THE DISCERNING DINER

Claudia Blake visits Simonstone Hall near Hawes

Some of the most attractively presented food I’ve seen in a long while.

ales Life has been reporting on fine dining in North Yorkshire for three decades now, and this was my third review trip to Simonstone Hall. I was impressed the first time round and – spoiler alert – I’m pleased to report that each time I’ve visited since then the food has reached new heights of style and sophistication.

Simonstone Hall dates back to the 15th century and is one of Upper Wensleydale’s most attractive buildings. Its mullioned windows, steep gables, tall chimneys and quirky clocktower immediately conjure up past splendours and present-day Instagram potential.

Whoever built Simonstone certainly chose a bonny spot. Perched on the lower slopes of Great Shunner Fell, the hall enjoys panoramic views across the patchwork fields towards Hawes and the brooding moors beyond. Hardraw Force, England’s highest single-drop waterfall, is a short, steep saunter away.

Originally a private residence, then a shooting lodge, Simonstone became a country house hotel in the 1980s. Since 2016 enterprising local architect Jake Dinsdale has been at the helm, enthusiastically transforming it into one of Wensleydale’s prime luxury destinations.

Since my previous visit it has clearly been ‘all change’ as regards Simonstone’s restaurant, now christened The Black Stag. Its smart, unfussy décor majors on clean lines and dark green walls, putting a contemporary spin on a fine period room. Elegant floral arrangements on every table, stylish glassware, proper linen napkins… all signs of an operation determined to impress.

STUNNING STARTERS

The first edible to arrive was what the menu hails as the Bread Course, which consisted of… well… a modest wedge of bread each. Very splendid bread, to be sure, and accompanied by a flawless quenelle of ‘artisan butter’, but hardly what most diners would classify as a ‘course’.

Fortunately it wasn’t long before a brace of thoroughly gorgeous-looking starters hove into view. Some of the most attractively presented food I’ve seen in a long while, in fact. One was a perfect slow-cooked hen’s egg in a remarkably delicate crispy coating, nestled in a mottled grey bowl atop a delicious mélange of salsify – some pickled, some poached – and a hazelnut and duck-skin crumb. Salsify, by the way, is one of my favourite vegetables, and sadly underused. Chefs wanting a thumbs-up from me should consider planting some in their kitchen gardens forthwith.

Moving on, this is the point at which I start casting around for superlatives, because our second starter was simply stellar. A wildly quirky combo of ingredients that I would never have imagined putting together but which nonetheless knocked our socks off: moist, flaky, char-grilled mackerel; sharp, cool pickled watermelon; spicy satay sauce; toasty puffed rice… Hard to imagine isn’t it? And yet this off-the-wall assortment really worked; textures and tastes in perfect harmony. A truly visionary bit of cheffing, worth a five-star review all on its own.

The same awesome culinary intelligence was evident in the mains. Our loin of Yorkshire venison was judiciously cooked and served on bulgur wheat – an interesting and successful choice – along with a rich casserole of venison and pearly little onions. Pickled red cabbage, punchily aromatic in a fennel-dill-caraway kind of way, provided a perfect foil to the meaty richness; I could have eaten a whole plateful of it.

BLISSFUL BURGER

If a high-aiming eatery offers a burger on the menu I usually make a point of ordering it. Let’s face it, if you can elevate a burger you can elevate anything. And the Black Stag ‘signature’ burger had indeed been cranked up to vertigoinducing heights. A flavoursome, well-textured, nicely charred patty on a crisp brioche with a generous slather of melted Gruyère, accompanied by a pert tomato relish and crisp fries. What’s not to like?

Things had gone so swimmingly thus far that we were fairly certain desserts would be a knockout too, and our confidence proved entirely justified.

The white chocolate cheesecake – served in half a coconut shell alongside a sweet and beguiling coconut sorbet – consisted of a rich custard-textured base topped with an ethereal foam. Rum-drenched pineapple added an extra whack of flavour and texture.

Our other pud celebrated Yorkshire forced rhubarb in the forms of a melt-in-themouth, creamy-cum-tangy parfait and a set of tiny super-sharp batons whose sourness was counterbalanced by neat mounds of an orangey mousse. According to the menu eucalyptus was also involved somewhere along the line, although not to the extent that we could distinguish it. Magical nonetheless.

To sum up, then: six courses of very clever and genuinely memorable cooking. Not the cheapest dining option in the Dales, but then you would hardly expect this kind of quality to come cheap. Will Simonstone Hall have upped its game yet further by the next time we visit? Hard to imagine it could get much better than it already is, but fingers crossed! For more information about Simonstone Hall visit simonstonehall.com or call 01969 667255

WHAT TO EXPECT

Picture-perfect plates cooked with precision and genuine flair by a team clearly determined to set the highest standards.

ATMOSPHERE

Luxurious but easygoing country house hotel.

SERVICE

Well-paced delivery – none of those irritating longueurs between courses – from efficient and unobtrusive staff.

THE BOTTOM LINE

The Black Stag menu offers two courses for £49 per person or three courses for £55.

DOWN THE HATCH

Comprehensive drinks list covering pretty much any tipple you’re likely to yearn for. A large glass of Sauvignon Blanc cost us £8.20.

ALSO STARRING…

Simonstone Hall also serves breakfasts and brunches, snacks, Sunday roasts and afternoon teas, along with bespoke menus for special events.

Catering

Professional and experienced outside catering company based in North Yorkshire. Weddings, funerals, private parties and corporate events. Bar hire, hog roasts and much more.

e: hello@fairhursts.co.uk w: www.fairhursts.co.uk t: 01969 624 668

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