PASSPORT Magazine Summer Issue by passportmedia

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TRAVEL • CULTURE • STYLE • ADVENTURE • ROMANCE

PASSPORT SEE THE USA! ARIZONA • HOUSTON • CHICAGO • BOSTON • NEWPORT • THE CATSKILLS • LONG BEACH & MORE

DISPLAY UNTIL 9/21/20 $7.99 US $9.99 CDN

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Here in Key West, anything goes. We celebrate diversity and pride 365 days a year. In fact, with everything from gay tours, clothing optional resorts and risquĂŠ cabaret to an eclectic art scene and abundant natural wonders, you might say we were out before it was in. f la-keys.com/gaykeywest 305.294.4603

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Love conquers all.

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PASSPORT

SUMMER 2020 vol 19 issue 154

FEATURES

EAT. DRINK. LOVE. A CULINARY TOUR OF VIRGINIA

In the hands of innovative chefs, bakers, vintners, brewers, and distillers, Virginia’s yearround harvest inspires creative, often daring bites and beverages that attract national and global acclaim.

NATURE & NURTURE IN THE CATSKILLS

The Catskills, two hours north of New York City, is a magnet to gay travelers who pack weekend bags and boots for bucolic adventures in the wild.

THE CHAMPLAIN ISLANDS OF VERMONT

SEASIDE SPLENDOR & SIMPLE PLEASURES: NEWPORT RHODE ISLAND

Join us for a trip to Newport, Rhode Island, a coastal New England town with a big heart, great food, intriguing history, and magnificent seaside setting.

ASHEVILLE AND THE GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS

Asheville is a warm, creative, artsy, spiritual and rejuvenating city with so much to offer that it would take weeks, maybe months, to explore it all.

BUSINESS CLASS

August 2020 is the launch of A Saint From Texas, Edmund White’s 29th book. White is the undisputed “silverdaddy” of gay literature. He unabashedly shares with his readers his deepest and often darkest thoughts about life and sex. He is also the co-author of The Joy Of Gay Sex. Also in this issue, get up close and personal with the one and only Lea Delaria, stand-up comic, Broadway star, jazz singer, and nightclub owner/restaurateur.

DEPARTMENTS PASSPORT CONCIERGE

Jennie Kell at the Sanctuary Camelback Mountain Resort and Spa is our insider guide to the beautiful Valley of the Sun area of Phoenix/Scottsdale, Arizona.

GLOBETROTTING: LONG BEACH 24

WHAT’S NEW IN…HOUSTON

TRAVEL BOUND

Get ready to experience the best things to see, do and eat in this diverse and progressive city.

VIP LOUNGE

Star Trek: Discovery star Wilson Cruz is a trailblazer in LGBTQ representation on TV, stage and screen, and that’s just part of his amazing career.

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN… COLUMBUS

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Long Beach just might be the West Coast’s new queer capital. Yes, it’s a bold claim, but there’s evidence to prove it.

WORLD EATS CHICAGO

Appetites run big in Chicago. So expect hearty meals as well as sophisticated dining from Innovative chefs.

Passport’s guide to exciting new products.

If you truly want to enjoy the best of Ohio, head to Columbus and let the adventures begin!

TRAVELING GOURMET

ESCAPE PLAN: BOSTON

DREAMSCAPE

Great reads for the savvy traveler.

SPECIAL EFFECTS

Our new column is your key to getting the

most out of a destination, and Boston is a great place to start.

Great vegan and vegetarian restaurants.

Four Seasons Resort O’ahu at Ko Olina.

ON THE COVER: hikers & photography The Hiking Husbands @thehikinghusbands location Vermilion Cliffs National Monument at The Wave in Northern Arizona

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THERE’S LOTS TO LOVE ABOUT LOUISVILLE

When you visit Louisville, you’ll discover a thriving arts and culture community, an eclectic nightlife – and one of America’s hottest local restaurant scenes. But the best thing about the city is how everyone you meet will make you feel at home. If that doesn’t warm your spirit, well, there’s plenty of Bourbon. Plan your getaway now at GoToLouisville.com

Louisville photographer: @crystallludwickphoto | #louisvillelove | #bourboncity

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editorial “Injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere.” —Martin Luther King Jr.

ne of the most important things we learned from the coronavirus pandemic is that when we work together we are capable of achieving amazing results. Every nation on Earth saw the threat to life from Covid-19 and decided to do something about it.

Millions of lives may have been saved because people sacrificed so much to help others. Now, as we try to recover from the economic ravages of fighting this disease, we must apply the lessons we have learned in order to protect the physical, mental, and economic health of people everywhere. We must immediately pass laws protecting people from being evicted from their homes because they are unable to pay their rent as a result of the coronavirus. This needs to be put in place and enforced until a viable economic recovery takes place. As we move forward, we also need to acknowledge the fact that governments based on inequality have no place in our world. We must eradicate poverty, injustice, and corruption just as quickly as any other disease that threatens our lives. The people, policies, and behavior that promoted poverty, racism, and climate change must be replaced internationally. Those who refuse to do so, must be held accountable. People of every race, age, and economic status took to the streets recently and said “enough is enough.” Instead of “the new normal,” we need to work for a “New Equality” where everyone truly shares in the wealth and abundance of the world equally. Oppression of one group by another must end. Police brutality has no place in our society. Poverty and homelessness have no place in our society. To achieve this New Equality, we must act immediately to ensure the following: a Guaranteed

Minimum Income for everyone; Universal Health Care; Affordable Housing for All; and 100% Renewable Energy worldwide within 5 years. We came together to protect the world from the coronavirus pandemic. We must continue to come together to protect each other and our beautiful planet from the failed policies that man has created and perpetuated for far too long. —Robert Adams

For daily updates about what’s happening in our world be sure to visit passportmagazine.com/blog You can also follow us on Facebook and at twitter.com/passportmag

PASSPORT I SUMMER 2020

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SUMMER 2020, ISSUE 154 Publisher DON TUTHILL

Editorial Director ROBERT ADAMS

Production/Design Manager DAN BOCCHINO

Assistant Editor WALTER BURNS

Web Associate PETER PARKER

Food and Wine Editor RICH RUBIN

Creative Director, Fashion CATHY TIMBERLAKE

Contributing Editors MARK CHESNUT JIM GLADSTONE KEITH LANGSTON

Contributing Writers ALLISTER CHANG KELSY CHAUVIN LAWRENCE FERBER STUART HAGGAS JASON HEIDEMANN JEFF HEILMAN JIMMY IM H. LUIZ MARTINEZ RICHARD NAHEM MARLENE FANTA SHYER DUANE WELLS MATTHEW WEXLER ARTHUR WOOTEN

Contributing Photographers DENNIS DEAN CHRISTOPHER PERRY JOHN LAU IAN ROBERT KNIGHT

Marketing Coordinator ELBERT GIRON

212-594-6520 WWW.PASSPORTMAGAZINE.COM

To subscribe, call toll free:

1-888-447-7287 MONDAY–FRIDAY, 8:30AM–4:30PM PST PASSPORT Magazine is a registered trademark of Q Communications, Inc. PASSPORT is published by Q Communications, Inc., 247 West 35th St., 12th Floor, New York, NY 10001. Published six times per year, annual subscription rate is $24.95 in the U.S.; Entire contents copyright ©2020 by Q Communications, Inc. ISSN 1531-0213. All rights reserved. No material may be reprinted or reproduced without written permission from the publisher. POSTMASTER: send address changes to: subscriptions@passportmagazine.com. Publication of the name or photograph of any individual or organization in articles or advertising in PASSPORT is not to be construed as any indication of the sexual orientation of such person or organization. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. 8

PASSPORT | SUMMER 2020

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book bbo oook now! n w! w! BARCELONA Q MADRID Q BERLIN BER RLIN N Q MASPA ALO OMAS Q IBIZA A Q MIAMI Q SAN SEBASTIÁN Futur e openings: V ALENCIA, LENCIA, MADEIRA, L AD BILBAO AO & LA HABANA

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passportconcierge JENNIE KELL SANCTUARY CAMELBACK MOUNTAIN RESORT AND SPA PARADISE VALLEY, ARIZONA by Keith Langston he Phoenix/Scottsdale region of Arizona, often referred to as the Valley of the Sun, is a booming hotspot of art, culture, cuisine, and outdoor recreation. So, it’s no wonder why concierge Jennie Kell loves working here so much. Her hospitality career began back in 2002, and since then she’s worked at The Sheraton, The Four Seasons, and currently at the luxurious Sanctuary Camelback Mountain Resort and Spa (5700 East McDonald Drive, Paradise Valley. Tel: 855-245-2051. www.sanctuaryoncamelback.com). The resort is nestled in the foothills of Camelback Mountain, giving you panoramic views of the mountains, palm trees, and those famous desert sunsets. Kell says that in addition to the gorgeous views, “I adore working at Sanctuary. The journey and mantra here is to “seek opportunities to create memories” and “promise to care enough to do it well. This is obvious throughout every aspect of the resort. Sanctuary allows me to be myself while taking care of our guest’s every need in a luxurious five-star environment.” From the award-winning restaurants, to the desert-inspired spa, Kell share with us everything we need to know about the Sanctuary Resort and Spa, while also giving us the inside scoop to the best places to eat, drink, and play in the Valley of the Sun.

Beau McMillan, elements offers farm fresh American fare with Asian accents, plus dynamic views of the sunset and an intimate ambience with excellent service. Jade Bar is adjacent to the restaurant and is perfect for pre and post-dinner cocktails. Live music is offered in the bar on Friday and Saturday evenings and Sunday afternoon. It’s a favorite for locals and resort guests.

Where are the coolest places to go for cocktails? One of the absolute best places to go is AZ 88 (7353 E Scottsdale Mall, Tel: 480-9945576. www.AZ88.com) in Old Town Scottsdale. It’s a trendy contemporary bar and eatery with award winning cocktails and artistic ambience, weekly DJ, and a large patio that’s open until 1:30 A.M. Their Summer Solstice martini is a delicious mix of berries and citrus. Lustre Rooftop Bar (2 E.

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Jefferson St, Tel: 602-258-0231. www.lustrerooftopbar.com) at the Hotel Palomar, in the heart of downtown Phoenix is a chic bar serving craft cocktails and organic bites in a poolside set-up with wonderful city views. You must order their Your My Bees Knees cocktail; it’s rosemary vodka, lavenderinfused honey, with fresh lemon juice. The best part is that you get to drink the cocktail straight out of a honey bear! What are the best restaurants for a romantic dinner in the city? Café Monarch (6939 E 1st Ave, Tel: 480970-7682. www.cafemonarch.com) in Old Town Scottsdale has been named #3 in North America for fine dining. It’s nestled inside a charming historic building offering an Americana prix fixe menu with wine parings from their sommelier. elements (www.sanctuaryoncamelback.com/dining/elements/) at Sanctuary On Camelback Mountain Resort & Spa is also a must-visit. Helmed by celebrity Food Network Chef

Who serves the greatest weekend brunch in town? One of my favorites is Olive & Ivy (7135 E Camelback Rd, Tel: 480-751-2200. www.oliveandivyrestaurant.com), in Old Town Scottsdale. It’s Mediterranean with a California influence. They have these wonderful flatbreads that are topped with house made sausage, grilled onions, and home fires. It’s like a breakfast pizza. Also, they have the most comfortable patio in town! There’s also Mission (3815 N Brown Ave, Tel: 480-6365005. www.themissionaz.com) in Old Town Scottsdale. It’s Modern Latin cuisine that’s both fun and down-to-earth (like street tacos), but also upscale and unique (like roasted pork shoulder with pineapple and habanero glaze.) What are the hottest shows in town, and how do I get tickets? Ballet Arizona (www.balletaz.org) does a wonderful set of shows throughout the year at the Orpheum Theater. Like most ballet companies, their annual rendition of The Nutcracker is a highlight of the year, and everyone dresses up for the event. The Orpheum Theater (203 W Adams St, Tel: 602-262-6225. www.americantheatreguild.com/phoenix) also hosts Broadway shows, concerts, stand-up comedians, and more. It’s a gorgeous theater that was originally built in the 1920s. Inside it is opulent and stunning. There’s something going on at the Orpheum every single week of the entire year.

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passportconcierge What museums are a must see for visitors? The Heard (2301 N. Central Ave. Tel: 602252-8840. www.heard.org) museum is famous around the world for being one of the best places to discover Native American culture. It’s part art museum, part natural history museum, and part anthropology museum. They also have one of the most gorgeous museum gift shops ever. It’s a great way to take a piece of Native American heritage home with you. Similarly, there’s Western Spirit: Scottsdale’s Museum of the West (3830 N Marshall Way, Tel: 480-686-9539. www.scottsdalemuseumwest.org), which is affiliated with the Smithsonian. It displays rotating and ongoing exhibitions of artworks and historical artifacts of the American West. It showcases both Native American cultures, as well as frontier life during America’s westward expansion. I’m probably biased because I live here, but the history of the West is so fascinating, and unlike anything else on earth. Which guided tours do you recommend most often to your guests? For the adventurous, there’s Stellar Adventures (3102 South Roosevelt Street, Tel: 602-402-0584. www.stellaradventures.com). They provide guided Hummer, UTV, and ATV excursions in the Tonto National Forest, as well as sunset rides in the Superstition Mountains, vineyard ATV tours, and even “Land and Lake” excursions. If you’re not afraid of getting a little dirty and a little wet, it’s an exciting day trip! For something a little more romantic (but equally thrilling in my opinion) there’s Hot Air Expeditions (702 W. Deer Valley Dr. Tel: 480502-6999. www.hotairexpeditions.com). Enjoy a magic carpet ride above the Sonoran Desert as the sun rises. It’s an experience to remember. Upon landing, you can even enjoy a Champagne breakfast with patisserie favorites from a local French restaurant. Where can you go to get the best views of the city? Oh, there are so many because of the mountains! Definitely Camelback Mountain for the adventurous. Echo Canyon and Cholla Trail are the most hiked trails in the Valley of the Sun. They are quite strenuous and not for the faint hearted, but the reward at the summit is breathtaking! There’s also Papago Park (625 N Galvin Pkwy). The “Hole in the Rock” hike is easy and is a great way to watch the sunset over the city of Phoenix if

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you hike it in the evening. If you don’t want to hike, reserve a table for dinner at the famous Wrigley Mansion (2501 E Telawa Trail, Tel: 602-955-4079. www.wrigleymansion.com). It’s a historic 1930’s home nestled on a hillside that is now a restaurant with the best 360-degree views in Phoenix Where are the best places to workout? Here at Sanctuary (www.sanctuaryoncamelback.com/spa-fitness/fitness/), we have a wonderful spa and health club for resort guests. Complete with a gym, infinity pool, and tennis courts, it’s got everything you could need. We also offer a few really exciting fitness classes like standup paddleboard yoga and even aerial yoga!

Nearby there’s also Camelback Village Racquet & Health Club (4444 E C a m e l b a c k R d , Te l : 6 0 2 - 8 4 0 - 6 4 1 2 . www.villageclubs.com). It’s huge and has everything you could image, like CrossFit, basketball courts, squash courts, a pool, and even fencing. It’s a massive complex that’s great for finding everything you need, but I personally like the tranquility and rejuvenating aspect that our gym as Sanctuary has. If someone is looking for a full-service spa, where do you send them? For the true Arizona spa experience, our Spa at Sanctuary (www.sanctuaryoncamelback.com/spa-fitness/spa-treatments/) is a must. We use local minerals and plants to bring

Jade Bar Lounge at Sanctuary

Sanctuary Infinity Pool

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passportconcierge in the desert, there’s Joe’s New York Pizza (7321 E, Shoeman Lane, Tel: 480-947-5637. www.joespizzascottsdale.com) in Scottsdale, which is open until 3:30 A.M. every day. Despite being late night fare, they actually offer authentic and delicious food using the freshest ingredients they can find. Aside from pizza, you can find salads, burgers, gyros, pasta, calzone rolls and even Stromboli. They also do a really good delivery and takeout business, so if you’re a bit too tipsy to head out, order it in!

Photo: Gregory E. Clifford

Hole-in-the-Rock Natural Geological Formation

the beauty of the desert into the spa. The wild lime blossom massage is a personal favorite, whereas the Sanctuary salt stone treatment is what we’re known for. Warm blocks of salt that have been hand carved are used to refresh the skin, remove toxins, and reduce inflammation. Another wonderful spa is also at a resort: Joya Spa (4949 E Lincoln Dr. Tel: (480) 627-3020. www.omnihotels.com/hotels/scottsdalemontelucia/spa) at the Omni Scottsdale. They’re known for their rituals treatments, like the Moroccan orange blossom ritual and the hammam experience, where you enter a warm hammam room and are rubbed with a black herbal soap and a green tea scrub. Designer labels for less: do you have any suggestions for the smart shopper? For the ladies, there’s My Sister’s Closet (www.mysisterscloset.com), which has a location in both Phoenix and Scottsdale. It’s a wonderful consignment shop where you can regularly find big names like Michael Kors, Diane Von Furstenberg, and Chanel, all at great prices. For the men, the owners of My Sister’s Closet also run a men’s consignment shop called Well Suited (www.shopwellsuited.com). Here, you’ll find the best names in menswear, like Hugo Boss, Burberry, and Armani. What are the best gay/lesbian bars in the city? BS West (7125 E 5th Ave Rear, Tel: 480-9459028. www.bswest.com), in Old Town Scottsdale, calls itself Arizona’s best gay bar. Every night, they have a rotating event, from

PASSPORT I SUMMER 2020

DJs, to drag shows, to dance parties. It’s such a fun place to mingle until the sun comes up. For a more “relaxed” setting, check out Charlie’s Phoenix (727 W Camelback Rd. Tel: 602-265-0224. www.charliesphoenix.com). Charlie’s isn’t sleepy by any means, but it’s much more down-to-earth. When you want to go out, hear live music, and dance with friends, but you’re not in the mood to get dressed up, Charlie’s is the place to go. It’s a come-as-you-are atmosphere, which makes going there a no-hassle night out. What are the most popular gay dance clubs? The Rock (4129 N 7th Ave, Tel: 602-2488559. www.therockdmphoenix.com) in Phoenix is truly one a kind. The club has drag nights, bears nights, leather nights, and more. But what makes it so interesting is that, on most nights, you’ll find people from every crowd mixing and mingling, and dancing to the music. I think it’s one of those special places that you don’t find in every town, so we’re lucky to have The Rock here in Phoenix. If you are looking for a traditional club experience, that would be Stacy’s @ Melrose (4343 N 7th Ave. Tel: 602-2641700. www.stacysatmelrose.com). Here, you’ll find the disco balls, neon lights, and DJ booths that keep partygoers dancing until all hours. The best part of Stacy’s is their daily happy hour. Get there before the crowd and be rewarded with some cheap drinks! Where can someone go at 3 A.M. for a good meal? If you’re in the mood for New York style pizza

What is the iconic tourist souvenir, and where will we find it? Cosanti (6433 E Doubletree Ranch Rd, Tel: 480-948-6145. www.cosanti.com), in Scottsdale, sells absolutely fabulous handmade windchimes, bells, planters, and even jewelry. They’re located at an Arizona Historic Site designed by world-renowned architect Paolo Soleri. At Cosanti, you can browse their massive selection, roam the grounds, and visit the on-site foundry to see the bells being poured. Another favorite, as I mentioned before, is the gift shop at the Heard museum. The tribes of the Southwest have such a unique design-style, it’s truly a gift worth cherishing forever. Please finish this sentence: Don’t leave the city without… Having a drink at Rusty Spur Saloon (7245 E Main St. Tel: 480-425-7787. www.rustyspursaloon.com) in Old Town Scottsdale; it’s a destination! Many celebrities have walked through its swinging doors in the 60 years since it first opened. It used to be Farmers Bank of Scottsdale, but now the vaults are full of liquor! Two-step to country music all day! Getting a sugar rush at Sugar Bowl Ice Cream Parlor (4005 N Scottsdale Rd, Tel: 480-946-0051. www.sugarbowlscottsdale.com) in Old Town Scottsdale; Bubblegum Pink has been their theme since 1958! Old-fashioned favorites like Butter Pecan and Rocky Road take you back to yesteryear, but don’t stop there! There’s also floats, sundaes, shakes, malts, and more. Taking a day trip to Sedona (www.visitsedona.com), which is often voted in the Top 20 most beautiful destination in North America. The sight of the Red Rocks is breathtaking, and the entire area is said to buzz with a metaphysical ambience and is considered a sacred place because of the energy vortexes that run through the region.

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what’snew in... HOUSTON, TEXAS by Lawrence Ferber

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Photo: Trong Nguyen

leather bar isn’t the first venue I’d expect to serve as classroom for a gay history lesson, but that’s exactly how they roll in Houston, Texas. Despite its world-class Museum District, the Eagle Houston (611 Hyde Park Blvd. Tel: (713) 523-2473. eaglehouston.com), in the city’s nearby, leafy “gayborhood” of Montrose, is an integral part of The Bayou City’s LGBTQ timeline and as well as a still buzzing, multilevel drinking and dancing destination. In the Eagle’s second floor bar space, LGBTQ historian J.D. Doyle has assembled a small group of visiting queer journalists who look above at an illustrated timeline that stretches from one end to the other, marked by national and Houston-specific milestones, starting with the 1950s formation of the Mattachine Society and 1969’s Stonewall Riots. Also covered that evening was the 1991 gay bashing of local Paul Broussard whose murder led to a high-profile case, protests, and conviction, which the 2015 documentary The Guy With The Knife (www.theguywiththeknife.com) revisits. The lesson concludes with the 2010 win of the Mayor’s office by openly lesbian candidate Annise Parker who served three terms until 2016, and the huge nationwide success of Marriage Equality in 2015. On the wall opposite the timeline, one of gay artist Scott Swoveland’s famed murals depicts a scene from Mary’s, a legendary Houston bar that between 1970 and 2009 served as an invaluable social, organizing, and resource hub, especially during the worst years of the AIDS crisis. Other areas of the Eagle bear collages of vintage Houston LGBTQ newspaper and magazine covers, content, and advertisements (some for rather seedy, long since shuttered bars), which is also the handiwork of Doyle: check out his website, www.houstonlgbthistory.org, for a near exhaustive collection of timelines and archival material including photos and video. That night I return to the Eagle for a full immersion in Houston’s LGBTQ present, with a bar crawl and performance by one of the area’s most beloved, impossible-to-miss drag personalities, Blackberri (www.insta-

gram.com/theblackberri). The alter-ego of Louisiana native Darius Vallier, Blackberri numbers among the small but noteworthy (and international) population of bearded drag queens which includes Eurovision winner Conchita Wurst, Berlin’s Bambi Mercury, Montreal’s Anaconda La Sabrosa, and Portland’s Diana Fire. “I love that Houston has so many opportunities for entertainers to express their art in any form,” Vallier tells me. He describes Blackberri as “a Disney Villain with the heart of gold,” and created the character in 2016 for a 10-week local drag race competition. “Houston is the perfect melting pot of all different styles of drag,” Vallier opines. “Dallas is know for pageant drag, which is beautiful, and Austin for alternative drag, which is artistic, but here you can go to a show and see an AFAB (assigned female at birth, but possibly tran or nonbinary-identified) performer, a bearded queen, a national titleholding queen, and a goth queen all at the same bar in the same cast. You never know what you’re going to get, which makes Houston so special.” Indeed, diversity and progressiveness is key to Houston’s appeal for me, and likely a pleasant surprise to the first time visitor. To get the scoop on the latest LGBTQ news and scene

happenings (and drag shows), check out the 26-year-old, monthly OutSmart Magazine (www.outsmartmagazine.com) and its constantly updated website, as well as website My Gay Houston (www.mygayhouston.com), from the city’s official tourism office, Visit Houston (www.visithoustontexas.com). Meanwhile, be sure to consider visiting during annual events Houston Pride (www.pridehouston.org), which is scheduled to take place in the fall of 2020 (specific dates TBA), the African-American and Latino Houston Splash (www.houstonsplash.com), set to celebrate its 21st Anniversary in late April 2021, LGBTQ film festival, QFest (www.q-fest.com), and parties thrown by community fundraising entity Bunnies On the Bayou (www.bunniesonthebayou.org).

arrive in Houston during the pretty darned gay (in more than one respect) grand opening weekend for downtown’s newest hotel, the 354-room C. Baldwin (400 Dallas St. Tel: (713) 759-0202. (www.hilton.com/en/hotels/ houcuqq-c-baldwin), where disco diva Gloria Gaynor, of “I Will Survive” fame, headlines the party’s entertainment. Contemporary and chic, with nods to local history (the name references Charlotte Baldwin Allen, a.k.a. the Mother of Houston), a super cool lobby lounge

