Dominica Traveller. Issue 01. 2016 by Paul Crask

CA R I B B E A N

WEST INDIES

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An Experience Worth a Thousand Pictures and Memories Experience one of the hidden secrets of the Caribbean, where every adventure of your imagination can come true. From lush tropical hikes to pristine beaches and an underwater world of kaleidoscopic colors, the Commonwealth of Dominica has it all. Discover your inner explorer. DiscoverDominica.com

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FEATURES 26

INDIGO ART

SECRETS OF MORNE AUX DIABLES

VOLCANIC LANDSCAPES

We meet artist Marie Frederick

Hiking river trails and discovering

What lies beneath Dominica’s nine

in her unique tree house art studio.

waterfalls on the slopes of Dominica’s

active volcanoes? We ask an expert.

northernmost volcano.

THE ROSEAU VALLEY

HISTORIC ROSEAU

FROM THE DEPTHS

Just a short hop from Roseau we

Dominica’s capital has plenty

Getting up close and personal

discover waterfalls, hot springs

of history, beauty and charm;

with sperm whales, Dominica’s

and tropical gardens.

you just have to know where to look.

largest visitors.

FIGHTING BACK Trying to save Dominica’s endangered mountain chicken frog from extinction.

106

UNFREEDOM. TRACES OF DOMINICA’S ENSLAVED

A KALINAGO CONVERSATION

Following the trails and trials

about Kalinago consciousness and

of Dominica’s runaway slaves.

a revival of the warrior spirit.

Chouboutouiba and Nichie Abo talk

110

A MAN OF THE EARTH

NELLY STHARRE

Meet Pomme, a man who

A tribute to one of Dominica’s most

lives in complete harmony with

talented reggae musicians,

the natural environment of Dominica.

sadly lost in 2015.

Cover Photo: Pomme by Paul Crask

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Capuchin

Cold Soufriere

Clifton

DOMINICA

Pennville

Cottage

Morne Aux Diables

Toucari Tanetane

Paix Bouche

Pointe Baptiste

Cabrits National Park

Calibishie

Bense

Woodford Hill Bornes Wesley

Picard

Douglas Charles Airport

Marigot

Morne Diablotin National Park Morne Diablotin

Atkinson

Dublanc Bioche

Bataka Crayfish River

Northern Forest Reserve

Salybia

Colihaut

Gaulette River Mahaut River

Kalinago Territory

Coulibistrie

Sineku

Castle Bruce

Central Forest Reserve

Salisbury Jacko Steps

St. Cyr

Bells

Mero Good Hope St. Joseph Petite SoufriĂ¨re Pont Casse

Grand Fond

Mahaut

Riviere Cyrique

Boeri Lake

Massacre

Morne Micotrin

Canefield

Laudat Trafalgar Wotten Waven Morne Prosper Eggleston

Castle Comfort

Freshwater Lake

Morne Trois Pitons National Park

La Plaine

Boiling Lake Valley of Desolation

Boetica

Morne Watt

Giraudel

Delices

Loubiere Foundland

Bellevue Chopin

Pointe Michel

Morne Plat Pays

Morne Patates

Soufriere

Cachacrou

Scotts Head

Tete Morne

Petite Savanne Berekua

Stowe

Fond St. Jean

Editorial

Welcome to the first edition of Dominica Traveller.

Become a Dominica traveller; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worth the journey. This island, once called Waitukubuli, is about 47km long and 26km wide and in that space there are nine active volcanoes, diverse habitats that include cloud forest, montane forest, swathes of rainforest, coastal woodland and fumarole vegetation. Tumbling down from the elevated interior are hundreds of rivers, each one with countless cascades and waterfalls. There are 32 recorded volcanic vents, there are animals you can find nowhere else, and there is the second largest boiling lake in the world. The indigenous Kalinago live on the north east coast in their own territory, and are virtually the only survivors of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first people. There is no other Caribbean island like Dominica and much of it is a mystery still to be explored, discovered, discussed, researched and unravelled, and this is why I created Dominica Traveller. Welcome to the very first edition. I hope you enjoy reading it and that you find it interesting Editor in Chief & Publisher: Paul Crask Layout & Art Director: Janie Conley-Johnson Creative Designer: Nigel Francis, Takumi Media Features Sub Editor: Polly Pattullo Photography & Contributors: Paul Crask, Arun Madisetti (AM) (From The Depths; photographed under Government permit), Celia Sorhaindo (CS) (Volcanic Landscapes; Unfreedom. Traces of Slaves)

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and perhaps even educational. And if you have never heard of this Caribbean country, or have it confused with another, I hope it inspires you to travel here and explore some of it for yourself. During the final stages of the production of this magazine, Tropical Storm Erika ravaged Dominica. Its streams and rivers swelled into raging torrents that ripped away land, buildings and roads, and steep mountainsides became deadly landslides that engulfed homes and some of the people within them. It was a tragedy almost beyond words and in the months and years to come as Dominica gets back on its feet again, the memory of what happened in August 2015 will continue to haunt many. Dedicated to those who were lost.

Paul Crask, Editor in Chief Immense thanks to the individuals, businesses and organisations who supported me and helped to make this publication possible. Special thanks to Pierre Deschamps (www.documentreefilms.com) Email: paulcrask@gmail.com www.dominicatraveller.com Facebook: dominicatraveller Please note that all text and images in this publication and on the Dominica Traveller website and associated social media are copyright protected and may not be reproduced or used without permission.

Bradt Island Guides Just some of the destinations in our range...

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Conscious Gear

HumanGear

San Francisco based humangear make ‘real gear for real humans’. Their innovative travel products are the result of watching people use things and then creating prototypes to fit. The products that make it, they hope, go some way to ‘making the world a better place’. We tried out some humangear products and found them quite nifty. GoToob was probably our favourite; squeezable, refillable travel tubes that are carry-on approved, have non-drip valves and even a handy suction cup so you can stick it to the bathroom wall. They come in two sizes: 37ml and 60ml. We also liked GoBites, an ergonomic connecting fork and spoon and GoCup, a collapsing travel cup. GoTubb is a handy container you can open with one hand, simply by squeezing, and GoTote is a travel bag that stands up and stays open; handy storage for all your cool humangear products. www.humangear.com C

CMY

100% Green

For 100% Green founder Nathalie Roland, biodegradable products such as bio polymer garbage bags, shopping bags, cups and containers are not just conscious products, they are an environmental mission. Help her spread the word by asking for 100% Green containers and bags when you shop or buy a lunch carry-out; and look out for 100% Green sponsored events such as Reggae On The Beach, L’Originale! According to Nathalie, ‘it’s not plastic, it’s fantastic!’ Let’s keep the Caribbean’s nature island 100% Green. Facebook: 100percentgreen 6

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Article Title or Section Title?

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Indigo Art Marie Frederick and her unique tree house art studio Located in the northern village of Bornes, Indigo Art Studio is the beguiling creation of Marie Frederick and her husband Clem. A painter of portraits and landscapes, Marieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s journey brought her from Europe to the Caribbean, where she fell in love with Dominica and continues to be inspired by it.

Indigo Art

Indigo tree house gallery; there always seems to be something new and curious to catch your eye.

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Originally from Deauville on the Normandy coast of France, Marie Frederick drove around Paris in her little deux chevaux, sometimes working on a hotel switchboard and other times in one of the city’s oldest vegetarian restaurants. In her free moments she painted stones and sold them for extra cash. But all the time she was there she dreamed of being elsewhere. She saved up and travelled to Greece and Morrocco, and in 1984 she flew to St. Martin on the recommendation of a friend. When she landed, she vowed that she would henceforth devote the rest of her life to art. “I will never work for anyone ever again,” she declared. In St. Martin she painted in inks and watercolours, selling her work where she could around the island until one day a friend with a newly restored boat offered her a return sailing trip to Dominica in exchange for a painting of his pride and joy. “I made the painting of the boat for him and he loved it. I remember I wore a bright red shirt and I had fifty dollars to last me a week,” she smiles through clouds of cigarette smoke. “The boat trip was easy. The sea was calm. We saw dolphins. The main problem was that there was no toilet and we had to survive on nothing but rice and lentils. But it was fun and the Dominican crew was very nice. When we arrived they helped me to find a

place to stay in Portsmouth. I fell in love with the island right away and I knew that somehow I had to live here.” On her second trip to Dominica she met Clem, a farmer from the village of Bornes. They rented a small shack in Lagon, Portsmouth, and Clem would bring papaya and other produce from his garden for them to eat. Having very little furniture they made a trip to Roseau to buy a mattress and a coal pot and they rode back to Portsmouth on an old Bedford truck, lying on their mattress, watching the island and the sea go by. Marie travelled back and forth between Dominica and St. Martin where she still sold paintings but eventually they moved into a room in Clem’s father’s house in Bornes and tried to make a home. “Lagon was too hot and full of mosquitoes,” she says. “Clem didn’t like it there at all. His father was very nice to me. He liked me and he told Clem She don’ have much money but she’s a good woman. It was nice there. But then we had some trouble… At one point I was standing on the side of the west coast highway wearing nothing but a bathing suit and a pair of handcuffs. But that story is going to remain a secret for the time being,” she grins. Then, after marrying in St. Lucia, in 1994 Clem built a home for them both in Bornes, and this is where I Indigo Art

Indigo cottage; as artistic and original as her gallery and studio.

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sit with her today, drinking coffee and talking about her life and art. The home is called Indigo and it is a very special creation. As well as farming, Clem discovered a talent for stonework and became a skilled and sought-after mason. Using river stone for the pilings, Marie’s gallery and kitchen is a rustic building of boards, brick, branches and driftwood, all creatively assembled to form a structure that feels rather like a tree house with its elevated views of forest and river valley below. Frequented by bananaquits, hummingbirds and finches, it is a harmonious gathering of wild life, wood and acrylic, where nature meets art and vice versa. Ornaments, stones, contorted tree limbs and driftwood, and messages carved into boards and chair backs means there always seems to be something new and curious to catch your eye. At the back of the gallery is a traditional outside kitchen with brick hearth and open fire. A pot of water, coffee or cocoa tea seems to be eternally simmering upon it, and magnificent bunches of bananas and plantain hang from hooks and tethers beyond. Flowers, especially ginger lilies are reminders of Marie’s love of gardens and gardening. We shift to her studio which doubles up as her home. In the centre of the single room is a large four poster bed and to one side a couple of desks; one with computer, the other crowded with colourful paints and unfinished works. The wooden walls are decorated with art and there is jazz music playing. On the porch we sip a home-made blend of coffee and cocoa and talk some more. Once settled in her new home, Marie switched from watercolours to acrylic and created many paintings that were inspired and influenced by a love of her simple, natural surroundings, village life and swings of mood and emotion. They are often somewhat Fauvist and naïve artworks that depict traditional ti kai board houses, gardens, villages, people and local landscapes. Portraits are complex and deep, and I am instinctively drawn to a series of facemasks entitled Qui suis-je? (Who am I?). Marie likes to reminisce about her famous visitors, such as Johnny Depp and Orlando Bloom, when Pirates of the Caribbean was being filmed in Dominica. Orlando would find refuge here when not working, hanging out in a hammock on the

porch for hours on end. “Johnny invited me to come to stay at his place in France,” she smiles. “But I told him no. I could only afford to travel to France every two years and it was the wrong time for me. Can you believe I said no to Johnny Depp? I know I can’t!” she laughs. She shows me a letter from Johnny and a write-up in a recipe book from Orlando. “They invited me to the dinner party to celebrate the end of filming,” she says. “I was sitting at the top table with all the stars.” I browse through folders of her paintings, each different in subject and style, yet each with a continuous thread, it seems; a journey from the restaurant tables of metropolitan Paris to the simplicity of life here on Dominica. To me her art suggests questions of self and purpose, and a strong connection to and appreciation of nature. Marie’s paintings weave in and out of the ingenious natural structures of her studio and gallery, forever entwined. At one time the gallery was an open house where visitors could drop in and peruse paintings, sip coffee or juice, even eat some of her marvellous Morocco influenced cooking. But Marie never really felt comfortable with that arrangement and now people can still drop in, but by prior appointment only. She also rents out a cottage – as original and artistic as her gallery and studio – and, somewhat full circle, she is painting stones again.

Traveller Notes For more information contact Marie Frederick on (767) 445 3486 or 276 0402. Her website is: www.mariefrederickgallery.com and her Indigo Art Gallery has a Facebook page. You can also find and buy Indigo branded t-shirts and essential oils at Romance Café in Mero. Look for hand-painted signs for Indigo in the village of Bornes. You’ll find it near the beginning of Waitukubuli National Trail Segment 12. Indigo Art

Hotel The Champs Picard, Portsmouth Start your day with a delicious made-to-order breakfast and breathtaking panoramas of the Caribbean Sea and Cabrits National Park. Perched high above Picard, Portsmouth, we are the perfect solution for vacationers of every kind. Garden rooms have en suite bathrooms, AC, WiFi, terrace and sea view. Individually designed, luxurious boutique rooms also enjoy private balcony and inroom dining. The Champs welcomes you back from your island adventures with wood-oven pizza, fine international dining, vegetarian specialties, and a wide selection of wines and cocktails either in our main restaurant or on our leisure and pool decks â&#x20AC;&#x201C; guests and public are all welcome. We aim to make your stay as comfortable and relaxing as possible. Award-winning and ideally located for Ross University and exploring the natural attractions of the north, choose The Champs. T: (767) 445 4452 | FB: TheChampsHotel E: info@HotelTheChamps.com www.HotelTheChamps.com

Sisters Beach Bar, Restaurant & Lodge Picard, Portsmouth Nestled on the beach, enjoying romantic sunsets and wonderful views of the Caribbean Sea, Sisters Beach Bar & Restaurant serves a fusion of Creole and international dinners, specialising in seafood. The lionfish and the mussels are particular favourites, but everything is genuinely good here. Even the pasta is home-made. Open for dinner daily from Monday through Saturday, Sisters may introduce lunchtime dining â&#x20AC;&#x201C; check the FB page for updates. The five stone Sisters Lodges enjoy colourful tropical garden surroundings and are just a short walk to the sandy beach. Each has two double beds, kitchenette, living room, fans and insect screens. Guests are welcome to pick ripe fruits. A relaxed ambience, comfortable, goodvalue accommodation, and excellent cuisine, for independent travellers exploring the north. T: (767) 445 5211 / 235 5454 E: sistersbeachbarrestaurant@gmail.com www.sisterssealodge.com Find us on Facebook 14

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Manicou River Portsmouth Fully solar-powered and set amid ten acres of forested hillside overlooking Douglas Bay and the Cabrits National Park, Manicou Riverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cottages, bar and bistro make for an authentic, comfortable and extremely scenic island vacation. Each of the cottages has a double bed, bathroom, kitchen and a deck with panoramic views that are certainly among the best on the island. The open-sided bar and bistro combines rustic and natural with style and attention to detail, serving a set menu of French Caribbean Creole dishes. Seating is limited and meals are by reservation only so call ahead. Or just turn up for a drink and sample the much sought after Manicou River fruit infused rum â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the selection is varied, the taste delicious and smooth. Just like the cottages, the restaurant views are jawdroppingly awesome. T: (767) 616 8903 | E: info@manicouriver.com www.manicouriver.com Find us on Facebook

Classique International Guest House Marigot Perched on a hillside above the northern village of Marigot and with superb views of the surrounding mountains, forest and ocean, Classique International Guest House is just ten minutes away from the airport. Convenient and family-owned, Classique has five spacious and well furnished en suite rooms with AC, fans, TV, WiFi, and small fridge. The suite enjoys two queen-sized beds and private balcony. Nestled within well-tended and colourful gardens the setting is both peaceful and secure, and guests are welcome to enjoy the large covered balconies or the sun terrace. Breakfast is included in the price and additional meals can be prepared for you on request. Classique International also hosts occasional events and wedding receptions; there is a bar, stage and large kitchen with serving room. T: (767) 445 8486 E: classiquedominica@gmail.com www.classiqueinternational.com Find us on Facebook Conscious Travel, Adventure & Discovery

Veranda View Guest House Calibishie Colourful and artistically designed three bedroom waterfront accommodation on the main road in Calibishie, Veranda View Guest House offers affordable comfort in a tranquil environment, with a cooling breeze and the soft music of the sea as constant companions. Guests can quite literally step from Veranda View into the clear, calm and shallow water that is protected by an inshore reef. Owner and host, Hermien, cooks for her guests upon request and specialises in home-made European and Creole dishes, especially fish, which is bought daily fresh from local fishermen. After a day out exploring the island, relax in a hammock on your own private veranda and enjoy panoramic views of the bay. Veranda View Guest House is located just 20 minutes from Portsmouth and the airport. T: (767) 445 8900 E: reserve@lodgingdominica.com www.lodgingdominica.com

Calibishie Lodges

Hotel & Bamboo Restaurant Calibishie Overlooking the Calibishie ocean coast and village, Calibishie Lodges Hotel is just 20 minutes from the airport, close to some of the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best white sand beaches, and a short walk from the dramatic Red Rocks. Generous suites have bedroom, bathroom, living area with double sofa bed, kitchenette and large private balcony, fans, TV, insect screens, fridge and free WiFi. Guests can enjoy the pool, gardens and excellent all day dining. The Bamboo Restaurant is open to guests and public, and serves Creole and international dishes. Our chefs use fresh local ingredients and are dedicated to providing a courteous and professional high class service to enhance your dining experience. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to try the unique Calibishie Rum Punch! The Bamboo Restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily from 7.30am to 9.00pm. T: (767) 445 8537 / 275 3362 E: info@calibishie-lodges.com www.calibishie-lodges.com Find us on Facebook 16

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Rainbow Restaurant Calibishie Perfectly located on the water’s edge and on the main Calibishie road, Rainbow Restaurant has a reputation for exquisite French Creole dining using only the freshest local fruits, vegetables, meats and seafood. Lionfish and curried chicken in pineapple are particular favourites here, but try anything – it is all really good. Chef and co-owner Karine is an artist in the kitchen while her partner and reggae singer Michael is the perfect host. Eat inside, on the covered beach or completely al fresco on the upper deck. The views are awesome, the sea breezes cooling, the ambience colourful and relaxing, and the food simply out of this world. Be sure to leave room for a fabulous dessert. There’s a pot of gold at the end of this rainbow – don’t miss it.

