t
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geek chic meets southern charm
September oaks: The winery of the south
breaking the rules with artist gina phillips required reading: 50 books you must read this fall September 2013 / Issue 4
Table of contents 4
Letter from the co-editors
6
Behind the Scenes
8
Currently
See what the editors are into this month
The Paprika Belle & Beau
Our picks for the best of back-to-school style
10
Required Reading 12 Our list of 50 books sure to inspire you this fall
Paprika Southern
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16 How to Avoid Fashion Tragedy 20
Syzygy The work of artist Gina Phillips
28 Geek chic meets southern charm Charmed
54 Lilly by Design
We chat with Associate Fashion Designer for Lilly Pulitzer Bridgette Moore
Dixie 59Sipping The winery of the South
66
Earnest Indulgences...and Shoes
Chocolate and shoes in Baltimore
Game Day
sisters hit the 72 Two ballpark in style
The Gallery
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Paprika Southern Recommends page 3
Issue 4 / September, 2013
Letter from the co-editors September is a time of both nostalgia and new beginnings. School starts, new clothes are purchased, and notebooks filled with fresh paper. The air is (theoretically) fresh and crisp. This time engenders memories of childhood, and we in Savannah who happen to be transplants to the region are also nostalgic for the phenomenon known as seasons. This month our issue is filled with both memories and beginnings. Featured are people who are embarking upon careers and projects about which they are deeply passionate. This issue also signals a beginning for Paprika Southern, with our inaugural fashion shoot, Charmed. We love this time of year, and look forward to moving out of summer and into fall with relish.
The Team Bevin valentine Co-editor
siobhan egan Co-editor
Krystal Pittman Baker Advertising
if you are interested in purchasing photographs from the magazine, please contact mail@paprikasouthern.com Paprika Southern
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Contributors
Bess Bieluczyk was born and raised in the Connecticut suburbs. She received her MFA in Photography from Savannah College of Art and Design and her BA from Sarah Lawrence College in Bronxville, NY. She is an active, exhibiting photographer and an administrative coordinator at Johns Hopkins University.
Jay Gould is an artist and a member of the faculty at the Maryland Institute College of Art (MICA). Originally from Minneapolis, Minnesota, Gould received his B.F.A. in photography from the University of Wisconsin and his M.F.A. from the Savannah College of Art & Design in Georgia. His work integrates scientific topics into photographic projects.
Mary Melissa Johnson is an innovative and multi-faceted creative consultant. A mixture of everyday life, pop culture, literature and art inspires her unique, yet sometimes eccentric style.
Kelly McCarty has lived in Roanoke, Virginia her entire life. The kind of Southern she is more like Duck Dynasty than Gone with the Wind. She once uttered the words, “Don’t give any moonshine to the dog.” Kelly has a B.A. in Communication Studies and Spanish from Hollins University.
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Behind the scenes in September
Behind the scenes shooting our Charmed feature, with model Lacey, hair/make-up guru Megan, and stylist Mary
In the vines at September Oaks Vineyards in Ridgeland, SC
Siobhan photographing artist Gina Phillips and her gallery installation at Non-Fiction Gallery in Savannah
Paprika Southern
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Follow paprika southern
Instagram / Twitter / Facebook We love sharing sneak peeks of what we’re up to throughout the month, as well as connecting with our readers! Stay in touch and a get a behind-the-scenes look at what’s coming up by following us Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook.
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Issue 4 / September, 2013
Currently... See what’s inspiring the co-editors this month!
I love a good fall-scented candle to evoke the feeling of crisp leaves, scarf-wearing, and cool weather. Bevin I’m currently loving the color combination of black and white. It’s simple but chic and dominating my fall wardrobe. This dress from Madewell would be perfect for work or play.
Penelope, by Rebecca Harrington, is the quintessential back-to-school read. It follows the misadventures of spectactularly awkward Harvard freshman Penelope and is a brilliant send-up of the college experience. Paprika Southern
I recently purchased The Southern Vegetarian and it has quickly become a favorite. It contains vegetarian versions of southern staples like red beans and rice and even chicken and waffles.
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I love the fall! Every year I start fall early by indulging in Pumpkin Beer. I love to try any and all brands. Siobhan
Currently reading
I first heard Lana Del Rey on my Florence and the Machine station on Pandora. She has a beautiful voice and her music is somewhat dark and haunting. Her song “Young and Beautiful: is also on The Great Gatsby soundtrack.
Another Pandora find, Lindsey Stirling stands out to me because her music is all instrumental. She’s a classically trained violinist who plays funky upbeat tunes.
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The Paprika Belle & Beau for the belle...
Ornamental Things Necklace, $42 / Shop Ruche Dress, $72.99 / Madewell Backpack, $248 / Kate Spade Bangle, $78 / Seychelles Shoes, $90 / Rifle Paper Company Notebook, $10 Paprika Southern
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...and the beau
J. Crew Elbow-Patch Sweater, $128 / Bunny’s Goods Messenger Bag, $139 / Gap Jeans, $69.95 / Banana Republic Boot, $168 / Gap Scarf, $23.96 page 11
Issue 4 / September, 2013
Required Reading
September is synonymous with backto-school time, and we at Paprika Southern wanted to compile a backto-school reading list--with a twist. We asked friends and contributors to pick their top five reading picks. What resulted is an ecletic mix of classic and contemporary literature.