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what’snew in... Manready Mercantile takes a masculine, progressive approach towards the apothecary concept and has taken off in a big way. The owner, Travis S. Weaver, is a passionate, philanthropic, and extremely LGBTQfriendly native Texan from humble beginnings. I shared a deep, richly informative conversation over dinner with him at the home of gay real estate power broker and Mayoral hopeful Bill Baldwin and Baldwin’s partner (and fantastic chef) creative fashion director Fady Armanious. While sipping an Old Fashioned at Manready you can craft scented soy candles (in a whiskey glass) with scents that are the antithesis to flowery, like cedar, tobacco, sandalwood, juniper, and teak. The clothing selections and other goods are superbly curated, and it’s a must, especially when combined with a couple of hours’ strolling, shopping, and dining in the very Houston Heights’ district. The Museum District has seen updating in the form of a 2019, $34 million expansion and renovation of its 24-year-old, now 57,000 square foot Holocaust Museum Houston (5401 Caroline. Tel: (713) 942-8000. hmh.org). And in Montrole, a few shuttered LGBTQ spaces have been repurposed as LGBTQ-friendly businesses recently, notably a location of popular Montrose wine bar chain Postino (805 Pacific St. Tel: (713) 3886767. www.postinowinecafe.com), which formerly housed Houston gay bar Montrose Mining Company between 1978-2016 (memorabilia from that establishment and era occupies a wall).

ood scene-wise, urban food halls have caught on in Houson in a big way. Opened in August 2019 and located in the Bank of America Tower, the 35,000 square foot Understory (800 Capitol St. www.understoryhouston.com) comprises up to eight vendors and dining experiences, which at the time of my visit include SeaSide Poke, Mama Ninfa’s Tacos y Tortas, Filipinoinspired burger spot Flip N’ Patties, and craft java purveyors Boomtown Coffee. Another summer 2019 newcomer, the 9,000 square foot Bravery Chef Hall (409 Travis St. Tel: (713) 909-0691. www.braverychefhall.com) is dedicated to outstanding Houston chefs and their concepts: my epic, delicious tasting dinner included dishes from visually impared, insanely talented Masterchef winner Christine Ha’s Vietnamese gastropub The Blind Goat; Kokoro’s superb sashimi and sushi; miraculously

light yet scrumptious Roman-style pizza by Ben McPherson’s BOH (the secret is a protein-heavy, low-gluten flour); and James Beard Award semifinalist Richard Knight’s butter chicken from his American-dinerwith-a-twist, Atlas. Come evening, it was back to Montrose for a Friday night bar and club crawl, which included Tony’s Corner Pocket (817 W. Dallas St. Tel: (713) 571-7870. www.facebook. c o m / p a g e s / To n y s - C o r n e r - P o c k et/252715648741822), which Lady Gaga once graced with her presence; friendly piano bar and drag queen showcase Michael’s Outpost (1419 Richmond Ave. Tel: (713) 5208446. www.facebook.com/michaelsoutpost); and that national standby, Hamburger Mary’s (2409 Grant St. Tel: (713) 677-0674. www.hamburgermarys.com/houston) for a little Blackberri action (she absolutely raked in the tips). Those seeking late night dancing should definitely swing by Numbers Nightclub (300 Westheimer Rd. Tel: (713) 521-1121. www.facebook.com/numbersnightclub), which is open until 3:30 A.M. When visiting, also try to catch violinplaying Latinx drag personality, Angelina DM Trailz (www.instagram.com/iamqueenangelina), in action. And Vallier adds: “If you’re a fan of alternative drag, be sure to check out Guava Lamp’s (570 Waugh Dr. Tel: (713) 524-3359. www.guavalamphouston.com) biweekly ‘Smoke Break,’ an amazing artistic experience, and JR’s (808 Pacific. Tel: (713) 5212519. www.jrsbarandgrill.com) ‘Millennial Dolls’ which is every Wednesday night at 11 P.M. with some of Houston's rising stars.” See you on RuPaul’s Drag Race soon, we hope, Houston squirrel friends!. Blackberri

ASOV Photography by Angelo Ortiz Vela

with a solar system-esque chandelier, the Rosalie Italian Soul restaurant from Top Chef Masters’ Chris Consetino, and guestroom views of Houston’s sprawl, the C. Baldwin is also convenient to Houston’s extensive underground tunnel system (approx. seven miles’ worth). I’m also within walking distance to the George R. Brown Convention Center, where Houston’s Art Basel equivalent, Texas Contemporary (www.txcontemporary.com), kicks off during my stay; 2020’s edition is scheduled for October 8-11. Houston’s own art gallery scene is prolific, with several gay-owned spaces worth stopping by, including David Shelton Gallery (4411 Montrose Blvd, Suite B. Tel: (713) 3937319. www.davidsheltongallery.com), Hiram Butler Gallery (4520 Blossom St. Tel: (713) 863-7097. www.hirambutler.com), and Jumper Maybach Fine Art Boutique (1131 Uptown Park Blvd. #4. Tel: (832) 523-4249. www.jumpermaybach.com), which showcases and sells work and goods by its namesake clown-faced artist. The Corpus Christiborn Maybach, real name Ben Workman, funnels his queerness and messages of empowerment into his creations, and was the subject of a 2016 documentary, The Jumper Maybach Story. I discovered a trove of LGBTQ merchandise, including books and really adorable gift cards, at the freestanding store for 30-acre, multi-space art exhibition complex The Menil Collection (1533 Sul Ross St. Tel: (713) 5259400. www.menil.org), and a cornucopia of fantastically cool, witty, and subversive home goods, apparel, accessories and souvenirs about five blocks north at Space Montrose (1706 Westheimer Rd. Tel: (832) 649-5743. www.spacemontrose.com), where 70-percent of its stock is sourced from Texas-based entrepreneurs. Sassy thrift shoppers are in for a treat, since several incredibly curated vintage shops are situated just across the street, notably Pavement (1657 Westheimer Rd. Tel: (713) 528-5500. www.pavementhouston.com), where a Spice Girls concert T-shirt absolutely called my name. Local, funky and hipster-friendly goods also reign at The Whimsy Artisan Boutique (1802 Yale St. Tel: (281) 773-1295. www.thewhimsyartisan.com), and one can easily spend a couple of hours at the six-year-old, two-floor, distinctly Houston Manready Mercantile (321 W. 19th St. Tel: (713) 861-6618. www.manready.com). Located in the leafy, historic and residential Houston Heights district, which hosts a First Saturday Arts Market,

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viplounge WILSON CRUZ

Visible features so many incredible clips from TV over the decades, including truly obscure, forgotten ones. What was the craziest thing the research team unearthed? On a personal level, I knew I was the first gay teen on prime time TV, but I didn’t know I was the first openly gay actor to play an openly gay series regular on TV. I was like, ‘really, it took until 1994 for that to happen?’ That was surprising. And that the word “homosexual” was first spoken on TV during the 1954 Army-McCarthy hearings. That was new information to me.

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Photo: David Miller

tar Trek: Discovery star Wilson Cruz is a trailblazer in LGBTQ representation on TV, stage and screen, and that’s just part of his amazing career. Having made his first splash in pop culture as gay high school student Rickie Vasquez in the 1990s TV show My So-Called Life (which also launched the careers of Claire Danes and Jared Leto), the Brooklyn-raised, Puerto Rican actor’s career milestones include playing Angel in RENT on Broadway, roles in the TV series Ally McBeal, The West Wing, Grey’s Anatomy, and now CBS All Access’ Star Trek: Discovery as Dr. Hugh Culber, who, along with co-star Anthony Rapp’s Lt. Paul Stamets, represent the series’ first gay couple. Cruz has also lent his talents to Hollywood features (the 2000 sci-fi thriller Supernova) and queer Indies alike, notably 2017’s AIDS survivor drama After Louie with Alan Cumming; Margaret Cho’s zany 2005 romp Bam Bam and Celeste; 2003’s real-life inspired Party Monster as the victim of homicidal NYC club kid Michael Alig; and 2019’s Trapped: The Alex Cooper Story, based on Cooper’s memoir about her horrific experience as a teen forced into a conversion therapy program. During his interview with Passport, Cruz proved smart, witty, and wickedly funny as he talked about his career, travel, and recent move into producing with the extraordinary Apple TV+ series Visible, which traces the history of LGBTQ representation on American television with movers and shakers including Ellen DeGeneres, Billy Porter, Lena Waithe, Tim Gunn, and fellow exec producer Wanda Sykes.

Did anything in Visible provoke a flood of memories for you? Yes, so many things. When watching the clips, I remembered seeing the 1985 TV movie about AIDS, An Early Frost, with my mother…and [having] a very awkward feeling. Me assuming she knew I was gay, and that she probably was thinking, ‘this is going to happen to my son.’ Those were the messages in the media, right? These people are perverts and disgusting and this disease is killing all the right people. But this was the first time we saw a sympathetic person living with HIV, and to sit on the couch with my mother there was a tension in the air, and at the same time I was thinking, my god, can this man [star Aidan Quinn] be any more beautiful? I was a teenage boy! Has there ever been talk of a follow up series or movie to My So-Called Life? Almost the entire cast did a reunion via Zoom in midApril, and we’ve seen Will & Grace and The LWord return in recent years. Since the moment we stopped airing there has been a call for some reboot or another. And I’ve been on record that if that was ever an opportunity I would happily revisit it. I think it comes down to whether Claire Danes wants

to, because we can’t do it without her. And we have an Oscar winner [Jared Leto] in our cast now, so I’m sure we’d have to work around that schedule. Where do you think your character, Rickie, would be today? Oh, I think Rickie Vasquez is at the height of his fashion designer career living the most fantastic gay life in NYC, looking out the window of his Soho apartment. I picture a world in which Rayanne and Angela come to the debut of his fall line in NYC. He has truly risen to the occasion. What’s the best thing about having fellow RENT alum Anthony Rapp as an onscreen husband in Discovery? That you also get a lighting apparatus. He’s very bright! One of the whitest people I know, so they can actually bounce some light off him and light me better. I tease. The best thing about working with Anthony, and this is the honest to goodness truth, is in TV you work really fast and have to hit the ground running. And to play the first gay couple in a Star Trek TV series, you would hope these people have some chemistry and can really sell the fact they’re in a long-term relationship. We didn’t have to try hard to pretend to love each other and

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viplounge we’ve known each other for so long that made it so much easier. We brought our own history to these roles, and it’s the easiest job I ever had. He’s a brilliant listener and I trust him implicitly. Although I know you can’t really share any details, what can you tell us about Star Trek: Discovery season three and Dr. Hugh Culber’s arc? We just finished principal photography, so it’s done and they’re putting it together. I know it will be out later this year and that’s all I know. What’s the coolest thing about the Discovery spacecraft set? Do any of those cool gadgets actually do something? No, none of those gadgets do anything. (laughs) I have to be honest! But the set is so immersive. I remember my first day, you can really get lost in those corridors, so you really do feel like you’re on a frickin’ starship in the middle of space. It encloses you. So the suspension of disbelief is a lot easier. Have you read any “interesting” Discovery erotic fanfic, or “shipping” as it’s known these days? Uh no. (laughs) I’ve avoided it. Mainly because from what I’ve seen it can be really explicit, so I’m thinking I’ll let you all have that and enjoy it in your corner. My favorite ship fanfic, though, is the Captain Pike-Spock stuff. It is hilarious, and it’s more like fan art than text. Interesting stuff there.

Photo: Michael Gibson/CBS

You’ve been to outer space in a few projects now. Would you actually like to do an interstellar trip? Oh, I absolutely would, but I would let 100 people

do it before me just to make sure it’s safe. In the sci-fi movie Supernova, your character dies, which was so sad, and I noticed you actually get killed off in a number of movies. Do you like dying? I do die a lot. I asked the director Walter Hill, ‘why do I keep getting hired to get killed off?’ And he said, ‘people like you, so they like to see you die! There’s a real emotional punch when someone like you dies.’ Space aside, what’s the most far flung place you’ve traveled for work? I hadn’t left North America until last year! I wasn’t in a position to travel on my journeyman actor’s salary before now. I made my first trip to Germany last summer, and went to Berlin. Earlier this year I went to London for the first time. Germany was amazing. I can’t wait to go back. And I really fell in love with London and I look forward to meeting my [future] husband in Spain! Where would you love to go for a vacation? Spain! He’s waiting there. I want to go to Australia. I want to go to Africa and do a safari. I like the warm places. You’re in amazing shape, and certainly aren’t shy about letting us know on social media! What’s your advice for working out when on the road or stuck in a hotel room? You have to be creative with hotel gyms. A cable machine is your best friend. Because you want to create enough tension, that’s how you build muscle. And yoga. So if you have a cable machine, an ab wheel, and a yoga mat, you can get an amazing workout.

Wilson Cruz and Anthony Rapp on Star Trek: Discovery

What do you always pack? I know this is such a frickin’ gay thing to say, but I don’t leave the house for a long trip without my ab wheel. It’s such a full body workout and it collapses so you can pack it easily. With the way you preceded your answer, I expected you to say a copy of Mariah Carey’s Glitter. Not that one! I remember going to the movie theater and Bruce Vilanch was in line to see Glitter, and I asked what he’s going to see and he pointed to the poster and said, ‘Gutter.’ And if you looked at the poster, the L and the I in Glitter made a U. But I digress. Have you ever been approached to play a role that you turned down? Joel Shcumacher made a film called Flawless and there was a series of drag queen roles, and just finished playing Angel in RENT on Broadway. Joel wanted a meeting with me and he offered this role. It would have been a big paycheck, but I really felt I didn’t need to play another drag queen. And he was going on and on about my performance, and I got the impression he was talking about Wilson Jermaine Heredia [who originated the role], because we have the same first name. So I said, ‘I’m Wilson Cruz. I didn’t originate the role!’ He said, I know who you are! But to this day I still think Joel thought I was Heredia, because when I turned him down, he ended up casting Wilson Jermaine Heredia! If you could play any real person in a biopic, who would it be? Prince. I think he was a fascinating bundle of contradictions. What interesting and rich possibilities for an actor to delve into. There’s so much we don’t know about him and his genius. He’s an American story. Rags to riches. A cultural icon. I have reverence for him, but I also think there’s a human story that hasn’t been told. Has there been any talk of a sequel series to Visible that would cover movies? No. There have been rumblings about other possibilities, [including] another country’s evolution in TV, or even another form of media in terms of how it was affected by the LGBTQ community and movement. I’m a producer now! I like getting things done. I’m one of those people who likes to cross things off a list and it’s the job of a producer to produce. I like bringing people together to create something they can be passionate about, and I think I also have a unique perspective and can represent an audience that hasn’t been catered to. —Lawrence Ferber

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what’shappening in... COLUMBUS, OHIO by Ivan Quintanilla

ART & CULTURE In March, 2020, the Columbus Museum of Art (480 E. Broad St. Tel: 614221-6801. www.columbusmuseum.org) brought home their groundbreaking exhibition “Art After Stonewall,” showcasing more than 250 individual works created since the Stonewall Uprising. Though Stonewall is credited with launching the LGBTQ rights movement in the United States, curator Daniel Marcus feels its effect on the art world deserves more recognition. “Our exhibition looks at two decades of the entanglement of contemporary art, queer culture and politics,” said Marcus. “It’s a massive show interested in the ways artists engaged social movements and the social revolution initiated by Stonewall in 1969.” From that temporary exhibit, the museum has acquired several pieces that will be integrated into their permanent collection.

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The Scioto River and Columbus Skyline at Night

The first art museum to open in Ohio, the Columbus Museum of Art has traditionally focused on nineteenth and twentieth century art. With a $37-million renovation project completed in 2017, the museum has expanded both its blueprint and programming. In April 2019, it launched the Center for Arts and Social Engagement (CASE), organizing art and conversation around complex issues in our society. After tackling how “Isolation” affects us in ways that are personal, social, and political in its inaugural year—a theme that might bear revisiting after our COVID-19 quarantine experience—2020 will explore the theme of “Justice.” One mile away, in the emerging Franklinton neighborhood, the National Veterans Memorial and Museum (300 W. B ro a d S t . Te l : 6 1 4 - 3 6 2 - 2 8 0 0 . www.nationalvmm.org) does justice to American veterans from the Revolutionary War to present-day conflicts. The only museum in the country dedicated to honoring veterans opened in October 2018, with a focus on the human experience, not the wars fought. As the city’s newest landmark, the 50,000 square-foot museum has transformed the waterfront of the Scioto River. Built as intersecting con-

crete bands of concentric circles, the museum’s layers stack to a rooftop sanctuary with expansive views of the river and the Downtown skyline. Just a ten-minute walk away, a 100-yearold warehouse has been converted into a co-working space for local artists. The 400 West Rich (www.400westrich.com) building is home to galleries, studios, and performance groups. The concept of “local” is highly revered here, according to Mikey Thomas, the director of Movement Activities (www.movementactivities.com), an alternative movement training center specializing in aerial dance and fitness, which was one of the first tenants in the complex eight years ago. “All of our instructors are local. That’s really important to me. We have the best right here and we want Columbus people utilized,” said Thomas. In addition to aerial training and performance, Movement Activities collaborates with other artists on special workshops as diverse as the population they serve. One queer-crowd favorite is the Strings Attached Ukulele Gatherings (www.facebook.com/groups/StringsAttachedUke), one-hour classes that teach participants of all levels to play the ukulele in a group sing-a-long. Every first and third Wednesday of the

Photo: Jon Bilous

he first thing I noticed at checkin at the Moxy Short North Hotel was the Experience Columbus Visitor Guide (www.experiencecolumbus.com) whose cover featured a same-sex couple with their adorable little girl. It was a level of representation I had seldom seen in mainstream tourism promotion and one that made me feel instantly welcomed. The city of scarlet and gray, the colors of their beloved The Ohio State University, brings a pop of rainbow to the American Midwest. As one of the largest festivals in the region, Columbus Pride (www.columbuspride.org) attracts more than 700,000 people every June. This year, the COVID-19 pandemic has postponed the festivities till October. Columbus is a young city with an entrepreneurial spirit. According to the U.S. Census Bureau findings released in 2019, Columbus was the only Midwestern city to make the Top 15 Fastest Growing Cities list. The result has brought a revitalization of neighborhoods, a renaissance of culture, and a reinhabiting of the city center.

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what’shappening in... HOTELS & RESTAURANTS The boom in tourism has also sprouted new hotels and restaurants throughout Columbus. The 116-room Moxy Short North (808 N. High St. Tel: 614-412-7664. www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/cmhoxmoxy-columbus-short-north) is the newest kid on the block, conveniently located a hop, skip and a stumble from several gay bars. Described as a “boutique hotel with the social heart of a hostel” this Marriott property is geared toward millennial travelers. The rooms, though small, utilize every nook and cranny and shift the focus to the Moxy’s expansive shared spaces. The lobby serves as café, bar, and socializing lounge, with pool table, arcade, and board games for all to share. Later this year, the restaurant Townhall takes over the hotel’s street level space and the Moxy will unveil a new rooftop bar.

Columbus Museum of Art at Dusk

Photo: Courtesy of Columbus Museum of Art

FASHION New York. Los Angeles. Columbus? Fashionistas, flaunt your style! Not only are major retailers like Abercrombie & Fitch and Express headquartered in Columbus, but fashion programs at The Ohio State University and Columbus College of Art and Design infuse the city with fresh talent every year. With the third largest concentration of fashion designers in the country (behind New York City and Los Angeles), Columbus forms a chic bridge between the fashionable coasts. Since 2010, Fashion Week Columbus (www.fashionweekcolumbus.org) has been showcasing emerging and established designers every year. “I’ve shown all over the world but, for me, there is no place more exciting for fashion right now than Columbus,” said Juan Jose Saenz-Ferreyros (www.ferreyroslife.com), a Peruvian fashion designer

who has been based in Columbus for five years. His collection ranges from elaborate pageant gowns to high-end ready-to-wear. The modern-day gentleman needs to look no further than Samson (722 N. High St. Tel: 614-504-8038. www.samsonmensemporium.com) in the Short North neighborhood. In this men’s emporium you’ll feel like “you’re visiting an old friend and shopping in his wellcurated living room,” said owner Travis Samson. Carrying clothing, grooming products, and barware, Samson is a little gem of a shop serving up a classically casual style for men. Driven by a mission to dress everyone, Olly Awake (www.ollyawake.com) is one of Columbus’ newest fashion brands and one whose focus is on creating gender equal clothing, for all body types.

ART Sculpture at Columbus School of Art and Design

Photo: Aceshot1

month, the artists of 400 West Rich open their studio doors for Welcome Wednesday, with demos and artist interactions. The entire neighborhood gets involved every second Friday of each month for Franklinton Fridays (www.franklintonartsdistrict.com), with gallery openings, live performances, and special programming throughout the district. The Short North neighborhood joins in the artistic spirit on the first Saturday of each month with the Short North Gallery Hop (https://shortnorth.org/arts-galleries/galleryhop). From 4P.M.-9P.M., galleries, non-traditional exhibit spaces, bars, and restaurants welcome art lovers to meander around the central LGBTQ hood of Columbus. But you don’t need an event to enjoy art here. Any time of the year, the Art Makes Columbus (www.columbusmakesart.com/public-art) database will guide you through the public art and murals that bring artistry to the city streets. If nature is your primary inspiration, head to Franklin Park Conservatory and Botanical Gardens (1777 E. Broad St. Tel: 614-715-8000. www.fpconservatory.org), located two miles from Downtown. The 13acre facility has been connecting Columbus residents to their land since 1895. In May 2018, the Conservatory opened their Children’s Garden, a 2-acre immersive experience that includes a canopy walk 13 feet in the air, nine different installations from local artists, and opportunities for children to plant their own garden.

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Photo: Emma Parker

what’shappening in...

The Guild House

Also in the Short North, the Graduate Hotel (750 N. High St. Tel: 614-484-1900. www.graduatehotels.com/columbus) opened in July 2019. The independent hotel chain focuses on college towns and, for its Columbus edition, found inspiration in The Ohio State University. The Graduate uses Ohio State memorabilia and honors prominent alums in each of the rooms. They’ve gone as far as designing the urinals in the men’s lobby bathroom in the colors of the Buckeyes chief rival, University of Michigan. The Canopy by Hilton (77 E. Nationwide Blvd. Tel: 614-223-1400. www.hilton.com) brought yet another choice across from the Greater Columbus Convention Center in 2019. The 167-room hotel (including four suites) comes equipped with a “transfer lounge” offering lockers and private showers for guests who arrive early. Goodale Station (goodalestation.com), the hotel’s rooftop restaurant serves New American Cuisine with indoor/outdoor dining options and sweeping views. The inventive cocktail list includes a vodka-based drink named the Fancy Nancy, served with a baby’s breath bouquet. The name alone is a reason to order. For a dining experience that feels like you’ve been invited into someone’s home, visit the newly opened Ambrose and Eve (716 S. High St. Tel: 614-725-2080. www.ambroseandevecolumbus.com), coowned by Chefs Matt Heaggans and Catie

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Randazzo, a graduate of the Columbus Culinary Institute. The restaurant is named after Randazzo’s grandparents and the décor feels as homey as their parlor. Following gramp’s advice of kindness, the restaurant will donate to charity for every order sold of their signature Fried Chicken Supper. To continue your charitable chewing, head to Taco Tuesday at The Kitchen (231 E. Livingston Ave. Tel: 614-225-8940. www.thekitchencolumbus.com), a pop-up dining event that partners with local organizations every week. For a spirited dining experience, saunter to Service Bar (1230 Courtland Ave. Tel: 614-947-1231. www.servicebarcolumbus.com), a bustling restaurant connected to Middle West Spirits (www.middlewestspirits.com). Cocktail connoisseurs can schedule a distillery tour, dine at the restaurant and leave with a bottle of their award-winning OYO vodka or MWS whiskey from the adjacent Bottle Shop. For a nightcap with a view, ascend to Lincoln Social (711 N. High St. Tel: 614-300-9494. www.lincolnsocialrooftop.com), arguably the city’s most popular rooftop bar, since opening in Short North in March 2019. NIGHTLIFE In today’s environment where LGBTQ-specific bars are closing or blending with mainstream establishments, what I found most novel about Columbus nightlife is the

perseverance of queer spaces. The city boasts more than 10 LGBTQ bars. Also, the Columbus drag scene has achieved a new level of international recognition with RuPaul christening local queen Nina West as “the PRIDE of Season 11” and then crowning her as Miss Congeniality. Columbus repaid the favor by renaming a prominent passageway in the gayborhood, “The Nina West Way.” Located next to Nina’s “Way,” Union Café (782 N. High St. Tel: 614-421-2233. www.facebook.com/UnionCafe/), has been anchoring the Short North neighborhood for over 20 gay years. Across the street, Axis (775 N. High St. Tel: 614-291-4008. www.axisonhigh.com) is Columbus’ largest LGBTQ nightclub, hosting dance parties, male reviews, and performances by some of the city’s most loved drag entertainers, including Nina and her drag mother Virginia West. Ladies who love ladies (and pizza) should head to Slammers (202 E. Long St. Tel: 614-221-8880. www.slammerspizza.com), a lesbian bar with a pizza kitchen, patio, and live entertainment. Opened in 2017, Boscoe’s (1224 S. Hight St. Tel: 614-826-3758. www.boscoesbar.com) is one of the city’s newest neighborhood bars featuring go-go boys and drag shows. How lucky are your charms? Find out with the men at Cavan Irish Pub (1409 S. High St. Tel: 614-725-5502. www.cavanirishpub.com), a gay pub in the German Village neighborhood featuring male strippers on weekends. And for men in the mood for a sweatier, edgier night out, the sexy choice is AWOL (49 Parsons Ave. Tel: 614-621-8779. www.awolbar.com). Though open throughout the week, Saturday night brings different themes to the dancefloor, including leather, fetish, and the monthly body-positive UnderBear Party, with a special area encouraging playful interactions. You’ll feel welcome in Columbus any time. However, should you want your trip to coincide with an extra dose of queer, visit October 3 for the newly scheduled Columbus Pride Parade (www.columbuspride.org); October 23-24 for Highball Halloween (www.highballcolumbus.org), a massive costumed street party and fashion show; or August 30September 4, 2021, when the city hosts more than 250 teams for the North American Gay Softball World Series (www.2021gsws.com).

