FALL 2016, ISSUE 1
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A graduate student combats creative block with something not-so-creative: following a formula. By discovering a method, he’s tapped into his creativity, generating his best ideas — just from walking around campus.
To understand their cultural significance, follow the complex history of tortillas and tacos, beginning with Spanish colonialism and ending with gentrified Farmer’s Markets. Love, family, history and culture are all deliciously wrapped up into this story on San Antonio’s most beloved food.
When the founder of Latinos for Trump announced that unfettered illegal immigration would result in “a taco truck on every corner,” the Internet rejoiced. But what does it mean when Americans are appreciative of Mexican food but apprehensive toward Mexican immigration? Why do we celebrate a people’s food but not the people making it for us?
A grandmother who was mocked for her thick accent insisted that her grandaughters learn only English, hoping that this would simplify their lives and spare them from the discrimination that she faced. But since her grandmother’s death, attitudes have changed. Being bilingual is now a benefit, not a burden. This is a woman’s story about the complexities of connecting with a culture when you don’t speak the language.
P
aisano Plus is back. New articles, new design, new student writers — y’all, this is our best issue yet. Not to mention we’re pretty pumped about discussing all things tacos.
Let’s face it, San Antonio is unabashedly obsessed with the almighty taco. We’re proud, and not without good reason. Tacos have become a staple in San Antonians’ everyday lives. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, in restaurants, from a truck (on every corner) — tacos know no boundaries or borders. Our cover story delves into this city’s extensive relationship with its favorite food. From the history of the humble tortilla to the evolution of Tex-Mex, read up on what every taco lover should know. Hear from world-renowned chef Johnny Hernandez, who’s cooked for President Obama and enjoys roaming the world, looking for food-spiration (no big deal). Also hear from UTSA’s Institute of Texan Cultures Dr. Sarah Gould on the effects Spanish colonialism and gentrification have on our beloved taco.
Viva TacoLand
Located downtown near The Pearl, Viva TacoLand is a small outdoor bar with a rich history and a killer view of the San Antonio River. Formerly a punk-dive bar known as Taco Land, the bar reopened in 2014 after being shut down for nearly 10 years. Viva TacoLand now preserves and honors the history of the location, refering to themselves as “Taco Land 2.0.”
Make sure to also check out some of our favorite taco stops (food trucks and restaurants alike) in addition to our student writers’ commentaries on topics like #TacoTrucksOnEveryCorner and one writer’s discovery of her cultural identity without speaking the language.
A familiar site for UTSA students, this taco spot’s “I love tacos so much” mural has been a favorite among college students’ appetites and timelines.
We have non-taco topics covered too with reader favorites like campus street style and student’s creative writing submissions. Also, check out a graduate student’s process for tapping into creativity in everyday life.
Besides the mural, Viva Tacoland also offers a relaxing and street-like ambiance for everyone. A great go-to place for all taco lovers and followers of Instagram-worthy photos.
So flip through, read up, get some tacos (not necessarily in that order) and dig in.
Jade Cuevas magazine@paisano-online.com
{ Paisano Plus } Magazine Editor: Jade Cuevas The Paisano Editor-inChief: Caroline Traylor Managing Editor: Brady Phelps
Raquel Simon Calderon Magazine Assistant
Assistant Magazine Editor: Raquel Simon Calderon
If you are interested in becoming a writer, hit us up! Email our editor (magazine@ paisano-online.com) or drop by The Paisano’s weekly Wednesday meetings at 6 p.m. at 14526 Roadrunner Way. No previous journalism experience required.
Adriene Goodwin
Just a curious mind and a passion for stories.
Photo Editor: Ethan Pham Account Executive: Jenelle Duff Business Manager: Will Stransky Marketing Director: Kesley Smith {Staff} Raquel E. Alonzo, Adriene Goodwin, Jessica Jimenez, Ashlee Morales, Jiwan Ninglekhu, Abby Sharp, Dylan Verdi {Cover Photo} Ethan Pham
“The taco: A handheld history”
{Advisor} Diane Abdo {Advisory Board} Stefanie Arias, Jack Himelblau, Steven Kellman, Red Madden, Sandy Norman
Dylan Verdi “Taco trucks on every corner: An analysis”
Ashlee Morales “San Antonio vs. Austin A (borderline) Texas civil war”
Paisano Plus is published by the Paisano Educational Trust, a non-profit, tax exempt, educational organization. The Paisano is operated by members of the Student Newspaper Association, a registered student organization. The Paisano is NOT sponsored, financed or endorsed by UTSA. All revenues are generated through advertising and donations. Advertising inquiries and donations should be directed towards: 14526 Roadrunner Way Suite 101 San Antonio, TX 78249 (210) 690-9301 magazine@paisanoonline.com
Jessica Jimenez
Raquel Alonzo
“No hablo español”
“Tacos as a dietary staple”
© 2016, The Paisano
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“I don’t really have much of a “style” but if I like something and it looks good on me, I put it on.” — Isabella Evangelista
“As a Muslim woman modesty is very important, but that does’t mean you cannot be fashionable at the same time. I incorporate both modesty and style into my everyday looks.” — Zahra Barsi
“Style is not being afraid to take a chance. I like being bold but not obnoxious.” — Marc diLazzaro
“ I love fashion! I like getting to wear cute clothes because it makes me happy.” — Catherine McKeever
Campus street
style
Paisano Plus went on the hunt and asked, “What does style mean to you?” Photos/Interviews Raquel Simon Calderon
“My style depends on my mood. Today I felt like being cute.” - Chelsea Thomas
“Style is how you want to present yourself, it’s a way to show your personality.”
