We Scream For Ice Cream

The Journey of Ice Cream Cart Vendors

by Jane Marie Hernandez

Everyone’s favorite summer treat, ice cream sold on the streets of New York, can be traced back to the 1800s. During this time, vendors were predominantly immigrants who came through Ellis Island and sold cold treats from wooden carts. It was common for families who could not afford ice cream machines or go to an ice cream parlor to turn to these carts for traditional sweet treats.

Nowadays, the process of becoming a street vendor in New York City is not an easy one, as it requires a license and and adherence to strict health and safety regulations. Back when ice cream carts first hit the streets, it was common for people to become sick from Staphylococcus aureus, scarlet fever, diphtheria, bovine tuberculosis, and other illnesses, which were able to spread in part due to unsanitary conditions and unsafe handling of dairy and tools. “Penny licks” were an old favorite at ice cream trucks, where the customer would lick the ice cream off a plate and return it to the vendor, who would rinse it off and use it again for the next customer. Before the 1890s, many dairy products were unpasteurized, which also caused people to get sick. Interestingly, many health officials overlooked possible dairy contamination and blamed it on flavorings, like vanilla. But once food handling sanitation improved, the popularity of ice cream was back like never before. During the prohibition era in the 1920s, when alcohol was banned and bars were closed, people still needed to satiate their cravings, so they turned to ice cream. This created a boost in popularity for ice cream sold on the street as ice cream trucks, ice cream carts, and ice cream parlors took the place of bars.

New York City is known for its diverse food culture, and with that includes ice cream carts that vend sweet treats like coquito (Italian icee or water ice), paleteros (paletas or popsicles), and raspado (shaved ice) vendors. These vendors provide sweet treats to tourists and locals alike in flavors like cherry, fresas con crema, grape, vanilla, lime, and rompope. Not only do these different ice cream vendors cater to various communities, but they are entrepreneurs who have undergone a rigorous process to obtain permits to operate their businesses. Because many vendors are immigrants, keeping their businesses can be difficult because even though if someone selling on the streets has documentation stating they are allowed to have a business, it might not stop police or government officials from attempting to take these beloved ice cream vendors off the city streets. This is what happened to an ice cream vendor in Los Angeles. Blanca Perez was within 500 feet of a school in Van Nuys and was unaware that vendors are not allowed within 500 feet of schools. She faced deportation because she openly admitted she was undocumented. Immigrants, regardless of immigration status, are at constant risk of being unjustly taken off the streets or deported. Ice cream cart vendors are the backbones of our community and put smiles on our faces when the weather turns warm. They vend ice cream to provide for their families and make others happy. When passing by communities with immigrant ice cream vendors, think about how vital they are, and continue to be, to our country’s history and culture. Despite the challenges and risks, these valiant vendors will always be on New York City streets on hot summer days to provide new generations of children with the same nostalgic flavors and feelings of home. These vendors not only provide a tasty treat but also contribute to the vibrant and diverse culture of New York City. If you are in the city during warmer seasons, although you can easily find a truck from the popular Mister Softee franchise, why not support New York City’s local vendors instead?