National geographic traveller india june 2016 by Passion International Travel & Tours

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DUBAI

CITY OF SUPERLATIVES

YOGA

A RETREAT IN SOUTH INDIA

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JUNE 2016

CONTENTS Vol 4 Issue 12

JOURNEYS FOR A LIFETIME

SEE THE WORLD IN A LIFETIME

AROUND THE WORLD

Seven trips, seven continents, and seven decades. We’ll take you from age zero to seventy and beyond, from a road trip with a kindergartener through the American Southwest, a European city crawl perfect for twenty-somethings or an epic Antarctic adventure for folks who think they’ve seen it all

A husband-and-wife team takes us around the globe in their own unique way. A chance photograph they took in Barcelona propelled this intrepid couple on journeys across the world and set in motion a series of images taken over several years

100

110

PULSE OF A RAINFOREST

A MATTER OF OBSESSION

Tuning into the wilds of Malaysian Borneo with gummy orangutans, lush jungles, and bubbling mud volcanoes Text By Neha Sumitran Photographs by Karen Dias

The lore surrounding Switzerland’s most famous Alpine peak, the Matterhorn, makes it larger than life Text By Neha Dara Photographs by Sanjay Austa

56 Devil’s Pool at Victoria Falls, Zambia

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

MICHAEL BAYNES/CONTRIBUTOR/MOMENT MOBILE/GETTY IMAGES

JOURNEYS

JUNE 2016 • `150 • VOL. 4

I S S U E 1 2 • N AT G E O T R AV E L L E R . I N

VOICES

S M A R T T R AV E L L E R

22 Inside Out 24 Crew Cut Unbidden images in faraway lands tell many powerful stories

N AV I G AT E

26 Geotourism The Pacific Ocean anchors the world’s largest continuous marine reserve

28 Experience Bhopal’s 300-year-old hammam harks back to the city’s nawabi culture

48 Money Manager A guide to Dubai’s glossy locales and cultural heart

DUBAI

CITY OF SUPERLATIVES

YOGA

A RETREAT IN SOUTH INDIA

HOW TO SEE THE WORLD IN A LIFETIME 7 TRIPS • 7 CONTINENTS • 7 DECADES

ON THE COVER Russian photographer Murad Osmann chronicles his travels across the world with his wife Nataly in an unusual photo project which started in 2012. In this picture the couple visit the Kremlin in Moscow.

Cities revealed through group runs, sketching sessions, and from a local’s point of view

36 Bookshelf Titles that travel from the rice fields of Cambodia to the Amazonian rainforest

Music, history, and culinary treats in the heart of Kolkata

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

From Bengaluru

118 Turning the focus inward during a weekend at the Isha Yoga Center

Stay

122 Birds, books, and brisk mountain air at a homestay in Uttarakhand

118

32 Urban Explorer

42 The Weekender

SHORT BREAKS

From bloody battles to Bloody Marys at Goa’s Fort Tiracol

Apps to make journeys stress-free. And a window into the world of travel Periscopers

The city of Kingston presents a slice of 19th-century Canadian history

Go small at three hotspots known for big resorts

123

30 Tech Travel

38 Detour

54 Checking In

REGULARS 16 Editor’s Note 18 Notebook 124 Inspire 128 Travel Quiz

HANY MAHMOUD/ARABIANEYE/GETTY IMAGES (CITY), GANZALO AZUMENDI/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA (WOMAN), PHOTO COURTESY: ISHA YOGA CENTER (STATUE), MURAD OSMANN (COVER)

Finding bliss in both man-made wonders and raw nature

Editor-in-Chief NILOUFER VENKATRAMAN Deputy Editor NEHA DARA Senior Associate Editor DIYA KOHLI Associate Editor KAREENA GIANANI Features Writer RUMELA BASU Art Director DIVIYA MEHRA Photo Editor CHIRODEEP CHAUDHURI Associate Art Director DEVANG H. MAKWANA Senior Graphic Designer CHITTARANJAN MODHAVE Editor, Web NEHA SUMITRAN Assistant Editor, Web SAUMYA ANCHERI Features Writer FABIOLA MONTEIRO Features Writer KAMAKSHI AYYAR

NATIONAL GEO GRA PHI C TRAV ELER U.S. Editor In Chief, Travel Media GEORGE W. STONE Design Director MARIANNE SEREGI Director of Photography ANNE FARRAR Senior Editor JAYNE WISE Features Editor AMY ALIPIO Associate Editor HANNAH SHEINBERG Copy Editor JUDY BURKE Deputy Art Director LEIGH V. BORGHESANI Associate Photo Editor LAURA EMMONS Chief Researcher MARILYN TERRELL Production Director KATHIE GARTRELL Digital Director ANDREA LEITCH Producers MEGAN HELTZEL WEILER; LINDSAY SMITH Associate Producers REBECCA DAVIS; CHRISTINE BLAU Senior Photo Producer SARAH POLGER Associate Photo Producers TYLER METCALFE; JESS MANDIA Editors at Large and Travel Advisory Board COSTAS CHRIST, ANNIE FITZSIMMONS, DON GEORGE, ANDREW MCCARTHY, ANDREW NELSON, NORIE QUINTOS, ROBERT REID Contributing Editors KATIE KNOROVSKY, MARGARET LOFTUS, HEATHER GREENWOOD DAVIS, MARYELLEN KENNEDY DUCKETT Contributing Photographers AARON HUEY, CATHERINE KARNOW, JIM RICHARDSON, SUSAN SEUBERT I N T ERN AT I O N AL M AGA Z I N E PU B LI SH I N G Senior Vice President, International Media YULIA P. BOYLE Director, International Magazine Publishing ARIEL DEIACO-LOHR

NATIONAL GEO GRA PHI C SOCI ETY President & CEO GARY E. KNELL

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AD SALES NATIONAL HEAD AD SALES Senior Vice President ERIC D’SOUZA (+91 98200 56421) Mum ba i Assistant Account Director (Print & Online) RAHUL SINGHANIA (rahul.singhania@ack-media.com) Key Account Manager PRANUTHI KURMA (pranuthi. kurma@ack-media.com) De lhi Deputy General Manager (Print & Online) RAJ MANI PATEL (rajmani.patel@ack-media.com) Key Account Manager AAKANSHA DEOPA (aakansha. deopa@ack-media.com) Consultant JASWINDER GILL (jaswinder.gill@ackmedia.com) Be nga luru Account Director (South) S.M. MEENAKSHI (sm. meenakshi@ack-media.com) Che nna i Consultant SHANKAR JAYARAMAN (shankar.j@ackmedia.com) Ea ste rn Re g io n Authorized Representative JAIN ENTERPRISES (033 22488257; bcjain@vsnl.com) Sche d uling Assistant Manager SANDEEP PALANDE (sandeep. palande@ack-media.com)

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES TEL: +91 22 49188811, advertise@ natgeotraveller.in SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES TEL: +91 22 40497435/37, subscribe@natgeotraveller.in EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA Unit No. 201 & 202, Sumer Plaza, 2nd Floor, Marol Maroshi Road, Andheri (East), Mumbai – 400 059, India. letters@natgeotraveller.in RNI NO. MAHENG/2012/51060 Printed and published by Mr. Anuraag Agarwal on behalf of Amar Chitra Katha Pvt. Ltd. Printed at Manipal Technologies Ltd., Plot no 2/a, Shivalli Village, Industrial Area, Manipal-576104 and Published at Amar Chitra Katha Private Ltd., Unit No. 201 & 202, Sumer Plaza, 2nd Floor, Marol Maroshi Road, Andheri (East), Mumbai – 400 059. Published under license from National Geographic Partners, LLC. Editor: Ms. Niloufer Venkatraman. Processed at Commercial Art Engravers Pvt. Ltd., 386, Vir Savarkar Marg, Prabhadevi, Mumbai-400 025.

ACK MEDIA Chief Executive Officer ANURAAG AGARWAL CEO - Publishing MANAS MOHAN Chief Financial Officer DEEPAK RATHI Senior Vice President (Operations) M. KRISHNA KIRAN Business Head RITIKA BASU Senior Executive Subscriptions KASHISH KOCHHAR Dy. General Manager (Legal & Licensing) LALIT SHARMA Production Head SAGAR SAWANT Assistant Manager Production PRASAD JADE

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Disclaimer All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is strictly prohibited. We do our best to research and fact-check all articles but errors may creep in inadvertently. All prices, phone numbers, and addresses are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. All opinions expressed by columnists and freelance writers are their ownand not necessarily those of National Geographic Traveller India. We do not allow advertising to influence our editorial choices. All maps used in the magazine, including those of India, are for illustrative purposes only. About us National Geographic Traveller India is about immersive travel and authentic storytelling that inspires travel. It is about family travel, about travel experiences, about discoveries, and insights. Our tagline is “Nobody Knows This World Better” and every story attempts to capture the essence of a place in a way that will urge readers to create their own memorable trips, and come back with their own amazing stories. COPYRIGHT © 2016 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC PARTNERS, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER: REGISTERED TRADEMARK ® MARCA REGISTRADA.

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Editor’s Note |

N I LOU F E R V EN KATRA M A N

A It’s quite amazing to see how the Hindi ﬁlm industry has carved out so much goodwill for Indian travellers

few years ago, I was walking down a street in Jakarta when a street vendor said “Kuch kuch hota hai” as I passed by. I thought he was being cheesy and ignored him. Minutes later, I stepped into a store to buy a bottle of water when the young woman behind the cash register smiled and said in one breath “Kuch kuch hota hai I love Kajol.” I lingered to chat and learned that she was a keen Bollywood fan. She had watched only about a dozen Bollywood films, but had seen each one many times over. Through the rest of my trip in Indonesia I found that there was a lot of affection for Indians—most of it thanks to Karan Johar’s Kuch Kuch Hota Hai. Since then I’ve realized that even though I don’t know as much about Bollywood as my 10-year-old daughter, I am welcomed, even loved, in numerous countries around the world. This affection for India isn’t something that’s new, though I have to admit I’ve begun to recognize the extent of it only in the last five years. In Azerbaijan, people idolize Raj Kapoor and have been watching his films since the 1960s. In a market in Baku, the capital city, an old man sang “Awara Hoon” and “Mera Joota Hai Japani” while I browsed the wares in his shop. Further probing revealed that everyone in the country over age 35 has seen numerous Hindi films and even younger people in their 20s know of stars from Raj Kapoor to Shah Rukh Khan. It’s quite amazing to see how the Hindi film industry has carved out so much goodwill for Indian travellers. I’ve met so many people around the world who hold Hindi movie stars and music

OUR MISSION

A ﬂash mob goes Bollywood in Madrid, Spain.

in high esteem. Many who know me will be surprised I’m saying this since I’ve never followed Bollywood’s celebrities or its songs, but I’m quick to acknowledge that by some strange (and happy) transference I get the benefit. Earlier this year, while admiring the mind-boggling artefacts in The Museum of Egyptian Antiquities in Cairo, I heard a voice behind me ask. “Madam, can I take a photo with you?” I was a bit stunned and looked quizzically at the smiling teenaged girl who’d asked the question. “I love India. I love your movies and songs,” she explained, beckoning her brother to take a photograph of us together. He did, and then thanked me, because my “country makes so many great movies.” We ended up chatting and though I felt a bit weird that I was being thanked for something I had absolutely nothing to do with, I also felt happy to be talking to ordinary Egyptians. This goodwill is interesting considering the number of times I’ve heard people say we are hated around the globe because the average Indian doesn’t behave or make a good tourist. To me, it seems that the joy that Hindi cinema has spread in so many countries far outweighs the misbehaviour and transgressions of some Indian travellers. For this we should all be grateful. But interest in Bolllywood is not limited to Asia and Africa. Increasingly even the West is opening up to its entertainment value (and capacity to bring tourism to a country). During a wait at Munich airport two years ago, the ice breaker between my German co-passenger and me turned out to be Bollywood. I was surprised to hear that her young daughter goes for Bollywood dance classes and delights in it. She talked of how she herself adores the rhythm, the gorgeous costumes, the beautiful bindis, and the jewellery. She even sang part of a Hindi song to me. The words sounded like “Dilliwali Girlfriend,” a song I didn’t know at the time, but have since familiarised myself with. It was a good way to spend an hour at an airport, so much better than mindlessly walking around duty-free stores that sell the same goods from Vancouver to Cape Town. On several occasions Bollywood has helped me as a traveller: a store discount in Egypt, a table in a jam-packed restaurant in Malaysia, even airline seats when our flight from Jakarta to Lombok was cancelled and we were told none were available. I find it prudent to take good advantage of the Bollywood connection when I travel. I just need to ensure I brush up on the latest songs and hit films, and carry a few DVDs as gifts when I’m heading abroad.

National Geographic Traveller India is about immersive travel and authentic storytelling, inspiring readers to create their own journeys and return with amazing stories. Our distinctive yellow rectangle is a window into a world of unparalleled discovery.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

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Mountain Highs When I trekked to the Kedrakantha peak in Uttarakhand, I made the final walk to the summit alone. It was a little risky, the snow made it very slippery, but I used two wooden sticks to somehow get to the top. From the top I got a 360˚ panaromic view of the Himalayas. It made me feel so alive. The focal point of this photograph is the Shiva temple, made of stones with a trishul on top, situated on the summit of Kedarkantha peak at a height of about 12,850 feet. —Shubham Rawat

Shrine atop the Kedarkantha peak, Uttarakhand

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Sports Travel At the latest Meetup in Mumbai, our experts were sports fanatic Shubhankar Gokhale, marathon runner Neha Grover, and Navin Sharma, who organizes trips for global sports events. They chatted with NGT India’s Deputy Editor Neha Dara about their favourite sportsinspired trips and offered many tips. Q Spectators at events are bound by a shared love for the sport creating a sense of camaraderie. The experience can be electric. Q Look up the ticketing process in advance. Some sports events give tickets through lotteries. Official secondary ticket networks are great for those making last minute plans. Q Look up what’s allowed inside a stadium. You can, for instance, be turned away if your DSLR’s lens is too large. Q Many cities have thriving running communities and they can be a great way to meet the locals and discover hidden spots. NEXT MEETUP: Mumbai 10 June 2016, 7.30-9 p.m. Venue: Title Waves bookstore, Bandra (West), Mumbai.

NEHA DARA (CAFÉ), SHUBHAM RAWAT (SHRINE)

On a cool, windy spring evening in Vienna, walking into Café Sacher was like entering a warm cocoon. The walls were a rich, lavish red, as were the thick carpeting and upholstery. At the end of a hectic day of sightseeing in Vienna, the café’s old-world opulence seemed like a wellearned reward. This is where the famous Sachertorte was invented, so of course we ordered a slice. It’s one of those things every visitor to Vienna must try—dense chocolate cake with tart bits of apricot hidden inside. A generous helping of unsweetened cream adds moisture and richness to the dryness of the cake. Accompanying it were cups of steaming café melange, the traditional favourite of the city’s coffeehouses—half a cup of coffee, half creamy milk. —Deputy Editor, Neha Dara

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CONNECT

THE FIND

Hitting the Right Note “Looks like a foghorn,” I thought when I saw the curved, brass horn at the fairgrounds of the Khajuraho Dance Festival. Apart from being famous for archaeological ruins and national parks, Madhya Pradesh is also known for its metal handicrafts. From pots, pans, and curios to musical instruments and bells, these artefacts, mainly made of brass, are abundant in the state’s markets and fairs. The young boy at the stall told me that it’s a torai that he made himself, a skill that is handed down the generations. When he put it to his mouth to play, I almost covered my ears expecting the blaring sound of a foghorn. Instead it was similar to the sound of someone blowing a conch shell—a low, deep yet gentle rumble that resonated of festivity, tradition, art, and a strong connection to indigenous traditions. —Features Writer, Rumela Basu

NGT INDIA@WORK

Freewheeling by the Sea

NAT GEO JOURNEYS

Ambassador of Adventure

BRUCE POON TIP FOUNDER, G ADVENTURES

Bruce Poon Tip, founder of G Adventures, an innovative tour company that now offers trips with National Geographic, talks hairy souvenirs, tourism benefits, and bungee jumps. WHY DOES TRAVEL MATTER?

Travel is good for the soul. Understanding

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

other cultures and other people gives you a better appreciation of where you come from. I always say travel is the fastest path to peace. It’s a vehicle to get rid of a lot of ignorance because you realize how ultimately everyone’s connected. WHAT’S AN ACTIVITY YOU’RE GLAD YOU

TRIED BUT WOULDN’T WANT TO AGAIN?

I used to bungee jump and not think about it, but then I had kids, and kids give you a reason to live. Prior to that, I had a “live today, for tomorrow we die” attitude. I used to throw myself off bridges, which is ridiculous when I think about it now. I don’t recall a rush, I

just recall screaming my guts out. IS THERE ANYTHING YOU MAKE SURE TO TAKE HOME FROM YOUR TRAVELS?

I bring back masks from trips where cultures actually use masks. I have 100-year-old ones from Burkina Faso and Cameroon with real hair. —Hannah Sheinberg

CHIRODEEP CHAUDHURI (TORAI), DIYA KOHLI (SEGWAY), G ADVENTURES, INC. (MAN)

While I might be grinning in the picture, when I initially scrambled onto a Segway during my recent trip to Tel Aviv, I was a bundle of nerves. The fact that one of the people in our group had done a 360° spin and fallen right off her Segway, didn’t help matters. Once I was on it, I realized that all I had to do was control my own body and that would determine the motion of the Segway. Reassured, I started enjoying myself as I made my way down the sunny promenade curving along the Mediterranean Sea. A languorous beach life unfolded as I zipped past glistening sunbathers, kids building sandcastles or playing beach ball, and families enjoying tall drinks in the numerous cafés along the coast. For the first time in my life, I was comfortable controlling something with wheels and also got to experience the seaside in a whole new way. — Senior Associate Editor, Diya Kohli

I NSID E OU T

Heaven in a Wildﬂower FINDING BLISS IN MAN-MADE WONDERS AND RAW NATURE

have always enjoyed gardens, alone or with company. They are great spaces to muse upon the passage of time and the meaning of life. I’ve enjoyed picnics at Lodhi Gardens in Delhi, the profusion of flowers at the Shalimar Gardens in Kashmir and spent a pleasant afternoon watching ducks at Regency Park in London. Recently, I visited Singapore to meet two friends from college. We decided to visit the Gardens by the Bay, the popular city attraction. I expected swathes of clipped green grass and neat rows of pretty flowers enticing a kaleidoscope of butterflies. As I entered an enormous building, I realized that the Gardens were more of a technological and scientific marvel than an artistic arrangement of nature’s creations. The Cloud Forest sounded like the magical woods in a Tolkien novel, but when I was actually there it looked more like a scene from Avatar. A tall green tower, girdled by elliptical walkways stood under a checkered steel dome. We took an elevator to The Lost World at the top and walked down marvelling at the ready spread of flowers, plants, leaves, lichen, and tribal totems, the compression of a vast tropical forest around a 115-foot structure. The steady hush of water falling from multiple pipes mimicking a waterfall, mingled with the clicking of cameras and chatter of tourists. Next we headed to the Flower Dome, the land of eternal spring. The damp warm mist of the tropics was replaced by a dry temperate breeze. Under the largest glass greenhouse in the world, we found natural vegetation and native flowers from Gardens by the Bay, South America, California, Australia Singapore and the Mediterranean. I felt amazed, informed, and entertained. Yet there was a feeling of disquiet, a sense of confusion. Over the years, we have tried to tame nature, to tease and torture its forces into submission for our survival and comfort, in service to our hubris. Meanwhile our real forests are depleting rapidly, under attack from development. And because we feel the need to preserve them in some form, we have recreated entire ecosystems, reproduced the sounds and sights of nature. We can now walk through a rainforest under the biomes of the Eden Project in Cornwall, or enjoy sun-kissed sands and palm-fringed pools of Tropical Islands resort in Germany.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Nirupama Subramanian is a columnist and author of two novels, Keep The Change and Intermission. She has also won the Commonwealth Short Story Competition prize in 2006 for her short ﬁction.

Despite technological advances that allow us some measure of control over nature, I am still drawn to her raw, authentic aspects. I remembered the thrill of seeing a pug mark on the track during a safari at Corbett National Park. It was more exciting than gazing at a tiger at close quarters at the best zoo in the world. On a walk along a trail in Nainital, I recall the joy of finding a pine cone, polished to a soft brown shine, its woody petals aligned in a perfect geometry. In a rocky pool on the beach at Mahabalipuram, I saw an orange starfish flex its arms. At Oia, in Santorini, Greece, I joined thousands of people and waited patiently for a brief glimpse of the sunset over the seas, even though it was a sight I’d already seen in many postcards and films. In person, these sights afforded me a pleasure that was beyond any price. As we returned from the Gardens by the Bay, the Supertrees, tall structures that blended wires and vines, came alive and glowed like giant candles. I wondered if we would ever be able to capture the grandeur, simplicity, and spontaneity of nature in the lavish spectacles that we try so hard to create. Humans are programmed for predictability, but long for serendipity. We are delighted by man-made wonders, yet desire that moment of awe when we feel the presence of something great and mysterious. So we build tall buildings that scrape the skies, magnificent gardens that resemble paradise, and yet we yearn to see heaven in a wildflower in the natural world.

MARTY WINDLE/MOMENT/GETTY IMAGES

Voices |

CREW CU T

Pictures Speak a Thousand Words UNBIDDEN IMAGES IN FARAWAY LANDS TELL POWERFUL STORIES

y bedside table is currently piled high with books about Israel. I am someone who pretty much has a book for every place I go to. The table by my bed usually holds the key to my latest travel plans. When a friend remarked that perhaps there was no need to travel at all after all that reading, I wondered if there was any strength to that observation. In this particular case I had felt the need to do an especially large amount of reading to understand Israel’s sights, sounds, and complexities. Yet, once I started, I felt like Alice plummeting down a rabbit hole of information. I emerged on the other side, my head swollen with facts, ﬁgures, and opinions, even more confused about the place and its context. This was before I went. When I returned and started to recount my travels, none of the words I had read about history, politics, or wars came back to me. Instead, what came to mind unbidden were a few incredibly powerful images. In Israel, a strange thing had happened. All my reading crystallized into a few clear impressions. Half-understood concepts and theories became whole as I walked around various cities. Images of ordinary, everyday things became intimate revelations. The region’s history and conﬂict began to be laid bare for me to understand, consume, and process. In Jerusalem’s Old City, visiting the most sacred site for Judaism atop the Temple Mount, I was drawn to a singular image of a devout Jew. Among the hundreds who had come to the Western or Wailing Wall, this man stood out. He had pressed his entire body onto the uneven stones of the wall, seemingly trying to close all the distance between him and the ancient site. Another day, driving through the harsh desert of the Negev, I noticed my guide’s map. She had marked off large chunks—the West Bank and Gaza Strip—with a black marker. Just then, there appeared on the landscape a wall. The vast swathe of dusty mountains and dry riverbeds was suddenly bifurcated by a 20-foot-high embankment that seemed to stretch forever. Beyond the wall, stretching into

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Diya Kohli is SeniorAssociate Editor at National Geograpic Traveller India. She loves the many stories of big old cities. For her, the best kind of travel experience involves long rambling walks through labyrinthine lanes with plenty of food stops along the way.

the horizon were the towns and settlements of Palestine, with towers and mosques glinting in the merciless sun. This was a panorama like no other. It was not a particularly picture-worthy sight, but one that was harsh, unrelenting, and tangible. It brought home the reality of a riven region, divided in more ways than one. I recall a time when as a young college student in Kolkata I knew I would have to move from the only home Id ever known. Thirty-four years of communist rule had led to the state’s progressive economic decline. Factories shut, small businesses collapsed, and big industries closed Kolkata offices. The resulting lack of jobs meant that young people increasingly looked elsewhere to build a life and career. A short while before I left, I took a boat ride on the Hooghly River around sunset. My boatman steered his rickety vessel expertly over the currents. I saw that oft-photographed image of the Howrah Bridge silhouetted against the orange sky. When I looked away from the bridge on either bank, I also saw the ghostly facades of once flourishing jute and paper factories. A lone commercial craft floated languorously on what was once a Western Wall, Jerusalem bustling waterway. This bittersweet picture of the city was a poignant one for me, capturing all that I felt. It has flashed through my mind many times since, during my life elsewhere. And it has conveyed greater depth than all the op-eds and academic critiques on the politics of West Bengal I have read. These snapshots of places that I have in my mind have little to do with the actual photographs I took. Each time I encounter such a moment, I stop to take in the sight. By the time I remember to turn on my camera, the moment has passed. Unrecorded in any form, these unexpected images become markers of history, politics, religion, society, people, and my personal encounters with them. Ironically, it is these images that give me my own words to write. And I realize that I travel to places in search of just such vignettes and all the books in the world cannot be a substitute for that.