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escapeplan BOSTON SEAPORT istorically, Boston has been known for neighborhoods like Back Bay and Cambridge. For the Red Sox and Faneuil Hall. For the Isabella Stuart Gardener Museum and Beacon Hill. Now, a new neighborhood has hit the scene and is stealing the spotlight. The Boston Seaport has turned into a thriving, multicultural experience offering art, live music, a diverse food scene, and trendy hotels. As it’s name implies, it sits on the harbor, giving you views of both the skyline and the sea as you sip on a cocktail at one of the rooftop lounges. If you’re looking for the perfect weekend escape, we have your itinerary all planned out. From where to sleep, eat, drink, and play, this is your “escape plan” to the Boston Seaport.

Chef Tatiana Rosana of Outlook Kitchen

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Yotel that steals the show. Yotel is a hotel inspired by air travel. From the bed in your room, to the “IFE” setup, all the way to futuristic lobby, you’ll see the airline connections everywhere. Best of all, if you ever need something brought to your room, the hotel’s friendly Yo2D2 robot will gladly bring it for you.

Seaport would be incomplete without a visit to the stunning Institute of Contemporary Art (ICA). With rotating galleries from the most

UNWIND Boston Seaport is filled with cozy coffee shops and lowkey cafes to give you a break from your busy trip. The best is Tatte, a local Boston eatery that makes their own breads, pastries, cakes, and of

DO The neighborhood has a gorgeous public space that’s used for ice skating in the winter and sunbathing in the summer. But a trip to

EAT While loaded with excellent restaurants, like the seafood classic Row 34, or the urban-Italian gem Sportello, the real treat in Seaport is Outlook Kitchen. Chef Tatiana Rosana takes a unique philosophy to her food. She has Cuban heritage, and her wife has Korean heritage. Chef Rosana blends the two to create dishes you can’t find anywhere else. Highlights include her take on the Cuban sandwich and her sesame-crusted feta appetizer. SLEEP The Envoy Hotel is a classy, upscale establishment filled with Boston’s who’s-who, but it’s the

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Yotel Lobby

DRINK A transplant from London, Flight Club is a whimsical bourgeoisie carnival, complete with artisan cotton candy, but the main draw is the darts. The boards are connected to monitors and allow you to play various games that are sure to keep the night fun and create lasting memories. It’s currently one of Boston’s trendiest nightspots. For an elegant night out, Committee is a must. Part tapas bar and part cocktail lounge, the establishment is filled with locals mingling for after-work drinks and foodies looking to pair the latest cocktail with a mezze plate. One of their signature cocktails, The Wingman, made with lavender-infused gin and Crème de Violette, is a crowd favorite.

renowned names in modern art, the museum is a highlight for any art lover. Also, be sure to take an afternoon to shop. There’s something for everyone in Seaport, from Filson to Lululemon and L. L. Bean to independent artisan shops selling locally-made blankets, candles, and confectionaries.

Swimming Pool at InterContinental Boston

course, delicious lattes to go along with them. The café is known for their tarts, cheesecakes, and assortment of croissants. For something even more relaxing, try the spa at the InterContinental Boston. Mixing stately history with modern charm, the hotel’s spa is the perfect place to relax and rejuvenate. Plus, you get the kind of treatment that only the InterContinental can provide.

Lookout Rooftop at the Envoy Hotel

For a full listing of restaurants, bars, clubs, hotels, museums, and more, visit BostonSeaport.xyz.

Photo: Trong Nguyen

by Keith Langston

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globetrotting LONG BEACH, CALIFORNIA by Jason A. Heidemann

24 PASSPORT I SUMMER 2020

The Queen Mary

life via augmented reality. Then there’s queer-owned businesses like Wide Eyes Open Palms (416 Cherry Ave. Tel: 562-386-2031. www.wideeyesopenpalms.com), a café and eatery that specifically bans sexism, racism, homophobia, fatphobia, and transphobia right on its front door. There’s the roughly dozen LGBTQ bars scattered throughout the city including a downtown outpost of festive gay burger franchise Hamburger Mary’s (330 Pine Ave. Tel: 562-436-7900. www.hamburgermarys.com/longbeach), and a bunch clustered around gay-oriented Rainbow Row where the crosswalks are painted in Pride colors. Robert Garcia has been serving as Long Beach’s first openly gay mayor since 2014, and tennis legend and activist Billie Jean King was raised here. Lastly, there’s the city’s flagship tourist attraction, a retired cruiseship, the Queen Mary. Seriously, could Long Beach be any gayer

o get my bearings, I head to brunch at the Hotel Maya (700 Queensway Dr. Tel: 562-435-7676. www.hotel-

mayalongbeach.com). Long Beach is a harbor town after all, and dining al fresco at the hotel’s Latin eatery Fuego reveals panoramic views of the Queen Mary, Parker’s Lighthouse, the Astronaut Islands (manmade oil derricks), and the colorful tourist hangout Shoreline Village. Nearby, a large geodesic dome that once housed aviation legend and movie mogul Howard Hughes’s aircraft the Spruce Goose now serves as the Long Beach Cruise Terminal. The views here are perfect and so is my strawberry basil cocktail and seafood crepas which are tightly rolled to resemble enchiladas, but stuffed with a creamy filling consisting of shrimp and large chunks of crab meat. In fact, the Hotel Maya itself is something of a local icon. It helps that it’s located harborside, but there’s also the fact that guestrooms are housed inside a series of buildings shaped to resemble Mayan pyramids and are flanked by a bougie pool area and outdoor common areas boasting fire pits. In the lobby, order a cocktail and the bar will deliver it to you via dumbwaiter.

Photo: Gagliardi Photography

y first piece of Long Beach advice? Don’t actually plan a vacation around the beach. While it may in fact be lengthy (5.5 miles to be exact), thanks to offshore oil rigs and a breakwater preventing ocean waves a popular gathering place for sunbathers Long Beach is not. A young barista bestows this wisdom upon me while handing out fluffy egg sandwiches and thick slabs of French toast to the morning rush at downtown’s Recreational Coffee (237 Long Beach Blvd. Tel: 562-436-4954. www.recreationalcoffee.com). “Long Beach,” she says, “is for eating, drinking and hanging out.” I thank her for the advice, regret the two-dozen Speedos I’ve packed for the weekend, and order my coffee to go. To avid Southern California visitors, Long Beach, a South Bay city of a half million people only 25 miles from downtown Los Angeles, is instantly familiar. Look east and you’ll see a mountainous horizon framed in the foreground by an army of super tall palm trees lined up symmetrically like a row of golf tees. Look west and there’s the Pacific Ocean. Look everywhere else and you’ll see stucco homes with Spanish tiled roofs, too many Del Tacos and a familiar reliance on the automobile. But look a little closer and you’ll see something else…a whole lot of gay people. Long Beach just might be the West Coast’s new queer capital. Yes, it’s a bold claim, but there’s evidence to prove it. Stroll the leafy Long Beach Promenade, a greenway slicing right through downtown and flanked by loft buildings, hip eateries and designated pickup and drop off spots for electric scooters, and you’ll see same-sex couples and hot daddies galore out walking their dogs. The greenway comes to an abrupt end at Harvey Milk Promenade Park and Equality Plaza, the first park in the nation named for the slain gay civil rights icon. The park is striped in rainbow colors and a downloadable phone app brings Milk’s story to

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globetrotting start slowly making my way back downtown via 2nd Avenue which cuts right through Belmont Shores, the most happening ‘hood in Long Beach. I arrive in Belmont Shores at that magic Southland hour when the sun is waving goodbye to the West Coast en route to Asia and Southern Californians pull on their hoodies to beat back the “chilly” temps. The restaurants, student bars, cafes, skate shops and clothing stores along 2nd Avenue are buzzing. I see two silver foxes dining al fresco at casual New American eatery Saint & Second (4828 E. 2nd St. Tel: 562-433-4828. www.saintandsecond.com), and young people cramming into gatropub Simmzy’s (5271 E. 2nd St. Tel: 562-439-5590. www.simmzys.com). I end up seated at the bar at Roe Seafood (5374 E. 2nd St. Tel: 562-546-7110. www.roeseafood.com) where I snack on fish tacos, baconwrapped mahi, and a phenomenal seafood chowder. Two stools down from me, a nattily dressed daddy is spoon feeding his twink boyfriend a shrimp ceviche.

y nighttime ride back to downtown takes me past Ocean Boulevard, a ritzy, waterfrontfacing street anchored by Villa Riviera (800 E. Ocean Blvd. Tel: 562-437-6703), a registered historic French Gothic condo building where Liz Taylor once lived. Clark Gable and Rock Hudson had mansions on this strip as well. As I zoom toward downtown where a pre-bar disco nap awaits, I

spy the Queensway Bridge lit up in Pride colors (it’s not even Pride Month). I love this town! Pro tip: Take a ride share to the bars. It’s a given that you don’t want to drink and drive, but a parking spot near the gay bars is harder to find than a WeHo top. Mineshaft (1720 E. Broadway. Tel: 562436-2433) is slamming tonight. Did they round up the cute men of Long Beach (and more than a few hot lesbians) just for my sake? On the box, a glistening go-go boy in army fatigue briefs, a harness and chunky glasses wiggles his booty while the middle of the bar is taken up by two pool tables, one of which is lorded over by a sharply dressed trans woman who appears to be handily whipping her opponents. I love this bar; this is definitely one shaft I’d go down again and again. At The Brit (1744 E Broadway. Tel: 562432-9742. www.thebritbarlb.com), a queer bar that wears its Anglophile affectations on its sleeve (picture a red phone booth, Union Jack flag, and a framed portrait of the Queen), I meet Andrew and it’s infatuation at first sight. Andrew pays way too much attention to me (a sign I’m definitely no longer in LA) and it’s appropriate that a song by the Killers is playing because he’s killing my heart. Bartender flirtations are meaningless, but who cares. Between gazing into Andrew’s pretty eyes and jukebox jams by the likes of Madonna, Scissor Sisters and Robyn, I declare this bar another winner and decide to call it a night.

Harvey Milk Promenade Park and Equality Plaza

SUMMER 2020 I PASSPORT

Photo: Inspired By Maps

ong Beach is one thing other Southland cities are not—compact and manageable—and before I know it I’m on an electric scooter and whizzing out of downtown via the Broadway bike lane past salons, corner markets, taquerias, craftsman homes adorned with rainbow flags and gay bars. My destination is Retro Row, a hub of funky and vintage shops clustered around 4th Street and Cherry Avenue. Here, there are stores like Moxi Roller Skate Shop (2132 E. 4th St. Tel: 562-434-8488. www.moxilongbeach.com), which is decked out in Pride colors. I stroll past the Art Theatre of Long Beach (2025 E 4th St. Tel: 562-438-5435. www.arttheatrelongbeach.org), a restored 1920s theater which screens oldies and documentaries and I pass The Center Long Beach (2017 E 4th St. Tel: 562-434-4455. www.centerlb.org), which offers health, legal and social services, seminars and workshops, and hosts annual events for the LGBTQ community . My favorite store along Retro Row has to be the Hangout (2122 E. 4th St. Tel: 562676-6810. www.shopthehangout.com), a combination clothing store, café, home goods emporium, men’s barber shop and nursery. The place is a perfect ten on the hipster scale (they even have swings inside the shop), and the product curation is fantastic. I’m back on my scooter moments later, but a few blocks down the road am slamming the brakes when I pass plantbased vegan ice cream shop Hug Life (2707 E. 4th St. Tel: 562-343-5991. www.huglifeicecream.com ). I decide to beat summer’s sweltering heat (which in coastal Long Beach is only 77 degrees) with a scoop of mango chamay ice cream in a cup, but of course I also sample flavors like Thai Tea and Green Goblin. Yum! I continue aboard my scooter all the way until I reach the neighborhood of Naples which actually consists of three islands (including an island within an island) that spill into Alamitos Bay. Not only does Bay Shore Avenue boast a legit packed beach, but Naples is famous for its nod to Italy including ritzy homes crafted in Italianate style and romantic gondola rides through the narrow canals ringing the islands and steered by gondoliers in striped shirts. Using Naples as my turnaround point, I

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globetrotting

Photo: f11photo

ise, shine, brunch. The Breakfast Bar (70 Atlantic Ave. Tel: 562-7261700. www.the-breakfast-bar.com), a beloved local eatery is inexplicably located within a Travelodge. But hey, I’m not complaining about Uncle Marcee’s Omelet Casserole, a menu item that has been passed down three generations and prepared 24 hours in advance. It’s exactly what I want with my morning latte: meat, veggies and eggs oven baked to fluffy perfection and served with a potato pancake and a side of fruit. Items like French Toast, “naked cakes” and meatloaf steak round out the menu. I am now strolling vibrant downtown Long Beach. In the 1930s an earthquake leveled the city and much of the town was rebuilt in Art Deco. Many of those buildings still stand which makes Long Beach something of an eye-popper for architecture buffs. Equally impressive is the city’s more recent revitalization which has turned the city’s core into 1.38 “un square miles” (as the city likes to say) of bars and breweries, eateries with expansive sidewalk patios and a mix of indie and chain retail. Try not to be impressed by how many people hang out here on a weekend night. My favorite downtown shop is MADE by Millworks (240 Pine Ave. Tel: 562-

584-6233. www.madebymillworks.com) an enormous showroom where everything for sale has been crafted within 25 miles of Long Beach. I peruse items like tank tops, greeting cards, accessories, lgbtq knickknacks, fine art prints, jewelry and more. There’s also an art gallery. But wait, it’s even cooler. Behind a door in the back of MADE is speakeasy Elinor, a tucked away taproom named for Elinor Otto the longest serving Rosie the Riveter and a SoCal native who made airplanes for more than 50 years until she was laid off a few years ago at age 95. In October 2019 she turned 100! Speaking of airplanes, definitely fly into Long Beach Airport (LGB) if possible. It’s a total charmer with a mid-century design that recalls the Golden Age of Aviation and is celebrated for its stellar dining options. Even if you fly into LAX, Burbank, or John Wayne Orange County, make time to hang around The Hangar at Long Beach Exchange (4250 McGowen St. Tel: 949-760-9150. www.thelongbeachexchange.com). This former airport hangar was turned into food hall and in addition to soaring ceilings and famous quotes from aviation giants like Orville Wright and Amelia Earhart splashed across the walls, it’s a legit foodie mecca

where I find myself artfully trying to swivel my strawberry and dark chocolate with hazelnuts popsicle from Popbar back and forth so that I can catch it all from dripping onto the floor. Other food vendors include Plaid Sheep (a grilled cheese bar), Bite Mi Asian Kitchen, Amore Cito (a taqueria), Bottlecraft (a beer tasting room), and many others. The back entrance spills onto the Long Beach Exchange, a sprawling outdoor shopping plaza.

fter eating, I duck into the fantastic Aquarium of the Pacific (100 Aquarium Way. Tel: 562-590-3100. www.aquariumofpacific.org). I’m a sucker for anything with tentacles, scales, and flippers, so naturally, I love this place. West Coast-centric exhibits like the Southern California and Baja Gallery and the Northern California Gallery offer the requisite hat tip to the region, like all visitors I’m here to see animals and the Aquarium boasts more than 11,000, including sea otters, rays, large sharks (including a touch pool), penguins, sea lions, octopi, jellyfish and of course thousands of fish. From the aquarium I see the Queen Mary (1126 Queens Hwy. Tel: 877-342-0738.

Long Beach Marina and City Skyline

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globetrotting Enjoying Ice Cream from Hug Life

Photo: AJR_photo

Photo: Steve Cukrov

Shoreline Village at Rainbow Harbor

www.queenmary.com), the transatlantic ocean liner that made its maiden voyage in 1936 and has been retired in Long Beach since 1967. Today, she’s the city’s most visited attraction and also a 346-room floating hotel and events venue. I last boarded the ship during Dark Harbor, a wildly popular and month-long Halloween event in which the ship’s hull is transformed into a series of haunted mazes. Even if you don’t stay at the hotel, visit the Queen Mary if only for a drink at the Observation Bar, formerly the ship’s first class lounge and now a hangout featuring torchiere lamps, Art deco fixtures, and the original artwork. It's now early evening and I need a pick me up so I head inland to the Bixby Knolls neighborhood to check out SteelCraft (3768 Long Beach Blvd. www.steelcraftlb.com), a collection of shipping containers stitched together around a large courtyard and featuring walkup eateries like Tajima Ramen, Waffle Love, Desano Pizza and Rori’s Artisanal Creamery among others. Not much of a day drinker, I do the unthinkable and order myself a beer from Smog City Brewing and join the young families, hipsters, and working stiffs hanging out at the large wooden tables that give SteelCraft an Oktoberfest beer hall vibe. As dusk turns the sky from its ubiquitous robin’s egg blue to shades or orange, pink and purple, a string of lights that zigzag over the courtyard begin to flicker on. Downtown’s big city energy is calling me and that’s where I find myself at dinnertime.

PASSPORT I APRIL 2020

With so many restaurants to choose from, I end up eeny meeny miny and mo-ing my way onto a bar stool at packed eatery The Ordinaire (210 The Promenade N. Tel: 562676-4261. www.theordinaire.com), a joint that is jumping on this warm Saturday night. There’s a New England pilgrim vibe to the place and I order a lobster pot pie off the seafood-focused menu. My bearded bartender is a cutie and while slurping lobster I decide to sneak a peek on Scruff and Grindr to see if his profile pops up. No such luck. Tiny bar, The Falcon (1435 E. Broadway. Tel: 562-432-4146. www.falconbar.com) is more about chatting, carousing and bending over the service area to order another vodka soda. Named for the street it sits on, the Falcon is a charming LGBTQ saloon with an attic vibe and too many televisions for my liking. It’s only 10 P.M. on this Saturday night, but already the bar is hopping. I overhear a gaggle of gays extolling the virtues of Long Beach: “All of the LA’s pluses without the snobbery” and decide The Falcon is a great little bar to begin or end a night. Right where microfiber meets ass cheek, I find myself sliding a buck into the thong of the beefy gogo otter gyrating to Prince’s “Erotic City” at the Silver Fox (411 Redondo Ave. Tel: 562-439-6343. www.silverfoxlongbeach.com) and survey my surroundings. I don’t think the name is meant to be taken literally, but there sure are a lot of daddies in the room tonight. This place is priceless. The floor is covered

wall to wall in black carpet streaked with rainbow zigzags and the furnishings and fixtures imply the bar hasn’t had a makeover since the early ‘90s. This place feels like “Saved by the Bell” if it had been set in a gay bar, and I absolutely love it. The crowd is racially diverse and some youngsters are scattered among the more mature nightlife goers. I end up in conversation with a preppy guy named Tom who is chaperoning his friends Grant and Eduardo from San Francisco. When the gogo otter saunters by us with a tray of shots, he stops and squeals in delight at the sight of Todrick Hall’s “I Like Boys” video which features the singer in the desert surrounded by a half dozen nude dancers covered only by sheets. “That one’s me!” he says pointing to a chiseled chorus line dancer in the buff. Later I get showered with compliments from Jay, a beefy school teacher who introduces himself to me because he recognizes my bare booty on Instagram. It’s not gonna get any better than that so I call it a night. The next morning I decide to stroll downtown’s promenade one last time before heading back to Los Angeles. Some of the eateries I pass are preparing for the Sunday brunch crowd and from one restaurant’s patio I hear Jace Everett crooning “I don’t know what you’ve done to me but it’s true, I wanna do bad things to you.” Oh Long Beach, I could so do bad things to you.

SUMMER 2020 I PASSPORT

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Eat. Drink. Love.

A Culinary Tour of Virginia by Jeff Heilman

PASSPORT I SUMMER 2020

Photo: Rawpixel.com

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SUMMER 2020 I PASSPORT

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a culinary tour of virginia

RICHMOND

Photo: Courtesy of Alefwife

Virginia’s capital is also its headquarters for culinary invention and oldschool classics. In the fickle world of restaurants, starting a revolution is one thing, but keeping it alive and kicking is another animal entirely. Just don’t tell that to Richmond’s chefs, who ignited a culinary renaissance a decade ago that remains hotter than ever. National recognition started in 2010, when Dale Reitzer earned the first of three consecutive James Beard Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic semifinalist nods for his just-closed New American hotspot Acacia Mid-Town. Lee Gregory, who worked with Reitzer at Acacia, is another leader of Richmond’s remarkable run. In 2011, he and partner Kendra Feather opened The Roosevelt, (623 North 25th Street. Tel: 804-658-1935. rooseveltrva.com). Matching the intrepid location in then-troubled Church Hill, Richmond’s historic first neighborhood, their elevated “Southern pub fare” earned Gregory

Alefwife Whole Roasted Red Snapper

PASSPORT I SUMMER 2020

three consecutive (2013-2015) Beard nominations for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic. In 2014, Gregory partnered with Chef Joe Sparatta and farmer Matt Gottwald to create Southeast cuisine-driven Southbound (southboundrva.com). In 2012, Sparatta had brought his Michelin background (David Bouley and Eric Ripert) and Relais & Chateaux credentials to Richmond with Heritage (1627 West Main Street. Tel: 804-353-4060. heritagerva.com). Having since exited the Roosevelt partnership, Gregory’s latest siren call is Alewife (3120 E. Marshall Street. Tel: 804-325-3426. alewiferva.com). Southern Living named his Church Hill homage to MidAtlantic seafood as the South’s Best New Restaurant for 2020. Feather’s serial success includes Church Hill’s WPA (Well-Made Pastry Alliance) Bakery (wpabakery.com); long-running Garnett’s Café (garnettscafe.com), and fern bar tribute Laura Lee’s (lauraleesrva.com). Thomas Leggett, or “T”, the mastermind mixologist behind The Roosevelt’s craft cocktail program, went on to open The Jasper ( jasperbarrva.com). Other still buzzing fixtures include Dutch & Company (400 N. 27th Street. Tel: 804-643-8824. dutchandcompany.com). Sinful pleasures at this 2012 Church Hill pioneer include the Honey Pot, a flavor bomb of milk and honey panna cotta, gingersnap crumble, lemon, and blueberry in a ceramic beehive. Described by the Washingtonian as “the Szechuan master chef who inspired a Deadhead-like following,” James Beard finalist Peter Chang, having already blazed a spicy trail from Northern Virginia to Atlanta, attracted yet more “Changians” in 2012 at his first Richmond-area Peter Chang China Café (11424 W. Broad St. Glen Allen. Tel: 804-364-1688. peterchangrestaurant.com). hese and other award-winning successes put Richmond on the national foodie map, including 2014 recognition from Departures as “The Next Great American Food City.” The creative surge continued that summer when David Shannon opened L’Opossum sur la Colline de l’Oregon (626 China Street, Tel: 804-918-6028.lopossum.com). Playfully named for its Oregon Hill location, L’Opossum is a risque riff riot throughout. The interior décor, with help from Richmond punk rock bassist Greta Brinkman (Debbie Harry, Moby) includes Star Wars collectible plates and chain-swag lamps. In this theatrical food porn palace, the culinary collars match the design cuffs via French/Southern matings such as the “Vegan Orgy on Texas Beach” and “A Succulent, Young & Nubile Chicken.” In 2016, Shannon was a Beard Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic semifinalist; in 2018, Southern Living crowned L’Opossum as the South’s Best Restaurant. “Invention is a key ingredient in Richmond,” said Shannon, who pre-

L'Opossum

Photo: Visit RVA

dapting its globally recognized “Virginia is for Lovers” campaign from 1969, the Virginia Tourism Corporation’s marketing slogan “Eat. Drink. Love.” invites visitors to explore and embrace the Commonwealth’s acclaimed, adventurous food and beverage offerings. Make your RSVP for wideranging epicurean excursions that are rooted in Old Dominion’s historic ties to the bounty of the land and the sea. Agriculture is Virginia’s dominant private industry. The Commonwealth is home to more than 43,000 farms (36 percent of which are primarily operated by women) averaging 181 acres in size. Carried by the mighty James River, sedimentary deposits of fertile Pamunkey (after the Native American tribe) soil make Virginia a highyield leader. All ranked in the top ten nationally, diverse products and commodities include leaf tobacco, apples, grapes, peanuts, tomatoes, broilers, and turkeys. Produced at some 565 dairy farms, milk is Virginia’s official beverage. With prime fishing and aquacultural areas including Chesapeake Bay, the Atlantic seaboard and numerous tributaries and rivers, Virginia is a top five U.S. seafood producer and quite the catch for blue and red crab, bass, bluefish and more. The Eastern oyster (Crassostrea virginica) is Virginia’s official First Food. Liquid assets include powerhouse wine, craft brewing, and distillery industries, with George Washington’s rye whiskey notably designated as Virginia’s official spirit. In the hands of innovative chefs, bakers, vintners, brewers and distillers, Virginia’s year-round harvest inspires creative, often daring bites and beverages that attract national and global acclaim.