“I wear what I like — whatever I feel comfortable in.” — Prospero Fernandez
— Kyndall Traylor
“I wear whatever expresses myself. I wear things for me, not anyone else.” — Lorelei Diener
“Style doesn’t necessarily mean fashion; people express style in many ways and one of them is clothing. I believe that style is like your signature.” — Andrea Trejo
(COMMENTARY) Eating your veggies has never been so popular. ver the past few years, vegan and vegetarian diets have become increasingly common, beginning the question why, exactly, has eating plantbased and cutting out animal products or by-products become so popular. For many people, the difference between vegan and vegetarian is almost unnoticeable. So let’s break it down. Vegans do not eat meat, fish, eggs, dairy or any animal product. Vegetarians do not eat meat or fish, but they do eat animal byproducts such as eggs and dairy. Another option would be pescetarian, which are vegetarians who eat fish and seafood. I am in the transition to animal product-free. The most common reason people decide to become vegan or vegetarian is to end animal cruelty within the agriculture industry (meat and dairy specifically) in addition to helping improve the environment and becoming an overall healthier person. A prominent contributor to this rapidly growing phenomenon is documentaries. Every year, new documentaries covering topics of sustainability, veganism and/or the agriculture industry are released, bringing attention to the repercussions of the agriculture industry and its effects. All it took for me to make a change in my diet was watching Cowspiracy: The Sustainability Secret in my environmental science class earlier this year. The film covers the effects of the agriculture industry — the negative effects on the atmosphere, the consuming of the planet’s resources, animal cruelty and the consequences these foods have on the human body. In regards to the human body, gravitation towards plant-based diets is because our bodies aren’t physically able to consume the large amounts of animal
Thinking about changing your diet? Here are four common thoughts people have when considering making a change.
products our industry supplies. At some point in our lives, almost everyone’s lactose intolerance makes an appearance because the human body isn’t supposed to digest dairy products. Some animal products have a high concentration of saturated and trans fats, which lead to health problems such as high cholesterol. When looking at contributors to greenhouse gases (gases that contribute to global warming), agriculture is a huge factor — not transportation as many tend to assume. This is due to the extensive amount of carbon dioxide and methane produced by farm animals. As the population exponentially grows, it causes a gradual depletion of land that we need to sustain life on Earth. There is a disconnect between what we consider to be “food” and that the “food” was once a living being treated with cruelty and later killed Once I made this connection, I realized that I couldn’t eat meat again. I detoxed myself from animal products cold-turkey but soon realized that being vegan is a lot harder than it seems. There are animal products/byproducts in a wide variety of food items (most you’d least expect), making it increasingly difficult to cut certain foods (ie. bread, condiments and dessert) from your regular diet. A big concern people have about veganism and vegetarianism is the lack of nutrients and minerals that are commonly found in animal products — iron in red meat, protein in meats and eggs, calcium in dairy. While it is a little more difficult to consistently obtain these nutrients on a plant-based diet, it isn’t impossible. Kale is rich in iron, beans and nuts are a substantial source of protein and alternative milks (soy, almond, cashew) have just as much calcium as cow’s milk. Dietary vitamin supplements are another great alternative for nutrients that many
Hm, I really don’t eat much red meat, poultry and/or fish.
This food has gelatin in it? Ugh, that’s too gross. I’ll pass on that.
vegans and vegetarians seek out. Veganism and vegetarianism are both lifestyles and diets. Their technicalities focus on a person’s food consumption, but the diet ultimately boils down to ethics. In regards to veganism, it is not uncommon for people to cut out animal products and byproducts not only in their diets but also in regard to their clothing and cosmetics and other household items. It is a choice to live life without supporting the agriculture industry and its effects on the environment. A couple of after effects of these diets have been the accommodation and normalization factor. Restaurants and grocery stores have opened themselves to more vegan and vegetarian options. One UTSA freshman, pescetarianturned vegan chimes in on the matter. She shared her advice based on her last five years of experience: “Trust your body and yourself…(I’ve) benefitted both mentally and physically from transitioning to vegan.” Vegetarian and vegan diets are not a trending topic but a gradual process. Many vegans start as vegetarians hoping to transition, which is my plan as well. Beginning as a vegetarian has helped my transition move more smoothly, as I am hoping to gradually remove dairy products from my diet over the next year or so. If you start pescetarian like she did, or vegetarian like I did, the transition to a plant-based diet doesn’t seem as overwhelming or impossible. Starting with a small shift is important so that your body can adapt to the change, and it’s crucial to do the research to figure out what foods you need to supplement what your body needs. But once you start, it gets easier. Knowing that you are benefitting the planet, animals and your health are just more motivations to make the change.
Abby Sharp
I’m not really a fan of honey. The bees can keep it.
I want to have an active role in stopping/ preventing animal cruelty.