TALI BUDLENDER & NICK LOGAN/LONELY PLANET IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES

Voices |

NAVIGATE 28

EXPERIENCE Bhopal’s 300-year-old hammam harks back to nawabi culture

BOOKSHELF Titles that travel from Athens to the Amazon

DETOUR The city of Kingston presents a slice of Canadian history

Sharks, including whitetip reef sharks, circle coral in the new Pitcairn Islands Marine Reserve in the South Paciﬁc.

Treasure Islands A REMOTE ARCHIPELAGO IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN ANCHORS THE WORLD’S LARGEST CONTIGUOUS MARINE RESERVE

remarkable was the abundance of sharks, which signals a healthy ecosystem. Never having seen a human or heard a motor, they were very curious.” Thanks in part to Sala’s expedition, along with the Pitcairn Islands and the Pew Charitable Trusts, the British government in March 2015 established the world’s largest contiguous marine reserve, encompassing around 8,34,000 square kilometres. Sala’s account of the expedition appears in the new National Geographic book, Pristine Seas: Journeys to the Ocean’s Last Wild Places (2015). Pristine Seas is one of National Geographic’s key initiatives dedicated to preserving the last truly wild places in the ocean. More details and updates on

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

the Pristine Seas project are available at ocean.nationalgeographic.com/ocean/ explore/pristine-seas.

ATLAS

Pitcairn Islands, South Paciﬁc Pitcairn is the only inhabited island of this archipelago. Its residents include descendants of sailors who mutinied on the British royal navy ship HMS Bounty in 1798 and settled here.

ENRIC SALA/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

arine ecologist and National Geographic Explorerin-Residence Enric Sala describes the waters around the British-governed Pitcairn Islands as having “the clearest visibility ever measured in the Pacific Ocean.” In March 2012, Sala travelled there with other scientists as part of the National Geographic Society’s Pristine Seas project. “The remote archipelago, east of Australia, was hypnotic, teeming with schools of thousands of fish—red snappers, parrotfish, rudderfish—in an ocean from a thousand years ago. We observed extraordinary things, from a pristine reef with blue corals that looked like giant roses to species never reported before for the Pitcairn Islands. Also

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E XPE R I EN C E

The Hidden Hammam BHOPAL’S 300-YEAR-OLD BATHHOUSE HARKS BACK TO NAWABI CULTURE BY KAREENA GIANANI | ILLUSTRATION BY JIT CHOWDHURY

n a nondescript street in Bhopal’s old city, my taxi slows as I lean out to ask a tea stall owner whether there’s a hammam nearby. His forehead furrows with doubt. Two patrons sipping tea shrug. Did I mishear my guide when he said that the Kamala Park area has a “popular” 300-year-old public bath? I decide to comb the lanes on foot, and am rewarded with a dusty sign proclaiming India’s only functional, 18-century Turkish bath, the Qadimi Hammam. Passing a ruminating goat, I climb a ﬂight of stairs into a modest structure. Outside the hammam sits a posse of women, the masseuses. The 50-something Naseem aapa, with keen, kohlrimmed eyes, introduces herself and ushers me into a small domed reception

with walls the colour of egg yolk. Visitors leave their clothes and belongings here before entering the bathhouse. Naseem tells me the hammam was built in the early 1700s, when the Gonds ruled the area. In the 1720s, the Mughal mercenary Dost Mohammad Khan took over the area and established the city of Bhopal and himself as Nawab. The hammam was eventually gifted to Hajjam Hammu Khalida, a trusted servant of the nawabs, and Naseem’s ancestor. She leads me into a cool, misty passage. As she opens a metal door, a mildly oppressive gust of steam hits my body. I am instructed to lie down on the chamber’s limestone ﬂoor for 20 minutes. Supine in the chamber, I watch clouds of steam furl towards a glass window in the domed ceiling. The hammam is modest compared to the cavernous ceilings and ﬂying arches I’ve seen in sketches of Turkish baths elsewhere. I doubt I would have stepped in if my guide hadn’t recommended it. Most visitors are regulars, like photographer Vijeta Shrivastava, who swears by its beauty treatments. “It looks dingy but it’s a local institution,” she had told me. “It isn’t in the best shape, but their traditional ingredients work really well for me. And it’s great value for money.” On closer inspection, interesting architectural features of the hammam emerge.

The steam chamber sits directly above a wood furnace. Two tanks on opposite sides of the room are filled with cool and hot water. Copper plates below the hot water tank conduct heat, and turn the water into vapour. Under the floor, hot water flows through copper pipes. The masseuses refer to the five vents in the dome overhead as the hammam’s naak (nose) and kaan (ears). After 20 minutes, Naseem returns and, without preamble, splashes warm water on me. I chuckle, remembering a blissful temple elephant I once saw basking in the sun as her caretaker bathed her in a similarly brisk fashion. Naseem kneads and pummels my limbs with a vigour I’ve never experienced at urban spas. The oils and scrubs she uses are made from local spices, according to recipes followed by five generations of her family. Her robust strokes on my body make the chamber echo with ominous smacks. Then, Naseem scrubs my body raw with a pumice stone from Ajmer. Wincing at the dead skin peeling off, I turn to see another client smiling at me. We begin chatting, and I learn she is a mathematics teacher at a local school who comes here regularly to alleviate her back pain. Watching us chit-chat, Naseem tells us that hammams were traditionally significant spaces for people to gather and socialize. Like most of the world’s hammams, Qadimi Hammam is built close to a mosque so locals can wash up before prayer. It’s time for the afternoon namaz, and I am lulled by the plaintive voice of the muezzin, rising and falling in time with Naseem’s expert, rhythmic strokes. Sinking deeper into this nofrills experience, I feel surprisingly, divinely indulged. THE VITALS Qadimi Hammam is in Bhopal’s Old City, 12 km/25 min southeast of the airport (Lane no.2, Kamla Park; 9303090998; open Nov-Mar, 9 a.m.3 p.m. for women, 6 p.m.-11 p.m. for men; massages from `400).

T EC H TRAV EL

App and Away THREE MOBILE DOWNLOADS THAT CAN TAKE THE STRESS OUT OF TRAVEL BY HANNAH LOTT-SCHWARTZ

PACKPOINT

LOUNGEBUDDY

STRAVA

FOR THE PACK RAT

FOR THE LONG LAYOVER

FOR THE WEEKEND WARRIOR

PackPoint generates packing lists based on gender, location, and length of stay. Before spitting out must-haves, the app checks the weather forecast and considers your itinerary, suggesting clothing to help you plan. To include activities apart from those on the app’s basic list, buy the premium version (on iOS and Android; Basic free, Premium `189).

LoungeBuddy? More like LoungeBestie. The app propels avid travellers into pro territory, unlocking a labyrinth of airport lounges and their amenities. Sync your itinerary to see your options—rated from Luxe to Basic, along with photos, price, services, and user reviews—and book directly on your phone (on iOS and Android; free).

Fitness enthusiasts rejoice. Strava makes solo ﬁtness social, no matter where in the world you are. The app connects cyclists and runners through shared routes, with locals’ favourite spots mapped across the globe. On its website, Strava also offers athletic-minded guides for cities, from São Paulo to Sydney (available on iOS and Android; free).

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

PERISCOPE IT OUT Travel ’Scopers show us their world The Periscope app is like Google Street View come to life, with locals to show you around. The video stream is live, so hosts can answer questions you type in real time. Here are our picks for the coolest ’Scopers out there. Don’t be misled by her Kiwi accent: Tour guide and New Zealand transplant @ClaireWad has lived in Paris for 20 years. She cruises neighbourhoods on foot and bicycle, exploring courtyards and cafés, letting her followers choose her adventure by asking questions like “Shall I go in this church?” or “Shall I hop on this riverboat?” @PenguinSix, an American expat living in Hong Kong, films his hike on Victoria Peak almost every morning. Sometimes he takes public transit (subways, ferries) as he talks about life in the city. He’s even filmed from Hong Kong’s tallest building as a typhoon approached. If you love wild animals, follow @GerryVanDerWalt, who leads photo safaris in southern Africa. He’s always trying new techniques, like filming through binoculars so you can see a group of lions up close. Now and then his connection fails, but watching a family of elephants cross the road in real time is worth the wait. —Marilyn Terrell

Lion cubs in South Africa

EIKO OJALA (ILLUSTRATIONS), GERRY VAN DER WALT/WILD EYE (LIONS)

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Urban Sketchers’ motto of “showing the world one drawing at a time” allows artists and art enthusiasts to travel slow and focus on the details in places new and old.

Super Groupers CITIES REVEALED THROUGH GROUP RUNS, SKETCHING SESSIONS, AND THE EYES OF LOCALS BY KAREENA GIANANI & DIYA KOHLI

BIG DRAW Urban Sketchers believe in learning

about the world one squiggle or brushstroke at a time. The international community of artists and art lovers has chapters in numerous cities across continents. It aims to connect locals and travellers who wish to draw on location and see neighbourhoods in a different light and shade. Most chapters organise regular Sketchwalks, where anybody from amateur doodlers to

skilled artists can sign up and sketch away at designated sites. Urban Sketchers’ moderators are a motley group of architects, designers, and artists who also conduct a few open-forall workshops every year. Some of them add interesting twists to the experience; a recent workshop in Lisbon, Portugal, for instance, invited people to sketch panoramic city views using twigs and Chinese ink. For travellers, joining Urban Sketchers means getting to know old neighbourhoods intimately, swapping stories, and hanging out with cool artists and locals. There’s no better souvenir than freezing the sweeping piazzas of Milan or old, paper lantern-lit bylanes of Singapore in a sketchbook, rendered in watercolour (www. urbansketchers.org).

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

RUNNERS UNITED

Having a good time is high on the agenda of the Hash House Harriers. In fact, by their own description, they are “a drinking club with a running problem.” The Harriers started in 1938 when a group of homesick British officers in Malaysia, wanted to get a spot of exercise, socialize, and enjoy a couple of beers, all at the same time. They put together the hash run which was a crazy combination of the traditional British game of hare and hounds, and a pub crawl. In the modern-day version, the club organizes runs in which groups of runners called the hares follow clues, maps, or trails laid out by another group called the hounds. Each club makes up its own rules, but what remains consistent is the commitment to ﬁtness while “satisfying

EASTNINE INC./GETTY IMAGES

hether travelling solo or in a group, these international social clubs and communities offer likeminded individuals a chance to connect with each other and locals, whichever part of the globe they may be in.

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UR BA N E XPLO R E R

the thirst generated through exercise in…beer.” The runs or hashes can meander from one bar to the next, or they can be a round of the city’s historical monuments, followed by a binge at a local pub. Hashers are easily identiﬁed as a ragtag group of runners in oddball costumes with pints in hand. There are different kinds of runs to choose from depending on your interest and most big cities have a chapter or affiliation. The local Facebook page or website puts up this information in advance and many of the events are scheduled on a weekend. Numerous clubs are listed on www.worldharrierorganization.com. For others, a simple Google search of “hash harrier” followed by the city name will throw up options. Another global running club is the Front Runners. This club draws its name from LGBT icon Patricia Nell Warren’s 1974 novel, The Front Runner, and is targeted at the LGBT community although it is open to all. With affiliations across the globe, it is as much about walking and running as it is about socializing, and discussing issues related to the community. Special events are held during annual Pride parades

which are announced on the website www.frontrunners.org. THE GLOCAL APP

Get under the skin of a new city by hanging out with locals and discovering their favourite haunts. The website Showaround connects the curious traveller, who wants to go beyond the regular guidebook, with locals who act

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

as guides for an hourly fee, though some also offer their services free. The network includes company-veriﬁed guides in over 2,500 cities in 166 countries, who tailor city tours depending on the traveller’s interests. From the buzziest bars in Barcelona to alternative experiences in Paris, Showaround locals promise a unique travel experience (www. showaround.com; free app on iOS).

PARIKSHIT RAO (TRAIN), LOTHAR KNOPP/MOMENT/GETTY IMAGES (CITY)

The Bombay Hash Harriers are a chapter of this worldwide group of runners known for oddball traditions (top). Getting “Iced” is one such ritual which involves sitting on a slab of ice and chugging away the pints; Sightseeing with a local offers alternative experiences like a spectacular city view from an unknown rooftop (bottom), or a drink at a character-ﬁlled neighbourhood dive.

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BOOKSHELF

A Grand Reading Tour TITLES THAT TRAVEL FROM ATHENS TO THE AMAZON BY DON GEORGE THE GEOGRAPHY OF GENIUS By Eric Weiner (Simon & Schuster, 2016)

Following up on his best-selling book, The Geography of Bliss, author Eric Weiner travels to Athens, Hangzhou, Florence, Edinburgh, Kolkata, Vienna, and Silicon Valley to investigate why quantum leaps of intellect seem to occur in certain places at certain times.

In this gripping novel author Lawrence Osborne recalls 20th-century literary greats, Graham Greene and Somerset Maugham. This densely atmospheric novel is about foreigners and locals navigating fortune and fate among the mists, landscapes, and lush rice ﬁelds of Cambodia. THE WAY AROUND: FINDING MY MOTHER AND MYSELF AMONG THE YANOMAMI By David Good (Dey Street Books, 2015)

The son of an American anthropologist and a woman from the Yanomami tribe, Good ventures from his New Jersey home into the heart of the Amazon to reconnect with his mother. He chronicles a journey of self-discovery and what it means to ﬁnd his roots. LIFE AND DEATH IN THE ANDES By Kim MacQuarrie (Simon & Schuster, 2015)

The human history that has shaped South America is dramatically recreated in this rich account of iconic Andes characters, from Pablo Escobar and Hiram Bingham to Che Guevara and Butch Cassidy. WIDE-OPEN WORLD By John Marshall (Ballantine Books, 2015)

In the book, Life and Death in the Andes, Emmy-winning ﬁlmmaker Kim MacQuarrie chronicles stories of the Andes, and the disappearance of indigenous cultures (top); The collection of sculptures at Museo Nazionale del Bargello in Florence (bottom) includes works by Michelangelo.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

For the Marshalls, six months of sweaty voluntourism in places like Thailand, India, and Costa Rica draw them together as no family therapist ever can. Don’t miss the spider monkey encounter.

LUIS DAVILLA/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA (MOUNTAIN), CHRISTINA ANZENBERGER-FINK & TONI ANZENBERGER/ANZENBERGER/REDUX (MUSEUM)

HUNTERS IN THE DARK By Lawrence Osborne (Hogarth, 2016)

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Nineteenth-century military life and the exploits of Canadian troops come alive through the animated retelling of stories at Fort Henry.

For Old Time’s Sake THE CITY OF KINGSTON PRESENTS A SLICE OF CANADIAN HISTORY BY KAREENA GIANANI

hand. She introduces herself as Corporal Emily Coyle, my guide for the day. Role play and performances are vital to experiencing Fort Henry, which is part of the Rideau Canal UNESCO World Heritage Site. Kingston was a much-coveted port in the early 1800s, and Canada’s British colonizers were anxious about an attack by the U.S. They built the original fort during the War of 1812, but Kingston was never attacked and the fort fell into disrepair. It was reconstructed in 1837, manned by the British Army until 1870, and then garrisoned by Canadian soldiers until 1891. As Corporal Coyle takes me around the fort, I feel like I’ve stepped into a time loop, with stern-faced, moustachioed army men for company.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Since 1938, the Fort Henry Guard, a military re-enactment organisation, has role-played 19th-century Canadian life in the fort’s vast parade square. The reenactors are students from Kingston’s colleges and high schools, rigorously trained in parading, and British Army infantry and artillery drills. Some students play civilians, such as the wives of soldiers, or schoolmistresses who THE VITALS The city of Kingston is a 260 km/2.45 hr drive east of Toronto, in Ontario, Canada. Fort Henry is a 4 km/10 min drive from Kingston’s waterfront (www. forthenry.com; open daily 9.30 a.m.5 p.m.; entry, which includes a guide, CAD18/`920 for adults, children under 6 free).

ARCO IMAGES/SCHOENING/DINODIA

erched on a cliff, Fort Henry rises above the cerulean waters of Lake Ontario, keeping a watchful eye over the harbour of Kingston city in southeast Canada. Despite the wind whipping around it, the 200-year-old limestone structure looks barely ravaged by the elements, as if it sprang up just yesterday. Walking into the fort, I see a hulking soldier, dressed in the distinctive red coat of the historic British army, fuming at a junior for misconduct. A schoolmistress in a long, voluminous dress with antiquated puffy sleeves, passes them and smiles at me. Turning towards the click-clack of shoes to my left, I see ﬁve soldiers pulling an old gun carriage. A bright-eyed woman wearing an army uniform approaches, baton in

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taught their children. A group of soldiers load a small amount of gunpowder into a cannon with swift, controlled movements. A military tune ﬁlls the square and a thrilling demonstration ensues, complete with orchestrated gunﬁre and marches, the kind I’ve only seen on television. On closer inspection, I notice bright yellow earplugs peeping out of the soldiers’ ears. Devoid of any ornamentation, the limestone ramparts of Fort Henry look austere compared to most large Indian forts, which often also functioned as palaces. But the stories contained within these walls draw me into the past. With her shoulders pulled back, Corporate Coyle never once slips out of character as she relates tales of treason and bravery. The booming voices of officers provide the soundtrack as I tour the privies and hear about German soldiers

who escaped via drainage tunnels during World War II. Walking through ominous, dimly lit passages that lead to the Fire Chambers that housed defensive guns, I peek into the Married Quarters of the Canadian troops. Nearly a century ago, four couples lived in each of these small rooms with frayed curtains drawn between them for privacy. In the Cookhouse, giant cauldrons, pots, and pans look ready for a cook to come in any minute to prepare the boiled food, beef stew, and soup that soldiers ate. These stories bring the old fort to life in a way that plaques and conventional tour guides never can. I’m not surprised when, after the tour, Coyle tells me that she used to be a sociology student, but after conducting 400 tours of Fort Henry over four summers, she decided to pursue a master’s degree in heritage conservation and urban planning instead. Returning to the Kingston waterfront, I ﬁnd the spell of history lingers in its broad walkways and the heritage limestone buildings that inspire the nickname “Limestone City.” Kingston was Canada’s original capital and is now a delightful patchwork of old and new, as

Built in 1844, the magniﬁcent City Hall (top) is the cynosure of Kingston; Street performers (bottom) are a common sight on the broad pavements of Kingston. The city even has an annual four-day festival, the Kingston Buskers Rendezvous, celebrating this form of entertainment.

I discover on a short, guided trolley tour through the historic downtown area. Next to Ontario Street’s neoclassical City Hall are hip art galleries and cafés. A modern glass hotel abuts the red-brick Victorian fire department building. I spot an elderly patron snoozing on the porch of the Prince George Hotel, built in ashlar limestone in 1809. In a quiet leafy lane, my guide points out Bellevue House, an Italianate villa that was the home of Sir John A. Macdonald, Canada’s first prime minister. Later that evening, I nibble on fish and chips at Sir John’s Public House pub, located in what was the

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

politician’s law office from the mid1800s. I ﬁnd that Macdonald is quite the local celebrity even today. Even the seats are upholstered in red tartan as homage to Macdonald’s Scottish roots. Outside, a group of local theatre artists are immersed in a performance of their play, In Sir John A’s Footsteps. And, the owner tells me, there was a big celebration for Macdonald’s 200th birth anniversary last year. As I sip on local beer, looking up at a stained-glass portrait of the former prime minister, I experience a fondness for a historical period I knew nothing about, as if I had actually lived through it.

HENRY GEORGI/ALL CANADA PHOTOS/DINODIA (BUILDING), KAREENA GIANANI (PERFORMERS)

Since 1938, the Fort Henry Guard, a military re-enactment organisation, has role-played 19th-century Canadian life in the fort’s vast parade square

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T HE WEE KEN D E R

Some of the Esplanade’s heritage properties like the 1935 movie theatre, Metro Cinema, are in the process of getting a facelift. Next door is the Metropolitan Building, now restored to its former glory.