T: (767) 245 9995 / 245 4838 E: karineglascow@gmail.com Find us on Facebook

Villa Passiflora Calibishie One of Dominica’s most exquisite accommodation options, yet at the same time relaxed and comfortable, Villa Passiflora perches majestically on a hillside, enjoying a cooling breeze and panoramic views of the ocean. With three en suite bedrooms, a library and media room, a large fully equipped kitchen, and two fabulous covered decks, one with a small infinity pool, Villa Passiflora is ideal for a honeymooning couple, a holiday-making family or a group of friends. Housekeeping services are available and we can cook breakfast, lunch and dinner on request. We have a visiting masseuse and yoga expert, and caretakers live on the grounds for additional peace of mind. Just 20 minutes from the airport, Villa Passiflora is a great place to come to relax and unwind on the Caribbean’s nature island.

T: (423) 718 1842 | E: parkneur@comcast.net www.villapassiflora.com Find us on Facebook Conscious Travel, Adventure & Discovery

Secrets Of Morne Aux Diables Hiking rivers and discovering waterfalls on the slopes of Dominicaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s northernmost volcano

A stratovolcano with several lava domes and nested craters, Morne Aux Diables is 861m high and considered active. It is notoriously difficult to ascend – the usual trail to the peak runs from the coastal village of Vieille Case on its eastern slopes and joins Waitukubuli National Trail Segment 12 – and so it stands enigmatic and mysterious, often shrouded in mist.

Dominica’s neighbouring islands, they pose the tantalising question of whether there could be more. So far, however, no others have been found. From the heights of this volcano, small springs become streams and rivers that meander undisturbed through narrow valleys, canyons and ravines down to the sea. From the west and east coasts we decide to follow some of these diminutive waterways inland, passing through groves of aromatic bay and partially abandoned plantations of cocoa, coffee, coconut, citrus and banana to see what secrets they hide.

Lapluy Falls

The Northern Link Road weaves up and across its northern slopes connecting the villages of Toucari in the west and Pennville in the east, passing through a forest-covered crater, the volcano’s youngest, and home to the active Cold Soufriere. Surrounded by kaklen (Clusia Mangle) trees that are typical in this kind of volcanic environment, Cold Soufriere bubbles silently in the cold, damp air that accumulates at the base of this crater, its water slowly spilling away to the north where it eventually forms the Lamothe River.

This trail begins at the mouth of the diminutive Salt River on Douglas Bay. The area inland of the river mouth was cleared some time ago as part of a community tourism initiative that seems to have momentarily stalled. So for now this inauspicious trace is silent, save for the occasional greenbacked heron, meandering along the river bank between high, vine-covered pyroclastic cliffs and lofty coconut palms. The hike is easy going and, in just under an hour, we make our first discovery of the day.

On the vertiginous cliffs of the volcano’s northern flanks, near the Taffia River, Dominica’s only Amerindian petroglyphs were discovered. Small and rather unimpressive, unlike those of

The handful of locals who know this place refer to it as Lapluy Falls – the Rain Falls – perhaps because of the fine spray that drifts down from the forest above this impressive cavern, or maybe

Looking for water snails on the Salt River. © (CS)

NORTH REGION â&#x20AC;˘ TO STAY because this place would certainly be a raging torrent of water in the height of the rainy season, and an altogether different and difficult place to reach. We test a rough and partially broken ladder that someone has generously crafted from two tree trunks and some wooden boards, and then, not without a little apprehension, make our ascent up the first waterfall to the ledge above. Once there, we find a small pool within a tall conical chamber and another waterfall splashes down on us from a river somewhere above. Anyone who has been canyoning in Dominica would be familiar with the spectacular rock formations that are all around us. Vertiginous, curved walls, worn smooth by river flow over thousands of years, wet and colourful from water, moss and partial sunlight, surround us, and reveal how much could actually flow through here. We disturb crayfish in the upper pool, perhaps wishing they too had a broken ladder to ease their descent. On the return journey, the children look for water snails, known locally as vio, and find them attached to rocks in abundance in the many small river pools.

Bwa Nef Waterfall This waterfall trail is actually signposted, so perhaps less of a secret these days. You’ll find it on the road between Vieille Case and Pennville, along the eastern slopes of Morne Aux Diables. The Bwa Nef waterfall is on the Celestin Brenner River which begins life high up on the north eastern slopes of the volcano and is crossed by Waitukubuli National Trail segment 12 near L’Autre Bord, where it merges with the Aouya River before reaching the sea. We follow the faint and narrow trace steeply upwards through dark forest as it runs along the southern bank of the river, sometimes joining it and forcing us to climb up the river itself, negotiating slippery boulders and loose rocks. A tin can strapped to a post requests a ‘contribution’ for crossing a short section of private land and we duly oblige with a few dollars. After little more than half an hour we reach a conical cavern that seems filled with fine mist. Inside we find the waterfall cascading down volcanic rock into a tiny pool. A large boulder sits precariously overhead and filters the midday sunshine into beams.

Secrets Of Morne Aux Diables

NORTH REGION • TO STAY Lamothe River Falls This hike begins above the hamlet of Cottage, on the west coast, and follows a faint trace along the Lamothe River towards the Harrogate Estate on the north western slopes of the volcano. We negotiate rocks and boulders dotted around the old estate lands where they were once scattered by eruption; cotton-like seeds from an unseen tree drift by on the breeze, and thick clusters of papyrus fill the gaps between river rocks below. Arabica coffee saplings compete for sunlight, stretching tall stems and forming a corridor on either side of the track, reminding us that an estate once existed here, but which now has been consigned to the history books. We also see cocoa trees and tall coconut palms now abandoned to the forest, their fruit hard and beyond reach; emancipated crops, liberated and unfettered.

Traveller Notes The hike from Bornes to Delaford is one of the Waitukubuli National Trail’s most scenic segments (12). It heads from Bornes up to Morne Destinee, through the farmlands of Moore Park estate, and up and across the eastern elevations of Morne Aux Diables. The trail emerges at the village of Vieille Case and continues along a scenic stretch of coastline to Lower Pennville where you pick up the coastal road to Delaford. The views along this segment are spectacular so pick a day with good weather. National Trail segment 13 skirts the northern cliffs of Morne Aux Diables from Delaford to Capuchin. It passes through the ruins of Grand Fond, a former coffee estate, and ends at Canna, an area once settled by Amerindians and then by Capuchin monks.

For around ninety minutes the faint trace leads us up river until we arrive at the first of several cascades and pools. Rusty-coloured iron and yellowy-green sulphur deposits are etched into some of the rocks suggesting volcanic activity somewhere nearby, but we are unable to find it. Perhaps the deposits are carried from higher up this river near its source at Cold Soufriere; an adventure for another day. We scramble up and over the cascades and pools – fearless children leading the way - and after a little while reach our destination; a picturesque three-tier waterfall, each with its own deep pool. Those with a good head for heights scale the steep and slippery face of the middle waterfall to bathe in the pool above; surrounded by rock and forest, completely secluded and undisturbed like many of the secrets hidden within the embrace of this enigmatic mountain.

TO STAY •

NORTH REGION

THE JEWELS OF THE RIVERS

Terpsinoe 1000x magnification

Synedra 1000x magnification

Biddulphia 1000x magnification

Rhopalodia 1000x magnification

If you have ever slipped on a rock while wading across a river or stream, you have most likely touched some very special jewel-like organisms without knowing it. They are diatoms; beautiful and ornate single-celled algae that live in both freshwater and marine ecosystems. Diatoms are unique because instead of the cellulose cell walls of most plants, these cells use silica (think of their cell walls as made of glass). And the many different species of diatoms are separated by the structures and ornamentation of those silica cell walls, which are called frustules. They are very small and observing them requires a powerful microscope. Diatoms are practically invisible without one and their sizes are measured in micrometers (millionths of a meter). This means that when the ‘slime’ on a rock is collected or when some mosses are pulled from a seep, a scientist will not know what is in the sample until much later when it has been specially prepared for microscopy. In many parts of the world, diatoms have been identified and catalogued but very little work has been done in the Caribbean. However, a project which is underway by Dr. John Hains of Clemson University, is in the process of identifying and cataloguing all of the freshwater diatoms of Dominica. This project is the first of its kind for Dominica and the surrounding islands. A previous survey of algae was carried out in neighbouring Guadeloupe several years ago but focused more on algae than diatoms. Even in the very early days of his study, Dr. Hains has found far more diatoms than have previously been identified. Over the past three years, Dr. Hains, working under permits from Forestry, Wildlife & Parks Division,

has collected diatoms from scores of habitats and locations throughout the island; from Boeri Lake to various geothermal areas, and from mountain streams of all sizes. His study has found diatoms so delicate that they are almost invisible, even with a microscope (Boeri Lake) and some forms that seem confined to seepages that are influenced by hot springs or other geothermal features. Diatoms are important to all aquatic ecosystems. They are eaten by gobies, snails and many other aquatic organisms. Diatoms also are photosynthetic so they remove carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and release oxygen. Including the oceans, diatoms have been estimated to contribute from 20 to 40% of the earth’s oxygen. While the different species are all important to the study, it is the beauty of some of them that explain why many scientists view them as ‘jewels’. The images here are taken from a microscope at 1000x magnification and show some interesting examples of diatoms. The Rhopalodia and Synedra were collected from a seep near Freshwater Lake, the Biddulphia from a seep near Victoria Falls. Because Dominica is geologically young, most of the species have likely been transported to the island by birds or strong winds. If Dr. Hains manages to discover any new species here, he has promised to name them after some natural or cultural features of the island. Secrets Of Morne Aux Diables

Coral Reef Restaurant & Bar Calibishie One of Dominica’s least visible restaurants, yet one that is certainly worth seeking out, Coral Reef Restaurant & Bar is hidden behind the ‘one-stop shop’ Coral Reef Supermarket on the main street in Calibishie. Known by locals as ‘Gus Austrie’s Place’, we are located right on the waterfront. With coconut palms and a streak of powder white sand, the setting is perfect. Our tables sit along the open-sided deck where diners can enjoy a cooling breeze as well as great views of the ocean, the tranquil waters of the inshore coral reef, the volcanic islets and the dramatic Red Rocks of Pointe Baptiste. Our friendly staff are happy to describe a varied daily menu of local and international dishes that suit all tastes, and our restaurant is open every day from 8am to midnight, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. No reservations are necessary – just drop in and Coral Reef will always have something fresh for you to eat and drink. It’s great tasting and equally great value. There’s also free WiFi. Coral Reef also hosts parties and events, and we offer a very convenient take-out and catering service. It’s perfect if you are staying in the area. Speaking of convenience, our adjoining supermarket has all you need for your day out on the island and, if you are self-catering, stock up here on fresh food, drink and other essential items. A hidden treasure and a very pleasant surprise, you are always welcome at Coral Reef. T: (767) 445 7432

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Pointe Baptiste Estate Chocolate Pointe Baptiste, Calibishie Historic Pointe Baptiste Estate is now home to some of the nature island’s best chocolate. Having never found any chocolate to his liking, and with an abundance of cocoa trees, owner and nouveau chocolatier, Alan Napier, decided to make his own. Nibs, truffles and bars come in various strengths and flavours including 80% cocoa, mint, tangerine, ginger and others. Available island-wide, Pointe Baptiste Estate Chocolate also welcomes visitors. T: (767) 225 5378 E: chocolate@pointebaptiste.com www.pointebaptiste.com/chocolate

Calibishie Gardens

featuring Poz Restaurant & Bar Calibishie Enter the wonderful land of Poz and discover a fabulous place ‘where pozitive people meet’. Unique pillar house accommodation has king-sized island bamboo bed, TV, WiFi, fridge, bathroom and panoramic views. Chill out or party with friends by the swimming pool, in the wine bar, the restaurant, or the peaceful dining area in the lower gardens where wood oven pizza is served amid tranquil forest and birdsong. Playful, relaxing, always pozitive and fun, make our place your place. T: (767) 612 5176 / 265 7915 E: landofpoz@gmail.com Find us on Facebook

Conscious Travel, Adventure & Discovery

Volcanic Landscapes Dominica has nine active volcanoes. It is one of the highest concentrations in the world. Though scientists and seismologists study and monitor them, much of what lies beneath is still relatively unknown.

Morne Watt and the Valley of Desolation. ÂŠ (CS)

The Boiling Lake.

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Holli Frey is Associate Professor of Geology at Union College, New York. She has been bringing students to Dominica since 2012 after spending time on Montserrat studying the Soufriere Hills volcano. She explains the term ‘active’ is used to describe a volcano that has been active in some way within the last 125,000 years. Some may recall the more recent seismic swarms that were recorded in the south (Morne Patates in 2003) and the north (Morne Aux Diables in 2009), the latter felling churches in Vieille Case and Portsmouth. According to Holli they were probably caused by magma (molten rock) shifts below the surface and may indicate some kind of volcanic ‘reawakening’. Seismic swarms is the term used when a location experiences a sequence of earthquakes in a relatively short period of time. Among other signs of unrest, they are one of the events that typically precede volcanic eruptions. “Basically the magma moves around and when it gets closer to the surface you get these seismic events. The migration of magma upwards causes tremors. It may also affect other things such as the chemistry and the heat of water on the surface. Sometimes these seismic events are precursors for renewed volcanic activity and sometimes nothing more happens. That’s why seismicity alone is not used in monitoring volcanoes. Other types of monitoring include GPS and gas and water chemistry. These parameters are all currently monitored at active volcanoes like Soufriere Hills in Montserrat.” If you have ever wondered why Cold Soufriere on Morne Aux Diables is cold, yet other volcanic springs, say in the Wotten Waven area are hot, it is to do with the proximity of the magma chambers to the earth’s crust. The magma chamber that releases gases into the spring water at Cold Soufriere is deep down – perhaps some ten kilometres or so. Though the gases are superheated when they are released from the chamber, by the time they make it all the way up to the surface, they have cooled down. The magma chambers beneath

Wotten Waven are much closer to the crust, perhaps just a few kilometres or so down, and therefore when the superheated gases reach the surface, they are still hot and conduct heat into the ground water and rivers where they emerge. In the Valley of Desolation, on the Boiling Lake trail, the magma chamber is also relatively close to the surface and indeed the most recent eruptions in Dominica were phreatic eruptions (when magma heats the surface water) in the Valley of Desolation in 1880 and 1997. The ground feels warm here, the river water entering from the sides of the valley heats up, grey mud bubbles and steam hisses from fumarole vents. Despite their appearance, there is no water involved in the creation of fumaroles. They are gas vents rising from the magma chamber and, because the gases are so hot, they superheat any ground water or streams they come into contact with to create steam. Look around the mouth of fumaroles and you will see the yellowy deposits of precipitated sulphur which some consider effective in the treatment of skin disorders and the reason many choose to soak in hot volcanic spas. The main gases that are released from magma chambers are carbon dioxide (CO2), sulphates (SO4), and hydrogen sulphide (H2S). Hydrogen sulphide is the gas that smells of ‘rotten eggs’. It is colourless, flammable and poisonous. It is considered a health hazard if you are exposed to it in high concentrations or over a prolonged period of time. When it dissolves in water it is known as hydrosulphuric acid. Initially clear, this weak acid turns a cloudy white as it reacts with oxygen dissolved in the water. If metal ions are present, reaction with hydrogen sulphide creates metal sulphides which are a dark colour. Most rivers and streams in Dominica have a pH value somewhere between 6.5 to 7.5 which is around neutral – neither predominantly acidic nor alkaline. In the 32 recorded geothermal sites, including the Valley of Desolation, the pH value of the Volcanic Landscapes

water is around 2 to 3, which means they are acidic. This acidity, combined with the gases from the magma chambers and the heat (the Valley of Desolation springs are recorded at 80-90°C) has a profound effect upon geology. The volcanic mud we smear on our faces when we hike to the Boiling Lake is actually rock residue, a soupy slurry resulting from this combination of heat and chemistry. Rocks break down relatively quickly in volcanic conditions – the bright red soil you see in some areas of Dominica is actually the eroded remains of rocks that were exposed to high concentrations of heat and acidity when those parts of the island were formed. Most rocks are made up of silicon dioxide (SiO2), aluminium oxide (Al2O3), Calcium Oxide (CaO), magnesium oxide (MgO), iron oxide (FeO), potassium oxide (K2O), sodium oxide (Na2O), and titanium dioxide (TiO2). Geologists categorise rocks based on their silicon dioxide content (usually 4575% weight of the total). In Dominica the predominant rock is known as andesite, a volcanic rock which has 58-64% weight of silicon dioxide (it’s also the predominant rock of the Martian crust.). As for the Boiling Lake itself; here we have an extremely large and deep fumarole whose gases rise from a magma chamber and superheat the ground water turning it into steam and forcing it up to the surface where it condenses to water and is trapped within a volcanic crater. The lake is also fed by streams and spills out on its eastern lip to form the White River. This activity is largely consistent but there have been episodes in the past where activity has subsided. This has resulted in no steam being forced to the surface and the lake’s level has settled to that of the surrounding water table and has thus ‘emptied’. The Boiling Lake is actually at a higher elevation than the surrounding water table thanks to the power of the superheated steam and so when it empties due to rare periodic lulls in volcanic activity, the water is simply finding its natural level. The last time this happened, as the lake was refilling, the water was actually cold and 30

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with a neutral pH. It took around two years to get back to ‘normal’. From a volcanologist’s point of view, one of the things that makes Dominica such an interesting place to study are the voluminous explosive deposits. The explosive eruption that created the Roseau Ignimbrite (upon which the capital is built), for example, generated about 58km3 of material, making it the largest eruption in the Caribbean in 200,000 years (Carey and Sigurrdsson, 1980). The eruption produced pyroclastic flow deposits over 200m thick in central Dominica and blanketed nearby Caribbean islands and the eastern Caribbean Sea in ash (Sigurdsson, 1972; Carey and Sigurdsson, 1980). Pyroclastic flow deposits, for example those around the Layou, are up to 20m thick and include lots of pumice clasts – which float – and are quite striking to look at. They often have a white or chalky appearance, sometimes feature layers of fine ash alternating with larger fragments of rock (for example in Grand Savanne), and also make striking coastal exposures (for example around Wesley and Grand Bay). These explosive deposits contrast with lava domes which are effusive (molten rock that has solidified). The lavas are dense, hard rock, with lots of crystals visible. One of the best places to see cobbles of this andesite is on the isthmus at Scotts Head. The lava blocks have been rounded by the waves, but you can see lots of white (plagioclase) and black (pyroxene) crystals. Dominica’s volcanic landscape is made up of a series of domes that form a rough ‘spine’ down the island. Determining what lies beneath them and whether islanders should be concerned about any of it, is one of the challenges Holli faces via a research grant from National Geographic. In the first part of her study, Holli will look into the ages of different deposits around Dominica. This will help her to unravel geological history and determine whether we are all sitting on top of one very large and connected magma chamber, or whether, more likely, there are in fact many isolated chambers beneath the

TO STAY â&#x20AC;˘

NORTH REGION Fumaroles superheating the stream bed in the Valley of Desolation.