Student submissions creative writing Solved Vicariously Issac Serna
There was a sense of being at home, despite the alien setting and the distance traversed. Amongst his brother’s company, settling in didn’t feel novel. “You can set your bags by the couch over there,” Osmond said. Rory bustled along with his heavy luggage. “So, what do you think, man?” he asked once his brother dropped his bags. Looking around the room slowly, Rory took in the surroundings. Chrome detailing held light from white shaded lamps standing tall. Each were erect beside the armrests of a white couch. A zebra rug mostly covered by a curious trunk that served as a coffee table lay beneath his feet. Mirrors ran along the dining area cut away from the kitchen, boasting white marble countertops. The minimalist atmosphere was new to Rory. He nodded to himself for a while. “Love it, man.” “No joke?” “No joke, I totally dig it, man.” “Word.” The two sat in comfortable silence. The gravity of being in the same room fell upon the boys. Osmond laughed, Rory grinned. Together again, the brothers were reunited. “I’ll make us a drink.” Despite Osmond’s pleading for Rory to relax, Rory stood up and accompanied his brother. Drink splashed into their glasses from the cocktail shaker. Each beverage
welcomed the plop of an olive before being placed upon a silver tray. “Alright come on man, let’s have a drink on the balcony. It’s a fine night for it.” “Yeah,” they stepped out. “This beats the cold,” Rory surmised. “Yeah man. I don’t miss it.” The exuberance and kind exchanges shared brought smiles to each brother’s face. They knew full well it’d be like this eventually, but time apart has a sharp way of wedging anxiety into the minds of many, and the brother’s time away wasn’t brief. “Man, look at my lil’ bro. You’re doing great man, love the place, the car— everything!” The smattering of compliments smacked red hues of embarrassment upon Osmond’s face. “Thanks,” he said, rather sheepishly. “Where’s your girl? You hiding her from me?” Osmond’s countenance grew anxious. “What?” Rory asked. “Nothing.” Osmond paused, took a drink and then looked at his hand for a good while. “I’m struggling with something man… It sounds stupid though.” “What’s new buddy? Spill it... C’mon man, air it out.” Osmond continued examining his hand. “It’s me for God’s sake!” Rory exclaimed. “You’re right, you’re right,” he sighed. “Well it’s my new relationship man, Celeste is exactly what I deserve, like in every way, but I want more. I walk around the mall and ache for these girls that pass by. My dick literally aches!” Rory nodded. “Will I always have this feeling of discontent, is this our curse Dad talks about?”
There was a moment of deliberation on Rory’s part. He sipped his drink and then covered his face with his palms. “I don’t know man. Do you always feel this way?” “No! No. When I’m with her, I’m happy. When she compliments me, texts she loves me, I’m so good. Peachy in fact! But I can’t be with her 24/7, I can’t be chatting her up every day, it don’t work like that…” Rory agreed, saying he had pushed past lovers away by doing just that. “Exactly!” Osmond shouted. “Being too available is such a turn off. Especially for girls man. I know.” “Stay busy then, get a hobby or something.” The phone rang. Celeste’s supernatural face gleamed on the screen of Osmond’s phone. Before answering her call, he retired to his bedroom. The balcony was quiet. Out in the night, the city below the hills murmured in the distance. Rory sipped his drink patiently, soaking in the life radiating from the concrete jungle. The inner struggles being grappled with in his brother’s room were something he knew too well. Reflecting on how he felt under similar strains, and how he feels now charmed him. A want for what one can’t have is something powerful when in a relationship. Now single, he couldn’t imagine anything better than Osmond’s position in the love-sphere. Despite that, he knew full well there wasn’t a way in hell he could give his brother that perspective. Memory taught him that as soon as you get the girl, you forget all about the struggle of not having her. The balcony door clicked open. Osmond stepped out with a sheepish look on his face.
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Dreams
Annette Barraza I ask for dreams Because all of mine are obsolete Shot, fractured, Balled up and discarded I lament the fact that Even in sleep I cannot dream They elude me like The gold rush to the unlucky The oil boom to the lazy And when I do manage to Artificially inseminate Like trying to find the end to a rainbow
Hoping to find An oasis Instead, Laboring to dig a well For my parched mind It is like finding pyrite Fool’s gold, Same exterior But still worthless Compared to the real thing And when i do Like a child and a cookie jar, No, like a child and a cookie buffet No, no like a child with a plate of
cookies intending to feed Santa Instead finds him Thinks So this is what he looks like He is real, Before. Awareness slams into me, Tearing me from my peace. Shattering my hopes That took so long To painstakingly construct.
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Sauce
Patrick Martinez Warning: Suggestive Content When I look into your eyes
I wanna give you my love.
you squeeze my lemon,
I hear waves crashing on the beach.
When I kiss your lips,
you always make
That beautiful glimmer in your eyes
and you bite my neck,
it better than before.
reminds me of the moonlight
I move down to your lips
bouncing off the deep blue sea.
And have another snack.
When I see your honeydrip,
With a smile that is branded
In less than seven minutes,
worm’s eye view,
in my mind forever, and hair
your dreams will come true
I won’t stop way
so brown and wavy like the lines
and it will last for hours.
way past the morning dew.
on a tree trunk, you can always
And as we lay,
stay at my place. Beauty like this
I’ll flip you on your back,
our bodies are one.
cannot be captured in a photograph
I’ll flip you on your tummy instead,
A few more sessions
but in the memories of a found man.
I’ll flip you so many times,
and I’ll be done.
I’m gonna fall right off the bed.
And as days past
I forget the world
You make me never
with love not lost
when I see you from above.
wanna leave that door
me and her juices
As I stroke your hair,
‘cause every time
make a great sauce.
Bramble Weed
Benjamin Shirani Bramble weed.
Unfinished deeds.
Pig feed.
Grey sky, yellowing leaves,
Lifted veil.
Tweakers paradise left for me.
Wedding day.
Changing season changing me.
Ringing ears, wringing hands. Thorns and seeds,
Creative Process Jiwan Ninglekhu
was working on a research project on discovering properties of a process in computing systems when, after a week of hard work, I met with my advisor. “You are not being creative enough!” he exclaimed, after I showed him my research results. Those words stabbed deep into my heart as my creative genius was damaged. I always considered myself to be creative person. From some independent research on creativity, I found that we as humans experience creative aspects in our everyday life, only to blindly walk past them. Creativity is an abstruse, relative term, but I believe it can be developed at some level by following a process. While it may be ironic to find creativity through a mechanic process, I find that it actually helps. Find your “what” start with “why” and get to “how”.