MERYL TRUETT PROFESSOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY The Great Gatsby, F. Scott Fitzgerald The Corrections, Jonathan Franzen
Think of it as books you wouldn’t mind being required to read, or--in some cases--the books that should have been assigned, but never were. Happy reading! To Kill a Mockingbird, Harper Lee Deliverance, James Dickey The Secret History, Donna Tartt Paprika Southern
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zach powers author
Kelly McCarty Customer Service Love in the Time of Cholera, Gabriel Garcia Marquez
anthony garzilli newspaper editor/manager The Brothers Karamazov, Fydor Dostoevsky The Heart is a Lonely Hunter, Carson McCullers Grapes of Wrath, John Steinbeck
Swamplandia!, Karen Russell The Instructions, Adam Levin
Song of Solomon, Toni Morrison
Bluets, Maggie Nelson
The Lover, Marguerite Duras
A Wild Sheep Chase, Haruki Murakami
Catch-22, Joseph Heller
Gilead, Marilynn Robinson
No One Belongs Here More A Prayer for Owen Meany, Than You, John Irving Miranda July
The Metamorphosis, Franz Kafka
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josh jalbert professor of photography Opus Posthumous, Wallace Stevens
alysia gray painter writer The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy, Douglas Adams
The Small Utopia: Ars Multiplicata, Charles Esche
Nine Stories, J.D. Salinger
The Waves, Virginia Woolf Bento’s Sketchbook, John Berger Pedagogical Sketchbook, Paul Klee Notations, John Cage Paprika Southern
bess bieluczyk photographer/ Administrative coordinator Jane Eyre, Charlotte Bronte
Pale Fire, Vladimir Nabakov I Capture the Castle, Dodie Smith The Awakening, Kate Chopin
Jellicoe Road, Melina Marchetta His Dark Materials Trilogy, Philip Pullman Workin’ It!: RuPaul’s Guide to Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of Style, RuPaul page 14
krystal baker advertising & marketing coordinator
siobhan egan co-editor
bevin valentine co-editor
The Hiding Place, Corrie ten Boom
The Particular Sadness of Lemon Cake, Aimee Bender
The Chosen, Chaim Potok
The Sun Also Rises, Ernest Hemingway
A Year in Provence, Peter Mayle
The Count of Monte Cristo, Still Life with Woodpecker, Alexandre Dumas Tom Robbins The Pursuit of Love, Nancy Mitford
This Side of Paradise, F. Scott Fitzgerald The Paris Wife, Paula McLain The Silver Linings Playbook, Matthew Quick
The Book Thief, Markus Zusak
Emma, Jane Austen
13 Reasons Why, Jay Asher
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The Virgin in the Garden, A.S. Byatt Issue 4 / September, 2013
how to avoid fashion tragedy by kelly mccarty
There is a lot of fashion
advice out there—“Are Polka Dots in for Fall?,” “10 Ways to Tie Scarves,” “How to Create the Perfect Smoky Eye”—but I am not here to quibble about minor fashion details and it’s not just because I am in desperate need of a drag queen who can teach me how to put on eye shadow. No, I am here to address the egregious fashion and style travesties that I witness on a daily basis.
Wearing pajamas in public is only for toddlers and Hugh Hefner.
expecting you to put on a whalebone corset and a hoop skirt to go to Wal-Mart, but is a pair of jeans really too much to ask? There is no exception for being sick, either. If you’re too sick to get dressed, you’re too sick to be out in public and you should probably be in the hospital.
Dress appropriately for your age. If you’re old enough to have graduated from elementary school, you’re too old to have cartoon characters on your clothing. No kittens, no puppies, no Tweety Bird, no Winnie the Pooh, no Betty Boop. You can wear your Mickey Mouse shirt if you are actually within the confines of a Disney theme park. This rule also applies to the un-ironic wearing of holiday sweaters. Wearing them to ugly holiday sweater parties is acceptable. The good news is that you can wear these things again once you’re over seventy. If you are a little old lady and you want to wear your light-up Christmas tree sweater or your T-shirt with the picture of kittens playing with yarn out to dinner at four-thirty in the afternoon, go for it.
