by Stuar t M. Williams
“Feel to the end the triumph of being alive!” spoken by the Squire in Ingmar Bergman’s film, The Seventh Seal
“My heart in hiding Stirred for a bird, —the achieve of, the mastery of the thing!” Gerard Manley Hopkins, The Windhover, 1877
“to improve the golden moment of opportunity and catch the good that is within our reach is the great art of life.” Dr. Samuel Johnson, mid-18th century
3
text & PhotograPhy:
Stuart WilliaMS ProduCtion & edition:
John John reynal & Juan PaBlo reynal
graPhiC deSign:
Patagonia PuBliShing Co. MaP deSign:
Maria eugenia nager 6
Photo touCh-uPS:
Flavio de Mitri Pre-PreSS:
arteS graFiCaS integradaS S.a.
BoB Kerr’S deCoyS:
CourteSy oF the ruSSell FinK gallery argentine handCraFtS:
CourteSy oF arandú
CoPyright © PiCtureS and text - Stuart WilliaMS CoPyright © PiCtureS, PaintingS & MaPS Patagonia PuBliShing CoMPany S.a. TIScornIa 154 P.B. “B”, (8400) BarIlocHe, rIo neGro, arGenTIna
interior Cover Photo: Skip “The Hawg” Hoagland gets set for the moment of truth on a foggy morning at Hasparren Lodge.
Queda HecHo el dePoSITo Que Marca la ley 11.723 ISBn: 987-987-21511-3-3
Index uruguay
8
eStanCia haSParren
12
eStanCia ninette
24
argentina
36
the ProvinCe oF San luiS
40
Feather hunting argentina
42
the ProvinCe oF CordoBa
54
PiCa Zuro lodge
56
la dorMida lodge
68
eStanCia la Catalina
80
eStanCia arroyo loS leoneS
92
the ProvinCe oF BuenoS aireS
104
eStanCia San MartĂn
106
eStanCia la leoCadia
118
eStanCia aMeghino
130
JaCana lodge
142
eStanCia la Zita
154
the ProvinCe oF la PaMPa
166
eStanCia la Colorada
168
the ProvinCe oF ChuBut
180
toMMy WenCKheiM SaFariS & adventureS
182
BooKingS
194
travel
196
aCKnoWledgeMentS
199
PhotograPhiC CreditS
202
7
Uruguay Uruguay is the smallest country in South
The primary game bird of interest to visiting
offers other breeds as well, has some dogs that can
America. It is tucked in between Brazil to the north
shooters is, of course, the common perdiz.
compete in acuity of nose, style, and discipline with
and Argentina to the south and west. It is seldom in
Although there are perdiz in Argentina, Uruguay is a
the best dogs in the United States and Europe.
the news; stable, democratic countries rarely are.
better choice for the shooter who is really serious
Most of the top perdiz outfitters in Uruguay have
Uruguay is essentially a large, fertile, grassy
about hunting perdiz. The birds are more numerous
some dogs bred and trained by Luigi Olivieri. It is
plain. There is some grain-and seed-growing agri-
in Uruguay, and outfitters there have cultivated the
pure delight to hunt over Luigi Olivieri’s dogs.
culture, but it is not so well developed as in
art of perdiz shooting much more so than outfitters
The season for perdiz runs May—July.
Argentina. For that reason doves are not so abun-
in Argentina, perhaps because they have much
A shoot in Uruguay can easily be added on
dant as in Argentina. The primary economic activi-
lower populations of doves and ducks and pigeons
to an Argentine shooting trip. There are frequent
ty is cattle grazing.
and no geese at all. Moreover, the quality of dog-
flights from Buenos Aires to Montevideo and
There are extensive wetlands in the eastern
work in Uruguay is much superior to that in
Punta del Este, and frequent crossings of the
part of the country that offer some excellent
Argentina. Luigi Olivieri, a dog breeder and trainer
River Plate by the Buquebus (hydrofoil) to Colonia,
duck shooting.
