Pacific Island Living Issue 20 by Pacific Island Living

Islandliving paciﬁc

WINTER 2017 | ISSUE 20

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ext issue, we will be celebrating four years of Pacific Island Living. We started this magazine for Pacific people – to find, review and recommend things to see and do, and ultimately, buy. We are proudly an aspirational magazine, we want our readers to sit back and indulge just as much as we want to tell the world how great the Pacific really is. From Georgie Gordon’s health and beauty columns, to Carolyn Ernst’s gardening tips, we hope you agree Pacific Island Living has something for everyone. In four years our market has grown from Vanuatu and Nauru Airlines to cover most of the Pacific. We’re particularly proud of our market share in Fiji and the Solomon Islands as well as our distribution in Australia through Qantas Club lounges. As I write this column I’m in Fiji, having just flown in from Vanuatu. Next month it will be Nauru then the Sollies. Pacific Island Living truly is a Pacific magazine and we’re so pleased you have enjoyed it and helped its growth over the last four years. Please do keep in touch via our website, Facebook page, Instagram or Twitter. Happy reading. Tiffany Carroll

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com Cover images - Fiji Island Living courtesy Adrenalin Fiji; Solomon Island Living, by David Kirkland; Nauru Airlines ISSN 2200-9566 Cover courtesy 03Nautilus Resort, Kosrae; Vanuatu cover courtesy Pavol Stranák.

Copyright: All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu Tourism Office or Pacific Island Living.

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must say, putting together this issue of Pacific Island Living, our fifth anniversary issue has been the most extraordinary time for me. In our efforts to collect stories for features on what to do without kids in countries that are renowned for being kid-friendly, I’ve come to realise the Pacific really does have something for everyone. And whilst my own kids have loved holidays in Vanuatu and Fiji, my time without them here has been, dare I say it, just as fun. This issue began with a trip to Nauru to experience game fishing for the first time. Next was Solomon Islands to go cave diving in the beautiful Western Province. Then on to Vanuatu to experience, admittedly for not the first time, the famous long lunch at Tamanu on the Beach, to Fiji to dive with tiger and bull sharks and beautiful, peaceful Samoa. And I’ve covered not even one percent of the things you can do without kids in these gorgeous countries. Georgie Gordon has put together a list of adults-only websites (not that kind!) which will have you in stitches and our regular health and beauty features include a terrific find in Fiji. Also in this issue we feature a story on a refugee making life better for himself and others in Nauru, the success story of Vanuatu’s cricket team, and welcome Foxtel personality Rosie Jacobs to the team with her funny take on life in the Pacific. Happy reading.

Tiffany Carroll Find us on Facebook

www.facebook.com/pacificislandliving, Twitter

@PacIsLiving

and Instagram at instagram.com/pacisliving or read this and all our magazines online at: www.pacificislandliving.com Copyright: All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu Tourism Office, Samoa Tourism Authority, Photogenic Limited or Pacific Island Living. Picture this page: Diving in Munda with Solomon Island Dive Expeditions.

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Pacific Island Living No 20 | Winter 2017 Cover photo: Breakas Beach Resort by David Kirkland EDITOR Tiffany Carroll Email: tcarroll@photogenicpr.com ART DIRECTOR Tanya Green FEATURES EDITOR Georgie Gordon FASHION + STYLE EDITOR Olivia Waugh FOOD EDITOR Christiana Kaluscha GARDENING EDITOR Carolyn Ernst CONTRIBUTORS Toby Preston, Craig Osment, Pat Ingram, Rebecca Worsp, Carolyn Ernst, Christiana Kaluscha, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu Tourism Office, Tatyana Leonov, David Kirkland, Roderick Eime, Valerie Fernandez, Deborah Dickson-Smith, Francesca Grillo, Shane Deitz, Rose Jacobs, Belinda Botha, Samoa Tourism, Glenn A Baker. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Pat Ingram PUBLISHER: Craig Osment ADVERTISING INQUIRIES Rebecca Worsp: Regional Manager Fiji | Nauru | Samoa | Australia | NZ | Solomon Islands Telephone: (679) 99 46340 Email: sales@photogenicpr.com Port Vila: Eva Westfield Telephone: (678) 555 5009 Email: ewestfield@photogenicpr.com Pacific Island Living, is published quarterly by Photogenic Limited Fax (678) 23 402 | PO Box 322 Port Vila, Vanuatu Printed by APOL Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/pacificislandliving Twitter

@PacIsLiving

and Instagram

at instagram.com/pacisliving

Or read this and all our magazines online www.pacificislandliving.com

COPYRIGHT All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu Tourism Office, Samoa Tourism or Pacific Island Living.

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Munda wharf in Solomon Islands, see Tiffany Carroll’s story, Magical Munda on page 41

CONTENTS i

BEACHCOMBER This issue we feature beachy

stuff – stylish french and Italian fabric beach towels, and a new swimwear range created by indigenous Australian designer Ashley Hunter, along with a beauty from Nauru.

BOOK LOOK Georgie Gordon dips into the world of adult fiction and recommends some steamy reads for winter.

THE GREAT ESCAPE – KIDS AWAY, TIME TO PLAY We all love a family holiday but sometimes the adults just want to have fun while the kids are being amused elsewhere. Here we feature some our favourite sophisticated resorts, fishing trips and ... diving with sharks, something you definitely don’t want to share with bite-sized humans!

We take a look at the Sheraton Denarau Villas where guests get to experience their own private villa while enjoying access to all the facilities a major hotel has to offer.

PACIFIC PULSE Our round-up of Pacific happenings

CULTURE SHOCK – A DIFFERENT KINDA TRACTOR Our new column by Australian television personality Rosie Jacobs who has an amusing take on her new life living on a Pacific island.

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HIS ‘N HERS TROPICAL DRESSING Our picks from the menswear and womenswear departments of all those online emporia..

MAGICAL MUNDA Tiffany Carroll took time out to explore Munda in Solomon Islands’ Western Province. What she found was it was equally beautiful above the water as below.

ADVENTURES IN SAMOA Being extinct volcanoes, Samoa’s two islands share a landscape seemingly designed for adventure, as adventure-seeker Deborah Dickson-Smith recently found out.

this time, one Australian company and one hard working Kazari refugee have shown Nauru there is a better future with hydroponics.

DECOR – ISLAND HOME Olivia Waugh’s selection of perfect pieces for Pacific homes, from champagne flutes to ceiling fans along with a light bulb moment.

NET ASSETS Our pick of the websites we love. This time sites for fisherpersons, cocktail aficionados and travel devotees.

RESORT REPORT

BEAUTY – SUPERFOOD SKINCARE Georgie Gordon says eat yourself beautiful is the new mantra for anyone who wants healthy, glowing skin which hasn’t been smothered in chemical masks and potions.

Explore lush rainforests or tee off on a world-class golf course. Whether you’re going white water rafting or unwinding with spectacular snorkelling and a quiet swim, it’s all here. In Fiji, you just do what makes you happy.

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HEALTH – THE GOOD OIL ON FATS Listen to your avocado says Georgie Gordon because it’s talking big fat sense. Yes, there are good fats, and not only that, the good ones are essential to your wellbeing.

GUAM – A LEAP OF FAITH An old folk legend of the Pacific explains an ancient people’s love of their land. By Roderick Eime

ON THE HOOK – GAME FISHING Nauru offers some of the best and least fished waters in the Pacific. We spent the day with Equatorial Game Fishing on the hunt for the big one.

DINING GUIDE A long lunch aboard a boat in Fiji or a new dining experience in Vanuatu’s newest resort, take your pick.

YOU SAY TOMATO It’s tomato season in the Pacific with the Suva, Honiara and Port Vila markets in particular overflowing with scarlet goodness and a variety for every recipe.

KIRIBATI From the air, Kiribati is simply stunning. On the ground, friendly people, a strong culture and pristine water awaits you.

ABODE – PERFECT PATINA The concept that ‘beauty can be coaxed out of ugliness’ is, among other objectives, the underlying ethos of Perfect Imperfect a book that celebrates the effects of accident in aesthetics

GARDENING – THE ZEN ZONE Carolyn Ernst creates a space of one’s own.

CROSSWORD This issue we introduce a Pacific-themed crossword.

PEAK GREEK Craig Osment takes the ferry to Kefalonia and finds himself beside the seaside at every meal.

102 ART SMART – ART-TEE Toby Preston looks at the art people wear on their chests – from ironic to iconic.

110 BOWLED OVER Vanuatu’s national men’s team has Top: On page 24 you’ll find our glamourous new columnist Rosie Jacobs reflecting on the ‘culture shock’ of her new Pacific home. Middle: That’s our intrepid regional ad sales manager Rebecca Worsp showing off in Nauru, see page 68. Above: The Greek blues: Craig Osment takes the ferry to the island of Kefalonia and loves every minute. Page 96.

progressed through to division five in world cricket.

112 TEE UP IN FIJI Once again the Fiji International is seeking volunteers for what has to be one of the best gigs going in golf.

116 PAR AVION Toby preston unashamedly sings the praises of the long lunch in the Pacific.

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Beachcomber Every issue we bring you the news, views, people, products and places from all around the Pacific.

TOWEL TALE It’s all about the beach on this page, every good swimsuit deserves an equally stylish towel and Australian company Blem is making some pretty good looking lightweight examples. The founder Rob is a surfer and while recovering from a ‘busted knee’ in Sumatra a couple of years ago decided during his extended stint on his back that while his mates were all going into banking, he was stuck with the ‘beach bum’ label so he thought that he’d create something for beach bums, the result is a distinctive range of AUSTRALIAN INDIGINEOUS INSPIRATION Aussie swimwear brands Funky Trunks & Funkita have collaborated with Bardi artist Ashley Hunter to create a truly iconic print. The Barnamboo, which means stingray in Bardi, is inspired by stories of the Indigenous elders and proceeds from the sale of Barnamboo are directed to Indigenous community programs. A native of One Arm Point on the Dampier Peninsular 200km north of Broome, Ashley grew up seeing his own grandmother painting in oils and listening to stories of the elders. “I’ve always had a strong belief in learning, passing on and recording the stories of the elders,” explains Ashley. “Kids should be taught about culture and how our elders grew up so that the knowledge isn’t lost forever.” Barnamboo depicts the Dreamtime story of two friends Lool Lool & Marrgalinje. The two men lived together, shared food, hunted and told stories. One day Marrgalinje became angry when he found Lool Lool had been hiding turtles from him. They had a big fight with their spears and shields that lasted all day. Marrgalinje was hit in the back with a spear, stumbled into the ocean and became the sting ray and swam away. Lool Lool was hit by a boomerang, fell into the ocean and turned

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beautiful towels made from 100% cotton using French and Italian yarn, Blem beach towels are fast drying and lightweight without picking up lots of sand. Rob says “Blem strives to represent the freedom of time spent travelling and relaxing in the sun as we hope to become your ultimate beach and travelling companion. Blem represents those who never stop searching.” A big call for a towel company but why not get with the manifesto and head off to the beach. Available from www.blem.com.au

into the shark. “Creating the Barnamboo print with Funky Trunks & Funkita will ensure the story of Lool Lool & Marrgalinje lives on,” added Ashley. Proceeds from the sale of Barnamboo will be directed to Indigenous community programs as determined by the One Funky World Charity.

Beachcomber And if you have anything that’s worth knowing about, get in touch and let us in on the secret.

MISS SOUTH PACIFIC The Miss South Pacific pageant was held at Taumeasina Island Resort in Samoa late last year with contestants coming from American Samoa, Samoa, Cook Islands, Solomon Islands, Tonga, Fiji, PNG and Nauru. The girls spent several days in Samoa, visiting local schools and businesses plus a visit to the ‘big island’ of Savai’i. Miss Nauru, Luciana Detsiogo was supported by Nauru Airlines (pictured at right with CEO Geoff Bowmaker) and awarded Miss Internet. The overall winner was Miss Fiji, Anne Dunn who is a recent law graduate. She will represent the Pacific for 12 months.

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Steamy reads

A selection of books for ‘mature audiences’. Georgie Gordon heats up. AN ALMOND FOR A PARROT by Wray Delaney This raunchy read, set in London, 1756, follows Tully Truegood, a courtesan and conjuror’s assistant, as she awaits trial for murder. As she tells her life story from prison, beginning with an unhappy childhood at the hands of a drunk and violent father to her to sexual awakening and life as a celebrated whore, we are introduced to cast of vividly imagined characters and an eye-opening view of Victorian London complete with spirits, scandals and crime. Part erotic love story, part historical fiction novel, An Almond for a Parrot makes for a very entertaining read. Published by Harper Collins.

SCOUNDREL DAYS by Brentley Frazer Scoundrel Days is the no-holdsbarred memoir from Australian poet Brentley Frazer. It charts his misspent youth, a roller coaster of drugs, violence, graffiti, sex and alcohol but also explores ideas of the redemptive power of love and how adolescent boys find their place in society, all written in his urgent and beautiful prose. Born into a Christian cult Fraser’s way out was through rebellion and what followed was a succession of anti-authoritarian adventures. A compelling and inspiring coming of age story from an exciting new literary voice. Published by U.Q.P

AN UNCERTAIN GRACE by Krissy Keen Erotic fiction writer Krissy Keen’s latest novel is told in five parts and is an exploration of our physical selves in a future digital world. Part one, set in the near future follows Casper, a university lecturer, who receives a gift from a former student, a memory stick containing a virtual reality of their past sexual relationship. As Casper becomes immersed in the experience he realises that what he is experiencing is her reality, and it is very different from his memory. Provocative in more ways than one this is not your average erotic fiction book and it’s all the better for it. Published by Text Publishing.

HOW TO MURDER YOUR LIFE by Cat Marnell How to Murder Your Life is Cat Marnell’s memoir about her fall from grace and harrowing life experiences related to her drug addiction, from embarrassing public disgraces to bulimia to selfmutilation. However, what should be a decidedly depressing book is saved by her fearless and funny writing, the New Yorker relives her spectacular decline from privileged magazine beauty editor to rock bottom via an out of control pill and alcohol addiction in the most entertaining way. Candid and compelling this book is like a car crash you can’t look away from. Published by Ebury Press.

FIFTY SHADES DARKER by E L James Read the book before you catch the movie, Fifty Shades Darker is the sequel to E L James’ bestselling Fifty Shades of Grey in which Anastasia Steele has walked away from Christian Grey and their sensual relationship only to be tempted by an irresistible arrangement. When the affair is rekindled, Christian must face the demons of his past while Ana is forced to make a heart wrenching decision and confront her feelings about the woman who came before her. If you loved the first book, this second instalment in the trilogy will not disappoint. Penguin/Random House Australia

IF YOU WERE MINE by Melanie Harlow For a good old fashion rollicking romance novel you can’t go past Melanie Harlow. If You Were Mine is her latest steamy novel in which Clare, kind and generous of heart, and Theo, tall dark and handsome meet via questionable circumstances when Clare desperately needs a date for a friend’s wedding. Cue passion, chemistry and just enough emotional obstacles to keep it interesting. A fast moving plot and endearing characters make for an enjoyable and thoroughly entertaining read. Published by MH Publishing.