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by M. John Roobol* and Alan L. Smith**

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From A.L. Smith, M.J. Roobol, G.S. Mattioli, J.E. Fryxell, G.E. Daly, and L.A. Fernandez, 2013 “The Volcanic Geology of the Mid-Arc Island of Dominica, Lesser Antilles”: Geological Society of America Special Paper 496, used with permission of the Geological Society of America.

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Present Affiliations: MJR: The Anchorage, Sandy Haven, St. Ishmaels, Haverfordwest, Pembrokeshire SA62 3DN, U.K.; ALS: Dept. of Geological Sciences, California State University, 5500 University Parkway, San Bernardino, CA 92407, USA. Present Affiliations: Thegrants Anchorage, Sandy Haven, St. Ishmaels, Haverfordwest, Pembrokeshire SA62 3DN, U.K.; Fieldwork supportedMJR: by NSF EAR 7717064, EAR 9527273, OEDG 01119934, GEO 0119934, ALS: Geological Sciences, NASADept. NCC of W-0088, and funds fromCalifornia CSUSB. State University, 5500 University Parkway, San Bernardino, CA 92407, USA. Fieldwork supported by NSF grants EAR 7717064, EAR 9527273, OEDG 01119934, GEO 0119934, NASA NCC W-0088, and funds from CSUSB. Note: to print this map at the correct scale of 1:100,000, the 10 kilometer bar scale has to be 10 cm long.

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Volcanic Landscapes

NORTH REGION • TO STAY surface. Because Dominica has a history of large, explosive eruptions, including the largest in the Caribbean in the last 200,000 years, it is important to understand the plumbing systems that feed the volcanoes. The second part of the study will focus on the chemistry and temperature of a sample of Dominica’s rivers and streams. Two years of data has already helped to give Holli a base line from which she can measure changes following any seismic activity. If a particular stream changes in composition, it could mean that a magma layer has moved upwards and should be specifically monitored. Holli is one of many professionals also involved in Vuelco (www.vuelco.net) which

is an EU funded programme trying to understand the processes behind volcanic unrest in Europe and Latin America. The team is made up of experts from around the globe and one of the six volcanoes they are studying with interest is Dominica’s Morne Aux Diables. “So little is known about Dominica’s volcanoes,” she says. “And given there were fairly recent swarms around Morne Aux Diables it is certainly interesting to study what may be going on there, if anything. It’s not alarmist, it’s just science, but it’s science that can potentially answer some very important questions regarding the landscape, history, and the volcanic future of the island.”

Traveller Notes Dominica’s nine ‘active’ volcanoes are: Morne Aux Diables, Morne Diablotin, Morne Trois Pitons, Morne Micotrin, Morne Anglais, Morne Plat Pays, Morne Watt, Grand Soufriere Hills and the Valley of Desolation. Morne Watt is inaccessible to hikers, and there are no marked trails on Grand Soufriere Hills. The typical habitat at the summit of Dominica’s volcanoes is known as elfin woodland or cloud forest. Frequently cloaked in mist and cloud, the moisture and dampness of this environment provide ideal conditions for mosses, lichens and ferns to thrive. A low-growing regionally endemic tree, known locally as the kaklen or kaklin (Clusia mangle), often dominates the terrain, growing in a dense, tangled blanket some 2-3m above the ground. These are the trees you must climb through on the Morne Diablotin and Morne Trois Pitons trails. They have thick, ovate leaves, dark red, hard-skinned fruit, and small white flowers. Kaklen is also found growing in volcanic landscapes and you will find it surrounding Cold Soufriere on Morne Aux Diables. The Boiling Lake is often cited as the second largest of its kind in the world. Top of the list is Frying Pan Lake and the interconnected Inferno Crater Lake in the Waimangu Volcanic Rift Valley on the North Island of New Zealand. 34

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TO STAY •

NORTH REGION Cold Soufriere.

Volcanic Landscapes

Tiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bamboo Cottages Restaurant & Bar Wotten Waven Featuring Volcanic Hot Pools. Quaint and rustic single and double bamboo cottages are set amid tropical flower and rainforest gardens. Each has private bathroom and is comfortable and clean. At the foot of the lush gardens is a small river and three thoughtfully designed volcanic hot pools. Mineral rich and in a picture perfect setting, these natural waters are the perfect way to relax after a day exploring the nature island. Two additional hot pools are enclosed by bamboo cabanas and offer greater privacy. The open-sided bamboo restaurant serves traditional Creole dishes by prior reservation and is a nice place to relax with a freshly squeezed fruit juice, cold beer or rum punch. Located in the village of Wotten Waven, Tiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is close to Trafalgar Falls and National Trail segments 3 and 4. T: (767) 448 1998 / 225 4823 E: tiacottages@gmail.com www.tiasbamboocottages.com

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Sunshine Cottage & Restaurant Shawford, Roseau Valley Thoughtfully designed vegetarian and vegan restaurant and rental cottage located in the heart of the Roseau Valley. The private cottage is set in tranquil forest surroundings and has 2 bedrooms, bathroom with shower, kitchenette, WiFi, living area and large veranda with hammocks for snoozing or chilling with a good book. The spacious open-plan restaurant enjoys forest and garden views and serves tasty vegetarian and vegan dishes, including wood oven pizza, to both cottage guests and the public. Our focus is on delicious healthy food in peaceful, relaxing and secure surroundings. Just a short hop from Roseau, the Trafalgar Falls and many of the island’s famous hiking trails, Sunshine Cottage and Restaurant are ideal for adventurous, health conscious travellers. English, French, German and Italian spoken. T: (767) 285 6399 | E: sunshinedca@gmail.com www.sunshinecottagedominica.com Find us on Facebook

Screw’s Sulphur Spa Wotten Waven Artistically designed hot, mineral rich volcanic pools and an exhilarating water slide combine to make Screw’s more than just a spa – it’s an adventure. Set within lush rainforest, garden and river surroundings, Screw’s is great fun and very healthy all at the same time. If you are visiting by cruise ship, with family, or via independent travel – don’t miss it. Come in the day time and soak up the minerals beneath the natural shade of the tree canopy, or in the evening and relax to by the light of the moon and the stars. Food, drink, fresh fruits, Reggae music and a warm welcome are all part of this very popular and unique spa and water park experience. Screw’s is open every day except Monday.

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Roseau Valley

Dominica’s capital sits at the mouth of a broad river valley that is home to waterfalls, volcanic hot springs and tropical gardens. TRAFALGAR FALLS Thanks in part to the attention it receives during the cruise ship season, Trafalgar, along with the Emerald Pool, is one of Dominica’s best known and most photographed natural attractions. The two waterfalls, known affectionately as ‘father’ and ‘mother’, are both accessible but getting to their pools is not without challenge. Most guides will lead you to the mother, fewer tackle the more demanding climb up to the father. As incredible as it seems, the huge volcanic rocks and boulders you have to negotiate to get there actually move during the flooding of the 38

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wet season, and this means the trail is forever a moveable feast. Anita McKinley, from Carriacou, made it up to the Father Fall. “As we looked at the waterfall from below, I felt I’d never make it. The way up looked daunting and almost impossible. But the best adventure for me is the one you never expected, the one that surprises and challenges at the same time. With no visible trail and boulders the size of cars, we literally hauled each other up over huge rocks and through crevices like explorers searching for treasure.”

There’s another way to get to the pools; from the very top of the waterfalls. Richard Metawi of Extreme Dominica has done it a few times. “As you approach the top of the Father Fall from the river above and then look down at the water plunging into the pool below, you see the Roseau Valley from a whole different perspective, through a kaleidoscope of rainbows created by the light and the spray. It looks magical. It takes me about five minutes to rappel down the 240 feet from top to bottom. I wonder how quickly the water does it?”

Leaping into the Father Falls Pool. ÂŠ (CS)

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;The best adventure for me is the one you never expected, the one that surprises and challenges at the same time.â&#x20AC;?

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Papillote Wilderness Retreat Trafalgar

Immaculate and mature tropical gardens with waterfalls and mineral rich hot volcanic pools – this is the setting for Papillote Wilderness Retreat, Dominica’s most renowned and respected nature resort. A delightful self-contained familysized cottage nestles at the foot of the gardens with veranda, WiFi and its very own hot pool. Three other self-contained garden apartments are also available and their verandas are relaxing and tranquil places to unwind. The open-sided Rainforest Restaurant enjoys gorgeous views as well as visiting birds, and serves high quality cuisine from 10am to 6pm. ‘Interlude packages’ are available to all and include garden tour, relaxation time in a hot pool, followed by a delicious lunch. Papillote offers massage and yoga and is within a 15 minute walk to the Trafalgar Falls, and just a 15 minute drive from Roseau. T: (767) 448 2287 | E: papillote@cwdom.dm www.papillote.dm www.papillotetropicalgardens.com Find us on Facebook

Cocoa Cottages & Extreme Dominica Canyoning & Adventure Tours Roseau Valley COCOA COTTAGES is an artistic, laid back and tranquil place to stay in the heart of the Roseau Valley. Six comfortable rooms and a tree house are stylish yet in harmony with their natural surroundings. Conveniently located close to major trail heads, waterfalls and hot spas, come and explore Dominica to its fullest - and don’t forget to try our fabulous home-made CocoJazz chocolate ! EXTREME DOMINICA offers a unique and exciting perspective of the island. Canyoning tours take you deep into breathtaking river canyons where you rappel down hidden waterfalls and leap into crystal clear pools. No experience is necessary and all equipment and training is provided – just bring swimsuit, sneakers and a spirit of adventure. Go Pro helmet cam rentals available to record your journey. Cocoa Cottages T: (767) 276 2920 E: cocoacottage@gmail.com www.cocoacottages.com Extreme Dominica T: (767) 295 7272 E: extremedominica@gmail.com www.extremedominica.com 42

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PAPILLOTE GARDENS The ten acre tropical garden at Papillote Wilderness Retreat was first created in 1967 by owner Anne Jno Baptiste and then rebuilt after it was destroyed by Hurricane David in 1979. Though it appears to be a natural forest environment, the garden has been thoughtfully created and planted to look that way and it hosts a an impressive collection of aroids, bromeliads, gingers, heliconias, begonias and orchids along with specimen species such as the elephant foot yam (Amorphophallus paeoniifolius) and jade vine (Strongylodon macrobotrys). A walk along the meandering footpaths of this exquisite garden also takes in a waterfall, warm water streams and pools. Birdlife is abundant here, especially hummingbirds, and those with a keen eye may also spot stick insects amid the flowers and foliage. Roseau Valley

Chez Ophelia Cottage Apartments Roseau Valley Relax in the embrace of nature, the music of birds and the warm welcome and hospitality of Ophelia; Dominica’s Lady of Song. Five picture-perfect self-catering bungalows contain all you need for your stay on the nature island. There is free WiFi and the restaurant serves fine Dominica cuisine on request. A tranquil ambience and ideal for independent travellers, Chez Ophelia is located a short distance from major trail heads, natural attractions and hot spas. French spoken. T: (767) 448 3438 / 615 6518 E: chezophelia@cwdom.dm www.chezophelia.com

River Rock Café Trafalgar Just a short distance to Trafalgar Falls, the hot spas of Wotten Waven and the main trail heads of the Morne Trois Pitons National Park, River Rock is the ideal stopping-off point for hikers, explorers and nature lovers. Open daily and serving local lunches, great sandwiches, dinner by reservation, cold beers, juices and a delicious rum punch, relax on the awesome dining deck and enjoy the fabulous river view. T: (767) 225 0815 Find us on Facebook

Exotica Cottages Giraudel Traditionally styled, fully-equipped hardwood rental and residential cottages are nestled on a mountainside just 10 minutes from Roseau, enjoying fabulous Caribbean Sea views and a cooling breeze. Embraced by forest, flower, vegetable and fruit gardens, Exotica is also noted for owner Fae’s delicious home-cooked Caribbean fare. Whether you rent a vacation cottage – short or long term – or invest in one for us to manage for you, Exotica guarantees a truly authentic and peaceful Dominica experience. T: (767) 448 8839 / 8849 E: exotica@cwdom.dm www.exotica-cottages.com 44

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Castle Comfort Lodge and Restaurant - 1/3 page profile Aperem. Ectint rerovidelis eos reperem. Ulpa dolorep elibust ruptur? Adicaectiaes a cum fuga. Ut laccae pedion remperf errumque ea si iunt volupis imuscid excepudae nus. Gia cor ma sumque sinctotatus dent volore consect otatectem quae vel modis aut et lam dellest, asinulpa voluptae pellibea vel ipiderf erchicae plaborum simus dolupta sperit ut velluptatium nonsequis quate pere volutem derovitis por Castle Comfort Lodge, Castle Comfort, Roseau T: (767) 448 2188 | E: dive@cwdom.dm www.castlecomfortdivelodge.com

Castle Comfort Lodge and Restaurant Aperem. Ectint rerovidelis eos reperem. Ulpa dolorep elibust ruptur? Adicaectiaes a cum fuga. Ut laccae pedion remperf errumque ea si iunt volupis imuscid excepudae nus. Gia cor ma sumque sinctotatus dent volore consect otatectem quae vel modis aut et lam dellest, asinulpa voluptae pellibea vel ipiderf erchicae plaborum simus dolupta sperit ut velluptatium nonsequis quate pere volutem derovitis por Castle Comfort Lodge, Castle Comfort, Roseau T: (767) 448 2188 | E: dive@cwdom.dm www.castlecomfortdivelodge.com

Castle Comfort Lodge and Restaurant Aperem. Ectint rerovidelis eos reperem. Ulpa dolorep elibust ruptur? Adicaectiaes a cum fuga. Ut laccae pedion remperf errumque ea si iunt volupis imuscid excepudae nus. Gia cor ma sumque sinctotatus dent volore consect otatectem quae vel modis aut et lam dellest, asinulpa voluptae pellibea vel ipiderf erchicae plaborum simus dolupta sperit ut velluptatium nonsequis quate pere volutem derovitis por The beautiful Castle Comfort Lodge, Castle Comfort, Roseau gardens T: (767) 448 2188 | E: dive@cwdom.dmand pools of Ti Kwen Glo Cho. www.castlecomfortdivelodge.com Roseau Valley

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VOLCANIC SPRINGS & SULPHUR SPAS Sitting on a geological bed of ignimbrite, a pyroclastic flow deposit that resulted from huge explosions from the sides of nearby volcanoes, some spring waters in the area are heated by a subterranean magma layer and have been channelled and pooled by innovative villagers to form mineral rich spas. Thus Wotten Waven has transformed itself into a ‘wellness village’ where locals and visitors alike regularly immerse themselves in the warm embrace of artistically fashioned rock pools. The gardens leading to and around these pools are attractive and complement the natural environment of the valley. Cross the bridge over the River Blanc between Wotten Waven and Trafalgar and you’ll see steam rising from the ‘Dragon’s Mouth’, one of numerous volcanic vents in this area. Roseau Valley

Historic Roseau

A view of Roseau and the visiting Queen Mary II from the summit of Morne Bruce. 48

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Dominica’s diminutive capital has plenty of history, beauty and charm – you just have to know where to look. King George V Street is a good place to start. This bustling thoroughfare hosts crowded bus stops, shops, bars, hotels and eateries, all of which are often masked by endless lines of vehicles – some moving slowly along, others spread eagle over pavements as if dropped rather than parked there – and people of all walks of life, weaving in and out of them, getting on with the business or leisure of their day. Look up above it all, however, and through the web of communications and electrical wires you’ll see examples of traditional

Caribbean architecture; hipped roofs and dormer windows, wooden jalousies framed by heavy hurricane shutters, and iron and wooden verandas decorated with ornate fretwork, all against a backdrop of forestcovered mountains. At the western end of King George V Street is the Old Market. It began life as a busy Sunday market where produce was traded and also where recaptured Maroons (runaway slaves) were executed. Located within the square is a disused cast iron fountain that sits upon

an old well. According to British abolitionist Joseph Sturge in 1837 “Many were brought to Roseau and butchered in cold blood; and there is a well there, which though of sweet water, and in the centre of the market place, remains unused to this day, from a belief that it is defiled with the blood of these unfortunate people.” Today the market square hosts craft and souvenir stalls and its proximity to the cruise ship jetty means it is popular with day visitors during the high season (October to May). Continued on page 51

Historic Roseau

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Between the Old Market and the Bay Front (Dame Eugenia Charles Boulevard) is the town’s original post office building, which was constructed in 1810. Today it houses the Tourist Information office on the ground floor and the Dominica Museum up above. Portsmouth & The North

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At the southern tip of the Bay Front is Fort Young Hotel. On a slightly elevated position above the original French settlement, a small wooden fort was constructed in 1720 to protect Roseau’s inhabitants from attack. The perceived threat may have been from the British, but it could also have come from the Kalinago who had a settlement called Sairi at the mouth of what is known today as the Roseau River. A sturdier stone structure was built in 1770 by Sir William Young, the first governor of Dominica during the British occupation of the island. Between 1778 and 1805 the French attempted to recapture Dominica and the fort was the scene of fierce fighting. It was as a direct result of this warfare that in 1805 the settlement of Roseau caught fire and burned to the ground. From the 1850s the fort was used as a police station and a hundred years later in 1964 it was converted into a hotel which had to be rebuilt following Hurricane David in 1979. The original battlements and ramparts of the fort can still be seen beneath its more modern additions.

