Fall Guide 2014

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RIM COUNTRY A land for all seasons • • • • •

Fall/Winter

2014

ACTIVITIES SNOW FUN FALL COLORS SHOPPING HIKES & MORE


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The Historical

JOURNIGAN HOUSE Fine Food & Spirits 202 W. MAIN STREET (928) 474-2900

Featuring Great Food and Drink Specials Daily from Breakfast to Dinner

Julian Journigan was born in Flagstaff in 1884. His mother died when he was just eleven days old. Julian’s grandparents, John and Louisa See took him in, raising him in Strawberry and the Tonto Basin. They soon found themselves also raising their grandson Charley See, seven years younger than Julian. The two boys grew to become fast friends and later business partners. As a young man, Julian worked as a cowboy and in 1906, at age 22, he joined the Forest Service. He was stationed at Roosevelt under Superintendent Roscoe Willson, but after two years left that service to work for the Bureau of Indian Affairs at San Carlos. In February 1910 he married Margaret (“Madge”) Solomon and they had two children, Jack and Delsie Dee. In 1921 Julian’s cousin Charley asked him to come to Globe and help operate the mail stage between Globe and Payson. The Stage was still horse drawn and for several years the two of them hauled mail and passengers through swollen creeks and over dirt roads. In 1923 Julian secured a Cadillac car and the mail stage became mechanized. Julian and his Cadillac quickly became an institution in the Tonto and Payson Basins. He not only delivered the mail, but carried packages and passengers. Folks along the way often asked him to buy this or that for them in Globe, which he cheerfully did. One lady had him take a piece of some material she was sewing so he could buy thread to match the color. One of his nieces, local author Marguerite Noble, says that Julian also brought the local gossip with him along the route. There were no newspapers, radio, or television so people had to get their news by word of mouth. She tells that Stella Frazier, the postmistress at Roosevelt, read all the post cards and filled Julian in on what others were doing so he could pass it on.

About 1924 Journigan’s partner and cousin, Charley See gave up the mail route and Julian enlarged the route on his own. Mail routes were done by contract with the Federal government and the person who won the contract would often sublet portions of the route to others. These rural routes were called “Star Routes” because the asterisks on the contract noting sublets were called stars. Journigan won the contract for the entire route between Globe and the Verde Valley, going by way of Fossil Creek and including all stops in between. By this time mail service was daily along the extended route and required a number of subcontractors. Since he was settled into a job that seemed substantial, in 1925 Julian and his family built their house on Main Street. It’s what now is considered the front one-third of the building at 202 W. Main. From Journigan’s house on Main Street to Globe was a day’s trip in the Cadillac Stage. The party would stop for lunch at the Angler’s Inn near Roosevelt Lake. The noon meal consisted of cowboy beans, jerky, gravy, and hot biscuits. The special treat was iced tea, made with ice that had been packed in from Globe. On the return trip to Payson the climb up Ox Bow Hill often required the passengers to get out of the Cadillac and help it up the hill by placing stones behind the wheels as it crept along. In 1932 Julian lost his bid for the mail route. While the family still lived on Main Street, he went to work on the Chilson-Tremaine cattle ranches around Rye and continued his favorite sport of mining. It was in April of 1941, after a trip to his claims near the headwaters of Slate Creek, that Julian Journigan suffered a heart attack at the Sunflower Store and died. He was 57 years old and is buried in the Payson Pioneer Cemetery.


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Welcome to

Rim Country BY TERESA MCQUERREY ROUNDUP STAFF REPORTER

Visitors to the Rim Country in the fall and winter get to enjoy a different pace — slow and sweet. Waking up to cool — even chilly — mornings means lingering over a hot cup of coffee and watching the world come to life as the late rising sun climbs into the brilliant blue autumn sky. The smell of smoke lingers from fireplaces and wood-burning stoves that are actually used for heating rather than decoration or ambiance. As the sun rises the air warms up inviting visitors and residents alike to venture out into the wide, open spaces of the Tonto National Forest and beyond. Should it turn out to be a gray day, cool, blustery and maybe wet, there are plenty of other attractions to entertain you indoors. Check out any one of the great antique shops in Payson or Pine — several invite the visitor to bide awhile and wander through eclectic collections. There are a few retail shops that offer that same salve for wanderlust. Want a more upbeat time? Stop by the Mazatzal Hotel & Casino and enjoy great food, the friendly wait staff and a welcoming community of folks who like to take a chance on the slots, in the bingo hall or at live card games. The casino is open 24 hours a day and is a great place to play — and stay. Wander through the pages of the Payson Roundup’s 2014 Fall/Winter Guide and see what else the Rim Country has to offer. Thanks for coming to see us and enjoy your time here.


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Pete Aleshire/Roundup

Before the snow closes Forest Road 300, the cooler temperatures scare away Valley visitors and there is an abundance of developed and primitive sites on the Mogollon Rim.

Fall, winter camping sites abound Array of Rim Country spots offer place to create lasting memories

Yellowstone because we left the truck on so we could light off fireworks on Fourth of July (don’t try this, it’s illegal), driving the truck into a flooded desert wash in an area so remote that we would probably still be missing if we didn’t finally find a way to push it out; running out of water on a grueling hike up Half Dome. He had an uncanny way of laying out a grand BY ALEXIS BECHMAN adventure, but forgetting all the essential details, like ROUNDUP STAFF REPORTER water and gas. With my mother, we loaded up her Jeep and went I awoke before dawn while everyone else was still off-roading; camped with less disastrous results and sleeping. Halfway across the large dome tent, my visited Native American sites, cliff dwellings and powColeman plaid sleeping bag lay wadded on the other wows. side, evidence of a nocturnal trek I must have taken Now in my 30s, I have a tent of my own and four in my sleep, but couldn’t remember. wheels to carry me to just about anywhere. Some of I climbed back in the sleeping bag and curled up my favorites lie on top of the Mogollon Rim. In the next to my mom, trying to block out the cold air by winter, before the snow closes Forest Road 300, the tucking in the top of the thin bag. The smell of the cooler temperatures scare away musty nylon tent lulled me back to Valley visitors and there is an sleep. OPTIONS AND INFORMATION abundance of developed and primI woke hours later to clanking Information about campsites in the itive sites. tin cups, something sizzling over Tonto National Forest is available online And I always remember to the fire and murmuring voices at http://www.fs.usda.gov and by calling bring enough gas to get me home planning the day’s hike. the Payson Ranger Station at (928) and water. This was camping for me 474-7900, Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests Heber Ranger Station at (928) throughout childhood. It didn’t 535-5200 and Tonto Basin Ranger DisHouston Mesa matter where we were, it always trict at (928) 467-3200. One of the most popular campwent like this: a chilly morning Check out www.paysonrimcountry.com grounds, Houston Mesa, is located for a complete list of campgrounds in that begged me to stay inside just the area. just north of Payson. The campa few hours longer, a day spent ground will be open throughout trekking through the woods and the fall and winter pending then a night around the campfire drinking cocoa and playing games. If we got weather conditions. The campground, which is at an (un)lucky and it rained, I was always the one sent out elevation of 5,200 feet, is on the north side of Forest Road 199. On the south side of the road is the Housto build a trench around the tent. My father had an old yellow Ford pickup for years ton Mesa Horse Camp. Both sides are developed and after my parents divorced and we crisscrossed the equipped with coin-operated shower facilities, grills, Southwest for weeks at a time during summer break. rest rooms and a dump station for recreational vehiMy two older brothers and my father left little room cles. The campground also has a one-half-mile selffor me on the bench seat and I often huddled up on guided nature trail. the floorboard under the engine vent. Fees, which are charged year-round, are $20 a I have more disastrous travel stories with my father than I care to remember: running out of gas in night.

The horse camp features a water trough, pens and hitching trail.