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Adults Only

Tired of amusing the children? Take a look at these sites which celebrate ‘maturity’. By Georgie Gordon THE BORED MIND If you like your entertainment news a little off centre or just want to immerse yourself in pop culture and escape the real world for a while, The Bored Mind offer hours of time wasting and the occasional chance to learn something, like what happens if you only eat a beetroot and cabbage salad for four days straight? Or who is going to be next to die on Game of Thrones? There is also a naughty NSFW (not safe for work) category where you can indulge in endless funny (but rude) memes and enlightening slideshows such as the 10 Most Inappropriate Wedding Dresses Ever Worn. theboredmind.com

LIFE HACK If you’re finding the whole being an adult thing a bit overwhelming turn to Life Hack for some help, or as they put it for some Tips for Life. From relationship advice to pointers on being more successful at work, Life Hack is a genuinely motivating site for whatever type of rut you may find yourself in. Delve into informed articles on health and productivity or discover what type of natural born leader you are. Peruse 10 Deeply Moving Life Stories to Remind You the Loveliness in the World to lift your spirits or tick off a list of The Best 25 Films in the 21st Century That You Should Not Miss. lifehack.org

CONDE NAST TRAVELLER The best source for bucket list travel inspiration and kid-free holiday destinations (are they perhaps the same thing?) would have to be Conde Nast Traveller. Ten minutes on this site will have you rushing out to buy a lotto ticket or at the very least starting to save your pennies in order to experience these swoon-worthy hotels and resorts. Are island holidays your thing? Check out the best luxury hotels in Fiji or why not just book your own private island? Perhaps Spain is calling you? This site loves a list, as do we, so don’t visit without first checking the Top 10 Places to Swim in Spain and of course, the Top 10 Bars in Barcelona. cntraveller.com

FISHABOUT If you are visiting the South Pacific game fishing may be high on your agenda, Fishabout is a dedicated fisherman’s guide service, you can employ them to enhance your game fishing experience or just take advantage of the comprehensive information on their website. Search by species or destination for the low-down on your best angling options. The South Pacific section of the website runs through each region and what fish you can expect to find, also best seasons to fish, recommended trip length and accommodation options. Whether you’re after Blue Marlin in Samoa or a Dogtooth Tuna in Fiji, make this site your go to. fishabout.com.au

HURRAH FOR GIN If you needed a reminder about the reason you wanted a break from the kids in the first place, Hurrah for Gin is a great place to start. This funny and frank blog by the mother of twins deals with the trials and tribulations of parenting in the funniest way. Amateur stick figure illustrations accompany blog posts with titles such as ‘I Don’t Know What the Hell I’m Doing’ and ‘Mums on the Razz’. Expect lots of swearing, parenting fails and plenty of joyful reminders of why some of us choose to have children in the first place. hurrahforgin.com

TUXEDO NO.2 This site is devoted entirely to testing and perfecting cocktails so all you have to do is scroll through for your tipple of choice and click for the foolproof recipe. The alluringly simple design of this website along with the interesting background information for each spiked drink is surprisingly captivating. Every cocktail imaginable is featured here from old-school classic to the latest trends and you can search for the perfect drink by ingredient or occasion. Our pick? The Mariners Ghost, a dark rum and mango concoction. Cheers. tuxedono2.com

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Absolute Beachfront

Land Every plot just AUD

$136,000, *images are actual lots

+(678) 29014 E: anne@firstnationalvanuatu.com

Land size from 2100 m2 to 3800 m2, all with at least 24M of beach

+(678) 24022 E: mark@lattitudeproperty.com islandliving | 13 paciďŹ c

The Great Escape e to play m i t y a w a kids

he Pacific Islands are renowned for being kid friendly. Resorts are teeming with little ankle biters during school holidays and they cater perfectly for families. There are kids clubs, cooking classes, fun parks, water slides and kids meals. But what if you want time out without little people? Well that’s no problem either. We’ve put together a short list of just a few amazing kid-free things to see and do and where to stay to ensure you’re not woken by the sounds of the squealing delights. Our picks? Tamanu on the Beach in Vanuatu for a long lunch, Waitui Club at Sofitel Resort in Denarau for adults only swimming, drinking and tanning and a massage at Taumeasina Island Resort in Samoa.

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Breakas Beach Resort Breakas Beach Resort is an intimate tropical retreat providing the ultimate feet in the sand feel for a beach holiday. It’s described as barefoot luxury and with attractive packages, comes without a luxury pricetag. Enhanced by the natural beauty of a private cove on Pango peninsular, Breakas Beach Resort rests in an unrivalled backdrop in Port Vila, Vanuatu. The award winning resort features a stunning 22 metre infinity pool which falls into the horizon of the Pacific Ocean. Being an adults only resort guarantees you will find relaxation and tranquility on your tropical escape at their magical destination. Are you looking for romance? Are you looking for relaxation, fine dining or intimate beachside bungalows to simply get away from it all? Dining at Breakas is part of the reason many

people choose this resort thanks to famed Brisbane chef Mario Alfieri (formerly of The Dining Room, Hendra). He has brought five star dining to Vanuatu. Mario’s seafood marinara is known as the best ever and comes with prawns, mussels, fish, lobster – enough of a meal in itself, but it’s the sauce that everyone raves about. Breakas Beach Resort, caters for those wanting to get away from it all … the kids, the stress, perhaps the weather. Their 63 fares are set on the beach and in beautifully landscaped gardens just 10 minutes from downtown Port Vila, but a million miles away from distraction. Everything you need to relax is here starting with the private beachfront location, the islands’ most renowned a la carte restaurant and their best asset, the fabulous NiVanuatu staff. www.breakas.com

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Island Fishing Charters Island Fishing Charters in Port Vila, Vanuatu were the new kids on the block last year, but that didn’t stop them winning several fishing competitions. Their comfortable Sea Fox 187 boat, with all the creature comforts including a toilet and huge deck space entered the 2016 Marlin Classic and took away over 250,000 vatu in cash and prizes. Named “Little Weapon” and rightly so, this 28ft machine is the perfect boat for all conditions and weather. Island Fishing Charters’ local skipper Kendrick “Kenny” George has over 15 years experience in game and reef fishing. They say the locals know best over here and that is more than true for Kenny. From reef to game fishing, Kenny’s extensive knowledge and experience will put you in prime

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position to catch ‘the one’. “With our alwayssmiling, friendly skipper and deckhand – you’ll be walking away with good memories and great experiences,” they say. With Island Fishing Charters, you can fish the huge drop-offs that surround the volcanic islands of Vanuatu or fish the many FAD’s (fish attraction devices) and famous marlin highways. Ask them about their spear fishing charters too as well as the story of their Marlin Classic success - they walked away with 1st Prize – Best Yellow Fin tuna, 2nd for Champion Boat and 2nd Prize – Champion Angler. From the most experienced angler down to the first timers Island Fishing Charters cater for everyone. Charters from VT35,000. (678) 5552277

Moyyan House By The Sea Moyyan House by the Sea is a truly exceptional place to experience rare moments of true luxury. It is a place that people return to again and again, to celebrate special occasions, to share quality time with friends, and to reconnect with each other. A private resort, set on the absolute beachfront and catering for only six couples at any time, a stay at Moyyan returns you to the true roots of luxury. It’s about feeling completely unburdened in a precious, rare environment. The serene environment at Moyyan gives guests the

precious gift of time - time to truly unwind and be in the moment with special friends or a lover. The unhurried pace of the day at Moyyan encourages guests to drink in the views, pay attention to the detail, wander and discover. The styled simplicity of Moyyan and relaxed attentiveness of the staff is treasured by guests. Moyyan sits on the edge of a tranquil lagoon, where the clear, warm waters of the Pacific meet white sand beaches. Ancient hardwood tamanu trees reach from the sand to the water’s edge,

providing shade, shelter and intimacy. The architecture of the small resort works seamlessly with this environment. Private fares (bungalows) sit amongst the sprawling trunks of the trees and are linked to the restaurant and day spa with decked walkways. Each of the six farés hold a cool and comfortable tropical welcome and invite guests to unwind in a space to call home. Ample decks to call your own are furnished with lounging and stretching out in a hammock in mind. The space tempts you to read just a little longer or share a

long drink as night falls. The untouched island of Santo, Vanuatu is a place where time slows down. Days are filled with the simple pleasures of the ni-Vanuatu people, extraordinary beaches, lagoons and deep blue swimming holes. And while all manner of adventures and experiences with tempt guests to explore Santo, but returning to Moyyan is always a pleasure awaiting at day’s end. Moyyan is proof that when choosing your next destination, small has never been bigger. www.moyyan.com

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adventure

Survivor diving with

Sharks i j i F , a q e B

I’ve dived with sharks. Heaps of them. Black and white tip reef sharks, a couple of greys. I took it in my stride from the very first sighting. That first sighting, I was diving off the coast of a small island in Vanuatu. The dive guide said we may see a ‘reefie’ or two and I remember being incredibly nervous. I asked my dive buddy to stay close to me as I was likely to panic and bolt to the surface. Instead he did, and I began my love affair with the ocean’s most misunderstood creatures. That was nearly 20 years ago. Today, just this morning, I dived with a 16ft tiger shark and countless – literally countless bull sharks. I laughed underwater, realizing

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I had in fact never dived with real sharks before. The shark dive operated by Aqua Trek at Club Oceanus Resort at Pacific Harbour in Fiji has been running since May 1999. The controlled (as far as you can control a situation with wild animals) dive is so polished, I wondered what all the fuss was about. The dive guides calmly gear up, a briefing is over in a few minutes and just when you think , hey – this is going to be a breeze, someone yells from the back of the boat “oh my God there’s a tiger shark down there!” Aqua Trek’s owner and operations manager Brandon Paige causally laughs and says yes, we’re going to

show you some big fish today. I plunge in to the water, blood pumping around my body and all previous selfcalming strategies have gone out the window. I immediately see tawny nurse sharks and reef sharks. We descend down the line to around 18m and head straight for a coral wall to take position. Immediately there are massive (well to me anything over six foot is massive) bull sharks, lemon sharks, and silvertips. It’s a rare thing to hear people talking underwater, rarer still to clearly hear nervous laughter and the odd swear word. Not today, however. As we start to settle, me ducking for cover more than once, we watch as the brave, I would argue heroic dive guides cross over the wall and get amongst the sharks. The feeding commences and with it the 16-foot tiger shark arrives on the scene. The other sharks get out of her way and after a feed of tuna head, she decides to check us out. That beautiful, majestic creature who I later find is named Survivor casually swims straight over my head. If I was stupid enough I could have touched her, but touching, pointing and any sort of movement is discouraged in the dive briefing. I was also pretty keen to keep all of my limbs. The sharks get in to a

frenzy at the smell of food, but they are not aggressive and have little interest in us. They do swim above us, behind us and in some cases in between us, but at no time are their mouths open looking to bite us. Eight species of shark were there today, surrounded by the most dangerous animals on the planet – humans. Brandon Paige is passionate about shark welfare and fish sustainability. So much so he hasn’t eaten fish in years – his favourite food. “There’s not one fisherman who can say there are more fish in the sea today than what there were five years ago. When you think about it, everything we eat on land we replace. We don’t do that with fish.” Brandon and his team treat the sharks like wild pets. They respect them, trust them and grow to love individual sharks. “It probably sounds stupid but we had a tiger come to the dive site three times a week for five years. She was 17ft when we first started feeding her. When she didn’t return after the mating season (December-April) it was like losing a family pet. I was devastated,” he said. Today apparently we were lucky to see Survivor, it’s early in the season for her to be here but Brandon puts that down to there not being enough food in the ocean to keep her away, and that saddens him.

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Aqua Trek buy all their tuna heads in Suva, from catch destined for the Japanese market. “We pay top dollar – they’re well fed sharks,” he laughs. Aqua Trek’s shark dive operates on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 0900. “The time is non negotiable. We don’t dictate that – the sharks do,” Brandon says. Transfers can be arranged from anywhere in Fiji. Two dives (yep, you get to do it twice), all dive gear and marine park entrance fees which go to local landowners are included for $FJD370. I stayed at the very comfortable and friendly Club Oceanus. Aqua Trek is on

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the premises, there are 10 large recently renovated air conditioned guest rooms, an open air restaurant and bar serving delicious food (do try the beef curry and dahl soup), swimming pool and authentic Fijian service. Rooms range from twin, triple share to the loft family room. Some have kitchenettes, all have large bathrooms Club Oceanus is on the river at Pacific Harbour. After breakfast, you simply walk the 10 steps to Aqua Trek and prepare for a dive you will never forget. Oh and in case you were wondering, no, no tourist or dive guide has ever been bitten.

aciﬁc REFUGEE INTRODUCES FRESH LOCAL VEGETABLES TO NAURU, GROWN ON A TENNIS COURT.

Nauru’s agriculture industry has a pretty grim past. Extensive phosphorous mining left only 20% of the land suitable for agricultural use by 2000. It also suffers from frequent droughts and a loss of native agricultural knowledge and practices. There is no formal commercial agriculture and limited subsistence farming. Food crops, primarily coconuts, are generally restricted to individual gardens. Driving around the country it’s rare to see any fruit trees at all and whilst airfreight is regular and imported vegetables are sometimes available, diabetes and other health concerns plague the country. For the first time, fresh local grown salad and

vegetables are now available on the island thanks to an unexpected source. Bashir, a 26 year old ethinic Hazaragi mechanic escaped the Taliban after he was kidnapped and nearly killed to find himself in detention on Nauru. After gaining refugee status, he took a look around the island and realised if he was going to eat well, he needed to grow food himself. This determined young man studied English night and day and researched soil types, pollination, seeds, fertilizers, anything that would help start his own garden. Bashir decided the only way forward was to construct a hydroponic farm, and with the support of Connect Settlement Services, he scrounged components and a little advice, and started his

first farm. The farm was somewhat of a novelty in Nauru, with school groups touring the facility and eventually gaining the attention and personal visit from the President of Nauru and the Australian High Commissioner. From the first harvest, it was a success and Bashir gave away fresh vegetables to locals, restaurants and other refugees. Sadly, the announcement by Connect Settlement Services to withdraw from Nauru meant Bashir’s financial support for the farm had disappeared, so the Nauru Government stepped in as the commercial backer. A decision to build a larger scale farm was the next step, so the Nauruan government turned to Hydro Masta,

an Australian company specialising in remote hydroponic projects. “With an extensive experience in hydroponics, Hydro Masta Pty Ltd has done projects for commercial growers, schools and home growers. Our website has a banner saying ‘Growing food without soil’, which perfectly describes the needs of Nauru as it’s truly a place without either soil or food,” Hydro Masta’s managing director Trevor Holt said. “In fact every week, ten tonnes of perishable food is flown in from market gardens as far away as Victoria in southern Australia. Fresh water is also in short supply, so soil-based farming in this very hot equatorial climate has more than a few challenges. Hydroponic

islandliving | 21 paciﬁc

Fall in love all over again at Breakas From dining on our beach to relaxing in our idyllic tropical setting, this really is magic. Come and create your very own unforgettable romantic holiday in our little slice of paradise.