State House House of Fort Young Assembly Hotel Public Library VI

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administrator, Hesketh Bell, and funded by philanthropist Andrew Carnegie, the library was constructed in 1906. It is a beautiful building with a Georgian-style veranda wrapped around the south side overlooking a small garden and the sea.

On the small traffic island near the entrance to Fort Young is the Neg Mawon Memorial that commemorates both the fighting Maroons and the emancipation of all slaves that was eventually achieved in 1838. Next to the Fort Young Hotel is Peebles Park which, even when cruise ships are in port, somehow seems to retain a peaceful serenity away from the hubbub of the Bay Front and the Old Market. With its colourful flamboyant trees, wide benches, lawn and bandstand, it is an oasis of calm. On the small enclosed 52

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triangular lawn opposite the park is the cenotaph, a memorial to Dominicans who lost their lives fighting in World War I and II. The smaller memorial next to it honours the Free French who came to Dominica in 1940 from Martinique and Guadeloupe following the fall of France to Germany. These islands supported the Vichy regime until US naval blockades forced them to switch their allegiance to the Free French. On the other side of Fort Young is the Public Library. Designed by Dominica’s first Crown Colony

Across Victoria Street, opposite the library, is the gated entrance to the grounds of Dominica’s unconscionable State House and next door, to the south, is the colourful House of Assembly, the nation’s parliament building. It was originally constructed in 1811, but in 1979 it was destroyed by arsonists and had to be rebuilt. On the corner of Victoria Street opposite the cenotaph and Fort Young is the St George’s Anglican Church. Built in the 1820s, the church was another victim of Hurricane David in 1979 and had to be reconstructed. On the corner of Cross Street and Virgin Lane is the Bethesda Methodist Church which is situated in close proximity to the Bishop’s House and the Roseau Cathedral.

In all likelihood the first Catholic church in Roseau was an opensided wooden hut with a roof made of river reeds (in French, roseaux, the word that gave the town its name), and it would have been in such an inauspicious setting that Bishop Dom Gervaise administered the sacrament of confirmation to French foresters and lumber merchants in 1727. The French gradually established themselves along the south coast and began to accommodate themselves in the vicinity of the Kalinago village of Sairi. In 1730, Father Guillaume Martel arrived and began work on a solid timber church for his growing congregation. The new church had a stone floor and was approximately 12m long by 5m wide. Located in the same area as the present cathedral, this timber structure survived for almost a hundred years until it was destroyed by a hurricane in 1816. It was not for another 24 years that a replacement was completed, only for everyone to decide it was far too small. Emancipation meant that former slaves were now free to worship in Roseauâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s church, and so a programme of enlargement began that did not reach its conclusion until around a hundred years later. In more recent times the cathedral has been off limits to the public while it has its roof rebuilt. Continued on page 58 Historic Roseau

Café Desiderata Old Street, Roseau Immerse yourself in the Zen-like ambiance of Café Desiderata’s fine dining experience or our Tapas Lounge where delectable tempura and tapas accompany wine and conversation on Friday and Saturday evenings. Café Desiderata’s high quality breakfast and lunch menu changes daily according to what is fresh and available. Start your morning with freshly brewed coffee, crepes or perhaps our special breakfast burrito. Our popular lunch menu includes delicious entrées such as spicy octopus soup, coconut chicken curry, or couboullion mahi mahi, all lovingly prepared by Nikki, our award-winning Island Chef. We are located in the historic French Quarter of Roseau near the Old Market Square and we are open daily except Sunday.

T: (767) 448 6525 E: desideratasales@gmail.com Find us on Facebook

Le Petit Paris Bakery Roseau Authentic and easy going, Le Petit Paris bakes daily fresh baguettes, breads, croissants, quiche and more to take away or enjoy with local coffee or seasonal fruit juice in its covered al fresco restaurant. A popular and extensive lunch time menu includes wood oven pizzas, baguette sandwiches, salads and other great tasting delicacies, all carefully prepared with high quality ingredients and an unmistakable hint of France. Relaxed and casual dining is complemented by professionally selected fine European and New World wines, and friendly and helpful staff. Le Petit Paris is happy to cater for vegetarians and also has a pizza delivery service. Located next to Alliance Francaise on the east side of the Botanic Gardens. Open 9:00am to 5.30pm Tuesday through Saturday, and until 9:00pm on Fridays.

T: (767) 317 3333 FB: Le Petit Paris Dominica 54

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Earl Etienne Art Asylum 40 Independence Street, Roseau Inspiration for many young painters, Earl Etienne is Dominicaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best known and respected contemporary artist. From the west coast village of Massacre, Earlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s art is influenced by Dominican traditions and culture as well as the natural environment. Landscape, portrait and abstract, as well as his famous bouzzaille technique where images of island life appear from smoke and soot patterns, are all hallmarks of his diverse work. A sense of urgency pervades his more recent pieces, showing the intensity and enjoyment of the creative process, as well as freedom from conformity and fashion.

T: (767) 449 2484 / 225 5836 E: dariusetienne@yahoo.com www.earletienne.com

Ellingworth Moses Art Studio & Gallery 87 Hillsborough Street, Roseau Ellingworth Moses is a highly regarded painter from the south coast of Dominica. His early works were realistic landscapes but in recent years he has moved to more abstract and sophisticated artworks. Ellingworth likes to experiment with diverse media and feels unconstrained by any one particular style. His abstracts often involve the use of thread which symbolizes the ties between people and the landscape, as well as the human bonds between people of all creeds. Ellingworth strongly believes in equality, that we are all one people, equal regardless of race and colour, and therefore the figures in his paintings are often featureless, and without identity.

T: (767) 225 2132 E: mosesartda@yahoo.com www.emosesart.com Conscious Travel, Adventure & Discovery

Garraway Hotel Roseau Located on the Bay Front, within the Old French Quarter, Garraway Hotel has deluxe rooms and suites that suit all kinds of traveller. All are en suite and have AC, WiFi and fans. The Ole Jetty Bar offers casual drinks and dining and the Balisier Restaurant serves fine Creole and international cuisine. Both enjoy a splendid Caribbean Sea view. Our open-air roof top terrace is a great place to chill out in the company of sunset and stars. T: (767) 449 8800 E: garraway@cwdom.dm www.garrawayhotel.com

Urban Garden Café 8 Castle Street, Roseau Healthy, organic and extremely delicious! Drop into Urban Garden Café for breakfast, lunch and daytime snacks – all prepared with the finest and freshest ingredients and served at unbeatable prices. If you are looking for convenient, great tasting, healthy food in the Roseau area, look no further than Urban Garden Café! We also deliver. Find us on Castle Street in the old French Quarter. Open 7am-5pm Mon-Thurs and until late on Fri. T: (767) 317 8888 E: urbangardendominica@gmail.com FB: urbangardencafe

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Pirates Ltd. Long Lane, Roseau Located just behind the Bay Front, close to the Old Market and Cruise Ship Jetty, Pirates is a convenient, well-stocked duty free store that is popular with both locals and visitors. With one of the most impressive selections of fine wines anywhere on the island, Pirates’ air-conditioned ‘cellar’ is a treasure chest of European and New World favourites that will suit all palettes, pockets and occasions. The cellar also stocks prosciutto ham, cured sausages, a variety of French cheeses, and Swiss and Belgian chocolate. In the main store you’ll find a wide range of alcoholic drinks; from Cognac, malt whisky, gin and vodka, to local and Caribbean rum. Pirates also stocks tobacco and fine Cuban cigars. Fashion accessories include designer watches and sunglasses. Pirates is open six days a week from 8.30am (closed Sunday) and has a delivery service. If you are lucky enough to live on the nature island, if you are organising an event, if you are self-catering, visiting on a cruise, or just looking to spoil yourself, drop into Pirates store on Long Lane, Roseau, and let us serve you. T: (767) 449 9774 | E: pirate@cwdom.dm Find us on Facebook

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Continued from page 53

Along the riverbank, at the northern tip of the Bay Front is the Roseau New Market. Here fresh fruit and vegetables, flowers, seasonings, red meats and poultry are sold. The market is open every day except Sunday, but the majority of farmers and hucksters arrive to sell their goods on Friday and Saturday. From late on Friday night through to Saturday afternoon the market is a lively affair, in fact very much a social occasion. The Roseau City Council buildings, located opposite the Fish Market and the Ferry 58

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Terminal, are some of the oldest still standing in the town. This was once the location of the townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Barracoon, where slaves were temporarily barracked before being auctioned in the small courtyard beyond the archway on the south side of the building. The architectural style of the Barracoon is very similar to those constructed on the West African coast to house slaves prior to boarding ships bound for the West Indies. On the east of the town are the Botanic Gardens (also called the Botanical Gardens). Planting of the 16ha land, formerly a sugar

plantation, began in 1890. The original idea for the gardens was an economic one, propagating crop seedlings for the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s farmers. The ornamental gardens of today are the result of the lifelong work of Joseph Jones, who managed their development from 1892. Botanists from Kew Gardens in England supplied tropical species that they had collected from all over the world, thereby transforming the gardens from a purely functional nursery to an attractive landscape of exotic trees and shrubs. Ornately decorated iron gates were erected, ponds were created, and over 80 species of palm were also added. Part of the gardens was later lawned and set aside for the cricket ground and pavilion. Hurricane David wrought havoc on the gardens and much was lost. In front of the Agricultural Division buildings are the crushed remains of a school bus. A giant African baobab tree fell on the empty bus during the hurricane and it was left there, exactly as it fell. The tree was cut, but lateral

off-shoots grew and produced the tree you see today. The Botanic Gardens are still divided into an economic section and an ornamental section. The ornamental section on the western side is the most visible; the economic section is on the eastern side. Division of Agriculture, veterinary and laboratory buildings are located between the two sections in the southeast corner. The northernmost buildings are home to the two parrot aviaries where it is possible to see Dominica’s endemic Amazonian parrots, the sisserou and the jaco. There is also a captive breeding centre for Dominica’s endangered frog, the mountain chicken, or crapaud. The Forestry, Wildlife & Parks Division located just off Valley Road, opposite the Alliance Francaise and Petit Paris Bakery, sells An Illustrated Guide to Dominica’s Botanic Gardens which is a good source of information if you are interested in the local and exotic plants and trees that still grow here. Historic Roseau

Evergreen Hotel Castle Comfort, Roseau Perfectly situated on the waterfront just 1 mile from Roseau and with easy access to the island’s main attractions, Evergreen is a relaxing 17 room hotel with fine dining restaurant and casual Café Sol. Rooms are en suite with balcony, and a detached bungalow offers extra luxury. In addition to the swimming pool, and sun terrace, there is direct access to the Caribbean Sea with mini dock, patio and a small beach. In less than a minute you can be snorkelling on the house reef in the company of tropical fish, corals, and even passing turtles. Café Sol serves breakfast and bites until late, and the sea-facing restaurant serves an exquisite fusion of Creole and international dishes. Drop in for a Lazy Sunday buffet from 1:00pm to 4:00pm with live music.

T: (767) 448 3288 E: info@evergreenhoteldominica.com www.evergreenhoteldominica.com

Pearl’s Cuisine Dining room at Sutton Place Hotel, Old Street. Take-out shop on Hanover Street, Roseau. Did you know Pearl’s Cuisine has a fabulous dining room right in the heart of Roseau? Located in the Sutton Place Hotel on Old Street, we serve high quality Creole lunches from Monday through Saturday. We also cater for birthday parties and wedding receptions. If it’s in season, it’s on your plate; be it fresh garden salad and vegetables, catch of the day, roast pork, beef, lamb or chicken. It’s all delicious. Our take-out shop on Hanover Street has been popular for years. Pick up a roti, a Creole lunch or a fresh fruit juice – there’s always plenty of choice. A Dominica treasure and tradition for over 25 years, and still with some of our original staff, Pearl’s Cuisine is where good taste matters as much as cost.

T: (767) 448 8707 Find us on Facebook 60

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Dive Dominica Castle Comfort, Roseau Dive Dominica is one of the nature island’s most trusted, best equipped and experienced operators. With five boats and a professionally trained team, we offer daily dives to all of the sites in the south (including night dives), whale and dolphin watching trips, guided snorkelling tours, and charters. Dominica’s reefs are some of the most dramatic and pristine in the region. Abyssal walls, drop-offs, volcanic pinnacles, giant barrel sponges, frogfish, seahorses, turtles and much more – all in a day’s work. The protected Soufriere Scotts Head Marine Reserve is our aquatic back garden and we would love to show you around. Our dive and boat crew are professionally qualified and our instructors offer a range of scuba courses; from entry level to advanced. Our boat dives are guided by divemasters who have intimate knowledge of the reefs and the creatures that live there, and who are geared up to ensure both your enjoyment and your safety. We also offer enriched air nitrox diving. While there are no guarantees when it comes to finding whales and dolphins, our team has an excellent sightings record. They are experienced and know Dominica’s waters well. If you have never tried snorkelling, or would simply prefer to be in the company of the people who know where all the best places are, then look no further. Our snorkelling tours are safe and great fun. Individuals, couples, families, dive societies, professional photographers and complete beginners are all welcome at Dive Dominica.

T: (767) 448 2188 E: dive@cwdom.dm www.divedominica.com www.castlecomfortdivelodge.com FB: divedominica Conscious Travel, Adventure & Discovery

WHALE WATCHING • BOAT CHARTERS • WEDDINGS & HONEYMOONS • WELLNESS • RESTAURANTS • HIKING & BIRD WATCHING • SCUBA DIVING

EXPERIENCE THE NATURE ISLAND WITH US

A name synonymous with excellence, style, comfort and adventure, The Armour Family extends a warm and experienced welcome to all Dominica travellers.

ANCHORAGE HOTEL, WHALE WATCH & DIVE CENTRE www.anchoragehotel.dm Whether Divers, Hikers, Nature & Wildlife enthusiast or Yachties, we have welcomed the intrepid traveller to our home for over 4 decades. We invite you to spend some time with us at Anchorage Hotel, Whale Watch & Dive Centre in any of our 32 en-suite rooms and suites of our family owned property. We are conveniently located just 5 minutes south of the city of Roseau and perfectly poised on the water’s edge. We will organize your Nature Island Experiences, pairing you with our local experts whom we have worked with for years, we will have you feeling like our personal house guest. Real relaxation is chilling by the pool or sinking down into our cosy sofas at our Poolside Bar & Lounge to savour a perfect rum punch or a delicious cocktail. You can dine on sumptuous Creole & International fusion cuisine either upstairs in our Terrace Restaurant or poolside both with an uninterrupted view of the calm Caribbean with spectacular sunsets. So come, spend some time at home with us.

PICARD BEACH COTTAGES www.picardbeachcottages.dm Exploring the north of Dominica? There’s absolutely no better place than Picard Beach Cottages, 2 time winner of Dominica’s Responsible Tourism Award. If you’re a Beach Baby interested in Watersports or the adventure seeker looking for some of the region’s best hiking, birdwatching or heritage experiences, location is key. So if you want to strip away the stress and totally relax within a secluded cottage colony nestled in tropical gardens, a nurturing space to rekindle your romance or ‘tie the knot’ or to just to kick off your hiking boots for a pair of fins and a mask & snorkel, we have you covered. Come, enjoy the privacy of your one bedroom self-contained hardwood eco-cottage directly on Dominica’s longest sandy beach.

While here we invite you to dine with us at Le Flambeau Restaurant & Beach Bar and experience Chef Isaac’s fusion cuisine of French & Creole dishes using the finest ingredients sourced from local farmers and suppliers. Current holder of the ‘People Favourite Island Chef Dominica 2015 Award’ Chef Isaac and his team serve up an international standard dining experience with delicious cocktails, stunning sunsets and views to the Cabrits National Park and passing yachts dotted across the Prince Rupert Bay.