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a culinary tour of virginia

Photo: Visit RVA

Kendra Feather at Laura Lee’s

In the hands of innovative chefs, bakers, vintners, brewers and distillers, Virginia’s year-round harvest inspires creative, often daring bites and beverages that attract national and global acclaim. viously worked as executive sous chef at the fabled Inn at Little Washington (see Wine section). “That’s what makes the city so interesting.” Richmond’s culinary creativity stands on a bedrock of tradition. Longstanding pillars include another Shannon alma mater, Helen’s (2527 West Main Street. Tel: 804-358-4370. helensrva.com). Housed in a 1912 pharmacy, this celebrated haunt was originally D’s restaurant (1927). In 1935, owners Humbert and Marie Donati passed the business to their daughter Helen on her 21st birthday. She stamped her high-energy personality on the venue, which flourished as a juke joint popular with the swing dancing set. Helen, who passed away in 1967, also reportedly hosted a female-only speakeasy in the basement. Today, her spirit animates an all-welcoming social scene as John and Leslie Tuite, owners since 1994, keep the party going. Along with seasonal Southern brunch and dinner fare, notable bar action includes “Helen’s Thursdays.” Originated as an intimate post-dinner gathering for the restaurant’s many LGBTQ staff members and friends, this queer-driven bar night is one of the coolest events in town. Another culinary temple is Stella’s (1012 Lafayette Street. Tel: 804358-2011. stellasrichmond.com). Stella Dikos arrived in Richmond from Greece in 1961 and joined her husband’s Village Café. Paraphrasing Richmond Magazine, she welcomed the “unorthodox cast of characters

that called this bohemian stomping ground home with open arms.” Now 79, Richmond’s gastronomic goddess still holds court at the third incarnation of her eponymous Greek restaurant. Perly's Restaurant & Delicatessen (111 E Grace Street. Tel: 804912-1560. perlysrichmond.com) also hails from 1961. From Jewish classics to the Oy Vey sandwich, “It’s Yiddish for Delicious” at this Art Deco institution. Fun cocktails include the “Larry David,” blending vodka or gin with house-made celery soda. ollowing a legislative blessing in 2012, Richmond’s craft beer industry skyrocketed. Today, 30-plus breweries span the metro area, including two-location Hardywood Park Craft Brewery (2410 Ownby Lane. 804-420-2420. hardywood.com), where governing House Bill 359 and Senate Bill 604 were ceremonially enacted. Richmond’s original beer patriarch is An Bui. In 1995, the Vietnamese émigré and his two brothers opened Mekong (6004 W. Broad Street, Henrico. Tel: 804-288-8929. mekongisforbeerlovers.com). Serving authentic Vietnamese fare, the restaurant has made CraftBeer.com’s “Great American Beer Bar” list several times since 2012 for its wide selection of international and limited-edition brews. In 2014, “Chief Beer Officer” Bui opened his neighboring The Answer (theanswerbrewpub.com) brewpub.

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a culinary tour of virginia

Photo: Fred Elliot Photography

Photos: Visit RVA

Mama J's

Bookbinder's Swordfish

Old Original Bookbinder’s (1865-2009) was a Philadelphia landmark famed for its 350-capacity lobster tank and celebrity clientele, the Rat Pack and mobsters included. In 2000, the Taxin family, owners since the 1930’s, brought “Bookie’s” to Richmond. Housed in a restored tobacco warehouse, Bookbinder’s Seafood & Steakhouse (2306 E. Cary Street. Tel: 804-6436900. bookbindersrichmond.com) is for hearty plates like the Coffee Crusted Steak and hands-on hospitality of John and Jayme Taxin. Still dancing from 2004, white-tiled Can Can Brasserie (3120 W. Cary Street. Tel: 804-358-7274. cancanbrasserie.com), with its long zinc-topped bar, is an authentic French bistro in the heart of bustling Carytown. In the early 1900’s, Richmond’s Jackson Ward neighborhood was an epicenter of African-American culture. Today, the resurgent “Harlem of the South” is home to one of America’s top soul food restaurants, Mama J’s (415 N. 1st Street. Tel: 804-225-7449. mamajskitchen.com). Since 2009, Mama J herself, Velma Johnson, has wooed diners with family recipes dating back 50 years. The fried chicken is reason alone to go. For sweet treats, make a beeline around the corner to Sugar and Salt (416 N. 2nd St. Tel: 804-251-0475. sugarandsaltrva.com). Formerly executive pastry chef at Richmond’s grande dame Jefferson Hotel, owner Sara Ayyash’s artful cakes and other customized confections are museum-worthy. The COVID-19 lockdown scuttled my planned visit to experience the recent wave of hotspots. Tabled for next time, these include Longoven (2939 W. Clay Street. Tel: 804-308-3497. longovenrva.com), a globally inspired fine-dining anchor of the culinary-driven transformation of the Scott’s Addition Historic District. This fast-evolving former industrial area is also home to Alpine-influenced Brenner Pass (3200 Rockbridge Street. Tel: 804.658.9868. brennerpassrva.com) from the owners of German-inspired Metzger Bar and Butchery (801 N. 23rd Street. Tel: 804325-3147. metzgerbarandbutchery.com). Others notable venues include Basque-influenced Restaurant Adarra (618 N. 1st Street. Tel: 804-477-3456. restaurantadarra.com), and The Broken Tulip (3129 W. Cary Street. Tel: 804-353-4020. thebrokentulip.com), with its seasonal “farmers, fishermen and foragers of Virginia” menu. In pivoting to curbside, takeout, and delivery mode like everywhere else, Richmond’s restaurateurs have rechanneled their inventive energy into fighting spirit. “Competitive but collaborative, our chef community is really pulling together,” said Kevin Clay, founder of Richmond-based Big Spoon Co., a premier communications agency for food, beverage, and hospitality brands. “And Richmonders are doing their part,” added Clay, whose own efforts include hosting a webinar series featuring local restaurateurs and creating a Facebook group, RVA Dine & Drink, which had attracted 17,300-plus members and counting in early June. “Everybody is working on ways to help.”

Photo: Visit RVA

LYNCHBURG

Perly’s Table

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Thomas Jefferson called Lynchburg, which he frequented from his nearby private Poplar Forest (poplarforest.org) retreat, “the most interesting spot in the state.” After three visits in the last two years, I can confirm Lynchburg’s atmospheric appeal. Bring your walking shoes, camera, and appetite as satisfaction for all three awaits in the downtown and riverfront core. About 70 miles southeast of Charlottesville in the Blue Ridge foothills, the steep, tiered topography of the City of Seven Hills invites and rewards discovery at every turn. Dating to 1757, when 17-year old John Lynch established a James River crossing for his family’s ferry business, Lynchburg later prospered in tobacco, trade, manufacturing, and banking. By the early 20th century, it was the nation’s wealthiest city of its size.

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a culinary tour of virginia

ALEXANDRIA Rated a Virginia All-Star for LGBTQ rights by the Human Rights Campaign Municipality Equality Index in 2019, and proudly participating in the Virginia Tourism Corporation’s statewide LGBTQ initiative (virginia.org/lgbt) to welcome all visitors, Alexandria (alexandriava.com) also features an all-inclusive dining scene. Lined with restaurants, hotels and shops, King Street has been the center of action since the city’s founding in 1749. Originated by star Belgian chefrestaurateur Robert Wiedmaier, Brabo (1600 King Street. Tel: 703-894-

Photo: RVA Imaging

Sugar and Salt

LGBT Waterfront Dining inPeter Alexandria Chang

Photo: Todd Wright for VTC.

With passing freight trains providing a nostalgic soundtrack to the past, the former “Pittsburgh of the South” wears its late 19th century industrial heritage well. Look for the evocative ghost lettering on downtown’s many former warehouses and factories. Architectural legacies include the 17-story Allied Arts Building, an Art Deco gem that evokes New York’s Rockefeller Center. The adjacent Hiltonflagged Virginian Lynchburg (712 Church Street. Tel: 434.329.3200. thevirginianhotel.com) elegantly updates the former 1913 Virginian Hotel. Stepped with war memorials, nearby Monument Terrace rises steeply to Court Street, where the Lynchburg Museum (lynchburgmuseum.org) is housed in an 1855 Greek Revival courthouse. Lined with antique stores, barbershops, hardware stores and restaurants, historic Main Street’s time capsule appeal includes the Academy Center for the Arts (600 Main Street. Tel: 434-846-8499. academycenter.org). Anchored by a restored 835-seat theater from 1905, the venue presents diverse arts and entertainment programming. Other places to stretch your legs include the 1809 Old City Cemetery (gravegarden.org) and Blackwater Creek Trail which includes passage through an 1852 rail tunnel. In this walking city, the road to boutique hospitality and dining leads straight to the Craddock Terry Hotel and Event Center (1312 Commerce Street. Tel: 434-455-1500. craddockterryhotel.com). Opened in 2007, this award-winning 44-room property connects the former Southland factory of the legendary Craddock-Terry Shoe Company with the adjoining 1896 King William Tobacco warehouse. Dating to 1888, Craddock-Terry was once the backbone of the Lynchburg economy. Producing nearly 100,000 pairs of shoes daily at its peak, it became the world’s fifth largest shoe factory. The reimagined property abounds with historical homages and artifacts. Giant red pumps adorn the exteriors, while the outdoor “LOVE”-emblazoned pump installation is a ready photo-op. Succeeding her recently retired predecessor Buster Brown, wirehaired fox terrier Penny Loafer is the hotel’s official canine ambassador. Different shoe types mark each guest room door, with room service breakfast delivered in wooden shoe boxes. Riding the bluffs overlooking the James River, the hotel also features the innovative stylings of Michelin-trained Culinary Director Jason Arbusto. The CIA graduate, whose global resume includes working with three-Michelin-star chef Alain Ducasse both in France and Las Vegas, works his craft at upscale seafood- and steak-driven Shoemakers American Grille (shoemakersdining.com) and casual sibling Waterstone Pizza waterstonepizza.com). Shoemakers’ highlights include the Honey-Glazed Warm Mozzarella, Crispy Brussel Sprouts and Signature Crab Cake, with Virginia well represented on the global wine list. Waterstone is a convivial spot for handtossed, fire-roasted gourmet pizza, and regional craft beers. Both venues offer indoor and al fresco dining, and the blufftop promenades by Shoemakers and river access from Waterstone are ideal for post-dining strolls.

3440. braborestaurant.com) was my first taste of culinary Alexandria back in 2012. Still going strong as a brasserie and tasting room at the Kimpton Lorien Hotel & Spa (lorienhotelandspa.com), the tagline of “Cocktails, Conversation and Classic French Cuisine” says it all. Updating an 1800’s feed warehouse by Alexandria’s new Potomac-facing Waterfront Park, Virtue Feed & Grain (106 South Union Street. Tel: 571-970-3669. virtuefeedgrain.com) is a lively two-level spot for modern American fare. After St. Augustine, the Patron Saint of Brewers, Augie's Mussel House & Beer Garden (1106 King Street. Tel: 703-721-3970. eataugies.com) is a popular neighborhood lure for brews, mussels, and other Belgian bites, and Alexandria’s only open-air beer garden. Opened in 1973, Taverna Cretekou (818 King Street. Tel: 703-548-8688. tavernacretekou.com) is an energetic go-to for regional Greek cuisine. Hidden at the back of a Sugar Shack donut shop, nautical-themed Captain Gregory’s (804 North Henry St. Tel: 571-659-4934. captaingregorys.com) is your speakeasy-style cabin for rotating craft cocktails, snacks, and small plates. If Thomas Jefferson is America’s viticultural patriarch, then George Washington, a leading producer in his time, is the father of American

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whiskey. Faithfully reconstructed in 2007, George Washington’s Distillery ((3200 Mount Vernon Memorial Highway, Mount Vernon. Tel: 703780-2000. mountvernon.org/the-estate-gardens/distillery) at his Mount Vernon estate produces small batch spirits and offers tours.

VIRGINIA WINE COUNTRY

Craddock Terry Hotel LOVE Pump

Photo: Courtesy of Craddock Terry Hotel

Photo: Jeff Heilman

Virginia may be the birthplace of American wine, but success was long tangled in the vines. Around 1609, Jamestown colonists made a failing attempt at winemaking using local grapes. Ten years later, the Jamestown Assembly’s Acte 12 required each male settler to cultivate at least ten grapevines. The American wine industry was on, but it would take nearly 400 years for Virginia wines to fully take root. Winter cold, summer droughts, and native pathogens were the main culprits, perennially thwarting the cultivation of classic European Vitis vinifera vines. Thomas Jefferson, a founding member in 1773 along with George Washington of the Virginia Wine Company, had tried fruitlessly for decades at his Monticello estate. Some success came over a century later when the Monticello Wine Company was the only American wine winner at the 1878 and 1889 Paris Expositions. It took until America’s bicentennial year of 1976 for Virginia’s true viticul-

tural revolution. That’s when Italy’s largest family-run wine company Casa Vinicola Zonin purchased Barboursville Vineyards (17655 Winery Road, Barboursville. Tel: 540-832-3824. bbvwine.com) near Charlottesville. Virginia wine then was anything but fine. The Washington Post called it “barely drinkable.” Gianni Zonin, sixth-generation head of the business and questing for an American wine estate since the early 1960s, was undeterred. Working with fellow viticulturist Gabriele Rausse, Zonin engaged Cornell researcher Konstantin Frank, the father of New York’s Finger Lakes wine region, to find a solution. The ingenious answer was grafting vinifera buds to rootstock from native vines, and in 1978, their hardy engineering produced Virginia’s first vinifera wine. Since then, Virginia has become the nation’s fifth-largest wine producer, with nearly 300 wineries, ten growing regions, seven American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), and dozens of wine trails across the Commonwealth. Much enhanced, too, is Virginia’s reputation, globally recognized for the diverse character, impressive quality and unique accents of its wines. Or as the Virginia Wine Marketing Office calls it, “Like perfect French spoken with a slight southern drawl.” Alongside familiar grapes like Chardonnay, Merlot, and Pinot noir, some 24 varietals include Spain’s aromatic Albariño; Viognier from the Rhone Valley in France; and America’s oldest wine grape, Norton, first cultivated in Richmond with native American vines in the 1820s. The Charlottesville region remains an epicenter of the industry, with Barboursville among some 30 wineries along the Monticello Wine Trail (monticellowinetrail.com). Zonin’s discovery of Barboursville feels predestined. Designed by Thomas Jefferson for Virginia Governor James Barbour, the estate’s mansion opened in 1821, the same year that the Zonin family cultivated their first vines. Today, the mansion’s ruins add to the property’s allure, which includes serving its signature Octagon vintage at the wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton. The historic 1804 Inn is an overnight dream amid the vineyards, along with samplings in the Tuscan Tasting Room and Library 1821, and fine Italian dining at Palladio restaurant. Other local notables include Gabriele Rausse’s eponymous winery (3247 Carters Mountain Rd., Charlottesville. Tel: 434-981-1677. gabrieleraussewinery.com). Acquired in 2011 by AOL founder Steve Case and his wife Jean, Early Mountain Vineyards (6109 Wolftown-Hood Road. Tel: 540-948-9005. earlymountain.com) has attracted national attention including the “#1 Tasting Room in America” in a 2016 USA Readers Poll; 2018 Wine Enthusiast nomination for Best American Winery; and 2019 “Hot Brand” recognition from Wine Business Monthly. Previously with the Inn at Little Washington, Executive Chef Tim Moore draws from the bounty of Central Virginia to create refined but accessible wine-friendly cuisine. South of Charlottesville on the “Sunrise Side of the Blue Ridge,” picturesque Nelson County (nelsoncounty.com/red-white-brews) is an inviting destination for craft beer along the Brew Ridge Trail (brewridgetrail.com) along with wineries, distilleries and cideries. illed as “DC’s Wine Country,” Loudon County (visitloudoun.org/drink/wine-country), an hour west of the nation’s capital, invites discovery of some 40 high-quality producers dotting the area’s magnificent landscapes. That is, if you can escape the five-star trappings, exceptional culinary and wine program included, of the 18-room Goodstone Inn and Restaurant (36205 Snake Hill Road, Middleburg. Tel: 540-687-3333. goodstone.com).

Shoemakers American Grille

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Photo: Jeff Heilman

George Washington's Distillery and Gristmill

Mermaid Winery

Photo: Sarah Hauser for VTC

Set on 265 acres of rolling farmland just outside of historic Middleburg (1787), this former 1768 plantation is now an adults-only (no children under 14) country estate. Tranquility is assured in the six historic guest cottages and 1930’s Manor House, while The Carriage House incorporates four suites along with the casual Bistro & Bar and fine-dining Conservatory restaurant. With a world-class resume that includes engagements with the Belgian royal family, the Belgian embassies in Australia and D.C., and a pair of three Michelin-starred restaurants, Belgian-born Executive Chef Jan Van Haute came to Goodstone with Michelin ambitions of his own. Starting with a salad of micro-greens, vegetables and edible flowers harvested from Goodstone’s onsite garden and greenhouse, his six-course Chef’s Tasting experience is a star-worthy showcase of his talent. Other standouts of my three-hour Virginia-meets-Europe culinary journey included the Leek Soup with King Crab and Seared Squab Breast. Honey-infusions from Goodstone’s beekeeping program also sweeten the menu. Moroccan-born Wine Director and Sommelier Stephen Elhafdi, an acclaimed 30-year veteran of the D.C. scene, oversees the Wine Spectator award-winning wine program, including private tastings and dinners in the 820-label wine cellar. His mix of global, domestic and Virginian wines includes several prized local labels, such as the “La Boheme” Viognier from idyllic Three Fox Vineyards (10100 Three Fox Lane, Delaplane. Tel: 540-3646073. threefoxvineyards.com). Also represented are Greenhill Winery & Vineyards (23595 Winery Lane, Middleburg. Tel: 540-687-6968. experiencegreenhill.com); Sunset Hills Vineyard (38295 Fremont Overlook Lane, Purcellville. Tel: 540-882-4560. sunsethillsvineyard.com), featuring mountain views, a restored Amish barn, and sustainably cultivated 100 percent Virginia wines; and Bluemont Vineyard (18755 Foggy Bottom Road, Bluemont. Tel: 540-554-8439 bluemontvineyard.com), which offers stunning panoramas from its hilltop perch and outdoor patio. Touring Loudon’s wineries by car, a chase of meandering country roads, historic villages and pastoral farms, is essential of course. Stone Tower Winery (19925 Hogback Mountain Road. stonetowerwinery.com) is another scenic choice just south of historic Leesburg, where unique culinary draws include The Conche (1605 Village Market Blvd SE. the-conche.com). Inspired by the early 18th century chocolatemaking technique of “conching,” this boutique restaurant serves chocolate-infused cuisine and other savory fare, plus chocolate-making and mixology classes. Updating a landmark 1888 bank, Lightfoot Restaurant (11 North King St., Leesburg. Tel: 703-771-2233. lightfootrestaurant.com) serves American-inspired cuisine amid hand-painted Venetian chandeliers and vintage poster art. Wine is stored in the bank’s former vault. Middleburg’s other premier property, the 168-room Salamander Resort & Spa (500 North Pendleton Street. Tel: 844-303-2723. salamanderresort.com), has a unique back story. Bruce Sundlun was a decorated WWII bomber pilot whose B-17 was shot down over Nazi-occupied Belgium. After evading capture for months, he was recruited by a resistance group that called him “Salamander” after the mythical fire-walking amphibian. Sundlun later gave his 200-acre farm in Middleburg his former code name, which he then granted to Black Entertainment Television founding partner Sheila Johnson when she purchased the property. In 2005, Johnson chose the name for her hospitality company, Salamander Hotels and Resorts. Renowned for its spa and equestrian programs, her 340-acre Middleburg flagship features fine-dining Harriman’s, where menu highlights

include 48-hour brined “Not Your Mother’s Pork Chop” and small plates from the event-capable Culinary Garden. The Cooking Studio offers classes and the four-person Chef’s Table, while the Gold Cup Wine Bar offers monthly tastings from local wineries. In town, Market Salamander offers private dining, chef-led cooking programs and catering. Favored by celebs including Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Elizabeth Taylor, and Paul Newman, the Red Fox Inn & Tavern (2 East Washington Street. Tel: 540-687-6301. redfox.com) is a local treasure from 1728. peaking of VIPs, few chefs have the perennial star power of Patrick O’Connell, whose three Michelin-starred Inn at Little Washington (Middle and Main Streets, Washington. Tel: 540675-3800. theinnatlittlewashington.com), some 35 miles southwest of Middleburg, is an enduring sensation. Originally from D.C., O’Connell worked in restaurants as a teenager and while majoring in theater at a local college. Inspired by a summer trip to Paris and apprenticeship with an Alsatian chef, he set his sights on culinary fame. His remarkable self-taught success began in 1972 with a small catering business that O’Connell operated for six years with his then romantic partner out of a wood cabin in Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains.

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a culinary tour of virginia

Photo: Latisha Boone for VTC

LOVEwork at Thatch Wintery in Charlottesville

In 1977, their transformation of an abandoned garage in tiny Washington, Virginia into a country inn and restaurant was met locally with some antagonism. It was a bold move for two long-haired gay men in the rural outpost. But just months after opening in January 1978 in an epic blizzard, the rave reviews were in, and O’Connell, later anointed the “Pope of American Cuisine” has never looked back. Since expanded to an English-style village of cottages, guesthouses, and gardens, his “magnificent obsession” remains one of the world’s consummate gastronomic destinations. Another must see, located adjacent to Manassas Battlefield Park, family-run The Winery at Bull Run (15950 Lee Highway, Centreville. Tel: 703-815-2233. wineryatbullrun.com) is a 225-acre farm vineyard that features historic house ruins. Forming Virginia’s western edge, the storied Shenandoah Valley (shenandoahvalleywinetrail.com) is another distinguished American Viticultural Area (AVA) with some 30 vineyards and cideries. Theses include picturesque Rockbridge County, home to family-owned Rockbridge Vineyard (35 Hill View Lane, Raphine. Tel: 540-377-6204.rockbridgevineyard.com), and Halcyon Days (4135 S. Lee Highway, Tel: 540-554-6694. www.halcyondayscider.com), a cidery near landmark Natural Bridge State Park (naturalbridgestatepark.org), the geological wonder once owned by Thomas Jefferson. At Zynodia (115 East Beverley Street. Tel: 540-885-7775 zynodoa.com), a chic farm-to-table winner in the historic mid-Valley town of Staunton, Executive Chef Matt Hull won top honors in the Hazelnut Marketing Board’s 2020 national contest for his Oregon Hazelnut Cacio de Pepe with Crispy Sage. To the south, the Virginia Mountains, Blue Ridge, Heart of Appalachia, and Southern Virginia regions are sprinkled with vineyards. Located in the mountainous Meadows of Dan along the fabled Crooked Road (Route 58, part of Virginia’s Heritage Music Trail), luxu-

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rious Primland Resort (2000 Busted Rock Road. Tel: 276-222-3800. primland.com) is a premier regional escape. Channel your inner Tarzan in the Barn Owl, Cooper’s Hawk, and Golden Eagle treehouses, star gaze in the observatory, and savor culinary treats including the Pig Candy (candied bacon) and moonshine cocktails. Wineries in the nearby artisanal town of Floyd include Chateau Morrisette (287 Winery Rd. SW. Tel: 540-593-2865. thedogs.com) and Villa Appalaccia (752 Rock Castle Gorge. Tel: 540-593-3100. villaappalaccia.com). Plus, moonshine and whiskey at 5 Mile Mountain Distillery (489 Floyd Hwy South. Tel: 540-745-4495. 5milemountain.com). Shifting from the cliffs to the coast, Hampton Roads’ standouts include the esteemed Williamsburg Winery (5800 Wessex Hundred, Williamsburg. Tel: 757-229-0999. williamsburgwinery.com), also offering boutique accommodations and creative dining at Café Provencal. Mermaid Winery (mermaidwinery.com) is a splash for limited production wines and upscale dining at its Norfolk and Virginia Beach locations. Set along a scenic James River bend some 30 minutes equidistant from Williamsburg and Richmond, Upper Shirley Vineyards (600 Shirley Plantation Rd., Charles City. Tel: 804-829-9463. uppershirley.com) is for high-quality varieties and fine Southern cuisine from fourth-generation Richmond chef-restaurateur Carlisle Bannister. The estate neighbors the landmark Shirley Plantation (1613), home of the country’s oldest working farm. For Virginia’s culinary and hospitality operators, the present uncertainty has presented glaring challenges. Undiminished, though, is the power of food and drink to comfort. “Food, you see, is a currency,” wrote Salamander Hotels and Resorts founder Sheila Johnson in a recent blog post. “In a world of isolation and loneliness it can be a currency that spends like few others. What’s more, a lovingly prepared meal has the almost spiritual power to build bridges, mend fences, and open hearts.” More than ever, Virginia is the place to eat, drink, and love.

