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e Green Pages. Work. Consume. Repeat. The story of stuff.
Backpack - Check. Sleeping bag - Check. Boots in South Africa. Petroleum drilled in Iraq. Some plastic thrown - Check. Gore-tex jacket - Check. Sunglasses - Check. iPod in from China. Assembled in Mexico. Shipped to the United - Check. Do you ever wonder where all this stuff comes from? States. Shelved and sold as cheaply and as quickly as possible. Sure, it’s from the store, but how is it made? What happens These days, the average American consumes twice before it makes its way to the store? What happens when you’re as much more than they did 50 years ago. For a reason.We might done using it? The internet video ‘The Story of Stuff With think the consumer boom existed longer than we have, but it Annie Leonard’ (www.storyofstuff.com) explores the line of was, in fact, premeditated and researched. American post-WWII consumption, from extraction to disposal. You need to check retail analyst Victor LeBeau said, “Our enormously productive out this eye-opening video, and tell your friends to do the economy… demands that we make consumption our way of same. life, that we convert the buying and use of goods into rituals, Most of us are at least a little bit familiar with the that we seek our spiritual satisfaction, our ego satisfaction, in gruesome statistics surrounding consumption… We need things waste. In the Amazon, 2,000 consumed, burned up, replaced trees are being cut down every and discarded at an everMetal mined in South Africa. minute. 80% of the world’s accelerating rate.” original forests are gone, kaput. But the mad cycle Petroleum drilled in Iraq. Some plastic The U.S. government admits to that such consumerism calls producing four billion pounds thrown in from China. Assembled in for doesn’t make people happy. of toxic chemicals every year. Think of the huge number of Individuals produce 4.5 pounds Mexico. Shipped to the United States. prescriptions for anti-depressants of garbage a day. If everyone on (another item to consume, of Shelved and sold as cheaply and as Earth consumed as crazily as course). Work till you drop. Americans, we would need 3-5 Watch TV to relax. Feel low quickly as possible. planets in order to survive. The because of the pretty people statistics vary slightly according on commercials suggest you be to source, but any way you look more like them. Buy more to be at them, even if you choose to do so with your eyes closed, like the pretty people in those ads. Work more to afford to buy they’re there. more, and so on. It’s easy to stay numb to the data, maybe because We shouldn’t think of this as a purely North we already know it too well or we rely on our material items American problem, however.The maniacal cycle pervades many so much, we believe we can’t live without them. Plus, we only countries. It’s time to hop off this hamster wheel. If people see the product part of production, the easy, consumable part. created the model of consumerism, surely, we can recreate a Ads glide across our televisions, telling us we need to buy more more sustainable way to live with our Earth. To find out more, stuff, newer stuff. We eye what’s on the shelves in the stores, all take 20 minutes to view ‘The Story of Stuff.’ And recycle the so easy to buy, and so cheap, especially when you think about information: Pass it on! all the labor that goes into making the product. Metal mined
Black Sheep online. Coming Soon...
Mandala Andino
Live your life to the fullest extent possible with bodywork based on gentle touch.
phone 56 61 414143 • mandalaandino@yahoo.com • Eberhard 161, Puerto Natales, Chile
Patagonian garbage blowin’ in the wind. As a traveler, do you ever wonder how the recycle programs work? Are there even programs to recycle? In Patagonia, we’ve all noticed the lack of garbage bins, much less recycle bins. In many cities, it is up to the individual businesses to sort and save their recyclables in hopes that, by the end of the season, there will be some sort of system in place to pass their sorted items onto recycling plants. People have to get creative. Some businesses are known for sorting everything, even their organic waste, which is collected and fed to local pigs. Some restaurants in Chile rinse out and store their used tetrapak cartons (milk and juice cartons with the silver lining) all season long, before they ship them all to Santiago. Often, before the season is over, these recycling optimists run out of storage space. And when they do, they’ll be forced to start throwing away perfectly recyclable items. What happens when the season is over? Most places will produce less trash with fewer travelers passing through, but the chances that the folks who stay in their towns during winter will be able to recycle their recyclables, also become fewer, because the programs all seem to fizzle and fade. Disposing of non-recyclable garbage is another stinky subject. Litter rustling around in the wind is a huge
puerto natales, chile
blight on the Patagonian landscape. And it accumulates every garbage day. In Chilean Patagonia, where plastic bags haven’t been banned as they have in Argentine places like Calafate and Chaltén, everybody puts garbage out to be collected at the same time, twice a week. On garbage day, residents hang their garbage bags, usually once-used, flimsy plastic grocery bags, from trees, or place them in holey raised baskets outside their houses. Then the mobs of hungry street dogs hunt down the town’s leftover grub, tearing open white bag after white bag. Trash spills everywhere, just in time for the wind to swoop in and sweep it where it may. Not to put a damper on your trip, but if you’re wondering what you can do as a traveler, here are a few ideas. Express concern everywhere you go. Ask about recycling programs. Don’t buy bottled water; the tap water in most of Patagonia is delicious and safe. Try to buy things that don’t don a lot of packaging waste. Refuse the plastic bags you’ll be given, and bring your own burlier, reusable bag.Take waste back home with you, especially little things, like spent batteries. These small acts may not seem like much, but every little bit helps.
Chile Passes National Whale Sanctuary Law On September 11, 2008, the Chilean Congress unanimously approved a bill declaring Chilean jurisdictional waters to be a whale sanctuary. Now, the bill heads to the desk of President Michelle Bachelet who originally submitted the measure to Congress. She is expected to announce the bill as a Law of the Republic shortly. Chilean conservation and fishermen’s groups praised the legislators for supporting the will of the Chilean people regarding conservation of the waters off Chile’s 3,400 mile (5,500 km) long coast. They said the final approval of the
law will allow Chile to attend the intersessional meeting of the International Whaling Commission next week in Florida with a strong message of conservation and non-lethal use of cetaceans. “We are extremely happy with the consensus obtained in support of the law, including the national and international community, the legislative and executive branch and the Chilean Navy,” said spokesman. “We are extremely happy since this law will help us as a country to protect the marine biodiversity. It is our duty and obligation to do so.”
erratic rock
backpacker’s hostel baquedano 719, puerto natales www.erraticrock.com 56 61 410355
erratic rock 2
bed & breakfast b.zamora 732, puerto natales www.erraticrock.com 56 61 414317
hostels • equipment • information • guides
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Torres del Paine, Chile UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE: 1978 TOTAL AREA: 242,242 hectares Paine Grande: 3,050 meters LOS CUERNOS: 2,200m to 2,600m Foul weather gear: Essential
How far is it to the Park from Natales? From Natales, by bus, it’s about 2 to 2.5 hours.
What’s the latest I can start a trek in the Park? In high season (Dec.-Mar.), there is an afternoon bus to the Park at 2 p.m., más o menos. Can the buses to the Park pick me up from my hostel? Some do. It depends on if your hostel is friendly with the bus company. What’s the Park entrance fee this month? 8.000 clp (about $16 greenbacks USD). How much does camping cost in the Park? Camping costs 3.500 to 4.000 pesos per person, not per tent, per day, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free. In the off-season (about April-August), closed campsites are free. Which campsites are always free? Los Guardes, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Las Torres, Paso, Pingo, and Las Carretas.
What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but you can find out the specifics on the back of the map they give you when you enter the Park. During summer, from roughly December to March, you have about 18 hours of daylight. If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the Towers first? Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv. Is it better to trek the park clockwise or counterclockwise? You’ll find that outdated guide books tell you to go clockwise, but most trekkers find that counterclockwise flows through the ‘W’ better and makes for a more scenic day over the John Gardner Pass.
Torres d del Paine National tion ional Park
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Sierra del Toro
Lago del Toro
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Pueblito Río Serrano
s iggin O’H k ardo ar Bern tional P Na Puerto Toro
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How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park? The Catamaran costs 11.000 pesos per person one way. 18.000 round trip. It shuts down during winter.
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Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and matress at the refugios? Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Keep in mind that many refugios stay closed
H o s t e r i a
L ago del T oro
Laundry, Transfers, Horse riding
Like home... Hosteria Fono: 56 61 412481 Reservas Fono:56 61 220014 (Punta Arenas)
Río Serrano, Patagonia hosteria@lagodeltoro.com www.lagodeltoro.com
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What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most buses pick up and leave between 7 and 8 a.m.
Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty accurate on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a little off though.
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How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s lasting longer every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, and the Park is great in winter.
Do I get a map when I enter the Park? Yes.You can also buy a nicer wall map in town.
ey Gr go La
What’s the weather going to be like? That’s the forbidden question. But we put this one in just for fun! ...No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly.
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How much money do I need to bring in the Park with me? 8.000 enterance + 11.000 catamaran + paid camping nights and mini shuttle equals roughly 40.000clp.
standard W trek. To venture even further away from the masses, visit Laguna Azul or Pingo. Even if you don’t stray from the well-trod parts of the Park, make sure you check out the icebergs on Lago Grey, and watch the National Geographic puma film at the Administration Visitor Center. Human settlement traces back to 12,000 years ago. Estancias (ranches) were started by German and British colonists in the 1890s. More recently, truckloads of barbed wire fencing have gradually been removed from the Park as the land is converted from estancia back to its natural state.
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questions & answers
Torres del Paine National Park is bordered by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest glaciated areas in the world outside of Antarctica. Sister park to Yosemite in California, Torres del Paine’s busy trail system, pricey refugios and the 200,000 visitors it hosts per year, may not be paradise for those looking for something remote. That said, it’s so popular for a reason. The Torres and Cuernos occupy postcards and book covers all over the world and they are a symbol for Chile. “Paine,” by the way, means blue, and you’ll see blues that will blow your mind. Plus, it is possible to get away from the crowds, especially if you stay long enough, for example, to do the back end of the circuit, and not just the
C amp o del Hielo Sur - Patagonian S outhern Ice Field
during the winter off-season. Is food sold in the Park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios as well as some camping food staples. Do I need to tie up my food in the Park? Mice have been a problem in the Park recently, so it is a good idea to tie up your food. Can you drink the water in the Park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, not lake water or anything downstream from a camp or refugio. Do I need sunscreen in the Park? YES! The hole in the ozone hovers right over us during spring and summer. It can and will cause problems after a multi-day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t skimp on the sun protection.
Should I worry about bugs in the Park? You will see bugs on the back circuit if there is no wind and some warmer weather. Bug repellent is a good idea. Do I have to worry about making my reservation for the bus on my way back from Torres del Paine? Yes. For now, in early season, make sure to talk to the office you bought your ticket at, and speak to the driver - just to be sure. It becomes easier in mid-season. How do I contact the Park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There’s no official Search and Rescue, but any of the CONAF ranger stations can help you.