If you’re under the age of two and you’re wearing your pajamas in the Piggly Wiggly, people will say, “How adorable. That baby has her jammies on.” It’s not cute when you’re thirty-two. I once saw a grown woman walking around in Kroger with those fleecy blanket material pajama bottoms—with Eeyore printed on them. To put it delicately, hers was a rather large behind and the Eeyore pajama pants did not do anything to make it look smaller. My neighbor down the street is always wearing a grubby nightgown/housedress—if it’s ten in the morning, if it’s two in the afternoon, if it’s eight at night. I’m starting The flip side of dressing appropriately for your age is people who keep dressing like to think that she never gets dressed. teenagers long after their yearbook picI know someone is going to whine, “But tures have started to fade. If the deejay at pajamas are so comfortable.” No one is your high school prom played Madonna Paprika Southern
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she found out that I wore denim to a funeral. The clothing that you wear to funerals or weddings should not be the same clothing that you put on to wash the car. I want to threaten to haunt anyone who wears jeans to my funeral, but I have a legitimate fear that if I live a normal lifespan, people will be wearNot every occasion ing pajamas to the funeral home by the is a sexy one. A friend told me that he witnessed a girl time I die. wear a mini-skirt to her grandfather’s fuGet the support you need. neral. I don’t care if you have better legs than Heidi Klum, Grandpa’s funeral is not Going braless in public is for nineteenyear-olds who have A-cups. If people can an appropriate place to show them off. tell that you’re not wearing a bra, then you Every day is not casual Friday. need one. Floppy is a positive description When I see what some people wear to wed- of bunny ears, not of your bosom. Get dings, I wonder how they are managing to get a proper bra-fitting and invest in quality through life with no dressy clothing at all. “My bras. You won’t regret it. Do not forget friend is getting married, better break out my that your bathing suit needs to give you most formal pair of cargo shorts.” No one ex- the same level of support that your bras pects you to own a tuxedo, but you seriously do. If you need underwire bras with four don’t even have a pair of slacks? At the very hooks in your everyday life, you’re not goleast, every man needs a shirt that buttons, a ing to be able to stuff your chest into a tie, and a pair of dress pants. Every woman tankini with no support. needs a nice dress or a blouse with a kneeBald can be sexy. length skirt or slacks. No, the dress you wear clubbing is not an appropriate choice for your Balding cannot. cousin’s church wedding. I don’t care if you Men have it a lot easier than women when have to purchase these items from Goodwill, it comes to fashion. Dudes can pretty much just do not wear shorts to a wedding. declare their loyalty to their favorite college football team with every article of clothing Even if your family has lived in Ala- they own, then throw on a suit and tie when bama for five generations, you are not they need to dress up, and totally get away a proper Southerner if you have ever with it. But when it comes to hair loss, many worn jeans to the funeral home. I feel men stumble. Gentlemen, if you are noticelike my mother would pull my hair if ably balding, shave your heads. Everything and Boy George because they were topping the charts at the time and not because your prom was eighties-themed, then you’re too old for sparkly halter tops and pants with words scribbled across the behind.
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you do to cover up the bald spots looks worse than actually being bald. Don’t try to wind your last three hairs around your head. Don’t do whatever it is that Donald Trump has done to his hair. Don’t grow the rest of your hair out long and scraggly and think it makes up for your bald spot. Nothing is worse than that horseshoe-shaped ring of hair surrounded by a humongous bald area. Bruce Willis. Michael Chiklis. Vin Diesel. All bald and arguably sexy. Bald says, “I’m here to blow stuff up, kill some terrorists and rescue the beautiful leading lady.” That horseshoe-shaped ring of hair says, “I’m here to do your taxes.”
No rhinestone cowboys. If the closest you have ever come to riding a horse was saddling up on the merrygo-round and the nearest you have been to cattle was at a petting zoo, a cowboy hat should not be part of your daily attire. I’ve actually had someone tell me, “This is my special occasion cowboy hat.” I’m not sure what kind of special occasion requires a cowboy hat—a black-tie rodeo?
Birds should not be able to make a nest in your beard. The wild, unkempt, mountain man-style beard is a fashion no-no. I live in Southwestern Virginia and almost everyone I know—from my dad to my coworkers to the customers at work—is enamored with Duck Dynasty. Not once have I ever heard anyone say, “Wow, those guys on Duck Dynasty sure are handsome.” Paprika Southern
Tattoo yourself with caution. I have seen some tattoos that were true works of art but I’ve seen a lot more that were works of drunken stupidity. I saw a woman in the Kroger whose entire calf was taken up by a gigantic tattoo…of Tinkerbell. No one over the age of four should love Tinkerbell that much. I can’t even count the number of dumb girls who get tattoos of dolphins because they love the ocean. Be original, get a manatee. I met a guy who literally had every cliché tattoo—the barbed wire on the bicep, the zodiac sign, the cross, the Asian lettering that was supposed to say “strength” which probably really said “Bathrooms are on the left.” However, the worst tattoo that I have ever seen was a man who had a tattoo of the peace sign in the colors of the Jamaican flag. Not only was this dude not Jamaican, he was a ginger, which brings me to another important life lesson, “Smoking lots of weed does not magically make you Jamaican.” I asked him if it was to celebrate his Jamaican heritage and he didn’t even realize that I was making fun of him. If you don’t want strangers in the grocery store to judge you, then pay just a tiny bit of attention to your personal appearance. You don’t need to read every issue of Vogue to know that you ought to put a bra on when you leave the house, run a brush through your hair, and put your Tinkerbell tattoo somewhere that other people can’t see it. If you do nothing else, please change your clothes when you get out of bed in the morning. page 18
your ad here contact advertise@paprikasouthern.com for rates
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text by bevin valentine photography by siobhan egan Paprika Southern