Book your ‘adults only’ holiday today! Phone 25844 Email reservations@breakas.com www.breakas.com 22 | Islandliving paciﬁc

PORT VILLA | VANUATU

aciﬁc

technology can overcome these obstacles perfectly with its highly efficient use of water, and of course, no need to use soil.” Bashir’s farm moved to disused tennis courts behind the Menen Hotel. The entire area is now utilised for hydroponics. The first stage, (just for leafy greens, such as varieties of lettuce and a range of herbs) will produce 2,000 mature plants a week. Space for a second stage to grow fruiting plants like tomatoes and eggplants has been reserved at one end of the courts. “Bashir joined the Hydro Masta team on day one, and finding someone on the island who not only knew a lot about hydroponics, but was competent (and a hard working force of nature!) was more than a bonus, it

was literally a good omen for the whole project, which needed someone local to run it, and deal with the difficult conditions on Nauru, from procuring equipment to navigating the local culture,” Mr. Holt said. Bashir has taken the role as operations manager and oversees every step of the production and is training local staff as the farm expands into full production. The first planting was late January 2017, with just six benches, and then every week another four benches were established to begin the rotating process of planting and harvesting. By the first week in March, the first benches were ready to pick, wash and pack into the salad mix with some in bulk boxes for restaurants on the island.

The response was immediate with “we will buy whatever you produce” calls from the Eigigu Corporation’s supermarket, restaurants, even the Nauru Airlines’ caterers. The salad packs jumped off the shelf. As a demonstration of viability, this farm is proving already the demand is there, and as it overcomes various challenges Hydro Masta is confident that hydroponics is now proven technology in a difficult environment that until now hasn’t grown food on this scale. “This small farm is just the beginning for hydroponics on Nauru, as the demand is many times what this farm alone can supply. But with a gross weekly revenue approaching about $4,000 when the farm is in full

rotation and output, it’s not hard to envisage expansion of this technology,” Mr. Holt said. One Australian company and one hard working Hazaragi refugee have shown Nauru there is a better future with hydroponics.

*Ed’s note: Bashir is currently awaiting an application for refugee transfer to America as part of the refugee swap deal announced by the Australian government in 2016. Until then, he continues to work morning and night on his hydroponic farm, supplying fresh salads and vegetables to the people of Nauru.

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A Different Kinda Tractor In her first regular column for Pacific Island Living, Australian television personality Rose Jacobs from Channel 7 and Foxtel’s Lifestyle Channel adjusts to her new island life with her sense of humour intact after a muddy moment of mateship and humanity island-style. Follow Rose on Instagram @rosejacobs1

t’s early days in our new life as residents of Vanuatu and although I expected (and hoped for) a total culture shock, I never quite expected the humour that has come along for the ride. It’s true that Aussies and New Zealanders believe they have a certain laissezfaire attitude to life but I can now attest to the fact that Ni Vanuatu locals hands down possess the funniest outlook of all. Allow me to describe a moment in time. 1:40pm, and school is out for the day. I’ve just collected my two daughters and our little neighbour from the pikinini’s class at Port Vila International School. Our little old red, rusted through, soft-top jeep wrangler is our new family car until we can get our hands on a safer, more roadworthy and air conditioned form of transport. But for now, every drive is

24 | Islandliving paciﬁc

an adventure and so far, the gearbox hasn’t entirely fallen off, so we’re great! I’m pulling out of the school grounds and thanks to recent rains, the road to the left of me resembles a kava-coloured swimming pool of water. What should be a small roadpuddle of run-off has become a massive, muddy swamp that has also managed to swallow a small mini van. Now here’s the difference. My Sydney brain instantly told me a few things. 1. I had a car full of kids. 2. I was new to a foreign country. 3. I was driving around solo as a female in said country. 4. I was sweating like a pig and I desperately wanted to get home and throw myself in the ocean. And then I looked in the rear view mirror that was hanging on with sticky tape! My new Vanuatu brain had a rethink. My foot hit the brake (which eventually

“I can now attest to the fact that Ni Vanuatu locals hands down possess the funniest outlook of all.” responded) and the kids screeched in delight. I hit reverse and climbed out at the edge of the lake (ok, massive muddy puddle – but I felt so brave so go with me!) I toddled in my high heeled wedge shoes and denim mini skirt towards the three poor blokes attempting to push their van further into the mud and asked if they “would like a hand?”. After an awkward pause between us all – and the somewhat baffled looking dude in the non-functioning driver’s seat, they nodded enthusiastically and perhaps imagined I was going to pull a rabbit from a magic hat as my solution. Instead, my Aussie country girl instincts kicked in and along with my eastern suburbs 4wd skills that have been laying dormant, in wait of a decent roadside call for assistance, I simply grabbed my tow rope from the boot, hooked it to their front tow bar and stepped on the gas. If the rope hadn’t been soggy and rotten through, I would perhaps at that moment have looked like a hero. Alas, I did not. But this was NOT going to stop me from acheiving a successful outcome. I had an audience! The three of them, mouths open, waiting for my next move … yes, my toddlers needed to see me in my full glory, rescue these four helpless men from their sodden plight. Towing was not going to work. Especially while the dude in the driver’s seat had actually began to convulse with laughter at the spectacle

before his very eyes. I’m not kidding, he actually had tears rolling down his cheeks and he was clutching his stomach. This was not a bad hamburger, this was hands down, the most unexpected, hilarious, embarrassing moment of his day and I suspect it would also be his dinner table story for his very large family that night. One option remained. I waded (heels and all) through the mud, politely told him to move over, which in turn sent him into a spiral of further laughter and I climbed into the driver’s seat. Turns out he had the darned hand brake on, which would explain why they couldn’t push it and I couldn’t tow it! On the upside, the minute I put it into first gear and took the hand brake off, the van bolted out of the puddle and onto high ground. Hoots of laughter and gratitude proceeded and I looked like a knight in shining denim armour!! “Good luck boys!” I casually announced over my shoulder as I waded back to my jeep, victorious in three small children’s eyes and drove off into my tropical, glowing sunset. I don’t care that we got the van out. I don’t care that I proved an expat female in a tight skirt and heels can apparently work miracles. I care that my kids witnessed a marvellous moment of mateship and humanity. I care that humour is the very best way to deal with adversity. And I care that that’s the way we roll in paradise.

I’m Wearing

Tropical fragrances containing orange blossom and ginger lily

I’m Reading

The Frida Kahlo biography by Hayden Herrera and Big Magic by Elizabeth Gilbert.

I’m Loving

The French champagnes and wines available in the South Paciﬁc!

I’m Playing

Sunset beach bocce with my daughters Isabella and Francesca.

“Good luck boys!” I casually announced over my shoulder as I waded back to my jeep, victorious in three small children’s eyes and drove off into my tropical, glowing sunset.” “That’s the way we roll in paradise.” islandliving | 25 paciﬁc

Lazy days aton Villas

at Sher

Enjoy the privacy of a villa with the convenience of a resort on Denarau Island, Fiji.

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Opened May 1999 the Sheraton Denarau Villas – the first strata title development in Fiji, brought a new style of accommodation to Denarau. Comprising 82, two and three bedroom apartments, the Sheraton Denarau Villas offer total privacy with the added convenience of resort facilities. Each villa has its own private terrace or large balcony, a fully equipped kitchen, living room, large bathrooms and separate bedrooms. As with all Sheraton group properties on Denarau, Sheraton Denarau Villas guests have access to all bars, spas, restaurants and activities at The Westin and The Sheraton Fiji as well. Dining options include the Villas own Wet Edge restaurant located between the pool and beach (don’t miss their Surf

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and Turf Seafood Platter for two which offers excellent value for money and includes prawns, scallops, calamari, fish, kokoda and beef and pork ribs), Ports O’Call intimate dining at the Sheraton Fiji and The Kitchen grill at The Westin. Heavenly Spa at The Westin is Denarau’s leading spa. The menu includes massage, hydrotherapy, scrubs, facials, manicures and pedicures. Set in over 1300 square meters of tropical gardens, Heavenly Spa is exactly as the name suggests. The 10 beautifully appointed open-air rooms and two suites are designed as traditional Fijian bures and feature beautiful landscaping, a private treatment room and open-air shower, while the spa suite has all the luxury and privacy of a private changing room, air-conditioned lounge, outdoor shower and outdoor bath, it is ideal for couples.

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Exclusively for adults and located just 30 minutesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; drive from Port Vila, The Havannah, Vanuatu is an oasis of tranquility and your perfect romantic retreat. With only 17 luxurious villas set amidst elegantly landscaped gardens, you can be assured privacy and personalised service, Havannah style.

Samoa Point, North Efate, Vanuatu | +678 35600 | reservations@thehavannah.com | thehavannah.com

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Decor

Two of a Kind mask bottle opener by Kate Spade, $109, katespadehomegifts. com.au

Judith Gigliotti, Vicino Alla Roccia M80 photographic print, $299 - $499 onekingslane.com

Island

Home c ďŹ i c a P t e ec Olivia Waugh rounds up her picks for Pacific decorators from ceiling fans to champagne flutes.

iece Vintage LED globe by Coco Republic, $49, cocorepublic.com.au

All prices Australian dollars unless otherwise stated.

Simply sparkling flute pair by Kate Spade, $169, katespadehomegifts. com.au

Heaslip Rattan Bar Cart Parcini, $989 onekingslane.com

Island Style by India Hicks, $75, myislandhome.com.au

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Islander Palm Ceiling Fan, $425 onekingslane.com

Gubi - Adnet mirror, $1149, luumodesign.com

S/2 Large Labradoritte bookends, $139 onekingslane.com

Southern Komfort bed swing, $4755 - $5495, onekingslane.com

Teca Magazine rack by Sollos, $POA, dedece.com

Rya leather cushion by Country Road, $179, countryroad.com.au

Yellow linen blanket with top stitch, $199, zarahome.com.au Kreafunk - aMOVE bluetooth portable music player, $210, luumodesign.com

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Cardo s STEAKHOUSE & COCKTAIL BAR Port Denarau, Fiji

Open for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

Port Denarau Marina Complex, FIJI Phone (+679) 675 0900 Web www.cardosfiji.com 32 | Islandliving paciďŹ c

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Washed twill shirt, £25, topman.com

Embroidered T-shirt, £18, topman.com René Gruau: Portraits Of Men, $85.00, assouline.com

Man

Zebrano wood shave set, £425.00, czechandspeakefragrance.com

Stuff n e m r o f s must-have

All prices Australian dollars unless otherwise stated.

Olivia Waugh ventures into the menswear department to seek out the best buys for blokes.

The Hill-side® all weather hi tops $457.13, jcrew.com

Troubadour leather and fabric tech case, $156, farfetch.com Square flask, $69.91, jcrew.com Star lapel pin £7.50, topman.com

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Nick Fouquet L’Ile Moustique straw hat €585, adrianaonline.com

Armand Diradourian cashmere travel blanket, £438, mrporter.com

Frescobol Carioca Trancoso beach bats, $210, selfridges.com

Leica X Typ 113 compact camera $2,249.95, paxtons.com.au

Valentino swim shorts £325, matchesfashion.com

Hook on rope bracelet, $160.16, miansai.com Bang & Olufsen Beoplay H7 on-ear wireless bluetooth headphones, $487, farfetch.com

Hecho linen top, £195, matchesfashion.com M12 Swiss rose gold/ black watch, $516.87, miansai.com

Otis Batterbee grey tile mask £50, otisbatterbee.com Addidas Pogba limited edition football, $102, farfetch.com

Country Rd Jogger, $129, countryroad.com.au

islandliving | 35 paciﬁc

All prices Australian dollars unless otherwise stated.

Dior split mirrored aviator sunglasses US$473, matchesfashion.com

The Beach People harness towel carrier, $39, net-a-porter.com

RenĂŠ Gruau Cover for international textiles 1966 Galerie Bartsch & Chariau GmbH Price on Request, artnet.com

Mara Hoffman dress US$250, matchesfashion.com

The Sun

Set r e h r o f f f cool stu

Isa Arfen Arfen shorts, shorts, $487, $487, Isa matchesfashion.com matchesfashion.com

A cool tropical selection for those hot island days. By Olivia Waugh. Missoni Mare hat, $243USD, matchesfashion.com Nurse Jamie age delay pillow $98 matchesfashion.com

Elle MacPerson body bra, $84, net-a-porter.com 36 | Islandliving paciďŹ c

Alex Birman heels , $775.52, fwrd.com

L’agent by Agent Provocateur Taniia swimsuit, $170,

Mara Hoffman embroidered playsuit, $347, net-a-porter.com Emporio Armani trousers $394, farfetch.com

Isabel Marant Étoile Epipa sandals, $456, farfetch.com

Helmut Lang, top, US$468, matchesfashion.com

Sophie Anderson Adorada woven tote $235.00, selfridges.com

islandliving | 37 paciﬁc

Life is a collection of special moments Let Warwick Le Lagon be part of it Surrounded by natural beauty along the cobalt waters of Erakor Lagoon, Warwick Le Lagon - Vanuatu offers opportunities to create those special moments. Whether planning a relaxing holiday, romantic escape, wedding or conference, guests enjoy comfortable accommodation, exotic scenery, soothing spas, delectable cuisine and a host of activities suitable for all ages.

Warwick Le Lagon - Vanuatu, Elluk Road, Erakor Lagoon, Port Vila, Vanuatu D +678 22313 | info.lelagon@warwickhotels.com | warwickhotels.com/le-lagon-resort 38 | Islandliving paciďŹ c

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Magical Munda s n o m o l o S

Tiffany Carroll took time out to explore Munda in Solomon Islandsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Western Province. What she found was it was equally beautiful above the water as below.

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elinda Botha’s enthusiasm for Munda is infectious. As the operations manager for Solomon Island Dive Expeditions you expect her to be passionate about diving around Munda, but it’s the island itself she seems most in love with. Arriving at Munda airport is something out of the ordinary. The brand new runway is impressive and dwarfs the tiny timber building that poses as the airport terminal. Local Solomon Islanders wait behind a short fence, more out of interest than to actually collect family or friends. The ground is bright red and the foliage so green and lush it’s obvious they’ve had plenty of rain. This is the tropics. It’s remote, its raw and I’m excited to start exploring. “Welcome to magical Munda,” Belinda beams, placing fresh flower leis around our necks. “We’re so pleased you’re here, you’re going to have the best time.” The drive to Agnes Lodge is embarrassingly short – we could have easily walked, but glad for the comfort of the car to be honest. Betle nut stains are prominent on the road and there are people everywhere, selling fresh fruit and vegetables and, of course betle nut. Munda is a busy place, there aren’t a lot of cars but there are people walking all about. The ‘main street’ hosts a half dozen Chinese stores, a police station and a small guest house. Tourism is a fledgling industry here. Everywhere we would walk in the next two days we’d get curious looks and the friendly locals all seemed to want to talk to us. The Munda people are friendly and helpful, all offering directions but given the size of the town, I’m not sure how one would get lost. The Agnes Lodge is at the end of the road from the airport, right on the main wharf. The wharf is a hive of activity

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with local boats unloading cargo and loading passengers. A Solomon Island Navy boat is also moored alongside the jetty. We’re greeted with a friendly smile and apology for the hot weather and quickly shown to our comfortable air conditioned room. A quick shower and it’s to Belinda’s office just behind the guest rooms at Agnes for a dive briefing. She enthusiastically explains the dives on offer; there is everything from caves to shark dives, coral reefs and wrecks but she wants to know what else we’d like to see in Munda too. “It’s not just the diving that’s great here. There’s the WWII museum, the tuna factory, the markets. We have great bush walks...” We decide to leave our decision to the weather Gods and get an early night. Of course it poured with rain most of the night and the wind picked up too which meant many of the dives (I was particularly interested in diving with hammerhead sharks) would not be possible. Nevertheless we were off to cave-dive and the journey of about an hour would take us through some of the most spectacularly clear water in the world. The Cave of the Kastom Shark is accessed via a very short walk onto the island through mangroves. The entry is a pool about two metres wide, leading down a vertical shaft to two large chambers linked by a narrow tunnel. My dive guides deliver a very thorough safety briefing and I gear up and slip into the hole. There is a guide line throughout to help with navigation and torches are definitely required. There’s not a lot to see in the cave, the walls appear white and you swim through for around 10 minutes reaching a maximum depth of 35 meters. Finally there is light at the end of the tunnel – bright blue hues of that spectacular water the Solomons is famous for.