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Torres del Paine Climbing Permit Information •
Details of your route(s) and intended timescale. Plan a trip to the Administration Centre. At the Administration Centre, you will need to provide the name of your Expedition (so if you don’t have a name already, think up something impressive before you arrive!) and all the documentation mentioned above. The insurance documents are vital. You will not get your permit without them. The permit is required for your own protection in the case of an emergency. If you have an accident CONAF needs to know firstly where you are, and also that you have the insurance cover in place to meet the costs of any rescue operation needed. While CONAF Park rangers will assist anyone who is injured or otherwise incapacitated on the marked trails without charge, it does not have the resources to rescue those who undertake dangerous sports off the marked trails. You do that at your own risk and expense. You will be given a copy of the CONAF permit, which you need to take to the ranger station of the first sector in which you are planning to climb. CONAF will nominate a Park ranger as the main contact for your expedition with whom you should stay in contact through the duration of your climbing, so that they can monitor your safety and know when you leave.
Fantastico Sur +56-61 360361, ext. 380 albergue@lastorres.com Los Cuernos & Torre Central are open. Chileno will open October 2. Seron will open mid-October. Torre Norte will open November 1. Vertice +56-61 412742 ventas@verticepatagonia.cl Lodge Paine Grande is open. Campamento Perros open mid-October. Refugio Dickson open mid-October. Refugio Grey open Oct 1st. Breakfast
$10.00
Dorm bed
$40.00
Lunch
$14.00
Campsite
$7.00
Dinner
$18.00
Sleeping bag
$9.00
Full board
$80.00
2-person tent $14.00 Mattress
Blend the pisco and lemon juice. While blending, add powdered sugar to taste, the egg white, and the ice cubes. In a minute, it will be ready to drink. In some families, it’s a tradition to welcome guests with a toast of pisco sour, so pucker up and enjoy!
$3.00
*Prices are approximate and may be slightly higher at some refugios. Note: Schedules often change at the start of the season. Check with the refugio companies directly for the latest info for openings and closures.
2008-2009 Season Schedule
Volunteers Needed.
A
Pisco Sour • 3 parts pisco • 1 part lemon juice • Powdered sugar • 1 egg white • Ice cubes
Prices are in U.S. dollars*
CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS
Torres del Paine.
MA. The word means love in Spanish. And this is what the Agrupación Medioambiental Torres del Paine (known as AMA for short), is all about. The environmental conservation organization cares for the areas in and around Torres del Paine National Park. They do their best to make sure the Park isn’t loved to death by the 128,000 people visiting it each year. Ecologist and director of AMA, Juliana Torres, says, “The park is dealing with a huge number of visitors every day. Our biggest challenge is to inform visitors and make sure they realize how important it is to leave no trace, behave properly and care about the natural beauty of Torres del Paine while they’re enjoying it.” Torres plans to focus AMA’s on creating programs that educate locals and visitors about the environment and its needs. She also hopes to organize conservation projects, such as trail maintenance and recycling programs, along with supporting scientists in their investigations of the Park’s flora and fauna. Oscar Guineo, a plant researcher and park ranger since the Park’s creation in 1975, collaborates with AMA, performing investigations of vegetation in areas burned by wildfire as well as a census of the endangered huemul (Andean deer). Guineo sees AMA as a much-needed organization in Torres del Paine, where the administration’s main priorities, thus far, have been promoting recreation and tourism, not conservation. Guineo hopes AMA can help to focus people’s attention on the importance of protecting the plants and animals. “Working together with the
In Chile, the food is not sophisticated, but it’s delicious. There’s a wide variety of meats, including lamb, pork, beef, fish, shellfish, and poultry. You might even taste guanaco, ñandu, boar, or deer. (Yes, there’s a lot of meat... good luck if you’re a vegetarian!) But you’ll also find good, strong drinks and a pisco culture. Pisco is like a whiskey made from grapes. There are many pisco-mixed drinks out there, piscola (pisco and coke) being one of the most common. Pisco sour is the most popular pisco drink among tourists. It’s a good idea to try pisco sours at different places, because each restaurant or bar has their own touch or flavor. You can even find delicious calafate sour based on the same mix. But you can also make pisco sour yourself, in your hostel or once you get home.
Torres del Paine Refugio Information
Dates
By Christina Cooke
park administration and bringing experts in from around the world has the potential to benefit the Park tremendously. If experts from other places come and say things are bad and they need to change, they might change.” This is what volunteers from around the world do: they travel to Patagonia and help AMA achieve its environmental and conservation goals. Jacob Wagner, a 23-year-old natural resource management student from Colorado, participated in a wildfire vegetation study. He joined a brigade in fighting a wildfire near Laguna Azul, helped construct a new trail near Refugio Chileno, and delivered a presentation on Leave No Trace principles to the guides who work for the Las Torres hotel. “So many of the people who come to Torres del Paine don’t have much experience being outside,” Wagner said. “To have a group to educate visitors and be the voice saying, ‘Take care of this place,’ is crucial.” Torres hopes AMA can start working with the national corporations that run the Park as well as the various guiding companies, tour operators, and hotels that work within it. “In the end, we all have the same objectives and mission: to protect this beautiful place. We need to work together. We need commitment, and we need cooperation.” AMA is looking for volunteers with knowledge of and passion for the environment to work 2-4-week stints. They are also seeking monetary help to fund their conservation projects. For information about how to donate your time or money, check out the AMA web site at www.amatorresdelpaine.org.
From Pudeto
From Refugio Pehoe
October 1 - 15, 2008
12.00
12.30
October 16 - November 15, 2008
12.00 18.00
12.30 18.30
November 16, 2008 - March 15, 2009
09.30* 12.00 18.00
10.00* 12.30 18.30
March 16 - 31, 2009
12.00 18.00
12.30 18.30
April 2009
12.00
12.30
*No trips at 09:30 or 10:00 on the following dates: 25/12/2008 & 01/01/2009.
One-way ticket: $11.000 per person (one backpack allowed) Round-trip ticket: $18.000 per person
Los Arrieros 1517, Puerto Natales, Chile, Ph: 61-411380, Email: maclean@entelchile.net
A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...
Fotografia © 2008 Daniel Bruhin W.
For any climbing expeditions in the Park you need to fulfill all the necessary conditions set by CONAF (Chilean National Forestry Corporation) and DIFROL (Dirrección de Fronteras y Limites del Estado). Here’s what you need to do... Get DIFROL approval. You can obtain it before you leave home, and it´s free. Check out their web site (www.difrol.cl). Download an application form. You can apply for DIFROL permission either directly to a regional government office in Chile or via the Chilean Consulate in your own country. If you arrive in Puerto Natales without DIFROL permission, visit the regional government offices in town, on Eberhard and Tomas Rogers, telephone: 411423. Once in the area in which you want to climb, you need to report to the Carabineros de Chile. In the Park, they’re at Cerro Castillo and at the Administration Centre. They’ll check your authorization and make sure you’re adequately equipped for your expedition. Then you’ll need CONAF permission, which is also free. It is granted by the Park Administrator. Make sure you take these items to the park with you... • Your DIFROL approval • Passports of every member of your group • Insurance policy details, including name and address of the insurer, policy number and a contact telephone number
Pisco Sour, your post-trail cocktail
October.08
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Kayaking. Puerto Natales kayak directory
Patagonia’s Perfect Sport.
AQUANATIVA www.aquanativapatagonia.com info@aquanativapatagonia.com Eberhard 161, Phone: 56 61 414143 BELLA PATAGONIA www.bellapatagonia.com info@bellapatagonia.com B. Arana 160, Phone: 56 61 412489 FORTALEZA EXPEDICIONES www.fortalezapatagonia.cl explore@fortalezapatagonia.cl T. Rogers 235, Phone: 56 61 613395 INDOMITA www.indomitapatagonia.com info@indomitapatagonia.com Bories 206, Phone: 56 61 414525 LA MADDERA www.lamadderaoutdoor.cl lamaddera@hotmail.com A. Prat 297, Phone: 56 61 413318 ONAS PATAGONIA www.onaspatagonia.com reservasonas@onaspatagonia.com Eberhard 599, Phone: 56 61 412034 RUTAS PATAGONIA www.rutaspatagonia.cl info@rutaspatagonia.cl B. Encalada 353, Phone: 56 61 613874 SENDERO AVENTURA www.senderoaventura.com info@senderoaventura.com T. Rogers 179, Phone: 56 61 415636 SERRANO AVENTURA www.puntaalta.cl serranoaventura@puntaalta.cl B. Encalada 244, Phone: 56 61 410115 TU TRAVESIA www.tutravesia.com info@tutravesia.com Bulnes 37, Phone: 56 61 415747
Breaking Through:
Women Outdoor Adventurers Think of one thing you enjoy doing outside. Now think about how you got into it. Most people have role models: parents, siblings, friends, teachers. Or they find role models through the media. I work for the Headlands Institute, a nonprofit environmental education organization near San Francisco, California. We try to make multicultural connections in everything we teach, using diverse environmental models, so our students can relate and be inspired. The more you see role models who you can relate to, the more you believe that you have the same potential. There are many ways that people make connections to nature. I, for example, have developed a deep connection to the natural world through outdoor adventures like climbing, surfing, and backcountry skiing. So I read magazines such as “Climbing,” “Surfing,” and “Outside.” to see what’s up with these communities and activities. It didn’t take me long to wonder why all the athletes always look the same. They’re mostly all male. It’s even harder to find female athletes of different origins, colors, abilities, ages, shapes, and sizes. Does this mean that we don’t have as many female outdoor athletes? Or do we just not see them? These publications send an important message, whether intentional or not, that these sports are inaccessible to many people, especially women. But there are lots of diverse women outdoor athletes from around the world who are waiting to have their stories be told. I’m working as that that person, the adventure photographer, who tracks down these women and shares their images and their stories. Adventurers come in two genders, in many different
By Miho Aida
colors, and from many different backgrounds. And people from all walks of life should be able to see themselves in wilderness sports. I’m hoping to demystify outdoor adventures to women and men. I came to Puerto Natales, Chile, to look for women sea kayakers. I asked around town, and heard the name, Cote Marchant, from several people. She is supposedly the only woman sea kayaking guide in town. I visited her at Indomita, the kayaking company where she works. She listened to my project goals carefully and asked, “How can I support your project?” I was soon signed up for a day trip to Fjord Eberhard to see her work for the next day. A few days later, I was on another trip, an overnighter to Glacier Balmaceda and Río Serrano. This provided me a bigger picture of what it’s like to be a kayaking guide, because there’s a whole other element of taking care of people off the water. I listened to her, as I helped her set up a camp, prepare meals, wash dishes, move heavy kayaks, and put away equipment. “It’s not that I can’t do it, I can do the same thing, but not in a same way [as men].” Her story is truly inspiring, especially for those who grew up in big cities with limited access to outdoor adventures. “I’m not blaming my parents for not giving me the opportunity,” said Cote. “If I ever have my own children, the first thing I am going to teach them is how precious it is to have this beautiful world around us. I would tell them that this is the best thing you have and one of the best teachers in life.” Cote tirelessly worked to break the mold against women in outdoor sports, while establishing her place as a sea kayaking guide at Indomita. “The ways [women] do things is different,” says Cote.“Our
thinking process and logic are different. Women can better understand how hormones and emotions affect your days, for example. This is the reason why I think it would be easier to work with women.” Not only would it make Cote’s work easier, but I also think women guides can connect with women clients at a different level, providing a safe place for them to make mistakes and challenge themselves without feeling intimidated by a male presence. (Though, of course, many of you ladies have no problem with this!) My friend, Erik, who has taught many climbing courses at NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School), once told me that whenever there was a female climbing instructor, he observed that the female students climbed better. He thinks it’s because people learn better from someone who’s like them, someone who moves, thinks, and does things similarly, and who shows you how. “I am trying to start something to motivate women to join me in the guiding community by talking to the Asociación de Guías Última Esperanza (a guide association of Última Esperanza Province). Kayaking might be difficult because it is such demanding work. You have to be certified, take care of people, always dealing with weather and lifting weight. But I want to see more women join me, and I want to create some support for those who want to try,” says Cote. Just as many pioneer outdoor athletes-women and men--have paved the road for those to follow, Cote has certainly created a path for other women to follow her here in Puerto Natales. When I come back to Puerto Natales to paddle with her in the future, I hope I’ll find her with more women in the field.
