Sweets & Bitters QUARTERLY
IT’S GREAT OUTDOORS
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Checked cloths and chipwood baskets, family outings on summer holidays, lovers holding hands beneath a tree in a meadow, flimsy paper plates and spectacular views: this is the language of picnics. Defined by personal and collective nostalgia, by images from movies and art, the ritual goes like this: pick an outdoor location, choose what you’ll eat there, pack your food, and go enjoy your meal in place you chose. Other than the good fortune of beautiful (or at least tolerable) weather, you don’t need a special occasion for a picnic–it creates its own. Instead of eating out, how about eating outside? Whether an elaborately planned party at the beach or a bagel eaten while sitting on a park bench, your meal and the place you eat it will feel special. Appetite and sunshine enhance a meal more then the finest culinary prowess and high-end service ever could, and when you go out to the park instead of a restaurant there’s no waiting for a table and no one rushing you along. In this issue you’ll find inspiration for three picnics. Try to plan ahead, though many of these recipes are easy to throw together spontaneously. Make pickles or preserves and do a little prep a day or two before your picnic to be out the door in a snap. But if that’s too much trouble, just pick up some good jam and bakery scones, or a sandwich from that great corner deli, and get outside!
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RISE AN 4
ND DINE 5
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SWEET HERB SCONES QUICK CITRUS JAM COLD BREW COFFEE
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A picnic needn’t always happen at lunch time. How about meeting your sweetheart in the park before work, or relaxing outside with the Sunday paper? Enjoy the morning light while sipping iced coffee and eating fresh scones slathered with homemade jam. It’s easier than you think — the jam and coffee can be made ahead, and scones are quick to prepare and nearly foolproof.
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THING 17
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HUDSON ST. SANDWICH QUICK SRIRACHA PICKLES JAMMY OAT BARS BERRY LEMONADE
WITH GIN OR WHISKEY SPIKE
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What’s the best way to enjoy a day at the beach? Lounging on colorful towel with everything you need within reach. Bring a cooler stuffed with big sandwiches, crunchy pickles, icy lemonade and chewy cookies. Pile in some stone fruits too — things that are only good in the height of summer — peaches, cherries, nectarines–and maybe a bag of chips. Don’t forget to pack a trashy book and plenty of sunscreen.
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These are the easiest pickles ever; they take about five minutes to make. The sriracha does all the work of seasoning, so you don’t even need to peel garlic! These aren’t the kind of pickles you’d put up for next winter, but I doubt you could resist eating them that long anyway.
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QUICK SRIRACHA PICKLES RECI P E A DA P TS TO T HE QUA N T I TY O F CU CUMBER S
cucumbers, preferably English, Persian, or Kirby vinegar, white or cider
cucumbers, preferably English, Persian, or Kirby
kosher salt
vinegar, white or cider
sriracha
kosher salt
1. Cut the cucumbers into whatever shape appeals to you. Pack them into a jar, leaving at least half an inch of space at the top. Fill the jar halfway with vinegar, then fill it the rest of the way with cold water, so the liquid covers the pickles but isn’t spilling over the top. Add a heaping spoonful or two of salt, more than you might think. Squeeze in some sriracha: if you like it hot, use a lot. I like just enough to tint the water pink, so they’re flavored but not really spicy.
sriracha
2. Close the jar and shake it. Put the pickles in the fridge, and wait at least three hours before you eat them.
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This recipe is how summer baking should be done: it only takes a few minutes to mix, and you can go sip something cold while they bake in a not-terribly-hot oven. With all the oats and fruit in these, you can even rationalize that they’re good for you. They keep well for several days, and are sturdy enough to take to the beach. I once baked fifteen dozen cupcakes in a bikini (and an apron, for safety). It was in the high nineties and humid outside, hotter in my top-floor apartment, and even hotter with the oven on. I had no air conditioner, and two events to cater. I’m proud of my toughness, but summer baking is best kept simple. Grab an icy drink and pop a batch these in the oven — save your swimwear for the beach.
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JAMMY OAT BARS MA K ES 16 BA R S
1 cup butter (2 sticks) 1 ½ cups dark brown sugar 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 teaspoons lemon zest 1 tablespoon vanilla 2 cups flour 1 cups oats (not instant) ½ cup sliced almonds, crushed* 1 ½ cups blackberry (or other) jam sea salt flakes, for finishing * If you have a nut allergy, substitute more oats for the almonds
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1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Prepare a 9” x 12” baking pan (or something close). Spray it with cooking spray. Smooth a piece of baking parchment over the bottom and sides of the pan. Crease the corners, and snip away the extra parchment. 2. In a small bowl, mix the flour oats and cinnamon. With an electric mixer, cream the butter, sugar and salt together until thoroughly combined. Mix in the lemon zest and vanilla. Add the flour and oats to the butter mixture in two parts, beating until just combined. 3. Press half the dough into the bottom of the pan to make and even layer of crust. Spread the jam on top. Crumble the rest of the dough over the top. Bake for 60-70 minutes, rotating once.
4. Sprinkle sea salt liberally over the top while they are still warm. Once cool, lift the whole thing out of the pan by pulling up the edges of the parchment. Transfer it to a cutting board, and cut into bars. 5. If you want to be really cute, wrap each bar in parchment, and tie with a piece of baker’s twine.
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MANHA AT SU 40
ATTANS UNSET 41
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DEVILED EGGS WITH PICKLED SHALLOTS AND BUTTER LETTUCE
CLASSIC MANHATTAN WITH GOOD COCKTAIL CHERRIES
WHISKEY– SOAKED CHOCOLATE CAKE
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Sometimes dessert is really the main course. It’s a shame to fill up on dinner when there’s something so decadent to enjoy after. Here is a light menu for a sunset picnic with a grand finale of whiskey-soaked chocolate cake. Make a tray of deviled eggs and a pitcher of Manhattans. Bring these, some proper cocktail glasses and maybe a candle to your rooftop at dusk (or to your stoop, or yard). Silverware is optional. Sip slowly, nibble on eggs, stare at the sky and let the conversation ebb and flow. When you’re still a little hungry, and dusk is turning to dark, it’s time for dessert. Pour another cocktail and dig into the cake. 43
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