The reef wall offers schools of giant Bumphead Parrotfish and just one little reef shark but then a turtle appears ... and another one, and a third. The water is warm, the current light and I simply drift along the reef accompanied by the Parrotfish and looking out for pelagic species. It’s pretty and relaxing. If I had my choice I’d probably skip the cave and just do the reef wall next time. We return to the boat and head to a nearby island for a picnic of fresh fruit and sweet biscuits. The dive guides tell stories of village life in Solomon Islands and their favourite dive sites. After the necessary surface interval we’re back in the boat headed for another reef dive. This one would offer more turtles, two more reef sharks and loads of fish. The current is a little stronger and the reef more colourful than the first dive. Again it’s an easy dive, one you simply drift along with and totally chill out. On the way home we spot a pilot whale, more turtles and beautiful islands. We zig zag between islands to get home and I imagine running away from life for a year and living here. Local children run naked along the shore, waving and laughing. The housing is all on stilts and I wonder what their families do for work. No doubt it is subsitence farming, the gardens of root crops visible from our boat. Every now and then we pass another boat, a lone fisherman in a traditional dugout canoe. The water changes from iridescent blue to green and is crystal clear the whole way. This remote paradise is breath-taking. I’m not sure if the boat driver is taking the scenic route as we seem not to be following any plan and it’s just the way I like it. Three years ago I flew to Gizo (Munda’s near neighbour) and

The bright blue hues the Solomons are famous for.

hired a boat and driver from the jetty. Two days later I ended up in Munda and flew home besotted with the island nation. This time I’m traveling with a friend and she turns to me and simply says ‘where are we?’ I have no idea. But i think it’s close to heaven. Visitors to the Solomon Islands can dive the underwater WWII sites with live-aboard dive boat MV Taka or combine a trip with land based sister company Dive Munda. In Munda they can visit the Peter Joseph War Museum, and stay at the Agnes Gateway Hotel or Zipolo Habu Resort on nearby Lola Island. See: www.visitsolomons.com.sb

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Honiara’s Most Contemporary Boutique Resort

Privacy | Waterfront Villas | On-site Entertainment Our luxury waterfront villas are the perfect location for your next romantic retreat. Enjoy complete privacy and pristine water views. Our experienced and friendly staff offer a personalised service second to none. After a long day enjoying the islands, kick back and enjoy a sumptuous dining experience in one of our restaurants. ‘Haydn’s Steakhouse’ offers modern Australian and European cuisine. For a taste of the East, try ‘The Boardwalk’ which specialises in contemporary Chinese and Malaysian dishes. After a day exploring, relax with a cocktail by the pool or try your luck at the Casino.

Tandai Hwy, Town Ground, Honiara, Solomon Islands | T. +677 26 288 | E. reception@coral-sea-resort.com islandliving | 45 coral-sea-resort.com paciﬁc

46 | Islandliving paciďŹ c

Experience magical Munda at Agnes Gateway Hotel. Award winning service and pristine diving SSI instructor training centre WWII wrecks, caves and reefs – untouched and unspoilt divemunda@dive-solomon.com Find us on Twitter, Facebook + Instagram

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Adventures a o m a S in

Being extinct volcanoes, Samoa’s two islands share a landscape seemingly designed for adventure, as adventure-seeker Deborah Dickson-Smith recently found out. Its jungle clad volcanic slopes, rocky coastlines dotted with pristine beaches, surrounded by fringing coral reefs are simply begging you to choose your own adventure.

amoa is a landscape fashioned by water: streams rushing through the rainforest, towering waterfalls and deep sinkholes, where the freshwater has gouged a path to the ocean through underwater caves. So, whether you’re looking for saltwater adventure on the surf, snorkelling or diving in the deep blue, or freshwater adventure in the rainforests and waterfall pools – you’ve come to the right place. Add in friendly people, accommodation to suit every pocket and all you need is a hire car to turn that landscape into an expansive adventure playground.

PICTURE: Manoa Tours

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The best place to start your Samoan adventure is at the Visitor’s Bureau in Apia on Upolu – a great way to ease yourself into ‘Fa’a Samo’ – or ‘the Samoan Way’ – a community approach to doing things together with faith, family and music.

There’s a great cultural village show which includes really useful information for your adventure like how to weave your own plate from banana fronds and exactly where to hit a coconut to get at the cool refreshing drink inside. Other demonstrations include cooking, carving and weaving cloth all with an entertaining commentary covering everything from Samoan humour to village etiquette. (The cast of Survivor Samoa, would have been wise to drop by here.) The Visitor’s Bureau also has a wealth of touring maps and brochures you’ll need to explore the iconic features scattered over the two islands. You can start your underwater adventure in Apia too. Aquasamoa run trips daily out to the local reefs, taking qualified divers to explore new sites like Wilco’s Wardrobe, and for snorkelers and those who want to discover scuba diving, to sheltered and colourful coral reefs closer to shore. When you’re ready for your Samoan road trip head south first, up and over the Cross Island Road. As you approach

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the ridge that forms the backbone of Upolu, the vista of the south coast opens up before you and to your right is the view point of the Papapapaiuta waterfall – cascading one hundred metres down shear vertical volcanic cliffs. When you hit the southern coast, head east to the To Sua Ocean Trench – which translates as ‘big hole’ and at 30m deep it lives up to its name. Take in the view down from the cliff top, enjoy a picnic in the lush gardens and definitely take the plunge from the almost vertical ladder into the deep blue swimming hole. Continue east along the coast for as far as it goes and you’ll find yourself at the picturesque white sands of Lalomanu Beach, voted one of the Top Ten Beaches in the world. A great place to cool off before you take the 20-minute boat ride out to Namua

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Island where you can swim with turtles in their natural habitat. It’s well worth spending the night here at Taufua Beach Fales – little more than an elevated platform with a roof of woven banana leaves, where you can drop off to sleep to the sound of the gently lapping waves. Next day head west along the south coast to the ferry for Savai’i. There are no road signs on this road so you need to navigate by ticking off each village as you drive through, and remember to fill up at the only petrol station on the way. En route stop off to see the giant clams. These are in a village marine protected area, so visit Le Valasi Beach Fales to pay the entrance fee and get directions. A little further up the road is the Lalotalie River Retreat which offers guided rainforest hiking tours – from three to six hours depending on

PICTURES: Lea Marie Bach

The The ladder ladder down down to to the the To To Sua Sua Ocean Ocean Trench Trench on on Upolo, Upolo, about about an an hour’s hour’s drive drive from from Apia. Apia.

Meeting friendly turtles with Dive Savai’i on Samoa’s big island.

how adventurous you’re feeling. From Falease’ela to the ferry wharf at Multifanua is just 15km. The ferries run regularly arriving in Savai’i at Salelologa and the trip takes just 90 minutes.

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Savai’i is known as ‘the big island’ but at just 30km across it’s easily circumnavigated. Surfers will find the best breaks at Aganoa Beach – 7km from Salelologa – where depending on the swell, you can surf or SUP, snorkel with turtles, or simply enjoy a peaceful paddle in a kayak. From here, take the long way (clockwise) around the island along the southern ocean road and enjoy a superb scenic drive.

Be sure to stop off and admire the view from the rainforest canopy walkway in Falealupo and further along, check out the lava fields where lava from the most recent eruptions has made its way slowly to the ocean before solidifying into fields of dense black rock. If you feel the need to cool off along the way, Asau Bay has some of the best snorkelling around. Va-i-moana Seaside Lodge is the perfect place to stop over and you can explore the whole bay in one of their kayaks. The short drive to Fagamalo takes you through the A’opo Conservation Area, one of the largest intact areas of tropical rainforest in Polynesia. Depending on how adventurous you’re feeling you can organise a two day trek to the top of Mt Silisili, Samoa’s highest peak at 1,858m, spend several

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Samoaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s resorts range from budget-backpackers to luxurious. From Coconuts Beach Club (above) to the Savaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ian Hotel (below).

White sand beaches, quirky bars such as the Home Cafe (right) and kids selling coconuts by the roadside near Fagamalo (below right), Samoa is organic, authentic Polynesia.

hours exploring the lava tube caves or if you’re feeling less adventurous, take a stroll through the local family plantation and native forests where flying foxes roost. Dive Savai’i in Fagamalo have a big covered boat that goes out into the local lagoon most days and everybody’s welcome. Don’t worry if you don’t dive, there’s plenty to see snorkelling and if you want to do a Discover Scuba introduction dive they can arrange that too. You’ll be surprised how much there is to see in one lagoon: an entire wreck, reef walls, and a shelving reef slope where you might catch a turtle napping or munching on the sponges. If you haven’t already experienced a Fiafia Night on the trip so far, Le Lagoto is the perfect spot to enjoy the sunset with a cool drink, followed by this traditional Samoan dance and feast. As the sky turns orange, torches are lit along the beach and frenetic drumming heralds the start of festivities: an impressive display of fire dancing accompanying drums, followed by a traditional Samoan feast – with Samoan-sized servings – so bring an appetite, your friends, take your time and enjoy it ‘the Samoan Way’. So whether you’re after hard core or soft core adventures, rainforest or reef adventures, there are plenty to choose from in Samoa. For more information: www.samoa.travel

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Superfood Skincare T

he old adage ‘we are what we eat’ has never been more relevant to our health than it is now, everyone from Paleo pusher Pete Evans who proclaims ‘food is medicine!’ to your local GP agrees that eating well is beneficial to our health and wellbeing, but it is also relevant to our beauty routine. Beauty these days is less about slapping products on to mask imperfections and more about looking the best we can, caring for ourselves so that our skin glows, hair shines and the dreaded ageing process is slowed as much as possible. Lee Holmes author of Eat Yourself Beautiful (Murdoch Books) says, “If you’re eating a diet which includes fresh and unprocessed foods, you’ll notice improvements in your external appearance. Eating real food provides you with the right nutrients to improve your health and give you more energy, which shows externally. Another key driver to having a healthy body and long term beauty and longevity is the importance of normalising your insulin and leptin levels, two fundamental hormones. If you consume too many inflammatory ingredients such as sugar it can lead to premature aging and age-related chronic degenerative diseases such as heart disease and diabetes.”

With this is mind we’ve all got our nutribullets at the ready to blitz and consume as many superfood, nutrient dense, leafy green, in every colour in the rainbow foods that we can fit in a smoothie cup. There’s no getting away from the buzzword superfood, the definition according to The Oxford Dictionary is ‘a nutrient rich food considered to be especially beneficial for health and wellbeing’ and everything from the coconut to the humble tomato has been awarded the title. So we know they work their magic on our bodies internally but what about externally? Beauty brands are increasingly taking these foods out of our salad bowls and putting them into their products, it comes with a move toward more natural beauty products in general as we become more aware or at least more suspicious of what harm chemicals can cause. And there is genuine cause for concern, for example 1,4-dioxane is found in many cleansing products, it is a known carcinogen however you won’t find it on any ingredient labels as it is

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Eat yourself beautiful is the new mantra for anyone who wants healthy, glowing skin which hasn’t been smothered in chemical masks and potions, Georgie Gordon fires up her nutri-bullet and applies a smoothie to her skin.

a contaminant that is created when common chemical ingredients react when mixed together. Sylvie Hutchings created her organic skincare brand Scout Cosmetics because she wanted to know exactly what was going onto her skin. “Most people forget skin is the largest organ in the body, the ingredients within any skincare or makeup product are getting absorbed and chemical toxins are very destructive whereas natural products, including natural plant and fruit extracts have nutritional value that help to support the skin. All the ingredients I use have been researched to ensure they repair, refine, and rejuvenate skin without potentially harmful side effects.”

So what superfoods should you be putting on your skin? It depends what result you are after but anything with high levels of Vitamin C is going to act as a good anti-oxidant agent for smoother looking skin and anything with antiinflammatory properties will help to eliminate patchy spots and redness. So, if you are someone who worries about what they put into your body a move towards more natural skincare is certainly worth some thought and next time you’ve got the nutribullet out you might want to consider saving some of that smoothie for your skin. For hydration is hard to go past nature’s moisturiser, coconut oil, it contains a huge amount of fatty acids which deeply hydrate and condition the skin, try Natural Fiji’s Natural Coconut Body Oil (left), the fragrance free formulation provides all the benefits without leaving your skin feeling greasy and it’s gentle enough to use on your face too. Scout Cosmetics are available from scoutcosmetics.com and Natural Fiji products from naturalfiji.com.au

Blueberries are filled with anti-oxidants, honey is antibacterial and you don’t have to eat them to get the benefits. This super simple mask means they go directly into your skin. Try sourcing local honey for added health benefits, too, such as relieving hay fever. Ideally you want fresh blueberries, but you can also make this using frozen and thawed fruit. 100g fresh blueberries 2 tablespoons raw honey 2 tablespoons raw or coconut sugar Put all the ingredients in a small food processor and blend until smooth. Add a generous layer to your clean face and let it soak into your skin for 15 minutes. Rinse clean with warm water. I would recommend making this and using it straight away or within a few days. Store in the fridge if not applying immediately and use once or twice a week. Makes 1-2 applications. Recipe extract from The Art of the Natural Home by Rebecca Sullivan (Simon & Schuster)

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The Good Oil on fat

here’s a funny cartoon making its way around the internet that depicts one avocado running after another (upset) avocado saying ‘I said you were the good kind of fat!’. Funny because it demonstrates that we still find it hard to get our heads around the fact that there are any ‘good’ types of fat, and funny because avocados can’t talk. It’s hard to keep up with what is ‘good’ food these day. Sugar, fat and carbohydrates; they’ve all had a rough trot and been deemed unhealthy or something we should just consume in moderation. However, fat has probably been the most demonised, for a long time we were led to believe that eating fat not only made us put on weight but that it was the cause of serious health concerns such as high cholesterol, blood pressure and even heart disease. Now there is evidence that not only are some types of fat good for us but they are essential to our health and wellbeing and that they can even help us lose weight. Quite the turnaround. Put simply, the good fats are unsaturated and include omega-3s (eg. fatty fish, flaxseed, walnuts) and monounsaturated fats (eg. olive oil, avocados, pumpkin seeds, almonds) and the bad are trans fats, it’s the artificial kind found in a lot of processed food that we need to avoid (eg. packaged crackers, cookies and margarine). The contentious fats are saturated (butter, animal fat, palm oil), there is a lot of scientific research to show that eating saturated fat is not nearly bad as all the food pyramids and guidelines we grew up with have led us to believe, however they are high in kilojoules so moderation is required. Fat is an essential part of our diet, our body needs it for energy, to support cell growth, to carry vitamins into our bloodstream, to help us produce important hormones, protect our organs and keep us warm. As the debate continues on whether saturated fat, rich dairy products and red meat etc. are a source of good fat for us, the following is a variety of high fat foods that there’s no denying the health benefits for:

Eggs have had a bad rap in the past as the yolk has quite a high fat content and they were not recommended for people with high cholesterol, however the tide has turned there, even

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Walnuts

One of the best sources of plant based omega-3 fatty acids walnuts are up there with almonds as one the healthiest nuts around. Research shows that eating a small amount every day can actually lower cholesterol levels, they also great for heart health with anti-inflammatory properties that reduce the risk of blood clots and they’re high in powerful antioxidants.