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Calafate, Argentina n ar tí nM Sa
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How do I get to El Chaltén from El Calafate? By bus. It takes 4.5 hours to get to Chaltén from Calafate. In winter there’s only one bus in the morning. Can I get to El Chaltén directly from Puerto Natales? Not really. The buses leaving Puerto Natales get you to El Calafate by 1.30 p.m. Then, if you’re in a hurry, you can catch the next bus to El Chaltén at 6.30 p.m. How many people live in El Chaltén? 200 people live in Argentina’s trekking capital and youngest city, founded in 1985. What services are in El Chaltén? There aren’t any ATMs, banks, or places to change money. Some places accept dollars or euros, but not Chilean pesos. Also, few places accept credit cards, so you better bring Argentinean pesos with you. Is there a Park entrance fee from Chaltén? No. Even the campsites are free. Their philosophy is basically that the Park belongs to everybody because it is a natural treasure. It is up to all of us to help preserve it for generations to come. As a visitor, you are expected to help care for the park, pack out your trash, keep all water sources clean, and follow all common sense leave-no-trace principles. Where is the Tourism Center in El Chaltén? In El Chaltén, you should definitely stop at the visitor’s center of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (100 meters across the bridge from town). Most of the staff speak English and will give you the lowdown on how to make the most of your time in Chaltén. They also have a good exhibit on the climbing history of Cerros Torre and Fitz Roy. Where can I find a free map of Fitz Roy/Cerro Torre? In the Park administration office. All buses stop there and the office gives you a map and an orientation about the Park, including a briefing on leave no trace principles. What if I don’t have lodging reservations? The tourist office, Comisión de Fomento, Provincia Santa Cruz, can help you locate a bed at a hotel or hostel, which can save you from going door to door. The office has flags outside and is near the bridge on
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José Pantin
Julio A. Roca
El Chaltén
Coronel Rosales
Los Gauchos
How do I get to Calafate from Puerto Natales? It’s about five hours with border crossing on bus lines Cootra or Zaajh.You can also arrive by plane to El Calafate Airport from other cities. What can I do in Calafate? Glaciers are the main attractions. Perito Moreno Glacier is the famous one. And there is a full-day boat trip to visit six other glaciers in the area (Upsala, Spegazzini, Onelli, Bolados, Agazzis, and Heim). How do I get to/from the Calafate airport? By the airport shuttle, which costs around $18 ARS per person. By taxi it’s $50 ARS. How do the taxis (remises) work? There are different remis companies, and you can’t just stop them on the street like other taxis.You have to call them from your accommodation, or go to one of the remis stops. Where is the information center in Calafate? The information center is in the bus station. Can I drink the tap water? In Calafate, you CANNOT drink the water.You CAN drink the water in Chaltén, everywhere except from Laguna Capri. Use your best judgment, though. Try to collect your water from areas where there aren’t too many people. Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores? Yes!!! The supermarkets don’t give you plastics bags, as they have been outlawed.Yay, progress! This goes for Calafate and Chaltén, so bring your own cloth bag or backpack. Otherwise you’ll be carrying your groceries around in a cardboard box. When are the stores open, anyway? In Calafate, they’re open from 9.30 a.m. until 10 p.m. in high season. In the winter, they’re open from 10 a.m. until 8 p.m. What’s the weather like in these parts? It’s Patagonia. The weather changes every five minutes. And it’s super windy in the summer. How can I visit Perito Moreno Glacier? There are tours that include pick up and guide. The regular bus entrance.You can also take one of the remises, though this is a more expensive option. What about ice hikes on the glacier? There’s a big ole monopoly to do the ice trek on Perito Moreno Glacier, through Hielo y Aventura. They offer two different treks: Minitrekking and the Big Ice. To visit the Upsala and other glaciers, you also have only one option: a full-day trip (from 7 a.m. till 6 p.m.) Bring your own lunch for the excursions. The Park has restaurants but they cost a pretty penny, and everybody goes to eat at the same time! Who was Perito Moreno? Francisco Moreno was an Argentine explorer, who explored much of the southern Andes and several Patagonian rivers. Perito means ‘expert’ in Spanish.
Calafate, Argentina do
El Calafate
Is it safe at night? Totally, but it’s always good to keep a rock handy. Where can I camp in El Calafate? There are a few different campsites; all are clean with good facilities, and all around ARS$18 per person. The best one is El Ovejero. Are there any cheap eating options? Calafate is pretty expensive, so if you really want to eat cheap, your best bet is to pick up something from the supermarket, or look for empanadas in one of the panaderías. Also, some hostels, like America del Sur, offer their guests all-you-can-eat asado (barbecue) dinners, with vegetarian options, and beer or wine for a reasonable price. What does Parque Nacional de los Glaciares include? Lago Roca, Perito Moreno, Upsala and other glaciers, and Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Laguna del Desierto, Cerro Torre).
and liqueurs. Legend has it that if you eat the fruit of the calafate bush, you will return to Patagonia. The center of town consists of about eight blocks along Avenue Libertador. Enjoy a good book and a cup of hot chocolate at Café Literario Borges y Alvares. For some delicious local fare with home-cooked flare, like cazuela de cordero, pastel de papas, guiso de lentejas, and fresh-baked bread that is likely to drive you nuts, head over to Pura Vida. Stop by La Boutique del Libro for a good variety of books in Spanish and English. If you’re looking for night life, there are two pubs open daily in the summer: La Tolderia and Don Diego, a large house which has served as a bar for more than 20 years.
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questions & answers
Located on the southern shore of stunning turquoise Lago Argentino, El Calafate is the jumping-off point for visiting Perito Moreno Glacier and the granite needles of Fitz Roy and El Torre near El Chaltén (Argentina’s trekking capital). Of the hundreds of glaciers that drain from the Southern Ice Field, Perito Moreno is one of few that is not receding. Its accessibility massive size are its draw, with a wall of jagged blue ice measuring about 4,500 meters across and 60 meters high. The town takes its name from the modest calafate bush, known for its bright yellow flowers and deep violet fruit, which is used to make sweets
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POPULATION: 20,000 FOUNDED: 1927 WHAT’S GROOVY: Biking the Lago Argentino shoreline JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 107 (hospital), 105 (fire dept.)
Av .L
Lago Argentino
the same side of the village. Where can I camp in El Chaltén? In the mountains! There are various campsites and all are free, except for Piedra del Fraile, which is on private property and costs ARS$25. Camp Poincenot is a good option for those jonesin’ to get a peek of Fitz Roy at dawn. In the village, Madsen at the end of town right next to the Fitz Roy Trail, is free. There are also a few pay-for campsites with real bathrooms and hot showers. Can I find rental equipment? Yep, from a variety of stores on the main drag. How many days should I plan to spend hiking? You at least need to stay one night there. If the weather is good, you can spend three nights or so doing some of the more famous trails and then visit
other places like Laguna del Desierto. Will my cell phone work in Chaltén? Nope. But what are you doing traveling with a cell phone anyway?
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Si tu destino es El Calafate, Did you know?
Cauquenes de Nimez Lodge te espera...
The Dynamic Duo
Cauquenes de Nimes - Manzana 363 Calafate, Arg Tel 492306 www.cauquenesdenimez.com.ar
El Calafate
El Chaltén
With its variety of food and lodging, Calafate is a town designed for tourism. You can rent a car, buy groceries, and visit the famous Perito Moreno Glacier. For a broader view of Calafate, veer off the main road to quieter streets, such as Moyano or Gregores. You’re likely to stumble upon interesting shops, such as that of Raul Martinez and Paula Maza, who gather objects from nature to make original art (Calle Ezekial Bustillo, high season). There’s no shortage of restaurants in Calafate, but the prices are anything but cheap. La Mina is open early for breakfast until late at night. With an ecclectic mix of music and rustic old mining photos, you might find yourself lingering there long after your last sip of wine or coffee. At bustling Casablanca, sink your teeth into something healthy, like a brown rice salad with colorful veggies. Viva La Pepa boasts bright décor, fresh flowers, and a shady setting, a refreshing place to enjoy sweet or savory crepes, crisp salads, or fresh-fruit smoothies. To savor a traditional meal, visit La Tablita, serving Patagonia since 1964. Their asados can’t be beat, and they offer plenty of vegetarian options to boot. For lunches that won’t break the bank, swing by the deli at Anonimo Supermercado, which offers ready-to-go grub. Il Postino, on 9 de Julio, has meat and vegetarian empanadas as well as quiches, a great meal to split with a friend, or take with you trekking to El Chaltén. There are also a few things to do that break away from the touristy vortex of main street. Plus they’re free, or darn close to it. Laguna Nimez eco-reserve, home to local birdlife, including upland geese, black-faced ibis, and flamingo, is about six blocks north of town, across the Arroyo. There’s a small entrance fee. To get a closer gander of Lago Argentino, rent a mountain bike (hourly and daily rates available) and head north on Avenida 17 de Octubre to the Avenida de la Costanera, the coastal road. Pedal out an hour to reach Punto Soberano, where the road ends and you can walk along the shore and drink in the turquoise waters of the lake. Just southeast of town, stroll to the Cañadon del Arroyo Calafate. There’s a creek that runs into Lago Argentino, and from here you can scramble up the canyon. For so-close-yet-so-far views of the town and lake, hike up Cerro Huiliche or Cerro Calafate. Ask around for the best route up.
