Islandliving fiji from the editor
WINTER 2017 | ISSUE 20
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ext issue, we will be celebrating four years of Pacific Island Living. We started this magazine for Pacific people – to find, review and recommend things to see and do, and ultimately, buy. We are proudly an aspirational magazine, we want our readers to sit back and indulge just as much as we want to tell the world how great the Pacific really is. From Georgie Gordon’s health and beauty columns, to Carolyn Ernst’s gardening tips, we hope you agree Pacific Island Living has something for everyone. In four years our market has grown from Vanuatu and Nauru Airlines to cover most of the Pacific. We’re particularly proud of our market share in Fiji and the Solomon Islands as well as our distribution in Australia through Qantas Club lounges. As I write this column I’m in Fiji, having just flown in from Vanuatu. Next month it will be Nauru then the Sollies. Pacific Island Living truly is a Pacific magazine and we’re so pleased you have enjoyed it and helped its growth over the last four years. Please do keep in touch via our website, Facebook page, Instagram or Twitter. Happy reading. Tiffany Carroll
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and Instagram at instagram.com/pacisliving or read this and all our magazines online at www.pacific-island-living. com Cover images - Fiji Island Living courtesy Adrenalin Fiji; Solomon Island Living, by David Kirkland; Nauru Airlines Cover courtesy Nautilus Resort, Kosrae; Vanuatu cover courtesy Pavol Stranák. Copyright: All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu Tourism Office or Pacific Island Living.
DIVING WITH SHARKS | DINING GUIDE TIMEOUT | PLUS FOOD | FASHION BEAUTY | HEALTH | GOLF islandliving | 1 pacific
islandliving | 1 paciďŹ c
Ni Sa Bula
PICTURE: Jet skiing with Adrenalin, Denarau.
Bula Vinaka! We all dream of swapping our hectic, noisy lives for the tranquility of a tropical island paradise. A place where the pace slower, decisions are simpler and we can bask in the luxury of relative isolation and space to just chill. As much as we love them, rarely do those daydreams include overcrowded pools and hyperactive children high on sugar. Fiji is famously family-friendly but with 330 islands to hide away on, you will still find many adult-only getaways tucked away in remote, idyllic pockets where you can relax and recharge your batteries. Other resorts separate their sprawling properties and facilities into kids-free areas so you’re still guaranteed a relaxing holiday. If you’re looking for romance, you’ll be delighted at all the options for private dining, spa treatments and all-inclusive
activities. Even outside the sanctuary of your room there are heaps of exciting experiences to share with your special someone. Jetski to a remote island, dive impressive coral reefs or just play castaway on your own private beach. The options for making memories are numerous. We hope you’ll visit us soon and discover your own little slice of Fijian paradise.
Vinaka!
Islandliving | 1 Fiji
Paddling through the Lau Islands is one of those must-do activities in life and available through Captain Cook Cruises.
Fiji: The Facts
We have two seasons: warm and even warmer. It’s a sunny, tropical climate that’ll wash the winter chills from your bones. That doesn’t mean it never rains here, but you can expect May to November, our cooler months, to range from 19° to 29°C. And from December to April, the temperatures move up the register to range from 22° to 33°C.
Geography
Fiji is a very hospitable land of blue-green lagoons, lush rainforests, pine forests, mountains and 1,666 kilometres (1000 miles) of white sand beaches spread over 300 islands scattered across 18,270 square kilometres (11,350 square miles) of ocean.
Time Zone
Straddling the 180th meridian, Fiji has frequently been called ‘the crossroads of the Pacific’. In fact, the International Date Line has been adjusted so that the entire archipelago falls into the same time zone, 12 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. From November to February Fiji moves one hour ahead with its own daylight savings.
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Population and language
Fiji’s population is approximately 837,000 made up of indigenous Fijians, Indians, Chinese, Europeans and South Pacific Islanders. English is the official language with Fijian and Hindustani also spoken.
Religion
Fiji is a multi-cultural nation with many religious beliefs. The people are primarily of the Wesleyan persuasion. Various protestant denominations, Roman Catholicism, Hinduism and Islam are also represented.