A Moveable Feast

olkata is swaddled in multiple histories—19th century colonial grandeur, glamorous swinging sixties, violent Naxalite years, communist decades, and the slow arrival of 21st century glitter. It is a city of migrants and each community has imprinted its own culture onto a particular corner. Begin the weekend with a walk to understand the city’s multicultural past. Calcutta Walks offers a tour through old neighbourhoods of Central Kolkata inhabited by Chinese, Anglo Indians, Parsis, Jews, and Armenians respectively. One of the highlights of this walk is the hearty Chinese breakfast at Tiretta Bazaar, one of the stops along the tour. This is a true breakfast of champions as stalls offer assorted treats including ﬁsh ball soup and pork dumplings cooked by old Chinese mamas (www.calcuttawalks.

com; `2,000 per person; duration 3 hours; begins 7 a.m. outside Indian Airlines building on C.R. Avenue). OLD GUARD

After this sampler, focus your attention on central Kolkata. No visit to the city is complete without a jaunt through Chowringhee, the erstwhile White Town of the British Raj. It’s also the name of an arterial road passing through the city centre, skirted by the sprawling green area called the Maidan on one side and magniﬁcent colonial-era buildings on the other. Adorned in stucco-covered brick, many of these grand structures were residences of English officials and earned Kolkata the sobriquet of “City of Palaces.” A good point to begin any walk through Chowringhee is at the Esplanade Metro Station. It opens out into the hustle and bustle of shops lining the arcade leading

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

up to The Oberoi Grand hotel or simply The Grand, the undisputed Grande Dame of the neighbourhood. Walk in through its gates to admire its elegant interiors and have a cup of tea or a glass of bubbly at their stylish coffee shop La Terrasse (15, Jawaharlal Nehru Road; 033 2249 2323; glass of wine from `700). SHOP HOP

Chaotic and colourful New Market is a ﬁve-minute walk southeast of The Grand. Officially named Sir Stuart Hogg Market, it was “new” over a century ago when it opened in 1874, but the name has stuck around. It is possible to ﬁnd the most obscure things within the profusion of shops inside the market’s cheerful red Gothic-era facade. There are some items that every traveller must buy and these include silver jewellery from Tibetan-

STEVE RAYMER/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE/CORBIS/IMAGELIBRARY

MUSIC, HISTORY, AND CULINARY DELIGHTS IN CENTRAL KOLKATA BY DIYA KOHLI

T HE WEE KEN D E R

South Park Cemetery has an interesting array of graves, many of them obelisks (top left); Patrons sample pork and ďŹ sh ball soup at the Chinese breakfast in Tiretta Bazaar (top right); Many of the restobars in and around Park Street were the original jazz clubs of India (bottom left); The Saturday Night Blues Band (bottom right) makes a regular appearance at the popular Someplace Else pub.

owned Chamba Lamba, dense plum cake and chocolate brownies from legendary Jewish bakery Nahoum & Sons, and exquisite shawls from Pumposh Kashmir Shawl Emporium. ECLECTIC MIX

From here, continue east for half a kilometre to Mirza Ghalib Street, also known as Free School Street, a place with a character as diverse as the people who live here. Novelist William Makepeace Thackeray was born here, in 1811, at house number 56B. Since 1884, the building has housed the Armenian College and Philanthropic Academy, founded to educate the children of

Armenians who settled in the city. Historical value aside, Mirza Ghalib Street is a hub for budget travellers to the city with a higgledy-piggledy assortment of backpacker hotels, cheap lunch homes, and shops festooned with Christmas tinsel all year round. It has a myriad biryani joints including the absolutely unmissable Arsalan (119A, Intersection of Ripon Street and Mirza Ghalib Street; 033-30990567; special mutton biryani costs `260). The street is lined with second-hand book shops and roadside stalls with an eclectic collection. There are rare editions or personal notes, bookends, and inscriptions that make each book a collectorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s item.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

MUSIC MASALA

Mirza Ghalib Street is also great hunting ground for music lovers and collectors, with rare cassette tapes and piles of vinyl hoarded in street stalls. The records may not always be in mint condition, but it is thrilling to go through boxes and discover rare singles by Jimi Hendrix, bootlegs of Grateful Dead, or albums by the Allman Brothers Band. The key to a good bargain here is the ability to haggle. Among the many makeshift shops, Record Prince near Lindsay Street is a good place to dig up treasures. For those who want to do more than just listen, stroll into Braganza & Co. (56C, Mirza Ghalib Street) or J. Reynold & Co.

DENNIS K. JOHNSON/LONELY PLANET IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES (CEMETERY), MANJIT SINGH HOONJAN (FOOD STALL & RESTAURANT), PHOTO COURTESY: THE PARK (BAND)

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T HE WEE KEN D E R

The sprawling Maidan (left), where British army soldiers once went for regular marching practice, is now a favourite with joggers; A shopkeeper (right) in Tiretta Bazaar, the old Chinatown of Kolkata, still uses an abacus to total up purchases.

cated to British soldiers and government officers who died here is right next to St Xavier’s Collegiate School for Boys and the adjoining college, among the city’s premier educational institutions. Books bought from Oxford Bookstore’s well-curated collection are best browsed across the road at Flurys, a European tea room and iconic Park Street landmark.

FOOD HEAD

PARK PRESENT

At the head of the street, where Mirza Ghalib meets Park Street, is the atmospheric restaurant Mocambo, once a cabaret and jazz venue. Today it is a charming family joint, still serving up mean European fare like devilled crab, fish Florentine, and baked Alaska. (25B, Park Street; 033-22654300; meal for two `1,600 approx). Park Street is Kolkata’s approximation of downtown and there’s much to explore here. Smoky kathi roll shops like Kusum Snack Bar churn out an unbeatable combination of egg, chicken, and mutton kebabs rolled in flaky parathas (21, Karnani Mansion, 033-30280478, rolls start at `30). It stands cheek by jowl with old-school fine dining restaurants like Kwality that have been making a mean saag meat and pindi chhole for many decades (17, Park Street, 033-30990567, meal for two `900) . Legendary dive bars like Olypub and Moulin Rouge jostle for space with a lodge for the Freemasons. The 18th-century South Park Street Cemetery with elaborate cenotaphs dedi-

While there are malls and modern bars aplenty in the city, there is nothing more atmospheric than a night out at Park Street where the cult of music reigns supreme. In the swinging sixties and seventies, Park Street was regarded a Mecca of western music in India and stars like Pam Craine, Louis Banks, and Usha Uthup set the stage on ﬁre. One of the popular spots is Trincas, a quieter version of its former self. Yet, it continues to draw old timers and travellers alike with occasional pub quizzes, comedy evenings, and jazz afternoons. It offers good quality continental and tandoori fare and plenty of cheap chilled beer (17, Park Street, 033-22297825; meal for two `1,200). Right next door, is the swish The Park hotel. Its tiny English pub, Someplace Else, is a beacon to live music in the city. There is a fabulous band playing here on any given day of the week, ﬁlling the air with riffs of rock ‘n’ roll, jazz, and blues (17, Park Street; 033 40049000; happy hours 4.30-8.30 p.m.; most bands start playing at 9 p.m.).

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

End the night with a walk past Park Street’s shuttered shops, the road lined with yellow taxis waiting to take the last revellers home. Even in the late hours, the neon signs, fairy lights, and street lamps shine on. I don’t know if Kolkata is as charming as Ernest Hemingway’s Paris but, much like that city, it has a habit of staying with those who come here and remains “a moveable feast.” THE VITALS Calcutta Photo Tours specializes on walks featuring vivid colours and visual stories woven into Kolkata’s fabric. Proprietor Manjit Singh Hoonjan is an avid photographer with a wealth of knowledge about the city. He offers tours like European Calcutta, Mesmerizing Markets, and a most interesting photography workshop inside a cemetery (www. calcuttaphototours.com; prices start at `1,500 for a shared tour). Calcutta Walks offers tours spanning different aspects of the city, from its multicultural history to its food and culture. Besides walking trails, visitors can also sign up for cycling tours or rides to the nearby colonial towns of Bengal on Enﬁeld bikes. Their other offerings include a customized haunted trail and a “Cook as the Bongs do” tour which features a market visit and cooking demo (calcuttawalks.com; approx. `2,000 per tour, varies based on group size and itinerary).

MANJIT SINGH HOONJAN (TREE), NEHA DARA (WOMAN)

(15, Mirza Ghalib Street). These music shops stock an enviable collection of guitars, drums, electric pianos, and more. Friendly, knowledgeable shop attendants can suggest an instrument that ﬁts your level and encourage you to try them out. If you are lucky you might witness an impromptu jam session by musicians testing out the equipment.

SMART TRAVELLER 48

MONEY MANAGER A guide to Dubai’s glossy locales and cultural heart

CHECKING IN Go small at three hotspots more famous for big resorts

Large pagodas adorned a recent China pavilion at Dubai’s Global Village, an annual fair featuring handicrafts, carnival attractions, and international cuisine.

Only in Dubai FROM MUST-VISITS TO HIDDEN GEMS, HERE’S A GUIDE TO MAKING THE MOST OF THIS PULSATING CITY | BY SUDESHNA GHOSH

ubai is best known as a glitzy, new-age city that loves its superlatives—world’s tallest, biggest, longest, and so on. But beyond its shiny surface, there is a culture waiting to be explored—from traditional Bedouin heritage to an urban arts movement. The shopping malls and world’s tallest tower are all definitely worth fitting into a trip. And, with the help of this itinerary, travellers can also discover a side to the Dubai that locals love, filled with exciting flavours, age-old history, and plenty of charm.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

GETTING THERE There are numerous

non-stop daily flights (approximately three hours) from major Indian cities to Dubai every day and fares regularly go as low as `15,000 for a round-trip ticket. From other cities in India it’s easy to find connections to flights to Dubai. VISA You can obtain a visa for Dubai through visa or travel agencies (www. dubaivisa.net). Process online, or through Emirates or Etihad airlines, if you are travelling with them. A 30-day single entry tourist visa costs `6,500. GETTING AROUND Dubai has excellent public transport, especially its metro

STEPHANIE KUYKENDAL/CORBIS NEWS/IMAGELIBRARY

Here is National Geographic Traveller India’s handy guide to Dubai, a cosmopolitan Middle Eastern city that is ideal for a long weekend visit for families. We’ve designed a midlevel holiday including numerous activities and dining options with prices, so you can plan a trip according to your budget. The cost of this three-day itinerary for a family of four (two adults and two children) is `1,20,000 without airfare or visa costs.

system. To use the metro you need a NOL Card, a prepaid smart card that deducts the fare as you go. Trains have a ladies and children-only section. (dubaimetro.eu, runs Sat-Thu 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. and until midnight on Fri, fares from AED3/`55 depending on distance travelled; www.nol.ae, one-day pass AED14/`254 includes travel on trains, buses, and water buses.) Taxis are available everywhere. A ride from the airport to Downtown Dubai should cost AED40-50/`720-900 and to Jumeirah AED75/`1,358, plus an airport ﬂag charge of AED25/`450. In Deira or Bur Dubai, cross the Dubai Creek on abras, local water taxis which are traditional boats made of wood (5 a.m. to midnight; minimum fare AED12/`220). TIPS

Weekends in Dubai are Friday and Saturday. Sunday is a weekday. Tuesday nights are universally ladies night and most bars have free drinks or deals for women. Get your hands on the Entertainer

YOUR EXPENSE STATS The cost of this itinerary for a family of four is `1,20,000 for three days. It includes numerous sightseeing trips and eating at a variety of places that are mostly mid-level. You can also plan a trip that’s cheaper if you opt for less expensive restaurants and avail discounts. If you want to splurge, Dubai has no dearth of options for luxurious hotels, restaurants, and other nightlife, and you will get your money’s worth.

30%

16%

FOOD

STAY

TRAVEL

49%

ACTIVITIES

Budget

Mid-Range

Expensive

app through someone you know, or buy it for yourself. It offers excellent buyone-get-one-free discounts on hotels, restaurants, water parks, desert safaris etc. The savings will more than justify the cost of the app which is hefty at AED445/`8,050. You need a data/ Wi-Fi connection to use it. There is also a similarly priced Entertainer Dubai coupon book. Group buying websites such as Groupon (www.groupon.ae) also offer ongoing deals on many activities, so it’s worth keeping an eye on them. STAY Dubai has plenty of luxury hotels. Those looking to splurge can try St. Regis Dubai for an upscale experience. Its neoclassical design features chandeliers and marble, a grand staircase, and a musical fountain (www.stregisdubai. com; doubles from AED1,400/`25,313). A slightly less expensive option is Vida Downtown Dubai. A homegrown brand (from Emaar, Dubai’s biggest property developer), this boutique hotel is located in the thick of the Downtown area. Contemporary design and efficient service

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

MASSIMO BORCHI/LATITUDE/ATLANTIDE PHOTOTRAVEL/CORBIS/ IMAGELIBRARY (PEOPLE), BRUCE YUANYUE BI/LONELY PLANET IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES (FORT), OSCITY/SHUTTERSTOCK (CITY)

The At the Top observation deck (left) on the 125th ﬂoor of the Burj Khalifa is 1,496 feet above ground and offers 360° views of Dubai; The city’s oldest structure, the 18th-century Al Fahidi fort (right), has a museum that showcases the emirate’s history.

M O N EY M A N AGER

give it a young vibe (www.vida-hotels. com; doubles from AED629/`11,430). For a more affordable option, check in to the Novotel Dubai Al Barsha. The no-frills hotel offers comfortable accommodation in a 42-storey building easily recognizable for its green, hanging garden wall. It is conveniently located just off the arterial Sheikh Zayed Road, with a metro station within walking distance. There is a kids’ club and children under 16 stay free in the same room (www.novotel.com; doubles from AED386/`6,980). For a really unique stay, the XVA Art Hotel is a one of a kind property tucked into the heart of the historical district (see Day 1 itinerary). This atmospheric hotel housed in a heritage building has 14 cosy rooms, each designed by a different artist, and a lovely courtyard café (www.xvahotel.com; doubles from AED315/`5,768).

DAY 1 To quote Julie Andrews, the beginning is a very good place to start. Give yourself an introduction to the city by soaking in its history in old Dubai. Along the southern shore of the Dubai creek, in the heart of the Bur Dubai district, lies the

Dubai Museum in the historic Al Fahidi Fort (open 8.30 a.m.-8.30 p.m. SatThu and 2.30-8.30 p.m. on Fri; entry AED3/`56). The compact museum offers a beginner’s lesson in the city’s history with exhibits and interactive displays. It is in the Al Fahidi Historical District, with its labyrinth of narrow alleys lined with restored traditional wind tower-style buildings that now house art galleries, museums, and cafés. Make a pit stop at The Coffee Museum, which showcases all things coffee, from antique accessories to books about coffee. Don’t drink coffee here though—save it for the Arabian Teahouse Café next door, one of the city’s best-kept secrets. A nondescript doorway leads into a leafy courtyard of white wicker furniture and billowing canopies. Historical artefacts and blackand-white photographs summon up the city’s past. Stay for a beverage break; they have a diverse tea menu with a range of salads, sandwiches, and pastas. Or linger to sample their limited but good selection of Arabian dishes, such as the rich chicken salona curry, or grilled shish tawook (www.arabianteahouse. co; mains for around AED55/`995 , drinks from AED20/`362). Another

lunch option is the adjacent Local House restaurant, where visitors can try Emirati specialties such as chicken mandy —a subtly spiced rice and meat dish, similar to biryani—and their signature camel burger (around AED150/`2,712 for two). For lunch with a view, try Bayt al Wakeel Arabian restaurant, located right by Dubai Creek, with an outdoor deck that juts out over the water on stilts. The food is average, but most come here for the location (around AED170/`3,073 for two). On the other side of the creek, the small Hatam Al Ta’ai in Baniyas Square is where locals eat. All meals come with salad, soup, and a round of hummus (meal for four AED120/`2,170). For a bit of adventure after lunch, hop on to an abra at the abra station ( from AED1/`18, www.rta.ae). Cross over to the old souks on the Deira side of Dubai creek and soak in the bustling marketstyle environment, similar to India’s chowks. Then, enjoy an “only in Dubai” moment by travelling from the old city straight to the gates of the futuristic Dubai Mall in Downtown Dubai. Set aside a couple of hours for a shopping spree at one of the world’s biggest malls, home to a staggering array of brands.

Dubai creek is the city’s buzzing centre and there are a variety of ways to enjoy its vibe, from a cruise in a wooden dhow to a 2.3-kilometre-long cable car ride over Dubai Creek Park.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

FUTURE LIGHT/PHOTOLIBRARY/GETTY IMAGES

Smart Traveller |

It’s also a good place to tick off some souvenir shopping. Camel Company brings a modern twist to classic Arab souvenirs with their quirky, colourful, and artistically designed novelty items and stuffed toys (kids love their cute, puppy-eyed camels), as well as Dubaithemed T-shirts and stationery. For a more traditional take, Al Jaber Gallery is a convenient one-stop shop for Dubai kitsch, offering everything from coffee pots and shishas to intricate silverware. Also accessible from the mall are the At the Top observation decks of the Burj Khalifa on the 124th, 125th, and 148th ﬂoors (www.burjkhalifa.ae; open 8 a.m.11.30 p.m, opens 5.30 a.m on weekends; adults from AED125/`2,260; children AED95/`1,717 with online booking). Get here around sunset to catch unbeatable views of the skyscrapers amidst the dunes, and to watch the transformation of Dubai into a glittering metropolis. Downtown Dubai is abuzz in the evening. Numerous restaurants line the

classics include an Arabian mezze starring hummus, baba ganoush, fatayer (fried savoury pastries), and grilled kebabs, accompanied by fresh ﬂatbreads (www.leilarestaurant.com; around AED200/`3,616 for two). The Downtown neighbourhood has plenty of other restaurants offering everything from Italian and Thai to exotic Armenian. For those visiting between November

and April, an alternative way to spend the evening is at Global Village. Dubai is a true melting pot of cultures, and nowhere is this better experienced than at this annual fair that takes place in an arena just outside the city. The colourful, vibrant carnival features pavilions from different countries, live entertainment, and plenty of fairgroundstyle activities including a Ferris wheel.

Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard, most offering al fresco dining.

To savour Lebanese cuisine, head to Leila, a popular restaurant featuring

shabby-chic interiors. Their authentic JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

JOHN SHORT/DESIGN PICS/PERSPECTIVES/GETTY IMAGES (MALL), PETER UNGER/LONELY PLANET IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES (MARKET)

Dubai’s malls dazzle with their scale. The lobbies boast impressive features, like the 30-foot-high artiﬁcial waterfall in the Dubai Mall (top); Souk Madinat (bottom) in Jumeirah recreates a traditional marketplace.

Smart Traveller |

M O N EY M A N AGER

It’s a great place to bag a bargain when it comes to eclectic handicrafts as well as sample authentic ﬂavours from a range of international food stalls (www. globalvillage.ae; open 1 Nov 2016-8 April 2017; 4 p.m.-12a.m. Sat-Wed, until 1 a.m. on Thurs, Fri; entry AED15/`271 per head; regular buses ply from the city, route details on website)

DAY 2 Make this a day by the water. A sandy beach is never too far in Dubai. Head to Jumeirah Beach Residence (JBR for the locals) in new Dubai, where you can grab breakfast by the beach, and have a leisurely stroll along the coast. Eggspectation at The Beach mall does, as the name suggests, eggs in many different ways, plus the usual suspects such as pancakes and waffles (www. eggspectation.com; meals for two from AED180/`3,360). This two-year-old mall has a host of cafés, restaurants, play activities for children, and workout equipment for adults to use free of cost. For lunch try Seven Sands, a contemporary Emirati restaurant. The diverse menu includes fresh salads with seasonal vegetables, choubab or Emirati pancakes, maleh korse—a dried ﬁsh dish, ouzi fouga or slowcooked whole baby lamb and rice

cooked together biryani-style, and thereed, a meat and potato stew (www. sevensandsrestaurant.com; meal for two from AED250/`4,520). At JBR, a more reasonable option is Operation: Falafel, which serves traditional Arab street food. Get the shawarma and falafel platters or sandwiches after a swim (meal for family of four AED150/`2,700). From The Beach take a short ride on the Dubai Tram (tickets from AED4/`75, www.alsufouhtram.com) to Marina Walk, while taking in the sights of the modern Dubai Marina district. The area was a desert less than a decade ago, but is now replete with high-rises. Marina Walk is a bustling waterfront promenade lined with cafés and restaurants overlooking the marina where ogle-worthy yachts are moored. There are plenty of reasonably priced options for lunch, from pizzas to Indian cuisine. To eat local try Reem al Bawadi, an award-winning and reasonably priced chain of restaurants offering hearty Middle Eastern cuisine in a rustic setting (www.reemalbawadi.com; meal for four from AED200/`3,620). Boat tours operate from Marina Walk. These range from dhow cruises to the government-run Dubai Ferry. Try The Yellow Boats’ 90-minute guided tour, which combines the thrills of

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

speedboat racing through the waters with guided sightseeing along the marina aboard comfortable inﬂatable boats. The route goes up to Palm Jumeirah and the Burj al Arab, and back, offering incomparable photoops along the way. Friendly guides pepper their commentary with humour and local insights, making it a fun ride that’s safe for children too ( from AED280/`5,062 per person, www. theyellowboats.com). You could also opt for the RTA-run Dubai Ferry, which, in this instance is more of a touristy catamaran than a functional ferry, complete with airconditioning, and an on-board snack bar. A trip from Dubai Marina to the Atlantis allows views of the coastline without breaking the bank (tickets from AED50/`905; www.dubai-ferry.com). If the boat tour whets your appetite for aquatic thrills, visit a water park. Dubai has a few, and they’re all good. Wild Wadi Waterpark has Arabian adventure-themed rides in a luxury setting (www.jumeirah.com/en/hotelsresorts/dubai/wild-wadi; open 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Nov-Feb and 10 a.m-7 p.m. Mar-Oct; entry adults AED275/`4,972, children AED230/`4,158). More daring, with plenty of thrills-a-minute is Aquaventure Waterpark in Atlantis

MARK HORN/PHOTOGRAPHER’S CHOICE/GETTY IMAGES

The beach at Jumeirah Beach Residence is a popular place to relax on the weekend, enjoying ocean vistas while ﬂanked by Dubai’s high-rises.

The Palm (www.atlantisthepalm.com/ marine-water-park/aquaventurewaterpark; open 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.; entry adults AED260/`4,700, children AED215/`3,887). End the day with a relaxed evening at nearby Souk Madinat Jumeirah. Designed according to traditional Arabian architectural styles, this picturesque complex with winding waterways transports visitors back to a historic bazaar. Magniﬁcent Burj al Arab views from here are guaranteed Instagram hits. Wind down with wine at The Agency, a chic wine bar, or grab dinner at one of many international restaurants—from Italian or southern American BBQ, it’s all here. I recommend Tortuga at the Jumeirah Mina A’Salam hotel for its authentic, homestyle Mexican food and live band (www.jumeirah.com; meal for four AED500/`9,040). A more affordable option with a prime waterfront location is Toscana, an Italian trattoria, serving good pizzas and pastas (www.jumeirah. com; meal for four AED200/3,620).

Set the afternoon aside for a desert safari—a must-do for visitors to the Emirate. Yes, it may be a kitschy, formulaic experience, but it’s also fun and a handy way to explore the desert. Guests are picked up from their hotel and driven into the desert for a spot of dune bashing followed by an evening at a Bedouin-inspired safari camp with traditional Arabian majlis ﬂoor seating. Travellers can try henna painting, camel rides, sandboarding, and get the obligatory tourist photo dressed in Arab attire. A barbecue dinner (alcoholic beverages can be purchased at the bar)

with belly dancing for entertainment, completes the evening. Innumerable tour operators offer this experience, but not all desert safaris are equal. Lama Tours efficiently delivers a good experience (www.lamadubai.com; from AED130/`2,350, children up to 11 AED110/`2,000). For a luxe option, try Arabian Adventures (www.arabianadventures.com; adults AED375/`6,780, children AED300/`5,424 per head for sundowner dune dinner safari). They also offer overnight safaris for those with the time and inclination for a night under the stars.

Uncover a whole new side to Dubai at Al Quoz, an industrial area that has undergone a makeover and turned into a trendy arts enclave. Hundreds of galleries, concept boutiques, and cafés in former warehouses make this the undisputable arts and culture hub of the city. Alserkal Avenue, a gated complex of galleries and studios, is a great place to start (www.alserkalavenue.ae). End with artisanal coffee and fresh, wholesome food at nearby Tom & Serg, a hip home-grown café in an oversized warehouse (www.tomandserg.com; meal for four AED250/`4,520). Nearby, The Limetree Café and Kitchen is something of a Dubai institution, and their Al Quoz branch is also a good option for lunch. They do wholesome café-style grub such as “toasties,” and their carrot cake is legendary (www. thelimetreecafe.com; meal for four AED150/2,712). A family-friendly way to spend the morning is at Ski Dubai at Mall of the Emirates (20 minutes from Al Quoz). Kids have their fun snowboarding or getting a ski lesson, while adults enjoy retail therapy (www.theplaymania. com/skidubai; ski lessons begin at AED185/`3,345).