extraordinaire who specializes in setters, but who
a very attractive tourist town which is the gateway
A hardworking birdboy fetches downed ducks after a great shoot on a beautiful
to perdiz-shooting estancias in western Uruguay. A trip on the Buquebus on a beautiful sunny day is pure pleasure. Gun entry is a simple formality, but it is much more expensive than in Argentina. In The Purple Land, W. H. Hudson’s great novel about 19th century Uruguay, (which was called the Banda Oriental back in those days), he has given us a brilliant description of the land: “I see before me one of the fairest habitations God has made for man: great plains smiling with everlasting spring; ancient woods; swift beautiful rivers; ranges of blue hills stretching 10
away to the dim horizon. And beyond those fair slopes, how many leagues of pleasant wilderness are sleeping in the fair sunshine, where the wild flowers waste their sweetness and no plough turns the fruitful soil, where deer and ostrich roam fearless of the hunter, while over all bends a blue sky without a cloud to stain its exquisite beauty?” Although these words were written in the last quarter of the 19th century, and many things have changed since then, the description is still by and large accurate. Very colorful fruit and vegetable stands like this one decorate the highways of southern Uruguay.
A master chef grills meat at one of the many fine restaurants in El Mercado del Puerto, an old train station in Montevideo converted to accommodate many restaurants and shops, and an indispensable stop for tourists.
Gauchos are not restricted to Argentina. This Uruguayan gaucho does his thing on a beautiful morning near a duck marsh.
Braided knife (Facón)
Estancia H asparren
12
Nike, an elegant English setter, trembled from tip of nose to tip of
Finally Nike located the scent again and locked up as hard as if
tail, as if ten thousand volts of electricity were coursing through her body.
her body had been deep frozen. Dabi spoke to her, and she moved for-
Then she lay down. Dabi, the doghandler/guide,
ward quickly, going to the left for about ten yards,
eased up behind her and tapped her on the rump,
then back to the right for about ten yards. Then
and she got up and started to creep forward. She
she stopped. This zigzag pursuit continued for
snuffled up the breeze like a vacuum cleaner, get-
about five minutes. The suspense built up.
ting her lungs full of bird scent, and again crept
Dabi urged: “Move forward! Put pressure
forward ever so cautiously, pointing and readjusting
on the bird! Make it fly!” The Hawg took ten
her point as she went. She was the very essence of
quick paces forward, a small brown bird—tired of
style and discipline. Then she got a stronger current
the pressure—launched itself into air well to the
of bird scent and moved forward more rapidly.
right with a startling sound, the Hawg mounted
Gun at the ready, Sr. Hawg—otherwise
his gun and sent out a peremptory summons to
known as Skip Hogland—stayed close to the dog.
desist from flight immediately, and the small
Then the dog lost the scent and doubled back and
brown bird dropped softly on to the grass. Nike
made a complete circle in an effort to find it again.
bounded across the field to fetch.
Dabi said: “The bird’s running. Be ready for it to get up almost anywhere!”
We had not gone 50 yards when Nike once again lied down to make game. Dabi spoke to her softly and she got up and crept forward.
Exterior view of Hasparren Lodge. Note that it is constructed entirely of stone except for thatch.
work of it. Nike never got more than 75 yards away at any time and never busted a single bird. It was as fine dog work as I hope to see in this world or the next. What’s more, the Hawg and I didn’t miss a single bird. We had our limit in about an hour and a half. We were hunting perdiz out of the renowned Estancia Hasparren in Uruguay. In twenty years Hasparren, under the able management of Bernardo and Mercedes Barran, has established a reputation as one of the very finest bird-shooting resorts in Uruguay. Then it was back to the lodge for one of those sumptuous repasts that Hasparren is famed for. We started with excellent nachos of dove breasts with hot
14
A very large, comfortable bedroom in Hasparren Lodge.
sauce wrapped in tortillas; tender and succulent bife de
Then she moved forward quickly about 15 yards,
It was one of those days when conditions
lomo (tenderloin) with chimichurri sauce; and excellent
locked up, and then moved forward again quickly.
were just about perfect. A miasma of dense fog
strawberry mousse for dessert, with a very good San
Dabi urged me to stay close behind the dog
covered the land and a thick coating of dew cov-
Juan cabernet, and cafecitos to finish up.
because evidently the bird was running and could
ered the grass. We were hunting into a breeze of
There was no time for a siesta. We set forth
get up at any moment. Then the bird rose quickly
just about five miles per hour, in clover and grass
immediately for a dove shoot. My brother, T.