Local customs
It is important to dress modestly when away from hotels and resorts and particularly when visiting a Fijian village. Avoid wearing a hat in a village, it is considered an insult to the village chief. It is also insulting to touch someone’s head. It’s best to not wear shoes if visiting someone’s house. When visiting a village it is customary to present an inexpensive gift of yaqona or kava to the ‘Turaga Ni Koro’, the traditional head of the village. Be prepared to shake hands and answer personal questions as to where you are from, whether married; and, if so, how many children.
PICTURE: Capatin Cook Cruises, Fiji.
The temperature
Health
Fiji is free from malaria, yellow fever and major tropical diseases. Inoculations are only required if travelling from an infected area. There is an effective medical system in place with government and privately run hospitals, clinics, surgical centres, dental services and pharmacies.
Phone calls and Internet
Fiji’s country code is +679. Many hotels and resorts have direct dialling facilities (IDD), and card phones are available in many shops and stores. Look for the Telecom call card signage on display. Fiji is well serviced by local mobile networks including Vodafone Fiji Limited, Digicel and Inkk Mobile. You can also arrange roaming status before travelling here as well as on arrival. Access to the internet and email is available in most parts of Fiji. In addition to sites at all major hotels, internet cafés are abundant in major cities and towns.
Currency and banking
The Fijian dollar is the basic unit of currency, available in denominations of $5, $10, $20, $50 and $100. Coins are 5c, 10c, 20c, 50c, $1 and $2. Normal banking hours are 9:30am to 4:00pm, Monday – Friday and 9:00am to 1:00pm on Saturdays in selected areas. There is a 24-hour currency exchange service at the arrivals concourse at Nadi Airport. ATMs are located around the country and at larger resorts and hotels.
Bargaining
You’ll find many sophisticated retail outlets here, suitable for traditional tourist shopping. And if you venture a little further, you’ll discover fruit and vegetable markets, overflowing with produce, curio and handicraft vendors, Indian merchandise and specialty gift stores. It’s here that you might find yourself in a bargaining session over price. It’s all part of the experience, so go ahead and enter into the spirit of it.
Tipping
We don’t encourage tipping, but you may, if you wish, offer extra payment for an outstanding service.
Electricity
The electric current is 240 volts AC 50Hz. Fiji has threepin power outlets, which are identical to Australia and New Zealand. Leading hotels and resorts offer universal outlets for 240v or 11v shavers, hair dryers and other electrical appliances.
Quarantine
To avoid the introduction of foreign plant and animal pests and diseases, we prohibit the importation of vegetable matter, seeds, or any animal product without a permit from the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forests.
Taxes
A 15% Government Value Added Tax (VAT) is applicable to all goods and services in Fiji. Visitors staying in hotels and resorts are subject to 5% Hotel Turnover Tax (HTT).
VAT refund scheme
The Fiji VAT refund scheme allows tourists to claim a refund (subject to certain conditions) of VAT paid on goods purchased in Fiji and taken out of Fiji via Nadi International Airport or Suva Wharf as the final port of departure to a foreign destination.
What are the conditions of the scheme?
To be eligible for a VAT refund under the Scheme, you must satisfy all of the following: Spend a minimum of FJ$500 (VAT Inclusive) in any of the approved licensed retailer outlets during your stay in Fiji and take the goods out of Fiji within two months from the date of purchase. Carry the goods with you as check-in baggage or hand luggage. Purchase the goods from an approved licensed retailer. You must ask the retailer for a refund form and a tax invoice(s) for goods purchased. So if you are spending over FJ$500 at Jacks, Tapoo etc make sure you ask them for the refund form. The licensed retailer must complete the form and attach receipts.
Customs duty and duty free concessions
A bona fide passenger disembarking in Fiji is entitled to the following duty and VAT free concessions: Dutiable goods accompanying passengers (other than alcohol and tobacco products) not exceeding FJ$1,000 in value. Goods that are owned by passengers and not intended as gifts or for sale – personal effects, household effects for returning residents or intending residents, articles taken out of Fiji on departure on which duty and tax have been paid. Every passenger 17 years and over can bring into Fiji the following goods duty and VAT free, provided they are accompanied and not for sale: • Cigarettes, not exceeding 250 sticks or • Cigars, not exceeding 250 grams net weight or • Tobacco not exceeding 250 grams net weight or • Any combination of (1) to (3) above, provided the total net weight does not exceed 250 grams • Spirituous liquors not exceeding 2.25 litres or • Wines, not exceeding 4.5 litres or • Beer, not exceeding 4.5 litres or • Any combination of the goods in paragraph (5) to (7) above, provided that the combination does not exceed the equivalent quantity under any one paragraph • Other dutiable goods, not exceeding F$1,000 in value.