HARMONY VILLA www.harmonyvilla.com A true haven in the Tropical Rainforest of the Nature Island. The artistically stylish and exclusive vacation Villa is a romantic and luxurious escape for couples, families and friends and ideally located with just the right touch of pampering for hikers en-route through the Heart of Dominica or as a private space for retreats and events. The home of local designer Carla Armour, Harmony Villa offers 4 en-suite bedrooms spread over 3 floors and multiple spots for relaxation including a ground floor studio, and the large wrap around veranda and 2 acres of tropical rainforest and floral gardens offers true Caribbean-style outdoor living. Harmony Villa is as very highly regarded for its personal touch as it is for its eclectic décor and architectural charm. Usually booked as an Exclusive Villa Rental, we offer our guest the options of amenities, such as the ‘Independent’, ‘Adventurer’, to ‘All-Inclusive’ tailored Packages. Some of our guests just require B&B accommodation which we accommodate whenever available. Bookings require 24 to 72 hours lead-time, depending on your requested services. Experience Dominica at Harmony Villa, a truly unique and peaceful home away from home.

Article Title or Dominica Section Title? We love the nature island, we know it well, and we would love to share it with you. So come, experience with us.63

From The Depths Marine biologist and photographer Arun Madisetti meets Dominica’s largest visitors Eight kilometres apart off the coast of Dominica two sperm whales, sisters within a matrilineal group, synchronise their echolocation clicks to determine their position. Then, for the next 45 to 50 minutes they will descend to depths of up to 1,200 meters to feed on squid. This dive, one of many these two whales will make in a 24 hour period, is almost balletic, for after feeding, and though separated by distance, they will rise to the surface together.

Proximity to deep water trenches and ideal feeding habitats make Dominica the whale watching capital of the Caribbean, where some 14 species of marine mammal can be seen in the waters off the west coast throughout the year. Dominica’s resident sperm whale pods are the most studied in the world and, every year they give up new discoveries to researchers. We now know that each pod has a distinctive ‘coda’, or series of clicks, which identifies them as being 64

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part of the group; it is also now known that whales have an identifying click that only they make, effectively identifying themselves as individuals. Whales from other groups make different codas and have on a global basis been found to have different ‘dialects’. Sperm whales are very sociable and, when not travelling or feeding, they spend time in close physical contact with each other. This takes the form of rubbing their bodies together which helps

Sperm whales are very sociable and, when not travelling or feeding, they spend time in close physical contact with each other. ÂŠ (AM)

From The Depths

Proximity to deep water trenches and ideal feeding habitats make Dominica the whale watching capital of the Caribbean.

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The magnificent sight of a sperm whale breaching off the west coast of Dominica. ÂŠ (AM)

From The Depths

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to establish closer social ties as well as to remove dead skin which whales shed in sheets. Calves are born every four to eight years, making them the slowest reproducing mammal. Females remain within the pod for their whole life, which can be up to 60 years while males remain with the pod for 12 to 14 years and then leave to become solitary global wanderers. Males are up to three times larger than females. A large bull sperm whale can be over 21 meters in length; by comparison the average female is 10 to 12 meters. Despite their size and (to us) imposing physical presence, sperm whales are actually very shy and somewhat skittish creatures. Their numbers are slowly increasing, having been decimated to fuel the wheels of the industrial revolution and despite still being killed for food. They have no predators other than humans and two species of whales; orcas and pilot whales, which will target and kill calves.

Despite their size and imposing physical presence, sperm whales are actually very shy creatures. ÂŠ (AM)

Dominica is the most reliable place on earth to spend an afternoon in the company of the largest toothed creature on the planet and the largest brain in the animal kingdom. Being in the water with whales is an awe inspiring feeling. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a magical experience being alongside such large, powerful yet shy and gentle creatures. Sometimes I forget Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m holding a camera with a job to do and I just hang in the water metaphorically open-mouthed. From The Depths

East Carib Dive Salisbury Beach With 15 years of Dominica diving experience and the only French/German dive centre on the island, we offer daily two-tank boat dives to the awesome reefs of the west coast. No crowds, just intimate and personalised diving; we regularly see frogfish, grouper, sea horses, rays, barracuda and much more. PADI instruction available. Our French chef serves great tasting authentic Creole lunches daily, and we also offer budget accommodation to independent dive travellers. T: (767) 449 6575 / 612 0028 E: eastcaribdive@gmail.com www.dominicadiving.com

ALDive Loubiere Billy Lawrence is one of Dominicaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most experienced scuba diving instructors. He and his PADI, NAUI and DAN certified team specialise in personalised excursions to lots of awesome Dominica dive sites. Beginner to advanced instruction, specialty dives (enriched air, wreck, and others), and gear rentals are all available. A small family business, catering to all your aquatic needs, ALDive also offers whale watching trips. T: (767) 440 3483 / 275 3483 E: aldive@aldive.com www.aldive.com FB: aldivedominica

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The Tamarind Tree Hotel & Restaurant Salisbury Centrally located on the Caribbean coast, The Tamarind Tree has 15 double rooms with en suite bathrooms, ceiling fans and porch. Superior rooms also have AC. Perched high on a cliff, our guests enjoy fabulous sea views while relaxing in the gardens, pool and Jacuzzi. Three new 2 bedroom self-catering cottages are ideal for independent travellers and families. Each is bright and airy with en suite bathrooms, living area, kitchen and veranda deck. Hotel and cottage guests, as well as the public, enjoy a cooling breeze in our open-sided restaurant while dining on excellent local Creole and international fare. The local Kubuli beer is available on draft! The Tamarind Tree is welcoming, family-friendly with German and French also spoken. We are a proud member of Eco Tropical Resorts. T: (767) 449 7395 E: hotel@tamarindtreedominica.com www.tamarindtreedominica.com

Romance Café Beach Bar & Boutique Mero Enjoy the Mero Beach vibe to its fullest at Romance Café where French & West Indian cuisine is created from the natural land and sea gardens of Dominica using only the freshest and highest quality ingredients available. With a relaxed and friendly ambiance, Romance Café is a cool and convivial escape. Chill in the shade with a cold beer or a freshly squeezed juice, and why not join us for our annual Easter Sunday Reggae on the Beach Festival; L’Originale! With a sensitivity of love and respect for the environment, our mini boutique sells personally selected Dominican art, craft, t-shirts, natural products and literature. We are open from 10:00am Tue-Sun inclusive, we organise parties, and we are proud to be wheelchair friendly. French and German spoken.

T: (767) 449 7922 FB: Romance Dominica Conscious Travel, Adventure & Discovery

Fighting Back On the brink of extinction for a decade, Dominicaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous amphibian, the mountain chicken, survives by a precarious thread. But protection and research are beginning to suggest there may be a faint glimmer of hope.

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JENNY SPENCER asks me to step into a bath of disinfectant when I enter. “Just to be on the safe side,” she says. “So you don’t bring any of the disease in here with you.” I do as I am asked and step into the shallow purplecoloured liquid and look around. The small building contains several enclosed pens, each sealed by plastic sheeting and mesh, and with doors that are bolted shut. It’s humid inside, and there’s a faint aroma I can’t place. I suddenly feel inexplicably anxious. The disease Jenny is referring to is chytridiomycosis, also known as amphibian chytrid fungus. There are about 1,000 species of chytrid fungus that live in water or moist environments around the world and, in 1999, a new species was identified called Batrachochytrium dendrobatidis, or Bd for short, and it has infected amphibians around the globe, many of which develop chytridiomycosis and very quickly die. Here, on this island, it has almost entirely wiped out the Leptodactyllus fallax, known by Dominicans as the crapaud or the mountain chicken. Jenny works for the Zoological Society of London and her aim is simple: to save the mountain chicken from extinction; for Dominica and nearby Montserrat are the only places on earth where mountain chickens live in the wild. “It’s hard to know for certain what the island population is now, but based on how few we find during our field work, we’re probably talking about less than a hundred. But you never know. We have just five in here right now; three males and two females. We had more, but the disease got in a while back.” Jenny used to work in the reptile house at Bristol Zoo in the UK, followed by a stint at the Amsterdam Zoo. This is her third trip to Dominica. She came in 2011, 2012 and 2014 for roughly six months at a time. “Amphibians are my passion,” she smiles. “I even have a room full of frogs in my home in Amsterdam. Fighting Back

If you hear a mountain chicken calling at night, do your bit to help by calling the Forestry, Wildlife & Parks Division on (767) 266 5852 or emailing forestry@forestry.gov.dm

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I bet that sounds a bit weird,” she realises and laughs. But this passion has brought Jenny back to Dominica and she has grown very attached to the mountain chicken and the challenge of trying to save it.

natural burrows where they can find areas that are cool, dark and damp during the day. The females also get stressed after laying eggs when they don’t eat very much. Disease and contaminated water exploits this weakness, of course.”

The building we are in is in the Botanic Gardens in Roseau. It is a captive breeding facility, which is trying to maintain a back-up population of the mountain chicken on Dominica just in case they don’t survive at all in the wild. When the disease was first detected here and on Montserrat, several thousand frogs were evacuated to Europe in a dramatic attempt to avoid total extinction and specimens are now found in zoos across Europe.

So is Jenny fighting a losing battle to save the mountain chicken? “It can seem that way but there is hope,” she says forthrightly. “When the first outbreak of the disease hit the island at the turn of the millennia, and decimated the population, a few survived. They were strong, or ‘persistent’ enough, perhaps they even had some kind of natural resistance. We don’t know, and scientists are studying this phenomena with interest. But what we are discovering is that the few mountain chickens we have been finding in the wild in Dominica recently show little or no sign of falling sick from the disease. This is encouraging of course and we hope this means that the small population that has survived is now passing on some kind of resistance or immunity to their offspring. But it’s a very fragile situation and much is still unknown.”

Food for the five frogs is also bred here; and plastic bins are alive with an assortment of crickets and forest cockroaches which she enjoys showing me. “The forest cockroaches are very pretty, look,” she says, reaching in and pulling one out. “And the Jamaican crickets are my particular favourites. Now I really do sound weird, don’t I?” While the disease is everywhere, it doesn’t harm every amphibian it touches. The tree frogs that live here on Dominica have the disease too, yet they don’t get sick from it for reasons scientists don’t yet understand. But they do pass it on, and that is a major concern. “And there are so many tree frogs,” she says. “So it’s completely impossible to control the spread of the disease to more vulnerable species such as the mountain chicken.” Red and peeling skin is the usual sign of a diseased frog. Because mountain chickens breathe and absorb liquids through their skin, they are very vulnerable to water-borne infection of any kind. The Bd species of chytrid fungus that causes chytridiomycosis (mycosis = a disease caused by a fungus) makes the skin very thick and so the transfer of air, water and minerals becomes impossible. The heart stops beating and the animal dies. “Rivers and streams that may have traces of pesticides and other farming chemicals are potentially another big problem for them,” Jenny explains. “And they get stressed easily. The dry season stresses them and so they try to hide in deep

Jenny goes out on night-time field trips every week to specific locations where small mountain chicken populations are still living in the wild. If she finds them, she gives them a health check, records their details and then releases them. “The field trip locations are a secret,” she smiles. “But if you promise not to tell anyone where they are, you can come along if you like.” A couple of weeks later I’m in a pick-up truck with Jenny and two colleagues from the Forestry, Wildlife & Parks Division, Ronnie and Sylvester. As our destination is a secret I’m half expecting to be blindfolded or have a bag pulled over my head but I am, thankfully, spared the indignity. It’s a clear night and the dry season has made the western margins of the island as crispy and flammable as tinder. Not an especially good combination for discovering creatures that like damp places. “They tend to move out of the forest down towards water sources when the weather is like this,” Jenny explains. “And that’s where we’ve been finding them recently. Down by the rivers. As soon as it starts raining again they’ll stop making this migration as often and stay up in the forest instead.” Fighting Back

The locations of these night-time field trips is kept secret because people still hunt the frog for food, despite a ban and despite it almost becoming extinct. Not too long ago, the mountain chicken was Dominica’s national dish. It seems some people still have a taste for it. We arrive and check equipment and flashlights. There is no moon and the night sky is full of stars. The forest is still and silent. To our right is a small river. Jenny tells me that during the last few years over twenty different frogs have been sighted and recorded here. “It’s a real shame it isn’t raining,” she whispers as we make our way through the darkness. It isn’t a sentiment I especially share until she explains that rain would probably make the frogs call out and thus make them easier to find. Instead we have to rely on ‘eye-shine’, the reflection of the frogs’ eyes in the beams of our flashlights. It isn’t long before Jenny spots something. “Eye-shine,” she says. “Over there in the woods. See it?” My eyes strain in their sockets as I search the darkness trying to see what she sees. I’m embarrassed, for I can see nothing at all. “I think it’s probably just a lizard in any case,” she says, sympathetically, and indeed it turned out to be just that. A little later, after further searching, we hear a splashing in the river. It’s Ronnie. He’s discovered a frog but it has eluded him and we find him chasing around in the water trying to find it again. Reluctantly he gives up and we all continue up river in the darkness. Jenny explains that whenever they find and catch a frog they check to see if it is one that they have seen before – each receives a digital identification chip – and then they measure and weigh it, look for any sign of the disease and, if it is a new one, they take identifying photographs. Each frog has slightly different skin markings. “There,” Jenny says, stopping in her tracks. “A frog. See it?” 76

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This time I do. It’s a large female mountain chicken, sitting on top of a dry palm frond by the margins of the river, looking away from us into the water. Slowly and as silently as he can through the dry and crispy bush, Ronnie creeps up behind it until it is within reach. We all hold our breaths and daren’t move or make a sound. He flicks out an arm and grabs the frog before it has a chance to jump away. Jenny scans the frog for an identification chip. It has one, so she checks it against her records. “This is Courtney Love,” she smiles. “We like to give them names.” Courtney Love seems rather subdued and gives Jenny cause for concern. She also has a few worrying marks on her skin. Jenny carefully swabs Courtney – the results will be processed back in London at a later date – and she measures and weighs her before we release her into the river. If Courtney has the disease, she would be the first case in this particular location. On our return journey we are keen to find the frog that eluded Ronnie earlier and he spots eye-shine coming from beneath another dry palm frond on the far river bank. As stealthily as possible he makes his way through the water towards it but, before he can get close enough, it leaps high into the air and dives into a deep pool. Now we all splash around, shining our flashlights into the water, until we eventually catch it. Also electronically tagged, but as yet with no name, this is a male frog that was first recorded in January 2014 when it weighed a mere 94 grams and was too small to determine gender. Now he weighs 310 grams; impressive and encouraging growth over just 18 months. He is lively and shows no sign of the disease. “You know, it’s a shame he doesn’t have a name yet,” Jenny grins. “I think I may have to give him yours.” The week after our field trip a mountain chicken study group from Montserrat came to Dominica to report on the status there. Incredibly they reported only two sightings in the wild in the whole of last year. This doesn’t mean that’s all there is, of course, but it is cause for concern.

Traveller Notes Contrary to popular belief, the mountain chicken is a frog, not a toad. There are no toads on Dominica. The most common frog found on Dominica is the tink frog (Eleutherodactylus martinicensis), also known as the tree frog, which is endemic to the Lesser Antilles though predominantly found on Dominica and Martinique. Further information on threatened amphibian species: www.amphibianark.org

Fighting Back

Riverstone Bar & Grill Bells Nestled on the banks of the Laurent River near the village of Bells, this is a beautiful, relaxing and peaceful escape. Sit in the covered restaurant or out on the open deck. Surrounded by lush rainforest, river and colourful tropical gardens in the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interior, Riverstone is an ideal place to drop in after exploring the Heart of Dominica, the Emerald Pool, Spanny Falls, Salton Falls or nearby organic farms. Open Wed-Sun; occasional live music on Sundays. T: (767) 449 3713 / 317 3663 FB: riverstone.dominica

Hiking Dominica Island-wide Hiking Services From touchdown to take off, Hiking Dominica is the solution to all your nature island trekking needs. Whether a half day hike up a mountain or a full day adventure to the Boiling Lake, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll guide you, provision you, drop you off, pick you up, whatever you need. We also specialise in planning and logistics for hiking the Waitukubuli National Trail. With years of hiking experience and extensive trail knowledge we are your one stop hiking shop. T: (767) 312 5459 E: HikingDominica@gmail.com www.hikingdominica.com

Conscious Travel, Adventure & Discovery

“The trials must have opened the planters’ eyes to the deep network that the Maroons had forged within the very confines of their unfreedom, thus confirming that marronage undermined the institution of slavery and would always pose a risk to it.” Bernard Wiltshire, Your Time Is Done Now

Unfreedom. Traces of Dominica’s Enslaved

I’m walking the Jacko Steps trail in a loop from the interior village of Bells and my mind is beset with the notion that runaway slaves (Maroons) once passed through here and that, before the arrival of the first French settlers in 1763, Africans who had escaped from estates on the neighbouring French islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe had lived here on Dominica in freedom for well over a hundred years. By mutual consent, Dominica had been left to the indigenous Kalinago by the French and the British, for its topography was considered far too wild and rugged to ever be economically viable. Yet inevitably, having run out of plantation space elsewhere, the Europeans did come, and from that moment on, life for Dominica’s people – both old and new - changed forever. 82

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Jacko’s Camp.