about 25 yards out in front, veered sharply to the
about five inches high, and a temperature of about
Clendenning Williams IV, a prominent Wall Street
left, staying down low where its perfect camouflage
60 degrees. Things could not have been better.
banker known hereinafter simply as Tom, joined
made it diabolically difficult to see and to hit. I
Nike made game about every three minutes,
me on that occasion. We shot at a large roost of
overtook it and swung well ahead and hit the bird
lying down, then rising on command, locking on to
big willow and thorn trees and low scrub trees
solidly. A little cloud of brown feathers erupted
the scent, pursuing it insistently, sometimes losing it
along a river. Doves swarmed all around us like
and the bird fell in a gradual slant and Nike was on
but always regaining it, a model of style and discipline
bees, coming from every point of the compass,
it quickly. It quickly returned to Dabi and sat and
at all times, putting pressure on the bird at all times,
darting in and out among the trees, providing only
offered him the bird.
finally pushing it into air, where the guns made quick
an instant in which to shoot. This was supremely
challenging shooting, even though most of the
when we might get to hunt over Peter Breughel the
descending at the same time—a very tricky shot.
shots were at a range of only 15—25 yards. Once
Elder or Hieronymus Bosch or Vassily Kandinsky.
My shot puffed a little cloud of brown feathers
we accommodated ourselves to the circumstances
Some of his dogs were from the kennels of
from the bird and ended its brief tenure on earth.
we shot very well. Each of us fired ten boxes of
the renowned dog breeder and trainer, Luigi Olivieri.
Again Dali made game, Bernardo moved in
The blaze orange clothing of Tom and
and touched her on the rump, she pressed forward,
shells in little over an hour. It was a beautiful afternoon, with a deep
Bernardo glowed in the gloom.
following the vagaries of scent upon the breeze, until
azure sky full of lacy filigree clouds. Nameless wild
Dali made game almost immediately. Tom
once again the bird burst into air with an explosive
flowers filled the air with an inebriating perfume.
and I closed in for the moment of truth, he pushed
take-off. This bird too flew straight up and back over
The afternoon was full of the joy of life. It was one
the bird hard, and it erupted into the air, where he
my head and I whirled 180 degrees and intercepted
of those moments—and there have been many of
put it down with finality. On the next flush the bird
it just as it was about to make good its escape.
them on those great shoots in Argentina and
got up only 15 yards in front of me, flew straight
Dali made game again. She moved out on
Uruguay—when, in the words of Shakespeare, “I
up and then back over my head. I whirled, and
Bernardo’s command, and as she moved ahead
scorn to change my state with kings.”
addressed a bird that was rapidly departing and
she pointed and then pointed again and again, 15
The next morning Tom and I hunted perdiz with the Maximum Guide/Dog Trainer himself, Bernardo Barran. Once again, conditions were virtually ideal: a blanket of fog that covered the landscape near and far; a heavy coating of dew on the grass, a breeze of 8—10 miles per hour, and temperatures of about 50 F. Bernardo put down a setter called Dali. He explained that most of his dogs are named after famous painters. There is a Degas, a Van Gogh, a Monet, and a Manet, among others. He said that Monet and Manet were similar, and most people could not distinguish between them. I said that most people could not distinguish between the painters by the same names either. I wondered
Shooters love to gather around the fireplace in the social room for aperitivos and drinks during Happy Hour after a long, cold day afield.
constantly readjusting her point, keeping a low profile so as not to alarm the bird, until at last the bird could tolerate the pressure no more and it would launch itself into air, and the guns would roar and a soft brown bird would tumble lifelessly unto the grass. This scenario played itself out over and over, until at last we attained our limits. We hunted in tall grass and weeds that quickly soaked our pants up to the knees, and cover so low that one might think it could hardly conceal a
This photo shows the thatch roof of Hasparren and the rack on which are hung the birds killed during the day.
mouse, yet it concealed those small brown birds
16
emphatic “whomp!” It was a very pleasant outing.
perfectly. Unlike pheasants and quail, the perdiz
nice cabernet. The Hawg and Tom and Don Marazzo,
does not rely on dense cover for protection; it
a newly arrived shooter from California, and I got our
Back at Hasparren, we gathered around the
relies totally on its perfect camouflage. Being a
grubhooks to work and hardly spoke for the next
fireplace, the center of social activity. On an open grill
running bird, the perdiz prefers low, thin cover;
twenty minutes. We finished with a nice apple tart.
in the fireplace a chef cooked chorizo (beef sausage),
thick cover impedes its movement.
