THE DISCERNING Diner

hen an eatery is called ‘The Saddle Room’ and can be found just a few minutes’ drive from the racehorse training town of Middleham it’s a safe bet the décor has an equine theme. Such indeed is the case.

Situated in the grounds of Tupgill Park – next door to North Yorkshire’s most eccentric tourist attraction, The Forbidden Corner – The Saddle Room is housed in a former stable. And if you’re looking for further references to the sport of kings, you won’t be disappointed. From the weighing scales at the reception desk to the cast iron hay racks on the walls of the dining ‘stalls’ there are plenty of horsey bits and bobs to admire.

Thankfully, though, it’s not overwhelmingly nostalgic or country-cute. The overall impression when you walk in on a Sunday lunchtime is of a spacious wood-and-stone environment with a cheery contemporary vibe, peopled by a correspondingly cheery, relaxed clientele and efficiently overseen by a legion of polite, neatly dressed staff.

Starters Orders

It’s obvious from the menu that roast meat carved at the dining table is the jewel in the crown of The Saddle Room’s Sunday lunchtime offering, so we decided it would be churlish not to partake. That said, other options are available, and pescatarians and vegetarians needn’t go hungry. I flirted briefly with the notion of ordering the nut roast, but my carnivorous instincts got the better of me.

Before the main event, however, came the starters. And as soon as they arrived at the table – which was commendably promptly – we felt confident we would be getting some top-notch nosh. When food is presented as boldly and precisely as this was, you know that the folk in the kitchen have got their heads screwed on.

It’s hard to give a soup eye-appeal, but The Saddle Room’s cream of celeriac soup, topped with a tangle of sautéed wild mushrooms and swirls of vibrant green chive oil, looked both classy and compelling. Celeriac soup tends to be on the sweet side, but the mushrooms had been seasoned with a decent whack of salt, providing an ideal counterbalance. Accompanied by a hunk of excellent crusty bread, this was a splendid opening gambit.

Our other starter, whipped goat’s cheese with pickled and roast beetroot plus a dusting of lavender almonds, was equally well judged. The goat’s cheese, with its sharp, salty tang, was set off nicely by the sharpness of the crispy pickled beetroot and the round, earthy tones of the roast, with the toasted almonds adding a satisfying crunch. I couldn’t detect the lavender mentioned on the menu, but then nor did I bemoan its absence; the plateful was fine just as it stood.

Soon after we had downed our starters, a twoperson team turned up with a domed trolley and carved our mains: sirloin of beef and leg of lamb. An enjoyable piece of culinary theatre that resulted in two platefuls of remarkably generous slices of meat. Clearly we weren’t in danger of going home hungry.

Ruling The Roast

In the case of both the beef and the lamb we were given top-quality meat cooked à point – and, in the case of the beef, pleasantly charred on the outside. The menu had promised “all the traditional trimmings”, a promise abundantly fulfilled by enormous Yorkshire puds, crisp and ethereally light, and a compendious selection of vegetables.

Prominent amongst these were herb-andsalt-crusted roast potatoes and a nicely browned cauliflower cheese made with lashings of tasty cheese. There was a cornucopia of extras, including charred onions, peas, green beans, kale, broccoli, carrots, roast parsnips and swede. None of them were overcooked, none were under. In short, a glorious veg-fest that put less conscientious establishments to shame.

After this meat-and-multiple-veg jamboree it was touch-and-go whether we could manage desserts. In the interests of research, though, we forced ourselves.

The treacle tart with salted caramel and beurre noisette ice cream was pleasant enough, but possibly aimed at guests with a sweeter tooth than mine; personally I would have liked something sharp on the plate to pep it up. However the Yorkshire forced rhubarb meringue roulade with Chantilly cream and rhubarb and anise sorbet was bang on the money. Super-sharp, pippingly pink rhubarb stems and a sumptuous sorbet perfectly complemented the crisp, cream-stuffed meringue. Refreshing, easy-to-eat and indulgent… just writing about it makes my mouth water!

So, as you’ll probably have gathered, we had a thoroughly enjoyable time. The pricing – £32 per head for the food in our case – seemed very reasonable for such a pleasant experience, and we would have no hesitation in declaring The Saddle Room a sure-fire winner.

For more information about The Saddle Room visit thesaddleroom.co.uk or call 01969 640596.

What To Expect

Detailed, conscientious cooking from a kitchen team who clearly know their onions.

Atmosphere

Bright and buzzy atmosphere in a repurposed building with a race-horsing theme.

Service

Prompt and personable; nothing is too much trouble.

The Bottom Line

The Sunday lunch menu is priced at £28 for two courses or £32 for three courses, drinks not included.

Down The Hatch

Wines by the glass start at £4.55 for 125ml or £6.50 for 250ml.

Also Running

If Sunday lunch isn’t your thing, The Saddle Room also serves a wide range of light bites, lunches, evening meals and even breakfasts (the latter pre-booked only).