WE LAKE IT!

Sure, Mammoth Lakes is famous for skiing, but the little town and its beautiful surroundings are worth a visit off season, too. If you are looking for a change from the heat of the California coast, make your way up into the impressive impressive mountains. Here, you can hike, swim, fish, and get chased by wild bears.

After a visit to Yosemite National Park (see issue 12), we set our sights on the ski town of Mammoth Lakes, for a little off-season hang and hiking. We approach the town from the south on US-395, the wide shadow of the towering mountains like a blanket across the landscape. It’s awe-inspiring.

We park outside the Alpenhof Lodge, our base camp for the coming days. The Californian heat we had been enduring is gone, replaced by an autumnal chill. It’s a perfect day for a sauna, but the staff informs us that the sauna is closed. This is still the summer season. But our suffering is mild; the fireplace in my room brings comforting warmth, and hints that this is a popular destination for skiers in winter.

ADRENALINE JUNKIE OR BEER ENTHUSIAST?

Mammoth Lakes is a beautiful place. Easily forgotten in the eastern edges of the Sierra Nevadas, with dazzling vistas of snowy peaks and crystal clear lakes. When it comes to outdoors activities, Mammoth Lakes has something for everyone. You can ski and snowboard North America’s best powder at Mammoth Mountain and fly fish on Little Walker Lake. There are also miles and miles of hiking trails to explore, anything from the easy Lake Mary Loop to the more challenging High Trail of Bald Mountain.

If you do not feel at home with the outdoor die-hards, don’t fret. The last few years have seen a growing number of “semi-adventurers” flocking to the majestic nature of the area. This is the category to which I personally belong.

We are the ones who don’t necessarily see ourselves as hardcore adventurers but still like to go into nature on mini expeditions, hike in lighter terrain, paddle board on calm, alpine lakes, or simply enjoy an outdoor picnic with friends. Who needs more adventure than that?

Grabbing a couple of cold ones can also be an adventure. Mammoth Lakes is home to some of California’s best craft breweries. Creating everything from award-wining IPAs and lagers to specialty beers, these breweries are sure to quench any beer enthusiast’s thirst. I took on the task of quality controlling Mammoth Brewing Company, an award-winning brewery in the heart of the little town. The brewery passed with flying colors. Their beer was as refreshing as a night swim in the lake, with flavors as varied as the surrounding landscape.

A High Altitude Plunge

While the mountains of Mammoth get more attention than the waterways, the beautifully situated Convict Lake is definitely worth a visit. Just a 15-minute drive from the hotel, a dramatic view of green-blue water surrounded by mountains appears. Hiking around the little lake takes me no more than a few hours, which is just the right amount for me.

The lake is famous both for its beauty and for its trout fishing. The name Convict Lake, however, alludes to another story entirely. Convict Lake is situated in Mono County. The Mono peoples, for whom the county is named, are an indigenous tribe who have lived here for centuries. They called the lake Wit-sa-nap, but white settlers renamed it in the late 19th century after an incident took place here.

There are plenty of good fishing opportunities in Mammoth Lakes.

THE BEAR WALKS STRAIGHT TOWARD ME, AND WHEN HE IS ONLY A FEW FEET AWAY, I HEAR MY AMERICAN FRIEND CALL OUT, “REMEMBER, IT’S A WILD ANIMAL.”

MY REACTION IS TO DO EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE TOLD NOT TO ACCORDING TO EXPERTS — I TURN AROUND AND RUN AWAY AS FAST AS MY LEGS WILL GO, WITHOUT LETTING THE BEAR OUT OF MY SIGHT FOR A SECOND.

On my hike, I imagine the dramatic events that unfolded around the lake over 150 years ago. A group of convicts had escaped the prison in nearby Carson City and hid out by the lake. A guard was shot and several others wounded in the escape. At the head of the efforts was convicted murderer Charlie Jones, well-known by Mono County and Inyo County authorities for his notorious crimes. After breaking out of the jail, Jones led his rag-tag team south toward Mammoth Lakes in search of food.

Jones and his cronies attempted to get across the mountain. Their goal was to reach the west side of the mountain ridge, where they hoped they would be safe. They camped out for the night by the lake, at the time still called Wit-sa-nap, knowing that their freedom was frail and that the long arm of the law was not far behind.

Like a scene from the finest Western film, an armed group soon appeared, and a fierce shoot-out began. Eventually, most of the escaped convicts surrendered, and 18 of their group of 29 were taken back in custody. Jones and his closest crew managed to escape, but it was a short-lived freedom. Soon they, too, were captured and killed. The remaining convicts were lynched on their way back to jail, and the lake was left with its new name.

ON A WESTERN MOVIE SET?

It isn’t hard to imagine the scene that took place here. The landscape looks like the movie set of any Western, but finding bear droppings on the path quickly snaps me back to reality. Better stay alert so I don’t become someone’s lunch. I look out over the lake, where the trout lurk. As the sun appears from behind the clouds, I cannot resist a dip in the cooling water.

There are many lakes in the area around Mammoth. For instance, there is Horseshoe Lake, a very special place. A few smaller volcanic eruptions at the end of the 1980s caused many trees around the lake to die. Today, they remain as a sculpture park. The lake is in Inyo National Forest, a part of Mammoth Lakes. If you like hiking, this is an amazing place to visit. The alpine landscape surrounding the lake makes the air cool and refreshing.

Bear Run

It’s near the end of the day, after a walk along one of the lakes, that I experience something which will make me even more humble in the face of Mother Nature. As I’m looking out over the lake, something large, brown, and furry appears in the bushes just a few yards ahead. Out steps a 500-pound brown bear. The bear sniffs around the lake shore, probably in search of fish abandoned by fly fishers. Or is he in the mood for some fresh journalist sushi, perhaps? I bring out my camera but am suddenly frozen on the spot, forgetting not just where I am but also how to breathe.

The bear walks straight toward me, and when he is only a few feet away, I hear my American friend call out, “Remember, it’s a wild animal.” My reaction is to do exactly what you are told not to according to experts — I turn around and run away as fast as my legs will go, without letting the bear out of my sight for a second. The bear lumbers on, completely unbothered by our presence and my absolute lack of bear skills. It disappears into the woods, while I have adrenaline coming out of every pore, my hands shaking uncontrollably. An unforgettable moment, to be sure.

Whether you are on the hunt for adventure or just want to escape the big city stress to relax in nature, Mammoth Lakes is a great option. There is an airport here, but San Fransisco is also just a day’s drive and a nice road trip away. Here, you will find activities to suit every level of adventurer, dramatic views, and, when the sun has set, an impressive starry sky to enjoy.

author takes a quick swim to cool down.