Then it was once more into the breech.
chinchulines (chitlins), and provoleta grillada (grilled pro-
Then we moved to another field for one of
The Hawg and I made one party and Tom
volone cheese with olive oil and oregano—a food fit
those al fresco culinary ceremonies that Hasparren
and Don another party for a combination decoyed
for the gods!!)—and served them on big round
is known for near and far, namely, an asado. By that
pigeon/decoyed duck shoot. The Hawg and I shot
wooden platters. Then we moved to the dining room
time the sun had come out and it was a glorious
out of blinds set up about 50 yards apart along the
for big chunks of cuadril (rump steak); morcilla (blood
day. When we arrived a table was already set and a
edge of a pond. Birdboys put out pigeon decoys on
sausage); baked potatoes; and a salad of lettuce,
huge grill was laden with meat: bife de lomo, bife de
the land and duck decoys on the water. The Hawg
tomatoes, and hard-boiled eggs with olive oil and bal-
chorizo, chorizo (beef sausage), and morcilla (blood
set up two wind-activated duck decoys along the
samic vinegar, and for dessert, terrific panqueques con
sausage)—and the air was filled with aromas that
shore, and we were in business. Pigeons came in fit-
dulce de leche, being crepes with caramel custard. This
would bring the dead to life.
fully at first, then with increasing frequency, and
candlelit dinner was the peak of our wonderful din-
Uniformed waitresses served a fine salad of
occasionally a duck would come in. The pigeons
ing experience at Hasparren. Mercedes and her staff
shredded carrots and purple cabbage with ranch dress-
came loafing into the decoys and we laced the lead
exceeded all their previous efforts.
ing; pickled beets; and grilled potatoes. They decanted a
to them and their bodies hit the ground with an
Unlike the other shooting establishments in
this book, Hasparren is not a lodge but a private
masters (no Manets or Monets) long dead and
home. Bernardo likes to call it “a high-class hotel,”
turned to clay. There are also mounted trophy
and that is exactly what it is. It was built of all-
heads on the walls and cowhides on the floors.
frontiers
natural materials—stones taken from an old cor-
Five comfortable bedrooms accommodate eight
hank inGram
ral to make the walls, thatch to make the roof, and
guests. Hasparren makes me think of the title of
toll-free: 1-800-245-1950
logs to make the roof beams. The place just oozes
that fascinating book by Alain de Botton, The
www.frontierstravel.com
rustic atmosphere. There is a big dining/social
Architecture of Happiness.
Get further information and bookinGs from:
david denies winGshootinG
room with a fireplace at one end, the walls of
Surrounding the house is a veritable inter-
which are adorned with antique collectibles and
national arboretum of glorious trees planted
gaucho paraphernalia and paintings by forgotten
long ago: cypress, Canadian pine, ash, hickory,
tel.: +54 (11) 4331-0444
chinaberry, jacaranda, cedar, palm, eucalyptus, acacia,
fax: +54 (11) 4331-7397
and many others.
main office - arGentina santiaGo seeber
santiaGo@daviddenies.com
A big part of the appeal of Hasparren is us office
the fact that it is lived in every day. Thus it has a kind of homey warmth and charm, which are
douG larsen toll-free: 1-877-637-8420
lacking in commercial shooting lodges. It’s the
tel.: (412) 741-6718
kind of place that makes you want to return
fax: (412) 741-6718
again and again.
douGlas@daviddenies.com
Happy days at Hasparren! uk office
(Recently Hasparren has become an official David Denies Wingshooting Lodge. Under the careful supervision of David Denies and Fernando de las Carreras standards have been raised and will
nick Zoll tel.: 44-0-1485-512046 fax: 44-0-1485-512131 nick@daviddenies.com
continue to be raised.) shooters reach hasparren by flyinG to Skip "The Hawg" Hoagland in an affectionate moment with one of Hasparrens prized setters after a fine morning shoot.
montevideo, where they are met and driven about
3 1/2 hours to the home.