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Syzygy: 1) The union of opposites 2) An alignment of celestial bodies, such as one that occurs in an eclipse 3) A unit of poetic meter consisting of two feet, usually different jects become anonymous in their treatyzygy pronounced ment. siz – i – gee) is a philosophy proposed by Carl Jung in which psychological balance Three different photographic processes is achieved by the union of the male and are at work in the installation. First, we female aspects of self within the individ- have what can be termed—on one levual mind. It is also the title of recent Sa- el—the “original” artwork. These—the vannah College of Art and Design pho- centerpieces of the show, both literaltography M.F.A. recipient Gina Phillips’ ly and figuratively—are inkjet prints on thesis show. copper mesh, suspended from the ceiling by fishing line. Next, come what Gina The show was installed in May at Non-Fic- terms “by-product prints.” These prints, tion Gallery in Savannah, and “installed” framed and installed on one gallery wall, is the key word. Gina’s work as photog- are lightly rendered, evincing an almost raphy is distinguished by its break with ghost-like quality. Finally, hung on the tradition. Rather than the standard opposite wall, is a series of photograms. large-format photographs, framed or face-mounted, hung at eye level and even- Each process is related to one another ly spaced, Gina’s work represents a play and one derives from the previous. Let us between tradition and innovation, be- take them in order, with the copper mesh tween two dimensions and three, between prints, as the initial incarnation—saving shadow and light, and between playing by the digital file—coming first. The copper the rules and breaking them. material represents the sculptural aspect of the show. Gina describes being drawn Gina’s work explores concepts of iden- to the material, which, though similar to tity as influenced by the idea of syzygy. fabric, has a malleable quality that allows Visually, the work consists of portraits— it to be sculpted, for its “intrinsic duality.” simple portraits, with plain backgrounds, Copper, as metal, is a material associated referencing the style of Robert Map- with strength and stability, yet this mesh plethorpe. There exists no pretension at format is pliable and subject to molding revealing the inner psychology of the in- at the hand of the artist. After printdividual sitter—rather the portrait sub- ing on this alternative substrate, Gina
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Installation view of the gallery page 23
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Two copper mesh pieces, seen with projections on muslin behind them
a “happy accident.” In order to put copper mesh through an inkjet printer, it was necessary for Gina to apply a medium that allows the mesh to take the ink and to back the mesh with a more uniform material— simple heavyweight paper. Upon initially removing this paper from the mesh, she discovered ghosted images on the backing paper. They are created as some of the ink laid down on the mesh seeps through onto the carrier paper, and, due to the variant nature of the process, no two are completely alike. The (Ink Aid) medium applied to the copper dries in a different way with each piece, resulting in myriad textures and patterns. It is in this way, Gina muses, that the The “by-product prints,” with their almost by-product prints become even more of an translucent quality, are what can be termed “original” than the mesh pieces. sculpts each print in a bas-relief to add a three-dimensional quality to the piece. She cites her interest in challenging the conventions of photography, wanting to create something with volume in a traditionally flat medium, as the impetus for this work. Each print is suspended from the ceiling and floats in the center of the gallery, about a foot away from a white muslin sheet. Viewers are provided with small flashlights and encouraged to shine them at each piece in turn, resulting in a projection on the muslin sheet that alters, disappears, and reforms in turn, according to the viewer’s whim.
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A “by-product print” Issue 4 / September, 2013
visit gina’s website
watch a video of gina’s work A photogram Paprika Southern
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Finally, we have the photograms. A photogram is created by placing an object with some amount of opacity between a light source and light-sensitive photographic paper. This process references Gina’s interest in taking something initially three-dimensional—a person— and making it two-dimensional—a photograph—then taking it back to three dimensions—the mesh sculpture. She wondered if there was a way to make it two-dimensional again, and landed upon the photogram process. This back and forth between processes, between two dimensions and three, and among the multiple renderings of a singular image, is at the heart of Gina’s explorations of identity. We all, whether intentionally or not, have different identities. What we display to the world is different than when we are alone, and the identities only multiply from there. Who we are separately to our parents, friends, employers, children, significant others, teachers, or coffee baristas is unendingly disparate and complex. Just as how the identity portrayed on the copper mesh varies from its by-product image, so do we filter how we create and meld our own identities. Perhaps the most compelling parallel to this given exists in the interactive facet of the show. The viewers shine flashlights on the mesh sculptures to project a shadow-version on the muslin backdrop, but these projections are infinitely variable. With the movement of a page 27
viewer’s wrist, a slight change in angle, a step closer or farther back, the projection shifts, flickers, and transforms. The nature of the accidental and the variable is central to the work. In addition to its hand in the genesis of the by-product images, it is also at play in the show itself. Because the muslin is translucent, a viewer can stand on the opposite side and see the projections from the other side, watching how other attendees create a perpetual cinematic projection in which the viewer has no hand and never sees the original piece. Gina relates this incarnation of her work to the shadows in Plato’s cave—pale copies of the original that nevertheless must take the place of the original when the viewer has no knowledge of it. As mentioned previously, the copper mesh pieces are hung by fishing line from the ceiling, which is secured to the mesh by small magnets. As I visited the show, due to a passing breeze, the magnets on two nearby pieces became stuck to each other, creating an entirely new dimension to the work—attraction and repulsion— in which, by chance alone, it becomes self-interactive. The human mind is an impressive thing; it is also fragile and convoluted. In the concept of syzygy it is necessary to bring these different aspects of self—the shadow, the light, the public, and the filtered— into balance. In magnificent fashion Syzygy speaks to the complexity of this quest. Issue 4 / September, 2013
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Charmed
Geek chic meets southern charm
Photography Siobhan Egan Styling Mary Melissa Johnson Hair & Make-up Megan Mateo Model Lacey Miklosovic special thanks e. shaver bookseller, foxy loxy cafe page 29
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Knitted skirt available at Custard Sweater available at Target Mother necklace available at Red Clover page 31
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Tapestry shorts available at Red Clover Sleeveless sheer lace collar shirt available at Red Clover Lemmiki bag available at Satchel Kitty Siegel leather cuff available at Seeking Indigo Mother necklace available at Red Clover Stone earrings available at Jewelmint.com Music box necklace available at Jewelmint.com page 37