Salmon

Salmon and other oily fish like sardines and tuna are the best way get a dose of essential omega-3s. Salmon is also a great source of protein, high in B vitamins, potassium and selenium which helps protect bone health.

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Chocolate with a high cocoa content is surprisingly nutritious, it contains healthy fats and a range of vitamins and minerals. It’s strong antioxidant properties fight against cancer causing free radicals and it even contains fibre. A high kilojoule and caffeine content make it strictly to be enjoyed in moderation though.

The word superfood gets bandied about a lot these days but these tiny seeds are worthy of the title. They come from the Salvia Hispanica plant (a relation to mint) and are incredibly high in omega-3s and fibre and are an excellent source of protein. Great for heart and brain function and a raft of other health benefits.

This wonder oil is rich in essential omega-3s and also healthy monounsaturated fats that reduce inflammation in the body. A major player in the Mediterranean diet which was developed after studies showed that Mediterranean populations, despite their high dietary fat intake mainly in the form of olive oil, have low rates of certain types of cancers, cardiovascular disease and an increased life expectancy.

It’s amazing how much goodness is packed into this little seed, the healthy fats aid in hormone balance and cardiovascular health and some of their many other nutrients include E and B vitamins, folate, and a high amount of protein.

And lastly, back to our friends in the cartoon, the majority of fat in an avocado is monounsaturated – great for heart health and for lowering blood pressure and cholesterol. They are also a rich source of Vitamin E, high in potassium and loaded with fibre.

PICTURE: Alena Brozova / 123RF

Listen to your avocado says Georgie Gordon because it's talking big fat sense. Yes, there are good fats, and not only that, the good ones are essential to your wellbeing.

the Australian Heart Foundation says ‘the cholesterol in eggs has almost no effect on our blood cholesterol levels’. Of the total fat content only a small amount is saturated and they full of omega-3s, incredibly nutritious they contain quality protein and 11 different vitamins and minerals.

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Guam

A Leap Of Love

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alt!” the captain yelled, but the couple only ran faster, away from the pursuing Spanish soldiers and the enraged officer. In their bare feet, they scaled the jagged limestone and hauled each other up the steep slopes and through the thick undergrowth until they reached the top. They stood for a moment, breathless, their chests heaving, appealing to each other with a long yearning stare. At first, eyes wide in panic then, as their breath returned and their gaze locked on each other, their fear subsided. As if lifted by unseen angels, the terror of the chase vanished and they held each other in a long embrace. A gust of sea air rushed up the cliff, caught her long hair and swirled it around like a silken banner. “Stop! I have orders to shoot,” the captain shouted again, furious at their defiance and the exhausting climb to the top of the cliff, but their eyes remained steadfast on each other. The young fugitive reached behind her, his thickly muscled and tattooed arm gently gathered up her hair and tied it in a knot to his own. They whispered something, held each other even tighter and leapt. The legend of the two lovers of Tumon Bay is an enduring Guamanian folk tale with several versions, but each rendering ends with the couple sealing their fate on the rocks below. A concrete lookout and statue commemorate their final act of devotion and busloads of tourists visit Two Lovers Point every day. Thousands of multi-coloured luggage tags are affixed to

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a mesh screen, each declaring someone’s perpetual love for another and a special outdoor chapel is well used by the many Japanese newlyweds making up most of the visitors. Guam, part of the Marianas, is the largest and most populous island in Micronesia with some 180,000 residents. Roughly one third call themselves ‘Chamorro’ (indigenous Guamanian), while the remainder comprise Filipino (25%), other Pacific Islanders (11%) and the rest Asian and Caucasian. Politically, Guam is an unincorporated organised territory of the US, a status it shares with Puerto Rico. Strategically important, the US military maintain large naval and air force bases. At just 4.5 hours by 737 directly north from Cairns, Guam was once served by an American airline which withdrew services to Australia last year. Guam has been something of a tourism blind spot for most Australians since then, however Nauru Airlines, the airline of the central Pacific recently announced flights from Australia to Guam would recommence. Guam serves as a hub for the wider region and flights leave every day to the other Micronesian islands of Saipan, Rota, Yap, Palau, Truk, Pohnpei, Kwajalein, Kosrae and Majuro. Apart from their two-year occupation of Guam during WWII, the Japanese connection with the island is still strong. Japanese tourists dominate the 1.2 million annual visitors (over 70%), daylight second, then Koreans (13%), Americans, Taiwanese and the rest, including the roughly 4000

PICTURES: Roderick Eime and NASA

An old folk legend of the Pacific explains an ancient people’s love of their land. By Roderick Eime

The scene of the lovers’ pact; Two Lovers Point at Tumon Bay

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Australians. The Hyatt, Hilton, Sheraton, Nikko and Pacific Island Club are all majority Japanese owned. As a curious sidebar, one Japanese soldier was found in 1972, still refusing to surrender. Sgt. Shoichi Yokoi was the last survivor of a group of 10 so-called ‘holdouts’ who had taken to the jungle after the Allied invasion in 1944. A replica of his cave has been built on the original site at Talofofo Falls Resort Park. To date, most Australian leisure travellers transit through Guam to access the rich scuba diving locations throughout Micronesia like Palau, Yap, Truk and Kosrae. The worldrenown marine biodiversity and abundance of unplundered WWII shipwrecks make the entire region a magnet for serious divers from all over the world.

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The Chamorro (or Chamoru) people of Guam first arrived in the Marianas about 4000 years ago from Southeast Asia and share ethnic roots with other Austronesians such as Filipinos, Indonesians and Malaysians. Their language too is from the Malayo-Polynesian family that accounts for the vast majority of Pacific Islanders. “Hafa Adai!” (half a day) is a common, if peculiar-sounding greeting that you will hear all over Guam. Opened at Gun Beach, at the northernmost point of Tumon Bay, is the Lina’la’ Cultural Park, a recreation of a Chamorro village styled on pre-contact designs of 500 years ago. Based on the popular concept seen throughout the Pacific and SE Asia, you meet Chamorro people living and working much as Ferdinand Magellan found them in 1521. In fact, during the excavation and building of the site, progress was interrupted while archaeologists were called in to identify and catalogue the growing number of artefacts turning up. Now these finds form part of the display in the small museum on site. Chief Ben ‘Lam Lam’ San Nicolas greets guests wearing little more than his forebears would have worn all those centuries ago. “Hafa Adai!” he bellows in local fashion. In authoritative style, Ben teaches visitors a little about local traditions and handicrafts, history and culture. The handful of thatchedroofed structures are built on the ‘latte’ stone foundations which are common throughout the island and now serve as a national symbol. There’s a guma’ uritao, or men’s house and a central cooking house contains a chahan, or pit, where root vegetables and fish were cooked atop fiery rocks and covered with leaves. Coconuts (niyok) were abundant on the island then as they are now and guests can try their hand at a traditional coconut grater with a sharp clamshell. Ben is no actor or choreographed tour guide, he is the real deal and takes his cultural duties seriously. “We learn from the past to live in the present to build a future for all generations,” he says earnestly to a few guests who have stayed back after the crowd has left. Five centuries have seen his people transformed from a simple and sustainable island existence to a westernised, Christian population irretrievably altered by exposure to the world’s influences. 64 | Islandliving paciﬁc

Above: The beach at Ritidian Point is the northernmost point of the

Soon after the arrival of the Spanish missionaries and military in 1668, the predictable onset of diseases occurred, ravaging the population. Furthermore, zealous Catholic clergy actively stifled the Chamorro culture and publicly punished those caught practising their old ‘pagan’ ways. Perhaps the modern adaptation of the ancient Two Lovers tale, where an enraged Spanish officer pursues the couple to their defiant death, signifies the Chamorro’s steadfast will and adherence to tradition. On the beach below those frightening cliffs is a cave where two giant sandstone monoliths recline as if in repose, together forever in the land they love.

island of Guam. It is owned by the US Fish and Wildlife Service which administers the area as part of the Guam National Wildlife Refuge.

Left: Love locks and luggage tags commemorate loversâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; visits to Two Lovers Point which is somethimg of a shrine particualrly for Japanese honeymooners. Above: Guam from outer space, NASA Earth Observatory photo from a satellite.

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Pastimes

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On The Hook

Country girl Tiffany Carroll admits to being a little inept when it comes to game fishing but that doesn’t stop her getting hooked in Nauru where the experts claim you’re guaranteed success.

or a country girl, I’ve always had a pretty weak stomach. Memories of upending the worm bucket on a summer river fishing trip ensured I would never be invited back again. Years later, on my very first trip to Nauru I was told the island nation had some of the best sport and game fishing in the world. You’re all but guaranteed to catch a marlin, they told me. “Maybe next time,” was always my response. If I couldn’t handle worms being put on a hook, how was I going to go on the high seas fishing for the kings of the ocean? But this time, my fifth visit to Nauru I’d run out of excuses. Equatorial Game Fishing Charters, part of the Capelle and Partner conglomerate is operated by the Oppenheimer family. This long term Nauruan/Irish family is well regarded on the island, with patriarch Sean recently being elected to parliament in Nauru. Sean’s eldest son Kenneth has taken the reigns of the charter business and is doing so with a stride and a smile. “Okay Kenneth, it’s time for me to see what you’ve been on about,” I said on arrival to Nauru. Before I could find my sea legs, the boats were polished and prepared and I was headed for the equator. “We normally fish on Sundays – my only day off,” Kenneth said. “But for special charters, I’m happy to go out,” he said with a cheeky grin. Nauruans are known for their fishing skills, the island nation has very little vegetation (with the exception of a new hydroponic business featured elsewhere in Pacific Island Living) so the locals have been casting lines for years. The waters are supposedly full of sport and game fish and with the depth dropping down to over 2000m just 50m from shore, tales of catching tuna from the mainland are believable.

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On the Saturday we went out, Kenneth and his team of jovial deckhands had loaded the boats full of refreshments, sunscreen and state of the art fishing equipment. Professional fisherman Danial would be our guide, preparing gear and reassuring us we were in good hands. Danial fishes seven days a week and there’s rarely a day he doesn’t catch ‘the big one’. Deckhand George, a super fit and super cheeky Nauruan was quick with a drink and to take over the line when it got too much for our inexperienced hands. Later in the day he showed us the ‘jigging’ technique of fishing. I must admit I thought he was having a lend of us at the time, but later found jigging to be a tried and tested method of fishing that whilst looking rather ridiculous, actually works. Jigging is the practice of fishing with a jig, a type of fishing lure. A jig consists of a lead sinker with a hook molded into it and usually covered by a soft body to attract fish. Jigs are intended to create a jerky, vertical motion, as opposed to spinnerbaits which move through the water horizontally. The 6.2m Bar Crusher (Big day out) and 7m Australian Master Marine (True Blue) boats both comfortably carry five fishermen each. Equatorial Game Fishing can arrange full catering, or you can bring your own snacks and drinks. Today we were chasing Yellowfin tuna, Sailfish and Marlin. The latter two would prove elusive but the tuna were biting. In just four hours my colleague Rebecca had hooked several tuna and whilst she was delighted with the results, Kenneth and the crew seemed disappointed. “Sorry we couldn’t get a marlin for you,” they said. It didn’t bother us at all. All fish caught are eaten, no species goes to waste and the crew is diligent in ensuring small catch are returned to the sea. During our trip we stayed at Capelle’s Ewa Lodge, a purpose built guesthouse for fishermen and women, business travelers and visitors to Nauru. Rooms range from oversized fully self-contained apartments to smaller business rooms. With back-up generators and the island’s best water pumps, guests are assured of getting home from a hot day at work (or fishing) to a cold beer in the fridge, a hot shower and welcome air conditioning. The Lodge is located behind Capelle and Partner supermarket, which has recently expanded to include a Bakers Delight standard bakery, café, bottle shop and Digicel outlet. Full and half-day charters are available and packages to Nauru including fishing, flights and accommodation at Ewa Lodge are available through Nauru Airlines.

Equatorial Fishing Charters offer the best boats and crew in Nauru. George (above left) keeps an eye out for seabirds; Kenneth (above right) prepares the boats and finally Danial (below) share’s Rebecca’s joy at her first fish of the day.

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Island Cuisine a c ﬁ i c a P n i h c n u l the long

From a tall ship to a waterside restaurant, Fiji and Vanuatu have the perfect long lunches.

ou can’t get much better than an afternoon spent on an island paradise in the middle of the magnificent Mamanuca Islands in Fiji. Add to that a beautiful cruise and a Lazy Lunch and it’s the perfect afternoon. Captain Cook Cruises Fiji operates the Lazy Lunch Cruise departing daily from Denarau Marina at 12.30pm and returning at 6.00pm. Set sail aboard tall ship Spirit of the Pacific to the exclusive island of Tivua – an atoll surrounded by a circle of white sandy beach and 500 acres of coral gardens. After experiencing a traditional welcome Kava ceremony on board, on arrival at Tivua guests will enjoy a delicious tropical buffet lunch including fish, chicken, sausages, salads and fruit. Beer, wine and soft drinks are also included and available all afternoon on the island. After lunch spend the afternoon snorkelling the magnificent reefs, go glass bottom boating, kayak or paddle board around the island, play some volleyball, feed the fish or take part in coconut husking, weaving and Lali beating demonstrations. Diving lovers can choose to dive at several sites around Tivua with five star PADI Diving. From beautiful coral gardens to bommies to its newest dive wreck, ‘Raiyawa’, Tivua has A complimentary Captain Kid’s Club is available for 90 minutes during the afternoon and includes special activities

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enough to captivate the beginners, reinvigorate the occasional diver, and fascinate the advanced divers. Those who prefer to simply relax can lie on the beach on a enough to captivate the beginners, reinvigorate the occasional diver, and fascinate the advanced divers. Those who prefer to simply relax can lie on the beach on a comfy beanbag in a beach hut, take a leisurely swim, sleep on a hammock, have their hair braided or indulge in a spa treatment. A complimentary Captain Kid’s Club is available for 90 minutes during the afternoon and includes special activities

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The 80-room Ramada is Vanuatu’s newest resort, located just five minutes from the heart of Port Vila and 15 minutes from Bauerfield airport the Ramada offers guests fabulous unobstructed views of the sandy white beaches and turquoise waters of the Erakor lagoon. But that’s not all, the Aririki Restaurant is now a hot spot for the capital’s diners with menu offerings good enough to tempt guests and vistors alike. For sarters try Chaud Froid de Thon aux 5 Epice, Chutney de fruits frais (hot and cold tuna with fresh fruit chutney) or Soupe de Crevettes Parfum d’Asie (Thai coconut prawns soup, red curry, lemongrass) and follow up with Filet de Poisson Selon la Pêche (fish fillet from the fisherman, vanilla sauce and sautéed vegetables) or go for the renowned Vanuatu beef as in Filet de Bœuf au Poivre du Vanuatu or for something fishy the Poulet Fish Façon Thaï (poulet fish Thai style, poached and perfumed with ginger and green onion, sesame oil). Then get tempted by the dessert list which includes Mousse Passion

like Treasure Hunts, Sand Castle building and fun kid’s games. The Lazy Lunch cruise is priced at FJ$187 per adult and FJ$123 per child (3-15 years). Prices include tall ship transfers to and from Tivua Island, Tropical buffet lunch, afternoon tea, beer, wine and soft drinks on Tivua, use of snorkelling gear, kayaks, stand-up paddle boards, beach hammocks and volleyball, guided coral viewing on glass bottom boat, coconut husking, weaving and Lali beating demonstrations, Captain’s Kids Club and transfers from Nadi and Denarau hotels and Coral Coast hotels for a small additional charge. For further information and bookings visit www.captaincookcruisesfiji.com

and Chocolat au lait (passionfruit and milk chocolate mousse, sweet and bitter) and Tiramisu Glacé (iced tiramisu, our way). Prices are surprisingly reasonable with entrees starting at VT1500, mains from VT2200 and all desserts VT1100. Be among the first to try this French/Asian influenced Pacific fare.