17
Tom Williams(l.) and Bernardo Barran close in on a perdiz behind one of Bernardo’s stately setters.
18
Tom Williams(l.) and Bernardo Barran congratulate each other after a very fulfilling day afield.
Dali, a beautifully trained setter, offers a bird up to his handler. Note: Most dogs at Hasparren are nam
Hot›barrelled dove shooting action over the plains of U
Tom Williams fetches down a high bird with his Browning Superposed.
21
Tom Williams is all ready for action on doves on a beautiful afternoon.
Blue-Winged Teal
22
A birdboy arranges pigeon decoys preparatory to an afternoon shoot.
Skip "The Hawg" Hoagland is ready for both pigeons and ducks in his camouflage net blind. Note decoys for both species.
23
This is the stuff that pigeon shooters dreams are made of; all on a magnificent day! What could be finer?
A rgentina I have lost count of the number of trips I
makes hungry/ Where most she satisfies.” In
What is it that is so addictive about Argentina
have made to Argentina, but it is probably fifty-
other words, the more you get of it the more you
wingshooting? Essentially, it’s the shooting of large
seven or fifty-eight. Sometimes my liberal
want. Too much is never enough. It is as addic-
numbers of very challenging wild birds under the
friends—all two of them—who have never been
tive as crack cocaine. I used to make just one trip
most posh circumstances, amid the camaraderie of
to Argentina, much less shot a bird there or any-
a year to Argentina, then I stepped up to two,
kindred souls, surrounded by attentive factotums
where else, ask me: “Don’t you ever get tired of
and currently I make three trips a year. I just
and pampered like a congressman, far from family
all that killing, of eating all that steak and drink-
can’t stay away very long. I’ve got to have my
or business pressures, in a benign climate, where
ing all that red wine and going to all those tango
three-times-a-year fix. And I’ve got plenty of
everything, right down to the minutiae, is organized
shows and buying all those leather jackets?” To
company. I have friends that go two or three
for the pleasure of the visiting shooters. What’s
which I reply: “Why, no. Bird shooting in
times every year, and some of them stay a month
more, as more outfitters get into the wingshooting
Argentina is like Cleopatra the way Shakespeare
or more each time! Argentina is the number one
business, the competition gets more intense and
described her in Antony and Cleopatra: “…other
wingshooting country in the world. No other
outfitting standards go up. I can see definite
women cloy/ The appetites they feed, but she
country even comes close.
improvement every year.
Lordly Magellan geese winging over a beautiful Andean valley near Trevelin, Chubut.
All birdshooting trips begin and end in Buenos Aires. Buenos Aires is a city of broad boulevards and
open-air parrillas (grills) fills the air and makes your
and shop for great bargains in leathers and listen to
salivary glands seize up in paroxysms.
Andean musicians playing ethereal flute music and
endless parks, of Parisian charm and intense cultural
For something different, how about a world-
singing melancholy huaynos and vidalas. You can
activity. On any given night you might be able to
class meal at Piegari or Sorrento or Mumbai or
soak up the sun like an old tomcat at a sidewalk
enjoy a great performance of Don Giovanni or La
Oviedo? Or how about a show at Señor Tango,
cafe under the vast rubber trees at Plaza Recoleta.
Boheme or Il Barbiere di Siviglia at Teatro Colon, one
where you can hear Fernando Soler sing about
I have always said that sidewalk cafes are the hall-
of the world’s great opera houses. Afterwards you can
those dark themes of tango music—lost home-
mark of an advanced civilization, and Buenos
have dinner at one of the world’s great steakhouses,
lands, cruel girlfriends, and suicide?
Aires has plenty of them. Dolce far niente.
such as Cabaña Las Lilas. Buenos Aires, of course, is
You can walk and explore endlessly in
where the beef is, and it’s where the souls of steak
atmospheric little holes-in-the-wall for antique
lovers go when they die. Walk along the River Plate at
maps or chess sets or silverware or Cuban cigars.
midday, and the heavenly aroma from dozens of
You can stroll along Florida pedestrian concourse
In Shakespeare’s King Henry IV, part II, Pistol says: “I speak of Africa and golden joys.” As for me, I speak of Argentina and golden joys.