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Dress available at Red Clover Silver flying owl necklace available at Custard Lemmiki bag available at Satchel page 40
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Telescope necklace available at Custard Silver Flying Owl Necklace available at Custard Reversible necklace available at Red Clover Bahgsu mooncycle ring from Seeking Indigo page 43
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Dress available at Red Clover Reversible necklace available at Red Clover Kitty Siegel leather cuff available at Seeking Indigo Telescope necklace available at Custard Paprika Southern
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Dress available at Red Clover Boyfriend cardigan available at Target Mother necklace available at Red Clover Paprika Southern
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Lilly by Design by bevin valentine
The
words
“fashion
designer” conjure up big things—glamourous runway shows, champagne with the rich and famous, and styling the stars. But who attains this lofty status? Those who have reached the top have worked hard to get there, and countless more aspiring designers toil away in the industry every day. Jobs at every level—from intership to head designer—are competitive. We at Paprika Southern thought it would be fascinating to get the perspective of a young woman who, at the age of twenty-five, is employed by the iconic Lilly Pulitzer corporation as a designer. Southern favorite brand Lilly Pulitzer is known for bright, cheerful colors and memorable prints. Associate Fashion Designer Bridgette Moore was kind enough to answer our questions from the viewpoint of an industry insider. Paprika Southern
Tell us a little about your background. I was born and raised in Richmond, VA. My father, who works for Universal Leaf Tobacco Company, traveled all over the world. So when I was 11 we moved to Surrey, England for a couple years, then to Geneva, Switzerland, and then back to Richmond for my senior year of high school. Once I graduated, I attended Savannah College of Art and Design in Savannah, GA. I received my B.F.A and my M.A. in Fashion Design there. During my time at SCAD I interned for the Richmond Ballet’s Costume Shop for a couple summers in Richmond. I later interned for New York & Company in NY in their Streetwear Department. Before I graduated grad school in 2011 I accepted my first job at Lilly Pulitzer as the Assistant Fashion Designer
of Woven Dresses. Then this year in April I became the Associate Fashion Designer of Woven Dresses and Embellishments. How did you become interested in fashion? I became interested in fashion when we lived abroad in Europe. Living and travelling through the European countries really opened my eye to many brands that girls as young as elementary school were carrying and wearing. It is a lifestyle over there. You’re in such close quarters with some of the most well known couture houses and lace factories. It was hard not to take notice. I was immersed in it and loved it. I remember I immediately started paying less attention in my physics class and was instead drawing dresses on the sides of my papers. page 54
Bridgette Moore, left / Bridgette’s workspace, right; images courtesy of Bridgette Moore
What does your position at Lilly Pulitzer entail? As Associate Fashion Designer of Woven Dresses and Embellishments, I, with a couple other designers in the Woven Dress category, design our woven dress line at Lilly Pulitzer. In addition to designing the dresses, I also take a lead in designing what we call “artworks.” These are any top-applied embellishments such as beading, soutache, some embroipage 55
dery and much more. Can you describe a typical day at your job? What is special about working at Lilly, that I think stands out over a lot of other brands, is color. When I go to work everyday, I work surrounded by fun, loud, outgoing colors and prints which makes it so much easier to go through the fun, and not so fun, day-today tasks. While we do have somewhat
of a day-to-day routine, what I like about the fashion industry is that each day will bring something new. My days are filled with constantly checking email, researching for new inspiration on various websites, looking at runway shows, attending fittings, drawing out my latest artworks, sketching new designs, attending meetings that are meant to edit our latest season’s line to make it the best of the best, assisting my boss in any way possible and much more. I find myIssue 4 / September, 2013
self often doing fun experiments too, such as being outside spray painting dresses, or trying to mix dyes to find the right new pink color for some fabric. Every day brings something new. What is your design process like? It always starts with inspiration. Both in my personal design life and in my work design life, we always start with a general concept that gets the juices going. From there, the color story and fabrics are picked to fit the concept or inspiration. Then I research current trends and runway shows to find new details that would be relevant for our customer and transform them in ways that I feel she would like to wear them. This is just the beginning. We tend to work one year ahead with the season that is currently in stores. Therefore, we will continue to edit and redesign all the way up until the line goes into production. The lines that we create have to be the best for our customer so we don’t stop thinking Paprika Southern
about it and fixing it until Lilly just hit stores this past the last possible minute. spring. Seeing strangers on the street wear my designs Can you tell us about for the first time was very some of the most mem- surreal. The best ones are orable or exciting proj- the dresses that also have ects you’ve worked on? embellishments on them The first big project that that I have designed. Seewas pretty memorable was ing someone else in the making a bridal gown for a world enjoy my designs as competition with BRIDES much as I do thrills me. magazine in 2010. The entire skirt of the gown was Where do you find inmade of bleached peacock spiration when designfeathers. I absolutely loved ing? the project and the dress. Everywhere. I most often I didn’t win, but I made it get inspiration from travto the semi-finals and even elling. Seeing different lifethat was a huge deal for styles, patterns, and colors me. from different areas inspires me the most. HowThe next exciting project ever, sometimes a simple for me was when I was in- trinket or piece of fabric terning for the Richmond can start a whole new conBallet. I helped work on, cept as well. repair and revamp some of the costumes for their per- How far out are you formance of the Nutcrack- designing—one season er. The next winter I went ahead, or more? Does to see them perform it, and it ever get confusing? was so excited to know I We design one year ahead was a small part of such a of what season is currentgreat performance. ly in stores. But we also work on three seasons at My most recent moment the same time. So for Lilly, that has stuck out was very Spring 2013 has finished recent. My first designs for being delivered in stores. page 56
We just wrapped up delivering Summer 2013 in stores and just started delivering Fall 2013. So at work, Spring 2014 is now going into production, Summer 2014 is at a strong stage but will still be tweaked until it goes into production, and we are in the very beginning stages of designing Fall 2014.