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. . . y a s You

“TOMATO” And Christiana Kaluscha says “I can’t wait!” It’s tomato season in the Pacific with the Suva, Honiara and Port Vila markets in particular overflowing with scarlet goodness and a variety for every recipe.

very year I desperately look forward to the tomato season, when the local market stalls are filled with organically grown, sun-ripened tomatoes with their bright red colour and sweet and gently tangy flavour, from tiny cherry tomatoes to the huge fleshy ox heart or beefsteak ones. A member of the nightshade family (along with aubergines, peppers and chillies), tomatoes are in fact a fruit, but their affinity for other savoury ingredients means they are usually classed as a vegetable. Tomatoes and their use as a food originated in Central America, crossed the Atlantic to Spain with the conquistadors in the 16th century but only finally caught on in northern Europe in the 19th century. The Nahuatl (Aztec language) word ‘tomatl’ gave rise to the Spanish word ‘tomate’, from which the English word ‘tomato’ originates. The Mexicans call it ‘tomatillo’, the Italians ‘pomodoro’ (apple of gold) and in the Austrian and Bavarian dialect it is similarly called ‘Paradeisapfel’ (apple of paradise). The scientific name lycopersicum means ‘wolf peach’, and comes from German werewolf myths. These legends said that deadly nightshade was used by witches and sorcerers in potions to transform themselves into werewolves, so the

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tomato’s similar but much larger fruit, was called the wolf peach when it arrived in Europe. Today they’re one of the most important ingredients available and are especially indispensible in Mediterranean cookery. The skin, flesh and seeds can all be eaten, but the green leaves are toxic, so should always be discarded. When buying tomatoes, choose the best! Go for firm tomatoes with wrinkle-free skins and a noticeable tomato smell. Tomatoes have the best, sweetest flavour if they’ve been allowed to ripen on the vine before they’ve been picked but, if you buy under-ripe tomatoes, you can redden them by keeping them in a brown paper bag at room temperature. The type of tomato you buy depends on what you intend to do with it. There are thousands of different types, but here are some of the most common types. Cherry: small and very sweet with intense flavour. They are good in salads, pasta sauces or roasted. Plum or Roma: Available as a baby or full-grown tomato, plum tomatoes have an oval shape, with a rich flavour and comparatively few seeds. Good for making sauces and stews. Medium round tomatoes: also known as salad tomatoes

PICTURE: Christiana Kaluscha.

“There “There are are many many ways ways to to use use tomatoes. tomatoes. Raw Raw in in salads, salads, roasted roasted whole, whole, halved halved and and grilled, grilled, sliced sliced and and fried fried or or use use itit in in sauces, sauces, stews, stews, soups soups and and

salsas. Tomato juice is a popular drink and used in cocktails such as Bloody Mary.”. Above: Tomato stalls at the Port Vila harbourfront market.

are good all-rounders in the kitchen. Ox heart or beefsteak: these are the biggest tomatoes, and have a meaty texture with a sweet, mellow flavour. They are good for salads, grilling or stuffing. Green: there are two types of green tomato. One is unripe, and is quite tart but good for chutneys, or frying. The other is a variety that stays green when ripe (often labelled Kumato), has a tangy flavour and is good in salads or, again, fried. Yellow: these ripen to a golden yellow colour, and are good in salads, salsas and chutneys. Storage: Chilling tomatoes mutes their flavour so, unless they are very ripe, they should be stored at room temperature. If you won’t be eating ripe tomatoes for a couple of days, put them in the fridge in a perforated bag, but take them out of the fridge for about 30 minutes before eating, so that they can warm up. Preparation: Wash, and then leave whole or halve, quarter, slice, chop or dice, as required. If you want to remove the skins before making them into a sauce, cut out the green stalk and core at the top of the tomato, cut a small, shallow cross at its base, then put them in bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave to stand for 20 seconds, then

drain. When they are cool enough to handle, pull away the loosened skin. Tomatoes are also available tinned and if they are not in season and are best used for cooking. Cooking:There are many ways to use tomatoes. Raw in salads, roasted whole, halved and grilled, sliced and fried or used in sauces, stews, soups and salsas. Tomato juice is a popular drink and used in cocktails such as Bloody Mary. Here are some of my favourite recipes:

Tarte aux tomates et a la moutarde (Tomato and mustard pie) This tarte is a dish from Lyon, which is considered the gastronomic capital of the world. It is a typical Lyonnais dish and one of my favourites during the tomato season.

Ingredients

• Unsweetened shortcrust

pastry • 1/2 cup Dijon mustard • 2 -3 large ripe ox heart tomatoes, sliced 0.5 cm thick • slices ruyere cheese, about 0.5 cm thick • 1 tablespoon olive oil, or as needed

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Sugo di pomodoro (Tomato sauce)

• 2 tablespoons Herbes de Provence • Fresh basil leaves

Method

• Preheat oven to 190 degrees C. Fit the short crust pastry into a 23 cm pie dish. With a fork, poke holes into the bottom of the crust. • Spread the mustard over the bottom of the piecrust in an even layer. • Cover the mustard with the Swiss cheese in a layer.

• Arrange slices of tomato, overlapping in a spiral from the edge to the centre, covering the cheese. • Drizzle olive oil over the tomatoes, and sprinkle the tart with the Herbes de Provence. • Bake in the preheated oven until the crust has browned, the cheese has melted, and the tomatoes are curled at the edges, about 20 minutes. • Decorate with fresh basil leaves

Caprese with Balsamic reduction Tomatoes, fresh mozzarella (if possible di buffalo), and basil drizzled with a sweet balsamic glaze and olive oil. Easy, impressive and delicious!

Ingredients

• Balsamic glaze (available in deli stores) • 3 large tomatoes, cut into 1 cm slices • 450 g Mozzarella di Buffalo, or fresh mozzarella • 1/4 teaspoon salt • 1/4 teaspoon ground black

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pepper • ½ cup fresh basil leaves • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Method

• Arrange alternate slices of tomato and mozzarella cheese decoratively on a serving platter. • Sprinkle with salt and black pepper • Spread fresh basil leaves over the salad, and drizzle with olive oil and the balsamic glaze.

This is my version of the classic Italian sugo di pomodoro. It is handy to have standing by for use in many recipes. I make it in big quantities and preserve it in sterilized jars or freeze it in portions. With some small variations it makes a great tomato soup, pasta sauce, I also use it for Parmigiana di Melanzane (Eggplant Parmigiana), pizza and much more. If the tomatoes are not in season, use Italian canned tomatoes which have the full ﬂavour of sun ripened tomatoes and are perfect for this recipe.

Ingredients

• 3 kg ripe Roma tomatoes, peeled or 3 x 450 g cans of peeled tomatoes and 3 x 450 g cans of crushed tomatoes. • 1 head of garlic, peeled and crushed • 1 big onion, diced • 1 sachet of tomato paste

• ¼ cup olive oil • 5 anchovies • Couple of hot chillies or more to taste, seeded and ﬁnely sliced • 1 cup fresh basil leaves • 1 Tsp. dried oregano • 1 Tbsp. of chicken stock powder or more to taste • 1 Tbsp. sugar • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Method

• Heat the olive oil in a casserole, add the onions and garlic and stir until sautéed but not browned • Add the tomatoes, chilli, oregano, tomato paste, anchovies and chicken powder and sugar and stir well • Simmer for 40 minutes • Add salt and pepper to taste • Tear and add the basil leaves • Use as a pasta sauce. Or cool and store in 500 ml containers and freeze.

(Roma preferred) • small courgettes • 2 small aubergines • 3 onions, roughly chopped • 1 chilli (optional) • 5 garlic cloves, roughly chopped • 1 yellow pepper • 1 red pepper • 1 green pepper • 1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped • 1 bay leaf • 1 Tsp. ﬁne sugar • ¼ cup olive oil • Salt and pepper • Fresh basil or parsley to garnish

Method

Ratatouille Nicoise Ratatouille is a true classic of French cooking, a traditional dish from Nice in the South of France. It’s name comes from the verbs tatouiller and ratouiller, which both have their root in the verb touiller, meaning ‘to stir up’, because this is what you do when making ratatouille. Tomatoes are one of the star ingredients and when they are at their best the markets are full of delicious summer vegetables which together make this colourful vegetable stew, simple, rustic but really delicious. It is the quality of the tomatoes that makes the difference, which is why it is so important to make this dish at the peak of the season, when tomatoes are ripe and sweet. The key is to simmer it for at least 1 hour uncovered and let the flavours develop. The longer it cooks the better it is and it is even better reheated. I like to add a dash of balsamic glaze before

serving, but that is up to you. Enjoy it with a nice loaf of Pain de Campagne or serve it with fish or grilled meat. You can eat it warm or cold, which makes it perfect for summer barbecues.

Ingredients

• 1 kg ripe tomatoes, peeled

Prepare the vegetables • Wash the peppers, seed them and cut into small cubes • Peel and dice the aubergines, sprinkle with salt and set aside • Take out the seedy part of the courgettes and cut into 1 cm rings • Make incisions on the top of the tomatoes, drop them for 20 seconds into boiling water, drain, peel,

cut in half, take out the seeds and cut them into quarters Cooking the vegetables • Heat ½ the olive oil in a thick-bottomed casserole • Add the zucchinis and aubergines and sauté for 5 minutes or until golden, stirring all the time. Set aside. • Add the other ½ of the olive oil to the casserole; add the garlic, chilli, peppers and onions. Stir and cook for 10 minutes. • Add the tomatoes and mix well. Cook for 10 minutes stirring regularly, before adding the zucchinis and aubergines. • Season with salt and pepper. • Add the chopped herbs, the bay leaf and the sugar, and simmer uncovered on low heat for 1 hour. • Sprinkle with fresh basil leaves or parsley before serving

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Kiribati s d n a l s i e r u t n e v ad From the air, Kiribati is simply stunning. On the ground, friendly people, a strong culture and pristine water awaits you. May to December is the best time of year to island hop around Kiribati.

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The island nation of Kiribati, comprising 33 atolls, straddles the equator, stretching 3235 kilometres across the Pacific Ocean. With traditions and culture thriving and visitors regarded as a curiosity, it is the Pacific of yesteryear. South Tarawa is the urban hub of the nation with a large concentration of the population crammed into rows of houses squeezed together. Land is scarce here, the lagoon suffering under the weight of people, but this is where government and commercial activity is focused, where the hustle and bustle of Kiribati prevails. Venture away from south Tarawa and you escape this commotion, finding the unspoilt tranquillity of north Tarawa. To visit only south Tarawa is to miss the gentler side of Kiribati, the Kiribati where time flows with the moon and tides. Located on Abatao in north Tarawa, our family homestay accommodation is delightful. The road halts abruptly at a passageway between the ocean and lagoon. A prompting whistle and a motorised canoe emerges from across the water to ferry us to the other side. During the new moon, the crossing is magical as phosphorescence lights a trail behind us, swirling round our feet in the water; a step in the wet sand stirs a shower of phosphorescent dust. Our guesthouse looks over the lagoon. A raised floor, roof of pandanus leaves and a mattress. Woven palm shutters keep out the rain, the lagoon breeze provides natural air conditioning! Home for a while. Privacy is pretty much nonexistent but it all adds to the Kiribati charm. It is quite normal to wake up, see several pairs of eyes staring back from beyond our feet, hear a shy ‘Mauri’ and

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then children running away giggling! The bathroom is shared and the toilet has built in entertainment as hermit crabs scurry around our feet. Meals are local food; pancakes made with ‘toddy’ served with coconut syrup; fish, rice, breadfruit, pandanus and coconut. Sunset over the lagoon is spectacular with a ball of fire resting on the horizon, the sky blazing with shades of orange, red, pink, purple. Serenity – apart from the lapping of the water on the lagoon edge and the distant crashing of waves on the ocean side. A receding evening tide brings fishermen into the lagoon, wading the shallows with the a lamp, trailing a fishing net between them or slowly drifting in a canoe to catch the next meal. In the dark of the night, tiny lights shine out in the middle of the lagoon. Beyond the homestay, the village and North Tarawa stretch out. Traditional houses cluster together, a school, church, and a small shop, little else. Children line the street as we pass, quietly whispering or boldly shouting ‘I-Matang’ (foreigner) before running away. Others crowd round in friendly curiosity, following until we reach the edge of the village or they lose interest. Beyond the village houses are sparsely spread along the track. I-Kiribati sit talking or carrying out daily chores; men climb trees for toddy; women sit weaving mats; children play, patiently practising skills passed down to them. There is no need here for TV or fancy toys – the children seem content with what their imagination and natural environment provide. Calm and tranquillity reign. by Vanessa Nuttall.

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abode

Perfect Patinants

e c c A l a t Acciden

The concept that ‘beauty can be coaxed out of ugliness’ is, among other objectives, the underlying ethos of Perfect Imperfect a book that celebrates the effects of accident in aesthetics.

he seemingly contradictory idea that ugly can be beautiful is explored in Perfect Imperfect by renowned stylist and editor Karen McCartney along with her collaborators, photographer Sharyn Cairns and fellow stylist Glen Proebstel. The result is a book brimming with gorgeous photographs

of objets trouvés, cluttered rooms, distressed furniture and patinated pieces from around the globe. The founding principle is based on the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi which celebrates the acceptance of transience and imperfection as a design credo. Wabi-sabi is all about authenticity and simplicity with ‘wabi’ loosely translating

to ‘rustic simplicity’ while ‘sabi’ is the recognition that beauty comes with age. The combination is an appreciation of austerity, patina, roughness and the integrity of natural objects. These come in many forms throughout the book and embrace an amazingly eclectic range of styles and decor from slightly weathered

This page: a partially ‘deconstructed’ designer chair contrasted with a slick and graphic display on the cabinet along with a slightly distressed wall is wabi-sabi interpreted by Bea Mombaers

concrete walls to ancient books, ceramics, shells, damaged furniture, accidental and unruly vines growing over buildings and the textures of timber and stone. The book also includes a series of interviews with leading exponents of the style and includes such notables as stylist and bowerbird Sibella Court, John Wardle,

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PICTURES: All images from Perfect Imperfect by Karen McCartney, Sharyn Cairns and Glen Proebstel

It is ‘about the drawing together of natural, manmade, found, cherished and repurposed elements’.

