus you need to catch. Note that aside from the terminals, there are no designated bus stops, so you will need to wave down a bus (use your whole arm and keep your palm facing downwards) as it approaches. The seats are wooden benches, and if the bus becomes full, the locals will opt to sit on each others’ lap, rather than stand in the aisles. This is a courtesy often offered to visitors as well, so don’t be offended or shy if someone offers you their lap. If the bus is heading into either Apia or Salelologa, the locals may carry their produce on board to the markets. When you want to get off, simply pull the cord to ring the buzzer. You pay your fare as you leave the bus. Tipping is not practised or expected in Samoa. However, if a guest wishes to leave a gift for good service then you are welcome to do so directly with the employee or the hotel reception.
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Dining Guide
FOOD TRAIL Samoan sensations For a first time visitor, Samoa has a surprising number of good quality restaurants on both Upolu and Savai’i. From traditional Samoan fare (which equates to good nutritious food and plenty of it) to fine dining and great coffee, the selection is wide and varied, reports Tiffany Carroll.
Sinalei Resort
From the farm, the ocean to your plate: they keep it simple at Sinalei Reef Resort & Spa and with good reason – it works. With three restaurants to choose from, each has a different menu but the same philosophy. “Our simple philosophy is fresh, local and honest food. Our latest menu offerings represent Sinalei’s ongoing exploration of the ‘farm and ocean to plate’ philosophy. We are continually challenging ourselves, and our local farmers to provide more variety and more sustainable ways to bring you the truest in contemporary Samoan cuisine.” The team at Sinalei strive to make everything in-house for the ultimate in fresh food experience. All baked goods, pastas, tortillas, flatbreads, dumplings and wrappers, sauces, dressings, jams, marmalade to desserts are crafted with pride and passion by the creative and dedicated team. But it’s not just delivering good food that is important at
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Sinalei; the resort aims to foster relationships with local farmers, the resort staff and their families. Day guests can choose from the over-water restaurant Ava I Toga, or the casual poolside diner Uncle Harry’s (great for sunset cocktails) or Laumosooi for traditional fare and Fia Fia nights in the central fale (above). These nights include traditional Samoan food and live local bands – not to be missed. .
Sheraton Aggie Grey’s Hotel Located in the centre of Apia, this inviting retreat has an air of Raffles about it. The colonial-style architecture is matched by gorgeous furniture inside. Start your day with coffee and a croissant from the Lobby lounge. Revel in all-day dinning at Feast. Be enchanted on Wednesday nights by the Sheraton’s signature cultural celebration (Fiafia Show) with fire dancing (Siva Afi). The
Terrace (top) is perfect for a relaxing lunch or dinner or perhaps to sip a cocktail under the cooling fans. With four meeting spaces, this luxurious hotel is the perfect venue for meetings and events in Samoa. There is a wide range of function rooms to cater to smaller meetings with 2-10 executives or high-profile conferences and incentive trips with up to 500 guests.
Taumeasina Island Resort
A surprising and very welcome find at Taumeasina Island Resort is that the five star hotel does not have five star prices. With formal and casual dining available, day guests are welcome to visit for the island for breakfast, lunch and
dinner seven days a week. The Lapita Restaurant (above left) holds internationally themed buffets each night. On Monday it’s Steak Night – with the best organic local steaks in Samoa. Tuesday is Seafood Night with fresh market seafood. Wednesday is the Samoan Sunset Beach Buffet and Thursday it’s the Asian Wok and Dim Sum Buffet. Fridays at Lapita it’s the Flavours of the world Buffet and Saturday the Samoan Fia Fia Extravaganza at $85pp is on. This is a night not to miss. Children under six – 50% off Buffets Nights from Wednesday to Sunday The island’s fine dining restaurant Sinas (above right) specialises in Samoan inspired meals using the finest, freshest ingredients and a fabulous wine list.
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Surf’s Up in Samoa s k a e r b t s e b
s ’ a i s e n y l Po
Michael Kewpe’a has surfed all over the Pacific, but thinks Samoa offers not only some decent breaks, but a great holiday too. Here are his tips for surfing Upolo.