1. Find the what Creativity is using innovative and imaginative forms of thinking while maintaining a sense of aesthetic appeal. Defining what exactly you are looking for is the primary step (under the assumption that the ideas being
GRAPHICS: TRISTAN IPOCK
developed do not yet exist.) For example, we might want to open a new coffee shop. There are a multitude of possibilities, but the question is: what you are looking for?
2. Start with the why In my own academic research, I knew what content I was looking for but was unable to identify where to start because I needed to find the why first. The why will bring imagination — the crux of creativity.
3. Get to the how With the coffee shop example, say I would like to build this unique coffee shop because I want to deliver a special experience to coffee lovers. I would first study existing coffee shops. Examining existing facts will shed light on the remaining options. I must be willing to choose to experiment with the tools I have: my knowledgebase, intelligence and intuition.
Disinterest, Difficulty, Desire and Constraints Difficulty, disinterest and desire are the roots of creation. Even nature evolves and adjusts to changing paradigms.
Difficulty forces us to find solutions to problems that arise. Understanding
a problem by knowing its source, behavior and elements is the basis of innovation.
Disinterest forces us to find something new while desire motivates us to take that next step that inspires change. Desire is what makes us want to live a more artful life. If something is boring, we look forward to changing it. Looking at Facebook’s interface when it first started compared to its current state, there’s hardly any resemblance, because that would be boring! In order for something to improve or continue to innovate, the old dies and the new is born.
Constraints are central to creativity as well. Human beings are lucky to have intuition that allow us to identify dangers and limitations. While constraints and difficulty may sound alike, they are not the same in a creative process. Difficulty makes us think about alternatives while constraints are forces that frame creativity within requirements and give us optimality.
Tools, Mind and Action One day, I was walking by the Sombrilla at UTSA’s Main Campus and saw some litter on the ground. Not too far from the scattered plastic cups were a pair of bins: a blue recycle bin and a black round trash bin, waiting there for people with open, inviting mouths. The scene
made a lightbulb click in my mind. The idea was a mobile application in which someone recycling could participate in a reward program. Every time someone took a five second video of themselves recycling, they would be rewarded with credit in the form of sponsored prizes. I thought the app could be introduced to the Green Fund UTSA in order to create a network to help with the recycling project. This creative idea came to me based on past knowledge and the relation I made to the present scenario. Our thoughts drive us to our destiny. Our thoughts are also about defining what we care about and what we can do better. One incomplete part in this story is action. Taking action, going through the trials and tribulations associated with action is vital not only to the task at hand but also to your own personal creative growth. It may bring more difficulties, introduce us with new constraints and desire us to add new elements, but, in return, they feed back into the creative process — helping not only ourselves but also our communities.
Photo: Ethan Pham
Adriene Goodwin
You can’t have a taco without a tortilla. The tortilla holds everything together, and is the structural indicator of a taco. One could argue that the tortilla is the actual essence of a taco. The two most popular tortillas (wheat flour and corn) envelope the early origins of what we consider Mexican cuisine. The tortilla is so integral to the identity of Mexican cuisine, that its history and relationship with Mexican food and culture transcends borders and landscapes.
ut you can’t have a tortilla without the hard work of hands. Hands that belong to my grandmother, soft and worn, but strong from years of pushing down masa and building up her children. Her hands, washing over my mother’s, washing over mine, gu ide over my fingers without telling them where to dig. Our efforts overlap and collaborate; she passes everything she has worked on to me, and I will pass it on as well. Tortillas are the artistry of hands, and a testament to the corn from which masa is ground. Today, when world-renowned Chef Johnny Hernandez isn’t dazzling President Obama with Cinco de Mayo delights or catching his own pulpo in the Mediterranean, he runs a handful of unique and successful restaurants, with La Gloria, The
B
While today’s up-and-coming trendy taco fare brings the spotlight back to the corn tortilla, Hernandez notes that its fluffier counterpart is still a prominent staple of Mexican cuisine. “Flour tortillas are a very traditionally northern Mexico product,” says Hernandez. The fact that flour tortilla has remained a staple in Mexican cuisine is unsurprising, given the remnants of Spanish culture, tradition, and beliefs that still influence Latin America today. An artifact of Spanish colonialism, the flour tortilla is beloved, but burdened by a complicated history. The Institute of Texan Cultures (ITC) Lead Curatorial Researcher Dr. Sarah Gould knows a thing or two about Mexican food. She covered food customs for the “Los Tejanos” exhibit at the ITC, and she appreciates all aspects of Mexican food as authentic, not just the recent trend of street tacos. By deconstructing the dishes we most commonly consider “Mexican,” Gould depicts a cuisine that embodies assimilation and acculturation.
“I actually planted corn in my own backyard. I had to be about ten years old.” Fruteria, and El Machito based in his hometown of San Antonio. A lifelong fan of homemade corn tortillas, Hernandez reminisces about childhood farming attempts. “I actually planted corn in my own backyard,” he chuckles. “I had to be about ten years old,” he recalls, vividly noting the tiresome labor entailed with trying to maintain corn crops as a child. Hernandez remembers his father’s restaurant in the westside of San Antonio. “It was mostly comfort food,” he says, “Mexican meat and potatoes, fried chicken.” The blending of cuisines and comfort dishes by the late Mr. Hernandez appeased the palates of all San Antonians. For his school lunch, “in a greasy brown paper bag,” Hernandez notes, he’d have a taco— usually carne guisada. “I would trade them for peanut butter sandwiches a lot of the time,” he laughs. His tacos were typically wrapped in a flour tortilla.