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THE

CATSKILLS

Photo: Sharan Singh

Nature & Nurture

Kaaterskill Waterfall 38 PASSPORT I SUMMER 2020

by Jimmy Im

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an, I hope you see a bear,” says Tim, the innkeeper at Shandaken Inn, a new property surrounded by miles of countryside in the Catskills (sullivancatskills.com) Tim says black bears are skittish, but sightings are not uncommon, so like a safari, I keep my eyes peeled. Unfortunately, the elusive creatures never appear, but over the past week, I spotted other types of bears. And otters. And cubs. Even the occasional gym rat. It’s not all too surprising. The Catskills, two hours north of New York City, is a magnet to gay travelers, who pack weekend bags and boots for bucolic adventures in the wild. The entire region, sprawling a whopping 3.8 million acres between NYC and Albany, is experiencing its biggest renaissance to date. Small towns that have never been on the gay traveler’s radar now seduce with design hotels, major events like Gay Ski Day in Hunter are attracting LGBT city dwellers, and farm-fresh restaurants are having a moment as notable city chefs unpack their knives here. Lending to the Catskills comeback story is a host of visionary and well heeled New Yorkers buying property and turning them into stylish “Great Outdoors” spots, from hotels to restaurants, that are imaginative and unarguably more inclusive. The recent rise in adventure/outdoor travel, the fastest growing global niche, also contributes to the boon,

Eastwind Hotel Lushna Cabin

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attracting city dwellers who seek a whole lot of nature without sacrificing modern comforts. Ultimately, gay communities in the Catskills are growing and thriving since people are not only visiting, but buying second homes or moving. had my first taste of the Catskills rebirth in Windham (townofwindhamny.com), one of the oldest towns in the region (established in 1798). Windham is small and compact (the historic main street is less than a mile long) with a population hovering around 1,600. It feels like it still belongs in the 18th century, and therein lies the charm. Most of the new development is integrated into the smalltown rural charm, embracing minimal country-inspired design. There’s a handful of small B&Bs in the area, but Eastwind Hotel (5088 NY-23, Tel: 518-734-0553. eastwindny.com), opened 2018, brought a millennial-centric, contemporary flair that, thankfully, doesn’t feel forced. Eastwind dates back to the 1920s as a former bunkhouse for hunters and fishermen, and without compromising the original structure, the new owner elevated the property into a stylish, 19-room hotel. I use the term “hotel” generously since desk staff are gone by dusk, and there’s no room service, TVs, or restaurant, but surprisingly, this is what I loved about Eastwind. It feels casual, like a friend’s vacation home in the country, being that it’s a hybrid hotel, vacation rental, and even “glamping” if you book one of the Scandinavian-style “Lushna” standalone cabins with commanding views of the Catskills mountains. This set-up makes Eastwind favorable for guy getaways and couples who appreciate privacy—and there’s tons of it. The country-meets-modern design skews masculine yet its soft, the architecture comprising natural curves and angles as well as floor-to-ceiling windows that frame Windham Mountain. Natural light flooded the main lounge that transforms into a bar on weekends (also serving breakfast), and an outdoor sauna and a firepit were virtually made for Instagram. Windham is primarily known for the slopes at Windham Mountain, but I discovered something far more distinctive: the food. Fortunately, Eastwind brought a spotlight to the surrounding, family-run restaurants, and each restaurant I dined at could do well on its own merit in NYC. One of my favorite home-cooked breakfasts was at Albergo Allegria (43 NY-296, Tel: 518-734-5560. albergousa.com), a small country inn known mostly for its farm-fresh meals with daily changing menus based on freshness and quality of natural ingredients. I ordered the sampling plate, which had a bit of everything: French Toast with homemade orange reduction, grilled asparagus tossed with fresh dill and slivers of preserved lemons, and their signature omelete stuffed with locally grown mushrooms and paired with gruyere cheese. I also found a whole lot of love in the kitchen at Catskill Mountain Country Store (55510 NY-23, Tel: 518-734-3387. catskillmtncountrystore.com), where my friend and I dined on cheeseburgers, pancakes, and freshly baked cookies. The restaurant uses organic ingredients in all their dishes. The kitschy, adjoined general merchant store is a visual wonderland, selling everything from locallymade jams, maple syrup, fudge, preserves, and baked breads to local organic skincare products and dozens of artisanal, country-themed crafts and gifts to bring back home.

n nearby Hunter, a hip ski town, young travelers have taken over Scribner’s Catskill Lodge (13 Scribner Hollow Road, Tel: 518628-5130. scribnerslodge.com), which has become a destination unto itself. The lodge is responsible for bringing attention to the area

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Roxbury at Stratton Falls-Terrazza of the Titans

The Catskills, two hours north of New York City, is a magnet to gay travelers, who pack weekend bags and boots for bucolic adventures in the wild.

when it opened in 2016. Designed by Brooklyn-based Studio Tack, the re-imagined 1960s property fosters community with events, like wellness weekends, outdoor pool parties, and its bar and Whiskey Lounge, proving the Catskills isn’t all about quiet getaways for escape. Be A Goat (beagoat.org), an adventure travel operator for the LGBT community, organizes the popular Gay Ski Day with party bus transportation from NYC. Two towns over in Roxbury, The Roxbury (2258 County Highway 41, Tel: 607-326-7200. theroxburyexperience.com) was one of the original gay pioneers in the area, thanks to couple Greg Henderson and Joseph Massa, who transformed an old-school motor lodge into a stylish, whimsical hotel. Due to demand in bookings and popularity, The Roxbury recently debuted The Tower Cottages, which includes 8 brandnew accommodations as well as a recently repurposed mansion from a former 1848 estate. Like the rooms at the Roxbury Motel, the Tower Cottages have a unique theme, like “Cinderella’s Gown” with an 18foot ball gown doubling as a bed canopy and a morphing pumpkin, or Galileo’s Gate with a glass-ceilinged observation deck. “Our LGBTQ+ guests are so important to us, and many of them consider The Roxbury one of their go-to’s in the Catskills,” says Henderson. “Especially in the LGBTQ+ community, we’re noticing couples of 35 and above who’ve enjoyed the fast pace of destinations like Fire Island and now seek a slower respite.” Also enticing the LGBT community, especially couples seeking quiet, romantic escapes, is Shandaken Inn (1 Golf Course Road,

Tel: 845-280-2828. shandakeninn.com) in Shandaken, New York. The 12-acre inn along Esopus Creek opened in December 2019, beautifully transformed from a famous, 1920s golf clubhouse. Like the crop of new Catskills properties, Shandaken Inn was gutted, renovated, and restored, though the owner approached the design with a classic-meets-rustic elegance. Think luxurious dark woods and white Frette linens, textured wallpaper, ceramic Portico tiles, one-click fireplaces, modern sleeper sofas and rugs. I appreciated the effortless simplicity and seclusion (Shandaken Inn is one of the more remote properties I checked into). All 15 rooms are cozy and intimate, and there’s a main lounge with wood-burning fireplace and a bar, outdoor pool, a fitness room with Peloton bikes, tennis court, outdoor fire pit, and of course, black bears (should you spot one). It’s places like these that allow me to crack open the book that’s been in my backpack for months, or head outside to stargaze since the clarity is unreal. If you need to connect to civilization, The Clubhouse Restaurant and bar is the stomping ground for locals, second homeowners, as well as other guests, which fosters an eclectic scene. handaken Inn is just a few miles from Phoenicia, a small hamlet that defies expectations of a small hamlet with shops, Phoenicia Playhouse Community Theatre (10 Church Street, Tel: 845-688-2279. phoeniciaplayhouse.com), housed in an 1887 building with live theater and performances, and Brio’s (68 Main Street, Tel: 845-688-5370. brios.net), a dive-y, rough-around-

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nature & nurture: the catskills

Photo: Nico

Hasbrouck House Pool

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nature & nurture: the catskills

Photo: Kira Turnbull

the-edges restaurant that serves the best wood-fired Neapolitan pizza in town. I had three slices touting homemade organic recipes, and they rivaled any great joint in Brooklyn. A mile away, Phoenicia Diner (5681 NY-28, Tel: 845-6889957. phoeniciadiner.com) was recommended by several friends who had been to the Catskills. The Phoenicia isn’t just a diner, it’s a roadside mainstay, loved for its nostalgic atmosphere, which hasn’t changed since the 1980s when it opened. The design is everything I expected for a diner: floor-to-ceiling windows, large booths, fast hearty dishes, but it’s the customers that stood out. They were all in their 20s and 30s, many of whom were gay, dining alone, reading books, drinking coffee. Unlike typical diners, however, fresh ingredients here are sourced from the Catskills and Hudson Valley, and traditional dishes are given an elevated twist, like crispy chicken sandwich with onion-crusted chicken, smoked tomato jam and chipotle aioli. The best burger in the Catskills can be found in Butterfield at Hasbrouck House (3805 Main Street, Tel: 845-687-0736. hasbrouckhouseny.com) in Stone Ridge New York, close to the famed Woodstock and college town New Paltz. The short-rib and sirloin beef was juicy and seasoned, the cheddar was sharp, and the burger was stacked with crisp iceberg lettuce. It wouldn’t have been a reality if Hasbrouck House didn’t open in 2016, after a major restoration to the 18th century, Dutch Colonial mansion it’s housed in. History resonates not only in the 30 guestrooms in converted buildings (like the main house, carriage house, and stable house, as well as a brand-new, two-story cottage), but also the century-old outdoor pool. Hasbrouck House is set on 50 acres, where a hiking trail leads to a beautiful geese-filled lake, and a fire pit blazing in a sprawling yard truly gives sense of place. I adored my suite in the carriage house, where I had a private outdoor entrance, 3 bedrooms, 2 full bathrooms, a large living area, kitchenette, and an outdoor patio. Many new places contributing to the Catskills renaissance are gay owned, like A Black Frame (ablackframe.com), a 1,277-square-foot, two-bedroom and bi-level vacation rental transformed from a 1961 hunting lodge in Kerhonkson. Opened in 2015, the rental was bought by Jeremy Parker, a former DJ in NYC, and his partner, Carlos Breton, who thought they could offset their NYC costs by renting short term, but the bookings went through the roof. “We never anticipated the house turning into what it has become.” The home is furnished with modern appliances like a subzero fridge and thermador stove, and it’s near Minnewaska State Park, a 27,000-

Shandaken Inn

acre nature preserve with waterfalls and hiking trails. “The Catskills are becoming more popular because people are realizing how amazing the state of New York really is,” says Jeremy. ullivan County (sullivancatskills.com) is perhaps the most well-known gay area in the Catskills. It’s home to Catskills Pride, plenty of gay-friendly places like Forestburgh Playhouse, The Launderette, Hurleyville Performing Arts Centre, and a thriving LGBT community (up to 70 percent of businesses in Narrowsburg Village are gay owned). Home to gay artists, hoteliers, entrepreneurs, second-home owners and NYC weekenders alike, Sullivan County is cozy, pastoral, and perhaps most notable for a small, rural town with a population of 80,000: progressive. The town’s “A Day To Be Gay in The Catskills” parade in 2001 truly marked its gay-friendliness and acceptance for all walks of life. In fact, this event was the first Gay Pride event in the Catskills, according to the Sullivan Catskills Visitors Association, and Catskills Pride continues to support the gay community in the region annually. Sullivan County has a community feel, and while it may tout a variety of independent businesses, from rustic restaurants and modern inns to lively bars and noteworthy theater, the county has longbeen known for its sprawling nature. Travelers and locals alike traverse various scenic trails, and in warmer months, they also dot the breathtaking Delaware River for sunbathing and picnics, fishing, kayaking and even party rafting (up to 20 people) with Reber River Trips, a family owned river rafting company since 1947 (3351 Route 97, Tel: 844-525-3086. reberrivertrips.com). “There are so many gay couples moving to Sullivan County,” says Johnny Pizzolato, co-owner of Stickett Inn (3380 Route 97, Tel: 845-557-0913. stickettinn.com), a 4-room property and bar (as well as a 2-bedroom cottage) that gets so many gay guests, it’s practically a gay property. “I think the word is getting around about the natural beauty of the Catskills,” says Johnny. While Stickett Inn is approaching a 10-year anniversary, it’s recently renovated, and every room offers a respective theme (for instance, SOAK has an oversized trough tub; EAT has a full kitchen; and STEAM has a 2-3 person steam shower). “We don’t take ourselves too seriously, and we create a truly fun environment,” Johnny says. Stickett Inn is also one of the only gay bars in Sullivan County, but the fact a gay bar exists in the rural countryside is a true testament to the gay-friendly nature of the Catskills—and yes, it does get plenty of business.

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The Champlain Islands of

Vermont

Photo: jgorzynik

by Marlene Fanta Shyer

Champlain Bridge across Lake Champlain connecting New York and Vermont. 44

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the champlain islands of vermont

ornfields, cottages, cows and country roads are the backdrop for the lake that glitters almost everywhere you look. This unspoiled landscape in the northwest part of Vermont has brought nature-lovers, bike-riders, birders and random vacationers together to create a welcoming gayborhood. “I come here for the peace and the people,” said a vacationer staying at the North Hero House (northherohouse.com) owned by Walt Blasberg and his partner, John Dewane. Walt, originally an insurance executive living a “traditional life” with a wife and kids in New Jersey, says, “I never knew I was gay—until one day I did.” He and his wife split after 29 years and then, in a gay bar in New York City, he met John, 25 years younger and newly arrived from Honduras. John’s mother and cousins followed, went to work at the Inn, and the two have been together here for 25 years. Directly on Route 2, the Inn is posh, has 60 rooms, with views of the lake from most, and a top-tier restaurant. It’s also a favorite haven for gay weddings. Despite its occasional visiting luminaries (Ethan Hawke, Uma Thurman, and Robert Redford have all stayed here) like every destination on the Islands, the atmosphere is Easy Casual. Opposite the Inn is also Walt’s lively Steamship Pier Bar and Grill (northherohouse.com/dining-wine). Go for the lobster roll and key lime pie, while a small band serenades you at dinner Wednesdays and some weekends. Many visitors like to rent a boat and take a Driftwood Tour (www.driftwoodtoursvt.com/cruises). Captain Holly might take you on a boat ride to Burton Island State Park (vtstateparks.com/burton.html), where there are picnic tables, a hamburger joint, and a small swimming beach. On the way, keep your eye out for the mythic sea monster, Champ, living in the deep. No one’s seen him lately, or ever, but you never know. Romantic moonlight tours are also available.

Photo: Guy Banville

Lake Champlain View

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hould you forget some item at home, the best general store you’ve ever been in is a few steps down the road. If you need anything from gluten-free beer to a buggy whip it’s here, and so is lunch. Hero’s Welcome (heroswelcome.com) is a combination deli/bakery/shop that’s adjacent to the post office and also has a gas pump out front. There are benches painted red or blue for Republicans and Democrats, and the store also has a backside. There you’ll find a bargain barn of the store’s clearance items, an ice cream shop, and also kayaks or bikes to rent. Biking is very popular on these Islands because the terrain is flat throughout, traffic is light, and dazzling views await at every turn. Along this same stretch, in a former Catholic church, architect and painter Diane Gayer has created a gallery, Green Tara (greentaraspace.org), featuring the works of Vermont artists. She and her partner, Mary Twitchell, created this small space not just as a gallery, but also as an oasis. Stop in for the art and stay to enjoy some herbal tea or an espresso.

ot far away, look for the sign and turn off Route 2 to the Shore Acres resort (shoreacres.com). It has a nine-hole golf course, two tennis courts, and a dining room with a picturesque view of lawn, lake, and Adirondack chairs. The restaurant’s signature apple island chicken and other dishes can be ordered in small or large portion sizes. The restaurant is open for dinner, but lunch is only for its guests. Route 2 stretches 120 miles through the islands from its southern tip in New York, directly to Montreal at its northern point. Looking east over the water, see the Green Mountains of Vermont, looking

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the champlain islands of vermont

Photo: Walt Blasberg

North Hero Beach

If packing nothing but flip flops and old tees is a draw, so is the possibility of a budget vacation. The Airbnbs are very popular options, and there are campgrounds, rental farmhouses, and reasonable rates. west, New York’s Adirondacks. Twelve miles at its widest, the islands form a long archipelago and include Isle LaMotte, North Hero, South Hero, Grand Isle, and the Alburgh Peninsula. The “Hero towns“ were named for the 260 heroes of the Revolutionary War known as the Green Mountain Boys, who each got a ten-acre thank-you gift after the war. Their names are inscribed in the hallway of the Community Bank in South Hero. With some exceptions, riding or biking along this route means you won’t miss too much. Going north, the spacious public beach is on your right. It’s Sandbar State Park (vtstateparks.com/sandbar.html), open every summer day from 10 A.M to sunset. It looks a lot like the famous George Seurrat painting, “Sunday on La Grande Jatte“ without the parasols but with shade trees and picnic tables. There’s a per person charge of $4 per visit. Two apple orchards along the way are the Allenholm, (Alleholm.com), a seventh generation family-owned orchard that offers tours, and a smaller farm, Hackett’s (hackettsappleorchard.com), most proud of its $1.25 cider doughnuts and 47 different varieties of apple. The orchards are not only about the fruit you can pick yourself in fall, but feature home-made pies, jellies, and anything that could possibly tempt Eve.

Bernie Sanders lives lakeside right on Route 2 as well, directly across from the North Hero elementary school. much older elementary school, the 1814 Block Schoolhouse, is on the same route in Grand Isle. Inside there’s a coal stove, inkwell in each desk, and a posted sign that outlines rules teachers must obey. Number 8: “Any teacher who smokes, uses liquor in any form, frequents pool or public halls, or gets shaved in a barber shop will give good reason to suspect his worth, intention, integrity, and honesty.” Right next door is the historic Hyde Log Cabin (grandislevt.org/municipal-directory/historical-society), moved twice from its original site, it’s now restored and furnished. Built in 1783, Jedediah Hyde Jr. raised ten children in this farmhouse, smaller than the size of a two-car garage. For the next 150 years, Hyde descendants also called it home. Visit both the school and farmhouse for $3 per person. Not far away is Grand Isle Art Works (grandisleartworks.com), filled with temptations offered by 75 Vermont artists, including Jim Holzschuh, its artist-owner. Built about the time John Adams was president, the farmhouse is chockablock with glassware, ceramics,

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the champlain islands of vermont

wood-carvings, alpaca shawls and sweaters, and Vermont-y things like Sarah Rosethal chicken paintings and maple candy. In back is a small weekend café with indoor/outdoor seating. Weekends are also farmers’ market days, Saturdays 10-2 at St. Joseph’s Church and Wednesdays, 3-6 at Rose’s Lima Church, both on Grand Isle. It’s not just about tomatoes, corn, and asparagus, craftspeople display everything from mittens to honey, and homemade pies are very popular. Wally’s, a local lunch spot/bakery, sells its fresh-baked sourdough bread and bagels here too. The Farmers’ Market (champlainislandsfarmersmarket.org) is also a wonderful occasion for a friendly meet-and-greet with the locals. oving south, find The Candy Lab (champlainislandscandylab.com). Albert Reyes and Michael McCarver, who met in New York City and have been married four years, had vacationed here for three years. When they chose to go into business in South Hero, they decided it had to be creative and it had to be fun. Albert, a biochemist, got a certification from Ecole Chocolat in Paris and began creating recipes. Michael focused on growing the fruits and vegetables for developing extracts. The Candy Lab was born in 2017, offering artisanal chocolates. Now there’s also iced coffee with a touch of CBD, gelato, biscuits “big as your head,“ and an even larger assortment of candy. Albert says, “The camaraderie of the community, the small-town wonderfulness here is not what I was used to. It feels more like a community institution.“ What’s the most popular candy at the Candy Lab? “Hands down, bleu cheese and

Red Hat For Sale at Tinkers Barn

Photo: Marlene Shyer

Photo:Courtesy of Snow Farm

Wine Tasting at Snow Farm

honey caramel in dark chocolate,“ Albert says. Also in South Hero, Tinkers Barn (web.vermont.org/ShoppingRetail/Tinkers-Barn-5271) is a memorable antiques/collectibles shop. Two floors of looka-this include a Bernie Sanders doll, furniture, McCoy pottery, a Turkish-French bayonet, 500 hats, Darth Vader masks and its owner, Joanne, who’s been there for 45 years. She inherited the place from her mother and has great conversational skills. Jack, Joanne’s pet chipmunk, runs in and out. She says, “I don’t know its gender because it will bite me if I try to pick it up.“ For good wine, lift a glass at the Snow Farm Vineyard and Winery (snowfarm.com). To get there from Route 2, turn onto South St. for 2.5 miles, then turn right onto West Shore Rd. and continue for 3/4 mile until you see the sign. Sit outside or in the woodsy tasting room and shmooze with the friendly and knowledgeable staff. Cold Vermont winters make for some excellent local wines and Snow Farm is especially proud of its ice wines, which are also dessert wine-contest winners. In Summer, Thursday nights are times for celebration and this is where to find a big party. Bring a blanket or chair and fuel up on Snow Farm wine or beer. There’s food at the Sausage Shack here and a different band every week, usually with crowds as far as the eye can see. In an area this quiet and uncrowded, that’s unique. Some people just can’t help themselves, they get up and dance. The “dance floor“ is the lawn. For a must-see, stop at the winery’s neighbors. Cameras typically come out at nearby White’s Beach (southhero.net/rec/whites-beach), or more accurately, on the other side of the road. Here’s a Hansel and

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the champlain islands of vermont

Photo: Don Landwehrle

Friendly Vermont Cows

Gretel forest filled with birdhouses; it’s a showstopper in rainbow-flag colors. Originally, two neighbors built twenty houses to attract the tree swallows they hoped would become bug-eating tenants. Now there are 800 and most are occupied. Less visible are the dinosaur statues, hidden somewhere back there, between the trees. wallows are just one of 318 species of birds around Lake Champlain, but in recent years, most protected are the ospreys. Federal and state Fish and Wildlife Departments and Vermont power companies have cooperated to add nesting platforms on top of electrical grids to provide a safe, level surface for nests so they can raise their young. They’re part of the unspoiled scenery and easiest to spot along the power lines in Grand Isle, which has a dense osprey population. If birds and politics are any indication, Vermont’s heart is in the right place. It was the first state to introduce civil unions in 2000 and also the first to introduce same-sex marriage by enacting a statute without it being required to do so by a court decision. Doug DiSabito is the Grand Isle City States Attorney and the first openly gay elected attorney in the State of Vermont. He beat a threeterm incumbent and was endorsed by both Republicans and his own party, Democrats. “I don’t like labels. People just accept who you are here,” he says. He and his partner, David FitzGerald, a professional horse trainer and dog groomer, live on a farm with David’s four horses and their four dogs, but no marriage license.

“As an attorney, I’ve seen too many terrible divorces,” Doug says. He and David met at a house party in 2001 and they’ve been together ever since. Formerly a couple and now business partners, Mandy Hotchkiss and chef Phoebe Bright own the Blue Paddle (bluepaddlebistro.com), a bistro decorated with pescatorial art and inventive detail. Artist Rachel Laundon’s fish plaques on the walls surround the bistro’s 60 tables. The menu changes with the seasons and the creative whim of the chef. Dishes range from the popular Paddle Burger to a Lobster Sauté. Another dining option is the Ruthcliffe Lodge (ruthcliffe.com), a casual lakefront restaurant/inn on the Isle of LaMotte. It features an allinclusive menu with an Italian twist. Bread, salad, dessert, included. Remember surf and turf? $35 indoors or outdoors at the lakefront. Dress code here and just about everywhere on these islands is come-as-youare. Buon Appetito. If packing nothing but flip flops and old tees is a draw, so is the possibility of a budget vacation. The Airbnbs are very popular options, and there are campgrounds, rental farmhouses, and reasonable rates. Another plus is the Islands’ proximity to Boston, Burlington, and Montreal. Ferries regularly cross the lake from Grand Isle to Plattsburgh in New York and there’s a “bike ferry“ that leaves from Allen Point in South Hero to Burlington. Both make the crossings in about thirty minutes. When I asked a visitor walking his pug and beagle mix why he likes to come here, he smiled and said, “It’s a whole different world up here.”