IAIN MASTERTON/INCAMERASTOCK/PASSAGE/CORBIS/IMAGELIBRARY (ART GALLERY), RICHARD NEBESKY/LONELY PLANET IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES (DESERT)

DAY 3

Dubai’s burgeoning local art movement has found a home among the warehouses of the industrial Al Quoz area (top); Kitschy and formulaic though they may seem, desert safaris (bottom) are an essential element on most Dubai itineraries.

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

Smart Traveller |

C HEC KI N G I N

Beachside bungalows at Cocoperle Lodge, in French Polynesia, open the door to local culture.

The Guesthouse Option MALDIVES TME Guesthouses

RIVIERA MAYA, MEXICO Hotel La Semilla

FRENCH POLYNESIA Cocoperle Lodge

Famed for fabulous beaches and glamorous resorts that cater to the likes of English royalty, this Indian Ocean nation recently legalized villagebased lodging, such as this 17-room inn with its simple rooms and openair dining. Spend the day watching whale sharks or swimming with manta rays, then relax on a jolie (the ubiquitous Maldivian version of a park bench) to socialize with the locals at sunset.

In the midst of the Riviera Maya’s busy tourist scene, this nine-room inn feels like a private hacienda. The sandy Caribbean beach is just two blocks away. Owners Alexis Schärer and Angie Rodriguez hope guests will feel at home—if only home came with warm Mexican sunshine, a garden hammock swinging under copal trees, an outdoor terrace with panoramic ocean and jungle views, and chocolates on your pillow.

Honeymooners head to French Polynesia’s all-inclusive resorts, but a growing number of pensions or boarding houses provide traditional lodgings and a chance to learn about local life. Cocoperle and 19 other pensions have even partnered with Air Tahiti Nui to offer packages that include airfare. Go ﬁshing, visit a pearl farm, and then retire to one of Cocoperle’s four bungalows, fragrant with ﬂowers.

Dhigurah Island, South Ari Atoll; www.tme.

mv; from $50/`3,400, including breakfast.

Playa del Carmen; www.hotellasemilla.com;

Ahe Atoll, Tuamotu Islands; www.

doubles from $160/`10,885, including

cocoperlelodge.com; from XPF14,000/`8,700

breakfast.

per person per night, including meals.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

CHRIS CLAVERIE/COCOPERLE LODGE

GO SMALL AT THREE HOTSPOTS MORE FAMOUS FOR BIG RESORTS | BY DIANE SELKIRK

IN FOCUS 56

WORLD Seven memorable journeys, over seven continents, spanning seven decades

WORLD A chance photograph becomes a creative idea that takes us around the globe

IPS 7 TR ENTS N I T N 7 CO DES A C E 7 D

HOW •

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Little Kids

Tweens & Teens

Twenties

Thirties

Forties

Fifties

Sixties+

North America

Asia

Europe

Australia

South America

Africa

Antarctica

Road-trip the Southwest.

Spot orangutans in Borneo.

Head east for buzzing cities.

Toast a great wine region.

Hike volcanoes in Chile.

Pick the right safari for you.

Go on a bucketlist cruise.

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

LA TIGRE (ILLUSTRATIONS)

•

In Focus | JOURN EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E

NORTH AMERICA

FOR LITTLE KIDS

SCENES FROM A SOUTHWEST ROAD TRIP WITH A FIVE-YEAR-OLD INSTAGRAM ROCK STAR

Dream catchers remind visitors that Utahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Monument Valley is on Navajo land.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Q NORTH AME RICA

7 TRIPS • 7 CONTINENTS • 7 DECADES

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

In Focus | JOU R N EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E BY AARON HUEY PHOTOGRAPHS BY AARON AND HAWKEYE HUEY

ong ago, my wife Kristin and I came up with some simple rules for road trips: Avoid interstates whenever possible, no chain restaurants, try new roads, and stop driving before dark (to find a good place to park the van, our home on the road). Not exactly revolutionary concepts, but they have defined how we have travelled the American West, an area we are drawn to especially now, for family trips with our five-year-old son, Hawkeye. When I met Kristin, 13 years ago in Santa Fe, New Mexico, we fell in love fast. Within three days we set out on our first road trip, along back roads in New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah, tracing our route with an orange marker on a fold-out map of the U.S., which I kept in the glove box of my Volkswagen van. It would be the start of a series of trips that forged our sense of family. When Hawkeye was born, we continued the tradition, introducing him to our favourite deserts and parks—and life on the road. The wide-open spaces and changing landscapes of the American West are perfect for young children, who thrive on novelty and adventure: climbing (and falling from) sandstone formations, eating Navajo tacos at an Indian market, hiking under stars far from the light pollution of cities, watching a rodeo in a small town, sleeping in tents. In his first years Hawkeye hiked Joshua Tree National Park (on our backs) in southern California and saw the colourfully painted slopes of “Salvation Mountain,” by the Salton Sea. Once he began walking, I took him on solo trips to places his mother and I had marked on our old map, places I’d especially loved, from the well-trodden lookouts in Arizona’s Grand Canyon and Monument Valley on the Arizona-Utah border, to such lesser-known spots as Utah’s Newspaper Rock and Shiprock, New Mexico. I wanted to instil in him a love for adventure, scraped-up knees, and the smell of rain on sagebrush. In his fourth year I bought him a camera like the ones I had in my youth, where real photos pop out and develop in your hand—physical reminders of that moment in time, not images swiped on a screen. The pictures he took, and others he has shot since, are great treasures to me. But most important are our family adventures along the roads that wind among America’s natural cathedrals—places that were sacred to the native peoples— and the stories and lessons we collect along the way. Hawkeye will get dirt in his mouth and cactus spines in his shoes. And that’s the way it should be in the land of “thunder beings,” the great billowing storms that sweep the desert clean with their rains and winds—then paint their rainbows across the horizon. See three of our favourite itineraries in the Southwest, and our suggestions and tips for each, on page 62

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Q NO RTH AME RICA

Through a Child’s Eyes Aaron Huey, a National Geographic photographer based in Seattle, U.S.A, opened an Instagram account for his son, Hawkeye, to share a kid’s take on American travels. As of press time, @HawkeyeHuey has 2,01,000 followers. Here Hawkeye captions some of his instant snaps from a recent Southwest road trip.

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

In Focus | JOURN EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E

Saturday night is open mic at the Range in Slab City, in the California desert.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Q NORTH AME RICA

“I WANTED TO INSTIL IN MY SON A LOVE FOR ADVENTURE, SCRAPED-UP KNEES, AND THE SMELL OF RAIN ON SAGEBRUSH.”

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

In Focus | JOURN EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E

LOOPED IN: 3 SOUTHWEST AMERICAN ROAD TRIPS LOOP 2

LOOP 3

California Curiosities

Canyons Galore

4-6 DAYS

Start and end in Las Vegas. The ﬁrst stop on this road trip is the engineering marvel that is Hoover Dam on the ArizonaNevada border (www.usbr.gov/ lc/hooverdam; daily 9 a.m.5 p.m., last dam tour departs at 3:30 p.m; adults $30/`2,000; children under 8 not allowed). Then crank up the tunes and drive old Route 66, stopping at the Hackberry General Store in Arizona for its collection of Route 66 memorabilia (www. hackberrygeneralstore.com). Onward to the Grand Canyon! Don’t just do the view spots; go out and hike at least a portion of the trails. At the North Rim, spend the night in a cabin at the historic Grand Canyon Lodge (www.grandcanyonforever.com; doubles from $130/`8,650). In Utah’s Zion National Park, hike the Narrows, with its towering canyon walls (www.nps.gov/zion; $30/`2,000). After these natural wonders, head west for a manmade marvel, Michael Heizer’s “Double Negative” earthwork art, in the town of Moapa Valley.

7-10 DAYS

ngr

Many Farms

Kingman

Los Twentynine JOSHUA Angeles Palms TREE N.P.

Grand Canyon Visitor Center (South Rim) Hackberry General Store

Mountainair Pie Town Karl G. Jansky Very Large Array

Phoenix

Slab City Salvation Mountain

Albuquerque

Truth or Consequences 8

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PACIFIC OCEAN Loop 1 Loop 2 Loop 3

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Salton Salt on Se Sea Sea a

Borrego Springs

NAVA JO NATION

Carlsbad

Taos

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e d e C r i s t o M t s.

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Grand Canyon Lodge (North Rim) Monument Valley Page

Las Vegas CALIFORNIA

C OLOR AD O

NEVADA Moapa Valley

Start and end in Santa Fe. Breakfast burritos and other roadside eats highlight this superloop exploring back roads of the Land of Enchantment. From Santa Fe head north through the Sangre de Cristo Mountains to the equally artistic town of Taos. Pie Town, on the Continental Divide, really does have the best pie, from apple to coconut cream. Nearby, listen in on the universe at the Very Large Array radio telescope facility (public.nrao.edu/ tours/visitvla; daily 8.30 a.m. until sunset; adults $6/`400, visitors under 17 free; free guided tours on the ﬁrst Saturday of the month at 11 a.m., 1 p.m., and 3 p.m.). Still dreaming of the stars? Head south to the site of Spaceport America, near the town, Truth or Consequences (spaceportamerica.com; adults $44.99/`2,980, visitors under 18 $29.99/`1,985; entry includes tour). Loop back to Santa Fe through White Sands National Monument, for the experience of dune sledding (www. nps.gov/whsa; daily 7 a.m.-8 p.m.; $5/`330, visitors under 15 free).

UTAH

ZION NATIONAL PARK St. George

UNITED STATES

7-14 DAYS

ran de

Start and end in Los Angeles. Outsider art and oddballs keep this road trip through desert landscapes offbeat. Head south on Interstate 5, the glittering Paciﬁc Ocean on your right. At the city of Carlsbad (home to Legoland), turn inland to Borrego Springs and the Anza-Borrego Desert (perfect for stargazing!). Farther east gets you to the surreal Salton Sea, with its remnants of a planned vacation town, abandoned when the lake turned highly saline. Nearby, climb to the top of the heartfelt work of art “Salvation Mountain,” then meet the eccentric characters of the alternative living community at Slab City. Hike through the desert trails of Joshua Tree National Park in the south, where the eponymous trees look like something out of Dr. Seuss’s The Lorax (www. nps.gov/jotr; park entry $20/`1,325).

AREA ENLARGED

New Mexico Back Roads

Rio G

LOOP 1

T EX AS

UNITED STATES MEXICO Gulf of California

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

80 mi 80 km

Hawkeye and Aaron Huey (top left) ﬁnd their happy place in Joshua Tree National Park, in California; In New Mexico, a painted burro (top right) stands atop general store Highway 54 Emporium in Carrizozo; White Sands National Monument (bottom) provides design-forward picnic tables.

NG MAPS, WORLD DATABASE ON PROTECTED AREAS (MAP)

Q NORTH AME RICA

In Focus | JOURN EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E

ASIA

FO R T W E E N S AND TEENS

DISPATCHES FROM THE LAMAN FAMILYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S WILD SUMMER VACATIONS IN BORNEO

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Q AS IA

7 TRIPS • 7 CONTINENTS • 7 DECADES

Jessica and Russell Laman help their parents track orangutans in Borneo.

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

In Focus | JOURN EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E BY CHERYL KNOTT AND JESSICA & RUSSELL LAMAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY TIM LAMAN

Photographer Tim Laman, his wife, researcher Cheryl Knott, and their kids get a break from bushwhacking through the Borneo rainforest when the orangutan they are following stops to eat.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

What I Did on My Summer Vacation Jessica, 12 BANG! Crunch! A heavy fruit falls from the high canopy and lands on the tin roof of our hut, waking me. I sit up, engulfed in the ruckus of the Borneo rainforest. I pull on my boots and set off along the trail toward the main camp. Our rustic jungle hut consists of a single room with three wooden walls and one half wall, elevated above the rainforest floor and sheltered by a tin roof. Since the age of five I have travelled to my mom’s remote orangutan research station in Gunung Palung as part of my summer vacation. Seven years later it only amazes me more. I take a big gulp of the fresh air. The rainforest abounds with life. Even if I may not be able to see all those tiny whirring insects or songbirds hidden high in the canopy, that sense of life flows through me, filling me with energy.

Russell, 15 My sister and I join my dad and other members of the research team in tracking a big male orangutan who is swinging through the rainforest canopy, spectacular-looking with his giant cheek pads. We follow him on his journey to ﬁnd food, spending a few minutes in one tree before moving on to the next. Of all the animals and plants in the Bornean rainforest, the orangutan is the ultimate ﬁnd. Its effortless motion through the treetops, paired with its human-like interactions, makes it an extraordinary sight. Although orangutans do not usually travel in groups, each moment they do interact is a touching reminder of how similar they are to us. We watch him until he settles down for the night. Then we don our headlamps and get out our compasses and maps. Predictably, Dad says, “Okay, kids, you lead us back to camp.” And we do just that.

Sighting a baby orangutan is a thrill even for experienced researchers such as Cheryl Knott. Young orangutans depend on their mom for some six years, learning how to survive in the rainforest. Visit savegporangutans. org for more info.

TREVOR FROST (LAMAN FAMILY)

“M

y friends are probably at home playing video games, and I’m pulling a canoe upriver in Borneo!” shouted our son, Russell, eight years old at the time, as we made our way to my research station deep in the rainforests of Indonesia’s Gunung Palung National Park, one of the last strongholds of the endangered Bornean orangutan. The real world always beats electronics. That’s the essence of why my husband, Tim Laman, and I have brought Russell and our daughter, Jessica, to this isolated rainforest camp annually, as I check in on my long-term project studying wild orangutans, and Tim takes photographs for National Geographic Magazine. Travelling with children in tow may seem like a challenge, but with a bit of planning it’s doable, even to the most obscure places. If you start when they’re babies, they (and you) will soon be experts. Involve your kids in planning the trip so they’ll feel invested in it. And always carry a big book to relieve the tedium of inevitable travel delays. Last year I read Tolkein’s Lord of the Rings out loud to the whole family, which ended up being a memorable shared experience. We’ve been lucky enough to have these opportunities to travel to wild places with our children, but the thrill of nature can be as close as your own backyard. Whether kayaking on your local pond or camping in a rainforest in Southeast Asia, there’s nothing that surpasses seeing nature again for the ﬁrst time in the eyes of your child.

Q AS IA

ASIA

Borneo includes regions of Malaysia, Indonesia, and Brunei. The Malaysian side has ecotourism options and national parks that are more developed. Borneo Adventure can organize itineraries (borneoadventure.com; 8-day, 7-night Malaysian Borneo tour MYR4040/`68,425 per person). KINABATANGAN WILDLIFE

DANUM VALLEY

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Jakarta AUSTRALIA

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A 260-square-kilometre protected ï¬&#x201A;oodplain is home to proboscis monkeys, and pygmy elephants. Check in at Sukau Rainforest Lodge, one of the National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World (www.sukau.com; 3-day, 2-night packages from MYR1,495/`25,600 per person on a doubles package).

In this 438-square-kilometre lowland forest, stay at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge. Thirty chalets with outdoor tubs offer prime forest views. Borneo Nature Tours has excellent guides (borneonaturetours.com; 3-day, 2-night from MYR3,158/ `54,150, per person on a doubles package).

No orangutans here, but many other species roam this UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its limestone pinnacles and network of caves, including the largest known cave chamber in the world (mulupark.com; entry adults MYR30/`515; visitors between 7-18 years MYR10/`170, children below 6 free).

KINABATANGAN WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

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NG MAPS (MAP)

3 Picks for Borneo Wildlife Watching

GUNUNG PALUNG NATIONAL PARK 200 mi 200 km

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

In Focus | JOURN EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E

EUROPE

I N YO U R T W E N T I ES

A 7-DAY ITINERARY TRACKS THE LOCALS IN BUDAPEST, ZAGREB, AND SARAJEVO

Budapest’s old-world Széchenyi Baths innovates with late-night “spa parties.”

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Q EU RO P E

7 TRIPS • 7 CONTINENTS • 7 DECADES

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

In Focus | JOU R N EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E BY NINA STROCHLIC PHOTOGRAPHS BY AKOS STILLER

enture from the well-worn Prague and Vienna circuit to explore lands where prices are cheaper and ﬂea markets plentiful. This insiderinspired European itinerary starts in Budapest to soak alongside locals at thermal baths, then south to Zagreb, with its artisans and eccentric Museum of Broken Relationships, and ﬁnally to Sarajevo, where the bullet-scarred Olympic bobsleigh track is a sobering reminder of the 1990s war. Throughout, an enterprising new generation gives visitors to the Old World a fresh welcome.

BUDAPEST, HUNGARY DAY 1 Hopping aboard the 155 kilometres of tram lines in

Budapest is a cheap way to orient yourself in the Hungarian capital. Trams 47 and 49 stop in front of the Great Market Hall. “Don’t forget to check out the ﬁshmongers and colourful pickle stalls in the basement,” says Carolyn Bánfalvi, founder of food and wine tour company, Taste Hungary. Take Tram 2 along the Danube River to the spire-bristling Hungarian Parliament. Nearby is Hold Street Market, where perfectly fried schnitzel served at Buja Disznók draws foodies. Walk across stately Chain Bridge to the Buda side of the river to check out the imposing Buda Castle complex (budacastlebudapest.com; entry to castle free; adults €30/`2,260, children between 3-12, €15/`1,128 for a 2.5-hour guided tour). Back on the Pest side, some of the best traditional restaurants can be found in the old Jewish Quarter. The matzo ball soup at family-run Rosenstein has a cult following (rosenstein.hu; matzo ball soup HUF1,200/`290). This revitalized neighbourhood also hosts Budapest’s famed “ruin bars.” In the early 2000s, SLOVAKIA

Budapest

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

DAY 4 “Even if you don’t have a goal, a long walk through the

streets of Zagreb always brings discoveries,” says Iva Silla, the founder of Secret Zagreb, a tour company and city blog. Get your bearings in the heart of the diminutive Croatian capital at Ban JelaĀiþ Square, and wander down artisan-ﬁlled Ilica Street and its quirky alleyways. Nearby, a courtyard hides the Lapo Lapo studio, created by and for local street artists. Then you can climb a few blocks to the Museum of Broken Relationships, a bizarre but poignant collection of keepsakes from failed love affairs, like a noseless garden dwarf that was thrown at a husband’s new car (brokenships.com; entry KN30/`300). Stari Fijaker serves up comfort food such as veal ragout and black pudding (www.stariﬁjaker.hr). Vinyl bar has a theme for every evening, from book exchanges to live music (www.vinylzagreb.com).

NG MAPS (MAP)

AUSTRIA

impromptu nightlife venues began popping up in abandoned buildings. The pioneering Szimpla Kert, a sprawling maze of oddities and bars, is the most popular (en.szimpla.hu). For a calmer night, drop in on newcomer Mazel Tov (mazeltov.hu/en). Stay: At Brody House, each guest room displays an ever evolving gallery by a single artist (brodyhouse.com; doubles from €70/`5,290). DAY 2 With its recreated prison cells and other interactive exhibits, the House of Terror at Andrássy út 60 gives a feel for life in Hungary during its communist regime (www.terrorhaza. hu; entry HUF2,000/`480). Then, after a 15-minute-walk to Klauzál tér 9, sit down at Kádár Étkezde, a lunch-only holdout from the 1950s still heaping plates with Hungarian staples at reasonable prices. A 20-minute bus ride out of town leads to Memento Park, ﬁnal resting place of statues of Lenin, Stalin, and other communist icons (www.mementopark.hu; entry HUF1,500/`360). A 30-minute drive north, at apartment-restaurant Zoltán 18, a Hungarian-Canadian and Russian couple serve elaborate six-course meals, with starters such as tandoori octopus and egg-yolk ravioli, in a minimalist dining room (Zoltán utca 18; +36-20-4306383). A ten-minute drive west is Bambi Eszpresszó, an intellectual hangout in the 1960s where regulars now gather for backgammon. It is the ideal spot for a local Dreher Pilsener (II kerület, Frankel Leó utca 2-4; +36-1-2123171). DAY 3 Budapest has no shortage of coffee houses in which to nurse cups of espresso and sample creamy tortes. On the grand end of the spectrum, the revived Centrál “was once one of the prime salons for Hungary’s famed artists and literary stars, before shutting down during communism,” says Bánfalvi (www. centralkavehaz.hu; coffee from HUF550/`130). Find further relaxation in the city’s other favourite pastime: bathing. Ottoman-era Veli Bej is the oldest hammam in the city (Árpád fejedelem útja 7, district II; entry from HUF2,240/`540). At night, it’s time to dial up the energy at Corvinteto, a dance party on the top ﬂoor of a communist-era department store (www.corvinclub.hu).

Q EU RO P E

Sarajevo’s Latin Bridge (top) is the site of the 1914 assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, which sparked WWI; Zagreb’s Art Pavilion provides the striking backdrop for a seasonal ice rink (bottom right); Bullets have become souvenirs at shops in Sarajevo’s Baš aršija quarter (bottom left).

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

In Focus | JOURN EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E

Stay: At 4 City Windows B&B, rooms reﬂect aspects of Zagreb culture, including a Cartoon Room (www.4citywindows. com; doubles from €70/`5,320). DAY 5 Scour the best treasures at Zagreb’s ﬂea markets. Dolac market “is one of the most colourful sights in Zagreb,” says Silla. British Square on the weekends “has trapped the spirit of the old days.” Re-energize with a plate of štrukli, a dish of cheese and dough dumpling topped with clotted cream, at La Štruk (Skalinska 5; +385-1-4837701). Then head to the forested peaks of neighbouring Mount Medvednica, accessible by tram. “We call the mountain the lungs of the city,” says Silla. “It is a perfect getaway.”

SARAJEVO, BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA

Eastern Europe’s Bright Lights BELGRADE, SERBIA

You haven’t seen the sun rise until you watch it lift over the Danube from one of the all-night ﬂoating barge clubs in Belgrade. Restaurants such as the sprawling Supermarket and mojitoslinging Smokvica (“little ﬁg”) cater to a new nightlife-addicted generation (supermarket.rs, meal for two from HUF3,000/`720; smokvica.rs, meal for two from HUF5,550/`1,335).