Left: Don Cameron’s treatment of a Sydney apartment features a spectacular sculpture by André Bogaert on the wall. Above: John Wardle’s

architect and curator, Bea Mombaers retailer and interior designer and Don Cameron director and collector along with many others. Inspiration is taken from private homes, galleries, hotels, retailers, visual merchandisers, photographers and designers. One of the opening photographs which explains Glen Proebstel’s signature style says it all – it is ‘about the drawing together of natural, manmade, found, cherished and repurposed elements’. Indeed the entire book is a reflection of this approach. The designs featured are mostly intimate and personal but also include Canberra’s stunning Hotel Hotel as the only large scale project and a deserving nod to architectural innovation. 288-pages, hardcover, published by Murdoch Books RRP AU$59.99

wall of old books contrasts with new timber. Below from left: ‘falling together’ pots; an eclectic collection from Belgium; French ceramics.

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The Zen Zone ac

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Gardening Editor Carolyn Ernst loves her outdoor privacy. Whether it’s for enjoying a glass of wine, a cup of tea or just for some quiet contemplation with her dogs or the neighbours cows. She explains how to achieve your own meditation area with plants. “One “One thing thing everyone everyone needs needs is is aa little little space space to to call call their their own, own, aa place place to to go go where where they they can can relax relax and and to to contemplate contemplate the the world. world. .. This This space space could could

s I sit here listening to my grandchildren play, the relaxing sound of the river in the background and the birds having an afternoon chat, I think about how lucky I am to have this space that I call home, how much of it is a part of me and how much it helps me cope with the pressures of living. It gives me the privacy I require that allows my spirit to rejuvenate after a hard week at work and the space to be just me. Unfortunately we cannot all afford to have acreage, the cost to the planet of urban sprawl is unmeasurable especially as much of it is over some of the most valuable agricultural land in the world.

p i ac

One thing everyone needs is a little space to call their own, a place to go where they can relax and to contemplate the world. No matter how social you are, we all need this quiet time or privacy, it is not necessarily always alone, it can be with the special person in your life, but this will depend on you and your personality. However the truth is we all need a little privacy and space at some part of our life. This space could be somewhere inside, but that Zen your body needs to rejuvenate and refresh the spirit is so much easier to achieve when outside, letting nature help you. This space does not have to be huge, you just need somewhere where you can

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relax and be comfortable, so a nice chair or mat is required and some sort of shelter to protect you from the weather. These are the only two necessities, a table or somewhere to store things can also be helpful, but this space can be as elaborate or as simple as you want. The one essential is in this space you are able to relax and have a little privacy. This privacy is increasingly hard to find in our busy world, so how do we achieve it? Some of our gardens are now very small so it is all about making the most of it, let nature assist you. Think about the last time you had a massage, it is not just about the masseuse, it is in the smell and sound, it is about nature and ambience. Plants can provide most of that, they provide the perfumes of the world and help the planet breath, they clarify the air so it makes sense to surround yourselves with as many of them and as often as you can.

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How you do this is again about making the most of what you have. If it is only a small balcony, then it is about making sure you have the privacy you need and to choose your plants wisely - make each one count. Privacy can be achieved from either a structure or from plants, vertical gardens are all the rage as this allows you to get many plants into very small spaces. I have just been reading about the huge

be somewhere in inside, but that Zen your body needs to rejuvenate and refresh the spirit is so much easier to achieve, when outside.â&#x20AC;?

vertical gardens being built in China to help purify their air. You too can achieve a little of this when creating your space, remember many flowering plants are short lived and require more maintenance than foliage plants, so while they may look good for a short time , they will require more of your time. Colour is very personal, some people hate variegated plants others adore them, and the same with coloured-leafed plants. Whatever you decide, just make sure you think through the requirements of the plants you choose. If your space is in the full sun, then make sure you provide the shelter they need if you want to plant shade loving plants. The hardware shops are full of all sorts of different structures to make your vertical garden so I will leave it to you to go and speak to the experts and find one that suits you. No private space is complete without smell or perfume, this is achieved not only by flowering plants but also foliage, many plants have scented foliage, I have lemon basil in the garden, the citrus smell is very strong and you only need to brush past it to experience that lovely citrus aroma, the same as the mint that grows down the garden path. For planning purposes you need to look at your garden and decide what areas are critical. This is important; unfortunately most of us are unable to totally shield ourselves and our gardens away from the whole world. Some of our ancient

civilisations were very good at it with their walled gardens and internal courtyards, but for most of us now, this is not possible. You will need to decide which are the areas where you really need privacy and then come up with a plan to shield them. The answer may be a structure or a combination of plant and structure. Remember it is very hard to get a plant that will do the job instantly, unless you have a very large budget. Most plants need to grow, so a temporary solution may be required. This would mean that you might use shade cloth on a temporary fence while your hedge or vine is growing.

Bamboo is a great solution and there are some beautiful clumping varieties available now that do not run and create all sorts of other problems. If your privacy solution requires something tall then it is very hard to find another plant that will provide that sort of height in such a small horizontal space. If bamboo is not for you then another solution is to make a trellis and plant a vine to create a living fence. The trellis you need depends on the vine of your choice. Thunbergia grandiflora makes an amazing privacy hedge and it only requires some strong posts and wires to grow. The other solution is a hedge. We each have our own solution, my experience has been that many hedges are just

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plain hard work, we try to make a plant that wants to grow into a round bush shape into a rectangular shape, this requires hours of work every month to make it look good. The answer as usual lies in having a good look around you, find a hedge you like that looks good in your area. The other thing to be aware of is there is a correct way to trim a hedge, it is not a case of just giving it a snip when it is needed. Here in Vanuatu it is hard to find a correctly trimmed hedge, they are all trimmed in a V shape, nobody really gets that the depth of growth should be at the bottom where you need it, and many of the hedges are trimmed too thin. There is no privacy to be had in a hedge that is trimmed to within an inch of its life and is only a few centimetres thick. The correct shape is the opposite, more an inverted V, with the squared of top thinner than the bottom. This also gives the base of the hedge more light, allowing the leaves to grow properly giving you a thick luxurious hedge. The other secret in making a thick dense hedge is in the planting. Not using a single planting but either two or three rows of plants, offsetting one another for a deep thick growth.

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My two favourites for hedges are the murraya or mock orange and a local plant called Nalalilus. The Murraya makes a beautiful thick hedge, it can be trimmed into a neat box if you really like that and is covered in beautiful highly perfumed flowers multiple times in a year. The Nalalilus is a yellow colour which may not suit everyone but it is edible and the thing I like is that it really wants to grow in a hedge shape. Trimming the tops maybe three or four times a year and a little tidy up on the sides, is all it requires. Remember if the reason for your hedge is privacy and to stop people looking in then it needs to be at least 1.8 - 2 metres tall and 75 cm wide. My life is busy, I don’t always have a lot of time but I have a special place I love and often share, it is protected from the weather and from the trade winds, I am often joined by the cattle next door and of course my dogs and it is a great place for a glass of wine in the evening or a cup of tea in the morning. Happy gardening- Carolyn Carolyn owns and manages Eden on the River, an open garden in Port Vila. Visitors always welcome.

PICTURES: Carolyn Ernst

“You just need somewhere where you can relax, so a nice chair or mat is required and some sort of shelter to protect you from the weather.”

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Offering a stunning range of Vanuatu stamps and first day covers for collectors or as souvenirs available for purchase online

Featuring beautiful photographs and illustrations of Vanuatu

At Hideaway Island Resort’s marine sanctuary you will find the world’s first underwater post office. You can post Underwater Post postcards to family and friends as a unique souvenir of your Vanuatu holiday! 92 | Islandliving paciﬁc

www.vanuatupost.vu

Crossword

Puzzling questions to while away your holiday. Solution on page 111 ACROSS 1 An art that incorporates melody, harmony and rhythm (5) 5 Sprint races (6) 9 Cymbidium, for example (6) 10 Pleasant smell (5) 11 French country house (7) 12 Sound equipment (6) 15 A non-news article in a newspaper (7) 17 Stock of wine (6) 20 Ready to eat (4) 22 Totally, completely (10) 26 Final stage (3) 28 Indicating maiden name (3) 29 One who participates in competitions (10) 32 Flakes that fall (4) 33 Holiday centre (6) 36 Paradise (7) 40 A dish served before the main course (6) 43 White wine (7) 44 Fast car (5) 45 Famous film festival (6) 46 Junior’s dad (6) 47 Occasion (5) DOWN 1 Lunch or dinner, for example (4) 2 Devonshire tea item (5) 3 Seashore (5) 4 The archetypal uncultivated Australian working man (5) 5 Gambling cubes (4) 6 Unplanned (2,3) 7 Accommodation for guests (5)

9 10

11 12 15

19 20

26 29

27 31

35 40

42 44

43 45 46

8 Transport route for ships (3,4) 13 Large food fish (4) 14 Self-discipline (9) 16 Holiday planner, possibly (5) 18 Level (4) 19 Aquatic reptile in short (4) 21 Writing instrument (3) 23 Electric car maker (5)

24 Egg layer (3) 25 Lines of seats in a theatre (4) 27 High-priced (4) 30 Taxing (7) 31 Flag (4) 34 Large body of water (5) 35 Provider of phone and internet services (5)

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i a c

Kefalonia

Peak Greek

iskardo (also Fiscardo or in the past Viscardo) has been both reviled and revered for being the St Tropez of Kefalonia as far as I’m concerned the fact that it’s attracted Madonna, Bruce Springsteen, Giorgio Armani and Steven Spielberg among other celebs doesn’t bother me in the slightest, if it’s good enough for their super yachts to moor here then my rented Fiat Punto can park here too. And I fail to see any evidence of the place having been ‘spoiled’ by celebrity, it’s far too small to accommodate more than one or two at any given time with a local population of around 300 and a port frontage of just two kilometres. It’s easy to see the why people who presumably can visit anywhere in the world their fancy or fortune takes them would want to call in to this gorgeous little fishing village if they happen to be cruising the Greek islands. It typifies what lies at the heart of my love affair with Kefalonia – quay side dining with wonderfully hospitable entertaining Greek company accompanied by simply fabulous food, wine and music. During the month we spent in Greece, apart from a visit to Athens I don’t think we ever ate a meal further than three metres from the water. In Athens the view was mostly of the Acropolis so that made up for the absence of fishing boats and super cruisers. But being that close to the source of what’s on your plate is dining heaven, you get the sense that the octopus or sardines may have leapt from the adjacent water straight onto your plate, the food certainly tastes that fresh. Like many things Greek confusion surrounds the name of this island (as well as Fiskardo). I’ve settled on Kefalonia but you may know it as Cephalonia, Kefallonia or even Kefallinia, whatever spelling you settle on won’t make any difference to its attractions, they are many and splendid. It is the largest of the Ionian islands of which there may be six or seven depending on whether or not you include Kythira which is not

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in the Ionian sea but the group was originally known as Heptanese or ‘the seven islands’ so long as you don’t count the many smaller islands which are also part of the group. Get the idea? It’s all a bit hard to pin down when it comes to Greek ‘facts’ and statistics. Over the centuries there have been numerous invaders and occupiers laying claim to various bits of Greece so Venetians, British, Turks, Macedonians, Romans and French are all responsible for the confusing etymology and the rich history. In the case of Kefalonia, the Venetians have probably left the most obvious heritage having ruled over the place for nearly 300 years from 1500. Although the French and British followed, the architecture and some of the cuisine is mostly influenced by the Venetian style although much of the original fabric was destroyed by a catastrophic earthquake in 1953 which saw most of the island rebuilt with the notable exception of Fiskardo in the far north. While ‘large’ in comparison to its Ionian neighbours the island is only 770 square kilometres which makes everything easily accessible and from our base in the picturesque village of Sami on the east coast the joke among our little group was that everywhere we drove seemed to be about 30 minutes away although this sometimes in reality stretched to an hour. This made our daily trips to coastal villages a breeze and lunch at a different port or beach a quotidian delight. The main attractions apart from mostly pebble-strewn beaches and the mountainous interior are culinary and archaeological with Roman ruins and 17th century monasteries on the list as well as the local winery famous for its Robola wines. As you’d expect the island is surrounded by the luminous, vivid blue water that’s common throughout the Greeks isles, and in this area is noted for the appearance of sea turtles and monk seals as well as perfect diving and snorkelling conditions.

PICTURES: Craig Osment

Greek islands are renowned around the globe as holiday destinations but some are better known than others and overwhelmed by coach-loads of tourists, for something less crowded and more authentic Craig Osment takes the ferry to Kefalonia and finds himself beside the seaside at every meal.

The Kefalonian village of Assos nestles behind an isthmus below the rugged mountainous interior of the island which is dotted with Greek fir and pine trees.

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In addition it’s home to one of the most fabled beaches in the world; Myrtos, on the north west coast, which stretches in an arc between two 900-metre mountains and is dazzling white because of the marble and limestone pebbles that become increasingly smaller as you approach the waterline. Amazingly during the northern spring on our visits, there was hardly a soul to be seen after winding down the steep road from above, just a carpark and a deserted beach bar, very little activity for such an iconic beach but then the entire island is an overlooked wonderland compared to some of Greece’s more popular tourist destinations which makes it even more alluring, and the almost total lack of tourist coaches a welcome change from some.

There is a sandy beach and tourists to be found on the southern tip of the island at Skala, which is strangely the least appealing destination apart from a Roman villa ruin which features well preserved mosaic floors from the 3rd century AD. The beach itself and the surrounds appear to have been transported from the Costa del Sol with large hotels and beach chairs which are completely at odds with the intimacy of most of the other coastal towns. There is plenty for history buffs though with a museum in the

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island’s capital of Argostoli featuring some of the country’s most significant finds from the Mycenaean era along with the 16th century monastery of Saint Gerasimus, patron saint of Kefalonia which features an elaborate carved iconostasis or alter screen and a silver casket containing the remains of the saint himself. Among the more recent points of historical interest is the fame brought briefly to the island as the location for the 2001 film Captain Correlli’s Mandolin which was filmed entirely on the island and mostly around Sami and Ayía Ephimía where the local taverna owners still reminisce about the presence of Nicholas Cage and Penelope Cruz. But back to those charming little waterfront villages with a quay and fishing boats and open tavernas lining the seaside, they are dotted around the entire coastline and some are must-visits. Poros, where we landed after one of those wonderful trips on a blue and white inter-island ferry from Kyllini in the Peloponnese area of the mainland and revisited during our stay to enjoy yet another waterside lunch. Further up the west coast is Ayía Ephimía, which is a favourite with visiting sailors who moor their yachts right outside their favourite taverna. On the north east coast, Assos has to enjoy one of the most spectacular locations of all, nestled in a small bay behind an isthmus and home to the 16th century Assos Castle sitting atop a rocky hill, the village is a delight with the

Opposite page: Typical waterside dining, with boats almost tied to the table leg in Fiskardo. Left: The famous but almost deserted Myrtos beach. Top: The national tipple. Above: Maritime history reflected in souvenirs. Below: Seafood straight from the boat on the Argostoli waterfront. Bottom: Sardines, octopus and squid.

inevitable beachfront eateries plus a couple of ruined Venetian houses decaying behind to remind you of the history and the 1953 earthquake which is recalled here with a plaque thanking the French for their assistance with reconstruction after the devastation. Finally a visit to Argostoli gives you a glimpse of the ‘big smoke’ if a town with just over 10,000 inhabitants qualifies. The capital is once again set by the water and painted in gelato colours and the stepping off point for a ferry trip to the other main town of Lixouri which is just across the Argostoliou Gulf and formerly the summer holiday destination of choice for the children of the Greek Royal Family and claims to have been visited by Richard Strauss during its heyday in the 19th century.