“Spain produced lard from pig and pork,” she explains, “and they brought olive oil with them (to the New World). Rice came to Spain from the Silk Road.” And those other elements we love in our tacos, like cumin, garlic and cilantro? They’re from the Old World too. The Spanish conquistadors arrived in 16th century Mexico and were appalled by the veneration of corn by indigenous people. Chicomecóatl, Aztec goddess of sustenance (hence the corn) was a prominent icon in pre-Columbus beliefs. Incompatible with Catholic doctrine, Chicomecóatl, fellow gods and the power of corn were stamped out by conquistadors and missionaries who weaponized food to indoctrinate and convert Natives to Christianity. Wheat, as Gould explains, was a significant ingredient brought over by the Spanish because it was vital for their Eucharist wafers (the Catholic sacramental bread offering during Communion). Having witnessed how the Native peoples patted
Photos Courtesy of Johnny Hernandez
Chef Johnny Hernandez tends to his corn crops located outside San Antonio, that he harvests and sells to local restaurants.
Photo: Ethan Pham
maize into what was essentially flatbread, the Spanish borrowed this process and applied it to their own flour. “Tortilla means ‘little cakes’ in Spanish,” says Gould. With so much focus on these “little cakes,” is this article simply about tortillas? Isn’t it supposed to be about tacos? Well, you can’t have a taco without a tortilla. And you can’t have the tortillas that are so integral to Mexican cuisine without the conflict of colonialism. And while we fast-forward a few centuries to early 20th century San Antonio, we can still feel the impact of colonialism wrapped in the guise of a commoner’s meal. According to city-stats.org, roughly 43 percent of San Antonians identify as Catholic. That figure has increased roughly 7 percent since 1920s San Antonio. Despite rapid population growth in recent years, the percentage of Catholics has maintained a similar range in conjunction with population. In the early 20th century, San Antonio was still a considerably rural city, with a downtown
“Food is one aspect of culture. Culture is always evoling, so food is always evolving.”
center that housed mostly offices. The offices housed predominantly white men who worked and looked out windows, watching the south Texas sun beat down upon brown roads and brown hands. Hands that belonged to women and men out in the markets selling handmade snacks to laborers meandering in and out of the market place. Before the hipster-fied, trendy Farmer’s Markets of today, markets where farmers came together to sell and trade produce, supplies and other various goods were the norm. One such market location is where current iconic San Antonio restaurant, Mi Tierra, stands today. Here, Gould explains, a band of women infamously known as the “Chili Queens” would set up shop to sell tacos and other street foods to downtown patrons. “Tacos weren’t a meal,” clarifies Gould. “They were more of a snack to hold you over.” The word taco was originally used to describe little explosives that Mexican silver miners made from gunpowder wrapped in paper. The term was
eventually passed on into food culture and what we now identify as tacos grew in popularity. The Chili Queens and their street food were well-known and well-loved throughout late 19th and early 20th century San Antonio. Tourism came to San Antonio in 1877 with the introduction of the railroad, which brought more mouths to feed and hearts to captivate with delicious delights. While there was a genuine interest and appreciation for what the Chili Queens and other vendors served, ghosts of colonialism eventually manifested themselves in an early form of cultural appropriation. Or something Gould refers to as “food gentrification.” According to PBS, gentrification refers to “the arrival of wealthier people in an existing urban district, a related increase in rents and property values, and changes in the district’s character and culture.” Critics argue that gentrification and a whitewashing of Mexican food occurred in the early to mid-20th century, appeasing AngloSaxon palates with subdued variations of Mexican dishes. One of San Antonio’s earliest examples of food gentrification is William Gebhardt, a German immigrant who settled in south Texas and became enamored with Mexican food. Gebhardt witnessed the magic of
the Chili Queens and other Latinos/as and commercialized processed chile powder to use for cooking. As one of the early advertisements read for Gebhardt Mexican Foods Company, “The ‘Chili Queens’ may have given it the name . . . But Gebhardt gave ‘Chili’ its flavor . . . San Antonio style.” Thus the origins of the Tex-Mex food and restaurant industry began in the Alamo City. With racial segregation’s negative influence on economic and ethnic minorities, San Antonio saw the rise of white-owned Mexican restaurants. Working-class Latinos/as were marginalized from the market plaza by imposed laws and codes that subsequently made it difficult for individuals like the Chili Queens to compete. It wasn’t until the Cortez family (of Mi Tierra and Pico de Gallo) and Jacala Mexican Restaurant (self-promoted as the oldest Mexican-owned and operated restaurant since 1949) that the Latino/a began to reclaim a place for themselves within the cuisine their own cultures shaped. For Gould, food gentrification is a concern, but she maintains an optimistic outlook on the future of Mexican food. “Food is one aspect of culture,” she says. “Culture is always evolving, so food is always evolving.” Which means, sometimes a taco is not simply a taco.
Today, for example, we have Korean tacos—a testament to Gould’s tasty theory of Mexican food’s malleability. “Authentic Mexican food is a hybrid, a merging of food cultures,” says Gould. Hence, “Tacos are almost always a hybrid food.” Hernandez agrees with Gould, and he hopes to highlight facets of older customs and traditions in a way that pays tribute to indigenous practices while appealing to modern clientele who crave “authenticity.” One of Hernandez’s current projects is a corn crop about 20 miles outside of San Antonio. Returning to his curious roots and a testament to the work of hands, the crop field provides corn for all of Hernandez’s San Antonio restaurants. “We harvest it, we silo it, we stone grind it—we deliver it to the restaurants,” he says. With the induction of street tacos into popular cuisine, Hernandez has witnessed a curiosity from professional chefs for spices and flavors associated with Mexican food. “Chefs want to respect authenticity. They want to learn what is authentic, and then fusion begins. Mexican food is the ultimate fusion: it’s the Old World and New World.”