I wade across the fast running but shallow Layou River below the village and trek up a wide valley to the simple wooden home of my friends Eunice and Mal. Once caught up in the terrible injustices of the draconian 1974 Dread Act which made it legal to shoot and kill gatherings of dreadlocked people, Mal is a slight man who appears and disappears like an apparition from the past, and I would not be the first to note the similarities between the Dreads of today and the Maroons of the past. Eunice and Mal reject many of the trappings of the modern world and choose simple lives that are more in harmony with nature. It’s a pleasure to catch up with them over a mug of bush tea before heading off up a steep slope to the high forested plateau that is known as Jacko Flats. Hard to follow, the track is faint, overgrown and leaf strewn; the forest thick and still. Only Mal and Eunice take the time to clear the trail when they can, otherwise it feels abandoned and silent. We know that Jacko was born in Africa and survived the journey by slave ship across the Atlantic to the West Indies. In Dominica, he was sold to the Beaubois Estate (between Castle Comfort and Giraudel) in the 1760s but he escaped soon after. During his time on the run as a Maroon, he joined Chief Mabouya’s camp, then later became a Chief himself. His ‘Grand Camp’ was located here on this plateau, a natural fortification shaped by pyroclastic flow above the Layou River, and from here he directed skirmishes against nearby planter estates. Jacko was said to be the oldest of many

Maroon Chiefs and areas of the island’s interior still bear their names. In 1813 Major General George Robert Ainslie arrived and became Governor of Dominica. A violent, oppressive, perhaps even psychopathic man, his brutality against runaway slaves and those who helped them is captured in the public and military trial transcripts of Polly Pattullo’s Your Time Is Done Now. With scant regard for British slave laws (though many would argue the premise of slavery as a lawful activity in the first place) he set about ‘eradicating the evil’ of Dominica’s Maroons. On 12 July 1814, Chief Jacko was shot and killed by John LeVilloux in a bloody battle with the Loyal Dominica Rangers – a militia of ‘trusty’ slaves who were offered the reward of freedom in exchange for killing a Maroon Chief. According to testimony, Jacko had killed two Rangers, wounded a third and was preparing to fire on another when LeVilloux’s musket delivered a fatal blow to the head. Jacko had been a Maroon for ‘upwards of 40 years’. In April 1815 LeVilloux was granted his freedom for killing Jacko and another Chief, Moco. It is hard to imagine that battle, standing here now in the absolute stillness of the rainforest. I wander around, trying to picture the camp in my mind, and the subsequent violent events that took place here. Eventually I pick up the trail again and follow it across the plateau until the nature of this narrow escarpment becomes very evident with near vertical drops down to the river on either side. Unfreedom.Traces of Dominica’s Enslaved

At the end of the escarpment I arrive at the top of the now famous Jacko Steps. Carved into the cliff side by the Maroons of Jacko’s camp, the steps are steep and narrow, and enclosed on either side by rock and bush. They are quite a stretch for my short legs. The steps would have provided safe access to and escape from the fortified camp to the river and the lands beyond. I peer down and conclude that even with gunpowder and muskets, laying siege to Jacko’s camp via this route would surely have been tantamount to suicide. I begin my descent, scrambling slowly and carefully down each step. Fallen leaves, moss and the dampness of the forest make it slippery underfoot. I notice occasional iron loops embedded in the rock, now rusting. They are all that remains of an attempt to run a cable here by a land owner in the 1980s to make ascent and descent of the steps easier. I’m happy the cable is no longer here, for the steps should be tough. They were made that way.

Consider the numbers. In 1813 the total population of Dominica was 26,041. Of that number, 21,728 were enslaved. Free ‘persons of colour’ numbered 2,988 and only 1,325 were white European planters and their families; such people lived in constant fear of the Maroons and the influence they could have on the slave population. The potential for a slave revolt would have been one of the main reasons that the abominable behaviour of Governor Ainslie was welcomed by the island’s minority planter group.

Jacko’s camp and many others were all part of a wide-ranging underground network of communication and trade between runaways and estate slaves all around the island. Just above the village of Soufriere in the south west, Professor Mark Hauser of Northwestern University, Illinois, has been leading a team of archaeologists in the study of an estate slave village on the slopes of

The river is closer; now I can hear and see it. The winding steps above me seem to have disappeared, hidden within the cliff and behind the dense foliage like the Maroons themselves. I find myself at the bottom and wade through a shallow tributary to the Layou River. The cliffs and the forest rise tall around me and the river flows over rapids and around immense boulders, unencumbered by history or

Extract from a letter from Governor Ainslie to Lord Bathurst on 21 March 1814 where he defends his actions.

...People ignorant of the state of Dominica, erroneously believe, that the runaways are slaves, who to avoid punishment for some venial or menial offence, from a harsh matter, run to the woods for a short time and then return to their duty, a few unfortunate, persecuted, isolated beings, without concert, whose only inheritance is slavery whose condition demands our pity... No misapprehensions, Sir, can be greater. They are a Banditti under government of a chief, sub chiefs and captains, inhabiting a country difficult beyond description, having regular outposts or camps as they are called, in advance of the Grand cantonment where the chief resides, with provision grounds cleared for miles; this “imperium in imperio” [a state within a state] has been established above 30 years.

From Your Time Is Done Now, Papillote Press 2015

Morne Patates. Although the primary aim of the work was to study the impact of slaves and slavery on Dominica’s environment, the team discovered evidence of trade and communication between slaves of neighbouring estates and possibly also with Maroons. The court transcripts of Pattullo’s book support this. In their own words, estate slaves and captured Maroons tell how they were in regular communication and that the Maroons traded wah-wah (a wild forest yam) for other food items, weapons, gunpowder and ammunition.

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Hidden waterfall on the Layou River. ÂŠ (CS)

NORTH REGION • TO STAY Layou River.

Extract from The Trial Of Joe From Your Time Is Done Now, Papillote Press 2015

Joe was an estate slave charged with harbouring and supplying runaways. The court crossexamines Marie-Jeanne, a witness. COURT: Did you ever see the runaways in Joe’s house? MARIE-JEANNE: Yes I cook their victuals and held conversation COURT: What runaways did you ever see in Joe’s house? MARIE-JEANNE: I do not know them. COURT: What number have you seen? MARIE-JEANNE: Great many. They came every Friday. time. The dry season has ended and the rains have returned causing the river to rise and pools to fill. On occasion it is waist deep but for most of the time it only reaches my knees. Hidden within a tall, conical cavern is a waterfall. I step inside and take a shower. Standing within the confines of the rock, I look out for Rangers or runaways passing this way. The day is bright and sunny, with little chance of rain. Save for the music of the river, a kingfisher perched on an overhanging branch, and the haunting song of a distant mountain whistler, I feel alone. It is just me, and the ghosts of all those souls who came this way before.

COURT: Did you ever see Joe give them salt fish?

Extracts from Maroon trials and correspondence comes from Your Time Is Done Now. Slavery, Resistance and Defeat: the Maroon Trials of Dominica (1813-1814), compiled and edited by Polly Pattullo. Published by Papillote Press, 2015.

COURT: What do the runaways give Joe in return for these things?

Jacko’s Camp illustration by Lennox Honychurch, reproduced with permission from his book Negre Mawon, The Fighting Maroons Of Dominica. Published by Island Heritage Initiatives, 2014.

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MARIE-JEANNE: I have seen him give herring and tobacco and salt with my own eyes. COURT: Do you know how Joe got these articles? MARIE-JEANNE: Joe leaves the runaways at his house, comes to town, buys the provisions and goes up.

MARIE-JEANNE: Wahwahs, large panniers of them. Joe was sentenced to be hanged in the market place in Roseau. His head was cut off and put on a stake, his body burned.

TO STAY •

NORTH REGION Morne Neg Mawon from the Jacko Steps Trail.

Governor Ainslie’s Fourth Maroon Proclamation on 25 February 1814 From Your Time Is Done Now, Papillote Press 2015

Whereas the camps of Jacko, Noel, Macho, Apollo, Diano and Sambo in the Layou district and those of the Elephant, and six others in the quarter of Couliabonne [Giraudel] and on the River Claire have been utterly destroyed, the Chief Elephant hanged and his head stuck up in Roseau and the Dominica Rangers stationed permanently in the woods for the purpose of harassing and pursuing to death such runaways as still keep out. Willing, however, to show mercy to those whom ignorance of my intention prevents returning to their masters, I, by this my proclamation, do declare that I will fully pardon all those who surrender themselves either to the commissioners of parishes, to their masters, or who appear at Government House Roseau before Monday the 21st day of March with the exception of the chief of the camp, and such as have committed murder and I do hereby offer besides a free pardon, 20 Joes reward to any runaway or runaways for every chief they bring to me and three Joes for each murderer; and thereby declare to the Maroons who are still in the woods that the Rangers have orders to take no prisoners but to put to death men, women, and children without exception. Unfreedom.Traces ArticleofTitle Dominica’s or Section Enslaved Title?

Storage Pits.

According to Professor Mark Hauser and his team, Upper Soufriere estate would seem to have begun life as a simple French-owned farm and then at some point in time the small farm dwelling would have been knocked down and a fairly large plantation house built in its place. We are standing on the slopes of Morne Patates between Soufriere and Galion. Mark explains the probable layout of the house from the stone ruins and what he believes to be the glacee (drying area, probably for coffee) beyond. Nearby are the remains of a small boiling house where sugarcane would have been processed. This area is called La Cou, which is also the name often given to the social area of a French plantation estate.

Upper Soufriere Estate Archaeological Study

Mark’s main interest lies elsewhere, however, and it is something that has taken several years of searching to find; the site of the estate’s slave village. Each estate would have had a village where the slaves lived and within that village there would have been wooden houses and possibly small gardens where slaves grew food. Provision grounds, usually located beyond the village, is where slaves would have grown food in greater quantities, often for sale on the Sunday market in Roseau. The Sunday market and the roads to it were also where recaptured and convicted maroons were hanged, decapitated and gibbeted, so that a very visible message was communicated to anyone thinking of either escaping or assisting runaways.

Excavations were made possible by the permission and assistance of George Bleu, Christina Garner, John Henderson, and Simon & Wendy Walsh. Artefacts depicted in this article were excavated courtesy of Christiana Garner. They are housed at the Archaeological Storage Facility at Cabrits National Park.

The location of this particular slave village, when Mark eventually found it, was a surprise. Often they were located below the main estate house and also ‘downwind’. This village was above the house and ‘upwind’, at first making him question whether the two were actually related at all. But he is satisfied that he and his team have indeed

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Left to Right: Clay Pipe Fragments Gaming Discs.

discovered the Upper Soufriere estate slave village and when we arrive they are busy excavating parts of the site. The discoveries have been interesting. Traces of post holes are determined by both colour and constitution of the soil and, once they find them, the team are able to compile a map of these holes. From this, houses emerge and then part of a village. For the lay person it is a challenge to look at holes in the ground and see them as anything more than that, but each member of the team is an expert in a particular field and, collectively, they have lots of experience and knowledge to draw upon when they begin reasoning - attempting to draw tentative conclusions from their finds. And so when one group of holes appears that looks slightly different to those already identified as post holes, there is a noticeable stir amongst the team. So far, so-called ‘storage pits’ have not been discovered in Caribbean estate slave villages, so this would be an important find. From those discovered in slave villages of North America, it is known that storage pits were holes dug into the ground, often beneath the floor boards of houses. They were used as hideaways for stashing personal items and food to be saved for a later date. Sarah Oas, a paleobotanical specialist, carefully sifts through the soil taken from these potential storage pits to look for anything interesting and, to her delight, she finds charred corn kernels. ‘Regular organic matter such as food simply decomposes over time,” she explains. “All that is usually left are bones, often from fish. Food that has been burned tends to survive. Here we have charred corn kernels which suggests two things: firstly that some kind of burning event took place here; I’d venture it was accidental given this pit

is not an earth oven. Secondly it suggests that corn was eaten by the slaves who lived here. This is exciting for someone in my field because the next question I ask is, was it grown here too? This would be a fairly special discovery for this part of the world.” Sarah believes she has discovered the location of the provision grounds of the slave village. Fairly wild, rock-strewn and abandoned, the area is dotted with some fifty marker flags where small test holes have been dug. A larger hole she has excavated has made her quite excited. “There are no stones in this hole which is typical of areas that have been farmed, where soil has been turned over and stones removed. We take soil samples from excavations like this and sift them. Then we put them under a microscope to see if we can find anything interesting. What I’d really like to find here are corn seeds. That would suggest planting took place.” Finding corn seeds would help to paint a small detail of a much larger picture about slave life in this village. Other discoveries have led Mark and the team to suggest that there was a good deal of interaction between the slaves of this estate and those of others nearby, and that there may well have been connections with Maroons. Gun flints may suggest trade exchanges with runaways and so-called gaming discs made from the same ceramics found elsewhere would indicate connections to other estates, even with Martinique. Ceramic fragments have been discovered here in abundance along with pieces of clay pipes and fixing nails. Mark’s study of the Upper Soufriere estate continues into 2016. Unfreedom.Traces of Dominica’s Enslaved

Jungle Trekking Adventures & Safaris (JTAS) Experiences Caribbean Discover the unknown Dominica with Michael Eugene, an experienced hiking guide and part of the original Waitukubuli National Trail team along the Boiling Lake, and the other trails criss-crossing the nature island. Transportation, provisioning, baggage handling, and expert island knowledge are all part of our adventure packages. Our Jungle Trekking trips are enjoyable, safe and cater for all levels of abilities and experience. T: (767) 440 5827 / 616 5827 E: jtasexperience@gmail.com www.experiencescaribbean.com FB: JungleTrekkingAdventures

Cooking Caribbean, Rum & Nature Experiences Caribbean

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Welcome to our authentic Cooking Caribbean experience at our family home near Giraudel. Enjoy our colourful stories served with a helping or two of herb infused local rum. Learn how we use fresh produce in Caribbean cuisine, then prepare a meal in our purpose-built kitchen set amid lush tropical gardens. Cooking Caribbean is a food and family lifestyle experience, and is unique, sassy, and great tasting. T: (767) 440 5827 / 616 5827 E: jtasexperience@gmail.com www.experiencescaribbean.com FB: CookingCaribbean

“A horrific account of unjust justice” Two hundred years ago, when the Maroons of Dominica, who had been living free in the forests, were captured by the British they were tried by courts martial. With an introduction by Dominica’s former attorney-general Bernard Wiltshire, Your Time Is Done Now, the latest title from Papillote Press, documents the horror of those trials in a courtroom drama from the days of slavery. (EC$40/£9.99) Read our other titles - by Dominicans and from Dominica: children’s picture books, short stories, social history, memoir, poetry and more. facebook.com/papillotepress

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@papillotepress

“The small

and invaluable Papillote Press ”

Papillote Press 23 Rozel Road London SW4 0EY United Kingdom and Trafalgar, Dominica www.papillotepress.co.uk

Hide-Out Cottage Geneva, Grand Bay Nestled alongside the Geneva River in the Grand Bay region, Hide-Out Cottage is a very authentic, peaceful and comfortable self-catering experience for travellers looking to take a break from the world and enjoy nature. The wooden cottage has two bedrooms, a kitchen, living and dining area, bathroom and shower, and a wrap-around covered terrace. It is surrounded by flower and herb gardens, coconut palms and a wide variety of fruit trees; and the river is just a few steps away. Rastafarian owners, Rahel and Octave, can cook ital food for you on request, and Octave is a very experienced hiking guide. Guests are welcome to share the fruits of the garden. Hide-Out is a genuine getting-back-to-nature experience in the company of friendly and knowledgeable hosts. French and German also spoken. T: (767) 446 4642 / 277 8750 / 615 3934 E: seedatriva@yahoo.com www.hideout.ch Find us on Facebook

Slow Corner Restaurant & Bar Soufriere Located in the pretty fishing village of Soufriere, within walking distance of the volcanic Bubble Beach and the iconic 19th century Roman Catholic Church of St Mark, Slow Corner is one of the most popular eateries in the south west. Open every day except Tuesday, you’ll find our restaurant is patronised by both locals and visitors enjoying a fresh fusion of delicious Creole and international fare – everything from burgers and fries to haute Caribbean cuisine – whatever your fancy. Seafood is always a specialty but everything tastes good here. Friendly and welcoming, Slow Corner is great value and ideally placed for lunch and dinner when exploring the natural attractions of the south. No reservations necessary. Ask about our Soufriere village self-catering apartments.