Verde Glen Less than a mile off Forest Road 199, on the Control Road, is the Verde Glen campsite. All the Verde River sites are open into the winter and sometimes year-round, depending on snowfall. Mogollon Rim sites The first campgrounds to close for the winter are usually those on top of the Mogollon Rim in the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests. Some, however, are still open and will remain so until the Rim Road, Forest Road 300, is closed due to snow. The most popular campgrounds during the fall months are Crook and Sinkhole, just off Forest Road 300. Roosevelt Lake sites Heading south, several campgrounds near Roosevelt Lake, central Arizona’s largest lake, are open all year and stay relativity warm since they are in the lower elevations. The Cholla recreation site near the lake offers the largest all-solar powered campground in the United States, according to the Forest Service. People camp here throughout the winter, savor views of Four Peaks in the Sierra Anchas and the lake, which is also the main draw of the area. Fishing for largemouth bass, sunfish and flathead catfish is done yearround. Just east the Windy Hill recreation site boasts 350 campsites along paved loops, most with shade ramadas, fire rings, picnic tables and potable water hydrants. The site has toilets and showers, an amphitheater, playgrounds and a picnic area. Farther east awaits the Schoolhouse recreation site with 211 campsites, some tent-only, but all with fire rings and picnic tables. The site is also a popular river access point to the Upper Salt River.


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Pete Aleshire/Roundup

The Rim Trail offers spectacular views (above), although snows may turn it into a snowshoe trek in winter. The trails in Tonto Natural Bridge State Park (below) remain open year-round.

Get some fresh air on a fall hike BY MICHELE NELSON ROUNDUP STAFF REPORTER

The sun rises a bit later and sets a bit earlier. Must be fall. It’s easy to stay indoors imagining the cool mornings indicate a cold day, yet fall in Rim Country often means a warmth with plenty of sunshine. Perfect for a hike. From walking about Payson with a group of dedicated hikers to trekking down to Fossil Creek on an all-day excursion, the area offers hikes of all types. Pack a lunch, binoculars or a camera and get out for some fresh air on a fall hike.

Hikes in Town: The Payson Walkers For the more social types, meeting up with the Payson Walkers offers a chance to see new neighborhoods in Payson and meet local folks. The group was started by Mary Mastin who modeled the Payson Walker group from a walking club she joined in Whitefish, Montana. “I didn’t know anyone, but I met a lot of people through the group,” she said. The walkers in Whitefish not only introduced Mastin to locals, she learned about the community. The Payson walking group meets every morning at 9 a.m. and walks for about an hour leaving the rest of the day available for other adventures. The walking group has a calendar with start locations and neighborhoods to walk. To request a copy or to find out more information, please contact Mary Mastin at (928) 468-6842 or email her at mastinmb@hotmail.com. Payson Area Trails System (PATS) The trails around the town of Payson, called the Payson Area Trails System, (PATS), include 30 miles of riding and hiking trails, which connect, to Forest Service trails. The trails are well maintained with clear signs. Pick up a map at the Rim Country Regional Chamber of Commerce on Main Street and Highway 87 or go to the Town of Payson’s website: www. payson-

rimcountry.com/MountainRecreation/HikingTrails/PaysonAreaTrailsSystem.aspx. The longest hike in the system is 4.7 miles and the shortest is 0.4 miles.

The Arizona Trail Payson, Pine and Strawberry have the honor of being gateway communities to the Arizona Trail. The Arizona Trail goes from the Mexican to the Utah border. It covers 800-plus miles of Arizona terrain. Passages #25, Whiterock Mesa, and 26, Hardscrabble Mesa lay between the three towns. For more information, maps, news and information, please visit the Arizona Trail Association’s website at: www.aztrail.org. To find further trails, check out the Arizona Hiking Trails website: www.arizonahikingtrails.com/paysonhikes.asp

This website describes the location of the trail, difficulty, length of hike and whether or not the trail is kid-friendly or not.

Pine/Strawberry Trails Not wasting any time, the citizens of Pine and Strawberry have built trails in and amongst the firebreaks the Forest Service has made to protect the two towns. The Pine Trailhead offers entrance to a few of the trails built to the standards of the International Mountain Bike Association to guarantee durability, beauty and enjoyment. The Bearfoot Trail already has rave reviews. The Pine Trail makes a loop that shows off almost the whole valley. For an online map, please see: http://psfuelreduction.org/trails-in-the-fuel-break/ CONTINUED ON PAGE 7


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CONTINUED FROM PAGE 6

lies with toddlers often wander taking numerous breaks by the creek to allow the little ones a chance to splash about. At the top of the trail, a respectable switchback helps the hiker break a sweat to fully appreciate the cool and refreshing waters of Horton Creek. So pure is the water no filtration is necessary, just fill up containers straight from the spring source that gushes out from the base of the Mogollon Rim. To find the trailhead, take Highway 260 east. Continue to Kohl’s Ranch, but make a left up the road that leads to the Tonto Creek Fish Hatchery. Park at the bridge next to the RV park. The trail is across the street and up a hill. Signs lead the way to the entrance of the trail.

Woods Canyon Lake On a fall day walking the perimeter of Woods Canyon Lake up on the Rim offers a leisurely stroll around a beautiful body of water and a chance to dip toes or enjoy fall color. The lake remains open until mid-November when snows close the road. Enjoy watching the antics of local critters from birds in the air to fishermen in boats. Osprey and bald eagles glide and dip in their never-ending search for a meal. Ducks crowd the waters edge looking for a handout. As the sun dips below the horizon, the fish feed a tantalizing few feet from the shore frustrating fishermen when they refuse to take the bait — but it’s still worth a try because the fishermen are always out in force. To get there: take Highway 260 east up to the Rim and turn left on Forest Road 300 and follow the signs to Woods Canyon Lake. Wander the Rim: The Rim Trail If breathtaking views and an easy stroll are on the agenda, take a walk along the Rim. Turn left onto Forest Road 300 from East Highway 260. Pull over at any viewing spot overlooking the Rim and take off on the paved Rim Trail. The trail recently expanded from an infusion of stimulus money creating a ribbon of black asphalt that winds through the forest overlooking the Mogollon Rim for a couple of miles. Hit the trail to watch the sun set while sitting with legs dangling over the edge of the world. From the very young to the very old, everyone in the family can enjoy this trail, even from a wheelchair or a mountain bike.

Pete Aleshire/Roundup

The Horton Creek Trail remains popular all year long.

Horton Creek Trail Horton Creek Trail can be a four-mile trek or a slow walk by a stunning creek. Fed by a spring under the Rim at the junction of the Highline Trail and the top of Horton Creek Trail, the meandering jaunt has the unique quality of being shaded by trees for most of the length of the trail. At times, the trail opens up to beautiful meadows, at others it hugs the creek so closely a hiker can peer over the sheer cliffs carved by raging swollen waters from winter storms or monsoon rains. So gentle is the rise at the bottom of the trail, fami-

An all-day adventure: Fossil Creek If anyone plans on hiking the Grand Canyon rim to rim, spend every weekend for a month hiking the Fossil Creek Trail. With a 1,200-foot elevation change over a four-mile length trail, going up and down to the creek in a day is more than a hike — it’s an adventure. The arid trail is fine for a crisp fall day. Watch for exposed rock and water run-off damage. Yet, the adventure is well worth the risk. Fossil Creek Canyon is a magical world of moss and trees. A pristine riparian area chock-full of wildlife. Black hawks, native fish and amphibians, and tiny birds of all types flit from branch to branch. It’s an easy place to spend a day and a hike that will definitely feel like an accomplishment. To reach the trailhead — drive down Fossil Creek Road in Strawberry that juts off of the northbound Hwy 87/260. Continue down the paved road until it turns into a rutted bumpy dirt road. Signs direct hikers to the trailhead with upgraded amenities.