Funky is the best word to describe Chaltén, a small village created in 1985 and growing fast. With no less than four panaderias (bakeries), its own microbrewery, a chocolateria, two book stores, plus a host of hostels, hotels, and restaurants, Chaltén manages to retain its Wild West feel, bumming along a dusty road. This is where Los Glaciares National Park invites you to its northern sector. Geologically it’s a sister park to Torres del Paine, but Los Glaciares is very different, especially in its philosophy. The Park is yours and, while you visit, it’s your job to protect it. Park entrance and camping are free, and facilities are kept to a minimum. Basically the only services are pitstyle latrines at every campsite. Hiking options range from a one-hour hike to Los Condores overlook, to five or six days in the backcountry, passing glaciers, pristine mountain lakes, leafy lenga forests, and rock spires like Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre.
While in Chaltén, check these spots... Super Mercado: Catering to the road weary, this shop has camping gear, trail grub, warm clothes, books, and souvenirs. Calle Lago del Desierto near Guemes. Josh Aike Chocolatería: Established about 14 years ago, this is the first stop for many climbers celebrating or bemoaning their efforts on the towers. Calle Lago del Desierto. Capilla a los Escaladores: Small chapel built in honor of climbers who have died here. Built by Austrians, of mostly Austrian materials, in honor of Toni Egger who died descending Cerro Torre with Italian Cesare Maestri in 1959 (the disputed first ascent). Costanera Norte at Rio de las Vueltas. Hostel Rancho Grande: The first hostel in Chaltén, at the north end of the village. Showers available (check for hours and prices), a great service if you’re camping gratis at Madsen, just to the north. Marco Polo Books: Decent selection of books in Spanish, maps, and regional books in English. Calle Andreas Madsen 15. Bodegon El Chaltén: Local microbrewery and restaurant. Centrally located, a favorite.
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Bariloche, Argentina San Carlos de Bariloche is Argentina’s gateway to Patagonia. The city’s name originated from a typo on a letter addressing a major English settler of the area as San Carlos instead of Don Carlos. Despite the error, the name stuck.The city center is an eclectic mix of shopping, delectable chocolate stores, accommodation for every budget, lively bars and packed dance clubs. Beyond the center, you’ll catch views ranked by National Geographic as some of the ‘worlds’ best.’ Feast your eyes on the hand-carved log and stone architecture and the lake and mountains beyond it. Trailheads to the area’s main attraction, Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, are easily accessible. Created in 1934, the Park boasts rugged mountains,
POPULATION: 150,000 WHAT’S GROOVY: Parque Municipal Llao Llao, eXtremo Sur (Morales 765) for kayaking, Carol Jones (M.Victoria 5600) for guided horse tours JUST IN CASE: 101 (police), 100 (fire), 107 (ambulance)
questions & answers How did Bariloche get its name? Bariloche interestingly enough got its name from a typo. At the end of the 19th century an English pioneer of the Nahuel Huapi area, Enrique Paterson, wrote a letter to a settler of the southeast sector of Nahuel Huapi, Carlos Wiederhold Piwonka. Paterson mistakenly referred to Mr. Piwonka as San Carlos instead of Don Carlos (Don being a polite way to refer to an owner of property or a company, and San, referring to a saint.). The name not only was a compliment to Mr. Piwonka but it also stuck as the area’s name. On July 26, 1927 the name was officially decreed the title of Bariloche.
number 30, kiddy-corner from the YPF gas station has the maps and information you are looking for.
What is the usual ski season?
Can I hike year-round?
The ski season typically runs from mid-June to mid-October.
Yes, the lower elevation trails are generally free of snow all year. The higher elevation trails are available from November to May.
Where do the boat cruises leave from? From Puerto Pañuelo, 25 km west of town, across from the Llao Llao Hotel. Can I drink the water? Absolutely! It may be the best you ever tasted. How many people live here? There are between 85,000 and 150,000 full-time residents, depending on who you ask. How far is El Bolsón from here?
When is fishing season? The Limay River, one of the largest rivers in the area, drains into Nahuel Huapi. It is the best body of water for catching big fish. This eastern flowing river is notorious for large rainbow trout in November and December and large brown trout in March and April. How can I check airline status? Go to www.aa2000.com.ar to find out if your plane is on time.
El Bolsón is about an hour and a half south. It’s a gorgeous drive and well worth the trip if you have an extra day or two. How far is it to the Chilean border? The Chilean border is about two hours away by car, traveling through Villa La Angostura. How do I communicate with the world? Look for a locutorio, many have both internet and telephone booths available. Where can I change money? There is a casa de cambio on Avenida Mitre, one block from the Centro Civico.
Where can I get the best steak? El Boliche de Alberto is Bariloche’s “it” place for succulent steak. There are three locations, the restaurant at Bustillo kilometer 8 having the best reputation.
such as Mount Tronador, flourishing Valdivian rainforests and the wide-open, windblown steppe. From day hikes to expeditions, visitors can enjoy every style of mountaineering and trekking is available. The single tracks lead to manned huts offering beds, hot meals and, sometimes, home-brewed beers. Check with Club Andino for maps, trail conditions and other inquiries. Bariloche is also home to South America’s largest ski area, Catedral. A small village in itself, Catedral offers over 30 chair lifts, 120 kilometers (74 miles) of groomed runs and 1,200 hectares (2,965 acres) of skiable terrain. Catedral’s base area is also a summer activity center with mountain biking, hiking and outdoor concerts.
Approximately 15 minutes.
How far is the airport from the city center?
Where can I find a good trail map and information on the hiking trails? Club Andino, on the corner of 20 de Febrero,
What’s up with the siesta? Argentines need to catch up on their sleep. With dinner starting around 10 p.m., it is safe to say the Argentines are night owls. Stores in el centro are more apt to stay open during the day. Grocery stores and locutorios tend not to go on siesta. Normal siesta hours are from 12:30 to 4:30 (give or take a half hour). Do I need a reservation for the refugios (mountain huts)? No, but they are on a first-come, first-serve basis. Is it worth renting a car? Absolutely. Many of the treasures of the area are not accessible by bus. Also with the freedom of a car you can come and go as you like. Is there a monster en Lago Nahuel Huapi? Yes, the Lochness monster’s distant relative, Nahuelito, lives in the lake, but he is very friendly. What are they looking for at the traffic stops? We aren’t sure, but we have found that the less Spanish you speak, the better. What’s with all large groups in matching outfits?
is a hot spot for graduating classes to come and celebrate their new-found freedom. They come in huge groups and all wear the same rented outfits as kind of a rah-rah thing. The Brazilians do the same thing in the winter. What’s with all the Saint Bernards and their owners? These guys sell you the right to take a picture of their dog. Beware though. If you take a picture of the canine without paying for it, chaos may ensue. Where should I go to get the best sandwich? Morfy’s, side street next to the civic center. Where can I find the best ice cream? There’s a rainbow of ice cream shops in the area, but Jujua is hands down the favorite. Find them in the city center, in the kilometers as well as in El Bolsón,Villa La Angostura and San Martín. What year did the first car show up in Bariloche? The first car made its way to Bariloche in 1910. It was a Mercedes Benz and was known as the “car of the government” due to its famous passengers. A Ford T was brought in a bit later. When did the Bariloche’s chocolate fascination begin? The first chocolate store was created on the corner of Mitre and Beschtedt in 1928. The Swiss pioneer, Carlos Triberholn, is the grandfather of South America’s best chocolate.
It’s the latest thing, grab a few friends, start a team and pick your own colors. No, seriously. Bariloche
San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina
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Villegas
Av de los Pio ne ro
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Morales
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Bar-iloche... not Bear-iloche.