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Time Out in Fiji
Family friendly it is, but there’s heaps to do for the grown ups too. Here’s our adults-only guide.
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ost times, romance is more a sunset beach walk than a bottle of bubbly under the stars (although that certainly has its merits). Luckily Fiji’s 333 islands and network of reefs offer lots of opportunities for these experiences whether you’re hiking vine-covered rainforests, diving teeming coral cities or simply getting weightless in warm tropical waters. We’ve put together a list of activities which although aren’t strictly kids-free, score high on the adventure and romance scale. The fact that fewer kids sign up for these is just a bonus for those wanting a little couple’s time. DIVING Fiji is blessed with some of the prettiest and most extensive coral reefs on the planet and you’d be mad not to dive here. Even if you don’t dive, many beach-based resorts can hook you up with a dive company for PADI or SSI certified scuba lessons. Experienced divers chasing a thrill should not miss the world-famous Shark Dive off Pacific Harbour. Up to eight species of shark can be encountered in a single dive – including awe-inspiring bull and tiger sharks. A portion of the dive fees is given to local villagers who have partnered with the dive companies to set up a Shark Marine Reserve in which sharks are protected and fishing is prohibited. The ultimate dive adventure are the multi-day dive
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expeditions on luxurious live-aboards and Fiji has plenty of those! Great dives sites are particularly plentiful in the Somosomo Strait, Bligh Waters, Koro Sea and the Astrolobe Reef. SURFING They say that once you’ve learnt to surf, you never stop chasing that thrill. In Fiji, surfing takes place on offshore reef breaks and many resorts will put you in touch with surf charters, schools and camps close to access the nearest wave. If you’re new to surfing, smaller wave conditions are found during the summer months of November – March and Natadola Beach is probably the best place for learners on the main island. If you’re pretty confident on the water, then the winter months of April – October is when you’ll find bigger waves. Check out ‘Cloudbreak’ in the Mamanuca Islands – the World Surf League’s annual ‘Fiji Pro’ competition is held there in June each year. SKYDIVING One for the bucketlist. The ultimate thrill, this experience combines a scenic flight with a heart-pumping freefall and leisurely parachute ride. Its extra special in Fiji as you get to leap from a dizzying 14,000ft over Nadi or the Mamanuca Islands for breathtakingly beautiful bird’s-eye views of the
From a day trip to Cloud 9 (opposite page) to surfing, parasailing, kayaking or buggy rides, Fiji is as action packed as you want to make it.
island and reef mosaics. Fiji’s two skydive companies, Skydive Fiji or Free Fall Fiji are both based in Nadi on Viti Levu. CLOUD 9 This heavenly two-tier floating bar hovers above dazzling Roro Reef off Malolo island – just a 15min boat ride from Cloudbreak. Wood-fired Italian pizzas, cool cocktails, cold beers and laid-back tunes make this the perfect mid-ocean chill-out spot. Snorkels are handy for when you’re not doing somersaults off the top-deck and groups can pre-arrange more watersports for their visit. JETSKI ADVENTURES Exhilarating, high-speed jaunts to uninhabited islands are hard to beat. Some trips take you out simply for the thrill of the ride while others make a day of it. If you’re on Malolo Island in the Mamanucas, take the jetski trip to Monuriki island (of ‘Castaway’ movie fame) for a few hours of beach bumming, cave exploring and snorkeling the island’s crystalline waters. Other jetski operators are based at Pacific Harbour, Denarau and Vuda. SMALL SHIP CRUISING Multi-day island-hopping cruises to some of Fiji’s most
stunning islands operate out of Port Denarau in Nadi. Blue Lagoon Cruises and Captain Cook Cruises – the major cruise operators – visit the Mamanuca and Yasawa Island groups weekly on 3, 4 and 7-day itineraries. Captain Cook Cruises also have less regular ‘Discovery’ cruises to northern and eastern Fiji. These regions are more remote and culturally diverse so you’re in for a treat! Private yacht or catamaran charters can also be booked out of Port Denarau through Wai Tandra. KITESURFING Kitesurfing is one of the most exhilarating experiences you can have on the water and there are numerous opportunities to upskill here. In Fiji, the optimum kite surf season is between July and September when winds are more favourable. For the uninitiated, Kiteboard Fiji in Rakiraki offers private lessons and kite clinics to learn the ropes or gain new skills. Other great kite surf spots can be found in the Mamanucas (Namotu), Rakiraki, Suva Harbour and Vanua Levu. KAYAKING ADVENTURES This adventure takes your average resort kayak to new heights!