Rim Country Museum & Zane Grey Cabin Hours: Wednesday-Saturday 10am-4pm • Sunday 1pm-4pm

700 Green Valley Parkway • Payson, Arizona (928) 474-3483 www.rimcountrymuseums.com

NGCHS — Preserving Our Western Heritage


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Antique ABCs: Explore before investing BY TERESA MCQUERREY ROUNDUP STAFF REPORTER

So, you want to collect antiques. Which kind? Antiques can run the gamut from buttons to behemoth pieces of furniture. The first rule: Collect what you love. If you would love to do a room or a whole house with antiques, decide what you need and what you can spend. “Antique furniture is very practical for living,” said one expert. “It is made from solid wood, it’s sturdy and well-made and can take a little more abuse than furniture being made today.” It can also be refinished. Pieces made in the 1940s have those qualities and are still relatively affordable. The buyer should decide if they want to go eclectic and mix in just one or two pieces of antique furniture with what they have, use antiques as accent pieces or have a collection. The second rule: Make your first purchase an inexpensive one, then research it, and items like it, on the Internet, in books and at antique stores. One of the books recommended for novice collectors is “Furniture Detective.” If antique furniture is not your cup of tea, then perhaps teacups are, or decorative and practical serving pieces, or those items, such as Fenton art glass, that are predominantly decorative. What are some of the most popular furniture pieces in the antique business? Sideboards and buffets are especially popular for the extra storage they provide and the multiple uses they have. Other cabinetry pieces are popular too, again for the added storage they afford, accent tables and chairs are big sellers, and so are lamps. A couple of Rim antique shops to check out:

Granny’s Attic Antiques Granny’s Attic, 800 E. Highway 260, Payson, is a 3,200-square-foot facility with multiple dealers. It has been voted “Best of Rim Country” through a readers’ poll conducted by the Payson Roundup for 20 years. The vendors participating offer items of all different shapes, sizes and eras. Whether you are the passionately dedicated collector or you are just looking for that timeless item that brings back all those wonderful memories, Granny’s Attic is always worth a visit. Granny’s mission is to provide customers with fun, quality items by avoiding a “yard sale” type atmosphere. Come in and see the surprises that await at Granny’s Attic.

Roundup file photo

Moose Mountain Gifts & Antiques in Pine is another place where there is a head-spinning assortment of shopping wonders — both new and old.

For more information, call (928) 474-3962.

Tymeless Antiques & Treasures Tymeless Antiques & Treasures, 3716 Prince Drive, Pine, is a great place for the hunt. The store — an antique emporium — is owned and operated by Larry Baker. “We invite people to come in and browse,” Baker said. With room after room and even a porch and patio of antiques and collectibles, a good thorough browsing of Baker’s store will take at least a couple of hours. Just a quick walk-through, with only a pause or two can take half-an-hour. Tymeless Antiques & Treasures offers goods from a variety of vendors as well as those Baker finds for

sale. The store has furniture, both antique, vintage and reproductions; vintage linens and accessories, even a few pieces of clothing; collectibles, including advertising pieces; pottery for the patio as well as inside; and glass items. It includes dealers from the Pine and Strawberry areas who wanted to streamline and just rent boothtype space — though the “booths” are more like magical little nooks — plus Valley dealers who wanted to expand into the Rim Country. Baker recommends novice collectors — either of collectibles or antiques — “find something you truly like or love and then start buying and collecting because you like it.” For more information, call (928) 476-4618.

Shopping: Another Rim Country hunt BY TERESA MCQUERREY ROUNDUP STAFF REPORTER

Looking for a bit of adventure in shopping? There are a few places in the Rim Country that are perfect for those in search of the thrill of the hunt. Check out one or all of the many thrift shops in the area and explore the inventory for just that right, fun, funky thing and help a nonprofit as well. Among the thrift shops are those benefiting St. Vincent de Paul, the Mogollon Health Alliance, the Payson Senior Center, the Humane Society of Central Arizona, several other animal rescue operations, the domestic violence shelter, a couple of different veterans organizations and the senior program serving Pine and Strawberry. Visit Beall’s Outlet, 305 S. Beeline (just east of

KFC) in Payson and find a little bit of everything — clothes, shoes, accessories, home décor and linens, stuff of the kitchen and funky stationery. The products come from all over and are outlet priced, plus, if they sport a dot of one color or another they have an added discount. Granny’s Attic Antiques, 800 E. Highway 260, Payson, is another hunter’s dream. The place is packed to the rafters with all nature of antiques and collectibles. You can spend hours just wandering through the different spaces looking for that perfect addition to your own collection or that of a loved one or that absolutely irresistible item to start that special assortment of unique pieces you’ve always dreamed of having in your home or office. A similar arrangement of the odd and adorable can

be found at Bootleg Alley Antiques & Art, 520 W. Main, Payson. Call the shop at (928) 472-4323 for hours of operation. Take the time to drive up to Pine sometime in the near future and spend an hour or two at Moose Mountain Gifts & Antiques, 6624 W. Hardscrabble Mesa Rd. This is another place where there is a head-spinning assortment of wonders. Another great spot to shop for hunters in Pine is Tymeless Antiques & Treasures, the address is 3716 N. Prince Dr., across the street from the Pine Strawberry Fire Department at 6198 W. Hardscrabble Mesa Rd. This season, treat yourself — or your guests — to an adventure shopping in the Rim Country and go on the hunt at one of these great area stores.


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Dog park and other favorite haunts BY KEITH MORRIS ROUNDUP STAFF REPORTER

As a man of many interests, I enjoy a variety of places in Rim Country. And I find myself drawn to a few of them on a fairly regular basis. Being a dog owner, Payson’s dog park ranks near the top of my list of area attractions. My canine pals, Bear and Bailey, love to play, and, while they do plenty of that by themselves in our house and yard, I’m thrilled that Payson features such a wonderful place I can take them to socialize with other furry creatures. The dog park, located in Rumsey Park, features a large fenced dirt lot with a few large trees, as well as a covered structure with a picnic table and chairs providing shade for owners. The complex also features a smaller area for small or timid dogs. Not only is this a great place for dogs to play, it’s not a bad spot for their owners to socialize with others who also share a love of these four-legged friends. The park features a water fountain and patrons are asked to pick up after their pets, which most do with the numerous plastic shopping bags in plentiful supply, to keep the park clean. The bag container is usually well stocked, but visitors are encouraged to bring extra bags to add to the supply. In addition to the dog park, I enjoy visiting Rumsey Park, in general. With several softball fields and two artificial-turf soccer fields, the park offers a setting for plenty of games to watch throughout the year, not to mention the outdoor basketball court, tennis courts and two sand volleyball courts. The park has a play area for children and Taylor Pool in the summer.

Keith Morris/Roundup

The Boulders Trail is part of the Payson Area Trails System — and one of Keith’s favorite hikes, with dogs in tow.

I also love Green Valley Park, which offers fishing in Green Valley Lake, as well as a beautiful and peaceful place to enjoy a nice picnic lunch. The park hosts many events throughout the year and one of my favorite activities is attending some of the free Concerts Under the Stars shows held on Saturday nights during the summer. I also spend many days a year hiking the many

spectacular trails in Rim Country, especially Monument Peaks, right across the road from where I live. I take that hike almost daily, but I really love the days when I can find the time to round up the dogs, get in the car and drive the few minutes to another trail because there’s so much beauty in Rim Country that hiking through it is a spectacular way to experience some of it.