38
The lively al fresco Cafe La Biela in Recoleta is a favorite hangout for Porteños and tourists alike.
Appealing handicrafts shops like this one entice visitors in Merlo, San Luis.
High›shock colors of houses and buildings in La Boca district of Buenos Aires make it a must›see for all tourists.
L a Dormida Lodge The first time you arrive at La Dormida you will be taken completely by surprise. That is because the place has nothing rustic or hunting-related about it. It sits there in the mid68
dle of the Cordoba brushland, totally improba-
Silver gourd mate
and stained a dark rose color, and the massive table in front of the great walk-in fireplace is made of pine. The external walls are painted a deep magenta and the bare interior walls are white.
ble, looking like something off the cover of
At the center of the courtyard is a fire pit sur-
Architectural Digest. The location was chosen
rounded by big wooden chairs. On cool evenings
not for aesthetic reasons but for strategic rea-
shooters sit by the fireside and tell shameless lies
sons, i.e., to put the lodge within proximity of
about all the great shots they made and how many
many excellent shooting fields.
birds they killed during the day, and swill cold
It is a study in contrast between rough sur-
drinks and gourmandize aperitivos, or appetizers.
faces and smooth surfaces: locally quarried granite,
Near the fire pit is a heated Roman bath, where
on the one hand, which is used to make the walls of
sybarites and voluptuaries may wallow to drive the
the quadrangular courtyard and the huge fireplace,
chill out of their bones after a cold day afield.
and on the other hand, the smooth exterior and
There are six heated and air-conditioned
interior walls of the lodge; the huge, polished
rooms with beautiful four-poster beds, which can
wooden tables; and the wooden floors and bar in the large social/dining
sleep eight guests; a pro shop with shirts, caps, leather goods, and hand-
room. The dining room table and the bar are huge slabs of oak polished
icrafts; and a computer room. Masseuses are available in the evenings.
Evening at La Dormida is a very appealing time, when shooters gather around the fire fo drinks and aperitivos.
The lodge is the last word in comfort. It is
Swarms of doves came at me from in front
general helper, for a grand gastronomical adventure
expertly managed by Veronica Vidal, a long-time
and behind at the same time, going to the waterhole
called an asado, or luncheon al fresco, under a canvas
professional in the hospitality industry, who has
and the cornfield, coming in high and descending
dining pavilion. We started with excellent potato salad
worked for the Hilton and Sheraton chains in
swiftly. They came on relentlessly for two hours.
with onion bits; then a fine lettuce/ tomato/onion
Argentina, Mexico, and the United States. The
Some birds were screaming downwind, others were
salad; then shish-ka-bob of dove breasts smothered
affable Robin Benedict, who has developed many
struggling against the wind. The birds presented a
with chimichurri sauce; thick links of chorizo (beef
friendships among visiting dove shooters over the
great variety of shots: high overhead incomers, low
sausage); huge slabs of bife de lomo (tenderloin), juicy
last 25 years, sometimes hosts large groups.
left-to-right and right-to-left crossers, with many
and crammed with flavor; grilled chicken; plenty of
birds sneaking up on me from behind, and not an
Luigi Bosca malbec Reserva to wash down the sump-
easy bird in the bunch. I started out shooting cold
tuous viands; sliced pear in syrup; and cafecitos to finish
On my first morning I shot in a fence cor-
but by dint of fierce concentration was soon shoot-
up. We patted our bellies and agreed that the repast
ner, with a field of ripe corn behind me, a cattle
ing hot. I ended the morning with 368 for one case
would delight gourmets as well as gourmands.
watering pond to the left, and a pasture to the
(500 shells), as counted on a punch counter by
right. It was a delightfully cool, breezy, overcast
Federico, my very helpful birdboy.
I will tell you about some extraordinary days at La Dormida.
70
morning, the kind of morning that makes one feel glad to be alive.