There are no bears here. By Shanie Matthews
Bariloche is a land with many faces. It is a city of 150,000. Most Argentines visit Bariloche as a rite of passage after high school graduation.The majority of its geography is occupied by protected national forest. The thriving parks are interlaced with manicured trails leading to inviting mountain huts. Bariloche’s chocolate and homemade beer is equivalent to Germany’s excellent creations. The prevalent log and stone architecture is a local handcrafted specialty. And, crazy enough, Bariloche served as refuge for both Nazi soldiers and Jewish survivors of WWII. The city is a mixture of active main streets, tasty restaurants, energetic bars, lively night clubs and every type of accommodation. Beyond el centro, the city hugs the southern coast of Lake Nahuel Huapi, dispersing out into suburban and rural villages. Although the intense beauty and worthy trails of the area are found outside of town, those looking to be close to bars and nightlife should stay in stumbling distance from the hustle and bustle of the city center. Accommodation in Bariloche ranges from international hostels in the middle of the city to the award-winning Hotel Llao Llao, outside of town. The hostel options are numerous. They range in price and cleanliness from bottom of the barrel to decent rooms. Most of the hosterias and hostels are open to longer stays, especially if only for a month or two and the time period is during slow season. The quieter times of year, known as shoulder seasons, are October to Christmas and mid-March till June. The hostels and hosterias range in price, starting around $20 a night. It is best to contact various places prior to arriving and letting them know what time period you’re thinking about. Many places offer a discount if they’re informed of your plan ahead of time. If staying in a private rental is more your cup of tea, check out www.welcomeargentina.com or www. ruta0.com with long lists of possibilities for your home away from home. Apartments and rooms in the city center can be difficult to find during high season, so plan ahead. The city’s main shopping district is located on the avenues of Bartolomé Mitre and Perito Moreno. Mitre starts off at Centro Civico, a classic log and stone building, built by the famed architect Alejandro Bustillo who constructed many of the older Bariloche buildings. The street continues beyond the main plaza, lined with shops filled with chocolate, knick knacks, sweaters,T-shirts, handicrafts and a few “fast food” dining options. Bariloche is known for its chocolate and the local favorite, Mamushka, is located on Mitre. An outdoor art and crafts fair is located in the city square, kiddycorner from Centro Civico. The fair operates yearround except for Mondays and bad weather days. One block up and parallel to Mitre is Perito Moreno and San Martín. The street calls itself by both names, the two being split by the YPF gas station and Morales street. It’s home to
Bariloche’s cathedral, built in 1946, lies just south of Mitre. Opposite the cathedral is a huge erratic rock, carried there by a glacier in the last Ice Age. the most popular tourist bar in town, Wilkinney (594 San Martín), which is also the city’s best place for Argentine folk music. You’ll also find one of Bariloche’s movie theaters here. (The Moreno branch is located left of the YPF gas station, the other is inside Shopping, the mall complex on O’Nelli). Below Mitre a block, on Juan Manuel de Rosas, is a small, indoor ice skating rink located above a popular live music venue, Puerto Rock. The rink is located directly on the shores of Huapi, offering spectacular views. Puerto Rock is slowly becoming filled with well-known Argentine musicians, with frequent weekend concerts. Bariloche also hosts several educational
and cultural museums, with a few in the city center, the kilometers, and Colonia Suiza (the little Swiss colony located off of Circuito Chico). From chocolate to Mapuche Indians, from trout to the gaucho’s life, northern Patagonia’s history is covered. The majority of the museums are small mom & pop operations. Others, like the Museo de Chocolate, are large buildings that encompass an entire factory. Dining options also abound. Some higher-end restaurants are located outside of the center, in the kilometers of Bustillo. Some of the restaurants within the tourist shopping area of Mitre are pretty basic and are not the city’s best choices. Argentina is known for its beef, and
Bariloche has one of the best parrillas (bbq restaurant) in the country: El Boliche de Alberto (Villegas 347, Ph: 43 1433).Alberto is actually a series of restaurants, both in the center and out in the kilometers. The restaurant has been around for over 30 years. The local family who owns it still interact with guests. Depending on who you ask, the parrilla located at kilometer 8 has better cuts of beef, but both serve fantastic meals. Alberto offers the full spectrum of the Argentine asado. The bife de lomo, ordered a punto, is highly recommended. The portions are healthy and served family style. During high season, expect huge lines during normal Argentine dinner hours (21:00 onward). Alberto also has a cluster of pasta restaurants in and around town. If you are looking for a romantic, unique dining experience with a little Indian fusion, try Naan (Campichuelo 568, Ph: 42 1785). Located within a private home, the family has changed their living room, with an expansive view of the city, into a gourmet dining experience with a small number of tables. The ambiance is elegant and perfect for endearing couples or double dates. Reservations required. Restaurant Virtuoso y Tarquino should be put on your list for two reasons. First, the building’s log and stone hand-craftsmanship is one of the town’s best examples of architectural art, with a hobbit-like arched doorway and a hand-carved wooden tea pot as the door handle and two trees growing through the middle of the dining area. Second, they have the most diverse and tasty salad bar in town. The menu also includes a wide range of parrilla choices, pastas and German dishes. (Located at 24 de Septiembre and Saavedra, Ph: 43 4774.) Bariloche nightlife is hopping in the city center. The combination of thousands of Argentine youth celebrating graduation and a multitude of international travelers creates a city ready to have a good time. It’s a fun and crazy mix that often leads to hilarious conversations involving multiple languages. The large dance clubs are mainly located on the road parallel to the lake, Juan Manuel de Rosas, each offering their own atmosphere. The five large discos (Grisu, Cerebral, Roket, By Pass and Genux) rotate on what age group they are hosting. The doorman will let you know if your peers are inside or congregating at the disco down the street. There are also smaller bars and nightspots, like the Roxy, Roxbury and El Sueño, on paralleling streets, España and San Martín, located one and two blocks uphill from the lake. Be ready to stay up late when partying Argentine-style. The real fun gets going around 3 a.m. and continues on way past sunrise. The northern gateway city to Argentina’s Patagonia is an active metropolis, with fun sport activities, gourmet dining, boisterous nightlife and lots of cultural options. Just don’t forget to venture beyond the cluster-zone of the city center and into the kilometers, to check out the true beauty of this region.
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museums
Refugio to Refugio Top 5 Nahuel Huapi treks
The frosted mug and homemade beer had to be a dream. I was six hours into the dense, flourishing forests of the Patagonian Andes. A wandering--yet perfectly manicured-- singletrack trail led me to a beautiful, rustic log cabin. It was my sanctuary, restaurant and place of entertainment for a few nights, until I decided it was time to hike on to the next Andean refuge. Welcome to the reality of the trail circuits of northern Patagonia. The trail system, created in the mid 1900s, flows through miles of untouched, virgin bamboo forest. Glaciated mountains, thick timberland and crystal clear rivers intensify the beauty of the pristine playground. The paths are interlinked by fully stocked and manned huts. Here’s the lowdown on five hikes in the virgin forests of Parque Nacional de Nahuel Huapi. 1. Refugio Frey to Refugio San Martín. The grand daddy of them all, Refugio Frey is surrounded by a surreal setting.The mountains are rugged like a baby Chamonix, the dense forest resembles Alaska, and the rock climbing and winter backcountry descents are world-class. The laborious hike to the hut can either begin by chairlift from the Catedral ski area or by trail. Either is more or less a four-hour excursion. The log and rock refuge, built in 1957, has the capacity for 40 people, including mattresses and blankets. From Frey you can continue on through thick forests to Refugio San Martín, where emerald-green Lake Jakob awaits you. The hut, built in 1952, is outfitted for 30 people. It’s a five-to-seven hour hike between the two huts, with an elevation gain of 3,000 feet. The hike out is a five-to-seven hour stroll, following the clear, blue water of Rucaco River.
about 500 vertical feet. The trail wanders through rainforest-like terrain, full of Patagonian bamboo and native cypress and coigue trees. You’ll visit soft sand beaches, which frame the emerald-green water of Lago Mascardi. The trail continues to a hidden lagoon where it is said the forests are magical. At Laguna Llum, you’ll find an abandoned hut, Refugio Vivac. From Laguna Llum, you can also continue on to Pampa Linda at the base of Mount Tronador. A tent is vital for this excursion. There are a few different ways to locate information on these and other hikes, like Club Andino Bariloche, an organization created out of the mantra to interact, enjoy and spread the knowledge of the mountains has offices throughout Argentina. They offer maps and information about the various trails, access and current conditions. The main Bariloche hub is a non-descript building located in the center of town, across the street from the Moreno YPF gas station. Look for a green sign that says ‘Información de Montaña.’ Another place for the best maps and local guide books is a little fishbowl of a place on the corner of Villegas and Moreno. There are two different book series that cover the Bariloche Lakes region: Info Trekking de la Patagonia and Guía Sendas y Bosques.The Nahuel Huapi editions of both books are must-haves. Hiking through the world’s longest and second highest mountain range is a life changing way to get in touch with nature. Bariloche gives the
adventurous many choices to lose themselves in the antique forests and towering granite mountains. And with so many hiking choices, you’re sure to find your own piece of paradise.
Did You Know? El Bolsón Arts and Crafts Fair: La Feria El Bolsón is a special trip that all visitors to the region should experience. The town, inundated by hippies in the ‘60s, packs quite the flower-power punch. The craft fair really brings folks out of the woodwork. At an elevation of about 1,000 feet above and tucked between the Andes to the west and some decently sized mountains to the east, El Bolsón has its own microclimate. The weather is perfect for the cultivation of fine fruits, and it’s a great getaway from Bariloche when it rains. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays from around 11 a.m.-4 p.m., they host a big craft fair in the central plaza. In addition to all sorts of fruit products, there are many talented local artists making wood and leather products as well as fine jewelry. Great food and even better locally brewed beer add to the mix. On peak days in the summer, there can be upwards of 300 different vendors.
2. Refugio San Martín to Laguna Negra. If your wanderlust is still strong, then continue to Refugio Italia, which is based out of Laguna Negra.This is a more difficult hike, requiring compass work and agility. It takes about 6-9 hours to connect the two huts. You’ll venture through dense old-growth woods and the open steppe offering clear views of the mountains and class-three rock climbing. From Refugio Italia it’s another five hours of easy hiking back to civilization. 3. Refugio Lopez to Laguna Negra. This popular trailhead tends to be busy at the entrance and near the small kiosco, which incidentally has great choripan (bread with chorizo). The trail starts with a steep climb offering panoramic views of the Lakes District. Walk three hours to arrive to a pink-stucco, sixty-person refuge. From Refugio Lopez it is a five-to-seven-hour hike of medium difficulty to Refugio Italia, with an elevation gain of 2,500 feet. 4. Laguna Negra to Pampa Linda. Another option from Refugio Italia is to continue on toward the glaciated faces of Mount Tronador. This is considered one of the world’s prime hiking trails, set within the gigantic Andes and close Tronador’s immense ice fields. The excursion is about 3-5 days, and it ends in Tronador National Park at Pampa Linda. There are campsites along the way and a hotel in Pampa Linda. To attempt this journey, you should have camping and trekking experience and know how to use a compass. 5. Lago Mascardi to Laguna Llum.
This easy, two-to-three-hour hike climbs
Bariloche’s old growth forests
“Francisco P. Moreno” Museum of Patagonia Opened by the National Parks service in 1940, the Patagonia museum is located on the east side of the Centro Cívico. Its name is after the Andean and Patagonian explorer Moreno, who donated much of the land that is now Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. The areas natural sciences, ethnography, prehistory, and regional and local history are covered in the museum. There is also a library and bookstore. Address: Centro Cívico. Telephone: (02944) 42 2309 Monday to Saturday 10:00-13:00 Tuesday to Friday 10:00-12:30 & 14:00-19:00 “Rosendo Pascual” Geological and Paleontological Museum Location: Bosque Petrificado 367,Villa Los Coihues, Lago Gutierrez, Bariloche. Telephone: (02944) 46 7578 Everyday 09:30-12:30 & 15:00-20:00 Otto Meiling Museum Location: Cerro Otto Telephone: (02944) 42 2266 Every day from 10:00-12:00 & 15:00-20:00 Salon Cultural de Usos Mutiples y Paseo de los Artesanos (Muti-use cultural hall and crafts display) Display and sale of local crafts Location: Moreno and Villegas streets. Monday to Friday: 09:00-17:00; Saturday 10:0013:00 & 17:00-20:00; Sunday afternoons. Casa Museo de los Viejos Colonos (The house museum of the old settlers) Location: Colonia Suiza Telephone: (02944) 42 3379 / 44 8330 Wednesday from 3:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Cerro Otto Art Gallery Display of Michelangelo replicas (original size) Location: Mt Otto Telephone: (02944) 44 1035 Every day 10:00-18:30 Indoor Feria Artesanal Municipal (local art and craft fair) Display and sale of local crafts Address: Moreno and Villegas streets. Open every day, 10:00-20:00 La Casa del Acuarista (aquarium house) 50 aquariums with Patagonian fish, trout, ornamental and rare species. Address: Gallardo and Rolando street, 1° floor. Telephone: (02944) 42 3077 / 15 604346 Monday to Friday 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-21:00 Saturday 17:00-20:00. Centro de Salmonicultura (Salmon Farming Center) Road to Mt Catedral (Kilometer 11) Telephone: (02944) 46 1021 Monday to Friday 11:00-16:00 Fenoglio Sacifia Museo de Chocolate Bustillo km 1 Telephone: (02944) 43 9204 Factory hours: Monday-Thursday 11:00-15:00. Museum and chocolate shop hours: every day 11:00-19:30.