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Fiji has great diving, from the famous Beqa Shark dive to coral reef diving off Denarau, get out there amongst the friendly fish.
Rivers Fiji in Pacific Harbour operates day kayak adventures along the Deuba Coast. The trip combines exploration of the thriving mangrove forests and snorkeling in remote bays and includes a hearty lunch to keep your energy up. Tamarillo Active Travel offers multi-day sea-kayak adventures in Kadavu; one of the most remote and unspoiled regions of Fiji. Daily kayaking stints are peppered with reef snorkeling and hiking forested slopes. You’ll cap the day off at one of the island’s many resorts and villages with a delicious meal, the chance to rinse off the day’s salt and sand and the promise of a clean, comfortable bed. PRIVATE ISLAND PICNICS A favourite couples activity for many boutique island resorts, private beach picnics help you escape the ‘crowd’ even if you’re already on a remote island! Just appoint a time and the resort will whisk you away to a nearby private island or beach to play ‘castaway’ for a few hours. Packed picnic lunches are a given but some resorts also throw in a beach hut and non-motorised activities to help you while away the hours. CROSS ISLAND HIKING For an experience unlike any other, escape the beach and
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discover Fiji on foot with Talanoa Treks – Fiji’s only dedicated hiking company. Their three-day cross-island trek takes you across rock-filled rivers and grass-covered hinterland into remote Fiji. The hike overnights in Fijian villages and lodges before ending with a visit to the picturesque village of Navala. WHITEWATER RAFTING A white-water rafting trip in Fiji’s ‘Grand Canyon’ during the high-water season is one for your bucketlist. Revered for its phenomenal beauty, the narrow, high-walled canyon features numerous waterfalls as it weaves its way through lush tropical rainforest. The rafting company works closely with the local landowners to protect the river as an important wetland (RAMSAR) site and keep the area pristine. OFF ROAD TOURS Quadbike off-road buggy tours make exciting jaunts into the unexplored interior on the big island (Viti Levu). Some companies combine these high-speed excursions with other activities like the Sabeto mudpools, ziplining, waterfall and village visits. Most off-road tours are based in Pacific Harbour, Sigatoka and Nadi. These are just a handful of activities that you can indulge in. Check out www.fiji.travel for more options.
indulge yourself
Fiji Dining Guide est b s ’ u v e L Viti
Tiffany Carroll and Tatyana Leonov took time out to discover some of the best restaurants in Fiji.
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iji is renowned for its powdery white-sand beaches and ludicrously turquoise-blue sea and travellers flock to this island paradise to unwind, explore and forget their urban existence. Today the Fijian culinary scene is attracting a new breed of travellers and its epicentre is the perpetually busy Nadi and surrounds – the place to swim and relax in the sun – and now also to eat and eat. There are excellent resort restaurants headed up by international chefs who craft gastronomic delights, a colourful market to explore, kava ceremonies and romantic beach picnics. Discovering the culinary scene in Fiji is about letting go and doing as the locals do during the day and feasting on haute cuisine at night. Or the other way around. It really doesn’t matter in Fiji. Less than 10 kilometres from Nadi, Denarau Island is home to a cornucopia of resorts, most with fabulous restaurants that offer the ultimate in dining – lavish fine diners, elegant waterfront restaurants and casual poolside hangouts – it’s all there. Local chefs are getting creative with cooking styles, sometimes fusing modern techniques with traditional cooking methods, and international chefs are bringing their own experiences and adding it to the mix. Suva on the other hand has endured living in the shadow of Nadi, its western big brother for tourism, beaches and, up until recently, its dining scene. Suva can now share the accolades of Denarau with some
of Fiji’s best restaurants serving up delicious food, unique ambience and fresh local produce. Similarly, the Coral Coast and Pacific Harbour are bursting with good restaurants, mainly at the big resorts along the coast, but also at smaller, locally run cafes as well. Our favourite Fijian Beef Curry is at Club Oceanus at Pacific Harbour.