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Kefalonia’s nearest neighbor is Ithaca (or Ithaki) which is just a half-hour car ferry trip from Sami and reputedly home to the mythical hero Odysseus from Homer’s Odyssey although this is still subject to dispute. Whatever, the island has been occupied since the 2nd millennium BC and has plenty of history as well as a beautiful capital in the form of Vathy which is – you guessed it, yet another stunning waterside town and another opportunity for lunch in the sunshine which seemed to follow us throughout our stay.

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Top: Your table by the seaside at Sami; Monastery of Saint Girasimus. Below: The bow of an inter-island ferry; an Homeric homage in Vathy.

Greece attracts nearly 30 million tourists per year so it’s not just food that brings them, the country includes a record 18 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, hundreds of islands lapped by waters in every hue of blue, and a wonderful history steeped in myth and meaning culled from its many occupiers. Having said that you’ve probably gathered that eating and drinking are top of my list. The waterside tavernas are wonderfully convivial places which are often separated from their kitchens by a stretch of road between the covered seafront dining area and the main building. This means waiters deliver food trays from among the passing traffic which, while an occupational health and safety risk, seems to work perfectly well most of the time. Greece being the ‘cradle of civilisation’ is still out in front on a lot of social activities which would be banned elsewhere in the world. These tavernas

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often offer live music from resident rembetika groups and lots of spontaneous dancing to amuse their diners as if there wasn’t already enough to ponder from the table – the boats moored a few metres away and the passing couples and families undertaking their daily ‘volta’ which is the Greek version of the Italian passeggiata.

Start the day with yoghurt and honey, don’t miss the goat and lamb dishes and definitely eat as much seafood as you can – octopus, swordfish, sardines – whatever is fresh and on the menu. Try Greek favourites like saganaki (fried cheese), souvlaki, moussaka and obviously followed up with some baklava. Olive oil and oregano accompany almost everything savoury. And at the end of the meal try the raki, arak or ouzo if you’re within walking distance of home.

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Art-Tee s n g i s e d earable

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rom famous faces to fabulous places the images found on T-shirts span the spectrum from commerce to couture, politics to pathos and humour to hubris. Originally worn by workmen as underclothing which they stripped down to in hot and dirty conditions the T-shirt came out from under in the forties when American marines took to wearing them with their khakis sans tunic. It didn’t take long for these blank canvases to become adorned with everything from corporate logos to images of Mickey Mouse and Miami resorts’ livery. From here the wearable art phenomenon took off and every imaginable message and meme has been appearing on them since. Football teams, car lovers, music aficionados, fashionistas and faux goods producers all love them. While they are the ultimate egalitarian garment costing as little as a few dollars, there are those prepared to pay much more for something with someone else’s name on it as long as it’s Versace or Armani, or even better a vintage rock ‘n roll number from a band’s merchandising department. A quick look at eBay and the internet reveals some rare examples going for thousands of dollars and any number of cheaper reproductions available everywhere. The net also has many leads as to where to find screen printers who will reproduce your own bespoke

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The humble T -shirt started life as an undergarment in the late 19th century but emerged as our favourite way of wearing our art on our sleeves and elsewhere in the forties. From politics to personal preferences, ironic to iconic, the designs screen printed on to T-shirts have traversed all social classes, genders and borders with some having become collector’s items. By Toby Preston.

Design your own and declare your macho hobbies for the world to see. They can be ordered online and printed and delivered pretty cheaply. At least you’ll be the only one wearing it.

Above: The Donald and Bernie get the hair shirt treatment while the old ‘keep calm’ theme is re-worked. Below: Che and Bob – everywhere.

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Above: Above: There’s There’s no no such such thing thing as as aa saying saying that that can’t can’t be be adapted; adapted; nor nor aa luxury luxury brand brand name name sold sold at at silly silly money, money, this this one one by by Versace Versace is is ‘only’ ‘only’ US$495; US$495; The Orient calls all aboard while the Barrier Reef promises sun, sand and fish, from the twenties to the fifties, travel was a more glamorous

NYC, been there, seen that; Francaise is always chic even when stating the obvious; and Gandhi lives on in mellow yellow with aphorisms to order.

designs and it's really easy get one-offs printed for relatively little money if you want something unique. Along with the ubiquitous baseball cap they are probably the most bought item of souvenir clothing and fill tourist shops from Finland to Fiji with city names and local animals from reindeer to kangaroos and kiwis there's no end to the kitsch but among the dross there's always something chic to be found too. And for something really different try breaking the Guinness world record for the ‘most T-shirts worn at once'. It's 257 at the moment, set in Colombo in 2011.

Far left: The Chevrolet ‘bow tie’ declares a love of American metal while (centre) funky Australian cafe and motorcycle maniacs Deus Ex Machina have taken their Latin motto international. Right: Official vintage rock band tour merchandise has become very collectable and expensive.

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Vanuatu’s national men’s team has progressed through to division five of the ICC World Cricket League. They put their success down to training, dedication and pride in playing for their country. And an extremely dedicated national coach. Cricket is taking off in Vanuatu, thanks to the heroic national team and a dedication to introduce cricket to young boys and girls in

or those of us who live in the Pacific, or perhaps follow rugby, we all felt truly Fijian when their Rugby 7s men took gold at Rio – the first ever gold medal at an Olympics for Fiji. The government declared a public holiday and the team came home to a hero’s welcome. Earlier this year, Vanuatu was elevated to division five of the International Cricket Council’s World Cricket League. For Vanuatu, this was equally as exciting as winning an Olympic medal, and with good reason. Vanuatu is soccer-mad. It’s played in schools, in villages, at work – up until very recently public servants finished work early on Wednesdays just to play the national sport. Cricket wasn’t even second fiddle. It simply didn’t rate. And then a fairytale started evolving, when the hugely talented and committed former Australian first class cricketer Shane Deitz was appointed high performance manager and head coach of the Vanuatu national cricket team – although the humble sportsman would never admit that. Shane took the reigns of Vanuatu Cricket but his focus has never been solely about qualifying for anything. He set about developing cricket in the soccer-mad country and started in the villages. He put together a team of young men and women to encourage others to play cricket throughout Vanuatu. Women especially were encouraged to play and clinics were held all

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over the islands. Judy Avok, a 22 year-old woman from Port Vila is the first full time Women’s Development Officer in Vanuatu. Her father played club cricket and her older brother played for the national team and that’s how she began. “I used to follow my brother around everywhere and asked him if he could teach me to play. From the first time I held the bat, I loved it,” she said. After school Judy studied at the University of the South but couldn’t find any work in Vila. “Someone told me about the women’s development officer role being advertised and I thought, well, I’ve been playing cricket since I was a little girl, I could probably do that!” “Her first job is her current job and she has performed extremely well,” Shane says. “Women’s cricket had only four club teams and no structure in 2015 and now with the help of Eddie Mansale (Vanuatu Women’s National Coach) there are six clubs which will grow to eight next competition.” Shane has also ensured the national players will have a career after cricket too, by implementing a cadet program for all contracted players. The national squad now works for Vanuatu Cricket as development officers. They train seven days a week, work as an intern one day a week and study one day a week. “Whilst we’re working towards Division Four, it’s important

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these guys get an education, get some work experience and prepare for life after cricket as well,” Shane said. NUATU Jamal Vira has been on the national team since 2016 VAand is studying law at USP. He is doing a work placement whilst studying at Ridgeway Blake law firm as part of his cricket/life development. “I went to a school clinic for cricket when I was in year four, with my now teammate Angus Blake. I loved it and have played ever since,” he said. Jamal described the win in Bendigo – where Vanuatu defeated Fiji in the final to progress to division five as the most exciting moment in his life. “There is no greater feeling than playing for your country. For some reason when you put on the team jumper you feel different. We knew we were going to win. We were so prepared and so confident and we have Shane to thank for that. We are a different team since he’s been with us and we owe our success to him.” Vanuatu Cricket estimates 20,000 kids and adults are now playing the game in Vanuatu. And with the new national heros as ambassadors, those numbers are set to climb. “Coming home was amazing. We had so many people meet us at the airport, we felt so proud,” Jamal said. “We’re so lucky to have so much support and so proud of what we have achieved. I can’t wait to put on the jumper again and go for Division Four.” .

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Once again the Fiji International is seeking volunteers for what has to be one of the best gigs going if you're into golf. The 2017 tournament this August at Natadola Bay is the venue.

For volunteers who like aview. The stunning Natadola Bay Chamionship Golf Course on Fiji's Coral Coast.

he 2017 Fiji International at Natadola Bay is one of the most picturesque venues on the ISPS HANDA PGA Tour of Australasia and you can now be a part of it! Volunteer applications are now being accepted for the tournament to be held on the new dates of 17-20 August, allowing greater flexibility for golfing stars competing internationally to fit the Fiji International into their busy schedules. What better setting than Natadola Bay Championship Golf Course, where 14 of the 18 holes have spectacular views of the Coral Coast, to rub shoulders with some of the best players in the world? The Fiji International can provide a role for many, regardless of your golfing experience, whether it is inside the ropes scoring for a Tour professional, through to assisting at the driving range. With only a four to six hour shift to complete on each day of play, there is plenty of time to relax in the beautiful surroundings Fiji has to offer, the tournament’s official hotel; the InterContinental Fiji Golf Resort and Spa, also provides everything you’ll need to unwind after a day on the course. The luxury resort, last year voted one of the top-10 luxury

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hotels in Fiji at the TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice awards, is right next door to Natadola Bay Championship Golf Course. The resort provides services that go beyond the worldrenowned Fijian warmth and hospitality to give guests authentic, enriching experiences and insights into the Fijian culture and way of life. Depending on your budget and location preference there are a number of different accommodation options with all Fiji International volunteer packages including seven nights’ accommodation and breakfast daily. All volunteers at the Fiji International receive an official tournament uniform, lunch daily as well as a gift to express the tournament’s gratitude. But the highlight is playing Natadola Bay Championship Golf Course like a Pro on Super Monday. The past three years the Fiji International has attracted volunteers from Australia, New Zealand and Fiji with the fun experience forging international friendships for life. If a working holiday combined with some golf sounds like your kind of paradise then contact Norm Emerson, Volunteer Manager on nlemerson@ozemail.com.au or visit the Volunteers page for all the Fiji International volunteer packages.

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Out To Lunch Toby Preston admits to enjoying a reputation of being a bit of a dilettante when it comes to lunch but is unapologetic about his enduring indulgence.

any years ago (at the beginning of this century) I wrote a column which opened with the following paragraphs: “I went to lunch in 1988 and didn’t really ever come back which makes me something of an item of culinary archaeology. Lunch ceased to be fashionable along with braces, contrasting collared shirts, gold Rolex watches and the Fringe Benefits Tax. It dropped from sight shortly after people started ‘doing it’ rather than ‘having it’. “The new fin de siècle wholesomeness dictates a genetically modified sandwich in the gym or a glucoseboosted energy beverage at the laptop in the office. This is the decade of downloading and carb-loading. Indulgence is for dinosaurs and lunch is synonymous with loucheness and a lack of commitment in today’s world of the chemically induced high between checking your email and calling your message bank. “Leisurely meals lead to insurrection and sudden outbreaks of initiative or imagination, states of mind generally abhorred by the human resources people who want everyone singing from the same mission statement.” Well, I’m still there but the location has moved from Sydney to the South Pacific where lunching at leisure is almost de rigeur. After all most expatriates inhabit the region because they share a love of the lifestyle and when in a place where the livin’ is easy then prandial meandering is part of the culture. The other advantage of living in smaller communities with limited dining options is you’re almost always guaranteed to bump into people you know among your fellow diners and tables have a habit of spontaneously expanding and the meal becoming more elongated. Indeed there are a few venues which are notorious for the long lunch morphing into the early dinner and sometimes into a sleepover if there’s accommodation attached. Not only are revellers welcome to continue enjoying themselves they are positively encouraged, which is just good business I suppose when the mark-up on booze is better than food. In big cities the ‘work ethic’ has propelled the proponents of lunch into the role of a defensive outcast. Remorseless corporate scrutiny has conditioned us to believe that if you’re doing something that might be mistaken as fun then you’re not pulling your weight. And if you’re doing nothing at all then you might as well be euthanased because if you’re not contributing to the GDP then you’re clinically dead in commercial terms. If you’ve got time on your hands then

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you’re obviously on your last legs. Indolence and indulgence are completely defunct concepts. Out here on the islands some people complain about ‘island time’ but never complain when it applies to lunch, which is exactly what island time is about. It’s both a cause of frustration as well as the major attraction of living in places where if time doesn’t exactly stand still it certainly doesn’t have the energy or inclination to ‘fugit’. As an early adopter of the slow lunch movement, I’m not suggesting that all long lunches and lunchers are obsolete or otiose. Many of my best business initiatives have emerged from lunches with colleagues, contributors, publishers, freelance journalists and hungry creatives with an idea to pitch. Maybe that’s called the ‘work-life’ balance in action. In fact for many years my business partners and I dispensed with a board room/meeting room in favour of the restaurant next door or the pub on the corner so that all our conferring could be accompanied by food, wine, coffee and conviviality. It’s for this reason that when it comes to phone etiquette I’m not a hardliner in the on-or-off debate, in fact the mobile phone has liberated the long luncher, there’s nothing wrong with discretely checking your emails or taking a call if you’re polite about it, and no-one knows where it is that you’re conducting your business unless of course you’re slurring your words while slurping your shiraz. The gigabyte and the gigabite can happily co-exist in the new world of a laptop on every table so long as you continue paying attention to the real business at hand – ordering food and keeping up with whose shout it is for the next round. So there, I’m an unapologetic boulevardier – lurching between indolence and industriousness and happy to inhabit a place here in the Pacific where we thankfully have plenty of places to indulge, and mostly with that essential waterside location or view. For the uninitiated here are a few suggestions: In Vanuatu try Tamanu on the Beach, perhaps the country’s premier long lunch destination, Francesca’s on Havannah Harbour, the Point at the Havannah resort, Tilly’s at Chantilly’s on the waterfront in Port Vila or Reefers and Au Faré almost next door. On Santo try Moyyan House by the Sea or Aore Island Resort. In Fiji go to Cardo’s Steakhouse at Port Denerau or try the colonial-style luxury of the Grand Pacific in Suva. The Solomons has the Coral Seas Resort … first choose your island, then a waterfront location, then ask a local, you get the idea!

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