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Mountain biking: Thrills for all seasons When snow closes trails atop the Rim, low-elevation alternatives await BY ALEXIS BECHMAN ROUNDUP STAFF REPORTER

Because I am afraid of going fast and feeling out of control, I go mountain biking. On paper, mountain biking seems like something for the insane — out-ofcontrol downhill descents, boulders and logs ready to fling you over your handlebars; isolated trails; animal encounters; and equipment so costly you’ll still be paying it off long after you wreck it. When describing this pastime to friends, I am still surprised whenever anyone says they’ll come along. Some whine and complain arguably, not thrilled the pastime takes muscle and bronze, but most return (usually in one piece) smiling and excited to take on another trail. I have even convinced a couple to buy new bikes and now most have better equipment than my old hand-me-down bike from my brother made by a company that no longer exists. Ask any serious mountain biker where the best trails are in Rim Country and most will say in the higher elevations, on top of the Mogollon Rim or coming off of it, such as the Highline or Carr Lake trails or in Pine-Strawberry, which plays host to the Fire on the Rim Mountain Bike Race every summer. But this guide really isn’t for serious mountain bikers since they already know where to go. While snow shuts down most of the epic trails on the Rim, that doesn’t mean mountain biking is out until spring. The lower elevations feature lots of trails skating amongst trees and granite boulders. Some are single track and others, arguably, more rutted road. This guide will run through some of the better trails to hit and most are accessible all year. And don’t worry if you feel out of control and out of your element, that is part of the charm.

Crackerjack The views along Crackerjack are fantastic and the road passes by several old mine shafts and mine tailings (the shafts have been covered up though, so there’s not much left to see). Pick up this long, sometimes rough dirt road just outside of Payson as you head toward Pine. It’s the first dirt road turnoff to the south dignified by a stop sign. The road leads through the woods down to the East Verde River, crosses the river, then continues along the high plateau as it winds down toward another crossing of the Verde River at Doll Baby Ranch. Most riders don’t head all the way to Doll Baby Ranch road though preferring instead to turnaround at East Verde Estates and either going back the way they came or following Highway 87 uphill back to their vehicle. It’s treacherously muddy in the spring or after a big rain — don’t go near it when it’s wet. Otherwise, it provides a scenic, relatively unvisited back-road adventure, with access to water at several points. Boulders Loop and Cypress trails If you are looking for short, fun rides then check out these trails, which are part of the Payson Area Trails System (PATS). That makes them close to town and easily accessible. Pick up the Boulders Loop trail roughly 4 miles down Granite Dells Road, which initially is paved and

Peter Aleshire/Roundup

Snow closes many popular mountain bike trails atop the Rim, but never fear, Payson boasts some challenging but scenic trails close to town — including some popular routes in Granite Dells (pictured below).

then becomes a dirt road. A Forest Service trailhead sign provides general trail information, including a map. It is a good idea to study the map or print a version online since there are a series of connecting trails in the area that can prove confusing. The popular trail offers challenging hills, rocks and washes and gets its name because of the spectacular boulders scattered around the hills. Rock-climbing and bouldering is also popular in the area. The Cypress Trail is accessible from the Boulders Loop and is a good way to extend your ride.

Monument Peak Loop Also in the area off Granite Dells Road, the Monument Peak Loop offers a 3-mile trail that is very popular with quads. It’s a good option if you have already hit the Boulders Loop. The loop circles the base of Monument Peak, passing through juniper, meadows and a seasonal stream. Houston Mesa Trail Also part of PATS, mountain bikers love the Houston Mesa Trail because of the areas challenging terrain, including hills and rocks — with lots of chances to pick up speed. From Payson, head north and turn right on Houston Mesa Road. The trailhead is on the right less than a mile later. The trail is roughly 4 miles.

meet you on Phoenix Street in the undeveloped subdivision.

Round Valley Trail This PATS trail covers 4.5 miles. Head north on the trail from the Payson Sonic to Phoenix Street and you’ll have an easier, downhill run. The trail offers fantastic views of the Mazatzal Mountains and Granite Dells, as well as the Mogollon Rim. From Payson, head south to the Mazatzal Casino light and turn into the casino. Turn right, passing in front of the gas station and Sonic. Take the dirt road just south of Sonic. Either take the trek out and back or have someone

No name trail (Trail 300) Although not part of PATS, this trail lies just outside of town. The trail passes through huge boulders and pine groves and offers plenty of mountain views. A group of local mountain bikers craving solid singletrack reportedly created the trail several years ago. The roughly 3.5-mile loop offers technical sections that have been known to throw riders. Head east on Phoenix Street and pick up the trail just off an undeveloped cul-de-sac.


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PAYSON ROUNDUP | 11

She simply remembers her favorite things BY MICHELE NELSON ROUNDUP STAFF REPORTER

Fall means extra busy evenings and days keeping up with an active teenager, so finding a place to simply sit, listen to water or watch clouds restores my sanity. Lucky for me, the Rim Country is chock-full of streams and lakes to while away the hours on a self-imposed relaxing weekend. As a bonus, when the leaves change, reds, yellows and oranges contrast with the evergreen boughs of the ponderosa, pinion, and juniper — a feast for the eyes. The closest body of water to Payson, the East Verde River, is just a short jaunt north out of town toward Pine. Exit either on Flowing Springs Road or East Verde Estates Road, find a place to ditch the car and wander up the river for some privacy. Plop down on a bank and enjoy a lazy afternoon. The breeze through the cottonwoods, sycamore and walnuts has a softer sound than the thin whistle pine needles emit. Birds flit. Clouds waft. And time stops, while the water plays a constant tune to smooth out the rough edges of stress. Sigh ... restoration. Another favorite stream of mine is Tonto Creek. Higher up in elevation than Payson, the atmosphere reflects a more forested feel with tall ponderosa pines, narrow channels, more boulders and pools shaded by tall trees. If a lake fits the bill, head up to the Rim lakes, but take along lots of layers. As fall takes hold, the air at the 7,000-foot-high elevation takes on a brisk air that chills the bones. Despite the cold, the ospreys swoop and dive as fish still populate Woods Canyon Lake. If the wind dies down enough, the clouds and trees reflect off the water. Most people stick close to the little store and parking lot, but venture out, because it’s possible to walk around the lake. Find a private inlet, spread a blanket, pull out a snack and enjoy immersion in nature. For a warmer lake, drive down through the verdant valley of Tonto Basin to Roosevelt Lake. The shoreline lacks vegetation, but the layers of color that emerge as the sun sets warm the soul and inspire some beautiful photography. Sometimes I meet up with friends who own paddleboards and launch out onto the lake to enjoy the rising moon. Pure magic! It always astonishes me how many bodies of water Snow transforms the scene atop the Mogollon Rim along Forest Road 300 in the winter. touch the Rim Country.

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12 | PAYSON ROUNDUP

FALL/WINTER 2014

Rim Country glows with glory of fall BY PETE ALESHIRE ROUNDUP EDITOR

Let us give thanks for leaves — especially gold, and red and yellow — fluttering to the earth in the fall. Thanksgiving draws neigh — so let us count these fluttery blessings. I study the arrangement of the leaves on the tip of a branch, trying to glimpse the mysterious mathematical proportions of the Fibonacci numbers. Turns out, this number sequence articulated hundreds of years ago by a Renaissance genius of the same name captures some mysterious symmetry of the universe — from the Golden Mean by which we determine whether a woman’s face is beautiful to the arrangement of leaves on a branch. Lying here amidst the rustle and the splendor, with winter already closing in and summer but a dappled memory, the world seems so simultaneously simple and intricate that it seems miraculous at every scale. Consider the humble leaf, in all its misleading simplicity. In a few hundred million years, leaves have made the planet’s great diversity of living things possible, for leaves have dramatically increased the ability of plants to make energy from sunlight — which fuels the whole three-ringed circus of life. You can search the planet and not find a more diverse and absorbing illustration of the miracle of leaves than Payson — perched on an ecological boundary. Here, the cottonwoods and sycamores along the East Verde go lurid every fall, dropping the leaves of summer in an act of shrewd extravagance. But growing right alongside them the patient junipers and pines hold onto their evergreen leaves all through winter’s hardships. So I let the leaves half bury me, gulping the gift of their oxygen and marveling at the ingenuity of their trade-offs. For leaves have taken us all on a long, strange trip. The first land-based plants emerged from the great nursery of ocean some 1.2 billion years ago, but they amounted to variations on pond scum. CONTINUED ON PAGE 13

Photo courtesy DJ Craig

The aspen on the shores of Bear Canyon Lake offer a spectacular display of fall colors.