DAY 6 Two decades have passed since an almost four-

year siege pummelled Sarajevo. You can still see bullet holes on buildings, but the citizens haven’t lost their zest for life. A tram or taxi will take you past the Latin Bridge—where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was shot, setting World War I into motion—to the newly remodelled History Museum, which focuses on 20th-century Sarajevo (www.muzej.ba; BAM5/`194). Nearby, the National Museum holds Bosnia’s archaeologic and artistic treasures (www.zemaljskimuzej.ba; adults BAM6/`230, children aged 6-13 BAM3/`115; children under 5 free). Next door, Tito Cafe is filled with amusingly reappropriated decor, but head to the old Ottoman quarter BašĀaršija for souvenirs. “The city centre is still visited by the locals, and the prices are local prices,” says Adnan Zuka, a guide at tour company Sarajevo Insider. Then fill up on Bosnia’s most famous dish, a grilled minced meat sandwich called þevapi, at ýevabdžinica Željo (Kundurdžiluk 19; +387-33-447000). “You always start with a coffee here,” says Zuka, of Bosnian nightlife. Try the ÿajdçinica Dçirlo Tea House for a warm welcome and caffeine, then move on to cocktails at Cafe Barometar or head to party spot Cinemas Sloga (teahousesarajevo.info; Cafe Barometar, Branilaca Sarajeva 23, +387-61-941139; Cinemas Sloga, www.cinemas.ba). Stay: Halvat Hotel has made-to-order breakfast feasts and friendly staff who provide city tips (www.halvat.com.ba; doubles from €68/`5,115). DAY 7 Numerous tour companies offer The Sarajevo Siege Tour in the city. It takes visitors on an intimate trip to the mountainous front line. Walk on the 1984 Olympic bobsleigh track, left littered with artillery shells. On the way back, stop at the Tunnel Museum to learn about the secret passageway Sarajevans dug to transport supplies (tunelspasa.ba; entry BAM10/`385). A defiant wartime spirit also lives on in the Sarajevo War Theatre, founded during the siege (www.sartr.ba). The performances may be largely in Bosnian, but the entertainment remains, so catch a show anyway. Then decamp to nearby Zlatna Ribica, a curio cabinet of a bar that embraces all comers (Kaptol 5; +387-33-836348; drinks from BAM5/`195).

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA

A storybook city set on a photogenic river, Ljubljana is a breath of fresh air. Literally: This year it snagged the Green Capital of Europe title. Bring a book to trade in the library of brickwalled Tozd bar, then hang out as the riverbank turns into an open-air party at sunset (www.tozd.eu). TIRANA, ALBANIA

With a half-century of dictatorimposed isolation in its rearview mirror, Tirana has adapted aspects of its socialist past with artistic ﬂourish: Boxy downtown buildings now wear coats of rainbow paint. Elsewhere, patrons of outdoor cafés such as Funky Moustache spill onto the sidewalks (Rruga Mustafa Matohiti; +355-69-9701043). TIP: Due to some outdated infrastructure and the current refugee crisis, train travel is not always reliable in eastern Europe. Verify schedules and routes when possible, but be ﬂexible.

Szimpla Kert launched Budapest’s nightlife trend of “ruin bars”—eclectically decorated pubs in dilapidated buildings.

Q EU RO P E

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

In Focus | JOURN EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E

AUSTRALIA

I N YO U R T H I RT I ES

YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;VE DONE URBAN IN EUROPE. READY FOR WAVES, WINERIES, AND WALLABIES?

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Q AUSTRALIA

MARK BOSKELL/ELEMENTS MARGARET RIVER (BEACH)

7 TRIPS • 7 CONTINENTS • 7 DECADES

Evening’s lull belies the daily wave action at Surfer’s Point, a popular destination for big Paciﬁc rollers.

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

In Focus | JOURN EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E BY ROFF SMITH

continent unto itself, brash, sun-splashed Australia serves up the perfect mix of adventure and urbanity for 30-somethings who spent the twilight of their 20s Instagramming Italy’s piazze and tweeting from Trafalgar Square. The land down under fuses carefree youthfulness with a jazzy sophistication, raw nature with edgy architecture—and not just in the expected places, such as relentlessly cosmopolitan Sydney or along the Great Barrier Reef. Head to Oz’s southwest corner, and you’ll discover the Margaret River Valley, a cloistered world of wild beaches, jewelled caves, towering eucalyptus forests, and world-class vineyards that connoisseurs compare favourably to Napa and Bordeaux. Just to its north sits Perth, the sunny capital of the surrounding state of Western Australia. “For a long time the only folks who came down this way were surfers and hippies,” says Australian food and wine writer, Max Veenhuyzen. Better roads in the 1980s improved the area’s accessibility, turning the town named Margaret River and its surrounding countryside into one of Perth’s toniest weekend getaways. “And yet this area still feels very much like rural Australia,” Veenhuyzen adds. Therein lies its magic. Margaret River, as the bigger region calls itself, continues to draw board-loving bohemians as it has since the late 1960s—even if some of those surfers now sport silver hair and bring their grandchildren. “Friday afternoons, I’d pester some of the older guys for a lift to the beaches,” says Bill Gibson, who started coming here as a teenager to ride the big, glassy Indian Ocean rollers that break along the coast. “If I couldn’t score a ride, I’d get my Mum

OCEAN

To Perth

Geographe Bay

Cape Naturaliste

Dunsborough

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Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Pemberton

3 Emerging Aussie Wine Regions GREAT SOUTHERN

Drive east from Margaret River Valley to reach the Great Southern wine region, really a web of ﬁve subregions that take advantage of the area’s soil diversity to produce everything from Chardonnays to Cabernets. Rieslings and Syrahs receive special acclaim, from wineries like Howard Park and Harewood Estate. Also in the area: Western Australia’s oldest European settlement, Albany, and the dramatic granite outcrops of Porongurup National Park. (Howard Park, www. burchfamilywines.com.au; Harewood Estate, www.harewoodestate.com.au; Porongurup National Park, parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au). GIPPSLAND

A region of family vintners two hours east of Melbourne, Gippsland has earned a place in Australian wine lore with its Pinot Noirs. Accolades have gone to those crafted at Bass Phillip and Cannibal Creek wineries; the latter also wins awards for its Chardonnays. Wine pairs with pastas and other delectables at Narkoojee and Toms Cap vineyards, popular for their restaurants. Area attractions include Baw Baw National Park, for hiking and skiing, and the old gold-mining town of Walhalla. (Bass Phillip, www.bassphillip.com; Cannibal Creek, www.cannibalcreek.com.au; Narkoojee, narkoojee.com; Toms Cap, www. tomscap.com.au; Baw Baw National Park, parkweb.vic.gov.au). TASMANIA

Australia’s biggest island has been turning out ﬂavourful, aromatic wines with grapes that thrive in cooler climates. Its densest concentrations of vineyards lie in the northern Tamar Valley and the East Coast region. Among the top varietals are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, both recently adapted to make sparkling wines. Activities to check out: biking the Tamar Valley Wine Route (tamarvalleywineroute.com.au) and hiking in coastal Freycinet National Park (www.parks.tas.gov.au). Chef Paul Iskov forages for wild native plants (top left); hand-picked grapes await collection (top centre); local truffles grab the attention of a truffle-hunting dog (top right); morning bicyclists roll past Margaret River Valley vineyards (bottom).

MICHELLE TROOP (FORAGER), ANDREW WATSON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (GRAPES), RUSSELL ORD/ELEMENTS MARGARET RIVER (DOG & BIKERS), FACING PAGE: NG MAPS, WORLD DATABASE ON PROTECTED AREAS (MAP)

Q AUSTRALIA

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

In Focus | JOURN EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E

to drop me and my board in Fremantle, then I’d stick out my thumb. The drive was a classic Aussie adventure: four hours on a road that just got narrower and narrower and more crowded with trees. The cars were old bombs on wheels; we picked up great mechanical skills during that era. And the waves along the south coast never disappointed.” Gibson up and moved to Margaret River as soon as he finished school, snagging jobs on local farms, stints at the sawmill, or gigs at area vineyards, which were just starting to be planted. Those fledgling vines he and his mates tended have flourished, transforming this into one of the world’s premier wine regions—though at 52 square kilometres it’s relatively small, and generates just four per cent of Australia’s wine. Yet its 200-plus wineries punch well above their weight, accounting for 25 per cent of the nation’s premium wine market. The reason is simple. “We have a nearly perfect maritime Mediterranean climate,” says Dianne Laurance, owner and chief winemaker at Laurance Wines, “and gravelly loamy soils that are ideal for producing premium grapes and premium wines. I’ve always thought Napa produces wines similar to Margaret River; we’re both justly famous for our Chardonnays and Cabernets. We also have a lot in common with Bordeaux.” The wineries have helped the low-slung town of Margaret River quadruple in size, chock-a-block with breezy eateries, art galleries, and wine cellars. And the rich terroir that fosters Margaret River’s premium grapes turns out a cornucopia of other foodstuffs, from cheeses and honeys to olive oils, fruits, and nuts. It also delivers those rarest and costliest of delicacies, truffles, which are celebrated at the Truffle Kerfuffle, an annual event held near the town of Manjimup, about 150 kilometres east of Margaret River. Among the festival’s highlights: trufflecooking classes by world-class chefs and truffle-hunting demonstrations by truffle-sniffing dogs. “The pristine environment here in the southern forests, with its fertile soils and plentiful rainfall, apparently makes it ideal for truffles,” says local grower David Pottinger, who supplies rare black truffles to Michelin-starred restaurants around the world. “As far as we’re aware, we have the most prolific truffière in the world.” Pottinger and other area farmers went into truffle cultivation about 15 years ago, planting oak trees and inoculating them with blackR E A D I T, D O I T truffle spores. “Personally, I didn’t expect much,” Explore Australia’s he says. “We joked about our expensive outsize landscapes, plantation of oak trees. It was a very from the wilds of Tasmania to the big gamble.” Blue Mountains, the Why this particular pocket of west outback to the Great Barrier Reef, with Australia proves so conducive to growNational Geographic ing the tasty fungus remains a mystery. Expeditions and Journeys. To learn “Conventional wisdom says we’re more, visit www. too hot, too close to the sea, and not nationalgeographicexelevated enough to produce truffles,” says peditions.com.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Q AUSTRALIA

Pottinger. “But this is a very special place. Just how special was brought home to me recently when a French chef—one of France’s leading truffle distributors—visited our operation. His parting words to me were: Please plant more trees. What you have here is unique.”

THOSE WORDS APPLY TO OTHER features in the Margaret River Valley, starting with Bill Gibson’s cherished surf. This past June, a 35-year-old father of two, Justin Holland, mastered what is believed to be the biggest wave ever ridden in Australia, a 60-foot-high monster at a surf break in LeeuwinNaturaliste National Park nicknamed Cow Bombie. Not that surfing along this coastline requires expert skills. “We have lots of hidden bays and coves where inexperienced surfers can get up to speed,” says Gibson. Also in its own class: the Leeuwin-Naturaliste coast (named for the Dutch ship Leeuwin and French ship Naturaliste, which first explored the area), honeycombed with more than 150 caves, such as Mammoth Cave, where fossils of giant marsupials that once roamed Australia have been found; Ngilgi Cave, with an exquisite set of stalagmites, stalactites, and stone drapes; and one of Australia’s largest show caves, Jewel, known for its flowstone pipe-organ and waterfall formations. Above ground—well above it—rise forests of giant karris, eucalyptus trees that grow nowhere else but this corner of Australia and, at heights up to 300 feet, rank among Earth’s tallest hardwoods. Some can be climbed, on ladders of metal rungs that spiral up the trunk. The loftiest is the Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree, with a 246-foot-high viewing platform reached by scaling 165 rungs. And what is a trip to Australia without seeing kangaroos? They’re here too; they occasionally bound around the local golf course. Guests at Yelverton Brook Eco-chalets sleep next to the Yelverton Conservation Sanctuary, home to roos, wallabies, bandicoots (rabbit-size marsupials), and other local fauna. About 27 kilometres south, young joeys, llamas, and more traditional farm animals roam the grounds at the Sunflowers Animal Farm and Farmstay, where optional farm chores come with the rustic quarters. A custom amenity: free buckets of animal feed. The Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree is one of several climbable giant karris, or eucalyptuses.

ROFF SMITH is the author of Cold Beer and Crocodiles, a National Geographic book about his cycling trip through the outback. Based in Australia, he often works with National Geographic Expeditions. JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

RUSSELL ORD/ELEMENTS MARGARET RIVER

MARGARET RIVER CONTINUES TO DRAW BOARD-LOVING BOHEMIANS AS IT HAS SINCE THE LATE 1960s— EVEN IF SOME OF THOSE SURFERS NOW SPORT SILVER HAIR AND BRING THEIR GRANDCHILDREN

In Focus | JOURN EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E

SOUTH AMERICA A MOM GOES ROGUE IN CHILEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LAND OF LAKES AND VOLCANOES

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

IN YOUR FORTIES

Q SOUTH AME RICA

7 TRIPS • 7 CONTINENTS • 7 DECADES

All mist and froth, Puma Waterfall makes for splashy entertainment in Chile’s Huilo Huilo Biological Reserve.

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

In Focus | JOU R N EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E BY JAYNE WISE PHOTOGRAPHS BY PABLO CORRAL VEGA

Pu Puc P uccón u ón ón

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

25 mi 25 km

cylinder, its walls now coated with moss, and emerge into a witches’ brew of mist swirling around Villarrica’s top half. Expanses of black cinder spread out everywhere I look, evidence of this volcano’s explosive might as one of Chile’s most active craters; somewhere far below lie Lake Villarrica and the town of Pucón. Bet my boys aren’t turning up anything like this on their road trip. “WE’VE HAD GUESTS CARRY ON about how this view of Lake Villarrica reminds them of the Italian lakes,” says Rony Pollak that afternoon when she finds me gazing out from a terrace at Hotel Antumalal, the jewel of a lodge her parents created in the 1950s and my home for the next few nights. Villarrica Volcano lurks behind us, letting off steam. Below, bees weave among the violet hydrangeas in the hotel’s gardens. A breeze ruffles a nearby chestnut tree before swooping down to rustle up whitecaps on the lake. To our right, sailboat masts spear the air in Pucón’s harbour. Just as eye-catching is this lodge, a modernist poem in stone and wood suggestive of architect Frank Lloyd Wright. “It couldn’t get any better than this for my parents, who moved here from Prague in the 1930s,” Pollak says, then pauses. “Except for the volcano.” Antumalal wasn’t the Pollaks’ first hotel. Avid skiers, they’d built a lodge on the glacier-blanketed slope of Villarrica Volcano in the 1940s. All was good until 1949, when a mudflow destroyed the lodge. “They’d already bought this land, thankfully at a safer distance from the volcano.” “And Pucón?” I ask. The town crouches at the volcano’s base. “It’s in the danger zone for lava flows.” Within the hour I’m walking to town to see how people live with such an explosive neighbour. Soon I spot signs marking evacuation routes. So it’s almost a shock to find a thriving town, its restaurants—Volcamburguer, Mamas y Tapas—and brandname shops like North Face swarming with adventure-sports types. Any sense of living on borrowed time seems absent. Or is the heightened sense of danger a sort of catnip? When I’d asked a local why he was here, he’d answered, “To be around this,” pointing to the volcanic terrain, “where the planet is most alive.” LOOKING OUT ON LAKE VILLARRICA that evening, I process all I’ve seen in one day—and wonder what lies ahead on the route south to my endpoint, Chile’s largest lake, Llanquihue. First, though, Pollak has more to show me in her beloved backyard. “We’re off to Curarrehue,” she announces the next morning, packing two bag lunches into her car. “It’s a Mapuche town whose inhabitants are reviving the indigenous Mapuche culture.” A half-hour’s drive through mountain valleys dappled with sheep brings us to the tidy roadside settlement. Pollak pulls up in front of Cocina de Elisa—Elisa’s Kitchen. “Entra, entra,” says a smiling Elisa Cea Epuin as she arranges breads hot from the oven. The cottage steeps in the aroma of

NG MAPS, WORLD DATABASE ON PROTECTED AREAS (MAPS)

am a mom … on the lam. I guess I should explain. Recently, my husband and son announced, out of the blue, “We’re going on a road trip, just us men.” So it’s come to this, I thought. The guys go one way, leaving mom on the sideline. Fine. I can play this game. “I’ll hit the road too, then,” I bantered back, “trolling for adventure.” We all chuckled—until my eyes fell on the mess in the kitchen. Suddenly I knew hitting the road was exactly what I’d do. Head out, go rogue, take that walk on the wild side. All I needed was a destination that had, oh, everything: nature, culture, history, good food, and an adventure or two. A land that would ﬁre up my routine-rusted mom synapses. But how to get from here to wherever that is? I needed ideas, so I called my friend Uli. “You know, I’m living in an amazing place. It’s like Tuscany, Bavaria, and Lake Como rolled into one, but with calderas. Look it up: Chile’s volcanoes and lakes region, south of the capital, Santiago, which lies in the centre of the country.” He moved there to follow dreams—and it’s where he now urges me to follow some of mine. So here I am, on fuming Villarrica Volcano, making my way through a very dark lava tube. “We’re in one of Earth’s more interesting formations,” says my guide as he steers me along with his headlamp, “a volcanic cave created when a blazing stream of lava cooled on contact with surface air, hardening the outer layer into a shell.” Drops of condensation ping my head as we snake through the

Q SOUTH AME RICA

A food truck wrapped in head shots of rock stars dishes up tacos and other specialties of chef Gustavo Sandoval Rivas along Lake Llanquihue.

honey and baked berries. Jars of marinating fruits line wood shelves, but I’m drawn to a bowl of what look like supersize almonds. “Que son estos?” I ask. “Piñones de la araucaria,” Elisa says. Nuts of the Araucaria araucana, Chile’s national tree, native only to this part of the country and western Argentina, eight kilometres to the east. The starchy seeds are a staple Mapuche ingredient. Pollak hands me a roll. “It’s made with piñon ﬂour.” The taste perfectly balances sweet and doughy. On our way out I ask Elisa for a souvenir to buy. She opens a jar of purple jam. “Maqui”— Chilean wineberry. I swipe up a spoonful of the spread. “Muy rico in antioxidantes,” she says. Maqui also is muy rico in colour, I learn 20 minutes later, up a dirt road at Textileria Mapuche, where 30something Juanita Becerra continues the Mapuche weaving tradition. Trailed by a meowing kitten (“she thinks I’m her mother”), Becerra ushers Pollak and me into her cottage showroom, arrayed with woollen wares—vests, ponchos, belts. “Feel this,” she prompts, holding a ball of yarn she’s just carded. I ﬁnger the wool, thick and soft. Outside, sheep

bleat. Becerra’s operation is soup to nuts: She shears the sheep, spins and dyes the wool, devises designs, then gets busy weaving. I gravitate to a purple scarf for my teenaged son, who always underdresses in winter. “The maqui berry gives that wonderful colour,” she says. I’m tempted to buy it but, no longer clear on what clothing he’ll like, pass, a decision I’ll regret. “I have one more spot to show you,” Pollak says as we get back in her car. “It’s a special place of mine. Huinfuica Lagoon.” The scenery transforms before my eyes as we climb south. The vegetation—leafy, mixed with ﬁr trees—is abruptly overtaken by araucarias, their slender trunks sheathed in gnarly bark and sprouting tiered branches. Dinosaur trees. Dubbed “living fossils” for their thousand-year life span, araucarias (also called monkey-puzzle trees) are sacred to the Mapuche. As is Lanín Volcano, rearing up like a snow-robed god on the near horizon. “This may be my favourite hike on Earth,” Pollak says, parking. A ﬂurry of emerald-winged parakeets swirls into view above us. JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

In Focus | JOU R N EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E

following the tracks of Leandro, the guide leading me and Toro, whom I’ve coaxed into joining me, toward the summit. “This volcano is part of the Pacific ‘ring of fire,’ ” Leandro calls out as we tramp along. He stops at a crevasse: Its ice walls glisten with blue meltwater, a beautiful but disquieting sight. Glaciers here, as elsewhere, are retreating. Leandro sweeps his arm around. “You can see eight of the nine major volcanoes that formed this part of Chile.” He points out Osorno, near my last stop, Puerto Varas. Maybe it’s the lofty view, but I’m feeling light as a feather. Feathers sure would come in handy within the hour. “Didn’t you want to zip line?” Leandro asks when we’re back in the SUV. “We have one of the best in South America, the Condor.” So here Toro and I stand, harnessed and helmeted, on the lip of a gorge called El Abismo. Across the abyss—a 300-foot-deep slash in the mountain—snakes a zip line. “Really, Leandro? We’re first-timers.” My voice sounds pale. GLITTERING LAKES and bluffs threaded with the “Ladies first,” Toro declares. Well, fine. slenderest of waterfalls mark my drive south the THIS PART OF Then it hits me: I’ll do this for bragging following day. CHILE HONOURS rights with my son. I toe the edge—and “Bienvenida a la Montaña Mágica!” I barely regislaunch myself across the chasm, over treeter the receptionist’s greeting; I’m sizing up the sight WHAT HAS BEEN tops and under what suddenly feels like an before me, a conical, hobbit-like wood lodge. Or is it AND LOOKS infinite sky. Rocketing in, I pull off a solid a volcano? “A bit of both,” the receptionist explains. FORWARD TO landing. Toro follows. Exultant, we high“Our Magic Mountain represents our forest as well as WHAT CAN BE. five and begin shedding our harnesses. Mocho-Choshuenco Volcano. See it over there?” WHICH, IN A “Not so fast,” Leandro says, grinning. “The She points out a window. Hulking MochoCondor has five zip lines. Venga!” Choshuenco is the heart of the 600-square-kilometre WAY, IS THE Huilo Huilo’s spell will vaporize Huilo Huilo Biological Reserve, a sustainable-tourism CONVERSATION the next day as the scenery reverts to playground with a museum, trails, and multiple I HAVE BEEN fields and towns on my drive to Lake lodges, including the adjacent Nothofagus Hotel & HAVING WITH Llanquihue. Soon I make out Osorno Spa. Which is where I now find myself corkscrewing MYSELF ABOUT Volcano and within the hour reach Hotel down a log ramp to meet Chilean writer, Manuel MOTHERHOOD Arrebol, a rock-meets-wood lodge near Pino Toro. Nothofagus is an inversion of Magic the resort town of Puerto Varas. Blue-eyed Mountain’s cone; guest rooms radiate off the co-owner Harald Opitz Jurgens gives me spiralling central ramp into surrounding trees. the lay of the land. “Do you know any “What do you think?” Toro asks as he orders German? Puerto Varas and the town of Frutillar, across us pisco sours, a Chilean favourite. Men in kayaking gear the lake, were largely settled by Germans in the 1800s. You’ll tramp past. I scan banisters made of branches and windows come across many German names and establishments— looking out on trees. “Whoever designed this place had gasthäuser (guest houses), bierstuben (bars).” fun,” I say. “What would lure Germans halfway around the globe?” I ask. He suggests I visit the Huilo Huilo Foundation, in the nearby “The same things that brought my family, lots of open land village of Neltume. When I get there, I hear laughter rippling and natural beauty. We designed our lodge using the vernacular out of the side-street cottage. Entering, I find women making of Patagonia—simple shapes and materials from nature.” His cloth dolls accessorized with acorns and other forest-sourced words describe the transformation of things from one reality trappings during a foundation workshop. to another that I’d found in Pucón and Huilo Huilo. They also “Fabricamos muñecos mágicas,” says one woman. “We are describe what I’ll find the following day, in Frutillar. making magical fairies depicting our natural world.” Another “It looks like a ship,” one visitor says to another as I apwoman is stitching lichen onto a fairy: a straight-from-the-forproach the Teatro del Lago, a piece of architectural bravado on est jacket. Then I spot a flute-toting sprite, the perfect talisman Frutillar’s quiet lakefront. “To me, it’s a modern palace,” says the for my musical son. As the ladies wrap it up for me, they urge friend. I see both, though I also see a lighthouse. me to visit the beekeeping workshop, to try its organic honey. “We wanted it to suggest different things,” says Ulrich Bader, Adventure—hiking, kayaking, mountain biking—is Huilo the theatre’s creative director, as he fetches us some coffee in Huilo’s other focus, so soon I’m manoeuvring crampon-fanged the theatre’s slyly named Café CapPuccini. A playbill announces boots on a glacier on Mocho-Choshuenco. Roped up, I’m As we step onto a trail winding through bamboo, araucaria, and beech trees, a gold-winged beetle teeters in and settles on my arm. Suddenly, a green lizard, neon in the shade, darts onto the path—and I think of my son. I helped him with homework on the brown lizards back home. This showy one would transport him. Why in the world, my mom brain hisses, am I here without him? Unnerved, I sprint ahead of Pollak to Huinfuica Lagoon, and find the answer. The pool, flanked on three sides by mountains, like a Roman amphitheatre, lies still as glass. Behind me rises Lanín Volcano, silent but very present. The only footprints on the volcanic sand are mine; I have the place utterly to myself. For a long moment I feel removed from the scrolling of time— a feeling that the presence of my teenage son, no matter how much I wish he were here, would have altered.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Q SOUTH AME RICA

The log-built Nothofagus (top left) blends in with its woodsy setting in the Huilo Huilo Reserve; Backdropped by Osorno Volcano, a visitor feeds llamas along Lake Llanquihue (top right); Clean lines and wide window views distinguish the reﬁned Hotel Antumalal in Pucón (bottom).