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Seaside Splendor and Simple Pleasures

NEWPORT Rhode Island Photo: JJM Photography

by Keith Langston

Claiborne Pell Bridge at Sunrise 50

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newport, rhode island

s I boarded the ferry in Providence, adventure was in the air. Something about the brackish water, the quaint New England homes of Rhode Island and the boats dotting the bay…it all felt straight out of a movie. Granted, that movie was Jaws, but hey, I’ll take any cinematic moment I can. The SeaStreak (seastreak.com) ferry is a great way to get to Newport. The boat can reach speeds of 44 mph and it eliminates all the traffic and parking hassles that come with visiting a busy resort town in the summer. The ride is around an hour, making it comparable to drivetime anyways, so why not do it? The other benefit of taking the ferry is the amazing views. You pass historic lighthouses, small New England towns, and go right under the massive Claiborne Pell Bridge. It felt like my vacation had already begun. Conveniently, the ferry docked directly next to my hotel (I imagined the Barefoot Contessa stepping in and saying, “How easy is that?”) In fact, most of Newport reminded me of the Barefoot Contessa, which made me instantly fall in love with the seaside town. My hotel was the Newport Marriot (marriot.com). The massive hotel, which sits right on the bay, is inspired by Newport’s sailing culture. The giant lobby, and its sloped 10-story-high ceiling filled with skylights, reminded me of a giant sail. The nautical theme carries into the bedrooms as well. The backboard of my bed was a giant sail and the lights and furnishings were all in the traditional New England seaside style. With check-in complete, I ran across the street to a restaurant called Mission, which the locals are obsessed with. It’s a simple burger joint that I can guarantee you is going to end up on Diners, Drive Ins, and Dives. Everything here is made from scratch, and if

Photo: Felix Lipov

The Breakers

PASSPORT I SUMMER 2020

you’re like me and don’t eat beef, they also do a homemade falafel pita that’s simply amazing. Oh, and the fries! Thick-cut, skin-on, crispy, and delicious. After lunch I was off to The Breakers, the most famous of the Newport mansions. Built in 1895 by Cornelius Vanderbilt II, the mansion served as the family’s “summer cottage.” The home is designed in an Italian Renaissance style and has a total of 70 rooms. The mansion was part of what is known as the gilded age, when America’s elite partied in Newport like there was no tomorrow. During my tour of the immaculate summer palace, the guide told me that children used to slide down the grand staircase on sterling silver serving platters. The history and opulence of The Breakers is so immense that you may want to read more about it before your visit at (newportmansions.org/explore/the-breakers) Following my visit to The Breakers, it was time for me to get my very own taste of the Newport highlife. Sean O’Connor and his husband Daniel Cano Restrepo, owners of NewportOUT (NewportOUT.com), an organization dedicated to helping both the local LGBTQ community come together, as well as helping queer visitors have a good time, joined me for an epic dinner at Castle Hill Inn (castlehillinn.com). This historic inn is perched atop a hill overlooking the bay. During the day you can sit on their outside patio, and by night, you can have a candle-lit dinner in the dining room. You can choose between a three-course meal or go for the special Chef’s tasting menu. As this was my first time here, I chose the chef’s menu. I knew this dinner would be a bit different when the waiter promptly returned with three small plates of deconstructed calamari. There

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Photo: John W Corbett.PSNC

newport, rhode island

The Breakers Dining Room

Newport is a fascinating New England town with a big heart, great food, intriguing history, and magnificent seaside setting. was the fried squid, breadcrumbs, and a dollop of homemade aioli, all side-by-side on a dainty platter. The waiter simply said, “amusebouche,” then walked away. People, listen to me, I have never in my life been served an actual amuse-bouche. I was in love with this old-school pomp and circumstance. The courses continued, with plates of cucumber and melon salad, beef fillet with crab, lobster on buttered forbidden rice, blackberries with fresh cream, and peach sorbet atop tea biscuits, among others. By the end of the night, I counted seven courses. It was the opulence and formality I’ve always dreamed of being able to be a part of. When I returned to the hotel, I promptly fell asleep, unable to stay awake after a meal that rich. he next morning I awoke to the sun dappling through the trees outside my window. As the sea breeze gently waved the branches, sunlight moved through the room like ripples. Breakfast at the hotel was wonderful. The Marriot’s restaurant faces the harbor, so you can watch the sailboats coming in and out as you eat your breakfast. Afterwards, I wanted to do some exploring. First stop, the Redwood Library (RedwoodLibrary.org). Founded in 1747, the Redwood is the nation’s oldest continuously operating

community library. It’s filled with historic paintings, like that of George Washington and John Adams, as well as numerous sculptures, my favorite being the one of fictional explorer Robinson Crusoe. The library has about 94% of its original collection, and even has an ancient Egyptian papyrus. The Redwood also has a rotating gallery exhibit. When I visited, the exhibit was of historic ‘cups’ given to the winners of sailing regattas. These trophies, most from the 1800’s, are huge and ornate. Many of them are made of pure sterling silver by Tiffany and Co. and have intricate engravings of Poseidon, sirens, albatross, and other mystical symbols of the nautical world. I can only imagine how much these trophies must be worth. Aside from the historical significance of the library, it’s also a real library, complete with a full selection of books (I even spotted some LGBTQ novels and memoirs) that you can rent out for some great summer reading. I do recommend you spend at least one day in Newport doing absolutely nothing. Many of the inns and guesthouses have adorable wrap-around porches, and most of the hotels have lush patios and pools. Grab a book and a cold drink, sit down, read, and enjoy. Following my visit to the library, I was off to the Newport Art Museum (NewportArtMuseum.org). The building alone is enough to SUMMER 2020 I PASSPORT

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newport, rhode island fter a morning of wandering, I was getting hungry. I made my way to The Chanler (TheChanler.com) for lunch. The Chanler is fantastic. It certainly isn’t cheap, but the food is phenomenal. I had lunch outside on their covered patio, which sits above the Atlantic Ocean. I started with heirloom tomatoes and pistachios, drizzled with herb-infused olive oil, followed by crispy calamari served with a grilled lemon and homemade aioli. After lunch, Keith Chouinard, the Chanler’s director of sales, gave me a tour of some of the inn’s rooms. They’re all gorgeous and opulent, yet comfortable and welcoming. The bathrooms are marvelous, the linens are incredible, and before each guest checks in, the inn handwrites a welcome note, which is placed next to a bag of freshly-baked macarons. Yes, the inn bakes macarons, and that should give you an idea of what a wonderful place it is. I left The Chanler wishing I could spend an eternity on their patio watching the waves below, but I was off to another mansion on a cliff. This time it was Rough Point (Newportrestoration.org), the former home of Doris Duke. If you don’t know who Doris Duke is, it’s time you educate yourself, because she’s a gay icon…the gays just don’t know it yet. Doris was the heiress to the Duke fortune (as in, Duke University). During her life, Doris was eccentric, eclectic, and energetic. The home is filled with historic works of art from all over the world, some of which are over 800 years old. Doris was also a fashion icon, and some of her fanciful outfits are on display. Her bedroom is adorned with purple trimmings and mother of pearl on everything. The dresser, the chair, the mirror, the picture frames, and more, are all plated with mother of pearl. The collection was originally created for the King of Spain, but when you have Doris Duke money, obtaining the mother of pearl-encrusted objects fit for a king is no issue. She also owned two camels at Rough Point…because, why not? Furthering the allure of Doris Duke are the elaborate rumors about her life and death. She had many supposed famous boyfriends, and there’s a heated debate about whether her butler killed her shortly after she made him the executor of her will. But one story is very much true. One night, Doris Duke “accidentally” ran over her (allegedly gay) best friend, killing him, right in the driveway of Rough Point. And that’s only a very small portion of her life story.

Chanler at Night

Chanler Nantucket Suite

or my next two nights in Newport, I headed into the heart of the historic downtown district and stayed at the Inn on Bellevue (InnsOnBellvue.com). The inn is a historic building that is so quintessentially New England you’ll feel like you’ve just stepped into colonial America. One of the coolest and most unique touches to the inn is that all the toiletries are from Beekman 1802 (www.Beekman1802. com). If you have ever read the famous memoir, I Am Not Myself These Days, about the alcoholic New York drag queen who falls in love with a murderous hustler, then you’ll be surprised to hear that Beekman is his company. After his sorted time in the city, Josh Kilmer-Purcell found the love of his life, and the two inherited a farm in upstate New York where they created the luxurious Beekman brand. Another thing I loved about the inn was that it’s windows opened! Don’t you hate how most hotels are like office buildings, with sealed windows and forced-air heating and cooling? When you’re in Newport, you want to open your windows at night and feel that glorious cooling sea breeze wash over you like a lullaby putting you to sleep.

Photo: Warren Jagger

Rough Point

make you gasp. The museum is based in the John N.A. Griswold house, an 1800’s mansion built in ‘stick style’ and looks like a mingling of something Americana and something Hansel and Gretel. The fourstory mansion holds antique artworks, historical paintings of Newport, and even modern and mixed-media pieces. When I visited, they had an exhibit from queer artist Caleb Cole (calebxcole.com). LGBTQ connections were popping up all over Newport.

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newport, rhode island

Photo: Castle Hill Inn

Castle Hill Inn

The Inn offers a light breakfast to all its guests, and on the ground floor of the building resides Picnic (PicnicNewport.com), a local café that bakes fresh pastries every day. Add to this, that just down the street, there’s Annie’s (AnniesNewport.com), a little hole in the wall diner complete with pies in glass cases and a counter where the waitresses talk to you like you’re old friends. So, what other option did I have when I was craving pancakes from the inn, cinnamon rolls from Picnic, and an omelette from Annie’s? Really, I had no choice but to feast on all three! It turns out that eating big was for the best, because I had a long day of sailing ahead of me. Sean from NewportOUT greeted me after breakfast, and we walked to the wharf. That’s where we met Madeleine (CruiseNewport.com). Madeleine is a sturdy lass. She’s a 72-foot schooner that takes sailors out and around the bay. There couldn’t have been a more perfect day for sailing. The wind was in our favor, the sun was shining, and the weather was a perfect 71 degrees. I think the other thing that made it so special was that Newport is all about sailing. To visit Newport and not sail would feel like a wasted trip. Going sailing and getting your sea legs is a way of connecting with the locals. It’s like a rite of passage, and afterwards you’ll be thankful you did. It’s one thing to walk around Newport and see all the sailing shops, the sailing trophies, the paintings, and the framed photos; but it’s another thing to be able to see all of those and say, I did that. With the boat back in port, it was time for lunch. Not even three breakfasts can quench my appetite. Sean told me about a great restaurant that the locals all love called Salvation Café (SalvationCafe.com). If you ask me what Salvation Café is, I couldn’t answer. It’s a weird place that’s part tiki bar, part Southeast Asian restaurant, and part classic American diner. My advice is to just go with it, because it seems to be working. We started with calamari. Rhode Island is actually known for its great calamari because of the squid population off the coast. Then came the Pad Thai. Yes, it’s the kind of restaurant that serves New Englandstyle calamari alongside Pad Thai.

I can promise you one thing though, the second you take a bite of that Pad Thai you won’t care that the place isn’t technically an Asian restaurant…or is it? It might be, but maybe not. Anyways, that was a damn good Pad Thai. Find Salvation and thank me after. spent the afternoon browsing through some of Newport’s local shops. Shore Soap (ShoreSoapCo.com) sells handmade soaps, shampoos, and candles. They have some excellent scents like the Buccaneer, which is a deep and hearty cedarwood, and the Endless Summer, which comes as a sandy yellow and bright pink bar (the colors of the famous movie poster) and has floral scents mixed with a good earthiness. It really does remind you of an endless summer. Breakwater Surf Co. (BreakwaterSurf.com) is another must-visit. Locally designed tees, hoodies, and shorts sit alongside surf gear for anyone looking to catch some waves. If you’re adventurous, after buying yourself a new shirt, rent one of their surfboards and hit the beach.

hat night, I met with the guys of NewportOUT who had teamed up with NewportFILM (NewportFILM.com) for a very special end-of-summer screening. NewportFILM runs outdoor film screenings all around town throughout the summer. On this particular night, NewportOUT and NewportFILM joined forces to hold the first screening of an LGBTQ film as part of the series. The film in question: Gay Chorus, Deep South, a documentary about the San Francisco Gay Men’s Chorus’ tour throughout the South. The film was incredible and the audience loved it. What made it even better was that the screening took place on the back lawn of The Breakers, overlooking the ocean. Food trucks were there to provide dinner and a fresh-squeezed lemonade stand added that extra something special. It was a wonderful way to end the perfect weekend in Newport; a fascinating New England town with a big heart, great food, intriguing history, and a magnificent seaside setting.

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Asheville and The Great Smoky Mountains

Photo: Sean Pavone

by Arthur Wooten

Asheville, North Carolina 56

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asheville and the great smoky mountains

y first trip to the Asheville area and the Great Smoky Mountains was when I was a freshman in high school. That summer, my dad rented one of those simple fold-out campers and hooked it up to our purple Ford Falcon station wagon. The family piled in and headed down south from our home in Andover, Massachusetts to Cape Hatteras, North Carolina and the KOA (Kampgrounds of America), for some beach time. After an exhilarating week of body surfing, fishing, and devouring the freshest seafood you can catch, we packed up and traveled due west, towards the Cherokee National Reservation. During the almost ten-hour haul from seashore to reservation, I sat in the third seat staring out of the back window as the camper and station wagon chugged up into the Smoky Mountains. Whenever we could, we’d stop along the Blue Ridge Parkway and take snaps of the awe-inspiring vistas. My older brother recently relocated to the Asheville area and upon visiting him, it brought back all of those fond memories. I asked local real estate broker Elizabeth Byrd Etheridge of BeverlyHanks Realtors why she lives in this part of the country. “The gentle lush mountains, the cool crisp rivers, as well as my family keep me in Asheville. Our family goes back 5 generations in the Asheville area. I guess you could say it is in my blood.” And hikers, don’t forget that the Appalachian Trail passes through the Asheville area.

e can’t mention Asheville without giving a nod to The Biltmore Estate. In 1888 George Vanderbilt traveled to the Smoky Mountains, fell in love with the area and consequently purchased 125,000 acres of forest and farmland. In 1889 he started construction on his 250-room house, The Biltmore Estate.

Photo: Cholya

High Falls at DuPont State Forest

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Designed by Richard Morris Hunt with a strong French Renaissance influence, when completed it had 4 acres of floor space, 35 bedrooms, 43 bathrooms, and 65 fireplaces. One room after another is extravagantly decorated. The over-the-top castle also features a bowling alley and an indoor swimming pool. Upon Vanderbilt’s death, his wife sold approximately 87,000 acres of forest to the government, which eventually became the creation of the Pisgah National Forest. There were still many acres left for the estate and Fredrick Law Olmstead, of New York City’s Central Park fame, designed the gardens and grounds. In 1930, this private house went public for all to enjoy. But Asheville and the Great Smoky Mountains are much, much more than just the Biltmore. So much so that it draws more visitors each year than Yellowstone, Yosemite, and the Grand Canyon combined! Within the Pisgah National Forest is the Cradle of Forestry historic site, the first school of forestry. There’s a comprehensive Museum center and from there you can walk the miles of peaceful trails dotted with historic buildings and even an old logging train. On top of Mount Pisgah, at an elevation of 5,000 feet, you’ll discover the Pisgah Inn which offers casual, simple lodging clinging to the side of the mountain. Each room has its own breathtaking view. The restaurant also offers spectacular vistas. Even President Obama and the First Lady fell in love with the Asheville area when they stayed at the Grove Park Inn back when he was prepping for a Presidential debate with Senator John McCain. If you happen to visit during the Christmas holidays, don’t miss their famous gingerbread competition. The creations will astound you. Also, quite beautiful is the North Carolina Arboretum. Special exhibits, hiking trails, birdwatching, and an extraordinary bonsai collection are just a sampling of what the Arboretum has to offer, and around the holidays, the light shows are magical.

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asheville and the great smoky mountains

Photo: Margaret Wiktor

Hiking near Asheville

Asheville is a warm, creative, artsy, spiritual and rejuvenating city with so much to offer that it would take weeks, maybe months, to explore it all. or those who enjoy an occasional libation, there are approximately 100 local beers offered in Asheville, and they have more breweries per capita than in any other city in the US. If you prefer wine, close to 60 wineries call the mountains of Western North Carolina home. They range from small family-owned businesses to the famous Biltmore Winery. If you’re up for a side trip to Bryson, about an hour and a half drive northeast from Asheville, you’ll discover the Bryson Wine Train. Similar to the Napa Wine Train in California, you’ll travel along the railroad in a deluxe first-class car and enjoy a 4-course meal paired with excellent wines. My dear friend Sally Ekaireb, a holistic counselor, is a recent transplant from New York City. I asked Sally to share with us some of her favorite things to do in her new home town. “NC [the Asheville area] is home to over 250 waterfalls so if one visits in the summertime, going to Triple Falls in DuPont Park is a great hike and swim combination.” Other hikes in the Asheville area that Sally loves include the Craggy Gardens off the Blue Ridge Highway. As she said, “If one visits when the flowers are in bloom, the views are stunning.” She also suggested, “One can head up to the Hot Springs area and after a hike, get a massage and bathe in the hot tubs.”

hen it comes to art and culture, Ashville has a vast array of wonderful options for visitors. If you’re a fan of classical music there’s the Asheville Chamber Music series. As their slogan says, “Bringing World-Class Chamber Music to Western North Carolina for 67 years.” Or if you prefer theatre, the Diana Wortham Theater offers staged productions as well as concerts and dance performances. There’s also the North Carolina Stage Company, a professional equity theatre located in downtown Asheville. And there’s the beloved Montford Park Players offering Shakespeare in the park, May through September at the outdoor Hazel Robinson Amphitheatre. All the performances are free. It seems as though each trip I make to Asheville I happily end up stopping by the Southern Highland Craft Guild Folk Art Center. Located on the Blue Ridge Parkway, it highlights the craftsmanship of Southern Appalachians who do woodworking, pottery, jewelry, and basket weaving. Objects range from simple woodcut print notecards to magnificent carved furniture, like dining tables and rocking chairs. Most pieces are nature-oriented, organic, and thus made from natural materials. They are all quite extraordinary. The Asheville area has also evolved into a foodie’s dream destination.

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I’ve chosen to highlight three very different and successful restaurants. Being a New England boy, I was thrilled to discover The Lobster Trap. The restaurant is casual, friendly and has been packing them in for almost 15 years. As owner Amy Beard shared with me, “I got The Lobster Trap started, but Mike McCarty runs the show and is responsible for our menu, sustainability, etc.” But it’s not just lobster, there’s an array of super fresh oysters, mussels, clams, crab, and their award-winning Sunburst trout. When asked what patrons love the most, Amy replied, “Our best sellers, Oysters on the half shell and our Wicked Good Maine Lobster.” The lobster is steamed in the shell and served with corn and new potatoes. Caught sustainably by Captain Tom Martin of the Lucky Catch, the beauties are flown down from Maine, and as the restaurant says, “From Tom's trap to our trap to your trap.” For a super laid-back atmosphere, Pack’s Tavern can’t be beat. Mary Evans, head of marketing and events shared with me, “We have some great burgers and a wood-fired oven for pizza and hot subs.” If you’re looking for something a little more upscale try the Chestnut. Taking “farm to table” to the next level, Chestnut offers new spins on old classics, and they take just as much pride in their craft cocktails. Their charcuterie consists of three types of cheeses, and locally sourced meats, most of which are smoked right in their own building. With the board comes local greens, pickled onions, lusty monk mustard, apple butter, and a sliced French Baguette. Vanessa Salomo, business development director for Westmorland & Sully told me, “Our dinner menu changes monthly. Our lunch

Photo: Zak Zeinert

The Biltmore Estate in Asheville

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and brunch items change quarterly.” When asked what patrons love the most? “For dinner I would say that our Petite Filet is a huge hit; for lunch, the Reuben or burger; and for brunch, eggs benny.” Elizabeth, of Beverly-Hanks Realtors, added: “My favorite restaurant is the Well Bread Bakery. They serve a great lunch with many healthy sides to choose. It has a laid-back atmosphere and the staff is always super friendly.” hile Speaking to Asheville native Ned Tipton, a gay, church musician who has traveled the world and lived in Atlanta, Paris, Los Angeles, and now New Canaan, Connecticut, I asked him what it was like for him, growing up here. “Growing up gay in Asheville was a very lonely experience, to say the least. The Asheville of my youth was very much described in Thomas Wolfe’s Look Homeward, Angel. Not in the gay sense, but in that it was very much a small-ish Southern city, with all of the prejudices against “the other.” I sensed, early on, that there was, somewhere, an environment where differences were celebrated, rather than shunned. In retrospect, I retreated into music, but I had some talent in that area, and was able to forge my own path. But I always felt different, one of those “others.” I couldn’t tell anyone about it, much less be myself,whatever that meant.” A note regarding Thomas Wolf and his novel Look Homeward, Angel - the town that Mr. Wolfe creates in the novel is called Altamont but it’s actually Asheville. In fact, his homestead is now a Memorial State Historic Site.

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asheville and the great smoky mountains

Photo: Jo Crebbin

Lake in the Smoky Mountains

I wondered if Asheville is very different today and posed that question to Ned. “By golly, yes. While I was away (for many years), Asheville opened up. Friends and family told me that things were different. But I couldn’t really believe it until I had the opportunity to experience it. The “old guard” still exists, and I even have the feeling that Asheville is even less diverse, racially speaking, than it was when I was growing up, but I get the sense that everyone is, for the most part, able to be who they truly are.” I also asked him if there were any bars, clubs or lounges that he recommended. “The standard is still O. Henry’s, and it has been for years. The new location is a welcoming place (the staff, ambiance, and mix of ages/backgrounds), and I go there every time I’m back in town. I love Asheville!” The oldest gay bar in all of North Carolina, O’Henry’s began in 1976 as a sandwich shop/café in downtown Asheville. In the late 80s and early 90s, the basement was the location of gay weddings and funerals. They moved to their current location in the early 2000s, but it has maintained some of the original fixtures, including the 19th century centerpiece bar that was originally a fixture in the Biltmore Village Pharmacy in the late 1800s. Derick Boyd purchased O’Henry’s in 2014. “We still have active members and customers that were a part of the beginnings of O.Henry’s. And we have young people who have just come out and are just starting to find their way around ‘gay Asheville.’ O.Henry’s has always been a safe place for the LGBTQ community. We continue that tradition and welcome anyone in the community. Our customers truly represent the diversity of Asheville. Some of the older customers lovingly remember when O.Henry’s was called the ‘Cheers of Asheville.’

It still has that kind of neighborhood feel to it. We really do welcome anyone who wants to be here.” What’s also terrific is that the bar continues to be community-oriented and hosts several fundraisers for various organizations throughout the year. In the back of O’Henry’s is the industrial dance bar, The Underground, which hosts the popular "Total Gold Dance Your Ass Off ” parties the first Friday of every month. Other special events include jazz & blues music to unforgettable cabaret and burlesque style shows, to goth nights. The Underground is also available to rent for special occasions. Another Asheville venue, Scandals, is well known for their weekend drag shows. If you’re visiting in the fall, make sure to participate in Blue Ridge Pride which celebrated their 11th Annual Blue Ridge Pride Festival & Welcoming WNC Procession on September 28, 2019. While commemorating the 50th anniversary of Stonewall, Asheville City Soccer celebrated pride at every home game during the month of June. There was also a Stonewall History Seminar on Trans participation at the Mandel Rodis Office, WNCAP exhibited panels of the AIDS Memorial Quilt at the Masonic Temple, and the Asheville Gay Men’s Chorus performed their Stonewall Commemorative Concert “Out Loud and Proud.” Pride in Ashville is young and growing; focused and vital. I asked Elizabeth if she thought Asheville was gay friendly. “The Asheville area is indeed gay friendly. If we had a city flag it would be a rainbow!” Asheville is a warm, creative, artsy, spiritual and rejuvenating city with so much to offer that it would take weeks, maybe months, to explore it all.

