The victory suit of modern day

Dherran Titherington-Bragg explores how 1940s style influenced the fashion of today

With World War II ultimately characterising much of the 1940s, at least from 1939 to 1945, Britain sought to fit around the needs of wartime, and thus the various rationing of food and materials.1940s fashion was characterised by scarcity, practicality and ingenuity. Unadorned styles, formed from rationed fabrics, and often older pieces from one’s wardrobe, created elegant and clean outfits that still inspire today’s fashion.

You might think that, considering its nonessential status, fashion took the biggest hit but rather the opposite happened.

The CC41 scheme was introduced in late-1941 by the Board of Trade, in a bid to improve the quality and a ordability of war-time clothing. Clothing was now to be produced according to guidelines, which respected the frugality of the times, and the collective responsibility of all the nation for the war e ort. Whilst the scheme they needed clothes that would enable their performance. The styles were structured and simple, with strong military influences. Think strong shoulders, and clean silhouettes. Skirts were shortened from the preceding ankle length versions, and shorter sleeves were introduced.

1940s fashion was characterised by scarcity, practicality and ingenuity

Many styles from this wartime period are still employed in fashion today. Think Hollywood starlet, and fashion rebel, Katharine Hepburn, and her iconic insistence on wearing slacks and suit trousers. This style became part of many women’s work uniforms, slowly creeping into their leisuretime fashion. There are many Instagram influencers today who nonchalantly style them without a second thought. Hepburn’s insistence on wearing clothing in which she felt most comfortable, paved the way for a generation of women also able to express their style through androgynous clothing.

Midi skirts have made a resurgence as of late. They are reminiscent of a period where skirts were being shortened to kneelength in a bid to use less fabric in dress designs. During the War, skirts often sinched at the waist to create an hourglass silhouette, whilst today they can often sit lower on the waist for more of a 90s look.

Focusing on a few simple pieces and styling them e ectively

Still, the slightly modest length by our standards, was entirely new (and initially daring!) for the women adjusting to rationed clothing. The 1940s shirtwaist dress, or the tea dress, is another style that is yet to go out of fashion today. The dress buttoned up at the top, went in at the waist, and featured a knee length skirt. Simplistic, feminine and incredibly complimentary on all body types, it is not a surprise that women still pull them out in summertime today. Another modern similarity to 1940s fashions is the simplicity and minimalistic look of today’s designs. Examples like the ‘clean-girl’ aesthetic, and timeless capsule wardrobes donned by influencers such as Matilda Djerf exemplify this. Whilst the minimal designs of the 1940s were created out of a need for frugality, there is much to be said in favour of focusing on a few simple pieces and styling them e ectively.

Amidst a period of deep struggle and loss, British women’s fashion did not su er. It is a testament to the ingenuity of the women of the time. Not only did they maintain the war e ort back home, but they did so with pride in their appearance. So much so, that we still sport some of their looks today. Can we please bring back the victory suit?

food@palatinate.org.uk