The Basics of Pattern Grading for Apparel Items
Pattern grading, in layman's terms, is the process of increasing or reducing the pattern sizes from the master pattern utilising a size specification sheet or grading increments. When a designer or pattern master needs to create a pattern for a garment, they first create patterns for the base size - which could be the Medium size of the garment. Skilled clothing sample makers grasp the intricacies of a style and tailor the grade to meet the needs of the customer. The length and width measurements of different sizes of clothes differ from one another. As a result, different patterns of garment components must be cut to fit the bodies of different sizes. This issue is resolved via the grading procedure. There Are Three Basic Grading Methods: Method of cut-and-spread: The simplest way, which serves as the foundation for the
other two, is to cut the pattern and spread the pieces by a set amount to grade up, or overlap them to grade down. There is no need for any particular training or equipment—just scissors, a pencil, tape, and a ruler that breaks 1 inch down to 1/64. Shifting patterns: Pattern shifting is the act of increasing a pattern's overall dimensions by moving it a measured distance up and down and left and right (using a specially constructed ruler) and redrawing the outline to achieve the same outcomes as the cut-and-spread approach. Computer Grading: The most recent advancement, computer grading, is the quickest approach, although it is typically an expense that only larger enterprises can afford. However, advanced home computer software is becoming more inexpensive. Conclusion: It is critical to note that "grading patterns" merely make the shape larger or smaller and are not designed to affect the shape of the clothes. Grading also reflects the fact that people of different sizes have varying proportions. Source