THE DISCERNING DINER

Claudia Blake visits The Bridgewater Arms in Winston

utumn means the start of a new academic year. It’s the perfect time to pay a visit to The Bridgewater Arms, a fine dining restaurant in the unusual – and distinctly charming – setting of a former Victorian village school.

You’ll find it in Winston, a modest linear village sandwiched between the broad and rocky River Tees and the main road from Piercebridge to Barnard Castle. The Bridgewater Arms reopened under new management last autumn, and appointed a new Head Chef just a few short weeks ago. But has the new intake done their homework, and will they make the grade?

CRACKING CROQUETTES

The high ceilings and generous lattice windows so typical of mid-19th century school buildings make The Bridgewater Arms a light, bright and airy space to relax in. The green-and-cream bar area is carpeted, cosy and convivial. Beyond lies a surprisingly extensive labyrinth of small dining spaces.

Other than the enormous reproduction of the cast list for a 1957 production of Jack and the Beanstalk (daringly reflecting the times by featuring ‘Teddy Boy’ and ‘Teddy Girl’ alongside more traditional ‘Fairies and Pixies’), the décor is relatively understated. Only a scattering of photos, a shelf or two of miscellaneous books and a stray blackboard ruler underline the building’s former function.

Joint owner and mine host Tom Brown (and what better name for the proprietor of a former school?) proved to be a chatty and knowledgeable fellow, keen to share his enthusiasm for the fine detail of the food and drink on offer. It was definitely a promising start; this is someone who clearly cares deeply about what he’s doing, and wants to do it well.

The arrival of our starters, immaculately presented on stately white crockery, confirmed our initial inkling that we were in for a treat. There was a delicacy and finesse about them that suggested that Chef possesses a winning combination of culinary cleverness and unyielding perfectionism. The Cheddar cheese croquettes with red onion jam and a bacon crumb were richly savoury – melty-soft in the middle with a delicate crispy coating. The bacon crumb was a fine haze of infinitesimal salty fragments, and the sweet onion jam provided a delightful boost of colour, taste and texture.

Our other starter, the beetroot and goat’s cheese roulade, was equally subtle and delicate, the earthy beetroot sliced impressively thin and the not-too-sharp goat’s cheese providing a lusciously creamy contrast. Add to that an orange vinaigrette for pep and a scattering of candied walnuts for crunch and you’ve got a dish that’s as sophisticated as it is scrumptious.

DELIGHTFUL DUCK

Moving on to mains, the slow-cooked featherblade of beef had been shredded and consolidated into a neat roundel. Served with mashed potato, beautifully caramelised roasted carrot, judiciously cooked tender stem broccoli and a rich, thick red wine gravy, this was hearty comfort food of the highest order.

More delightful still was the pan-roasted duck breast. The meat was cooked to perfection and bursting with gamey flavour. Swaggeringly maroon roasted plums added a big, bold dose of the penetrating sharpness that complements duck so well. A gorgeously melting slab of celeriac fondant, a foamy celeriac purée, buttered spinach and a dab or two of red wine sauce contributed yet more merriment to the ensemble. Definitely the dish of the evening.

Desserts, like starters and mains, were presented with style and panache. A fetchingly pink summer berry panna cotta came with a jug of dreamily indulgent white chocolate sauce and a neat frieze of strawberries and blueberries. It slipped down nicely, but might perhaps have benefitted from turning up the dial on the summer-berry sharpness.

There was no arguing about the muscularity of the banana flavour in the banana parfait, which came with deafeningly crunchy homemade honeycomb. Oddly enough we couldn’t trace the advertised accompanying candied lime, which would undoubtedly have boosted the experience up a notch had it been in evidence.

This was a minor issue, though, and certainly not a deal-breaker. Overall our trip to The Bridgewater Arms turned out to be a thoroughly enjoyable evening in relaxed and comfortable surroundings. Not the cheapest eatery in Teesdale, but in our opinion very much up there at the top of the class when it comes to quality and value for money. The happy buzz of regular customers suggested that local diners agree. More school dinners in future? Count me in! For more information about The Bridgewater Arms visit thebridgewaterwinston.co.uk or call 01325 730302. WHAT TO EXPECT

Super-detailed, conscientious and delicious cookery, stylishly presented in quaint surroundings.

ATMOSPHERE

Cosier and more comfortable than a Victorian schoolroom has any right to be.

SERVICE

The knowledgeable and friendly owners make dining here a pleasure.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Three courses, excluding drinks, cost us an average of £37.50 per head.

DOWN THE HATCH

There’s a wide-ranging, carefully curated and sensibly priced wine list, with prices per glass starting at £4 (125ml).

BREAK TIMES

The Bridgewater Arms is open for lunches and dinners from Wednesday to Saturday, and for Sunday lunches.

LOCAL LANDMARK

When it was built in the 1760s, nearby Winston Bridge boasted the longest singlespan arch of any bridge in Europe: 111 feet (34 metres). It’s still an impressive sight.

SIMONSTONE HALL

THE COUNTRY HOUSE A umn/Winter Offer

ON ARRIVAL

ENJOY OUR AWARD-WINNING ‘SIMONSTONE AFTERNOON TEA’ & A BOTTLE OF CHAMPAGNE

DAY TWO

AWAKE TO OUR WONDERFUL SIMONSTONE BREAKFAST TO SET YOU UP FOR THE DAY

IN THE EVENING

CHEESEBOARD & PORT GET COSY AND ENJOY A SELECTION OF GREAT CHEESES A THREE-COURSE EVENING MEAL IS INCLUDED IN OUR YORKSHIRE ‘RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR 2022’

DAY THREE A HEARTY BREAKFAST BEFORE YOUR LEISURELY CHECK-OUT OR EXTEND YOUR STAY FROM ONLY £129 B&B ROOM RATES AVAILABLE FOR LIMITED TIME ONLY!

PRINCIPAL ROOM PACKAGE

CURRENTLY AVAILABLE FOR ONLY £499

ESTATE ROOM PACKAGE

CURRENTLY AVAILABLE FOR ONLY £449

Fe ive Fun!

PLANNING YOUR ANNUAL CHRISTMAS PARTY?

This year, we are hosting a number of ‘Christmas Party’ nights! If you are looking for a group table at one of our ‘Open House’ parties, or an exclusive ‘House Party’ with the Hall, all for you and your colleagues; get in touch!

Christmas is a beautifully festive time at Simonstone Hall, with the most festive interiors and atmosphere. Enjoy deliciously seasonal dining, Champagne and wines, wintry landscapes and roaring open fires.

OUR SPECIAL CHRISTMAS 2022 PACKAGE

CHRISTMAS EVE

In-room arrival treats, mulled wine and three-course Christmas Eve meal, with a bottle of premium house wine and a complimentary nightcap.

CHRISTMAS DAY

A special Christmas gift before Buck’s Fizz with breakfast. A four-course lunch and bottle of Champagne between two. An evening platter or in-room hamper.

BOXING DAY

Late breakfast/brunch served before a guided group walk. Champagne reception & canapés before our annual four-course gala supper, with wine.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

This year, we’re hosting another superb New Year’s Eve party at Simonstone Hall, with tickets available for our party night and for our New Year’s Day stay too. Book in for a one or two night stay and welcome the bells with us.

01969 667255 | reception@simonstonehall.com | www.simonstonehall.com