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Pucón, Chile back riding or mountain biking, you’ll get your fill of thrills. Visit the Mapuche Museum on Caupolicán and learn about the culture of the indigenuos people. Take a cruise on Villarrica Lake aboard a steam-powered vessel, or just relax on one of the many black sand beaches. Shop for locally made handicrafts, and dine in one of more than 50 local restaurants, before ending the day with a long soak in one of the geothermal pools. Pucón also has a great nightlife and is relatively crime-free. The well-lit streets beckon night owls to hit the town after dark to dance the night away, or try their luck at the craps tables in the casino.
When can I climb the Villarrica Volcano? All year round, but winter is the best time if you want smaller crowds.
In 1984, but that was nothing major. The time before that was 1974, and 24 people were killed.
There are maps in town for just a few bucks. Check the corner of O’Higgins and Ansorena.
Just a few blocks from the center, you can soak up all the UV you want, just don’t forget the SPF!
Do I need a permit to camp in the Park?
Yep, it’s about $8 bucks. No, there’s no camping fee, but it’s restricted around the volcano. Remember, it is an active volcano! If you use a guide, tranportation is included, but taxis can get you there, too. It’s about $5 USD to go by taxi to the park entrance.
Plenty, with some great views of the volcano, just ask around about where to go. Good People, Handmade Organic Food and Real Coffee
Where is the best white water rafting?
organic food, wine and real italian coffee O’Higgins 311, Local 5 Pucón • trawen@gmail.com
El Barroso Fresia 135a Pucon, Chile Wood Fire Grilled Steaks Chilean Wines
Iglesia Jesus de Nazaret
It all depends on the weather and amount of rainfall, but generally speaking, the season is from late September to early April. For the upper Trancura, you’ll have to wait till around December. And remember during the height of the season (about December-February), the rapids can get pretty crowded. What else can I do around here? Aside from visiting the Volcano and rafting, you can enjoy the amazing scenery on horseback, paragliding, or parachuting. Fly fishing is also very popular here, and you can book boat fishing tours. Keep in mind that all fishing is catch and release.
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There are three runs, the most exciting being the upper Río Trancura, with class III and IV rapids, depending on the time of the season. The lower Trancura is tamer but still class II-III in most places. You can also do a longer trip of a couple days on Bío Bío through various companies in town. When’s the best time to go rafting?
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In case of a backcountry emergency, contact the Carbiñeros de Chile. They will organize the 50 or more guides, who live in Pucón and are always ready to lend a hand to their fellow outdoor enthusiasts.
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What is the winter like?
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Is there a search and rescue outfit in the area?
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Yep! Enjoy the experience.
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Most outfitters have everything you need for the activity you want to participate in, and the gear is usually included.
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Can I rent gear in town?
Are there any good day hikes in the area?
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Is transportation to the trailheads available?
Can I drink the water in the Park without treating it?
Super chill. It’s a great scene for winter sports with fewer crowds, and it’s such an incredible experience to ski or board on an active volcano.
Geronimo de Alderete Capitania de Puerto
Lincoyan
Absolutely, there are numerous bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season.
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Iglesia Parroquial Santa Cruz
Caupolican
Is there a night life in Pucón?
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Is there an entrance fee to the Park?
There is a nine-hole course on the peninsula, and you can rent a set of clubs in town.
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Can I get a good map of the trails in Villarrica National Park?
Is there a nice beach on the lake to relax and swim?
Is there a golf course nearby?
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When was the last time it erupted?
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Pucón has a small hospital with an X-ray machine, and there are a few dentists to choose from. Anything serious is treated in Temuco, about an hour and a half away by car.
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What if I need a doctor or dentist?
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You can’t pitch a cat without hitting a hostel in Pucón.
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Are there hostels close to the bus station?
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You bet, it’s smoking 24-7, not unlike some people we know, but that is a good thing. It means the volcano is venting. If it stops smoking, then it’s time to start worrying.
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Mapuche, and they are very proud of their heritage. They really gave the Spanish a run for their money back in the day.
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Is the volcano active?
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What are the local indigenous people called?
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Colo Colo
questions & answers
Pucón, a quaint town built in the style of a German village, has something for everyone, from the thrill seeking adrenaline junkie to the couple looking for a romantic getaway. Along with things to see and do, you’ll find accommodation for all budgets, but hop online and book early, because most places fill up fast during the summer months. Pucón explodes with life during the summer months (OctoberMarch), when sunny days, green forests and blue skies, along with the alwaysactive Villarrica Volcano lure the masses. Whether you are looking for a guided ascent of the volcano, trekking in the Villarrica National Park, rafting or kayaking the Class III and IV rapids of the Trancura River, or an afternoon horse-
Av Las Araucarias
POPULATION: 21,000 FOUNDED: 1883 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hotsprings, lots to choose from on the main drag. JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)
Arauco
Ramon Guinez
Monasterio Santa Clara
Who should I be tipping here? Your waiter would appreciate a 10% tip, if you’re happy with the service. The kid who bags your groceries at the market works solely on tips. And don’t forget to tip your guide if you have enjoyed a particularly good excursion. Most taxis would be happy to accept any small change left over from the transaction as well. Where is the closest airport? During January and February, Lan and Sky Airlines fly direct to the Pucón airport. Booking online has been problematic in the past, especially with a foreign credit card.You’re better off booking your flight locally at one of the carriers’ offices.
Alternatively, you can fly to and from the international airport in Temuco, about two hours away from Pucón, by bus. What options are there for public transport? Buses between the nearby town of Villarrica and Pucón run every 15 minutes through Buses Jac. Buses from Puerto Montt run four times a day, and from Temuco, every half hour. Taxis and colectivos are available all over town. But, if you want to get off the beaten path or have a time constraint and want to see some more in less time, rent a car. There are a couple of car rental options on Colo Colo Street.You can also rent a bike for about 10 bucks a day.
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Chile’s street smarts As you navigate the various Chilean cities with your trusty street maps, you may wonder why most of the street names are surnames and who these people were? Past Chilean presidents inhabit some of the names, but the streets also honor people and places with great significance in the area’s historic development. Here are a few common street names... • LADRILLEROS. Juan Ladrilleros was a Spanish sailor who, in 1557, was sent by the Spanish government to find a sea exit from the Magellan Straits, west to the Pacific. Due to lack of food, energy and the loss of many men, he decided that the voyage into the body of water that surrounds Puerto Natales would be their last hope in reaching their goal. (Hence the name Última Esperanza, or Last Hope. Incidentally the Spanish government kept this blunder a secret for over 300 years! • O´HIGGINS. The Liberator Bernardo O’Higgins, together with José de San Martín, crossed from Argentina with a Chile-Argentine army and finally drove out the Spanish. He restored Chile’s independence and became Chile’s first President in 1818. • BLANCO ENCALADA. The first Commander of the Chilean Navy, Manuel Blanco Encalada was born in Buenos Aires (1790), but later chose the land of his Chilean mother as his home. A great political figure, he was President of the Republic for a mere two months in 1826. • BULNES. Manuel Bulnes’ military victory over the Bolivian-Peruvian confederation in 1839, secured his personal victory of becoming President of the Republic (1841-1851). • ARTURO PRATT. A valiant naval captain who died at the Battle of Iquique (1879), when he boarded a Peruvian Ironclad ship (The Huascar), accompanied by only one sergeant. • ESMERALDA. The name of Captain Arturo Pratt’s ship in the Battle of Iquique. • TOMAS ROGERS. Juan Tomas Rogers, an English Captain serving in the Chilean Navy, was the first visitor to arrive at Perito Moreno Glacier. On arrival, he named it Francisco Gomaz in honor of the expedition. Many years later the Argentineans renamed it in honor of Perito Francisco Moreno, an
T r af k i n tü
A M a p u c h e Tra d ition The Mapuche people are the indigenous inhabitants of central and southern Chile and southern Argentina. They are known for their closeness to the land and its resources. The very meaning of Mapuche is “people of the land,” which really says a lot about who they are and what they believe in. They are proud of their traditions, many of which they still practice today. There is one tradition, trafkintü, however that stands out among the others for its simple beauty and usefulness. Trafkintü was borne from necessity in the Mapuche culture and basically means to share or exchange. This can mean to exchange news, ideas, knowledge, animals or anything else of use. Each spring a ceremony is held to give thanks to the sun, the earth and water for the life they nourish on this planet. The Mapuche community get together and share what seeds and plants they have with others, down to advice on how to care for the plants, so that they may grow and benefit the community as a whole. Imagine, if you will, a world where sharing and cooperation was the norm rather than
by Thomas S Daly
Argentine hydrographer. • BAQUEDANO. General Manuel Baquedano defeated Peru at the Battle of Los Angeles (March 1880), captured Arica (May 1880), and later captured Lima (Jan 1881). • CHORRILLOS. The site of the first battle in the wave to take Lima, Peru (Jan 1881). • BALMACEDA. José Balmaceda, leader of a liberal anticlerical group, prevented Argentina from entering the war of the Pacific in 1878. As President of the Republic (1886-91), he introduced a wide reform program, which led to civil war. He later fled to Argentina where he committed suicide. • EBERHARD. Captain Hermann Eberhard was an explorer and first settler of the Province of Última Esperanza in Chile. He named the hill that overlooks Puerto Natales after his first daughter, Dorotea. Lago Sofía is named after his second daughter. In 1892, it was actually one of his workers who discovered the famous Milodon Cave, where the remains of various prehistoric animals were found, including sabertoothed tigers, camels, deer and of course the giant sloth milodon. Today, the Eberhard family still lives on their estancia at Puerto Consuelo, just outside Puerto Natales. • KRUGER. Ricardo Kruger was a government official posted at Puerto Consuelo when the Argentinian warship (The Azopardo) arrived in 1896 to claim the area in the name of Argentina. Kruger declined to lower the Chilean flag and the Argentineans left without fuss. Due to this event the Chilean government populated Puerto Pratt as a warning station for future attempts by the Argentine navy. • PILOTO PARDO. Captain Luis Pardo was a sailor who risked his life, and those of his men, to rescue the 22 castaways from the Endurance (Shackleton Expedition 1915-16). His tugboat “The Yelcho,” had no double hull, no heating, no electric light and no radio. Despite the courageous acts of Pardo and his crew, Shackleton only mentioned Pardo’s name once in his 386-page book-- in the preface! • PEDRO MONTT. Son of the President Manuel Montt Towers. He himself became President of the Republic between 1906-1910.
by Anthony Riggs
competing with one another to get ahead. Sure, great things have come about from competition and the drive to make a better mouse trap. Perhaps, though, we can find a healthy balance between the two. Rather than buying more and more items we might only use once, borrow from your neighbor and vice versa. Rather than competing with the mythical Joneses, share what you have with them. You may just find that the quality of life improves a bit for both parties. We could learn a lot from a culture that was considered by the conquering Spanish to be uncivilized and lacking in refinement. While visiting Pucón and enjoying all that this area has to offer, take a little time to learn about the original inhabitants of this enchanting part of Chile. Talk to the local artisans selling their handcrafts in and around town. If you get to know a little about them, you may find you share a lot in common with them. Visit the Mapuche Museum located in the Hotel Araucanian on the road entering town from Villarica, Caupolicán 243. It all starts with you.