is not being too attached to your designs. In fashion every single piece that goes into your stores needs to be perfect for your customer. Sometimes you can love a design so much, but it might not be the perfect design for the girl who will be wearing it. Or you can design a fabulous beading and have to strip it down to
It can get confusing sometimes, but you do get accustomed to jumping back and forth between seasons. The hardest part is that at work we are always working one year ahead; I then come home and want to write 2014 on my rent checks or other things. I have to stop sometimes and remind myself what year we are currently living in.
“seeing someone else in the world enjoy my designs as much as i do thrills me”
be a more simplified version for costing reasons. I have to remind myself not to get too attached to my designs for that reason. What has been the big- While I may love all of gest challenge in your them, we have to only put job? the ones on the floor that That’s a hard one. There our customer will love. are always challenges, everyday. I love the chal- We know you love your lenges though. I feel like job, but it sounds very I really grow from all of intense as well—what them. I think the hardest do you do to relax on part about fashion design your down time? page 57
Just being at home is the best thing for me. I am a major homebody so being at home, watching a movie and hanging out with my boyfriend is what I usually do. When I can, I love to go home to visit my family and pugs in Richmond, VA. My parents also have an old tobacco farm that belonged to my late grandparents and we love going there. There is no Internet or cable and not great cell service which I love. Haha! How would you describe your personal style? My style is very girly. Obviously I wear a lot of Lilly, bright colors, and prints. I absolutely love dressing up even if I am not going anywhere in particular, but I think I am more often dressed with a “casual chic” attitude. It’s funny because I love summer weather but winter clothes. The idea of layering is a key point to my wardrobe. I am mostly a leather boots, skinny jeans, and fun top kind of Issue 4 / September, 2013
girl, and I love both gold Tell us about your goals and silver jewelry. for the future—where do you see yourself going, What advice would what’s your dream job? you give someone just I think that I definitely starting out in the fash- want to make sure I alion industry? ways stay in design. It is Be yourself. The industry my niche and I was lucky can be very intimidating to find that out so early. I and influential. It is im- have no idea where I will portant to know and un- be one day. I am really derstand your own style open to what the world before working in the in- will bring my way. I think dustry. Different brands it would be fun to be the have different styles and creative director of Lilly. you need to be able to I really love the company adapt to their style while and know I would be hapbringing your own into it. py there.
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We like to describe our readers as sweet or spicy—which are you? I would describe myself as sweet. I like to always do the right thing, and I think my heart can be very big, especially when it comes to animals. In my personal life I am not much of a rule-breaker, which is why I am in design. Design is my outlet because there are no rules so I can do what I want, when I want, and how I want.
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Sipping Dixie Text by Bevin Valentine Photography by Siobhan Egan page 59
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In
The process of wine-making is both a science and an art. Grady likens himself to a “mad scientist,” creating blends and experiment with flavor profiles. With only two vineyards currently producing fruit on the property, the winery brings in unfermented juice from other producers to supplement their grapes. In his initial research Grady learned that the Muscadine grape was one of the few considered suitable for the wet southeastern climate. The Muscadine, characterized by its heartiness and the sweet wine it produces, has become a popular It all began in the fall of 2008 when, grape for September Oaks, but it is the during a business trip to San Francisco, Lenoir grape in which Grady sees the fuGrady took time out to rent a car and ture of the winery. drive up the Pacific coast to wine country. He was enchanted by the beauty of the The Lenoir is a hybrid grape, the topography, the geometry of the vine- antecedent of which was originally yards, and the mystique of wine-making. brought to the low country by French th After that trip, Grady says, “I decided Huguenot settlers in the late 17 and th to bring Northern California to the low early 18 centuries. Though the ancient vines were unsuited to the area, country.” today’s Lenoir grape is a cross between It would take research, toil, and a driv- these European grapes and a native ing passion to bring Grady’s vision American variety. Largely unseen in to life, but he planted his first vine- South Carolina for the past two centuyard in March of the following year. ries, the Lenoir nevertheless flourished Wine-making is traditionally a family in Texas, and in 2011 Grady imported business, with European winemakers’ Texan Lenoir grapes to start his own ancestors having occupied the same Lenoir vineyard—he calls it “bringing plots of land for centuries. Grady was history home.” The Lenoir grape is determined to do everything himself distinguished by its spicy characterisand with his family, from planning the tics—similar to a Malbec—and in it vineyard, to digging posts, to planting Grady sees the potential to create an estate wine that is utterly unique to the the vines. the far southeastern corner of South Carolina, deep in the lowcountry, an acreage can be found off Highway 278 in Jasper County. It contains two vineyards, thirty-two live oaks, a couple of dogs, and one winery. This oasis—just minutes removed from the roar of Interstate 95—is September Oaks Vineyards, and it is the labor of love of architect-turned-winemaker and Ridgeland, South Carolina resident Grady Woods.