Club Oceanus
When you’re asked if you want your curry “Fiji spicy” it’s not for the faint-hearted. Knowing this and particularly fond of spicy food, I ordered Fiji Spicy and it certainly didn’t disappoint. Club Oceanus is on the river at Pacific Harbour. A boutique resort with authentic, friendly Fijian service, the food is an unexpected pleasure. For a small resort, the menu is extensive and the seafood the freshest available Owner Rob is a professional fisherman so the best Mahi Mahi, Wahoo or Tuna is always available. They’re well known locally for their steak, but the curry is impossible to pass up. It’s not overpowering and served with a delicious dahl soup and roti. Not to be missed.
Warwick Fiji
The Warwick Fiji is part of a large international chain with
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several properties in the Pacific; this is a hotel of substance with a grand foyer and impressive entrance driveway. There are five unique restaurant choices, three bars and a romantic private island bure dining option. The culinary landscape covers Japanese, Italian, local seafood specialities, and the brasserie style Bula restaurant. The Wiki Walu restaurant is located on its own private island and is very popular with both in-house guests and visitors from neighbouring resorts – do book ahead. Pappagallo (previous page) is the hotel’s Italian restaurant located within the main hotel complex. This restaurant engaged famed Brisbane (and now Vanuatu-based) chef Mario Alfieri to design its menu. The result is authentic Italian food with a Pacific twist.
Cardo’s
The first time we went to Cardo’s we expected just another tourist trap – you know, friendly enough but a fairly common menu and touristy prices. That was about 10 trips ago and the fact we keep going back proves we were indeed very wrong about Cardo’s. You see Cardo’s is more than a restaurant and bar, its actually a second home to many locals and long term expats. They go for the cold beer and food, sure, but they also go for Cardo – the man himself. Proprietor Richard (Cardo) Slatter, a fun, feisty and flamboyant (well, perhaps well-dressed is a better description) Fijian is the life and love of Cardo’s. A sharp wit and just as sharp a tongue, Cardo has been doing what he does best – restaurants and bars for longer than he cares to admit or remember. This experience and charm is why locals, repeat guests and visiting journos keep coming back. It’s the sort of place you want to hang out with mates, or join a table of expats and locals.
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Famed for his imported NZ steak, friendly, efficient staff who get to know you by name and great cocktails, Cardo’s is an institution in Denarau. The locals go there because they know they’ll get great food, enjoy live music and watch all the big games on big screens. So if the footy, rugby, cricket or soccer is on, you won’t need to set the home recorder, head down to Cardo’s to enjoy a few drinks, a beautiful waterfront setting and the game.
Flying Fish
At Sheraton Fiji Resort’s al fresco waterfront Flying Fish restaurant (Peter Kurivita’s signature brand) Pawel Klodowski is wowing customers with polished, tantalising dishes every night. Fijian seafood is prominently featured on the menu and à la carte dining is always popular, however now there’s a new concept for patrons wanting something a little bit different. Book for a Chef’s Table dinner and get up close and personal with the creators. Private or communal, the idea is that guests watch the chefs do their meticulous work and indulge in both a degustation and show. sheratonfiji.com
Grand Pacific Hotel, Suva
The Grand Pacific Hotel is Suva’s answer to Raffles in Singapore, a colonial era masterpiece recalling the days of pith helmets and elegant cocktails by the pool. But while tradition is important here that doesn’t mean there isn’t innovation and fresh offerings on the food front. Treat yourself or someone special to a Grand High Tea every Sunday. Experience the colonial splendor of a traditional afternoon tea on the upper balcony overlooking Suva Harbour. Twining’s loose leaf tea, imported bone china, cucumber sandwiches, heavenly scones, specially prepared pastry treats and live music all coming together to transport you to another time. Also lunch or dinner seven days a week.
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