Pl a nnin g me als for the t rail
R oc kfall, Sc ree & Boulder fields
Eating properly while on the trail will not only keep your energy up, but also keep the team happy and postive. Planning the amounts and types of food is one of the biggest challenges of any backcountry trip. If you’re traveling in a group, find out if anybody has any food restrictions (vegetarians, food allergies?). Discuss the menu before you head to the store. Make a day-by-day list of meals and snacks, complete with ingredients, for the exact amount of people in your group. Breakdown how many scoops of oatmeal you’ll need, the number of dry soup packets and and chocolate bars. Try not to plan for too much food. If you come home with enough grub to last you another day or two, it means you carried an extra 1-2 kilos in your pack. It’s best to shoot for 3,000 calories per day. Light eaters can get away with less (maybe 2,500) where a big eater might want to bump it up to around 3,500. Dehydrated meals are all the rave, but they often taste like cardboard. Sure, they might save some weight in your pack, but they take away some of the fun of preparing meals at camp. If you can cook it at home, there is a way to cook it on the trail. Prepping spices and cut veggies at home also makes packing and consumption easier. After the big meal shop, remove all packaging and excess garbage that you won’t need on the trail. This step will make more space in your pack and leave you with less to carry out later. Repack all your food into doubled and labeled, resealable plastic bags. Consider it a fun challenge to eat well and pack light. When packing your tools for cooking, try to not bring any piece of gear that only serves one purpose. Don’t bring a cutting board, for example. Something like the lid to your cooking pot can double as a cutting surface.
Trekking and climbing through boulder fields, talus and scree means dealing with possible rockfall or other hazards. In such areas, make intentional, confident steps, and keep your balance and agility in tact. Always be aware of others trekking beneath you, in the fall line. Walk side by side, instead of in a single file line, to reduce the chances of knocking a rock loose and hitting a trekker below. In confined areas or gullies, where spreading out isn’t possible, walk directly behind the person in front of you, so loose rocks don’t have the time or distance to build speed before they hit someone. Traveling up gulleys one-by-one to safety zones, out of the way of possible rockfall, is another option. Should you ever rap a rock loose, of any size, yell “ROCK!” so others can take cover or move out of the way. Discuss this system with your group in advance. Typically, people’s first reaction to “ROCK!” is to raise their heads up to see what’s going on. A good way to get your teeth knocked out. The proper response is to look Hawaii and burrow your head downward, using your backpack to protect your back, neck and head. Climb with your eyes. Take moments to pause and plan your next step, before you take it. Use you hands for balance. Don’t be afraid to work your way up a boulder field scrambling with all four limbs. Walk on the tops of large, stable boulders, when you can. It’s easier on the knees and gives you the best vantage point to plan your next steps. Do not walk in loose sand under boulders. Doing so can shift the balance of the huge rocks and cause them to roll onto you.
so cks & shoes Before undertaking a multi-day trek consider this: new socks, old shoes. It’s not a good time to see if those new shoes work. SOCKS: It’s amazing how important sock selection is when engaged in an long day hike or multi-day trek. The coarse threads of hiking socks eventually begin to dig into your skin causing discomfort and blisters. Avoid this by wearing a thin nylon liner sock as a first layer. Any pair of light socks will do in a pinch. Bring an extra pair for replacement half way. There’s something refreshing about putting on a pair of socks half-way through a killer hike. Waterproof socks can do more damage than good. These unbreathable socks will hold all the sweat and moisture against your skin, giving you blisters and hot spots. SHOES: The success and enjoyment of a serious trek is directly related to your shoe selection. Choose light, flexible shoes over stiff, heavy hiking boots. Every pound of shoe is the equivalent to carrying 7-9 pounds on your back. Minimize shoe weight by selecting a cross-trainer with ankle support, a trail-running shoe, or one of the lighter hiking shoes that are readily available. When you go shopping for “hiking” shoes, you’ll likely be encouraged to buy something with “great ankle support” and a steel shank so you won’t “feel the rocks.” This makes sense if you’re planning to carry a 60-pound pack and trekking through scree (small rocks) or other rugged terrain. However, if you’re staying on established trails, lighter, more flexible shoes are fine.
feminine hy giene On the trail it’s important to have a plan for that special time of the month. A change in environment, physical exercise and the stresses attached to these things can sometimes lead to changes in a woman’s cycle, including early or late cycle start, cessation or a heavier flow. While there is no permanent worry in either case, it’s a good idea to be prepared. Experienced female guides typically carry extra sanitary material, just in case. In general carrying one-third more tampons or pads is a safe bet, even if you’re not expecting your cycle to come while you’re in the woods. For disposal, the same rules of waste apply: Pack it in. Pack it out. Do not bury tampons or pads! Aside from the fact that they take a long time to biodegrade, they also present a fire hazard if they become unburied. A doubled, resealable plastic bag works well. Place this bag system into a small stuff sack to keep it private. If you’re worried about smell, try crushing a regular aspirin and sprinkling it into the bag. As far as peeing in the woods is concerned, men may not need to worry about toilet paper, but women take such things into consideration. Carrying a constant supply of toilet paper, always ready and handy, can be inconvenient. Plus, it’s more weight to carry. Consider reusing a bandana or special cloth as a pee rag. It may sound gross, but when it will dry out when you lay it in the sun or tie to the back of your rucksack on a warm day. The rag will be sterilized and dry enough to reuse until you get it to camp for a wash.
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Puerto Varas, Chile
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In Puerto Varas, at the intersection of San Bernardo and Martìnez, you’ll find minibuses that go to Ensenada, Petrohué, and Lago Todos Los Santos every day at 09:15, 11:00, 14:00 and 16:00, with scheduled returns.
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How can I get around without a car?
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Maipo 1010, Puerto Varas, Chile Phone: 65-232880 www.interpatagonia.com/carlaminte
There are over 100 different species of birds and more than 30 different species of mammals, such as the pudú (the world’s tiniest deer), puma, grey fox, nutria (a type of semi-aquatic otter), and two Chilean marsupials: the comadreja trompuda and the monito del monte (mountain monkey), which isn’t a monkey at all.
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Private bathrooms German breakfast Cable TV Central heating WiFi Man spricht deutsch
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What kind of wildlife can I see in the park?
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What else is there to do? There is fishing in the Ensenada, Petrohué, and Peulla sectors, swimming in the Ensenada and Petrohué sectors, skiing in the Picada sector, where you will find “La Burbuja,”,mountaineering in the Picada and Osorno volcano sectors, trekking in the Picada, Ensenada, and Peulla sectors, wildlife observation in all areas of the park, and horseback riding in Peulla.
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In general, the water supply is safe, but be use your better judgment. In the Park, you’ll be fine, but in town you might want to boil the water. If you are
Definitely. Paso Desolación Trail (12 km), Rincón del Osorno Trail (5 km), the Solitary Trail (6 km), and the Margarita Lagoon Trail (8 km), just to name a few.
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Will I have any problems with drinking water or food?
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Are there any good day hikes in the area?
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The lake is Llanquihue, and it is pronounced as “Yawn-key-way.”
That is Osorno (2,661m). There are three more volcanoes, all located within Vicente Perez Rosales National Park: Puntiagudo Volcano (2,490m), Picada (1,710m), and the big daddy of them all, Tronador (3,491m).
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How do you pronounce the name of the lake?
Incredible, with abundant opportunities, from lakes to rivers and streams, all teeming with various species of trout, including Chilean trout and two introduced species: rainbow trout and brown trout.
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In spring or summer, bring along some light clothing for good weather, but be sure to have a wool sweater and rain parka for the inevitable rain that this area is famous for. In winter, bring everything you have for cold and windy weather.
How is the fishing in this area?
What do you call the enormous volcano on the other side of the lake?
Los Tiloa
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How should I dress for the climate?
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There are a handful of hostels near the center of town and you’ll find boarding houses within walking distance of the center, offering options such as matrimonial rooms and rooms for groups of up to five people.
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Where can I stay without breaking the bank?
There are some hopping little bars packed with people from all over the world all summer and during the height of the ski season. Not to mention, the casino where you will have a chance to part with all your travel money, or if you’re lucky, win enough to pay for the whole trip.
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If you choose to fly, you’ll need to fly into Puerto Montt and then take a bus from the airport into the city. From here, you’ll grab a bus to Puerto Varas. Buses leave for PV every hour. From Puerto Natales, you can take the Navimag ship to Puerto Montt, cruising through the fjords, north for five days. The most economical option on Navimag is a shared cabin, which will cost you about $400 USD. In Puerto Montt, you’ll catch one of the buses to Puerto Varas.
What’s the nightlife like?
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How do I get to Puerto Varas?
Puerto Varas
not used to eating a lot of seafood or shellfish, take it easy for the first few days.
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iews. Or take the local bus to Frutillar, 30 km away, and visit the Teatro del Lago, which houses art exhibits and, in summer, live concerts and theater. Stop by one of the local guide services for info on trekking in Cóchamo Valley, (nicknamed Little Yosemite). Rent a bike and explore the area for an afternoon. Visit Vicente Perez Rosales NP, and check out the waterfalls.At the end of your days, relax and watch the sunset, while eating dinner or sipping a drink at one of the several lakeside restaurants or bars.
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questions & answers
Easily reached from Puerto Montt by local bus or taxi, Puerto Varas was founded by German settlers in the 1800s. This influence can be seen in everything from the German Club in the center, the town’s architecture, and the ubiquitous kuchen. Many locals speak German as a second language. The tourist center (on Lake Llanquihue near the plaza) is open year round, and can give advice on a range of activities, from horseback riding or guided climbs or ski trips up Osorno to whitewater rafting or kayaking. Consider a hike up Cerro Philippi, and enjoy the
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POPULATION: 22,500 FOUNDED: 1854 WHAT’S GROOVY: Hiking & Climbing in Cóchamo Valley JUST IN CASE: 131 (ambulance), 132 (fire), 133 (police)
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Is it easy to change foreign currency?