In the afternoon I returned to the hot corner. The shooting was even more difficult than in
For lunch I joined two British shooters, Steve
the morning. I finished with 165 birds for 9 boxes
and Chris, and Jack Dartagnan, our driver/guide/
(225 rounds), which is below my usual average. Nevertheless I felt that my shooting had improved for the experience because I was forced to take shots that I would normally not have taken, i.e, at very high overhead birds and distant left-to-right crossers. Improvement of one’s shooting is to a great extent what a dove shoot in Cordoba is all about—isn’t it? Back to the lodge for a long, luxurious massage, then I joined Steve and Chris at the fire pit for aperitivos: sliced air-cured ham, salami, pastrami, big chunks of blue cheese and cheddar cheese, and The simply but elegantly furnished social/dining room.
71
La Dormida features architectural styling that is unique among Argentine hunting lodges.
thought: surely my cup runneth over.
little glasses of cold gazpacho andaluz—fantastic!! A
tomatoes with cream sauce; then a nice confection
duo of elderly gentlemen dressed in black, both
that combined layers of short ribs with layers of
The next morning we returned to the same
singer/guitarists, played and sang for us. They had
mashed potatoes; plenty of fine Humberto Canale
estancia where we had shot the day before. It was a
deep, resonant voices, and sang with great emo-
malbec; and for dessert, an exquisite tiramisu.
delectably cool day with gusting winds of 10—15
tional power. When they performed “Paisaje de
Then the elderly gentlemen came into the
mph. I shot out of a blind improvised of tall grass-
Catamarca” I was overcome with emotion. When
dining room. They performed “Humahuaqueño” and
es and brush near a field of ripe soybeans, where the
they performed “Pasa el Condor” I said to Steve and
“Viva Jujuy” and that great Paraguayan harp tune,
birds were swarming in to feed. The wind really
Chris: “This is a little slice of paradise!” and they
“Pajaro Campana.” These songs brought back pow-
complicated the flight of the birds, making them
said: “It surely is!”
erful memories. Next they played and sang two of
change direction or altitude in an instant, virtually
Then we migrated to the grand dining room,
those moving songs popularized by the great folk-
impossible to track with a shotgun. The birds were
where we feasted with genial host Robin Benedict,
loric group, Los Chalchaleros: “Sonada del Viejo
coming in from in front downwind and from behind
whose company is always a pleasure. We started
Amor” and “Lopez Pereyra.” It was an unforgettable
upwind, providing every conceivable angle and prob-
with a tasty salad of palmitos (hearts of palm) and
experience, no matter how long I may live. I
lem of shooting, making my gun barrel scribble in
Typical bedroom with two big four-poster beds and very comfortable mattresses and bare white walls.
Federico improvised a blind of tree branches and weeds, and birds that previously had flared away were now passing straight overhead, and the killing began in earnest. Birds were coming from in front and behind simultaneously. Often I would take a bird in front, and, hearing a shout of “Behind!” from Jack, would whirl and take one behind, or vice versa. I developed a rhythm of mounting and shooting and mounting and shooting and mounting and shooting, and had birds
72
the sky. I punched out many and many a spectacular
piece of farm machinery that is rusting in peace
crashing down in the trees immediately behind and
high overhead shot, and little mother-of-pearl feath-
under the trees. A bit farther away are fields of ripe
the soybeans farther back and the grassy meadow
ers exploded upon the wind, which snatched them
sorghum, soybeans, and corn. All that food and
in front. A spindrift of little white feathers eddied
far away in an instant. My final bird count for the
water serve as an enormous dove magnet. The
idly on the breeze all morning
morning: 328 birds with 18 boxes (450 rounds).
fences and gates are in a state of advanced neglect.
I used the usual black deathstick, namely, a
The next morning was as delightful a morn-
The whole scene has a kind of picturesque dilapi-
Benelli Super 90 20 gauge semi-auto with black
ing of dove shooting as I have ever enjoyed. I
dation. In other words, it is a quintessentially
stock, loaded with Fiocchi 25 gr. #8 shotshells.
shot 499 birds with 26 boxes (650 shells). (The
Argentine scene. Except for the piece of farm
The scene changes. It is four months later
numbers of birds I killed may seem like a lot but
machinery, it could have come straight from that
and I am back at La Dormida. This time I am
I assure you that they are very modest compared
great book about life in 19th-century Argentina,
shooting in the company of Albert Johnson, a gen-
to the numbers that some shooters have compiled
Far Away and Long Ago.
tleman from Miami who builds armored cars for
at La Dormida.)