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

In Focus | JOURN EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E

“I’M LIVING IN AN AMAZING PLACE,” MY FRIEND ULI SAYS. “IT’S LIKE TUSCANY, BAVARIA, AND LAKE COMO ROLLED INTO ONE, BUT WITH CALDERAS.”

One of South America’s most active volcanoes, Villarrica lights up a star-splashed night sky. Its most recent eruption was in July 2015.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Q SOUTH AME RICA

The Best of Chile’s Lakes Region LAKES AND MORE LAKES

Shaped by glaciers, the Seven Lakes, south of the town of Pucón in the central Lake District in Chile, are worth a visit. They include serene Lake Calafquen and tridentshaped Lake Panguipulli. Also notable: Lake Puyehue, ﬂanked by Puyehue Volcano and site of the Termas Puyehue Wellness & Spa Resort, with its array of thermal pools (www.puyehue.cl/en; doubles from $190/`12,585). MAPUCHE WAYS

HUERQUEHUE NATIONAL PARK

Known for its centuries-old araucaria trees, this national park outside Pucón ranges across mountains and forests. The scenic Los Lagos trail winds through ancient larch groves and along blue-water lakes (+562- 21960242; parque.huerquehue@conaf. cl; entry adults CLP4,000/`396, children CLP2,000/`198). ISLE OF RAINBOWS

Southwest of the resort town of Puerto Varas, off Chile’s coast, sits Chiloé, an island of rainbow-haloed hills, fishing villages, and wild wetlands. Sixteen wooden churches here boast World Heritage status. Equally photogenic are Chiloé’s stilt palafito houses; you can stay in your own palafito at the Park Hotel Quilquico (www. hpq.cl/en; doubles from $155/`10,356; includes breakfast and dinner). CHECK IN

Hotel Antumalal overlooks the placid waters of Lake Villarrica (www.antumalal.com; doubles from $224/`14,930). Montaña Mágica Lodge lies in Huilo Huilo Biological Reserve. Hikes through rainforests and treks to the MochoChoshuenco volcano, await guests at this lodge (huilohuilo.com; doubles from $440/`29,340). The hilltop Arrebol Patagonia Hotel in Puerto Varas affords beautiful views of Lake Llanquihue (www.arrebolhotel.com; doubles from $247/ `16,500; minimum two nights booking).

Lakeside musical performances are common in Puerto Varas (top), while the town of Frutillar nearby holds a legendary, annual classical music festival.

a performance by a Brazilian-jazz group—the type of music, I note with some pride, that my son has taken up. “This has been called one of Chile’s most complex buildings,” Bader tells me. “We brought acoustical experts from Europe. Even the seat fabric had to pass acoustical muster.” German-born Bader and his Chilean wife, Nicola Schiess, president of the Teatro Cultural Corporation, have big plans. “We want to make Frutillar the Salzburg of South America. Nearby is our music school, where local children learn performance arts.” What he says conﬁrms what I’ve sensed about this part of Chile: It inspires ambitious visions that honour what has been and look forward to what can be. Which, in a way, is the conversation I’ve been having with myself about motherhood and my shifting dance with it. As I stroll by Lake Llanquihue, I try to imagine how the place will look as Bader and his wife proceed on the journey of transformation they’re clearly passionate about. And I ponder my own journey in this land of volcanic change: Has any transformation taken place in me? Could I consider myself rebooted? Yes, yes, and how. My walkabout through this lakedimpled land of volcanoes has gratiﬁed my yen for spontaneity, novelty, the extraordinary—and dialled me down to a contented hum. Gawking at Lake Llanquihue and mist-shawled Osorno Volcano, I invoke the words I saw in Elisa’s Mapuche bakery: “Gracias Madre Tierra.” Thank you Mother Earth. The ultimate mother of all. I’m ready to go home, and share this with my son. JAYNE WISE is senior editor at National Geographic Traveler (U.S.). Ecuador-based PABLO CORRAL VEGA trains his lens on the cultures of South America. JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

ROBERT HARRISON/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (MUSICIANS)

The modern Museo Mapuche Pucón, in central Pucón, and the homespun Intercultural Village Center Trawupeyüm, in Curarrehue, showcase the area’s indigenous Mapuche culture. At Curarrehue, visitors can also try traditional corn bread and sautéed piñones or pine nuts (Museo Mapuche Pucón, +56-452441963; Trawupeyüm, +56-45-1971574).

In Focus | JOURN EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E

AFRICA

I N YO U R F I F T I ES

GO APE IN UGANDA AND RWANDA WITH A NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC EXPLORER

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Q AFRICA

7 TRIPS • 7 CONTINENTS • 7 DECADES

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

TEAGAN CUNNIFFE

King of the rainforest, a gorilla yawns wide in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park.

In Focus | JOU R N EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E BY ELIZABETH LONSDORF

GHANA

BENIN

TOGO

AFRICA UGANDA KENYA RWANDA TANZANIA

ATLANTIC

ZAMBIA

OCEAN

800 mi 800 km

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

INDIAN OCEAN

Elizabeth National Park. Framed by the Ruwenzori Mountains, this UNESCO Biosphere Reserve encompasses grasslands, forests, wetlands, and lakes, and is home to more than 90 mammal species. Excursions will include a game drive to spot such classic African animals as antelopes, baboons, and lions (including uncommon tree-climbing lions), and a wildlife-watching cruise along the Kazinga channel, where we’ll view hippos and entire families of elephants. A week into our trip now, we head to one of the most spectacular parks I’ve visited, Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, where we will see one of the rarest animals in the world, the mountain gorilla. Largest of the great apes, mountain gorillas also are the most endangered: Fewer than a thousand remain. I always considered myself a “chimp person,” but the instant I spotted a mountain gorilla in the wild, I understood what kept legendary American primatologist Dian Fossey out in the rugged forests of East Africa for so many years. Peering into the eyes of these intelligent apes changes you. Suddenly, it becomes clear how precious these, and the planet’s other wild creatures, are—and how our world would be a much emptier place without them. “Entering Bwindi can feel like time travelling,” Molly Feltner, a veteran of the Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project, says. “One moment you’re in a landscape dominated by man, the next you’re in a scene from the Mesozoic era. Bwindi’s rainforest, a labyrinth of ferns and trees, envelops you in green.” The plant life is so dense, Feltner notes, that “I’ve heard and smelled more wildlife there than I’ve seen. The big exception is the mountain gorilla. If you’re willing to climb steep hills and wade through damp undergrowth, Bwindi’s habituated mountain gorilla groups will allow you into their world.” Our ﬁnal destination is Volcanoes National Park in northwestern Rwanda, which was made famous by Fossey’s research here with mountain gorillas (supported by the National Geographic Society). We gather at park headquarters and divide into groups assigned to one of ten habituated gorilla families. Each group is taken to the trailhead closest to where its family slept the night before (gorillas make new “nests” nightly), and prepares to hike in. The trek will take up to six hours, but nobody minds; we’re walking in Fossey’s footsteps. Once at the nesting site, we pass our allotted hour mesmerized by the adult gorillas as they eat, rest, and groom while their youngsters romp. On our return down the mountain, I’ll overhear members of my group exclaim about how huge the silverback male was, how adorable the youngsters were, and, if we saw a baby, how amazing it is that such a tiny thing could grow into a silverback. The relatively little time we have passed in the presence of one of Earth’s rarest and most majestic animals has made us some of the luckiest people in the world. Q “THE GREAT APES OF UGANDA AND RWANDA,” 13 DAYS; FROM $11,995/`7,96,288 (INCLUDES PRIMATE-TRACKING PERMITS). FOR DATES AND OTHER DETAILS, VISIT WWW.NATIONALGEOGRAPHICEXPEDITIONS.COM .

NG MAPS

remember the first time I looked in the eyes of a great ape in the wild. There was an instant connection, a mutual understanding that I was there not to harm her but to observe her. That particular ape was a chimpanzee named Fifi, who had become famous thanks to a story in National Geographic documenting the ground-breaking work of primatologist Jane Goodall. Fifi was lying on her back and using her feet to hold her infant daughter up in the air while she tickled her with her fingers. It was so similar to how human mothers play with their kids that it took my breath away. This encounter happened at the start of my doctoral research into animal behaviour, and I knew right then I wanted to learn everything about how young apes develop. I’ve spent countless hours in the 17 years since watching apes in the wild. As a primatologist and a National Geographic emerging explorer, I’ve accompanied National Geographic Expeditions to Uganda and Rwanda. A featured stop on these “Great Apes” adventures is one of Africa’s top primate research sites, Kibale Forest National Park in southwest Uganda, where the staff has habituated a group of wild chimpanzees to the presence of humans. Led by a guide, we walk quietly into the tropical forest listening for chimp “pant hoots,” calls the animals make to locate one another. Once we hear a hoot, we follow it, and soon it happens—we see wild chimpanzees. They’re curious about us but remain calm. I explain how each chimp is recognizable by individual facial features, size, and fur colour. Our guide then shares who is playful, who is dominant, who is serious. We all are captivated by Kibale’s chimps—but three more parks lie ahead, so soon we’re off to the next, Uganda’s Queen

Q AFRICA

A villager in Togo’s Koutammakou region, a World Heritage Site, adjusts thatching on a traditional mud home.

Go Deep: Guided Safaris into the Heart of Africa ZAMBIA/VICTORIA FALLS

GHANA/TOGO/BENIN

Discover the birthplace of walking safaris in an emerging Africa nature destination: Zambia. African Safari Consultants’ “Victoria Falls and Zambian Big Game Safari” starts at one of Earth’s largest waterfalls; the nearby Mosioa-Tunya National Park is home to elephants, giraffes, and impalas. You’re then whisked to South Luangwa National Park, where you have the chance to see leopards, hippos, eagles, and more. Spend your ﬁnal nights at Lower Zambezi National Park, a hidden wilderness along the Zambezi River (www.africansafaris. com; 10 days; $8,390/`5,60,707 per person; includes local ﬂights).

West Africa may not have remarkable congregations of wild animals, but it more than makes up for that absence with its cultural and historical attractions. Introduce yourself to its mud-built villages, ethnic markets, and rich artistic traditions on a “Cultural Vacation in Ghana, Togo and Benin” with Responsible Travel. Featured highlights: a visit to a Togo stilt village; the Temple of Pythons in Benin, where pythons are venerated; and Ghana’s Royal Palace Museum, for its exhibits of gold jewellery (www.responsiblevacation.com; 12 days; from $3,036/`2,02,897 per person; excludes ﬂights).

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

YVES REGALDI

KENYA/TANZANIA

Ernest Hemingway is just one of many travellers who have fallen for the epic landscapes and vast wildlife gatherings of East Africa. You may too, on an “Ultimate Kenya & Tanzania Safari” with Natural Habitat Adventures and the World Wildlife Fund. Featured on this safari: Serengeti National Park, famed for its migrations of wildebeest and zebras; the grasslands of Masai Mara; and the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, which began as a rhino sanctuary and today is part of the Mount Kenya World Heritage Site (www. nathab.com; 14 days; from $15,995/`10,59,348 per person; includes local ﬂights).

In Focus | JOURN EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E

ANTARCTICA

TRIP OF A LIFETIME

THINK YOU’VE SEEN IT ALL? HEAD SOUTH—FAR SOUTH—TO THE ULTIMATE CONTINENT

A frozen crown of an iceberg rides the polar waters around Antarctica.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

Q AN TARCTICA

JOSHUA HOLKO (ICEBERG)

7 TRIPS • 7 CONTINENTS • 7 DECADES

JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

In Focus | JOURN EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E REPORTED BY JAYNE WISE

owering mountains rise straight out of iceclogged seas, icebergs gleam the radiant blue that only ancient ice attains, wildlife congregates in multitudes. In Antarctica, you see things clearly,” says photographer Jim Richardson, whose decades of travel have taken him twice to the white continent. If Antarctica is a destination for clear visions, its tourism visionary was Lars-Eric Lindblad, who pioneered travel to this icy realm 50 years ago. In 1966, the Swede brought 57 goose-down-bundled passengers on a dream cruise to the ends of the Earth. In the years since, Lindblad Expeditions has pioneered sustainable Antarctic journeys, often in partnership with National Geographic (www.expeditions.com; 14 days, between Nov-Feb; from $13,360/`8,84,830 per person; excluding ﬂights). We tracked down Sven-Olof Lindblad, the founder’s son, to learn why the world’s coldest continent is our hottest ultimate destination.

What always impresses ﬁrst-time travellers on your Antarctica expeditions? The endless beauty and wonder of ice—enormous glaciers, icebergs, ice sheets. Also, the constantly changing light as it illuminates the vastness of this place. What should travellers expect? Antarctica is dramatic and nuanced at the same time. At ﬁrst it’s overwhelming, but as days progress, the nuances come into play; the shapes and colours of icebergs, the antics of penguins, the pods of whales.

Name one of your favourite Antarctic experiences. watching the goings-on in penguin colonies: their ships, how they raise their ones, their strategies to leopard seals.

200 mi

ATLANTIC

200 km

OCEAN

Cape Horn

*National Geographic Expeditions route

ag e

AREA ENLARGED

ANTARCTICA

*Route can change due to ice conditions.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | JUNE 2016

What do you expect for Antarctic travel in the coming decades? A continued growth in interest, with one possible challenge: how to offer a remarkable Antarctic experience to more and more travellers—and do it safely.

PACIFIC OCEAN

SOUTH AMERICA

I love courtyoung avoid

ARGENTINA

Ushuaia

What camera gear should travellers bring to make the most of their Antarctic experience? Whatever camera is comfortable, but understand the camera you choose. Of course, on our ships we have photo instructors—including Nat Geo photographers—to help everyone maximize their equipment.

How has travel to Antarctica changed since your father inaugurated trips to the ultimate continent? When my father began bringing people to Antarctica, no one went there. Now, many people go, on all manner of ships. In terms of the guest experience, it’s better now because of advanced technologies to predict weather

CHILE

and ice conditions. In our case, we have hydrophones and ROVs (remotely operated underwater vehicles). We also have “undersea specialists,” who take videos of underwater life during the trip for guests to enjoy.

Share with us some of your impressions of Antarctica. Its palette of whites, blues, and blacks. How nature dictates everything there and human inﬂuence is so minor. The miles and miles of ice; on my ﬁrst visit, I didn’t sleep for two days, I was so mesmerized as we crashed through sea ice.

Gentoo penguins charmed photographer Jim Richardson during one of his National Geographic Expeditions trips to the Antarctic region.

ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

What do you want travellers to return from Antarctica with? Above all, I want them to have unforgettable, knock-yoursocks-off experiences that enhance their respect for wild places—and for the importance of these places to life on Earth.

JIM RICHARDSON (PENGUINS), NG MAPS (MAP)

Why is Antarctica the ultimate trip for those in their seventh decade? Seventh decade, seventh continent. Antarctica simply can’t be missed by any traveller driven by curiosity and attracted to 21st-century exploration. This is the wildest, most dramatic place on Earth. Be prepared for constant surprise.

Q AN TARCTICA

MICHAEL S. NOLAN/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA

The ﬂagship of the National Geographic ﬂeet, the National Geographic Explorer, is considered one of the best expedition ships in the world. It can navigate some of the globe’s roughest waters, accommodate about 148 guests, and is equipped with the latest tools of exploration.

In Focus | JOURN EYS FO R A L I F ETI M E

Around the World A chance photograph taken in Barcelona sets in motion a series of images and propels an intrepid couple on journeys around the globe

herever Nataly Osmann leads, Murad Osmann follows. And so do more than four million Instagrammers, who track the Russian couple’s travels in their #FollowMeTo series. The couple created their signature hand-holding shot during their ﬁrst trip together to Barcelona, Spain, in 2012. “Nataly was keen on seeing everything from the mountain of Tibidabo to the Sagrada Família. I was just keen on taking photos,” says Murad. “At one point, I wanted to take a photo of Nataly, but she got shy and turned around, grabbing my arm and dragging me forward. As you can see, that didn’t stop me from taking the picture.” Since then, Nataly’s led the way, whether it’s through Italy or India, Bali or Brazil. “There are some countries that you fall in love with at the ﬁrst sight. We were absolutely blown away by Jordan. It’s like a small heaven that offers so many beautiful destinations for travellers who like to explore.” In June 2015, they brought their #FollowMeTo project much closer to home—to their wedding ceremonies in Moscow and the Russian republic of Dagestan, Murad’s native turf.

Top: The couple shooting at Ait-Ben-Haddou, Morocco. Facing page: 1. Paris, France; 2. The couple’s wedding in Moscow, Russia; 3. Los Angeles, U.S.A.; 4. Hong Kong, China; 5. Varanasi, India; 6. Ancient Sigiriya ruins in Sri Lanka; 7. Taj Mahal, Agra, India; 8. Ait-Ben-Haddou, Morocco; 9. New York’s Brooklyn Bridge, U.S.A.

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SERGEY GANNOTSKIY (PHOTOGRAPHER), ANTON ZEMLYANOY/GLAMOUR RUSSIA (TUXEDO), PHOTO ILLUSTRATIONS BY: MURAD OSMANN (PHOTO GRID)

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SWITZERLAND Getting to the heart of the Matterhorn

SANJAY AUSTA

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MALAYSIA Tuning into the wilds of Borneo

110 Zermatt, Switzerland

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The rainforests of Borneo are among the world’s most biologically diverse spots. They’re inhabited by endangered animals as well as more thriving species like these limber long-tailed macaques.

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TUNING INTO THE WILDS OF MALAYSIAN BORNEO BY N E H A S U M I T R A N P H OT T O G R A P H S BY BY KAREN DIA AS S OCTOBER JUNE 2016 2015 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

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THE AIR IS THICK WITH HUMIDITY. LEAVES RUSTLE, MONKEY CALLS REVERBERATE THROUGH THE FOREST, THE THROB OF CICADAS PULSATES IN MY EARS. THEIR SOUND, I NOTICE, IS VASTLY DIFFERENT FROM WHAT I’VE HEARD BACK HOME IN THE WESTERN GHATS. CH-CH-CH CH-CH CH-CH-CH CH-CH. LIKE PSYCHEDELIC TRANCE MUSIC RATHER THAN THE SCORE OF A JUNGLE. I SCAN THE CANOPY CLOSELY, LOOKING FOR SIGNS OF MOVEMENT. it grows up to 250 feet tall (and well out of reach of the honeyThe green is so thick I can’t see the sky above, the floor, or for hungry sun bears that roam these parts), deep red skinks that that matter, more than a few feet on either side of the trail I’m look drenched in blood, and a parasitic species of ficus called walking on. Everything in this rainforest is bigger, louder, densthe strangler fig tree that slowly, and elegantly, kills its host er. The trees seem kilometres-tall, with leaves larger than my plant over decades. Every tree trunk was riddled with roots, face and trunks so broad, I can half-hug them at best. covered in moss, and dressed in ferns—layer upon intricate layer I’m in the throbbing jungle of Pulau Tiga, a small island in of life, feeding and thriving off each other, giving and taking Malaysian Borneo that’s spread over six square kilometres. unscrupulously. I remember pausing to flick away a plump Accompanying me is Kenny, the chatty manager-cum-guide mosquito, leaving a red splotch on my repellent-slathered wrist. from our hotel, and Karen, a photographer and my travel When I looked down at my pants, I noticed at least 50 more companion on this trip. Each of us is lost in our own worlds. hitching a ride with me. “It’s the circle of life,” our guide, Ben, Kenny giggles at a text on his mobile phone, Karen scans had commented shrugging his shoulders. I now understand the the trail for snakes and monitor lizards, and I crane my neck potency of his words. In Borneo’s jungles, every creature, large upwards hopefully, looking for hornbills and proboscis monkeys. and small, is both predator and prey. We are hiking to one of the island’s two mud volcanoes. A bit From Sandakan, we drove to like hot springs, mud volcanoes Kota Kinabalu—Sabah’s capital are formed when water heated city—on the west coast, dozing below the surface mixes with through views of sweeping palm subterranean mineral deposits, fields and the smaller islands of creating pools of bubbling mud. Borneo dotting the South China For the last week, Karen and Sea, like silhouettes of sleeping I have been driving through the children blanketed in green. Malaysian state of Sabah, the We stopped frequently, to soak northernmost tip of the island of in water views, explore Sunday Borneo, exploring its majestic formarkets in small towns, and to ests and examining the animals buy packets of purple, red, and that inhabit them. We began our black wild rice from highway journey in Sandakan, a small city stalls to take back home. It was on the east coast, where we visited at one such no-name stall that the Sepilok Orangutan Centre, a I was introduced to the healing refuge for orphaned baby oranpowers of bak kut teh: “meat bone gutans rescued from plantations tea,” an aromatic soup made from and logging sites, or kept illegally Rafflesia blooms are the largest flowers on the planet. pork ribs simmered in a long list as pets. Borneo is the only place in Locals in Sabah often put up signs outside their homes of spices for hours, sometimes the world where orangutans live, letting tourists know if they’ve got one in their backyard. overnight. Accompanying the bak and the ginger-haired apes are the kut teh, was a quarter plate of perfectly barbecued boar and a region’s biggest tourist draws. At the centre, we crowded into the soy-flavoured stew of glistening pork belly. It was the best lunch visitors’ gallery with enthusiastic Malaysian families, to watch of our trip, and we had it watching an old kung fu movie on mute young orangutans hanging by their toes, picking their noses, with the owner, a gentle old man with knife skills worthy of a eating fruit, and grinning gummily at each other. “Stop stressing YouTube video. so much,” they seemed to be telling the camera trigger-happy In Kota Kinabalu (or KK as the locals call it), we spent an evenhumans watching them from afar. “Have a banana, instead.” ing poking around the noisy fish market and gorging on plates The orangutan centre lies within the 10,000-acre Kabiliof chilli-garlic scallops before settling down for fruit margaritas Sepilok Forest Reserve, a majority of which is virgin Borneo and foot massages at one of the many bars that line the city’s rainforest, millions of years in the making. It is a rare, stunningly harbour. The people we met along the way were warm, inviting, beautiful piece of our planet that has somehow managed and always happy to chat, but it was Borneo’s forests that had me to remain unscathed. Walking around its fringes, I saw the in rapture. Now, as we walk to the mud volcano, I feel their quiet towering Menggaris tree, a favourite of wild honey bees because

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Q MALAYS IA The island of Pulau Tiga was formed by an enormous mud volcano eruption in 1897. It still has two mud volcanoes, both tame enough for visitors to soak in.