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Left, owner of September Oaks Grady Woods / Right & below, Muscadine grapes on the vine
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Carolina low country. Initially, the vineyard was an experiment, but the idea of opening a winery quickly took—if you will—root. Today September Oaks produces about 1,000 cases of wine a year, has a public (recently expanded) tasting room, and plays host to events ranging from weddings to book signings. In addition to the Lenoir grapes, which are expected to start producing wine in the next two years, September Oaks also plans to introduce a port next year. Beginning this month the winery will play host to a Thursday night live music series, and plans are in the works for hosted dinners where attendees will learn about food and wine Paprika Southern
pairings. This place is one that is truly of the local, and is a space that will become one of community gathering. Grady hopes not only to make September Oaks part of the community, but also to create a community around the winery, one that transcends the wine.
Visit September Oaks online www.septemberoaks.com
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Earnest Indulgences...and Shoes Text by Bess Bieluczyk Photography by Bess Bieluczyk & Jay Gould
Walking through the door
of Ma Petite Shoe is entering a glorious cocoon of everything wonderful. Even though it is a store that actually only deals in two things: shoes and chocolates, but truthfully, what else are we looking for? Located on “the Avenue” (really 36th Street), the main drag of the funky Baltimore neighborhood of Hampden, Ma Petite Shoe is an oasis of indulgences and “women’s favorite things,” saleswoman Mary Shock laughs, describing the store affectionately as “a sensory overload”, adding, “ When people come in, it’s a big reaction”. And it is, but in the best possible sense; you want to simultaneously examine and try on all the delightful shoes while tasting each of the tempting chocolates. The shop is decked out in quirky, old-French aesthetic, with shoes artfully arranged on small tables or twisty shelves and a mantle displaying yet more shoes on ornate jewelry boxes. There is an amazing array of footwear tucked into the front room of the store. Everything from boots to mary janes to flats, slippers and a small but carefully selected section of men’s shoes. It’s a wonderful blend of quirky, chic and timeless styles
cus is clearly on incoming seasonal trends, and they arrange the store to give their shoppers a surprise. I question Mary on fall trends, “We love an oxford- always”. She shares that menswear-inspired footwear for women will be big this season particularly with the oxford, loafer and the intriguingly-named smoking slipper. Metallics will be popular as well as 90’s-style The small shop might pack an amazing chunky heels which may seem a little preamount of footwear inside, but their fo- mature for comeback to someone who Paprika Southern
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amels are a total Baltimore favorite, everyone knows about them and everyone loves them” says Mary. Another favorite are the salted caramel brownies that baker Amy Langrehr, of the Charm City Cook Blog, created exclusively for the store. Amy lives nearby in Hampden and uses eggs from her own chickens in the brownies - that’s as local as it gets. Other favorites, such as Double Premium truffles made in Alexandria, VA and dropped off in small batches. They are candy for the eye as well as the mouth with delicately pretty chocolate screen print designs on each truffle and a “truly decadent” taste.
came of age in that decade (cough,me). Ma Petite is not only focused on fashion, they are also a store with a conscience, carrying brands from countries with ethical labor practices such as Pikolinos and Archipelago and environmentally friendly companies such as Groundhog Shoeseven an entire section of vegan footwear, which is challenging to find. Mary says, “With boots, it’s hard because you want something cute and classy but totally vegan”. This conscientiousness carries over to the sweets section. Ma Petite is a destination for those in search of delicious, locally-made treats, “Mouth Party carpage 71
Although many of these delicacies can only be found locally, the store is about to enter their chocolate season, the cooler months when they can actually ship all over the country. The newest addition to the shop is Choux, the name pronounced is like ‘shoe’, (thank you high school French!) the cafe next door “They’re a little more modern-Paris chic” says Mary. With a menu that offers a contemporary take on French cafe fare, the highlights are their housemade pastries and original coffee concoctions such as the Lavender Latte and fresh salads.
visit ma petite shoe & choux online www.mapetiteshoe.com Issue 4 / September, 2013
Game Day Nicki Medlen, married to Atlanta Braves pitcher Kris Medlen, is no stranger to the ballpark. Nicki, 27, along with her sister Bailey, 16, make it a point to attend as many Braves games as possible to see Kris pitch, and they do so in style. In addition to cheering on Kris, they soak up the ballpark atmosphere by treating themselves to favorite ballpark snacks (Dippin’ Dots for Bailey, and trying out the variety of fare available at Turner Field for Nicki) and spending time with their extended Braves “family.” When dressing for the ballpark, though both Nick and Bailey enjoy the occasional dressier look, they identify comfort as key. Nicki describes her style as bohemian, with flowy tops, leggings, and boots (weather allowing!) being staples. Bailey often likes to wear sportier attire (a Braves t-shirt and jeans), but when she dresses up she makes sure to maintain her Braves spirit by incorporating the team colors (red, white, and blue) into her outfit. Whether you’re planning to hit the ballpark next summer, or gearing up for football season, Nicki and Bailey’s picks are sure to keep you in comfort and style on game day!