The “Chili Queens“ making tortillas (left) and tending to their vendor tent as music plays (right). Photos Courtesy San Antonio Light Photograph Collection, UTSA Special Collections -- ITC (L- 433-F and L-1632-K)
San Anto
n i o vs. Austin
a breakdown of texas’ (borderline) tac0 civil war Ashlee morales n case you were living under a rock (or outside of Texas) in 2016, you’re aware that San Antonio and Austin, TX became involved in an epic taco war. It all began in midFebruary, with the publication of an article in Austin Eater written by Matthew Sedacca crediting Austin as “the birthplace of the phrase breakfast taco.” Despite Sedacca stating that Austin was merely the birthplace of the phrase and not the breakfast taco itself, social media was in a frenzy over the article. People were outraged over the claim that Austin was the birthplace of the beloved San Antonio breakfast staple. As expected, San Antonio was set aflame, appalled that anyone could think anything taco related originated in Austin. A change.org petition began circulating which demanded “that the City of Austin throw Matthew Sedacca out of an unmarked van well outside the boundaries of the state, or make equally suitable amends…” To an outsider, all of this might sound a bit overdramatic, but here in Texas, tacos are serious business. On Saturday Feb. 27, Mayor of Austin Steve Adler officially declared war against San Antonio in the Great Breakfast Taco War of 2016. The official “war” was relatively short-lived, lasting only two-anda-half weeks from its official declaration. On Mar. 10, both cities’ mayors met in Austin and exchanged breakfast tacos from their respective
i
cities in what may have been the most delicious peace offering in Texas history. For many Texans, however, the war is far from over. Austin and San Antonio have been in quiet competition for as long as I can remember, and I don’t see that changing any time soon. The Great Breakfast Taco War was just the most tangible and recent battle. For those who reside in Austin and San Antonio, this war remains unsettled and (likely) always will. Focusing solely on breakfast tacos does both cities a great injustice and, frankly, doesn’t capture the full complexity of the taco debate. Because there are so many different (and delicious) ways to execute the creation of an amazing taco, it’s only logical that different variations of the taco are taken into account when deciding which city does tacos best. Obviously, there are some unique Austin staples with tacos that are hard to beat. Torchy’s Tacos made a name for itself with its humble beginnings and “damn good” variety. For the right price, you can buy a Democrat or Republican in any state, but it was Austin that gave us the kind that come wrapped in a tortilla and topped with delicious queso or pico de gallo. Torchy’s became a go-to spot for those visiting Austin and now has locations across the state — including one in San Antonio. Juan in a Million (an Austin staple) has also made a name for itself, especially in the realm of breakfast tacos. After appearing on Travel Channel’s Man v. Food in 2008, Juan in a Million’s monster-sized Don Juan El Grande breakfast tacos brought the modest restaurant some clout. Its affordable prices and delicious,
Graphics: Raquel Simon calderon
authentic food make Juan in a Million a worthy opponent in the taco war against San Antonio. As someone who grew up in North Austin but has always had familial (and now collegiate) ties to San Antonio, I have to say, I don’t think there is really much of a debate to be had. After moving to San Antonio, two words changed my life forever: puffy taco. Puffy tacos originated in San Antonio and are the brainchild of Henry and Ray Lopez. The two brothers were experimenting with different food items and discovered that deep-frying corn dough created puffy tortillas. They took this delicious revelation and created the beloved puffy taco. Henry’s Puffy Tacos is now a local restaurant chain, but you can find puffy tacos at various restaurants around the city. Life changing. San Antonio is already way ahead of everyone when it comes to having taco trucks on every corner. You can pick a random taco truck on any night of the week, and you’re going to get delicious, authentic and affordable tacos. In my area, off of Huebner Road, El Gallito is a popular taco truck that is always busy at dinner time and late-night hours. The mini tacos are so flavorful, you’ll swear you’re getting them from somewhere closer to the border, and that authentic quality is much easier to find in San Antonio. Although there is a clear winner in my eyes, I truly hope the Austin v. San Antonio taco debate continues forever; because as long as there is a debate, there will be plenty of delicious tacos.
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FOOD TRUCKSvs. RESTAURANTS Raquel Simon Calderon
Graphics: Jade Cuevas
Imagine your favorite taco place. Think of the smell of cilantro and grilled onions, so strong you can taste it, and the smoke rising off the hot grill from afar — but where are you? The taco places one chooses are commonly based on the authenticity, feel, flavor and (for many) the price. For some, finding an original taco truck just like in Mexico is the only place to go. For others, the comfort of an
establishment with the option to sit down to eat good food and have good conversation is best. Other times just trying to find something to eat that won’t leave you broke (looking at you, $1.99 bean and cheese taco) is the only thing that matters for some college students. Whether you prefer to sit inside or eat with some friends outside next to a truck here are some amazing taco places San Antonio has to offer:
Taco trucks
Restaurants
Ricky’s Tacos Behind a gas station on Hausman Rd, you can find this little taco truck where they sell some pretty authentic (and delicious) tacos. Their street tacos and quesadillas are the best. They have special deals on certain days, so take advantage of it! On Wednesdays, you get a free mini taco with your order of four! Disclaimer: They don’t seem to have a very concrete schedule, so don’t rely on them to be open at 8 p.m.