Can I take a tour by boat?
Yes, most banks will change dollars and/or euros and there are many exchange shops called “cambios” where you can change your foreign currency.
Sure, you can visit an island nature preserve in the area of Caleta de Angelmo. Just ask around near the Navimag dock for times and prices.
Can I use my travelers checks or ATM card?
You’ll find a variety of restaurants in the area of Caleta de Angelmo with great seafood selections at reasonable prices.
You bet. Travelers checks are a good way to go and can be cashed at all the banks. ATM cards are another option, since most banks have a machine on the Cirrus network and make the currency exchange for you automatically. What times of the day are the shops and restaurants open? Most shops are open Monday-Friday from 09:00 to 13:30 and then close for lunch until about 15:00, and then remain open again until around 19:00. Saturdays, from 09:00 to 13:00. Banks are open Monday-Friday, 09:00 to 14:00.
Where can I get the best seafood?
Is it customary to tip? In Chile, in general, it is customary to tip 10% of the total of the bill at restaurants. When using a taxi it is okay to leave the small change. What about calling abroad or home?
Is Puerto Montt safe?
Where can I buy handicrafts?
There are call centers throughout the city where they have internet and the city has a public phone network that enables you to make local and international phone calls with coins and special phone cards. Also, most hotels, for a surcharge, will let you make international calls.
For the most part, Pto. Montt is a quiet city with few incidents of urban violence, but be smart and leave the bling-bling at home and use the buddy system when heading out to enjoy the night life.
About 2 km. from the city center, you will find Caleta de Angelmo, home to a variety of handmade items, including wool sweaters, alpaca clothing, and leather items.
Who do I contact in case of an emergency? You can find the police station at Guillermo Gallardo 519, or dial 133. To call an ambulance, dial 131.
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Photos and text by Ernesto Palm Del Curto
En bicicleta por Castro y Parque Nacional Chiloé Chiloé es uno de los lugares más interesantes para visitar en la Región de Los Lagos, por sus bellos paisajes, coloridas y pintorescas ciudades, y especialmente por la fuerza y singularidad de su cultura, única por el carácter de isla, que de alguna manera la mantiene alejada de influencias foráneas. En esta ocasión, la recomendación es visitar la Isla en bicicleta y recorrer Castro, una de las ciudades más antiguas de Chile, y el Parque Nacional Chiloé, ubicado en el sector de Cucao, a 60 kilómetros de la ciudad, en la costa abierta hacia el Océano Pacífico. El viaje que relatamos acá tiene una duración de 3 días, y comienza en Puerto Varas, punto de partida y organización de todas las actividades interesantes de la región. En la mañana del primer día, cargamos las bicicletas en nuestro transporte, y nos vamos directo a Castro, para evitar pedalear en la primera parte del camino, que tiene bastante tráfico, camiones principalmente. Una vez en la isla, luego de cruzar el canal de Chacao en un ferry de 45 minutos de duración, la opción es ir a Castro y recorrer en las bicicletas los mejores lugares de la ciudad, como los mercados, museos, palafitos, su iglesia y disfrutar de los sabores de la isla en alguna de las cocinerías del lugar. Para el alojamiento, la recomendación es el nuevo Hostal Palafito, ubicado en la zona de
Gamboa. Funciona en un palafito tradicional, el cual fue restaurado y adecuado para recibir gente, lo que representa una experiencia inolvidable, ya que se recrea y se vive una costumbre ancestral de este lugar. Excelente vista de la bahía. Para el día siguiente, nos subimos a la bicicleta temprano en la mañana y tomamos dirección sur por la ruta 5. A la salida de Castro, se puede visitar la iglesia de Nercón. A los 20 kilómetros y a la altura del pueblo de Chonchi, está el desvío hacia Cucao y el Océano Pacífico. En el camino, los lagos Hullinco y Cucao entregan un paisaje de ensueño. Luego de 38 kilómetros, llegamos a la entrada al Parque Nacional, ubicada junto al mar. La majestuosidad del lugar nos invita a quedarnos, y la opción para pasar la noche es el Parador Darwin, con un excelente servicio y una cocina para no olvidar. También hay opción de camping en los sectores del Parque Chanquin y ColeCole. Para la mañana del tercer y último día de este viaje, visitamos los principales senderos y playas del Parque, las que aun mantienen la imagen del Chiloé profundo, con bosques antiguos, gran cantidad de avifauna y la cultura chilota siempre presente en cada detalle. Si el tiempo lo permite, está la posibilidad de visitar la comunidad indígena de Quilque, ubicada en este sector y a la que podemos acceder previa consulta con los loncos o jefes de
la comunidad. En este lugar se puede realizar una caminata por una ruta completamente nueva del Parque, a la que llegamos luego de cruzar el Lago Cucao. Finalmente y luego de disfrutar los últimos momentos en el Parque Nacional, está la opción de regresar a Puerto Varas ese mismo día, o si prefieres puedes continuar en Chiloé y seguir conociendo los secretos y mitos de la Isla. FIND MORE THAN A GOOD HOSTEL!
Great location - tips & travel info Airport Service – Internet WI-FI - Kitchen Facilities
Don´t forget to book in advance ! * highly recommended during High Season * Phone/fax: 65-232044 Mobile: (9)-76486787 info@compassdelsur.cl www.compassdelsur.cl Klenner 467 Puerto Varas – Lake District
Santiago
Ristorante Italiano
Italian cuisine at the bottom of the world. www.andeshostel.com (56-2) 632 9990 - 632 9173
Puerto Montt, Chile Calle Rengifo 815 • (65) 282812 Puerto Varas, Chile Av. Costanera, Puerto Chico • (65) 310583
www.dalessandro.cl
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Cave paintings near Puerto Natales Etno Natural Park
The new Patagonian Etnonatural Park recently opened to the public. Its main attraction is the sculptural representation of the indigenous Magellan people set against beautiful natural scenes. The trail through the park takes around 30 to 45 minutes and consists of nine displays in which you can see depictions of the first inhabitants of these lands: The Kaweskar, Yamanas, Aonikenk and Selknam. In additon, there is a small cave inside the park, which was once used as a refuge by hunters. On its walls you can see cave paintings of simple shapes but with great symbolic meaning and power. Many of these are geometrical outlines, animal tracks, human hands, lines, anthropomorphic and animal figures. Along the path, you can feel the secrets of the spirits in the air, and among the ancient trees of the wooded areas images of the steppe hunters of Tierra del Fuego come to mind, nomadic people and the austral rivers. The Etnonatural Park is outside of Puerto Natales near the Milodon cave at Km 23. The park is open everyday during the week and costs $3.000 per person.
Sought after Isla Navarino info by Marieke den Nijs
Finding tourist information on Chile’s most Southern town, Puerto Williams, is not an easy job. Especially information on the Internet is scarce.This is a pity, since Puerto Williams and its surroundings have much to offer for nature-loving tourists. Enviu, a Chilean/Dutch NGO, has currently been working on improving the information supply. Through a project directed toward local entrepreneurs in the tourism sector, Enviu has facilitated the creation
of various web sites. During a two-month period Enviu carried out practical workshops, in which the entrepreneurs learned how to make and maintain a website. The result of this project is that recently, in addition to the websites that yet existed, four new websites have been put online. If interested, check out these new web sites and learn more about the various tourism services available in Puerto Williams... • www.turismoshila.com - guiding & tours • www.refugioelpadrino.com - Accomodation • www.hostalpusaki.com - Accomodation • www.albatrospub.com - Food For more information on the work of Enviu, visit www.enviu.org.
What Patagonia Tastes Like By Sandra Pendelin
Traveling trough Patagonia often includes strong winds, rain, and frosty temperatures. But there is something to warm and comfort you. Good cazuela soup. Chileans love this meal, which belongs to their cocina criolla (tradicional cuisine). It’s a perfect combination of rice, potatoes, seasonal vegetables, including pumkin, corn, and carrots as well as big chunks of meat, like chicken or hen. Cazuela has its origin in a typical Spanish meal, the olla podrida. It was first served on Chilean territory in 1826 to the Spanish admiral Blanco Encalada. Other typical Chilean main dishes include pastel de choclo (corn pie with mincemeat, chicken, and egg), empanadas (with mincemeat, cheese, or seafood pies), charcicán (a Chilean stew of mincemeat and vegetables), and humitas con ensalada chilena (flavored mashed corn served in its own leaf with a tomato-onion salad). To sate the sweet tooth, there are also very lovely desserts, such as mote con huesillos (sweet, canned peaches with wheat) or semola con salsa de vino tinto (semolina stewed in a red wine sauce). ¡Provecho!
The view of Los Cuernos from the view point, above Campamento Italiano. Painting by Julieta Canepa
Puma Lottery by Marjan Alkema
There are people that have spent years working in the park and never saw a puma. But then there are also those day trippers who take a strolls on Lago Grey’s beach, and suddenly come eye to eye with a puma. But what to do if you actually get to see a puma? 1. Most important, don’t run! The puma might think you’re a juicy (and easy to catch) boxed lunch to go. With a puma, the slogan “act like a victim, become a victim,” holds true. 2. Make yourself look bigger and more dangerous than the puma in front of you. The puma will leave if it’s not sure it’s going to win. One small, even non-lethal wound to a puma may inhibit its ability to hunt properly. Make a lot of noise, too. Use jackets or bags (or whatever else you may think of at this moment) to hold over your head for appearance’s sake. 3. And last of all, but not least important… smile. (This may be difficult depending on your proximity to the puma.) Take a moment to realize how lucky you really are for winning the lottery.
Torres del Paine spotlight Free campsite Italiano Campamento Italiano got its name long ago from an Italian climbing expedition to climb the Cuernos. In 1980, after being only a climber’s campsite for years, Italiano became an official free CONAF campsite. In 2002 the first park rangers where stationed there, mostly to prevent backpackers from starting forest fires. They guarded the area, but without facilities, they lived in tents. In 2004, they built a guard hut there; all materials arrived carried by humans. The number of people spending the night at Italiano has been growing ever since. In high season, you’ll find up to 100 tents per night. Using this campsite is a great way to visit Valle del Frances with fewer time constraints. Waking up in the morning in Italiano provides ample time to see the Valley and move on to your next camp before sunset. For a long time the only facilities in Italiano are restrooms. The campsite is situated in a Lenga beech tree forest, offering trekkers protection from wind and rain. Valle del Frances tends to attract bad weather. The disagreeable weather along with the growing number of people staying at Italiano has put a new project in motion. Most recently, they’ve built a hut to protect campers while cooking and relaxing, in out of the storm.