Bailey and Nicki on game day Kris and Nicki
Kris and Nicki’s son shows off his team spirit
Photographs courtesy of Nicki Medlen Paprika Southern
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This is an exact outfit I have worn this year to the field. I like to buy inexpensive clothes, so I can wear “what’s in style, ” since trends change so often. I will “invest” in classic pieces, jewelry, and bags. Bags and coffee are my vices without a doubt. -Nicki Forever 21 Safari Maxi Dress Comfortable, while still looking girly. And nowadays, it’s more like forever 27 with a baby... But it’s a store I can take my younger sister to and still find things for me.
Louis Vuitton Artsy MM Bag It might be unreasonable to some, but I love a beautiful bag. Especially, one with quality leather that will hold up for years. I’ve convinced my husband I’ll pass these down to our granddaughters.
Stella & Dot Gold Bracelet I know several people that sell this fun, costume jewelry. I’ll buy jewelry anywhere. Target and H&M to David Yurman. But if it’s trendy and won’t hold up over time, I like to save some cash. Target Gold Sandals I destroy shoes, so I typically stock up on sandals from Target every summer. Plus, if I’m carrying around our 7 month old son heels can make it an extra workout! page 73
Michael Kors Watch I’m about 5’8”, so anything that helps me look smaller is a keeper. An oversized watch does just the trick. Issue 4 / September, 2013
The Gallery One of our favorite aspects of Paprika Southern is being able to offer artists from the South and beyond a space in which to share their work. This month’s gallery explores the idea of memory. From a hazy, half-remembered dream, to the nostalgia of childhood, to an unforgettable moment sharply etched into the psyche, each of these artists has taken on the universal theme of memory to create personal and thoughtfully rendered work.
Untitled 22 / Page Perrault / Silver gelatin print / Columbus, GA
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Blindness #3 / Niduan Zhou / Photography / China
Blindness #4 / Niduan Zhou / Photography / China page 75
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Sandfly / Randy Akers / Mixed media on panel / Savannah, GA
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Untitled, from the Inheritance series / Mary Ella Jourdak / Scans of cross-processed 4x5 color film / Kent Island, MD
Coda / Dominique Elliott / Photography / Savannah, GA
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Whaddaya Say Jim / Bridget Kirkland/ Digital photo/collage and video / Spartanburg, SC
The Faceless Friends Series / Finn Schult / Photography / Naples, FL Paprika Southern
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Peter / Robert A. Schaefer, Jr. / Cyanotype print / New York, NY page 79
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Passage / Jeremias Paul / Digital C-prints and archival pigment prints / Cedar City, UT
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6 Hours of Tossing and Turning / Corey Danieli / Digital C-print from 4.x 5 negative / Verona, NJ
Unknown / Pam Kennedy / Photography / Land O’ Lakes, FL Paprika Southern
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Nan and Billy / Megan Byrne / Inkjet print / Wellington, FL
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Restraint / Jeff Chadwick / Photography / Fairport, NY Issue 4 / September, 2013
La Bella (Series) / Ayden Gotzmer / Large format Polaroid / Accokeek, MD
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Riddle / Laurinda Stockwell/ Photograph on metal / Columbus, OH
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Lights On My Mind / Andrew Davidhazy / Photography / Honeoye Falls, NY
Nostalgia / Jesemy Wang / Photography / Hong Kong Paprika Southern
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Intersection of a Dream / Kristen Baird / Sterling silver, copper, white topaz / Savannah, GA
In celebration of the spookiest month of the year, the theme of next month’s gallery section will be “haunted.” We are looking for artwork that explorings psychological hauntings, spiritual hauntings, or any other way you might interpret that theme. Open to all mediums. Deadline October 26 page 87
To submit, email the following information to mail@paprikasouthern. com with subject line “Haunted Submission.” Please attach up to 3 jpegs to your email for consideration. -Artist name -Title of pieces(s); should match file name -Medium -Hometown -Website (if you would us to link to it) -A brief statement about the work (optional) Files should be jpegs sized 12 inches on the shorter side, and 150ppi. Issue 4 / September, 2013
P.S. Paprika Southern recommends texas Throughout the fall art venues in the state of Texas will participate in the fifth Texas Biennial. This independly-curated event seeks to highlight contemporary art being made in Texas. Both group and solo shows will take place in cities ranging from Austin, to Dallas, to Houston, and many more. September 5 - November 9
savannah SCAD Museum of Art will present Ice or Salt,an exhibition of recent work by Ellen Gallagher. Gallagher uses mixed media techniques to address issues of race, gender, and popular culture in her work. September 10 - January 19
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district of columbia Currently on view in the lobby of the Hirschhorn Museum is a public installation of Barbar Kruger’s work. Referencing the tropes of advertising, Kruger’s work takes a critical look at gender and society. On view through December 2014
raleigh CAM Raleigh presents Currents, an exhibition of contemporary photography from the collection of Allen Thomas, Jr. The show, which features emerging photographers whose work utilizes the strategies of contemporary art, includes Michele Abeles, Chris McCaw, and more. Show runs through October 7
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Follow along with Paprika Southern throughout the month: Facebook Twitter Pinterest Instagram See you in October!
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