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he rugged volcanic coastline of Upolu, Samoa’s second largest island, smack-dab in the heart of Polynesia offers a diverse collection of powerful coral-reef waves and rich culture. Samoa is regarded as the most traditional of Polynesian nations, and Upolu boasts an incredibly lush, steaming landscape, consistent swell, pristine surf spots, and friendly locals. When: Antarctica and the North Pacific aren’t sissies when it comes to brewing swell, so you can generally find surf year-round on Upolu. For the south coast, the best months to go are April through July, with April having the least wind. The E-SE trade winds can be a buzz-kill in the dry season, which is also the surf season for the south coast. The north coast pumps from November to March. Autumn is a good time for both coasts, since south swells often last into October. Upolu is uncrowded and unspoiled because its waves don’t suit the average longboarder or novice. Hence
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Upolu’s epic environs, its lack of local surfers, oodles of swell, and its authentic tropical allure. Samoa is primarily best for shortboarding, especially if you’ve got a penchant for tube-riding, because Upolu barrels and spits and snaps boards with the best of ‘em – there’s probably a Samoan Teahupo’o over there somewhere, but the world doesn’t know about it …yet. Surfers fly direct from New Zealand, Australia and Hawaii to Apia. Once here, you can rent a car (about $40/day for a cheapie, but to expand your options I recommend renting a 4WD for about $55/day), hire taxis, or ride the public bus, which stops near several surf spots and is a fun experience, but not overly comfortable. You can also stay at one of the surf resorts. By South Pacific standards, Upolu has a fairly decent tourism infrastructure (though it’s quite un-touristy), and you can find something within your budget in the capital of Apia. From there, with a taxi or bus or rented jeep, you can easily access all of Upolu. Those who want a little
pre-paid surf guidance and quick access to boats might consider the pleasant fale (bungalows) at Sa’Moana Resort, Salani Surf Resort, or the Coconuts Beach Club, all three located on Upolu’s surf-rich south coast. A great choice for a little luxury is Sinalei Resort (featured later in the magazine). If you’re staying at one of the surf resorts, you’ll likely just eat there – the food is great. Otherwise, a plethora of South Seas grub is widely and cheaply available throughout the island, especially in Apia (there’s a McDonald’s too, but last we checked, Big Macs aren’t Polynesian). You’re in luck if you like breadfruit, coconuts, taro, pigs, and fish, because Samoan meals are full of that stuff. Don’t leave Upolu without partaking in an umu feast, where the food is cooked in a dirt oven. Since the advent of packaged surf tours on Upolu, allstar spots like Boulders, Coconuts, and Nu’usafe’e can get relatively ‘crowded’ on good days. If you’re cruising
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independently, you can most definitely scout your own spot on any given day. But if you’re booked at one of the surf joints, plan on surfing with the guys and gals staying at your resort, and sometimes the resorts take guests to the same spots concurrently. Needless to say, Upolu is far from crowded, and almost none of the locals surf, but it probably won’t be long until they catch on.
Useful information
Other Activites: Ever played cricket? Samoans have their own version called kirikiti – it’s a blast, and the guys will gladly show you the ropes. If you’re a fan of the late writer Robert Louis Stevenson, pay a visit to his former home, now a museum. Upolu’s fishing and diving are unreal and its interior rain forests are equally epic for scenery, hiking, and waterfall fun. Lounging on an idyllic Upolu beach isn’t so bad, and there are several to choose from. Surf the Web: The surf tour operators’ sites have loads of good info. Try the Surf Travel Company (www.surftravel. com.au/destinations/samoa/) and World Surfaris (www. worldsurfaris.com/region/samoa). For general info, the Samoa Tourism Authority offers plenty at www.samoa.travel.
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PICTURES: SINALEI RESORT.
Don’t Forget: Upolu is tropical, so you won’t need a lot of clothing; sunblock, a rain slicker and a hat are always good, though. There are no surf shops on Upolu, so bring everything you’ll need, especially reef booties, because most of the reefs are super sharp and shallow. You’ll need surfboards that work in steep, hollow waves as a consequence.
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