Taco Palenque This stop is new to the UTSA area, open for only a couple of months, but is quickly winning customers. The major advantages of this place are the location (UTSA blvd and I-10), the hours (open 24 hours for those all-nighters) and breakfast tacos (served all day). They even have agua de horchata as a soda option in addition to a convenient drivethru. Customers get access to a salsa bar amongst other things to personalize tacos. (Hint: You may also ask for a bag of totopos when you order from the drive thru).
Chela’s Tacos at The Block A very convenient location close to UTSA and a pretty extensive menu for a food truck, you can’t go wrong with this place. From street tacos, a crunchy cheese “shell” taco to a soft and harmonious cilantro-chicken, this taco truck has a wide variety of taco options to choose from. Recently, the truck decided to diversify their menu and adapt some of their tacos into nacho form as well. Not to mention, it’s a well-known taco heaven amongst UTSA students. Ask friends which taco is their favorite if you’re unfamiliar with Chela’s — you’re sure to find a plethora of answers.
La Gloria This Mexican restaurant is located close to The Dominion and is an authentic place not only with their decorations and feel but with their menu. The tacos dorados verdes are delicious, crispy with soft chicken inside and a very wellmade tomatillo salsa. The only issue with this place can be the price. With close to $6 for three, street-style tacos and a $5 charge for chips and salsa (borderline unheard of in San Antonio), this pick should be reserved for a special night out.
the compromise Taquitos West Avenue Although not technically a taco truck, this taco stop the pastor, suadero, barbacoa and, the favorite, lengua reminiscent of a taco truck and definitely tastes like one. (beef tongue), soft meat that is perfectly seasoned and Located on West Avenue (about 15-20 min from UTSA) will melt in your mouth. Parking there can be a little Taquitos West Ave serves traditional, authentic, greasy complicated, but, as UTSA students you know all about (the good kind) street tacos. They have carne asada, parking battles, and believe me, this one is worth it!
COMMENTARY
“TACO TRUCKS ON
A world with a taco truck on every corner is quite possibly the most beautiful world I could ever dream of. If I were in a beauty pageant and the judges asked, “What do you want to do to make the world a better place?” I would probably answer, “Put a taco truck on every corner!” Dos frijole y queso quesadillas con aguacate, por favor is the only sentence I want to say for the rest of my life. But Marco Gutierrez, founder of Latinos for Trump, doesn’t want to live in that world. During an interview with Joy Reid on MSNBC, Gutierrez warned against the consequences of unfettered undocumented immigration. “My culture is a very dominant culture, and it’s imposing and it’s causing problems,” Gutierrez said. “If you don’t do something about it, you’re going to have taco trucks on every corner.” Immediately, Gutierrez came under fire for his racism and the even more
EVERY CORNER” AN ANALYSIS
obvious problem — in what world is a taco truck on every corner a problem? In the days following #TacoTrucksOnEveryCorner-gate, I saw nearly every iteration of arguments in favor of taco trucks on every corner. Timelines were flooded with posts like: “Duh, everybody loves tacos!” “Job creation would be unprecedented and we could solve unemployment.” “We as a country should allow immigrants because they are hard workers and good for the economy,” and other statements to that effect. The latter argument has popular support; a 2015 survey by the Pew Research Center found that 51 percent of those interviewed agreed that, “immigrants today strengthen the country through their hard work and talents.” Depending on which side of the immigration debate you’re on, this might sound like a step in the right direction. But here’s the major underlying problem with this attitude: the belief that undocumented immigrants are “good” because of their “hard work and talents.” This line of thinking reduces
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undocumented people to their jobs - deeming them valuable based solely on their labor and economic contributions - rather than seeing their value simply because they’re human beings. Basing someone’s worth on their labor capabilities alone is dehumanizing; it homogenizes the complex history and life experiences of the thousands of people seeking refuge in the United States. Viktoria Zerda, a UTSA alumna who works with Family Endeavors (a non-profit that aims to reunite unaccompanied minors from Central America with family or family friends in the U.S.) shed some light on the current immigration situation. “I’ve worked mostly with unaccompanied minors from Central America. They have been one of the largest demographics coming into the United States for the past four to five years.” Zerda explained that most of them left their home countries because they had no family left or because they were fleeing gang violence, sexual abuse and drug trafficking. Zerda noted that the violent conditions that lead children to leave their home countries is
largely a result of “U.S. capitalist and imperialist interests that have exacerbated violence and corruption in these Central American countries.” These children undergo incomprehensible violence (intensified by U.S. economic and political interests), only to arrive in this country and be valued exclusively for their ability to add to the economy. This is a completely dehumanizing and exploitative way to view people seeking refuge. Those 51 percent who agreed that “immigrants today strengthen the country through their hard work and talents” probably meant well. Even so, this doesn’t excuse the erasure of struggle and history that is a product of equating immigrants to workers. #TacoTrucksOnEveryCorner might sound like a dream world, but we must be conscientious of the people stuck in the crossroads of this conversation — the undocumented immigrants, unaccompanied minors and refugees whose lives are worth so much more than their ability to make us tacos.
TACOS as a dietary staple.
Raquel E. Alonzo Texans can attest to one simple fact: tacos are the bomb. While an everyday norm for Texans, people from other states may be shocked to see San Antonians stuff their faces with potato & egg breakfast tacos at 7 a.m. Tacos are eaten for lunch, dinner, as pick-meup snacks and even for brunch with one (or three) mimosas. Tacos are pretty diverse and are a staple in most San Antonians’ diets. So where can these tacos be found? Here are some picks for the taco enthusiast.