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La Bou Cottage Soufriere Set in an acre of private gardens, La Bou Cottage is one of Dominica’s most uniquely designed and original places to stay. Truly an artistic creation, there is nothing else like it. La Bou is also extremely comfortable, peaceful and romantic. Honeymooning couples often head for the ‘birdhouse’, some prefer the delightful main cottage, and others head for a hammock in the garden pavilion. This private hideaway retreat can sleep up to 6 people and has all you need – fully equipped kitchen, indoor and outdoor dining, WiFi, restroom and shower. Located just 5 minutes from the quaint fishing village of Soufriere and 20 minutes from Roseau, La Bou Cottage is ideal for couples, honeymooners or a group of holiday-making friends. It’s the perfect place to relax, unwind and rediscover yourself. T: (767) 440 9059 | E: laboucottage@gmail.com www.laboucountrycottage.com Find us on Facebook

Rodney’s Wellness Retreat Kanawa Brooklyn, Soufriere In the colourful setting of CarRod`s Gardens, full of fruit trees and flowering plants, hang up a hammock, pitch your tent, or rent one of ours – all facilities are available – or perhaps you’d like to overnight in one of our peaceful 1 bedroom cottages embraced by four mountain peaks. Each has private bathroom, living room, kitchenette and WiFi. We offer guests and public al fresco dining and we serve traditional dishes using our home grown chemical free produce, freshly caught fish, chicken and pork. Hiking and sightseeing tours are not a problem – anything can be arranged for you. Pick whatever fruits you fancy while staying with us, and relax in the embrace of nature. We also have private rental apartments in the nearby village of Soufriere. T: (767) 440 8222 / 245 4725 / 235 3417 E: relax@rodneyswellness.com www.rodneyswellness.com FB: Rodneys Retreat Instagram: Wellness Dominica 92

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Banana Lama Eco Villa Newfoundland Estate, Rosalie Stylish and professionally designed, completely off-grid with solar panels and its own spring, Banana Lama is a fully self-sustainable modern riverside villa and cottage that will perfectly suit anyone seeking an escape to the tranquillity and beauty of unspoiled natural surroundings. The fully self-contained wooden cottage comfortably sleeps three and is a short garden walk to the gorgeous pools of the Cacoa River. The open-plan villa has three private suites with king-sized beds, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a spacious living and dining area, fully-equipped kitchen and expansive covered deck. Attention to detail is evident throughout in the form of elegant decor, artfully created counters, and furniture crafted from local woods. Relaxed, comfortable, laid back and fun, yet at the same time exquisite and luxurious, the villa can be rented as a whole or by individual suite. WiFi, gym and bath tubs are all free to guests. Owners and hosts Andy and Melissa have sailed around the globe on super yachts, and the diverse world cuisine that can be prepared for you is a reflection of their voyages. Many of the ingredients come from their own organic vegetable garden. All are fresh and delicious. Visiting mega yacht crews and charter boat guests are especially welcome for lunches, dinners and stay-overs. Just call ahead. Set within three acres of private gardens, forest and riverside land, Banana Lama Eco Villa is located close to the turtle nesting sites at Rosalie and Bout Sable Bay and the waterfalls of the south east. T: (767) 446 1183 E: bananalamaecovilla@mailbox.as www.bananalamaecovilla.com Find us on Facebook

Conscious Travel, Adventure & Discovery

PAT AT ART The mosaic art of

Patricia Charpentier

When her daughter was born in 1991, Patricia had to figure out how to earn a living to support them both. At the time she was living in Guadeloupe, having recently arrived from southern France. Self taught, and after lots of trial and error, friends began to purchase her ceramic mosaics, and in 1998 she held her first exhibition in Martinique. When her daughter went off to university in 2007, Patricia sought a new challenge and came to live in Dominica. She has created many beautiful mosaic artworks since then, inspired by the works of Hugo Pratt, Titouan Lamazou and Milo Manara, as well as her new natural surroundings. She has also created mosaic bathroom installations, and the Waitukubuli sign and the roundabout feature at Pont Casse. Patricia offers very popular and often quite therapeutic ceramic mosaic classes where her students regularly discover a creative side they didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know they had. Classes are open to all; no experience is necessary. For Dominica travellers this is a very nice way to learn something new in relaxed and comfortable natural surroundings (sheltered from the sun and the rain), as well as to take home an extremely unique self-made souvenir from the island. And while you are here, be sure to try some of Patriciaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fabulous cooking and homemade breads.

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T: (767) 277 9585 E: patdominica@gmail.com FB: Patricia Charpentier

Conscious Travel, Adventure & Discovery

A Kalinago Conversation Could a new wave of

Kalinago Consciousness

revive an ancient warrior spirit?

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Dominica’s Kalinago are thought to be the descendants of a tribe of Arawakan language speaking Amerindians who set off from the north eastern coast of the South American continent and migrated northwards up the Lesser Antilles island chain. They were skilled fishermen, hunters and pottery makers. A combination of impenetrable forest and mountain terrain, together with the threat of possible attack, resulted in British and French colonists agreeing to leave Dominica to the Kalinago rather than risk confrontation. Passing ships traded with them, but the island the Kalinago called Wai’tukubuli was, for the time being, all theirs. This didn’t last, and in 1763 plantation land had become such a valuable commodity in the region that European expansion to Dominica was inevitable. As a consequence the Kalinago were forced into lands in the north east of Dominica that were too rugged and remote for Europeans to exploit. They were never enslaved, instead they were largely ignored, while their numbers dwindled. In 1903 Crown Colony Administrator Hesketh Bell set aside land for the remaining Kalinago. It was called the Carib Reserve. Had this not

happened, the Kalinago would probably not have survived on Dominica. Today this land is known as the Kalinago Territory and it is administered by the Kalinago Council. Kalinago tradition now predominantly manifests itself in the island’s tourism industry, where women make basket wares from the larouma (Ischosiphon arouma), a tall forest and river reed. Somewhat neglected, the Kalinago Territory looks and feels like one of the poorest areas of the island, yet it may be one of the richest in ancestral spirit. I am in Crayfish River, in conversation with Cozier Frederick (Kalinago name Chouboutouiba), a post graduate student of Kalinago history at the University of the West Indies, and a Development Officer in the Ministry of Kalinago Affairs. Also with us is Louis Patrick Hill (Kalinago name Nichie Abo), a US Army Desert Storm veteran and former USVI Senator and graduate in public administration.

Left: Cozier Frederick (Chouboutouiba). Right: Kalinago basket weaver. A Kalinago Conversation

NICHIE ABO: I don’t think we’re talking about anything as dramatic as turning history on its head, but we do want to correct it, and we want to have what is written about us come from our perspective. It’s about reclaiming our identity from others. CHOUBOUTOUIBA: For example we choose to have Kalinago names. It’s about making the point that it’s something that isn’t linked with European culture or with African culture. It’s Kalinago, it has come from us and it’s what we choose to call ourselves. PAUL: What does it mean to be Kalinago? CHOUBOUTOUIBA: That’s a very profound question because even in our situation here, you can tell by looking at us that we are both mixed race; half African and half Kalinago. But we choose to be Kalinago. We are a neglected minority. We used to occupy the whole region but our numbers are now down to about three thousand in this little space. And so my affinity is more with this minority culture, my Kalinago rather than my African half; because we are so endangered. But there’s more to being Kalinago than skin colour or how you look. It’s about feeling, philosophy, tradition and so on. Determining our identity is one of many challenges we face. PAUL: Does your mixed race cause you any problems with other Kalinago? CHOUBOUTOUIBA: Yes, of course. But it’s not important. There are people who may well be one hundred percent Kalinago in terms of their genetic heritage but they may not be as Kalinago as me in their mind; in terms of knowing who they really are. I believe that’s more important. PAUL: You talk about the correction of history. Can you tell me what you mean by that? 98

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CHOUBOUTOUIBA: Every conqueror writes a story. More specifically every conqueror writes his story. So when the Europeans came to the Caribbean – what I like to call the Kalinago Island Civilisation – they wrote what they wanted and there was never anyone around to stand up and say ‘hold on, this is not what really happened here’. The records of the conquerors always stand up over time as the truth. So we have to ask how accurate is this interpretation of history? We have the right to doubt and challenge such a one-sided version of things. NICHIE ABO: I believe the historians who wrote these things were in part trying to justify the actions they took; killing and eradicating populations of people. We ought to reexamine what they wrote. Where is it reflected or emphasised that Columbus and subsequent Europeans came here and slaughtered millions of people? He’s considered a pioneer. A hero. So when we talk about correcting history, this bias is one of the things we mean. CHOUBOUTOUIBA: And there’s the whole issue of conquest in terms of state and the Church. Presumably someone at some time said ‘go out there and if you come across anyone who does not accept Christianity, wipe them out’. Because that’s what they did. NICHIE ABO: I have not heard the Catholic Church come out in any substantive way, at the level of the Vatican, and say that their actions during the colonial era and the killing of people because they would not submit to their religion, were wrong. Remember, these people arrived with a Bible in one hand and a sword in the other. I have not heard the Vatican apologise to indigenous people for these actions. So that’s another part of correcting history. The Church is a very big part of our community today, but most of our people don’t understand the role that it played in the near extermination of our race.

CHOUBOUTOUIBA: The Church was so systematic in getting rid of our language, our identity, our belief system. We are now so immersed in their thinking that most people have no idea that anything ever existed before all that. PAUL: This is obviously a very religious island and the Catholic Church is deeply entrenched here. So how do you overcome this as an obstacle, if indeed you see it that way, when it comes to selfdetermination and correcting your history? NICHIE ABO: We’re not angry with the Church and we don’t advocate a non-Christian life. I’m a Christian. But what I want the Church to do is to speak the truth. Take for instance the abuse of young children by priests. This has been a global issue for the Catholic Church and they have been forced to acknowledge it, to address all the people who have been affected by it, to correct it, and to bring some healing to that issue. We want the Church to do the same thing for the indigenous people of this country and of the wider Caribbean and South America. We want them to recognise and to say publicly that what they did was wrong. And that they want to help to heal those people. And there are some very specific, material ways they can do that. PAUL: Such as? NICHIE ABO: Such as opening up their historic records and making them available to us so we can have a better appreciation of our ancestry, and begin to study and re-examine things for ourselves. The Church must have an enormous amount of material that was collected throughout the colonial era by their historians and by their priests. And I would like to speculate that the Vatican may be sitting on a treasure of historical records that are applicable to our lives. If that is the case, we would like them to open those records to us, so that we can start to become more enlightened about who

we are, where we came from and what our true history is. PAUL: Indigenous people were slaughtered throughout this region, of course. The Taino (Amerindians in the Greater Antilles) were completely wiped out. Your argument must have been raised before now? NICHIE ABO: We don’t know if other tribes of Central or South America have raised this issue and, if they have, to what extent. But we want a global debate on it and we would be happy to take a lead. In every case where there has been mass killing or genocide of people, there has always been a movement to have the people who committed these atrocities held accountable. We have not seen that same movement as it relates to us. PAUL: So where do you begin? How do you start to make that kind of thing happen? NICHIE ABO: We try to provoke a reaction, to create some sort of consciousness and awareness about the Kalinago people of Dominica. We try to start a discussion about it. And then there is the whole issue of reparations, of course. CARICOM has established a task force to address reparations from former European colonisers, which we support and believe is a good thing, but we also view it from a different perspective. What about reparations for the indigenous people of the Caribbean? How is that being pursued differently? We were the first people here in the region, so all of the lands taken from us have ended up in the hands of people of African and Creole descent. CHOUBOUTOUIBA: So one could argue that people of African descent have already received some sort of reparations in the form of the land they now own. NICHIE ABO: Because the land originally belonged A Kalinago Conversation

to the Kalinago. CHOUBOUTOUIBA: And we have received nothing at all. There ought to be an open and honest discussion about the detail of it. NICHIE ABO: But for us it’s not a question of giving us money or our land back. And I don’t think money should be the basis for that discussion. Look at the word ‘reparation’. It should be used in the context of repair and there are many ways of repairing broken things. CHOUBOUTOUIBA: People could simply admit accountability, open up archives to us, return some of our historic artefacts, share information and research, help us with our cultural development. It would be a good start. NICHIE ABO: That’s the discussion we should be having now. The concept of reparations from a Kalinago standpoint has two very clear paths. First, we believe that current Caribbean governments have every opportunity to correct some of the wrongs that have been done to indigenous people by them, not by Europeans. The Kalinago Island Civilisation governments must examine that. The Government could pass laws that would empower us. That is one step. Secondly there’s the more complicated process of dealing with European governments, private institutions and of course the Church. CHOUBOUTOUIBA: And we have to look at qualifying what has been written about us. It’s only recently, since the late seventies, that there’s been any kind of talk about our own consciousness, or any conversation about the fact that we actually existed before 1493. Read a timeline in any social study or history text and it mentions Amerindians about three hundred years BC and so on, and then it goes straight to 1493 and Columbus when the timelines then follow European history. There is 100

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nothing about what happened before then. There are quite a few black African scholars now who have undertaken extensive study of slavery and where their people originated. We have to follow their lead and do the same thing for ourselves. Then we can put Kalinago into the classrooms and the history books in a fresh context. NICHIE ABO: What people of African descent are doing is a great example of what can be done when there’s a will and a means to do it. CHOUBOUTOUIBA: Consciousness of who we are is one of the keys to this. When any mention is made of Kalinago, even in our own schools by our own teachers, they talk about ‘the’ Kalinago and not ‘we’ Kalinago. There’s often a disconnect mentally and there’s not enough material to work from because so little is written and known. And so the result is that we don’t have any kind of consciousness in the same way African people are beginning to realise theirs. PAUL: So what research has been undertaken into pre-Columbian Kalinago history that you could draw upon now and be used as teaching material in your schools? CHOUBOUTOUIBA: Well there are a lot of archaeological and academic studies carried out in the region but it’s never really shared. The people doing them don’t seem to stop and think about how their discoveries can help us as a people. It’s purely academic and rarely comes back into the community where it is needed most. PAUL: And in terms of the Kalinago language itself; clearly much is lost and no-one really speaks more than a few words. Is there anything you can do to discover more than just the vocabulary that was recorded in Breton’s dictionary (Dictionnaire caraïbe-français by Father Raymond Breton, 1665)? How about existing or known languages or dialects from South America? Is Kalinago

vocabulary comparable with any of them? NICHIE ABO: One of the things we’d really like to do and are talking with the Government to help facilitate, is to get a couple of our language students to go to South America to be ‘embedded’ in an indigenous community there and to learn the language, come back and teach it in our schools. Language as we all know evolves over time but we believe that what is being spoken down there is definitely part of the family of languages that was also spoken here. All languages evolve and change over time and we’d like to pursue the argument that as part of a family of Arawakan, the tribal languages still spoken in some parts of South and Central America are close enough to also be part of our own Kalinago heritage. CHOUBOUTOUIBA: There’s plenty of archaeological evidence proving the movement of Amerindian people from the south so you have to revisit it all by stepping back in time. Our motherland is South America so that’s where we have to look for help in determining who we are. NICHIE ABO: I was once in Guyana on business and I met this guy who told me he was a Carib. I said, ‘Man, you from Dominica?’ And I realised my mistake (laughing). I think those people are our brothers and sisters. Personally I think the name Dominica should change to Waitukubuli. I think it would make a huge statement and also get over this ridiculous confusion with the Dominican Republic. The fact that the European name ‘Carib’ was changed to ‘Kalinago’ in our parliament was no accident; not something that came out of thin air. It was the result of active lobbying and participation in the political process. For us, it was a start. PAUL: Did anyone in the Territory resist the name change? NICHIE ABO: Yes. Including the current Chief

who actively opposed it saying we needed more time to talk about it. He suggested an alternative name, Kalina, which apparently is a name given to a South American tribal people said to be related to so-called ‘Island Caribs’. CHOUBOUTOUIBA: But we had been talking about the name change for a long time and to be honest, it’s simply another reason why we have to look into and re-examine our history; and have access to the kind of material we need to do this. But it was not simply the name that had to be changed. That was just the beginning. There now has to be economic and social change to accompany it. NICHIE ABO: Our tribe would have been decimated without the establishment of the Territory. But laws have to be updated to move with the times, and nothing has been done to update laws to deal with social services, health, education and economic circumstances within the Territory. The reservations in Florida enjoy laws that enhance economic opportunities for the indigenous people of those communities. For example, they have tax free benefits, both within and outside their reserve. This allows for a community to grow in a way that is economically viable. There are many things the government here could do to help the indigenous Kalinago and the laws that apply to us. Up until 1930 there was free movement and trade between our people and the people of Guadeloupe, Marie Galante, Martinique and so on. But this was stopped. We grew up eating French food! Now look at us. Our circumstances are worse because we can’t trade freely. Having the freedom of the sea is an inherent part of our culture and ancestry. CHOUBOUTOUIBA: The Caribbean leaders now talk about free movement of people. That’s the irony. We were always people who moved and traded freely. A Kalinago Conversation

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NICHIE ABO: The name doesn’t change our circumstance but what it does is establish a basis for rebuilding pride and self-esteem. It’s a foundation. People forget that indigenous people are a threatened species. Indigenous people and their knowledge is as threatened as the sisserou, but more emphasis is placed on a parrot than on a civilization. We need protection too. When you look at the Kalinago today it is really no different from the condition of poor people all around the world. The foundation of that condition is poverty, and that is an issue we must address. There is minimal conscious effort to deal with poverty in the Territory and all of the social ills that accompany it, so it is just accepted as something that is the norm; alcoholism, child abuse, children dropping out of high school, teen pregnancy and so on. One of the ways of doing this is to develop economic opportunities for our people. I’d like the government to follow the model of the US and Canada and make the Territory a duty and tax free zone. Specifically for indigenous people. We are disadvantaged and the communal status of the land is a major economic hindrance to us. It could be a reparations initiative that starts right here at home. But what I think is most important to us is internal. It is about our own selves. While we can be critical

and demand a sense of equity, we have to begin to raise our own level of consciousness, to find hope in our own humanity, to look back in time and feel a sense of pride for who our ancestors were, and to accept the responsibility for continuing that majestic, brave and courageous history that is ours. We have to accept that, we have to embrace it and we have to express it. If we can do that well, we would take a huge step towards solving some of the challenges that face us. CHOUBOUTOUIBA: We have been cultured to be dependent which is completely opposed to who we once were. If we used to be war-like, why are we now so timid? Through the development and spread of Kalinago consciousness we believe we can rediscover our true identity and re-establish our warrior spirit of courage and independence. Just five days after this conversation, Pope Francis, speaking to a gathering of Bolivian indigenous people, stated: “I say this to you with regret: many grave sins were committed against the native people of America in the name of God... I humbly ask forgiveness, not only for the offense of the Church herself, but also for crimes committed against the native peoples during the so-called conquest of America.”