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FALL/WINTER 2014

PAYSON ROUNDUP | 13 CONTINUED FROM PAGE 12

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Aspens atop the Rim drop the leaves in October but the fall color displays of the cottonwoods and sycamores along the East Verde and Fossil Creek continue into November.

The first true land-dwelling plants didn’t creep ashore until about 500 million years ago, having already mastered the art of photosynthesis. Green chlorophyll allows plants to use the energy of sunlight to turn water and carbon dioxide into sugars and a little gasp of oxygen, which the plant sheds as waste to the great delight of airbreathers everywhere. But here’s a mystery: Early plants hit upon roots, stems, trunks, veins, photosynthesis and many other hallmarks of plantiness a full 50 million years before they came up with leaves — followed promptly by flowers. Now, the leafy trees support a whole world — from root to crown. For instance, at least 78 different species of bacteria grow on the roots of a cottonwood, according to a study by researchers from Brookhaven National Laboratory. Seeking ways to make plants like cottonwoods and aspen grow faster, the researchers isolated these different bacteria then grew seedlings with different combinations. They discovered that certain bacteria increase the plant’s growth rate by 50 percent. So one theory on the origins of leaves suggests that once plant roots found their key partners in the soil, they could finally take advantage of the energy boost offered by the evolution of leaves. Now, consider a remarkable feedback effect once plants hit on leaves. Leaves provide a second great benefit to plants — based on what looks at first glance to pose a disadvantage: evaporation. A cottonwood every day loses huge quantities of water through its leaves. But those sun-baked leaves are connected directly to the roots

through the vascular system of the plant. As a result, the pressure created by the evaporation from the leaf’s surface effectively pumps water and nutrients up from the roots. So plants could never have escaped the swamp nor grown more than a few feet tall until they invented leaves, which became the foundation of the explosion of diversity in life. A leaf lands on my forehead. I watched it all the way down, fascinated by the spiraling flutter. At the last possible moment, it veered to crash land on my forehead. I am startled — but grateful. I think all the world rustles now in the branches of my cottonwood — and the maples and sycamores and aspen that flare for their own tremble of glory in the stately progression of fall. They have nourished us, made up our beds, pulled the comforter snug against our chins. I can’t say that we’ve expressed our gratitude very well. We’ve laid waste to the riparian areas once dominated by cottonwoods and sycamores and the other giants of fall. By some estimates, these cottonwood-willow ecosystems sustain a greater mass and diversity of life than any place outside the rainforest. But we’ve destroyed or degraded 90 percent of those areas in the past century. Mercifully, the cottonwood that shelters me now does not appear to hold it against me. The great poplar gently rains its blessings down upon me. It soothes my soul. It sings with the wind. It pays its debts. For it exchanges my carbon dioxide for its oxygen — and then returns the gifts of a star to the waiting earth — and all through the miracle of a leaf.

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14 | PAYSON ROUNDUP

FALL/WINTER 2014

Tonto Natural Bridge a year-round draw

BY PETE ALESHIRE ROUNDUP EDITOR

The world’s largest natural travertine arch remains a year-round draw for Rim Country. Open daily from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., the cavernous arch, historic lodge, perfect picnic areas and rugged scenery have attracted people for thousands of years to explore Rim Country’s frontier history. An unusual partnership between Payson, Star Valley, the Tonto Apache Tribe and Arizona State Parks to keep the bridge open during the recession has served as something of a model for such community partnerships statewide. Tonto Natural Bridge State Park gets an average of 8,000 visitors monthly — mostly on summer weekends. But the park remains a great way to spend the day even in the fall and winter. The fall’s one of the best times to visit the park, since the crowds thin out and the cottonwoods and sycamores along Pine Creek put on a luminous display of color. The park centers on a cavernous, 183-foot-high, 400-foot-long tunnel Pine Creek has dissolved through a massive wall of travertine. Visitors can visit the gift shop in a territorial style historic lodge, then hike down to the creek. Many visitors pick their way through the 150-foot-wide tunnel, savoring the cooler temperatures, waterfalls, deep, clear pools and steady drip of groundwater from the ceiling. The park has also completed work on a paved pathway and wheelchair ramps that connect the visitors center to several overlooks. George Randall donated most of the concrete and Four Corners Concrete in Payson did the work. The park also recently added a large, covered ramada with picnic tables that groups can reserve for gatherings. The full-time staffing in the park has declined from five to three, which makes the contributions of a core of about 30 volunteers crucial. Volunteers donate nearly 600 hours every month, which adds up to more than 60,000 hours annually. After the Legislature diverted the bulk of the operating funds for the state’s 28-park system, the Arizona

Pete Aleshire/Roundup

Dissolved calcium carbonate from sedimentary limestone forms travertine, which precipitates out of groundwater. At Tonto Natural Bridge State Park it formed a natural wonder when Pine Creek dissolved a vast cavern through a giant wall of travertine.

parks board considered plans to close many sites — including Tonto Natural Bridge, which even in normal times costs more to operate than visitors pay in fees. Payson and Star Valley rallied to the park’s defense, contributing up to $30,000 annually to help offset operating costs. Volunteers also stepped up their efforts and formed Friends of Tonto Natural Bridge. The volunteers now contribute enough hours to compensate for three full-time positions. Parks officials hope that Tonto Natural Bridge will end up becoming a model for partnerships with private firms. The master plan envisions opening the lodge to overnight visitors, adding a restaurant and perhaps building and renting cabins and campgrounds. State park officials hope that a private contractor will be willing to invest in such improvements, which would increase the revenue and the visitation. An economic study done when the bridge was attracting 90,000 annually concluded that visitors to the park inject about $26 million a year into the local, tourist-dependent economy. The massive, travertine arch has a rich history — both human and geologic. The arch formed from a fascinating process in just the last 5,000 years. That’s when springs began to gush from fractures in thick layers of limestone on one side of the small canyon carved by Pine Creek. The limestone layers formed from the skeletons of micro-

scopic sea creatures that settled to the bottom of an ancient, vanished sea. The seabottom deposits were transformed into limestone after they were buried, heated, fused and then uplifted. Rainfall that fell on the uplands filtered through those buried layers of limestone and fed the springs. That percolating groundwater picked up a heavy load of calcium carbonate from the limestone. This mineral then precipitated out of the water as it emerged into the sunlight. The travertine built up to form a massive wall, that blocked and diverted Pine Creek. The waters of the creek then went to work on the travertine dam, initially forming a meander to go around it, but eventually dissolving a tunnel right through it. A similar process formed Kartchner Caverns in southeast Arizona and is now building new formations in Fossil Creek. Various Native American groups took advantage of the bounty of Pine Creek for thousands of years. Whites did not discover the natural wonder until prospector David Gowan used the cavern to hide from a band of pursuing Apaches in 1877. He reportedly hid for three days in smaller caves connected to the central arch before he emerged and decided to homestead the nearby valley. He started a farm and ranch there and was joined by his nephew, David Goodfellow and family in 1893, who eventually took over the homestead.


