A FEAST FOR THE AGES

Fishing the Blackfoot River during a major hatch

By Greg Eiden

When giant stoneflies first crawled out onto muddy banks, they were often crushed by some pretty big feet: those of Tyrannosaurus Rex. Today, these ancient creatures are still being crushed—by Montana’s most beautiful native, the Westslope cutthroat trout.

Stoneflies, in particular the 2- to 3-inch Pteronarcys californica, or giant salmonfly, indeed look like throwbacks to the Jurassic Era. A fisherman's dream is to find clouds of them on a scheduled trip to flyfish Montana’s Blackfoot River. Salmonflies are considered an indicator species. As an indicator of river quality, the nymphs only live in clear, clean waters. The fact they exist at all on the Blackfoot is a source of pride for the local Trout Unlimited chapter and other local conservation groups, who worked diligently to clean up the upper Blackfoot River after years of logging and mining. Today, anglers see a fairly consistent salmonfly hatch, typically as June ends, extending well into July.

CONSIDER THE SALMONFLY LIFE CYCLE.

Basically, the nymphs squiggle around on river bottoms for a couple of years until they get a nudge from Mother Nature—just about when river temps get in the 58–60 degrees range—to grow two pair of wings and flit around a bit in the air, eventually clinging to the willows lining the river. After mating, females will deposit eggs into the river. This makes them extremely vulnerable as big trout swim around in perpetual ambush mode.

On a late June morning, Mindy Marcum, one of the fly-fishing experts from The Resort at Paws Up, is gearing up to host this Oregon-based writer for two days of evening fishing. She quickly updates me on Blackfoot River conditions: "The river has been a chocolate brown color. We’ve had so much rain and heavy runoff this May and June." As one of Montana’s majestic freestone—or dam-free—rivers, the Blackfoot receives drainage from streams in the Bob Marshall Wilderness as well as the Swan Mountains. "Now, after a week of clear, warm weather, it’s dropping into fish-able shape, with greener water," Marcum says.

Serendipitously, the weather is cooperating as much as the water. Little wind, warm days, 58–62 degree water, all just right for big bugs to hatch. All that's needed to catch some cutthroats is a bit of luck. Well, that and just the right insect imitators.

Missoula’s Grizzly Hackle Fly Shop is the spot to pick the fish-fueled brain of Marcum’s husband and Grizzly employee, Rick Marcum. Walking through two long tables chock full of flies, Rick suggests trying old favorites like Chubby Chernobyl or Morrish’s Fluttering Salmonflies. Then there's one you've gotta buy just for the name: Roger’s Cat Puke.

Golden stones would also fit into the late June hatch mix. Giddy with anticipation, I grab a couple of Rogue Golden Stones as well. A more consistent hatch, they typically are seen during and well after the salmonflies. But when the salmonflies hatch, the big fish seem to want nothing else—they are the trout’s version of candied bacon.

"Those fish will crush your flies, gorging as long as they can. You can even feel them moving in trout bellies," Rick says. "There’s nothing subtle about a hit when the salmonflies are out."

On assignment in hopes of writing about this mystical hatch, it's music to my not yet sunburned ears.