I took refuge in the shade of a paraiso tree,
wealthy people with enemies.
Here was the setting for all that great action:
over which waves and waves of doves were sailing
It was a gray, windy morning, and doves
picture a small copse of algarrobo and paraiso (chin-
every 15—20 seconds. Inspired by the appreciative
swept over us 35—50 yards up in flocks of 10—100
aberry) trees, maybe two acres in size, that provide
audience and cheering squad of Jack and Federico,
or more, riding the winds and traveling to distant
merciful shade against the blowtorch sun. On one
who shouted and hallooed every time I made an
feeding fields. The shooting was very challenging
side is a cattle feeding lot, and adjacent to it a cat-
impressive shot, and assisted by Federico, who
but very satisfying. My birdboy Juan Carlos and
tle watering pond. There is an old broken-down
loaded my gun, I shot red hot from the start.
general helper Jack built a head-high blind of
thornbrush, an important requirement in places
then the absolute best tiramisu I ever tasted, with cor-
where the birds are shot over very hard, and where
tados (small cups of coffee) to finish up.
they can be very evasive.
Get further information and bookinGs from:
The whole experience was truly luxury in the
The highlight of the morning was three con-
wilderness, as much as the finest African tented
frontiers
secutive one-shot doubles followed by three con-
safari. We feasted in total comfort in dense thorn
hank inGram
secutive two-shot doubles and another one-shot
brush in land that has absolutely no utility except
toll-free: 1-800-245-1950
double. I decided that things could not get any bet-
for dove shooting.
ter, so I called it quits for the morning. I finished with 321 birds for 16 boxes (400 rounds).
www.frontierstravel.com
There was no time for a siesta because duty called.
david denies winGshootinG
Albert and Jack and I retired to a large dining
The shooting was much tougher in the after-
tent that had been set up under big thorn trees out of
noon. The birds were some of the highest that I ever
santiaGo seeber
the heat of the sun. A table had been set up with a
saw. They were still heading off to far-away feeding
tel.: +54 (11) 4331-0444
white linen tablecloth and gleaming silverware. Boys
fields, and virtually all of them were over 50 yards
fax: +54 (11) 4331-7397
brought on a relay of courses: grilled dove breasts
high. Then they started flying in the reverse direc-
santiaGo@daviddenies.com
wrapped in bacon strips, seasoned with garlic; excel-
tion, going back to the roost, and they were lower,
lent multicolor salad; mighty fine grilled chicken; then
but still at the outer margin of gunning range. I got
us office
bife de lomo (tenderloin), tender and succulent and
the range on them and started making many spectac-
douG larsen
packed with flavor; thick chunks of chorizo (beef
ular shots. Jack and Juan Carlos cheered me on. I
toll-free: 1-877-637-8420
sausage); couscous; plenty of La Linda malbec; and
shot and shot and shot some more, and bright yellow
tel.: (412) 741-6718
empties flew through the air and coruscated in the
fax: (412) 741-6718
late afternoon sun. I finished the afternoon with 233
douGlas@daviddenies.com
main office - arGentina
birds for 15 boxes (375 rounds). Ah, those wonderful days at La Dormida, how few and how fleeting!
nick Zoll
La Dormida has a good inventory of over-under and
tel.: 44-0-1485-512046
semi-automatic shotguns for shooters who do not wish to
fax: 44-0-1485-512131
bring their own guns. Dining scene shows Robin Benedict(r.) and Jack Dartagnan, a staff member, enjoying an excellent dining experience at La Dormida.
uk office
Season: year round.
nick@daviddenies.com
73
74
Red hot shooting action out of La Dormida.
Doves swarm like this over the brush of Cordoba every day.
This shooter is enjoying himself in spite of the rain.
La Dormida is justly famous for its great asados.
77
Asado scene shows Chris(at the back) and Steve, two shooters from England, and two La Dormida staff members.
78
Charlie Wingardh of Sweden is obviously having a very nice day of shooting.
This is the stuff that dove shooters dreams are made of.