FALL/WINTER 2014

PAYSON ROUNDUP | 15

Shooy Ruins: An ancient mystery BY KELLY GRIFFITH ROUNDUP INTERN

Step back in time to explore the Shoofly Village Ruins with the family. Close by, the Shoofly Village Ruins lie just 100 yards off Houston Mesa Road, offering a great opportunity for fun and education. The quarter-mile trail tours the mystery of the rise and fall of a culture that once lived here 800 years ago. Shoofly offers a great view atop Houston Mesa at an elevation of 5,240 feet, surrounded mostly by grassland with scattered juniper and brush. The ruins offer a great setting for a picnic outing with the family. Shoofly Village is listed on the National Historic Register of places, with 80-plus rooms spread across four acres. Between A.D. 1000 and 1200 as many as 250 people lived and survived here by farming, gathering wild plant food and hunting. Three periods of growth exist here with the different “village segments.” Explore each room personally; appreciate the unique oval, square and rectangular architecture, walk into the separate segments that used to be homes or storage rooms and imagine that vanished life. Most rooms were close by a common courtyard, most

likely used for community activities. Children really enjoy running through and exploring the ruins, standing in the different rock outlines where a structure once stood hundreds of years ago, using their imaginations to try to relate to how these people once lived. Some structures may have even been two stories high. The earliest people of Payson moved around a lot to avoid floods, so often they didn’t have permanent settlements. Archaeologists have found evidence of recurring flood, draught and famine. Possible raiding from the other tribes for their crops may have taken place. They gradually abandoned Shoofly around A.D. 1250 along with the rest of the region. No one knows why, but drought and social differences may have played a part in the uprooting. Archaeologist John Hughes first made note of the ruins in 1930. However, excavations conducted by Dr. Charles Redman from Arizona State University, didn’t start until 1984, part of a four-year field school program. Never thoroughly excavated, there may be more lying beneath the surface. More excavations may take place in the future.

Pete Aleshire/Roundup

The Shoofly Ruins represent perhaps the only fully stone mortared dwellings in the region. The evidence now suggests that an extended drought finished off 1,000 years of an agriculturalbased civilization in the Payson area, leading to a regional collapse and abandonment of Rim Country settlements.

Mazatzal Casino: A pleasant run of luck BY TERESA MCQUERREY ROUNDUP STAFF REPORTER

The chance to win some money always creates some fun anticipation. That is what the Mazatzal Hotel & Casino offers both Rim Country visitors and residents. It has a great wait staff working the floor and regular players are happy to welcome newcomers to the little “communities” they have created. More often than not a special promotion is taking place. And if you have not visited before, you are encouraged to get a free Players Club card and its accompanying “Maz Cash” — $10 worth

of “points” you can play on the slots by punching in a personal identification number. Hungry? You can order something from The Grille for service on the floor — they have terrific cheeseburgers and fries, fantastic chili and more. Enjoy fine dining in the Cedar Ridge Restaurant, order from the menu or check out the buffet room, which features a different “theme” from time to time — there is a regular Friday fish fry that includes not only fried fish, but baked fish as well as shrimp and sides. The restaurant also occasionally features Chinese and Mexican buffets. The

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daily buffet at the restaurant is from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., except holidays. The specialty of the house is slow-roasted prime rib and there is a great salad bar to enjoy too. Wednesdays, from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m., you can take part in Crabby Wednesdays with all-you-can-eat crab legs. Holiday buffets are also offered at the Cedar Ridge Restaurant and usually feature prime rib, ham and salmon. Want to enjoy authentic frybread? The casino has a special Frybread for Families program once a month to help raise funds for Rim Country families in need. Served in the Fireside Room on

the west end of the casino, guests can enjoy plain, honey and powdered sugar, bean and cheese or an Apache Taco Frybread with a drink for just $6. Add $1 and get ground beef as well. The remaining events for 2014 are from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Thursday, Nov. 13 and from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m., Thursday, Dec. 11. The 2015 schedule has not been released. New this year, the casino has opened the Koffee Corner where guests can sit back in comfortable couches and armchairs with a favorite specialty coffee or smoothie. The drinks can also be enjoyed on the floor.

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16 | PAYSON ROUNDUP

FALL/WINTER 2014

Pete Aleshire/Roundup

Rim Country offers an array of winter activities from snowshoeing or cross country skiing on the Rim to amateur sled dog delights in Payson during the occasional snowfalls that stick for awhile.

The magic of snow – without shoveling BY PETE ALESHIRE ROUNDUP EDITOR

The sky falls all around me. Or perhaps I am rising, weightless to heaven. Wrapped in silence, I have left the muddy brown world behind to drift into this enchantment. Fluffy frozen crystals fall all about — awe made manifest. They melt on my cheek as fast as they fall — chilled tears, too pure for salt. I hold my breath in the profound silence. That is why I rush out into the first snowfall of the season. I cannot hold that silence in my mind. It slips away in the rustling din of my life — distant traffic, clacking computer keys, clicking clocks, humming heaters, fussing fridges. But here in the falling snow when the wind has died I can find the only perfect silence of my haphazard life. I have not imagined this: It is one of the singular qualities of snow. A falling snowflake has a density about 8 percent of water’s. Even after months on the ground, the compressed snow has 30 percent of water’s density. The intricate lattice of ice crystals traps air molecules and those air molecules trap the vibrations of sound, muffling every whisper. Even an inch of snow changes the sound of everything, the way a nun hushes giggling children in the nave of a cathedral. So I rush into the storm to stand in the silence. Strange stuff, this crystalline incarnation of water — evidence, I think, of the Creator’s care. Almost all other liquids condense as they freeze. But water expands, in the process cracking stone and creating soil. Without the force of that expansion in uncounted cracks and fissures, rocks would last nearly forever and we’d have no soil for our roots. Moreover, ice can transition directly into vapor, without melting first. This neat physics trick accounts for many of the properties of snow.

Snowflakes form in the super chilled interiors of wet storm clouds. Pure water won’t crystallize until its temperature falls to 31 degrees below zero. But floating particles of dust, clay, even bacteria can form a tiny nucleus on which the ice crystal can form. Once started, the ice crystals grow into snowflakes — their shape and size determined by the conditions inside the cloud and the air through which they fall. Snow itself shapes landscapes — and life. The blinding white snow reflects sunlight so effectively that snow cover affects the climate of the whole planet. Many climate scientists now are struggling to understand all the feedback effects of snow cover. Pollution and dust storms darken pristine snow, which can change the heat balance of the planet. But even though snow reflects energy back into space, it also insulates the ground — thanks to all that trapped air within each crystal. This shroud of snow holds the temperature of the ground near zero

— but doesn’t let it get much colder than that. As a result, life survives beneath the snow. Trees and bushes buried in snow actually suffer less freezing and dehydration than plants not covered in this crystalline survival blanket. So the forest sleeps, but survives to wake in the spring. Moreover, snow stores precious moisture through the storms of winter — then releases it gradually into the promise of spring. This delayed release of life-giving water patterns the cycles of all living things — from Los Angeles commuters to migrating elk. But standing now in this crystalline drift of astonishment, those bustling suburbs, whirling turbines and distant deserts seem abstract and unreal. Only the snow exists — the snow and the silence, which seems alive and alert. The flakes fall, my spirit rises. I make a small cloud with each reverent exhalation. My breath returns to the sky, to the world. It swirls up to fall again, bound into a snowflake that shall surely fall on some other, upturned cheek.