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1 Breakfast Taco Fanatics For those early morning breakfast stops, The Original Donut Shop is the place to go for some cheap, satisfying tacos (and donuts). Located at 3307 Fredericksburg Rd., Original Donut Shop offers a variety of breakfast tacos. But remember to bring cash! This old-school restaurant doesn’t accept credit cards and is open Monday-Saturday 6 a.m.-2 p.m. and Sunday 7 a.m.-2 p.m. The lines can get long, but it’s well worth the wait for some tacos, donuts and fresh coffee.
Brunch lovers Ever had a craving for some tacos and a mimosa? Luther’s Café located at 1503 N. Main Ave. offers the Taco Trio which has sausage & egg, brisket & egg and bacon & egg taco plates on their brunch menu. On Sundays, they have Hangover Brunch from 3 p.m.7 p.m. for those who party all Saturday night and end up rolling out of bed late Sunday afternoon. They also have a live DJ, a bloody Mary bar and an extra-large “big boy” mimosa for those who want to keep the party going. Luther’s Café is open Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 12 a.m. and Friday & Saturday from 11 a.m. to 3 a.m.
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3 Budget-Conscious
Healthy Peeps
Sazón Mexican Café, located at 9822 Potranco Rd., has great taco plates at low prices for those working warriors taking a lunch break. This restaurant offers combination plates for those not only looking for a good taco but would also like an enchilada or chalupa on the side as. Some popular choices are carne guisada, carne asada, pork chop & beans, tripas and picadillo. They have won various awards such as the Express-News Reader’s Choice Award for best Mexican restaurant in San Antonio and two News 4 San Antonio’s Blue Plate Awards. With a reputation like that, it’s hard not to want to scope out the tacos from Sazón’s. This restaurant is open Sunday through Thursday from 6:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Friday from 6:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Saturday from 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
For those who are seeking a healthier alternative to tacos, Adelante Restaurant, located at 21 Brees Blvd, offers options for vegans, vegetarians and carnivores alike so no one in your squad is left out (unless they don’t like Mexican food; you should reconsider your friends). Not only does this place offer vegan and vegetarian options like the zucchini taco, but they also give customers the option of choosing their tortilla: whole wheat, crispy, puffy, soft corn or red handmade masa. Hours for this restaurant are Tuesday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Adelante is closed on Mondays and Sundays and only accepts cash or checks.
5 Late night-ers For those who enjoy club hopping or like to roam the city late at night, Tacos El Regio located at 2726 N. St. Mary’s St. is a local fan favorite of San Antonians and is open Monday through Saturday from 11 p.m. to 4 a.m. A second option for those who live closer to UTSA and aren’t looking to use up too much gas while hunting for tacos, The Block at 14530 Roadrunner Way hosts the Chela’s Tacos truck and is open until midnight for those late-night cravings. The hours for this food truck are Monday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 12 a.m., Friday & Saturday from 12 p.m. to 2 a.m. and Sunday from 12 p.m. to 12 a.m.
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COMMENTARY
“NO HABLO ESPAÑOL.” Identifying cultural roots based on substance rather than language.
Jessica Jimenez Graphic: Raquel Simon calderon
“Hola!” “Hola! I’m sorry. No hablo español.” “Oh, sorry…I just assumed. Aren’t you Latina?” This exchange happens often, yet it never gets easier. Not speaking Spanish has separated me from my culture for most of my life. What makes my situation even more complicated is that I grew up in a Spanish-speaking household. My great-grandma hardly knew any English, and my dad is fluent in Spanish. When I asked my dad why I was never taught Spanish, he explained that my grandma feared I would have a strong accent when speaking English. My grandma suffered discrimination due to her accent and she longed for the pattern to end with my sisters and me. To her, the best way to give us a better life than her own was to simply not teach us the language. When she passed, my dad respected her wishes and that was that. Although a little complicated, my situation is not unique; it is the case for many children of Latin-American descent. Despite being born in predominantly Latino/a communities and raised with Latino/a traditions, they are not fluent Spanish speakers. It is widely believed that you cannot fully experience a culture without knowing the language. While promoting people to fully experience a culture is a great thing, this ideal can lead to many Latinos and Latinas not feeling “Latino/a enough.” I myself used to relate to these feelings of shame and guilt until I came to this realization: Knowing Spanish—or any language—is not required for you to connect with a culture you have identified with since birth.
Knowing or learning a language is not an insignificant thing either; being bilingual has plenty of everyday benefits and (literally) pays off in the workplace. But you are not a horrible person because you are not bilingual. I came to this conclusion after meeting one of my best friends in college who is from Mexico and is a native Spanish speaker. She helped me learn more Spanish, but the knowledge I’ve gained has not had the effect I thought it would. I always thought that learning Spanish would make me feel more like a Latina and connect me to my culture on a new level, helping me feel more included by my Spanishspeaking peers. But still, I have yet to feel any shift of effect on my cultural identity. Your identity is not solely based on knowing or not knowing your culture’s language. Belonging to a culture is much more than that. Your family, personal traditions and life experiences define what it means to be Latino/a — not a language. So you can’t roll your r’s perfectly, or you don’t know how to count past diez. So what? You are a Latino/a. That lives in your heart, not in the words you say, what language you say them in or how perfectly you say those words in another language. Knowing a language does not legitimize or diminsh your cultural identity. Only you have the power to define what that looks like. So for those of you who have ever felt less-than compared to Spanish speakers or criticized for not being “Latino/a enough” — you are enough. No matter what the language may be, do not let it suppress, separate or distance you from identifying as the person you are. Don’t let anyone guilt you into subscribing to their ideas of culture — including yourself.
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