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Dawn breaks over the snaking Kinabatangan River, giving the sky and the water a peachy blush. Watching—and listening—to the forest on its bank come to life in the morning is unforgettable.

potency again, seeping under my skin, heightening my senses, slowing my mind. “Watch out for the monkeys,” Kenny says, and I scan the forest in futility. I can’t see a single creature, but I’m pretty sure at least a hundred living beings—critters, creepers, and simian swingers—are aware of every step we take. “The macaques are harmless except for Jack and that other one I warned you about,” Kenny adds. “They can be real brats.” Close the doors and windows of your hotel room, we’d been told again and again, or you’ll return to find “the monkeys have been partying.” It’s a warning that Karen and I are used to. Rhesus macaques are an issue back home in India too, especially at hill stations and temples where offerings of fruit are made. “What’s the other monkey called?” I enquire, careful not to trip on the root-riddled trail. “Ass,” Kenny says flashing me a toothy grin. “Geddit? Jack-Ass!” WE ARRIVED ON the island yesterday. Pulau Tiga—or as everybody on the island prefers to call it: the place where the reality TV series, Survivor Season One, was filmed—is a breathtaking piece of land. It has a lush forest, gorgeous beaches, and turquoise waters that make the heaviest of burdens seem lighter. Better still, its home reef is part of Tiga Island Marine Park that covers 158 square kilometres of mostly ocean. Snorkelling the previous day, Karen and I saw pairs of clownfish, yellow-tailed angelfish nuzzling anemones, and soft coral dancing dreamily to the ocean currents. We are the only two guests at Survivor Lodge Pulau Tiga resort, and for a blissful hour that afternoon, were the only two humans in the ocean too.

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Spectacular as it was, snorkelling around the island was a bittersweet experience. Sections of the coral we saw were bleached of colour—usually an indicator that they are no longer alive and a stark reminder of just how fragile this ecosystem is. Farther from the shore, the reef was healthier. Gliding through the water, I saw coral that was sharp and branched, like a forest of antlers; others were like pale pink rosettes, and a few more, like enormous cerebrum—a species I later found out, was sensibly named brain coral. Thankfully, the jungles of Pulau Tiga have survived, despite the popularity of the reality television show that catapulted it to fame. Our resort, I was happy to learn, is the only one on the island, and the rooms are on the fringes, so guests wake up to sublime beach views and the forest remains largely untouched. The mud volcano however, has seen more than its fair share of humans I’m sure. “Go on,” Karen says grinning like an orangutan and pointing her alarmingly large camera lens at me. I contemplate the brownish-grey pond of ominously bubbling muck before me. Soaking in a mud volcano sounds terribly cool on paper, but now that I’m here, standing before this strange-smelling pool of slurry, I’m not so sure. “Just jump in,” Kenny urges. “It actually feels really good once you’re inside.” Jumping seems like a bit much at this point, so I kick off my ﬂip-ﬂops, strip down to my swimsuit, grab a hanging root for leverage and gingerly slide in. The sludge is thick, like clay, and cloaks me instantly. It isn’t warm as I imagined it would be, but cool, like a mudpack. Occasionally, large bubbles emerge, breaking the surface, making

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The canopy walk at the Rainforest Discovery Centre (near Sandakan) gives visitors the chance to observe Borneo’s ﬂora from a height. The metal walkway that snakes through this protected forest is about 82 feet above ground, and yet the trees tower above it.

me jump. It feels incredibly strange at first, but soon, I discover something else about the sludge that changes everything: I can float. The consistency of the mud, gives me absurd levels of buoyancy and I’m happily floating around the pool, urging Karen to join me. Kenny tells us that the clay is therapeutic, especially for the hair and skin. Still, it isn’t until a half hour later that I dare slather some muck on my face (in Survivor-style stripes, of course). In the distance a pair of hornbills call out to each other, and closer—far too close for my comfort—I hear the screech of a troop of monkeys. I stiffen instantly, but Kenny seems unperturbed, and it occurs to me again how comfortable so many of the people I have met in Borneo are with their rainforest. A few days before we arrived by ferry on Pulau Tiga, we had spent the night at a homestay in Batu Puteh village, on the bank of the Kinabatangan, a temperamental chai-coloured river that snakes through upper Borneo. Most remarkable to me, was that one of the largest flyovers in Sabah criss-crossed over parts of the village and the rainforest that it skirted. And yet, the jungle thrived. On a morning boat ride, we saw bands of proboscis monkeys, pairs of hornbills, and dozens of longtailed macaques foraging for fruit. Watching the hornbills, some as close as ten feet away, was a rare privilege and we spent 15 minutes gawking at them in conversation with each other. These magnificently beaked birds mate for life, rarely ever leaving their significant other’s side after they’ve found them. “How old is this forest?” I asked Abby, our teenage guide from Batu Puteh “Oh, about 20 years,” he had answered, and added “A little older than me.”

Later that day, we had met Rosli, an older gent from the Tungog Rainforest Eco Camp, a clutch of rustic log cabins in a secluded piece of jungle that is completely off the grid. Soaking in views of the Tungog Lake, blanketed in the beautiful but invasive Salvinia fern, Rosli told us about the forest he knows so intimately. From him, we learnt that large swathes of the lower Kinabatangan region were lost to the timber industry in the 1960s and ’70s, and it was only after the Malaysian government restricted deforestation in the ’90s that this land finally had a chance to heal. Today, this restored forest shelters creatures big and small: orangutans, pygmy elephants, crocodiles, spiders, snakes, and hundreds of species of endangered orchids. The biodiversity in this region is astonishing: a single dipterocarp tree, I was told, is home to over 1,000 species of insects. The Tungog Rainforest Eco Camp is part of MESCOT, a community-based ecotourism initiative that began in the early 2000s to encourage locals to give rather than take from their forest. “What about animal-human conflict?” I ask Rosli, as we examine what looks like an armoured caterpillar on a velvety patch of moss. Don’t the monkeys ever stray over to the village looking for food? He smiles warmly, and shakes his head, “The monkeys have their fig trees now: no need to raid the village. The humans have a means of livelihood other than timber: no need to raid the forest.” It was of course, a simplistic approach to a deeply complicated problem, and yet, meeting Rosli, and walking through the forest along the Kinabatangan was uplifting: If that beautiful, throbbing cradle of life could be resurrected in only 20 years, perhaps there was hope after all? JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

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The island of Borneo is the only place on Earth where orangutans can still be spotted in the wild. These bratty young apes live at the Sepilok Orangutan Centre, where rescued apes are rehabilitated.

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RODGER KIEIN/VWPICS/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA (FISH)

The forests of Sabah are as tall as they are deep. On land, sun bears (top left) forage for insects, and monitor lizards (top right) ﬂick the ground with their forked tongues looking for morsels. Hornbills perch on the crests of immense dipterocarp trees (bottom right) and in Sabah’s turquoise waters, coral reefs bloom, sea anemones glow, and shoals of colourful ﬁsh roam (bottom left).

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I think about this as I soak in the mud volcano, watching Kenny carefully set aside a beetle that’s crawled onto his arm. It’s time to leave, he tells us clapping his hands. The light will start fading soon, and darkness we’ve learned, comes swiftly in these jungles. As if a lightbulb has been switched off. When we emerge from the forest after a slippery 30-minute walk, we grab a pair of snorkelling masks from the dive shop, and jump head-first into the mirror-calm waters of the South China Sea. It is an invigorating swim because of the exfoliation treatment we give ourselves to get the mud off our bodies. When it’s finally off and I am scrubbed raw, we swim toward the reef, keen to make the most of the dying light. The sky is a swirling potion of crimson, mauve, and pink. The ocean has a faint pink blush cresting its waves. The water is cool, perfect for this warm evening in December. With my snorkelling mask firmly in place, I glide over the reef, watching a dainty butterfly fish dart between fans of coral. A shoal of tiny silver fish swim by, impervious to my presence and a few feet away, I notice a crab perched on a hill of purple coral, surveying the ocean from its little throne. But the sounds I hear are from the forest above. Chch-ch Ch-ch Ch-ch-ch Ch-ch. It’s an exhilarating feeling, observing a marine park, while listening to the rise and fall of cicadas. I raise my head to catch a pair of hornbills glide through the forest, and when I look below, a lone parrotfish streaks past my ear.

ANDY SELINGER/AGE FOTOSTOCK/DINODIA (BOAT)

Pulau Tiga has the best of both worlds: dense rainforests, as well as beaches with talcum-powder-soft sand (bottom), swaying palm trees, and endless ocean views (top).

NEHA SUMITRAN is National Geographic Traveller India’s perpetually hungry Web Editor. She loves exploring food markets, and hopes to have a farm near the mountains someday. Photographer KAREN DIAS shuttles between Mumbai and Goa. When she isn’t shooting, she can be found reading, drinking feni, and planning her next big adventure.

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THE GUIDE

Orientation

Getting There

Visa

Seasons

Survivor Lodge Pulau Tiga

Pulau Tiga is a Malaysian island in Sabah, Borneo. It is a 30-minute ferry ride from Kuala Penyu town, which is 105 km/2 hr from the city of Kota Kinabalu. Borneo is the third-largest island in the world, and is located in Southeast Asia, in the South China Sea, which is part of the southwestern Paciﬁc Ocean. Borneo consists of the northern states of Sabah and Sarawak which are part of Malaysia, the four provinces of Kalimantan which belong to Indonesia, and the nation of Brunei Darussalam.

Tiga Island Marine Park The marine park is open to all. Visitors can take the morning ferry from Kuala Penyu, spend the day snorkelling, have lunch at Survivor Lodge, and return on the evening ferry.

Kota Kinabalu, the capital of Sabah, has an international airport with good connections to Southeast Asian cities. There are no direct ﬂights between India and Kota Kinabalu. All connections require one layover, most often in Kuala Lumpur. Indians require a visa to visit Malaysia, except if they are ﬂying in from Thailand and Singapore and have a valid visa for either of these countries. Applications for a Malaysian visa can be done online and require only two working days to process (www.vfsglobal. com; `3,400 for a 30-day, single-entry visa). Since much of Sabah is rainforest, it’s almost always raining somewhere or the other. That being said, October to March is generally considered the wetter of the two seasons, making April to September the time when the region receives more tourists. The weather is humid, temperamental, and characterised by short, heavy showers. Average temperatures range from 25-35ºC throughout the year.

Survivor Lodge is the only resort on Pulau Tiga. It has beach-facing rooms with a shaded porch. Accommodation is clean and airconditioned. The resort has a dive shop where scuba equipment, and snorkelling ﬁns and masks can be hired, and a room near the lobby that doubles up as a karaoke bar a few times a week (www. sdclodges.com; doubles from MYR430/`7120, including meals).

Ancient Rainforests To experience the virgin rainforests of Borneo in all their hissing, thundering glory, visit the Tabin Wildlife Reserve, Danum Valley Reserve, or the Maliau Basin. The Tabin Wildlife Reserve has a single government-run resort nestled in the thick of a protected forest, and organises jungle hikes, safaris, and night walks into the wild. Danum Valley is predominantly a research centre, though it does have two 48-bed hostel blocks and two VIP rooms, and is open to the public. Nature walks are conducted daily. Maliau Basin is often called Borneo’s last true wilderness, and was until recently, completely closed to the public. There are no lodges here, but a few tour companies organise hikes into its dense jungles. These are rugged, no-frills camping trips, but do promise unforgettable adventures.

A Kota Kinabalu restaurant (left) serves ngiu chap: egg noodles and beef meatballs served in a rich, fragrant, meat broth (right). Locals have their bowls of ngiu chap with black tea or tall glasses of iced Milo chocolate milk.

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A MATTER OF

OBSESSION THE LORE SURROUNDING SWITZERLANDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MOST FAMOUS

ALPINE PEAK MAKES IT LARGER THAN LIFE BY N E H A DA R A P H OTO G R A P H S B Y SA N J AY AU STA

Q SW ITZ E RLAN D The observation platform at Gornergrat is a popular day trip from the village of Zermatt. It affords a panoramic view of the famous Matterhorn mountain, the dramatic Gorner Glacier, and Dufourspitze, Switzerlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highest peak on the Monte Rosa massif.

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IT’S IMPOSSIBLE TO IGNORE THE Matterhorn in Zermatt, the alpine ski village in southern Switzerland that’s as favoured by the rich and famous as it is by skiing aﬁcionados. The mountain peak is the ﬁrst thing you see as you exit the train station, looming over the village’s wooden chalets adorned by window boxes bursting with bright geraniums in summer. Chocolates are made in its shape, as are pizzas, beers are named after it, and the peak is even painted on numerous shopfronts.

The gondola up to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise is a vertigoinducing ride over forest, streams, and meadows.

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I’m visiting Zermatt for two days and my short trip, at the end of a week-long journey through the country, is all about this iconic peak. Checking into the hotel after a long day of travel, I collapse into a chair on the balcony. My room has a Matterhorn view and I examine the crooked peak that’s brought me here. This 4,478-metre-high mountain was the last of the Alpine peaks to be climbed and, to date, remains an emblem of the Alps. It’s been 150 years since it was successfully summited, and a special light installation commemorates that expedition. At 9 p.m. when the sky has darkened into a deep cobalt blue, one bright light comes up at the base of the peak. Over the next ﬁve minutes, more lights switch on, marking the expedition’s perilous route up the peak’s northeastern ridge. The story of that expedition, which ended in success but also in the death of four of the seven climbers, was one of the ﬁrst things I heard when I got here. The events may have taken place in 1865, but everybody has an opinion and there is still a lot of conjecture about what really happened. I too get caught up in the tale and spend time

A sunny morning ﬁnds a variety of people on the Matterhorn Glacier Trail, from runners preparing for a marathon to weekend hikers. As you descend, the landscape changes from glacial moraine to grassy meadows full of ﬂowers.

exploring the large section dedicated to the expedition at the Matterhorn Museum in the village. Early next morning, photographer Sanjay Austa and I take the train up to Gornergrat, a super vantage point to see the Matterhorn and surrounding Alpine peaks. Our bright red train cuts a pretty picture against the bleak stony landscape and I can’t seem to get enough photos of it with the Matterhorn in the background. I take more photos of the peak on the way up to the viewing platform, some when we get up there, and even a few on the way down. When I laugh at my inability to stop clicking, our guide, Christine, tells me not to worry; she totally gets the obsessiveness. Christine is from Germany. She came to Zermatt to work for a year and ended up staying. She’s been waking up to the sight of this lofty peak for 15 years and yet, she says, it continues to surprise her. We meet another example of this obsessiveness on the way down. Mathew Fletcher has a row of paintings of the Matterhorn lined beside the path. Every day for almost 17 years, the man

from York sits at his perfect vantage point and paints the Matterhorn, capturing it in every kind of light and weather. The Matterhorn is both his obsession, and his source of income. And he says he never gets bored. Mountains are mesmerising and one like the Matterhorn, that has so many moods, can never be dull. Early in the morning, its distinctive peak is the only thing lit up by the rising sun while the rest is still in darkness and shadow. Skiers and climbers are usually the ﬁrst ones there, taking the gondola up to slopes that are active in summer and winter. As the day wears on, the peak cuts a striking ﬁgure against the stark blue summer sky. And in the late afternoon, when it frequently rains, there’s a tiny cloud hovering near the top that makes me think of the Magic Faraway Tree, one of my favourite books growing up. I wonder what magical land is hidden in that cloud, and imagine climbing the peak and disappearing into it. Strolling through the village in the evening, no matter where I am—watching little boys help a shepherd guide his herd JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

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Zermatt’s narrow, car-free lanes are lined with cafés and bars, perfect for relaxing over a cuppa after an active day outdoors.

Displays in the underground Matterhorn Museum (top left) recreate a traditional 19th-century Alpine village. One of the exhibits shows a shoemakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shop; Zermatt frequently hosts street festivals (top right) where local produce like cheese and sausage is sold; Twice a day during summer, shepherds lead a herd of Valais blackneck goats out to pasture and back, through Zermattâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main street (bottom).

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“THE MATTERHORN LOOKS EQUALLY IMPOSING FROM WHATEVER SIDE IT IS SEEN; IT NEVER SEEMS COMMONPLACE; AND IN THIS RESPECT, AND IN REGARD TO THE IMPRESSION IT MAKES UPON SPECTATORS, IT STANDS ALMOST ALONE AMONGST MOUNTAINS. IT HAS NO RIVALS IN THE ALPS, AND BUT FEW IN THE WORLD.” EDWARD WHYMPER (LED FIRST ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN) IN SCRAMBLES AMONGST THE ALPS

down the main street, tasting cheese at a stall, or resting on a park bench—the Matterhorn is always in sight. I feel like we’re dancing a slow, flirtatious tango with the mountain, inching closer with each step. Sanjay and I don’t want to waste a single moment of light, so we take the very first gondola to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise the next morning, leaving a note for our guide to join us. Though it’s just 6 a.m., the gondola is full of skiers and we stand cheek by jowl with brightly dressed people juggling backpacks, skis, and poles. Located at 3,883 metres, the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise is the highest point in Europe that can be reached by a gondola and the starting point for skiing, mountain climbing, and numerous other winter sports. For non-sporty visitors, it has a platform with a 360° view of 38 Alpine peaks, a restaurant with stunning panoramas, and a passage carved right through the glacier itself. It takes us three gondola rides and about Matterhornan hour and fifteen minutes to shaped pizza reach the top and emerge into a landscape of white. Groups of climbers are already more than halfway up the Breithorn, a relatively easy-toclimb 4,164-metre-high peak that’s popular with mountaineers. Some of them come from Italy; the Swiss border with the country is just a short walk southwest. It’s bracingly cold as I walk onto a beginners’ piste, stomping my feet to keep warm. My hands are deep in my pockets and my jacket’s hoodie is pulled up, but my face is exposed to the chilly wind. I enjoy the mix of its cold touch and the gentle warmth of the morning sun reflecting off the hard snow. Skiers whizz past rapidly, turning onto different slopes, each according to their capability, and suddenly the large group we came up with has dispersed. On a very clear day, it is possible to see the Mediterranean Sea from here. While I can’t spot that expanse of blue, I can see numerous peaks around me. Many are higher than the Matterhorn, but none have its aura. The lore surrounding this pyramidal peak makes it larger than life. Its alluring shape, with four nearsymmetrical faces in the four cardinal directions, has stirred many a mountaineer to attempt climbing it. There were about 17 tries to climb the peak, before the first tragically successful ascent. Even today, the peak claims about a dozen lives each year, making it one of the deadliest mountains in the world. Eager to get closer to the peak, we set off to walk the Matterhorn glacier trail when our guide arrives. It is an easy

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hike on a rocky route that hugs the base of the glacier. We’re walking on glacial moraine, rock, and scree left behind by the retreating glacier. Little signboards along the way have nuggets of information that shed light on the life that even a seemingly barren landscape like this supports. We stop to have a picnic breakfast at a little glacial lake. It seems to exist in that spot only to provide photographers with a perfect reflection of the Matterhorn’s peak, which seems to loom right overhead. I can see the Hornli Hut at the base, where climbers stay overnight before attempting the final climb to the top in the wee hours of the morning, and the snaking narrow path to it. The chilly morning has turned into a perfect summer day and as we continue down the trail, we encounter a number of people enjoying the beautiful outdoors. The really athletic are running up the same trail we’re strolling down. There are smiling old ladies armed with walking sticks keeping a steady pace right behind them. A fisherman sits by another little glacial lake, cheerily singing along to tunes playing on his small radio, seeming unconcerned about whether he catches anything. At a restaurant near the Schwarzsee gondola station, couples enjoy cups of coffee while a band serenades them under the gaze of the Matterhorn. As we descend lower, the landscape is no longer bleak. Soft grass carpets the slopes and there are clusters of wild flowers. I rent a dirt scooter and ride it downhill shrieking with fear and excitement. It gains momentum rapidly so it takes me a while to get the hang of it, but once I do, it’s a fun way to travel. By the time I reach the next gondola station at Furi, my legs feel like wobbly jelly. Later that day, as we leave Zermatt, my gaze remains locked on the hooked peak until the moment I board the train. I’m amused by my obsession, my inability to look away reminding me of the old tradition of never turning your back on royalty. But that seems to make sense, for the Matterhorn may not be the tallest or the most inaccessible, but it inspires an awe and reverence that makes it supreme among Alpine peaks. NEHA DARA is the Deputy Editor of National Geographic Traveller India. She is happiest trotting off the beaten path, trekking, scuba diving, or exploring local markets. Photographer and writer, SANJAY AUSTA, splits his time between New Delhi and his family’s apple orchard in Himachal Pradesh.

Q SW ITZ E RLAN D

THE GUIDE Orientation Often described as a jagged tooth or a hooked claw, the Matterhorn peak is located in southern Switzerland, close to the country’s border with Italy. At 4,478 metres, it is one of the highest peaks in the Alps. The mountain overlooks the village of Zermatt, located in the canton of Valais.

Getting There There are direct ﬂights to Zurich from Mumbai and Delhi (duration just under nine hours). The popular mountaineering and ski resort of Zermatt is a three-hour train journey south of Zurich with frequent trains departing from Zurich Hauptbahnof or Zurich HB, Switzerland’s largest train station. The easiest connection, with a single change at Visp, leaves every hour, starting at 6.02 a.m (fare CHF61.50/`4,215). Details of train connections are easy to ﬁnd using the SBB website and app, through which tickets can also be purchased (www.sbb.ch).

Visa Indian travellers to Switzerland require a Schengen visa. A conﬁrmed ticket, insurance, and ﬁnancial documents are prerequisites and a tourist visa costs `4,872. The processing time for a visa is 5 working days. Application forms and instructions are available on www.vfs-ch-in.com

Getting Around Zermatt is a car-free village and those who drive to the ski resort have to leave their cars 5 km away at Täsch and take a shuttle

in. In the village, everything is within walking distance, and that really is the best way to soak in its sights. However, there are plenty of e-taxis (tiny locally produced vehicles that run on electricity) for when you don’t want to walk.

Gornergrat The observation platform at Gornergrat, located at a height of 3,089 m, affords a great view of the Matterhorn and the surrounding Alps. The vibrant red cog wheel train that takes visitors up from Zermatt cuts a pretty picture against the mountain panorama (www.gornergratbahn.ch; round trip ticket CHF90/`6,170; half price with Swiss travel card). Many visitors choose to purchase tickets for a section of the 30-minute train journey or one-way, and hike the remainder, enjoying the beautiful scenery at a leisurely pace.