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asheville resources OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES The Appalachian Trail stretches from Maine to Georgia and is an essential and beautiful “must experience. www.hikingin thesmokys.com/appalachiantrail.htm The Blue Ridge Parkway consists of 469 miles of road that weave throughout 29 counties of Virginia and North Carolina. www.blueridgeparkway.org The Cradle of Forestry, (11250 Pisgah Highway, Tel: 828-877-3130) is located in the Pisgah National Forest. Here you can learn about the first school of forestry in the museum and then if you like, walk miles of peaceful trials; it’s great for birders too. www.exploreasheville.com

The Great Smoky Mountains get their name from the mist/fog that lingers between mountain tops, thus looking like smoke. Often the clouds dissipate as the day warms up, revealing nature at its best. www.smokymountains.com/park Hot Springs, (315 Bridge Street, Hot Springs, Tel:828-622-7676). The best place in the area to enjoy natural hot springs. www.nchotsprings.com Pisgah National Forest is home to 500,000 acres of the forest for hiking, driving, camping, picnicking, and/or mountain/road biking. www.exploreasheville.com Triple Falls in DuPont Park, (DuPont State Recreational Forest, Cedar Mountain, Tel: 828877-6527). Along these trails you’ll discover several waterfalls and an unexpected covered bridge. www.hikewnc.info ART & ENTERTAINMENT Asheville Chamber Music, (Unitarian Universalist Congregation of Asheville, 1 Edwin Place, Tel:828-575-7427). One of the oldest chamber music organizations in the United States. www.ashevillechambermusic.org Asheville Gay Men’s Chorus entertains, advocates for LGBTQ rights, and connects the whole area through their choral excellence. www.ashevillegaymenschorus.org

Chestnut Brunch North Carolina Stage Compny, (15 Stage Lane, Tel: 828-239-0263). Enjoy the classics like Romeo and Juliet as well as their visiting artist’s series and more. www.ncstage.org ATTRACTIONS The Biltmore Estate, (One Lodge Street, Tel: 800411-3812). Welcome to America’s largest home. www.biltmore.com Museum Of The Cherokee Indian, (589 Tsali Boulevard, Cherokee, Tel: 828-497-3481). Here you’ll find an extensive museum honoring the Cherokee that includes exhibits, events, and celebrations. www.cherokeemuseum.org Grove Park Inn Gingerbread Competition. 290 Macon Avenue, Tel:800-438-5800. From late November to early January enjoy mindboggling gingerbread creations at the Grove Park Inn’s competition. www.romanticasheville.com/gingerbread North Carolina Arboretum, (100 Frederick Law Olmsted Way, Tel: 828-665-2492). Here you can enjoy walking trails, education programs, an elaborate bonsai collection, and beautiful gardens. www.ncarboretum.org

Diana Wortham Theater, (Biltmore Ave, Tel:828257-4530). Dance companies, theatre, Broadway revivals, and even the circus perform at the Wortham. www.dwtheatre.com

Southern Highland Craft Guild Folk Art Center, (Milepost 382 Blue Ridge Parkway, Tel: 828-523-4110). Celebrating Southern Appalachian artists, the Folk Art Center truly has something for everyone. www.southernhighlandguild.org/folk-art-center

Montford Park Players at the Hazel Robinson Amphitheatre, (92 Gay Street). Free Shakespeare in the park. Bring your picnic basket, bug spray, and an umbrella. www.asheville.com/shakespeare-in-the-park

Thomas Wolfe’s Memorial State Historic Site, (52 North Market Street, Tel: 828-253-8304). Thomas Wolfe is probably best known for his classic novel Look Homeward, Angel, which went on to become a hit Broadway play. Wolfe’s historic Victorian

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Photo: Jared Kay

Craggy Gardens, (Blue Ridge Parkway Visitor Center, Tel: 828-298-5330). Craggy Gardens is approximately 24 miles from Asheville on the Blue Ridge Parkway and offers one of the most dramatic viewpoints along the drive. www.blueridgeheritage.com

homestead is open for house tours. www.wolfememorial.com RESTAURANTS Chestnut, (48 Biltmore Avenue, Asheville, Tel: 828-575-2667). Creative cuisine and craft cocktails located in Downtown Asheville and close to many of the arts and film centers. www.chestnutasheville.com The Lobster Trap, 35 Patton Avenue, Asheville, Tel: 828-350-0505. This delectable seafood restaurant practices sustainable fishing techniques. www.thelobstertrap.biz Pack’s Tavern, (20 South Spruce Street, Asheville, Tel: 828-225-6944), Friendly, casual place where the locals rave about their BBQ. www.packstavern.com Pisgah Inn Dining, (408 Carolina Ave, Waynesville, Tel: 828-235-8228). Down home Appalachian comfort food with unbeatable views. Try their famous Sorrell’s Creek Farm Whole Mountain Trout, filleted tableside if desired. www.pisgahinn.com The Well Bread Bakery and Café, (6 Boston Way, Asheville, Tel: 828-774-5307). Laid back and super friendly - great place for lunch. www.wellbredbakery.com ACCOMMODATIONS The Biltmore Village Inn Bed and Breakfast, (119 Dodge Street, Asheville, Tel: 828-274-8707). Starting at $249 a night, it’s luxury and proximity to the Biltmore Estate that sets the Village Inn apart from other accommodations in Asheville. Many rooms have canopy beds and working fireplaces. www.biltmorevillageinn.com Four Points by Sheraton Asheville, (22 Woodfin

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Street, Asheville, Tel: 828-253-1851). Conveniently located downtown, many opt for Four Points over the pricier Biltmore. Plus Chop House Restaurant is a local favorite. Rooms range from $145 -$164. www.marriott.com/hotels Cedar Crest Inn (674 Biltmore Avenue, Asheville, Tel: 828-252-1389). $165 - $295 and up. Just a mile east of the River Arts District which houses 125 plus live art studios and four miles north of The Blue Ridge Parkway, Cedar Crest offers 35 years of experience making it the longest running B & B in Asheville. www.cedarcrestinn.com Grand Bohemian Asheville Autograph Collection, (11 Boston Way, Asheville, Tel: 828-5052949). Rooms range from $228 - $ 251 and up. From its Tudor style exterior to lodge-like common areas, the rooms have a touch of class in the Grand Bohemian. www.marriott.com/hotels The Grove Park Inn, (290 Macon Avenue, Tel: 855-680-3239). A 4-star resort with 513 rooms, prices start at $239 and soar to $1,664 per night. What is guaranteed are phenomenal views, 5 restaurants and during the winter months the National Gingerbread Competition has all entries and winners out on display for the public to enjoy. www.omnihotels.com/hotels/ashevillegrove-park Hotel Indigo Asheville Downtown, (151 Haywood Street, Asheville, Tel: 828-239-0239). Rooms are $183 - $196 and up. A boutique hotel with a great location, within walking distance of downtown restaurants and bars. They offer eclectically designed rooms and its dog friendly! www.ihg.com KOA. For those wanting to be closer to nature by

The Lobster Trap sleeping in tents, campers, or RVs, there’s the KOA (campgrounds of America). www.koa.com Misterb&b. Whether it’s a room shared in a house or the entire house itself, you can find accommodations with guaranteed gay friendly hosts. www.misterbandb.com/s/ashevillenc-united-states Pisgah Inn, (Blue Ridge Parkway Milepost 408.6, Tel: 828-235-8228). Clinging to the side of, and the peak of Mount Pisgah, each room faces out towards the Blue Ridge Mountains, offering breath-

taking views. The Inn is open seasonally from April 1 through October 31. Also, on the premises is the Pisgah Inn Restaurant. www.pisgahinn.com REAL ESTATE Elizabeth Byrd Etheridge at Beverly-Hanks Realtors. Elizabeth is available to assistance with any of your real estate needs. BTW: she was my brother’s broker for his gorgeous mountaintop house. www.beverly-hanks.com GAY CLUBS AND VENUES Blue Ridge Pride. Everything you need to know about celebrating gay pride in the Asheville area. www.blueridgepride.org O. Henry’s, (237 Haywood Street, Tel: 828-2541891). The oldest gay bar in all of North Carolina, O’Henry’s began in 1976 as a sandwich shop/café in downtown Asheville. www.ohenrysofasheville.com Scandals, The Grove House Entertainment Complex (237 Haywood Street). Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays at 12:30 A.M. Scandals offers their legendary drag shows. www.scandalsnightclub.com The Underground, 237 Haywood Street,Tel: 828254-1891. Industrial dance bar in the back of O.Henry’s. www.ohenrysofasheville.com WINERIES The Biltmore Winery, 1 Approach Road, Tel: 800624-1575. Boasting of being America’s most visited winery! They have over 50 varieties to offer as well as ongoing tastings and food pairings. www.exploreasheville.com

Pack’s Tavern

Bryson Wine Train, (45 Mitchell Street, Bryson City, Tel: 800-872-4681). Enjoy a fist class vintage railroad car experience with a 4-course meal and wine pairing. www.gsmr.com/uncorked

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travelbound Hot Type for Savvy Travelers by Jim Gladstone Yes, the visually arresting pages of the new coffee table tome, New York Club Kids (Damiani. $55. www.waltcassidy.com) are seductive and nostalgic, their photos and ephemera harkening back to the early 1990s glory days of storied nightspots including Tunnel, Palladium, Limelight and Sound Factory. But it’s the lucid, unexpectedly tender prose of Walt Cassidy (aka WaltPaper), one of the book’s primary photographers and its overall curator, that make this a volume of queer history to treasure. Cassidy salvages the vibrant, creative and collaborative spirit of selfexpression and self-preservation that’s been all but buried by outraged, disdainful old clips from Geraldo and Donahue and the two Party Monster films—a documentary and its fictionalized remake—which focused on the notorious murder of Angel Menendez by charismatic ringleader Michael Alig. These sensationalist artifacts have come to dominate public perception of the entire club kid phenomenon. Cassidy, who grew up in rural Missouri and Norfolk, Virginia and moved to New York in 1991 at 19, offers an often joyful counternarrative. A bullied, genderqueer kid with an artistic bent, he remembers arriving in New York and discovering “a full spectrum…to become acquainted with and experience…each cultural representation just as vibrant as the next.” But as he embraced his queer identity, Cassidy didn’t channel it into sex: “not because I had any shame or guilt about being gay, but because I, like most people, was still grossly uninformed about the details of HIV and AIDS. I wasn’t sure if it could be transmitted from kissing someone. Luckily, beauty is more powerful than fear…It would be some time before I would come to fully explore the sexual opportunities that the city offered; instead I focused my time and energy on dressing up, dancing, making new friends, and expanding my mind.” In Later: My Life at the Edge of the World (Graywolf. $16. www.paullisicky.com), the artfully structured new memoir by Paul Lisicky, we encounter another young man exploring his identity in the early 1990s. Rather than downtown Manhattan, Lisicky’s newly adopted home was Provincetown, another gay mecca—“more San Francisco than San Francisco” he calls the local cruising scene—where he landed after winning a residency at the Fine Arts Work Center shortly after finishing his graduate studies in creative writing. Like the club kids’ New York, Lisicky’s Land’s End vibrates with the tension between pleasure and danger; he’s living in a place where it’s free to embrace one’s sexuality, but at a time when an unprotected embrace can turn perilous. And when the fear of that peril marked young men for life. Recalling these years in dozens of short individually titled chunks of prose, Lisicky examines aspects of his self and his experiences as if turning a quartz crystal in his hands, watching each facet glint and reflect off the others. The book’s final section, called “Afterlife, Notes” takes place in 2018. You don’t expect a memoir to have a twist ending, but this one does: After years of safe sex, tainted by fear, Lisicky goes on PrEP and the thoughts this experience prompts are both haunting and provocative: “When people in their twenties swallow this pill, they take a different story into their body,” Lisicky observes “…Now that I have freedom, it’s more complicated than I ever expected it to be.” In gorgeous sentences that hum with a working class Scottish burr, Douglas Stuart’s debut novel, Shuggie Bain (Grove Atlantic. $27. www.douglasdstuart.com), etches an indelible portrait of impoverished family life on the margins of Glasgow society in the 1980s, centered on a sensitive gay boy with spat-upon aspirations of becoming a hairdresser. Shuggie’s drug-addicted mother, Agnes, is a beguiling, infuriating lost soul, like one of the obscenely comic characters from Irvine Welsh’s Trainspotting, but infused with an unexpected measure of beauty and compassion. It’s the most textured and affecting chronicle of hardscrabble family life in the UK since Angela’s Ashes. Russ Thomas’ Firewatching (G.P. Putnam’s Sons. $26. www.russthomasauthor.com ), is the promising first installment in a planned series of police procedurals featuring Detective Sergeant Adam Tyler, an openly gay cold case reviewer in Sheffield, England whose bullheadedness and self-doubt are in constant, compelling tension. Things get off to a cracking start when, the morning after Tyler picks up an alluring younger man— “all defined cheekbones and chiseled jaw, a triangle for a torso…a face with skin so pale he might have just stepped off the set of the latest teenage vampire movie”—at the local pub, he learns that his trick is a suspect in the grisly murder and arson case Tyler has just been assigned. Was the hook-up a coincidence, or Is the seductive Oscar a twink fatale who’s one step ahead of the game, intentionally complicating the police’s case by sleeping with the investigator? That’s just one of a rumpled bedsheet’s worth of wrinkles in Thomas’ plot, which touches on decades of Daddy Issues for both Tyler and Oscar, not to mention the departmental politics of a small police department in a blue collar town where everyone knows everyone else’s business. Things move at a lively pace as more fires are set, a second corpse is discovered and a series of initially inexplicable scenes featuring two bickering old ladies gradually merges with the main narrative thread. In addition to choreographing his mystery’s twists with admirable skill and genuine surprises, Thomas brings keen psychological nuance to his portrayal of a gay man whose work environment is marked by aggressively straight machismo. The author also seeds this particular story with inklings of tales yet to come: Tyler’s late father was also a cop whose reputation was ruined by an undescribed scandal; his new deputy is a young Muslim woman, faced with workplace indignities Tyler can relate to; and the most senior female officer on the force just happens to be our protagonist’s godmother. Firewatching feels a bit overstuffed if considered as a standalone story, but its excesses will provide choice kindling as Detective Tyler blazes a trail through further volumes.

AIRPLANE READ OF THE MONTH A short, sparkling, multi-voiced debut novel by Celia Laskey, Under the Rainbow (Riverhead. $27. www.celialaskey.com) reads with terrific speed and clarity, even as complexly shaded emotions bubble up beneath its high concept surface. After a small Kansas city has been declared “The Most Homophobic Town in America,” members of a national queer task force commit to moving there for two years, hoping to generate change through outreach and example. In each chapter, Laskey ventriloquizes a different character, from the local Dad who starts to recognize his long buried sexuality, to the straight daughter of activist lesbian mothers, to the non-monogamous gay couple from New York who find life in mid-America deeply unsettling to their marriage. The characters weave in and out of each others’ stories in a way that feels natural and casual rather than literarily contrived. Sweet, funny and moving, Laskey’s clean style and her characters’ intermingled lives read like a compact contemporary spin on Tales of the City. 64

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LEA DELARIA • EDMUND WHITE • TRAVEL GIFTS AND GADGETS GREAT VEGETARIAN & VEGAN RESTAURANTS • WORLD EATS CHICAGO

Photo: Subbotina Anna

BUSINESS CLASS

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Duck Duck Goat Chef Izard

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worldeats CHICAGO, ILLINOIS by Kelsy Chauvin ppetites run big in Chicago. So it makes sense that hearty meals are something of a trademark, whether it’s a melty deepdish pizza, Chicago-style hot dog piled high, or even a spicy tofu scramble loaded with veggies. This is not to say that dining out in Chitown isn’t refined. Rather, this town has as much sophisticated dining as any metropolis. In fact, gastronomy here may have more to offer than some bigger cities, thanks to chefs who learned their crafts from the greats, then dared to create their own variations in the Second City. Some are still making names for themselves, while others are veterans. Some have even earned fame on Top Chef, Iron Chef, or via their own culinary enterprises, or full-on empires, like the Frontera brand founder Rick Bayless. Any way you slice it, Chicago-bred chefs are unstoppable. Yet Chicago also is filled with long-running neighborhood favorites that have delighted diners for decades. Those classic restaurants are well worth a bite too. Here’s a rundown of where to eat in Chicago, from the beloved standards, to adventurous newcomers, to contemporary mashups that feel like they were always there.

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tarian establishments. Outfitted like a compact diner with wood-framed booths, Formica tables, and a slim counter, the Chicago Diner seems generic at first. Then you read the menu, and see the brilliant veg-only dishes tempting patrons to forget meat and come to the strictly-plants side of eating. The restaurant emphasizes comfort foods as much as it promotes its slogan: “Meat free since ’83.” The diner is famous for the yummy Radical Reuben (whose name is trademarked), made with

CHICAGO DINER Stroll past this unassuming restaurant on busy Halsted Street and you may never realize it’s one of the country’s best vege-

Chicago-born Stephanie Izard was a culinary star well before her 2008 Top Chef win. Her new-American Girl & the Goat, opened in the Fulton Market district in 2010, only solidified her reputation as she racked up a coveted James Beard Award, among other accolades. She followed that venture soon after with Little Goat Diner, her inventive comfort-classics eatery across the street. For her next act, Izard chose a bolder route. She opened Duck Duck Goat, and introduced the neighborhood to her Asian-

inspired innovations. Her menu soars with Chinese classics like chicken chow fun, short-rib wonton soup, and dim sum galore, building bites with house-made dough and hand-pulled noodles. Izard pushes her Chinese-cuisine skills further by melding them with her trademark ingredient, so don’t miss her goat-and-duck springrolls, goat-belly lo mein, and spicy Xi’an goat-slap noodles. Crisp cocktails and smooth desserts bookend Duck Duck Goat’s satisfying dishes. The vibe here evokes quintessential flavors of Chinatowns the world over. It’s designed like a series of storefronts outfitted with old photographs and mirrors, patterned wallpaper, tasseled lamps, velvet cushions, and Asian antiques. The décor is so charming it seems almost to make dishes like crab Rangoon and Peking duck even more flavorful. 857 W. Fulton Mkt. Tel: 312-902-3825. www.duckduckgoatchicago.com

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Dim Sum at Duck Duck Goat

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Chicago Diner

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Split Rail Chef Zoe Schor

“corned-beef seitan,” grilled onions, peppers, sauerkraut, vegan Thousand-Islands dressing, and vegan cheese on marbled rye. Its award-winning vegan shakes, with flavors like carrot cake and cookie dough, are alone a reason to pop by. The innovations of original Chef Jo

Kaucher, who’s run the Boystown anchor with husband Mickey Hornick since the beginning, are the bewildering ways she can create textures and flavors that could easily turn carnivores into vegans. Poutine, wings, gyros, country-fried steak, burgers—they’re all there, meat-free, and

available as vegan or gluten-free dishes. In case you’re ready to learn some of Kaucher’s tricks, you can always buy her 2002 and 2013 Chicago Diner cookbooks. (FYI there’s a second Chicago Diner in Logan Square.) 3411 N. Halsted St. Tel: 773-935-6696. www.veggiediner.com

Photo: Mistey Nguyen

PASSEROTTO

Passerotto

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No, it’s not Italian. But let Passerotto’s name be the first lesson about Chefowner Jennifer Kim’s north-Chicago restaurant: be hungry for surprises. Named Eater Chicago’s 2018 Chef of the Year, Chef Kim swung wide her new restaurant’s doors in May of that year in LGBTQ-centric Andersonville. The North Clark Street eatery made an instant splash with unique, ever-changing menus rooted in traditional Korean gastronomy injected with lively twists. Yes, there are Kim’s elevated homestyle versions of Korean barbeque (snag the short ribs, or kalbi, if it’s available), fried chicken with honey-gochujang glaze, and her mother’s kimchi and other banchans (small side dishes).

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The chef’s distinct-style comes through in dishes that channel her Midwestern roots and love for coastal Italian food, as reflected in the restaurant’s Italian name that translates to “little sparrow.” Enjoy dishes like ddukbokki (fried rice cakes) with lamb ragu, baby octopus with Italian white beans, or seared pork belly with redonion agrodolce. Kim has taken extra steps to extend her culinary success by directly supporting women and LGBTQ community members in the restaurant industry, and has held small-business workshops to educate them on real-world pursuits like drafting business plans. She’s also an advocate for equality in the kitchen, becoming an active voice to curb misogyny, racism, and abusive chefs. It’s great for the community, and a way for Passerotto patrons to feel good while filling up on fabulous food. 5420 N. Clark St. Tel: 708-607-2102. www.passerottochicago.com

ined comfort foods that aren’t overly executed, just brilliantly prepared. Schor’s classics are crafted with lasersharp attention to detail. The house specialty fried chicken, for example, starts with organic birds sourced from a sustainable, free-range farm. Each piece is battered in savory spices, fried up to flaky crispiness, then served with a choice of seven homemade sauces. (There are even gluten-free and vegan versions, and zingy house pickles.) Sides like loaded mashed potatoes and braised collard greens complement the entrées as much as the solid cocktail program. In fact, the libations are so good, Schor and her business partner Michelle Szot are working to open the new bar Dorothy in the big cellar beneath Split-Rail. Look for it in late 2020, and meanwhile, support this LGBTQ-owned business by enjoying a tipple at the long bar upstairs. 2500 W. Chicago Ave. Tel: 773-697-4413. www.splitrailchicago.com

SPLIT-RAIL There’s something cool brewing in Chicago’s Ukrainian Village, a compact residential neighborhood northwest of downtown (sometimes lumped in with West Town.) The area’s culinary and cultural expansion of late has seen a tantalizing array of eateries open up. On the hot strip that is West Chicago Avenue, come hungry to Split-Rail, helmed by Chef/Owner Zoe Schor. The big open dining room may feel more like a vintage boutique decorated with antique artworks, reclaimed furnishings, and shelves lined with actual books (remember those?), but its homey vibes lead the way to reimag-

BROKEN SHAKER Inside the hip scene that is Freehand Chicago, a hotel/hostel in downtown’s River North area, Chef Ollie Walleck is concocting playful food and beverage menus at queer-friendly bar Broken Shaker. Walleck, a transgender chef originally from Cleveland, has a special talent for zesty flavor combos. His bar bites include light and larger morsels, like fries with fresh sage and rosemary, a “Fo’Boy” with seitan sausage and remoulade, and a honey-fried chicken sandwich with gochujang (a spicy Korean miso) and molasses pickle.

Photo: Broken Shaker

Fo’Boy at Broken Shaker

Photo: Kelsy Chauvin

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They’re pretty impressive tastes for a laid-back bar, but then Walleck’s cocktail program is just as creative, with seasonal or stirred-and-strong libations made more intriguing thanks to names like the PotatoChip Old Fashioned and Guilty Feet Got No Rhythm (bonus if you can name that tune). Drop by for exotic elixirs and aromatic-herbed bites, and expect big things from this equality-minded chef. 19 E. Ohio St. Tel: 312-940-3699. www. freehandhotels.com/chicago/broken-shaker

LOU MITCHELL’S It’s been nearly 100 years since Lou Mitchell’s sold its first coffee and donut, and this Illinois treasure remains irresistibly tempting. The diner opened in 1923 on the actual original street of “Mother Road” Route 66. It was instantly famous as the city’s first breakfast-allday restaurant. And it’s still just as filling and delicious today, with fifth-generation family owners serving up Lou’s trademark eggs in skillets, plus all the best diner standards from BLTs and meatloaf, to fresh waffles and buttermilk biscuits. Quality ingredients were always on the menu, so patrons can rely on home-baked bread, premium bacon and sausage, fresh-cut fries, and surprisingly tasty house-stewed prunes, served as a complimentary diner-style amuse bouche. (Though most guests seem more excited by the free Milk Duds and donut holes.) Some restaurants stand out for their new flavors or high concepts. Lou Mitchell’s stands out for being simply the best since its first skillet was served. 565 W. Jackson Blvd. Tel: 312-939-3111. www.loumitchells.com

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specialeffects great stuff for the consummate traveler

OPEN STORY LUGGAGE Why pay extra for premium luggage? Earlier this year, Target launched its own high-quality luggage brand, Open Story. The pieces come in muted pastels and earth tones, making them the perfect fit for anyone’s travel style. From silent spinner wheels to durable exteriors and sturdy zippers, they match the quality of luggage pieces normally sold for twice the price. Better yet, there’s a 10-year limited warranty. Starting at $149. www.Target.com/Open-Story

HEMP UNDERWEAR Hemp is an extremely sustainable material. It grows fast and generally requires no form of pesticides or herbicides. That means healthier soil and an ecosystem that isn’t totally destroyed. And with Wama, hemp comes in comfort. They make underwear for both men and women that is breathable and soft. $24. Wamaunderwear.com

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PRIDE WATCH For a stunning and eye-grabbing timepiece, this Pride watch is a must. Each color of the rainbow rotates, aligning the markers to display the time. Better yet, 5% of all sales goes to True Colors United, an organization dedicated to helping LGBTQ youth, especially the homeless. $150. ProjectsWatches.com

SUSTAINABLE SUNGLASSES Now that summer is here, it’s important to protect your eyes. Luckily, Blue Planet creates stunning sunglasses (and even reading glasses) made from reclaimed metals and plastics, and sustainable wood like bamboo. They have a wide range of colors, sizes, and shapes to choose from on their website, and for each pair sold, Blue Planet will donate a pair of corrective glasses to someone in need. Starting at $50. Blueplaneteyewear.com

TRAVEL PACK With many travelers heading outdoors, it’s more important than ever to have a sturdy and durable travel bag to hold your belongings. Filson’s travel packs are made with the adventurer in mind. Lightweight nylon is reinforced with rugged twill. The pack is tear-resistant, with a water-repellent bottom, ensuring your items will stay safe and dry no matter where your journey takes you. $55. Filson.com

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passportprofile EDMUND WHITE NOVELIST, MEMOIRIST, ESSAYIST, PLAYWRIGHT, AND PROFESSOR EMERITUS by Arthur Wooten ugust 2020 is the launch of A Saint From Texas, Edmund White’s 29th book. He’s famous for his self-deprecating sense of humor as well as his twinkling and often mischievous wit. White is the undisputed “silverdaddy” of gay literature. He unabashedly shares with his readers his deepest and often darkest thoughts about life and sex. He is also the co-author of The Joy Of Gay Sex. His conversational and irreverent style of writing has garnered him many awards. White was made an officer in the French Ordre des Arts et des Lettres and won a literary prize from the Festival of Deauville. He was also named the 2018 winner of the PEN/Saul Bellow Award for Achievement in American Fiction. It is his memoir A Boy's Own Story that splashed Mr. White onto the literary scene. Rounding out his trilogy of autobiographies he followed this up with The Beautiful Room Is Empty and The Farewell Symphony. White is an essayist and he also worked as a correspondent at French Vogue for a decade. He still contributes to the New York Times Book Review. In City Boy, White chronicles his life in New York City during the 60s and 70s. He moved to the City in July of ‘62 after majoring in Chinese at the University of Michigan and was accepted at Harvard to do his PhD but opted to move to Greenwich Village to live with his first boyfriend. White wrote States of Desire: Travels in Gay America, a travelogue that explores gay culture in cities across the states in the late 70s. This was a gloriously free and adventuresome time just prior to the beginning of the AIDS epidemic. Along with Larry Kramer, White was one of the original 6 founders of the Gay Men’s Health Crisis (GMHC). White shares with us his life in Paris from ’83 to ’90 in his memoir Inside A Pearl, and in ’93 he penned the critically acclaimed biography, Genet.