FALL/WINTER 2014

PAYSON ROUNDUP | 17

Cozy is the word for fall and winter dining BY MICHELE NELSON ROUNDUP STAFF REPORTER

Fall brings on a desire for comfort food, warm and savory. If soup or stew moves the palate, try the tortilla soup at El Rancho or the coconut Tom Kha Gai soup at Ayothaya Café — soups with an international flair that chefs can spike with spice to kick up the warmth. If a good sports game, a beer and wings are on your mind, give a try to the myriad of wing types at the newly opened Native Grill. The choice of wing toppings goes from super hot to smoky sweet. The restaurant, opened in the Bashas’ shopping center and has a TV on pretty much every wall. Whatever game a customer would like to see — no problem. If a plate full of steaming pasta fills the comfort food need, try Gerardo’s Firewood Café. Chef Gerardo enjoys making up special dishes, such as butternut-squash-filled ravioli. The atmosphere of the restaurant includes classic red table cloths and candles, perfect for a romantic evening out. If comfort food means a big juicy steak, then the Rim Country can happily deliver. Fargo’s Steakhouse has a delicious menu and classy surroundings. From prime rib to New York steak, filet mignon and ribeye, the kitchen will cook the steak to whatever level the connoisseur would prefer. Fargo’s also has numerous fish, chicken, pork and vegetarian dishes. A hidden gem for great steaks lies at the back of the Mazatzal Casino and Hotel in its Cedar Ridge Restaurant. From prime rib to New York strip, Cedar Ridge has delicious cuts cooked to perfection. Locals love the restaurant’s Friday night all-youcan-eat salad bar and fish fry buffet. Just a short drive out of town on Highway 260 east, Diamond Point Shadows has great steaks in a private atmosphere, since the restaurant is the only business around for miles. Farther down 260, the Zane Grey Steakhouse serves food within the Kohl’s Ranch Lodge. Across the way in Christopher Creek, the Creekside Steakhouse has a rustic feel in the middle of the tiny enclave. For a surprise, head on down to Tonto Basin on the way to Roosevelt Lake to eat at the Butcher Hook. The restaurant serves incredible steaks to locals and fishermen. As an added bonus, a bar with shuf-

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Pete Aleshire/Roundup

Rim Country offers a wealth of restaurant and entertainment options. Here, two-steppers twirl on the dance floor of the Buffalo Bar and Grill during the popular Sunday night jam session with Junction 87.

fleboard and horseshoes out back keeps customers busy when live music isn’t playing. For some people only a hamburger will serve as appropriate comfort food. In the Rim Country, customers can enjoy a burger in an old-fashioned bar with boots and bridles hanging from the ceiling or grab a bite in almost any fastfood restaurant imaginable. For unique old-time Western flair, the Buffalo Bar and Grill can’t be beat. The restaurant has pithy sayings framed on the wall, a long bar with classic stools, and live Western music every Sunday from 5 until 9 p.m. The place also has one of the best burgers in town — a ground sirloin burger with a delectable taste.

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The bar also serves other delectable pub food such as a black and blue salad with steak and blue cheese and tangy vinegarette. Macky’s Grill in the Sawmill Crossing shopping mall regularly fills up with locals to chow down on burgers perfectly cooked. The menu also includes delicious soups, salads and other sandwiches. For an interesting burger and menu filled with surprising twists, give Ms. Fitz’s 260 Café a try. The restaurant is only open for breakfast and lunch, but the chefs make culinary delights from a pesto chicken sandwich to a meatloaf. Customers rave about the old-fashioned ambiance and good-home cooked meals. All perfect comfort food spots.

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18 | PAYSON ROUNDUP

FALL/WINTER 2014

Photos by Pete Aleshire/Roundup

Floundering along in Lobo’s footprints BY PETE ALESHIRE ROUNDUP EDITOR

Lord, I love snowshoes. I’d picked up my first-ever pair at Big 5. Then I packed my wolfish companion, Lobo, in the Jeep for a jaunt to the Rim, figuring I’d finally give him a workout. On foot, I have to hike myself to death to make him break a sweat — except, of course, dogs don’t sweat. I figured I could finally keep up with the hairy fellow — since I could trudge across the surface of the snowdrifts he must bound heedlessly through. But Lobo found the snow a source of endless discovery and fascination. For he had access to the secret world of snow, lost to me in my nifty snowshoes, with my dull ears and my useless nose — good only for dripping in the 15-degree cold. In truth, a whole world scurries and squirms beneath the snow — which insulates everything beneath its shroud. Snow remains mostly air, which hoards the heat in a lattice of ice crystals. A whole ecosystem thrives beneath that insulated layer. Specialized algae, bacteria and fungi go about their secret business in the snow — which breathes in and out — a constant process of vapor exchange. These organisms hum along all winter, decomposing buried plant matter and sustaining an ecosystem of mites and spiders and species of insects blessed with natural antifreeze. Those fungi, algae, insulated plants and insects in their turn sustain mice and shrews and squirrels, which live in burrows and tunnels along the underside of downed logs. And those squirrels and mice in their turn sustain foxes and coyotes and other eager creatures that pad through the snow, stopping to sniff and listen for the furtive signs of life beneath the surface. Wolves have long hunted happily in the snow, taking advantage of the distress of deer and elk. One study I read found that the deeper the snow, the better the hunting for wolves that live on deer. The wolves bound through the snow more readily than the fleet-footed, sharp-hooved deer. Recalling that conclusion, I stopped to watch Lobo cock his head alertly, then bury his cold, pointy nose in a snowdrift. He burrowed in, rooted about, but came up empty — his face frosted. He has a two-layer coat, which leaves drifts of hair-

balls in my living room twice a year — but that serves him well in the snow. Lobo looked back, grinning ear to pointed ear, before bounding on ahead. He stopped at the base of a huge, old-growth ponderosa — its red, vanilla-scented bark deeply plated and vivid against the pure white of the snow. Lobo dug experimentally, then again buried his head. He emerged in triumph a moment later. I shuffled forward to look. Lobo had a mouth full of coyote scat. “Good, grief, Lobo. Drop it,” I hollered. He dropped it and grinned, not a bit abashed. We mushed on for a couple of hours — all the way to a snatch-your-breath view from the edge of the Mogollon Rim, a perfect day in the unbroken snow. I stood in the buzzing silence. Then we turned and headed back to the car, Lobo as eager as ever, me growing tired. I crunched through the snow, my smug sense of superiority waning. “No telling what you’d do with snowshoes,” I said as he came up behind. He stepped deftly on the back of my snowshoe and I pitched head-first into the snow. I came up a sputtering, put my arm out to rise — and sank in to my armpit. Floundering like a drowning man with brain damage, I struggled to get my oversized feet under me. I got one foot half placed, but the edge of the snowshoe slid into the snow, pitching me sideways. Rolling over on my back like a beached whale, I stared a moment at the startling blue sky, before flopping over onto my stomach. Trying to rise from a crouch, I did another face-plant. Lobo must have figured I was looking for shrews. Finally, I rose by sheer force of will and accumulated humiliation flailing for my balance. Lobo sat at a distance with his head cocked, trying to make sense of the game. I gathered up my frozen dignity. “What are you looking at?” I demanded. He grinned, but said nothing. “Oh, yeah?” I said. “Well. I’m not the one eating coyote crap,” I added haughtily. He grinned, turned and bounded off through the snow, the world made new, wonderfully full of hidden scat.


FALL/WINTER 2014

PAYSON ROUNDUP | 19

Peach Loop hike offers challenges, views BY KEITH MORRIS ROUNDUP STAFF REPORTER

Ready for a new hiking adventure, my dogs, Bear and Baily, and I hopped in the car and set out searching for the Peach Loop Trail. The 2.6-mile trail begins on the Peach Orchard Trailhead off of Country Club Road across from Payson Golf Course, with parking available. I know it’s not wise to hike an unfamiliar trail late in the day because you might end up lost and hiking in the dark. Well, I didn’t know much about the trail, but am ready for just about anything and, so off we went at 5 p.m. The Peach Loop Trail covers 2.6 miles, including about a half-mile on the Peach Orchard Trail beginning at the trailhead. After that half-mile trek, we arrived at the start of the Peach Loop Trail and I decided to head to the right on the north leg of the trail instead of continuing down the Peach Orchard Trail for another half-mile before picking up the south leg of the Peach Loop Trail. The sign indicated it’s a challenging route. Most of the first half of the trail involves a steady climb, but nothing too difficult, with plenty of gorgeous scenery overlooking hills and valleys. We arrived at a cattle gate, which I didn’t realize I could just head on through so long as I close the cattle gate behind me. But given the dwindling light and the approaching thunderheads, I decided to head back — grateful for the downhill run. The dark clouds glowered as we turned around. A

Keith Morris/Roundup

The Peach Loop Trail is part of the 50-mile Payson Area Trails System.

few minutes later, lightning and thunder indicated we were about to get wet. And we certainly did. The sky opened and it poured as we tried to quickly make our way back. I did my best to shelter my camera beneath my coat as I slip-slid down the increasingly muddy trail. We got back to the car in the gathering dark, all of us caked with mud. Wanting to complete the entire loop, we gave the

trail a couple of days to dry and returned. I decided to go the opposite way this time to make sure I saw the entire hike. I believe this was a fortunate decision because the most difficult part of the loop is a steep slope about a mile-and-a-half from the trailhead to the southwest. Climbing that portion of the trail left all three of us thirsty, so we took a break at the summit at the sign directing us to the right to continue on the loop.

