5 minute read
THE DISCERNING DINER
by Dales Life
Claudia Blake visits The Sandpiper Inn, Leyburn
t’s reassuring to see the Dales bustling again. On the midweek night that we visited
The Sandpiper Inn, Leyburn was surprisingly busy, with parking spaces almost as scarce as during daylight hours. The town’s many eateries all seemed to be doing a brisk trade – and none more so than The Sandpiper, where a convivial buzz greeted us as we stepped into the cosy bar.
The Sandpiper Inn, at the lower end of Market Place, is a modest stone-built property dating back to the late 17th century. Inside are several darkly massive oak beams that attest to its antiquity.
The restaurant area, with its wooden floor and hefty stone fireplace, is surprisingly spacious. Diners with dogs – or those who favour a slightly more informal atmosphere – can eat in the compact bar or snug. The décor throughout is smart and unfussy. No garish artworks or faux horse brasses here, thank heavens.
The Sandpiper has been a fixture on the Leyburn dining scene for a good two decades now, and chef-patron Jonathan Harrison is something of a local celebrity. He and his wife Janine have assembled an amiable and highly efficient team who go the extra mile to make guests feel at home. Plenty of restaurants pay lip-service to the notion of a warm welcome, but this is a place where everyone seems genuinely relaxed and friendly.
The menu, which could loosely be described as ‘Modern British’, is equally inclusive. Whether you’re vegan, vegetarian, pescatarian or, like me, unashamedly omnivorous there are tempting options on offer. TIP-TOP TERRINE As well as writing appealing menus, Chef Harrison has a talent for confident, stylish presentation. The slab of country terrine that we ordered as a starter was accompanied by an immaculately engineered sphere of fried, panko-coated black pudding. Carefully posed on and around these key players were a vibrant nasturtium flower, several neat blobs of apple chutney purée, a gaggle of swaggering salad leaves and a precisely griddled slice of potato bread. The terrine was lusciously moist, and the black pudding was light and melting, with a minutely thin but satisfyingly crisp coating. Taken together with the intensely fruity purée, the overall effect was enchanting.
Our other starter was a Cheddar cheese soufflé. By its nature a soufflé is harder than most dishes to present with panache, but Chef had certainly upped the textural interest by sitting it on a bed of courgette ribbons and spinach, and by dusting the top with a Yorkshire Fettle crumb. I’ve eaten several cheese soufflés at the Sandpiper over the years, and whilst this particular incarnation didn’t strike me as the most cheese-tastic of them – possibly the courgette was confusing the issue – it was nonetheless a worthy and enjoyable starter.
Next up for our consideration was roasted chump of local lamb with a blackberry and mint jus. I set high standards when it comes to lamb cookery and this ticked all the boxes. A quality piece of meat, intelligently cooked – pleasantly caramelised outside and pink, but not overly so, inside – it was a tender, flavoursome delight.
Rocking a distinctly Mediterranean vibe, our other main – lemon-scented Nidderdale chicken breast – was served on a chorizo, sweetcorn, pepper and marjoram risotto, and garnished with a generous handful of Parmesan shavings.
RAVISHING RISOTTO Chicken is a comparatively unassertive meat, but the risotto, with its riot of colours, tastes and textures, blasted it high into the culinary stratosphere. By turns creamy, salty and spicy, the risotto made a surprisingly rich and hearty complement to the gently lemon-infused fowl. Utterly delicious and highly memorable.
After the knockout intensity of the mains it was a relief to find that the desserts, albeit indulgent, were light enough to slip down in a trice.
The sticky toffee pudding – which in less judicious establishments generally takes the form of a giant brick doused in enough sugary sauce to induce palpitations – was a neat, light roundel, and not overly sweet. It was served with Scottish tablet ice cream. And no, Scottish tablet isn’t a posthangover paracetamol, it’s a slightly grainier-thannormal fudge.
Lighter still was the raspberry croustillant with Chantilly cream – basically raspberries and cream stacked between crisp, sweet discs. Served with a zingy scarlet raspberry coulis, it was the epitome of a smart-looking, good-tasting pud.
At around £37 per head for the food The Sandpiper Inn isn’t the cheapest place to eat in Leyburn, but in terms of value for money it knocks the spots off most other eateries in the county. There’s proper, honest-to-goodness cheffing on display here – you don’t put out stellar dishes like these without a deep understanding of food. So three cheers for Chef Harrison and his team for their services to Yorkshire culinary excellence. Long may they continue! For more information about The Sandpiper Inn in Leyburn visit sandpiperinn.co.uk or call 01969 622206. WHAT TO EXPECT
Detailed, conscientious, highly accomplished cookery, flawlessly presented in a mellow, comfy, fine-dining pub.
SERVICE
You’re unlikely to find a friendlier, more efficient team.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Three courses each for two people cost us a total of £74, drinks not included.
DOWN THE HATCH
Two large (250ml) glasses of a zesty New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from the extensive wine list cost us £17. Real ales are also available, along with a compendious selection of malt whiskies.
DON’T MISS…
The Sandpiper has two boutique-style en-suite double bedrooms for diners who fancy staying over. During the daytime Leyburn has a wealth of independent shops to explore, and there are panoramic views across Wensleydale just a short stroll from Market Place.
Welcome to The White Bear
A LUXURY INN, RESTAURANT AND PUB IN THE HEART OF MASHAM
There’s always a warm welcome awaiting you at The White Bear
High quality food, cooked to perfection using fresh local, free range produce. New winter menus • Excellent selection of wines, craft beer and ales. Lovely beer garden • 14 beautiful bedrooms.
The White Bear Country Inn Wellgarth, Masham,North Yorkshire HG4 4EN • 01765 689319 • sue@whitebearmasham.co.uk
Overlooking the brewery town of Masham, e Black Swan provides the perfect setting for that special occasion.
• Food prepared from the fi nest local produce • Far-reaching views from the beer garden • Private dining room • 14 en-suite rooms • Log fi res • eakston’s and Black Sheep Ales
The Black Swan Inn, Fearby, Near Masham HG4 4NF