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He often spent summers in Venice and it was on my second trip to the “Floating City” when author David G. Hallman suggested I read White’s 2009 memoir City Boy, in particular chapter 11. Wickedly funny as well as informative, I now recommend the same to all my friends journeying to Venice. Each visit, I happily make my obligatory visit to Peggy Guggenheim's museum. In fact, during a recent trip during Carnival the apartment I rented overlooked her museum garden, in particular, her stone chair. “...she (Peggy) had one obsession— arranging for her babies (Lhasa Apsos), and herself, to be buried in the garden of her palazzo. It was against commune rules to be buried anywhere but in a cemetery, but Peggy was willing to give her entire art collection and her palace to the city of Venice in exchange for having the rules bent in her favor. She eventually succeeded. In her garden she had a Byzantine stone chair, and now she and many of her dogs are buried in the ground that surrounds it.” - from Chapter 11, City Boy

I recently had the great pleasure to talk with Edmund White (www.edmundwhite.com), discussing a broad range of topics as well as the launch of his latest book, A Saint From Texas. Edmund, Venice is my favorite city abroad and I can’t stop visiting her. Do you still travel there? I would in a heartbeat go there but it’s a tough city for someone on a cane. You’ve lived in Paris. You made a risky trip to Syria in the early 80s, traveled to Jordan and Crete. You’ve visited Zurich often and went to the Cannes and Berlin film festivals. But New York City has remained your home base. Is there a destination you’re still aching to explore? My favorite city is Istanbul, but I doubt it’s the same. I’d love to go to Kyoto. Why is Kyoto your must-see city? I love classic Japanese literature: Genji, the Pillow Book. And I once thought of myself as a Buddhist.

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passportprofile You weren’t just living in New York City during Stonewall, you were there! The night of June 28, 1969 you were at the Stonewall Inn during the riots. What was that like? Did you have an immediate sense of what was happening and the importance of the event? Yes, it felt historic, but we laughed a lot at the slogans, The Pink Panthers or Gay is Good in imitation of Black is Beautiful. We must discuss your most recent book, A Saint From Texas, launching this August, 2020. First, the cover design is gorgeous. It is so reminiscent of the late and beautifully talented illustrator, Roger Duncan. Who created the cover? I think it was a cover of Vogue in the 1950s. I haven’t read the entire Edmund White library, but I’ve consumed my fair share. I must confess, A Saint From Texas is definitely my favorite book of yours to date. “Yvette and Yvonne Crawford are twin sisters, born on a humble patch of East Texas prairie but bound for far grander fates. Just as an untold fortune of oil lies beneath their daddy's land, both girls harbor their own secrets and dreams—ones that will carry them far from Texas and from each other. As the decades unfold, Yvonne will ascend the highest ranks of Parisian society as Yvette gives herself to a lifetime of worship and service in the streets of Jericó, Colombia. And yet, even as they remake themselves in their radically different lives, the twins find that the bonds of family and the past are unbreakable.” (from A Saint From Texas) The story is intelligent, clever, and emotional, but then slaps you across the face being unapologetically acer-

bic, even gleefully shocking. The twins, Yvonne and Yvette are complimentary, identicals. A Saint From Texas is just itching to be adapted to screenplay. Would you consider a film adaptation or have you been offered one? Consider? I’d beg for it! And the ending is ripe for a sequel. Are you planning on continuing the story? No. Now I’m writing a novel set in the future about polyamory. The dialogue flies at record speed. I sense you really enjoyed writing for and through these characters, especially Yvonne and Yvette. I’ve always enjoyed writing female characters, especially Frances Trollope in Fanny, Crane’s wife in Hotel de Dream, and the sisters in the Saint. In your memoirs I admire your ability to share the most intimate details of your life. Your body of work is the definition of an open book, no pun intended. Are there limits as to how much you will reveal about yourself, family, or friends and have you ever regretted scenarios you have shared? I’m a literary exhibitionist, but when a dirty passage from Our Young Man was read out loud at my 80th birthday I cringed. The flavor of A Saint From Texas tastes a bit like John Irving in all the best possible ways. Interestingly, the two of you are good friends. How did your relationship with John come about? I could never have written the Saint without having read Irving—the scope, the braided narrative, the satire! I met him because he said nice things about me in a paper in

Nashville. He’s a very warm, sincere man with strong opinions, though he can be selfdeprecating. I was able to give him a Lammy as a friend of gays. (Lambda Literary Awards, also known as the Lammys, are awarded yearly by the U.S.-based Lambda Literary Foundation to published works which celebrate or explore LGBT themes.) I know as an adult you’re a voracious reader. Were you also, as a child? I remember, or think I do, when I learned how to read and I thought it would be my passport into other, better worlds. I didn’t like to read children’s books. When I was nine I wanted to read Anatole France’s Thaîs, which was under reserve as a dirty book. When I was unable to obtain it I took my protest all the way to the mayor’s office (no response). My favorite books in grade school were Pierre Loti’s Disenchanted about life in Turkey’s harems, War and Peace (though I disliked how the aristocrats’ dialogue was not translated from French), a novel about the Lost Dauphin, and Henry Green’s Nothing (still a favorite). What is the most challenging aspect of the creative process for you? The most rewarding aspect of writing a novel is how it ties your days together. Any advice for wannabe writers? If you’re a serious “literary” writer, don’t study the market but just write a book you yourself would like to read. You’re a professor at Princeton and have taught creative writing classes. Do you ever offer master classes for plebeians like myself? I’d certainly be first to sign up. I retired two years ago. I’d give a master class if offered. You’re hardly a plebeian! When you’re in the throes of writing, what is your writing schedule like? Totally chaotic, like my life. Only fear and guilt make me settle down to write.

Photos: Bloomsbury

Edmund, I have found you to be amazingly accessible and generous. In fact, you offered a blurb for the cover of my first novel 15 years ago. Thank you, again. And thanks in advance for the novels, memoirs, essays, and reviews you’ll be entertaining and enlightening us with in the near future. My pleasure.

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passportprofile LEA DELARIA by Lawrence Ferber o matter where she goes, Lea DeLaria can’t escape her past as a convict. Thanks to Netflix’s Orange Is The New Black, which wrapped up its seventh and final season in 2019, DeLaria is best known for playing Carrie Black, a.k.a. “Big Boo,” a selfdescribed “thieving dyke.” Yet DeLaria, who immediately went on to play Queenie, a gearhead gang leader with a talent for burlesque in Hulu’s new neo-noir revenge drama Reprisal, has many more identities than some of her fans may realize. That includes stand-up comic (her mainstream breakout was a 1993 appearance on The Arsenio Hall Show), Broadway star (The Rocky Horror Show, On The Town), jazz singer (her catalog boasts a 2015 David Bowie cover album, House of David), and as of 2019, nightclub owner/restaurateur, when she opened performance and dining venue The Club in the East Coast LGBTQ mecca of Provincetown, Massachusetts. She also authored a 2000 tome, now in its third printing, Lea’s Book of Rules For The World. As raucous and “blue” as ever, the self-proclaimed butch dyke spoke with Passport at length about her career, her Provincetown club, her favorite destinations, and the women she most admires and would even love to play. The first time I ever saw you was in an episode of the 1990s TV show In The Life, which they shot at the April 1993 March on Washington for Lesbian, Gay, and Bi Equal Rights and Liberation. What is the one accomplishment you’ve made since then that, if someone told you on that day in Washington, you never would have believed? I might have said The Arsenio Hall Show, when I was the first openly gay comic to perform on TV in America. But I think it would have to be Orange Is The New Black. That I was able to present a living, breathing, real butch character that was written by lesbians, directed by lesbians, and performed

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by a lesbian. It was real and honest, and really thumbed its nose in the face of what society thinks a butch is. The stereotype is fat, drunk, stupid, beating up their girlfriends and starting fights in dyke bars. My character put a face on what we’re actually like, and she’s not only smart, she’s the smartest person in that prison. I’m incredibly proud of the fact I was a part of that and how society perceives my people, the butch dykes. When it comes to your career, do you see yourself as a comedian first? Actress? Singer? How does the hierarchy go when asked to describe who you are or what you do? I’m Sammy Davis Jr., man. I can do it all, man. I think of myself as an old school entertainer like Sammy Davis Jr., Carol Burnett, Frank Sinatra. The list goes on. In the old days, you really had to do everything, and I do it! I love doing it! I love doing standup, or belting a B-sharp. When people come to see me in concert and they never did before, I can see them look at me like, ‘what’s that dyke going to do?’ and I

would sing a huge opening number and bring the house down. That’s what I do. Also changing perceptions about who and what butches are, it’s fantastic. There’s a new Showtime comedy series, Work in Progress, starring Chicago comedian Abby McEnany, who’s a butch dyke and it’s based partly on her own life and experiences. Are you happy to see more butches in pop culture? Absolutely. Absolutely. There’s another butch on Starz’s Vida! She looks like a Latina mini-Lea! I think it’s great! I love seeing more butch dykes out there. We need a butch dyke Rat Pack. You all could do a project like Ocean’s 11. That would be fun! It would need to be a romcom! Let’s talk for a moment about Queenie. How would you describe her to someone who hasn’t watched Reprisal yet? Queenie is a head member of a gearhead gang called the Banished Brawlers. The

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Was this a dream, tackling a genre (noir) that you hadn’t really cracked yet? Yes. It’s really heavy noir. It’s first and foremost a revenge tale, but I like to say if Quentin Tarantino and David Lynch had a baby it would be this show. When its campy it’s very campy, but when not it’s dark and violent. I’m being asked to act within an inch of my life and honestly, to say it’s a dream come true, yes. It’s really great I can strut on stage and get to ride and kill people. Do you murder some despicable characters? They’re despicable to Queenie. Let’s put it this way. It’s a fabulous show, the most fun show I’ve ever done. Everyone should watch it. Have you ever had to defend yourself or attack someone in real life? I’ve been attacked and had to defend myself. I was queer bashed in San Francisco in 1983. Have you ever drawn directly on that experience in your work? Oh absolutely. My whole life has been a response to what happened to me in that respect. It made me be more out. Whose life story would you love to play? Well, Billy Tipton was a well-known saxophone player who toured the world, settled in Seattle, married twice, and had kids. When Billy died in 1989 it was discovered that Billy Tipton was a woman. I would very much like to play that part. It combines everything I like. Jazz, the end of swing into the bebop era—all of that. Tipton’s kids have done interviews. But both the ex-wives, neither one will talk about it. Fascinating isn’t it? Who are some women, past and present, that you most admire? Wow. There have been a lot of women

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throughout history. Queen Elizabeth I, amazing. Marie Curie. Not only the first woman to win a Nobel Prize, but she won two. I don’t think a lot of people are aware of that. I love all the suffragettes, Susan B. Anthony, Carrie Nation, Harriet Tubman. Of course Eleanor Roosevelt. And I admire and respect and adore Ella Fitzgerald, Lucille Ball, Carol Burnett, Bernadette Peters, Judy Garland, Liza Minnelli, and Sandra Bernhard!

was one of the only dyke bars in town and had fallen into terrible disrepair. We didn’t need another dance club, there’s plenty, but what we needed is a really nice nightclub. And that’s what I did. I bought it, painted it, broke some walls down and made it bigger, we have a fantastic deck overlooking the water, it’s gorgeous, the best view and deck in town, and great food and entertainment. P’town needed something like that.

You and Sandra are good friends, so I’d love an anecdote! Any recent fun times out together? Listen, I don’t like to talk about hanging out with Sandy because she’s honestly an incredibly private person, but we try to have regular lunch dates and we post photos on social media because we have to. If it wasn’t part of a career, Sandy wouldn’t do any of that shit! She ran out of fucks to give back when Sonny was still with Cher, honey!

Did you take any inspiration from Alan Cumming and Daniel Nardicio’s Club Cumming in NYC? You are gonna shit. I haven’t been to Club Cumming. And Alan yells at me. I live in Brooklyn and I’m constantly busy, and when I get to New York I just stay in my fucking apartment. I see Broadway shows and that’s basically it. It’s horrifying! Alan came to my P’town club and he loved it. He loved it. We both performed over Labor Day and he came several nights after his show. We had a great time, as did Sandy! There’s a picture of me and Sandy together at the club on Instagram. She ate, we had a couple of drinks, we had a great time.

She came by your Club in Provincetown in August, which previously had been a lesbian bar called Pied. So how did The Club’s first season treat you? I see Rosie O’Donnell and Mx Justin Vivian Bond also were there! It was very good! The problem was I filming Reprisal in Wilmington, NC at the same time, so I didn’t get to spend enough time there. It was gonna be me performing almost the entire summer and then I got this show and couldn’t do it. Thank god I had friends who could fill in for me. But it went really well, we learned from our mistakes and will open again in 2020. We’re also trying to winterize so we can remain open until New Year’s Eve. What was it about Provincetown that made you say, ‘this is where I need to do this?’ Well, I was the first lesbian act to perform in P’town, back in 1984, and I spent every summer of my life there until I did the Arsenio Hall show in 1993. In fact, I was there for the very first women’s weekend, it wasn’t even a full week then. I’ve been a fixture in that town for a very long time, they call me the mayor, and they say ‘welcome home’ whenever I come back. It’s part of my DNA. The building I bought

Was it hard saying farewell to Big Boo when Orange Is The New Black wrapped? Oh gosh yes, and I haven’t yet. Everywhere I go, I can’t take two steps without someone asking, ‘may I have a picture with you, Big Boo?’ So it’s very hard to

Lea at OITNB Premiere

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Photo: Marion Curtis / StarPix for Netflix

Brawlers make most of their money through a thing called the Bangerang, which is a huge entertainment complex and everyone comes to see the shows there, mostly the burlesque. Queenie runs the burlesque, she stars, choreographs, and directs, and when she’s offstage she looks like me. She’s a badass, she’s a butch dyke, she drives a rad ride, she kills people. When she’s on stage she’s a drag queen! You’re gonna love it.

Passport Profile Lea DeLaria_globetrotting Aug-07.R5-1/REV 6/15/20 3:15 PM Page 76

passportprofile say goodbye to her because I’m constantly reminded of her wherever I go.

Photo: JoJo Whilden/Netflix Photo: Paul Kolnik

Would you like a surprise sequel spinoff to see what happens to her afterwards, like they did with Jesse from Breaking Bad? I would love that and I’m sure all the fans would too.

Orange Is The New Black

Besides Provincetown, where else is a utopia for you? I grew up in St. Louis, and I wouldn’t say that’s a place I vacation, but it has a special place in my heart because I grew up there and whenever I go and hang out with my family, we tear it up. A special place? Palm Springs. I really love Palm Springs. There are two places there, especially. The Parker Hotel, I absolutely love it. The whole thing is decorated by Jonathan Adler and I love his stuff, don’t get me wrong, but every now and then there’s that one thing where you go, ‘Jonathan what were you thinking?’ (laughs) The Parker is exactly like that. It’s just fabulous. If you trolled through my Instagram account you’ll find pictures of me posing in various parts of the Parker dressed in a kaftan and a turban. The other place I really love is Ruby Montana’s Coral Sands Inn. Ruby used to own a vintage shop. I’m a slave to vintage, I love vintage. If there’s a vintage store you’re going to find me in it anywhere I’m at. She bought this place, midcentury, returned it to its glory, and each of the rooms are decorated in themes. The Elvis room, the Roy Rogers room, and my favorite the Liberace room. The pool is fantastic, it’s wicked fun, and she’s a great host.

Photo: Brownie Harris/Hulu

What’s your dream music project? I have something coming down the pike I’m not allowed to talk about. For those asking when I’m coming back to Broadway, it will be sooner rather than later. It’s a dream project, a new thing, it’s basically been written for me.

Reprisal

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Finally, who should play you in the Lea DeLaria biopic? Danny DeVito. He’s perfect! Danny, if you want to take a break from It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia, why don’t we make a 10-minute video where you’re playing me in a biopic?

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travelinggourmet GREAT VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN RESTAURANTS by Rich Rubin

Photo: Rich Rubin

TIAN BISTRO AM SPITTELBERG VIENNA, AUSTRIA Tian Bistro is the casual outpost of Paul Ivić, who also created Austria’s only Michelin-starred vegetarian restaurant. I love the bistro, with its low-key look of wood tables and taupe-hued booths, creating a feeling that’s organic, homey, and welcoming (there’s lovely garden seating too). At the end of Schrankgasse, a long and narrow street in the hip Spittelberg area, it’s a revelation of great food and friendly service. The cuisine is creative, original, striking, and oh so delicious. You might start with a tartare of beets, a soft and flavorful column, with little gumdrop-shaped dollops of paprika mayonnaise scattered about the plate, and three

Beet Tartare at Tian Bistro

Sasha Raj at 24 Carrots caperberries resting insouciantly at the top. Another great choice is the watermelon and button mushroom salad. Although it sounds like an unusual combination, it’s actually perfect. The watermelon chunks display a depth of flavor that’s like the watermelon of my memory, and the whole dish is infused with a mild sesame taste, and little rounds of scallions and sunflower petals completing the beautiful visual and flavor palate. Zucchini

blossoms come in a rich miso broth, the crunchy flowers resting atop a bed of potatoes, baby yellow squash, and chanterelles. Wash it all down with organic wine or perhaps lemonade flavored with blackberry/rosemary or elderflower/ginger. Do save room for dessert, which might be their amazing hibiscus sorbet resting on a round of soft, gooey, beautiful polenta, strawberries and toasted oats lending a variety of texture and flavor. If everything on the menu looks great (and it is), you might decide to free yourself from decisions and do the “Sharing Chef’s Garden” option, where the chef chooses two appetizers, a main, and a dessert for you. It gives you a taste (literally) of the wonders the chef is creating here. Schrankgasse 4, Vienna, Austria. Tel: +43 1 5269491. www.tian-bistro.com UDUPI PALACE TORONTO, ONTARIO Udupi Palace, a vegetarian Indian wonder, serves dishes mainly from the region of India that gives the restaurant its name. Located on East Gerrard Street in the heart of “Little India,” it’s remained one of the city’s most popular spots for its tapas-style menu of meat-free delights that are perfect for sharing. Start with crispy onion pakora, or the

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Photo: Mark Lipczynski

hen I was a kid, I shocked everyone by announcing I was giving up meat (I really had no reason to, except I thought it was “sorta cool.”) At that time, being a vegetarian was fairly unheard of and caused problems when I’d eat out with friends or family. Now, several decades later, vegetarian and vegan restaurants are becoming more and more popular, and you can feast meat-free at plenty of amazing restaurants worldwide. These days, those who want a great meal without meat can eat with the best of them, whether it’s at a totally vegan place (about half the ones included here) or a vegetarian spot. The one thing they all have in common is wonderful food.

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Photo: Courtesy Udupi Palace

travelinggourmet amazing vegetable samosas. (Note: I could make a meal of the sweet tamarind and spicy mint sauces served with some appetizers). Continue, perhaps, with a dosa, a large coneshaped “crepe” made from lentils and rice, crisped on a griddle, and filled with everything from chiles and cheese to spiced potatoes and onions to spicy chutney. My suggestion: the paper dosa stuffed with a mixture of potatoes, black mustard seeds, cumin, white lentils, ginger, and green and red chiles. One of the several “paper dosa” selections (the thin, crispy crepe shows you where they got their name), it’s easily big enough for several to share, and served with coconut chutney and sambar. Channa bhatura, meanwhile, is a delicious chick pea dish in a rich curry sauce, served on the puffy bread known as bhatura that’s made from the same dough as the more familiar naan, but put into hot oil till it puffs up like a pillow. The long, narrow room is unassuming, with a mural of columns and palms at the back, Indian statuary on wall pedestals, and metal/leatherette chairs. 1460 Gerrard St. E., Toronto ON. Tel: 416-405-8189. www.udupipalace.ca SOULEY VEGAN OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA Restaurateur Tamearra Dyson grew up in Oakland, but her family hails from New Orleans, which explains the amazing vegan takes on traditional Louisiana Creole cuisine dished up at her friendly and fabulous restaurant. In the back, you’ll see portraits of her Louisiana forbears (“my comfort blanket,” Dyson smiles), and on your plate you’ll see

perfect sandwich, spicy and toothsome, served with garlic aioli and dill slaw, while Mac & Cheeze is livened up with jalapeños. Oh, and don’t forget dessert, maybe a mini sweet potato pie, washed down with their perfect housemade lemonade. The diverse crowd, young and old, Creole fanatics, and dedicated vegans, with everything in between, has kept this place one of the most appealing spots on Oakland’s restaurant map. Souley Vegan lives up to both halves of its name: 100% plant based food and a dining experience from cuisine to service to charming setting that’s unmistakably good for the soul. 301 Broadway, Oakland CA. Tel: 510-922-1615. www.souleyvegan.com)

Udupi some great vegan takes on the cookery of that region. Start with their Seitan Spicy Strips, served with hot sauce and vegan ranch dressing (you’ll never miss chicken wings again), before moving on to Zucchini Etouffe, with a coconut-based sauce and just a hint of heat. Try their flavorful gumbo, rich with okra, garlic, corn, tomatoes, and a saucy array of spices (along with what Dyson calls “The Holy Trinity” of onions, peppers, and celery). You’ll find the gumbo also in the Southern Staples Bowl, in which it’s joined by perfectly-seasoned grits and crispy tofu. Louisiana Hot Links make a Cornbread at Souley Vegan

24 CARROTS TEMPE, ARIZONA My nominee for best name ever of a vegan restaurant, 24 Carrots luckily has much more to offer than just a fun moniker. Opened in 2008, the café offers not only a wonderful menu, but a full line of tasty juices. You might start with a zucchini noodle salad (my favorite), where these green “pasta” strands are mixed with greens and other vegetables into a huge mound of goodness, topped with a balsamic or lemon-tahini dressing (I suggest the latter). Another great use of these “zoodles” is in the Alfredo Primavera, where they’re tossed with veggies and topped with a cashew-coconut Alfredo sauce, with a sprinkling of cashew “Parmesan”: crunchy/smooth, fresh, and clean. There’s a great selection of tacos, enchiladas, and sandwiches along with some vegan takes on the old favorites (“Mac and Trees,” anyone?). Wash it all down with an eye-opening Apple Zinger (apples/ginger), Carrots Over Easy (apples/carrots/pineapple/strawberries) or, the best of all, a Beet It (beets/carrots/cucumber/celery/ginger). With its great food, friendly staff, and homey setting with plants on the tables and lots of art on the walls, it’s no wonder this spot is one of the best vegan restaurants in the USA. 1721 E. Guadalupe Rd., Tempe AZ. Tel: 480-753-4411. www.24carrotscafe.com

Photo: Courtesy Souley Vegan

VEGENATION LAS VEGAS, NEVADA A great vegan restaurant in Las Vegas? If this sounds odd to you, then you haven’t visited VegeNation. Apparently I’m not the only one that’s discovered it, as the homey interior full of wood and plants is packed mid-afternoon when I visit. Your starter choices roam the earth, from sushi to bao to dumplings to tamales to hum-

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Roasted Brussel Sprouts at Frida’s mus (though I admit to being a sucker for the buffalo cauliflower “wings”). I love the risotto, rich with portobellos and butternut squash, amazing in its rich depth and variety of flavors, with a close second being the wonderful sweet potato and black bean quesadilla. You might also try the excellent pho (or, as they call it, “pho-king-delicious”), or if you’re in the mood for something lighter, perhaps a Miley Cyrus Rainbow Superfood Salad, with quinoa, hemp seeds, and sunflower seeds combining with the fresh vegetables and Green Goddess dressing. Pizzas hit the spot too. From your basic Margarita to a concoction called “Mac and Cheese Pizza,” complete with chipotle ranch dressing and “blazin doritos.” For dessert, there’s always a rich, luscious brownie sundae, with vegan ice cream, caramelized bananas, and berries, or a “Crazy Good” chocolate molten lava cake. Who says vegans can’t indulge with the best of them? 616 E. Carson Ave., Las Vegas NV. Tel: 702-366-8515. www.vegenationlv.com

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FRIDA’S ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI This sophisticated little eatery in the St. Louis suburb University City (just off the famed Delmar Loop) dishes up inventive vegetarian cookery. Marble-topped tables hold flowers in little jars, while cutouts in the gleaming white walls between rooms hold large candles. Wood floors and recessed lights give a soothing feeling. As we’re seated, our server declares, “Our water today is infused with strawberries and hibiscus.” Though an unspoken eyeroll goes around the table, it’s actually really subtle and good. I start with the roasted brussel sprouts with cherry tomatoes and aged balsamic—a simple yet totally satisfying take on this dish that’s by now a classic. Orange, beet, and burrata salad melds the flavors and colors of the three star ingredients with ease, while the signature kale salad, with sprouted sunflower seeds, tomatoes, and avocado, is as healthy as it is delicious. The selection of burgers is enormously diverse, from a slightly spicy black bean burger to Frida’s signature to Impossible and Beyond selections, and if you don’t want the exact burger dishes they offer, there’s a “build your own” section where you can go vegan or not, piquant or not, simple or amazingly complex. You might, however, opt for one of the other entrees, from a Mushroom Reuben or mushroom/avocado wrap to an enchilada filled with red beans, a variety of veggies, and a house-made smoked cashew “cheddar” enchilada sauce. 622 North and South Rd., St. Louis MO. Tel: 314-727-6400. www.eatatfridas.com.

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FOUR SEASONS RESORT O’AHU AT KO OLINA Nestled on the western side of O’ahu, away from the hustle and bustle of Waikiki, the Four Seasons is the perfect Hawaiian escape. Enjoy oceanfront dining with fresh local seafood, swim in their gorgeous pool, or sunbathe on the private beach. For an extra dose of luxury and excitement, the Four Seasons offers numerous activities and excursions. Scuba dive with a trained Navy SEAL, or take a helicopter tour of the island's lush cliffs and waterfalls. Afterward, pamper yourself at the night spa, where you can receive a massage under the stars, or go stargazing with a professional astronomer. At the Four Seasons, you can experience Hawaii like never before. Rates start at $550 USD per night. 92-1001 Olani St., Kapolei, O’ahu Hawaii. Tel: 808-679-9979. www.fourseasons.com/oahu

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