A spotlight _ uptown
Up, up and away By Phoebe Collins
Take a spin around the lesserknown reaches of Manhattan’s Upper West Side Manhattan’s Upper West Side, between 79th and 110th streets, is often overlooked by New York visitors, but this charming enclave holds a host of restaurants, shops, theaters and other noteworthy attractions. People-watching from a bench in the middle of Broadway can provide as much entertainment as a show itself!
Founded in 1869, this historic museum boasts 46 spectacular exhibition halls, featuring everything from prehistoric journeys via Imax to guided outdoor ornithology walks. At the heart of the museum, the Rose Center for Earth and Space offers a transcendent experience in space travel, as visitors explore the universe A 236
©Paul Clemence
What do the films Manhattan, A Night at the Museum and the literary classic Catcher in the Rye have in common? Each features a pivotal scene in one of the world’s most famous institutions, the behemoth American Museum of Natural History on Central Park West and 79th Street. Take your cue from the majestic bronze effigy of Theodore Roosevelt gracing the massive front entrance. Astride his horse, the legendary TR comes alive as both hunter and explorer, inspiring all visitors to follow his lead. If the five-story, six-block Victorian Gothic architecture seems daunting, brace yourself with TR’s reminder that the “greatest doer must be the greatest dreamer” and cross the threshold into ancient and future worlds.
Top photo and above Zabar’s Left Cathedral of St. John the Divine
(while still on terra firma) via the Journey to the Stars space show. Lepidoptera lovers will find over 18,000 species in the Butterfly Conservatory. And it’s impossible to leave without a visit to the gift shop and its stunning array of books, apparel, media, gems and more. Hungry? As well as the Museum Food Court on the lower level, there are several other casual eateries throughout the vast premises. For something more substantial, try the Café on One for gourmet fare and a full wine menu. Outside, head west to bustling Columbus Avenue and Broadway. Shops and restaurants of all kinds await you, with a few that stand out amid the ever-changing streetscape. The famous Zabar’s is a deluxe food emporium. For over 70 years this epicurean outpost on West 80th Street and Broadway has seen the neighborhood change dramatically. Today, well-heeled locals think
nothing of stocking up on everything from caviar to capers – and everything in between, including a prodigious variety of coffee and tea, freshly baked bread, fruit, vegetables, smoked meats and more. Zabar’s is an experience unto itself, and it’s no surprise to see travelers in international airports with a Zabar’s shopping bag, carrying the same cachet as Fortnum & Mason or Fauchon. Should you choose to walk uptown about 12 blocks, don’t miss the whimsical, hidden street known as Pomander Walk. This enchanting little lane links West 94th and 95th streets was named for the 1910 Broadway hit, Pomander Walk. Over the years, the Tudoresque townhouses have winningly maintained their charm amid their towering neighbors. Head back to Broadway for the “big box” stores eradicating the old bodegas of yesteryear. Bargains await at Loehmans, TJ Maxx and the ubiquitous Sephora. But you’ll A 237
A spotlight _ uptown
Top left Ouest Right Pomander Walk Top right Silvery Moon Far right The Rose Center for Earth and Space at the American Museum of Natural History
Want something fancier? Gourmet restaurants remain scarce in this part of town, but don’t despair. Midway between 84th and 85th streets on Broadway awaits a treasure: Ouest. A funky yet elegant eatery featuring a traditional French American menu, Ouest, unlike its haughtier crosstown compatriots, is instantly recognizable by its delightfully retro sign, like something out of an Otto Preminger film noir, you almost expect to see Ida Lupino checking coats. The interior sports spherical cherry booths and dark wood, amid soothing background jazz. With menu standouts like seared tuna with chickpea purée and a tart tomato chive broth, Ouest is celebrated as a welcome addition to this end of Broadway. Finish your tour of the Upper West Side with an unfinished masterpiece on West 110th Street – the Cathedral of St. John the Divine. Construction continues on the world’s largest Gothic cathedral, which initially broke ground in 1892. Should you find yourself there in A 238
early October, don’t miss the annual St. Francis Festival for the Animals, featuring a procession of exotic beasts marching placidly up the main aisle. At other times of the year, the soaring building itself and outdoor biblical garden (where peacocks roam freely) provide precious moments of heavenly peace. Useful addresses American Museum of Natural History Central Park West at 79th St. Tel. 1.212.769.5100, www.amnh.org Cathedral of St. John the Divine 1047 Amsterdam Ave. Tel. 1.212.316.7490, www.stjohndivine.org Ouest 2315 Broadway at 85th St. Tel. 1.212.580.8700, www.ouestny.com Silver Moon Bakery 2740 Broadway at 104th St. Tel. 1.212.866.4717, www.silvermoonbakery.com Zabar’s 2245 Broadway at 80th St. Tel. 1.212.787.2000, www.zabars.com
©Paul Clemence
also find a number of old Irish pubs and smaller boutiques, along with cafés. Skip Starbucks for the beloved Silver Moon bakery on Broadway and 105th Street, renowned for their freshly baked pastries and coffee.