Traveller Notes The Kalinago were master canoe builders, carving out vessels from single tree trunks, usually gommier (Dacryodes excelsa). Hot rocks and steam were used to stretch out the canoe with tree branches serving as props. The bordage along the top was also made from gommier and sealed using soft gommier sap mixed with volcanic sand to produce a tough, water-resistant sealant. Ribs, bow and rowlock pins were often made from white cedar. You can still see traditional canoe-building in St Cyr and Sineku as well as the Kalinago Barana Auté in Crayfish River.

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Basket ware is usually made from the larouma reed (Ischosiphon arouma) which was probably brought to the island by the indigenous people and planted as a crop. The Kalinago word for the reed was oualloman but it underwent a transition to French Creole and became l‘arouman. It is a tall reed which, after harvesting, is split and the pith removed. The strips of reed are laid out in the sun to dry and turn a reddish brown. Some reeds are dyed black by leaving them in dedicated mud pits, others are dyed red using the leaves of the bwa tan bush. Once a practical skill, basket weaving has now become an important source of income for many Kalinago families

Salybia Heritage and Restoration Project (SHARP) The hamlet of Salybia, also known as St. Marie, was at the heart of the Kalinago Territory long before the community’s formal establishment in 1903. The region was referred to as the ‘Carib Quarter’, consisting of a few scattered houses along the Salybia River. In actual fact the present day Kalinago Territory was previously referred to as Salybia by the Colonial Office and the wider populace, and this settlement was the nucleus for all administrative affairs and social gatherings. Still evident is the ruin of the old Salybia Catholic Church, the presbytery, the health centre and the old Salybia Primary School compound, a playing field and a sheltered bay that was used as a local trading point for sailors making the journey to the French islands, and a key location for the indigenous peoples’ subsistence fishing activities. On the southern bank of the river is a monument dedicated to the last Kalinago resistance effort in 1930 which attempted to reject the decree by the colonial authorities that the free movement of people and goods, which was a long standing tradition for the Kalinago people, was illegal. For a number of years St. Marie has been the final

By Chouboutouiba

resting place for many of our ancestors as it is the location of both a Catholic and a public cemetery, as well as a smaller section known as the ‘German Cemetery’. The Catholic Church also funded the construction of a new chapel. The Wai’tukubuli National Trail runs through historic St. Marie and it is still a residential area of around ten households. The Salybia Heritage And Restoration Project has several aims: to provide the community with a solution to the evident land degradation and slippage; to establish systematic conservation of the area’s flora and fauna; to undertake restorative works on the ruined church and school buildings; to create a campsite and heritage orchard; and to support and encourage alternative sustainable economic activities. This project matters to the entire indigenous community as well as the rest of Wai’tukubuli (Dominica) because it highlights the historic and cultural importance of the area to the indigenous Kalinago people. For more information email: salybia.heritage@gmail.com A Kalinago Conversation

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Aywasi Kalinago Retreat Kalinago Territory Located in the heart of the Kalinago Territory, along the Waitukubuli National Trail, adjacent to the Kalinago Barana Auté, the Aywasi Kalinago Retreat is nestled into the rugged, windswept Atlantic coastline. Enjoy the sounds of nature in our rustic wooden cottages, traditionally crafted and tastefully decorated with comfortable, modern amenities, or pitch tents or hammocks in one of our garden “ajoupas”. Rejuvenate your spirit in our enchanting massage and meditation spaces, savour our Kalinago-inspired Creole cuisine, and delight in island-wide adventures. Our culturally and environmentally sensitive development seeks to create economic opportunities and improve the quality of life for the Caribbean’s first peoples. We beckon writers, artists, romantic couples and active, adventurous and socially-responsible travellers. We invite you to enjoy our warm hospitality and an exceptional nature island experience. Mabrika! T: (767) 235 4455 E: info@aywasiretreat.com www.aywasiretreat.com

Kalinago Tours Crayfish River, Kalinago Territory Mabrika. Welcome. Kalinago Tours is your onestop-shop for exploring Dominica’s unique Kalinago Territory and beyond. Tell us where you’d like to go, what you’d like to do, and we can make it all happen for you. Just leave it to us. Ground transportation, guided tours, cultural visits, home stays and other accommodation arrangements – we can facilitate anything and everything. With indepth knowledge of Dominica’s Kalinago Territory, Kalinago Tours is uniquely positioned to offer a truly authentic experience. Meet our beautiful people, learn about Kalinago lifestyle and traditions, and explore the Territory’s many natural and cultural attractions. We offer special rates for schools, CARICOM Nationals and senior citizens. No-one knows Dominica’s Kalinago Territory quite like we do. Discover it with us.

T: (767) 317 0595 / 445 7979 E: kdangleben@gmail.com www.kalinagotours.org 104

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Citrus Creek Plantation Riverside Café & Lodge La Plaine Nestled alongside the Taberi River, within a 20 acre protected valley and within easy reach of natural attractions such as Sari Sari Falls, Wavine Cyrique, and Bout Sable Beach, Citrus Creek is ideally situated for exploring the east. There are no pretensions here and a relaxed and comfortable ambiance make you feel right at home. Eight wood and stone cottages and villas, part of a rental pool program, fit perfectly into the forest, garden and river environment and suit all budgets and tastes. Fresh breakfast ingredients are delivered daily to your door and airport transfers, tours and excursions can all be arranged for you. The Riverside Café is open daily to guests and visitors, serving lunches and snacks. Creole with a touch of France - the food is always fresh and delicious. T: (767) 446 1234 E: riverside@citruscreekplantation.com www.citruscreekplantation.com FB: citruscreekplantation

Zandoli Inn Stowe, Grand Bay Perched on a cliff side overlooking Grand Bay and the ocean, Zandoli Inn offers extremely comfortable yet relaxed accommodation to independent travellers seeking an authentic Dominica experience. Intimate and artistically designed, Zandoli’s five en suite bedrooms have private balconies with panoramic views. The restaurant serves high quality cuisine with a daily menu that is set according to what is fresh. Nestled between two fishing villages, seafood at Zandoli is always a great choice. With years of experience and in-depth knowledge of the south of the island, Zandoli is an ideal base from which to explore. Hikes and tours can be arranged for you and the coral reef at the foot of the gardens is excellent for snorkelling. Holiday-making friends can also rent out the whole inn as a private villa. T: (767) 446 3161 E: reserve.zandoli@yahoo.com www.zandoli.com Find us on Facebook Conscious Travel, Adventure & Discovery

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A Man Of The Earth Pomme’s home is on a high mountain ridge in the south of the island. His uncomplicated lifestyle and relationship with the natural environment challenge and redefine notions of development and modern ways of living. The hike up here had followed the first section of the Perdu Temps trail for an hour or so. Through showers and increasingly malevolent skies, I had crossed the Geneva and Pichelin rivers and turned up a spur off the main trail before it curved around to the east to skirt the northern margins of the Foundland volcano on its way to Jack Falls, the White River, Victoria and Delices. Pomme has lived up here for 38 years, and it’s quite a commute. As I hiked through the wild countryside I thought about people who live in cities, towns, even villages, and wondered what they would make of this. There was a rough road here once, fashioned from volcanic basalt rocks that only the hardiest of four-wheel drive vehicles could navigate, but all that has gone now. There are no electricity or telephone poles, no cable television, no water pipes, no Whatsapp®. There is just a narrow track running across rivers and streams, forever uphill through thick rainforest. An hour or more later, when I arrived at the top of the ridge, I was greeted by a large open plateau where cows, goats and horses were grazing. In the distance a simple wooden house with an outside kitchen was

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nestled between tall trees and flower gardens. A young boy stirred from a hammock beneath an old mango tree and waved. “When people ask me how long I have been here, the real answer is just one day,” said Pomme, exhaling and smiling through a cloud of blue smoke. “Because that’s how it feels here; waking up every morning and looking at my garden and the mountains all around. It feels as fresh and new as the first day I saw it. And that is how I live; and I rejoice in it.” We talked for a while and our conversation felt easy and natural. Pomme is an engaging man; his demeanour is relaxed and he makes you feel welcome and comfortable in no time at all. Wandering locks hang like tendrils from thinning hair atop a balding head. His beard, grey and slightly twisted partially masks an eternal smile; his eyes are bright, keen and sharp, and I sensed this is a man who observes much and misses little. I return a week or so later, this time not on the Sabbath, and am greeted as an old friend. His

The first time I met Pomme he was sitting on a roughly carved bench beneath a tarpaulin-covered cedar ajoupa, smoking, and poring over the biggest Bible I had ever seen. It was the Sabbath; Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d come on the wrong day for business, and now it was raining cats and dogs.

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wife appears from the kitchen bringing welcoming kisses and a cassava bowl of freshly baked coconut bread. Pomme has been working in his garden – there is always something to do - and he takes a break to show me around. Seemingly endless rows of herbs and produce stretch up the hill beyond his home. We wander through raised vegetable beds with long rows of cabbages, carrots and chives and on to his medicinal beds where he grows plants specifically for ailments. He describes a ‘paracetamol’ plant, even an ‘aspirin’ plant; he has beds of comfrey which he uses to make a poultice for sprains, and wormwood for indigestion. I learn that strawberry leaves are good for an upset stomach, and that mangosteen skins make a therapeutic drink. Pomme’s collection of herbal plants is impressive and there seems to be a remedy for just about every malady imaginable. “They sometimes bring tourists, agriculturalists and even people from American pharmaceutical companies up here for tours of my garden, to learn about the plants I have here, the natural medicines, and to see how it is possible to live a very natural and uncomplicated life,” he says. “And I think they are always surprised by what they experience. It’s very different to life back home. I think this is the essence of Dominica.” Pomme grows food to eat and to sell. He has many different varieties of yam and has even piped spring water from a mountain stream to create a natural dasheen swamp. His collection of local and exotic fruit trees is impressive; he has a passion for growing and trying out species that are new to him; he has Mediterranean figs, even English apple and chestnut trees. At the back of the garden, close to the tree line, is a charcoal pit where he creates fuel for cooking. Pomme draws my attention to a large bed of young soya plants. “I started growing soya fairly recently,” he says.

“When it is ripe I bag it and then make milk from it by boiling it and squeezing it through a muslin cloth. It tastes good. And if I add a bit of lime to it, it solidifies and I have tofu. I just love tofu.” I love it too and find myself in awe of what he, his wife and two children manage to do here. His knowledge came from his mother and grandmother, and he is passing it on to his own children. But he is concerned that many of the younger generation of Dominicans are not interested in this way of living, in the natural environment or learning about the plants and their uses. “To many young Dominicans today, farming has become quite a dirty word, and it is something that some consider beneath them. It seems people would rather eat from tins and fried chicken containers and call it development. I find the world is complicated and difficult to understand in that regard. Many people are fat, obese, but they still eat all that stuff. I think they must be addicted to it because why else would they do it? It didn’t used to be this way. People farmed, they worked hard and they fed themselves. But something happened, I don’t know what it was. Ever since Hurricane David in 1979 people changed their priorities. They gave up on their gardens and went to the shop instead. It was easier. More convenient. But I think it made people lazy. I have a simple mantra: I eat what I grow and I grow what I eat. That’s it. And if that’s not what people consider development, well, I’m not really interested.” We take a rest on a wooden bench and I look around at the beauty of Pomme’s garden, pasture, and home. I have seen quite a number of simple, self-sufficient homesteads in Dominica. All are impressive and reflect their owners’ yearning for a less complicated and more independent way of living. After 38 years on this high ridge, however, Pomme has achieved completeness and he wants for nothing. The modern world can catch up with him any time it wants; in the meantime he will continue to cultivate his garden as a genuine man of the earth.

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Nelly Stharre Nelly Stharre, singer, songwriter and friend, died tragically in August 2015. She will be sorely missed.

Ten years ago, when I saw Nelly Stharre on stage in Dominica for the first time, she sang songs that made the hair on the back of my neck stand on end. Dressed in a forest-green jacket, matching long skirt and black boots, she looked like a child of Che Guevara. Completely hooked, I rushed out the next day to buy her latest CD, Rain Jah. It was her second album, a collection of reggae that embraced Rastafarianism, challenged those who sought to “lick you with sticks and bricks and break your feelin’”, and, with ballads such as “Inside of Me”, offered insights into the artist’s innermost thoughts and sensitivities. Rain Jah followed her 1995 debut album Wake Up!, an ensemble of mostly zouk songs recorded in Guadeloupe, during a period of her life that still conjures up sad memories but which, she says, has made her stronger and brought her to where she is today. Soul Country, in 2004, was an album that suggested Nelly was on a musical journey, maturing as an artist, and not afraid to experiment. It is a fusion of cadence and reggae, and, though the sounds are collectively beautiful, it is the depth and richness of the lyrics that makes this piece of work such a success. “Problem”, for instance, is a no-holds-barred declaration of war on injustice through the medium of music (“Music is the weapons of the people with no guns and ammunition”) and the chilling “Leaders of the World” is an anthem of our time that simply demands your attention (“You’ve got the feed the people/that’s the only solution/children can’t get nutrition from wars and ammunition”). “I don’t really write happy songs,” she says with a smile. “But when I perform live I see joy on the faces of the audience as they get consciousness from my music. It’s a wonderful feeling.” When we were arranging the interview, Nelly asked me to take her hiking somewhere she had never been to before, “preferably somewhere green and with water”.

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“I can’t get through a day without being in water,” she says. “When I come home I take off in the afternoons and spend hours by the river. They send out rescue parties looking for me.” She was back in Dominica arranging a jazz concert, the latest show she was co-promoting for a charitable movement aimed at helping children in need: those

who find themselves either homeless, in trouble with the law, abused, or orphaned because of AIDS. She undertakes similar fund-raising work in Jamaica, where she has lived on and off for several years with her husband and three young children. Born in the year of Dominica’s notorious Dread Act (1974), Nelly Stharre picked up the nickname “Revolutionary Baby”. It is a title that seems to fit perfectly with both a rebellious adolescence and a philosophical adulthood. “I have always been a rebel,” she says. “At school I would stand up for the underdog or against something that I thought was wrong. I was always getting into trouble.” Nelly attended a strict Roman Catholic high school and found the attitudes oppressive. “The problem with questioning things and wanting to believe in something different was that people couldn’t accept it. If you didn’t conform, they thought there was something wrong with you. Maybe you were possessed. Maybe you needed medication. Maybe you should be put on a psychiatric ward.” Was her non-conformity a factor in her becoming such a dedicated Rastafarian? “You don’t become a Rasta. It is inside you,” she says. “It has always been there. You just have to connect with it. Everyone has it. I remember once writing that I thought Jesus was a bit of a Rasta, enduring everything he did. I got into lots of trouble for that too,” she grins. After a short hike, we’ve reached a waterfall and she is delighted. In fact she seems eager to forget about the interview entirely and just jump into the clear waters of the pool. “I have a connection to nature that is hard to put into words. I just feel it, you know? That’s why I am planning to come back to live in Dominica. It’s time. Nature is calling me, she is speaking to me. When I was a girl I used to run away into the bush, just me and my dog. The guys on their farms all knew me. I was always doing it. Trust me, if you spend enough time with me, you’ll think I’m crazy – talking to rocks and trees, that kind of thing. But there’s something about Dominica. I can’t stay away.” She has spent time abroad, studying and living in the US and UK, and now she has a home in

Kingston, Jamaica. “There are good and bad qualities to Jamaica and Dominica. Sometimes I wish I could just take the best bits of both, put them together and live in that place. With Dominica, it’s nature. With Jamaica it is acceptance. Rastas are part of society there: completely integrated and respected for who they are. It has been good for my children. I think in Dominica people have never properly confronted nor dealt with everything that took place during the time of the Dread Act. Terrible things happened. The police could shoot you just for having locks – and they did. That legacy, the class attitudes, the misunderstandings, they are all still there somehow.” But it is clear Nelly Stharre is ready to return. Just looking at her in these surroundings of rainforest and waterfalls makes me realise how difficult it must have been for her to leave in the first place. Nelly is a fam tew, a woman of the earth. Unable to wait any longer, she decides it is time to bathe and as she swims under the water, she seems to be an integral part of the scenery. She returns refreshed and beaming. Asked about new music, she tells me to expect an album in summer. It has been a long wait. “It’s because I’m more interested in lyrics. If it takes me forever to write good words that can last 20 or more years, then so be it. I’d rather do that than write something everyone will just forget. Actually I don’t think I’m that good a singer anyway. I love words more. I like to write poetry.” This time the songs are a fusion of blues and reggae and include “Pirates”, “Life Goes On”, and the wonderful “Moon Men”, a number that defies its catchy refrain by suggesting that if mankind can achieve amazing things like sending men to the moon, then letting people starve and live in poverty must be a deliberate act. So the rebellion is still there? “Of course,” she smiles. “Jah willing, the sun rises every day and will always give us the opportunity to do things better.” Article reproduced with permission from Caribbean Beat, MEP Publishers.

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Parting Shot Dominica is full of small wonders, many of them hidden beyond view. You just have to know where to look. A Zandoli on the Sari Sari Falls trail by Sindy Schöffler from Germany.

Dominica travellers are invited to submit their best photograph of the nature island to paulcrask@gmail.com (title the subject of your email PARTING SHOT. Submissions will be posted to our Facebook page). The winning photo selected by the Dominica Traveller team on 31st July 2016 will be printed in the 2017 edition. The winning photographer will also receive a copy of Paul’s Bradt Dominica Travel Guide.

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If you enjoyed reading Dominica Traveller and would like to advertise your business in the 2017 edition, register your interest now by emailing paulcrask@gmail.com. Don’t miss out.