Matterhorn Glacier Paradise Europe’s highest cable car station, at 3,883 m, is at the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. Located on the Theodul Glacier, the complex is a hub for skiers and climbers. It also has plenty of attractions for less active visitors, with an observation platform, a glacier palace carved into the ice 15 m below the surface, a lodge, and restaurant (www.matterhornparadise.ch; open all year; roundtrip CHF100/`6,848, half price with Swiss travel card; glacier palace entry CHF8/`548). Many visitors take the gondola up, and get tickets for sections of the return, so they can hike the stretch between Trockener Steg and Schwarzsee, which is a lovely 2.5-hr hike known as the Matterhorn Glacier Trail.

The tiny glacial lakes on the trail from Trockener Steg to Schwarzsee invite hikers to linger and perhaps watch a ﬁsherman setting up tack, a family enjoying a picnic, or a man and his dog sprawled on the grass.

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FROM BENGALURU A yoga retreat becomes a wake-up call to action

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STAY Birds, books, and brisk mountain air in Uttarakhand

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STAY Bloody battles to Bloody Marys at Goa's Fort Tiracol

Deep Breathing TURNING THE FOCUS INWARD ON A SPIRITUALLY INCLINED WEEKEND GETAWAY

lthough I know a lot of people who have stayed at an ashram, I’d never been to one myself, mainly because I’m not a fan of organized religion. But when a friend convinced me that almost anyone can gain from a visit to a place like the Isha Yoga Center, I decided to survey it for myself. After all, a lot of travellers today are seeking spiritual experiences—a place of peace and rest that rejuvenates mind and body. And yoga and meditation retreats are at the top of this list. After a short ﬂight from Mumbai to Coimbatore, I took a 1.5-hour car ride from the airport to the foothills of the Velliangiri Hills, where the centre is located. The centre’s indoor and outdoor spaces were attractive and well designed; in particular the

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profusion of greenery and gorgeous ﬂowering plants were soothing. I had imagined a more basic and austere environment, I wasn’t expecting to see carved rocks, aesthetic woodwork, and inspired design in the architecture. On check-in I was handed a schedule of the week’s programme of activities which I could attend. Talking to other visitors I quickly realised that at this centre, relaxation and a peaceful mental state do not equal lazing. The path to improving one’s health and ﬁnding deeper meaning to life, they believe, is through rigorous yoga, meditation, and regulating one’s food habits. This wasn’t going to be a walk in the park. The Isha Center aims to be inclusive and universal and it was clear to me that it offers something deep

The Dhyanalinga is a place for deep, peaceful meditation. This dome is made entirely of mud brick, without the use of metal or cement.

PHOTO COURTESY: ISHA YOGA CENTER

BY NILOUFER VENKATRAMAN

and meaningful to the over 4,000 volunteers who live there. It has thousands of visitors coming in every day from a variety of cultural, religious, and economic backgrounds. Many seeking spirituality and a healthier lifestyle come for short courses or just for a few days to acquire a yoga or meditation practice that can become part of daily life. However, because the experience that the yoga centre offers is derived from yogic culture, Shiva is considered the Adiyogi or the ﬁrst yogi. From the huge Nandi bull at the entrance, to the linga at the Dhyanalinga Yogic Shrine, and the rituals at the Linga Bhairavi shrine, the symbolism, associations, and various features at the ashram derive from what I understand as Hinduism. That said, during my three days there I didn’t hear a word about “god,” even Shiva was not spoken of as god, nor was there any talk of heaven or hell, superhuman controls, or victory over evil. Instead, what I did hear a lot of was how I could enhance the quality of my life, the perception of everything around me, and increase my consciousness of the present. THE GURU Any organization like this has a spiritual head. The guru of the Isha Center is Sadhguru, the founder, spiritual guide, and the force and voice of the organization. I attended an impromptu

Bengaluru

390 km

Isha Yoga Center

D AY S

At the ashram, bringing stillness to the mind (left) is the ultimate goal of all yoga practice; Lush greenery and a variety of stone sculptures and carvings (top right) decorate the 150-acre campus; Public spaces at the Nalanda accommodations (bottom right) include grassy courtyards, a comfortable reception area, and a large, airy central space.

darshan with him on the lawns of the centre and found that he also cracks jokes, does not hesitate to criticize devotees, and tries to give simple, matterof-fact answers to problems. At the gathering, I also encountered followers swooning, sobbing, and extending their adulation in various ways. I chose to ignore that which I found incredulous or puzzling. The fact is you don’t have to be his follower or devotee to gain from the yoga or meditation practices being taught.

WHAT TO DO There are a variety of ways one can experience what the Isha Center has to offer. Here are some of them: RETREAT PROGRAMMES Most people start their association with the centre with a four-day Inner Engineering retreat. I didn’t do it, but explored aspects that make up such a programme. Inner Engineering teaches among other things pranayam and Shambhavi Maha Mudra, which is a breathing and meditation practice to improve health and achieve internal balance. There are a variety of other programmes. For instance, I met someone who had attended the ﬁve-day Sunethra Eye programme which tackles eye problems.

PHOTO COURTESY: ISHA YOGA CENTER (YOGA & PEOPLE), NILOUFER VENKATRAMAN (STATUE)

SPIRITUAL HOLIDAY

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Daily routines involved eye exercises, eye packs, specific Ayurvedic massages, and yoga to benefit the eyes (Inner Enginnering/Sunethra Eye participants generally offer donations of `15,000-20,000). SELF EXPLORE Those like me who are unsure of what exactly they want to experience at this centre can book a room and then examine the possibilities available. For many, the day starts with a dip in the teerthakunds, the ashram’s sacred water bodies. One afternoon I changed into a robe and walked down a steep flight of stairs 30 feet underground to the large subterranean pool called the Chandrakund. The water was freezing and I only managed to stay in it longer than a few minutes because I was distracted by the lovely painted mural on the wall. At 5 a.m. one morning I saw yogis heading to the teerthakunds, but I didn’t want a second dip given how cold I had found it the first time. Instead I went directly for my yoga session where I learned the Surya Kriya, and then made my way for a meditation session and later, aum chanting. In the evening I attended a Yoga Nidra session, which was restful and calming. With no pressure to attend any particular session, I attended what I wanted to. It was comforting for me, a first-timer, to know that if I liked something I could continue to do it and learn more, if I didn’t, I was at liberty to walk away from it at any time. SURYA NAMASKAR Every yoga session I’ve ever attended has had a different version of the Surya Namaskar and the Isha Center is no different. Their unique Surya Kriya is a 21-step routine that promises to make you very fit if you practice it 1-3 times a day. I learnt it while I was at Isha, but unfortunately only followed it for about a month. A brief illness interrupted my practice and then I wasn’t disciplined about restarting. It’s definitely something I would like to get back to. TEMPLES The centre’s two temples or spiritual spaces, the Dhyanalinga Yogic Shrine and the Linga Bhairavi shrine or Devi temple couldn’t be more different from each other. Dhyanalinga Yogic Shrine is a spherical pillar-less brick dome, which is empty save for a large black linga at the centre. At the entrance is a column on which I saw the symbols of various religions of the world. It symbolizes both that this is a space of no religious affiliation, and one that welcomes people from all of them. Groups are led into the unlit, empty space where no one speaks. You don’t go there to pray or perform any ritual. That’s perhaps what appealed most to me. On one occasion a lone sitarist played a soulful tune lifting the energy in that windowless space and allowing me to be very, very still. With eyes closed in meditation it allowed me to unwind; the stillness, and giving up of stresses of everyday life was one of the highlights of my time at the centre. The more popular temple is the Linga Bhairavi, which was bustling with visitors when I visited. I spent a few minutes and exited. For me in essence it was a religious space akin to other Hindu temples and I preferred the Dhyanalinga. But others find it deeply meditative and serene. The devi at this temple is also said to fulfil wishes of devotees.

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The Ayur Rasayana wellness programme combines yoga, meditation, massages, facials, and other treatments (top); The centre runs a variety of hatha yoga programmes (bottom) ranging from one-day Surya Kriya sessions to a 21-week teacher’s training programme.

WELLNESS When I visited, a delightful curtain of red blooms hung over the entrance to the Isha Rejuvenation Center where Ayurvedic massages,

therapies, and assorted treatments for pain and specific ailments are available. There are several 3, 5, or 7-day rejuvenation programmes that visitors can enrol in. For deep analysis and treatment of specific health issues there are a variety of medicines dispensed in the form of Siddha and Ayurvedic treatments. I had a general consultation with Maa Vama, a qualified allopathic medical practitioner turned Siddha medicine advocate. She prescribed a series of changes in my diet to include at least 50 per cent raw vegetables/fruits, as well as a course of rasayam and chenduram (herb-mineral formulations) aimed at purifying and restoring internal balance. She suggested I consume a small ball each of neem and turmeric on an empty stomach with honey-laced water, as an antiseptic and cleanser every morning. Finally, she also recommended an abhyanga massage which I received that evening. It was a rather vigorous massage with two practitioners giving me a rhythmic rub-down with a large quantity of herbal oil. This massage is traditionally believed to be very useful in loosening up toxins in the body so they can be expelled.

PHOTO COURTESY: ISHA YOGA CENTER

Short Breaks |

Q TAMIL N ADU

There are two teerthakunds or cleansing pools at the ashram, the Chandrakund for women and the Suryakund for men.

Guests have several options for accommodation within the ashram. The 70 rooms at the Nalanda Conference Center are the most comfortable with spotless en suite bathrooms and basic amenities (non air-conditioned rooms from `2,500; air-conditioned rooms from `3,500, less if you join an Isha programme). With a cascading white bougainvillea at the entrance, spacious public areas, an open, airy style, extensive use of dark wood, and beautiful plants and lawns, this is a well-designed, aesthetic space. At the Nadhi and Alayam rooms you get a basic lean, functional space with twin beds and attached bathrooms. There are also suites and other accommodation for larger families/groups on campus (non-AC from `850; AC from `1,300-5,000). All room rates include two meals at the Bhiksha Hall (to book accommodation email ishastay@ishafoundation.org). Meals at the centre are a no-nonsense affair. I was introduced to a whole new way of eating. Quite simply, in this place you eat only twice a day: at 10 or 10.45 a.m. and 7 or 7.45 p.m. Most residents and visitors eat at the Bhiksha Hall. Seating is on long mats lined up on the ﬂoor and those performing the seva, or volunteering for the day come around serving salad, rice, dal, veggies, and a millet porridge. It’s south Indian fare that’s hearty and tasty. A not too spicy version is available and portions are unlimited; you can eat as much as you want. Once done, everyone washes their own stainless steel plate and glass in the very clean washing area and places them on the dish racks provided.

ISHA YOGA CENTER, TAMIL NADU ÇBengaluru

Coimbatore

Isha Yoga Center

THE VITALS The Isha Yoga Center is situated a 30 km/ 90-min drive from Coimbatore airport. Taxis from the airport to the ashram cost `1,000 one-way (ishayoga.org and ishafoundation.org).

Only Inner Engineering programme participants eat at Nalanda. On day one, I overate at the morning meal afraid perhaps that I wouldn’t last till 7 p.m. As it turned out I was ﬁne. On day two I ate normally and found I had a slight rumbling at 5 p.m. To stave off the munchies I ended up getting a fresh juice at the Pepper Vine Eatery (open 8.30 a.m. to 7.30 p.m.). This is a large gazebo area with various stalls catering to day visitors and to anyone else who needs a little sandwich, dosa, juice, or snack in between.

WHY GO? At the end of my long weekend at Isha, what I realised was not rocket science: I needed to ﬁnd time for myself, practice yoga, meditate, and eat healthy on a regular basis. All the things I knew, but had long ignored. But that’s exactly why a short break at an ashram like this is sometimes needed—to drive home simple messages and to offer direction on how change can happen. No place is for everyone and neither is Isha. It is good for those who want a spiritual retreat with or without religion. A point to note is that though it is not religiously affiliated it does have strong elements that are rooted in Hinduism. Simply put, visitors imbibe as much religion and ritual as they want. I found it easy to not engage with aspects I was not inclined toward. I came back home with the strong conviction that I ought to change the way I am living. Most importantly, it was a wake-up call to ﬁnd time for my body, mind, and overall wellbeing. JUNE 2016 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA

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PHOTO COURTESY: ISHA YOGA CENTER

STAY & EAT

Short Breaks |

STAY

AT HOME IN KUMAON BIRDS, BOOKS, AND BRISK MOUNTAIN AIR IN A QUIET CORNER OF UTTARAKHAND BY NEHA DARA

nature

relaxation

UTTARAKHAND Nainital

Î Himalaica

THE VITALS

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flowers, and bushes full of sweet smelling blooms. But it is the inviting lawn that is the centrepiece of our stay. It tempts us to spring out our littleused exercise mats, and we spend the morning doing yoga, joyfully inhaling deep lungfuls of crisp mountain air, while the Daves’ three dogs look on. Afternoon finds us in the same spot, sprawled on the grass with our books. We’re thoughtfully supplied with a plateful of papad to nibble on. In the evening, when the light begins to fade and the weather becomes cooler, we shift to the small glass atrium at the front of the house, where the Daves grow orchids and lilies, and have placed comfortable sofas for reading. The couple are excellent hosts and the hours before dinner are spent in their living room, sipping drinks and exchanging stories. We’ve brought along our own books, but put them aside in favour of some from the couple’s collection, which includes books on the region’s birds, flora, and history. The next day, Uttam accompanies us on a short trail, pointing out interesting birds and identifying their calls. We also take his recommendation and drive to Ramgarh to see the town’s pretty fruit orchards. I come away with the feeling that Himalaica is a great getaway for a family that wants to soak in the quiet of the mountains, while enjoying the warmth and comforts of home.

Getting There Himalaica is in Shyamkhet village, in Uttarakhand’s Kumaon region, 2.6 km from Bhowali. Bhowali is a convenient 305 km/ 7 hr drive northeast of Delhi. There is a daily Shatabdi to Kathgodam station, 30 km/1 hr south of Bhowali. The closest airport is at Pantnagar, 63 km/ 2 hr south.

PHOTO COURTESY: HIMALAICA

imalaica is one of the last houses in the last village on the road from Delhi to Ramgarh, in Uttarakhand’s Kumaon region. We turn a bend in the road and suddenly there it is, giving the illusion of being in a secluded spot away from the rest of Shyamkhet village. A short driveway leads to a lawn and the doublestoreyed house. The stone and wood structure with green sloping roofs looks welcoming, bathed in the warm glow of evening lamps. A wooded hillside rises up behind the house and as soon as we wake up in the morning, we head out to explore, hiking a short trail that leads up to the ridge. Being near the end of the village, Himalaica is adjacent to the forest and has quick access to some easy hikes. The homestay reﬂects the interests of its owners, Uttam and Shalini Dave, who come up from Delhi to stay here as often as they can. Both are fond of birds, so they’ve planted trees and shrubs that birds like, and set up feeders and saucers of water in the garden. Throughout the morning, as we sip endless cups of ginger tea, a ﬂeet of birds of different sizes and hues visit the spot. Over the years, Uttam has collected poems and sayings that have stayed with him, and these are now put in little frames and strewn around the house for visitors to chance upon serendipitously. In the garden I discover animalshaped planters, mountain succulents with tiny

Accommodation Himalaica has three bedrooms in the main house and two in the guest cottage. The decor is warm and convivial, making the visitor feel at home. The kitchen serves up wholesome homecooked meals including continental, Kumaoni, and Punjabi fare (www. himalaica.com; 98119 08996; `4,500 per head, full board).

Short Breaks |

STAY

OVER THE RAMPARTS FROM BLOODY BATTLES TO BLOODY MARYS: THE NEW LIFE OF AN OLD FORT BY ANJANA

heritage

romantic

Fort Tiracol

Dabolim

GOA

THE VITALS with a four-poster bed, large-screen TV, spacious bathroom with a gilded mirror and an armoire, and a balcony overlooking the sea. Tempted by the ocean, I head out for a stroll, negotiating the rocks that lead down to the bastion. Fort Tiracol and its surrounding grounds are spread over about 14 acres and, though they are open to day visitors, I see few (9 a.m. to 7 p.m.). As the sun descends into a copse of palms, I ﬁnd a spot to sit and watch a tourist scale down the walls to the red rocks at the hill’s base. The Marquis of Alorna, a viceroy of Portuguese India who stormed the fort in 1746, may have led his forces from that very approach, beating back Bhonsle’s army. The Portuguese chapel built here at that time still offers Sunday services. Walking around to the edge of a cliff, I wonder where the fort’s 12 cannons used to be. Instead, I ﬁnd an al fresco restaurant and, perched on the ramparts, a bar called The Tavern, where guests sip Bloody Marys, their minds far from the bloody history of these walls. Few know, for example, that in 1835, an entire garrison of soldiers had their heads mounted on spikes for being part of a coup to overturn the appointment of a Goan as the head of state. But now there’s only the sea view, the evening breeze, and an exceptional eggplant Parmigiana, which I enjoy on my balcony.

Accommodation The hotel has seven vintage-chic rooms, including two suites, and a family room, all with flat-screen TVs, hairdryers, kettles, and free Wi-Fi. The hotel organizes coast cruises and river fishing trips at an additional charge (77200 56800; www. forttiracol.in; doubles from `6,000 from May-July, up to `17,000 during high season). Getting There The hotel is located about 81 km/2 hr north of Goa’s Dabolim Airport (taxis `2,000 one-way). From the jetty at Keri beach, take the taxi on the free ferry across the Tiracol River (every 15-30 minutes), then drive five minutes up a narrow road to the hotel.

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s my taxi rolls aboard the ferry at Keri, Goa’s northernmost beach, I marvel at the beauty around me. Narrow stretches of golden sand line both sides of the Tiracol River, which reﬂects the bright blue of a cloudless sky. Ahead, separated by an estuary from the mainland, the stone walls, bastions, and towers of Fort Tiracol crown a grassy hill. Constructed in the 17th century by Raja Bahadur Khem Sawant Bhonsle to defend the state from invaders and pirates, the fort is now a heritage hotel and my home for the night. Close to Goa’s border with Maharashtra, Fort Tiracol was caught in a violent tug-of-war between the Portuguese and Marathas for over 300 years. It housed royalty and regiments until the mid-20th century. Now, the large wooden gates with metal spikes reveal a boutique resort set with pretty turquoise chairs and white patio tables. Within the stone walls, the plush rooms, originally barracks, open onto a courtyard. When the fort was attacked, soldiers could rush to their positions on the parapets or to the arrow slits in the turrets. Some rooms have paths leading down to a circular bastion, conceivably a watch and defence platform. Below this, rocks mark the spot where the Bhonsles anchored their sizeable ﬂeet. The rooms are named after the days of the week. I’m in Tuesday, a standard room that is anything but,

Inspire |

U.S.A.

CANADA

Los Angeles U.S.A MEXICO

CINESPIA@ HOLLYWOOD FOREVER LOS ANGELES, U.S.A.

On summer weekends, families and friends gather their folding chairs, picnic baskets, and bottles of wine, and head out to L.A.’s Hollywood Forever Cemetery, for an evening of fun. The cemetery is a Hollywood landmark, being the final resting place of legends like Rudolph Valentino and Douglas Fairbanks. It is also where the organization, Cinespia screens Hollywood classics. This year’s offerings include Singin’ in the Rain (1952) and Silence of the Lambs (1991). The screening is held at the Fairbanks Lawn, and projected on the white wall of a huge mausoleum. The venue feels like a fitting tribute to the legacy of the hundreds of film writers, directors, and actors buried on its grounds. At sunset, the lawn fills with about 4,000 people, who seat themselves on a first come, first served basis. DJs spin music to help set the mood before the show as does a photobooth decorated according to the theme of the evening’s movie. Once the projector comes to life, all is quiet and the lawn transforms into a magical setting under the stars, just like in a Hollywood movie (cinespia. org; weekend screenings 14 May-2 July; entry 6.45 p.m./ 7.15 p.m, film screening 8.30/ 9 p.m.; $16-18/`1,060-1,192). —Kareena Gianani

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IRELAND

UNITED KINGDOM

London

FRANCE

FILM4 SUMMER SCREEN AT SOMERSET HOUSE

Few film festivals in London can boast a venue as grand as the neoclassical Somerset House near the Strand, overlooking the River Thames. Between 4-17 August this year, the building will host the Film4 Summer Screen festival. Unforgettable stories of Mark Renton (Ewan McGregor) and his friends in Trainspotting (1996), and Billy Wilder’s Oscar-winning Sunset Boulevard (1950) will unfold in the courtyard. The festival screens British classics, independent American films, and Hollywood blockbusters— projected digitally or using 35mm film in full surround sound. Visitors can also catch DJs playing music before the screening, attend a series of talks by industry experts, or drop by at a film poster exhibition on the grounds. Somerset House’s current structure, built in 1780, stands on the site of a 1551 Tudor palace built by the then Duke of Somerset. Today, it is a versatile cultural hub in London. In winter, visitors happily swirl around a 9,690-square-foot ice rink built in the central courtyard (www.somersethouse.org. uk; 4-17 August; concert entry 6.30 p.m., film 9 p.m.; from £16/`1,550). —Kareena Gianani

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LONDON, ENGLAND

TRAVEL QUIZ T E S T Y O U R T R AV E L I Q

WHICH COUNTRY HAS OVER 15,000 AIRPORTS?

WHERE ON EARTH DO YOU FIND MORE SHEEP THAN PEOPLE?

WHAT DID THE CITY OF SAIGON CHANGE ITS NAME TO IN 1976?

IDENTIFY THE INDIAN STATE THAT THE TRADITIONAL MARTIAL ART OF GATKA BELONGS TO?

WHERE IS THE DOOR TO HELL, A PERPETUALLY BURNING FIRE IN A NATURAL GAS PIT?

IN WHICH ISLAND NATION ARE SEAWEED AND OCTOPUS POPULAR PIZZA TOPPINGS?

DISNEY'S MOST FAMOUS CHARACTERS ARE ON THE CURRENCY COINS OF WHICH COUNTRY?

9 WHAT LATIN AMERICAN CAPITAL WAS BUILT ON THE SITE OF THE ANCIENT AZTEC EMPIRE CAPITAL, TENOCHTITLÁN?

ANSWERS 1. U.S.A. 2. NEW ZEALAND 3. SOUTH SUDAN WHICH GAINED INDEPENDENCE FROM SUDAN IN 2011 4. HO CHI MINH CITY 5. PUNJAB 6. JAPAN 7. TURKMENISTAN 8. NIUE IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC 9. MEXICO CITY

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JORG HACKEMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK (AIRPORT), AMY K CASILLAS/SHUTTERSTOCK (SHEEP), PATRICE6000/SHUTTERSTOCK (FLAG), MATYAS REHAK/ SHUTTERSTOCK (STATUE), STEPHEN CHUNG/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (PERFORMER), CSP_MAXXIMMM/FOTOSEARCH LBRF/DINODIA (PIZZA), LOCKENES/ SHUTTERSTOCK (FIRE PIT), PHOTO COURTESY: WWW.APMEX.COM (COIN), JAVIER GARCIA/SHUTTERSTOCK (MUSICIAN)

NAME THE YOUNGEST COUNTRY IN THE WORLD?