Unique bed and breakfasts in Rim Country BY TERESA MCQUERREY ROUNDUP STAFF REPORTER

Visitors to Rim Country have a variety of places to stay — there are basic, economy motels to name brands with pools (some indoor); camping sites; and recreational vehicle rental parks. For a different perspective on the area, consider a stay at a bed and breakfast.

portunity to truly experience all that the awesome Payson Rim Country has to offer. Situated on a quiet, private road, the Verde River Rock House is on a hill, with no visible neighbors. Surrounded by Tonto National Forest, the air is crisp and clean.

Up The Creek Bed & Breakfast Verde River Rock House 10491 W. Fossil Creek Rd., Strawberry, AZ 85544 (928) 476-6571 602 W. Eleanor Dr., Payson, AZ 85541 Sue Roberts, Michael and Karen Muench host guests at Up The Creek Bed & (928) 472-4304 The Verde River Rock House is along the banks of the East Verde River, a few Breakfast because of a love affair with the Strawberry area and the Rim Country. miles northeast of the community of Payson on Highway 87 and a short trip to The property was specifically constructed to become a bed and breakfast. On Valentine’s Day 2004, Up the Creek Bed and Breakfast opened. Pine and Strawberry. Guests are welcomed to stay and enjoy the beauty and unmatched peace and The Rock House offers a unique retreat — combining modern comforts and warm hospitality in a casually elegant setting. Guests will experience the warmth tranquility of the Rim Country in the quiet elegance of a contemporary farmhouse of staying with good friends along with all the comforts and privacy afforded by located in rural Strawberry, Ariz. Up the Creek Bed and Breakfast is a peaceful respite to relax and rejuvenate. a fine hotel. It is the goal of owners Maggie and Steve Evans to give guests the op-

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20 | PAYSON ROUNDUP

FALL/WINTER 2014

Fossil Creek: ‘Outstandingly remarkable’ BY PETE ALESHIRE ROUNDUP EDITOR

Even in winter, Fossil Creek makes a perfect jaunt from a base in Rim Country. You’ve got two choices, when it comes to finding a way to visit one of the most remarkable treasures in Arizona — a gush of crystal clear water over waterfalls and through deep pools warmed by a thousand-year underground journey even in the winter. You can drive out Fossil Creek Road through Strawberry, park at the Fossil Creek trailhead and take the steep, beautiful trail down to the spring that feeds the travertine creek. It’s actually a better hike in the fall and winter, with cooler temperatures on the exposed slopes. But it requires top conditioning and good hiking boots to avoid suffering as a result of the 1,700-foot elevation change. The trail’s only 3.1 miles, but will take about six hours to cover — with slow going on the way out. On the other hand, you can hit Fossil Creek on your way home, if you’re heading for the Valley and take Highway 87 through Pine, back up onto the Rim and then down toward the Verde Valley. The Fossil Creek Road connects to the highway just outside of Camp Verde. The creek itself lies down the end of a 15-mile dirt road. So a drive to Fossil Creek makes either a perfect day trip from Rim Country — or a perfect stop on the way home to the Valley after savoring the pleasures of Payson and Pine. Visiting Fossil Creek in the fall yields a burst of fall colors and in the winter offers an escape from the summer crowds that mob the place every weekend. Either way, you’ll find one of the most remarkable streams in the southwest as your reward for the journey. The federal government has designated the creek as a “wild and scenic river,” which means the Forest Service is developing a plan to protect its “outstandingly remarkable” values when it comes to recreation, geology and water, fish and aquatic resources, wildlife, history and traditional uses. A recent report summarized what makes Fossil Creek unique.

tected as national parks. The travertine is really dissolved limestone. The water gushing from the spring fell as rain and snow atop the Rim thousands of years ago. It emerged saturated with calcium carbonate from the limestone under 150 times the atmospheric pressure. As a result, the water deposits about 10 tons of calcium carbonate along the stream bed every day, building intricate, drip-castle check dams that create safe havens for aquatic creatures and plants. The springs at the headwaters of the creek produce a consistent flow of 40 to 52 cubic feet per second, twice the flow of any other spring in Rim Country.

Fish and Aquatic Resources The effort to rid the 17-mile stretch of creek of non-native fish and efforts to reintroduce endangered natives has made Fossil Creek the most diverse and important native fish refuge in the state. The creek now harbors seven native fish on the threatened or endangered list, with more reintroductions possible. Native fish include the headwater chub, roundtail chub, speckled dace, longfin dace, Sonoran sucker, desert sucker, spikedace, loach minnow, Gila topminnow, Colorado pikeminnow, and razorback sucker. With almost every native fish in danger as a result of devastating changes in almost every stream and river in the state, Fossil Creek offers an invaluable refuge for these ancient lineages.

Wildlife Riparian areas take up 1 percent of the land in Arizona, but play an essential role in the life cycle of more than 90 percent of the state’s wildlife species. Surveys have documented 200 species of birds, mammals, reptiles and amphibians — but biologists say the creek can likely support 300 additional species. An astonishing 83 species found along the creek are on the federal threatened and endangered lists. That includes the Mexican spotted owl, southwestern willow flycatcher, Yuma lapper rail, Lowland leopard frog, Chiricahua leopard frog, black hawks, zone-tailed hawks, American dipper, Bell’s vireo, Lucy’s warbler, belted kingfisher, peregrine falcon and Cost’s hummingbird. The recovering cottonwoods, willows, alders, walnuts, ash, sycamores and other plants Pete Aleshire/Roundup also provide possible refuge for a host of Fossil Creek fits easily into a Rim Country adventure. The warm, spring-fed stream either struggling bat species, like the red, Allen’s Recreation makes a day-long adventure or the perfect stop on the way to the Valley. lappet-browed, spotted, Western mastiff Water gushes from a series of springs and pale Townsend’s big-eared bats. River at the head of Fossil Creek at a consistent 70 degrees, then runs down through a otters have moved into the creek from the Verde River. The stream may also pronarrow canyon to create a spectacular series of waterfalls, spillovers and swim- vide a place to reintroduce endangered Mexican and narrow-headed garter ming holes. Unknown for a century as the state developed because Arizona Pub- snakes, which both hunt prey in the water. lic Service diverted all the water to run a hydro-electric power plant, the decommissioning of the plant and the return of the water to the creek bed in 2005 History and Traditional Uses instantly created one of the most remarkable recreational spots in a thirsty, A limited number of archaeological sites show the canyon 600 years ago desert state. Public use exploded, peaking last year at nearly 100,000 visitors. formed a boundary between the Hohokam and the Southern Sinagua cultures. Fire-related closures this year reduced visitation. Human use of the canyon probably goes back at least 10,000 years. The Apache A 2009 survey found that almost none of the visitors came from out of state, likely entered the area by A.D. 1500 and occupied the canyon seasonally until U.S. since Fossil Creek remains largely unknown nationally. Only 16 percent of the military campaigns against them in the 1860s and 1870s forced most of them to visitors came from Rim Country on the busy summer weekends represented in the settle first in the Verde Valley and then on the San Carlos Reservation. The ansurvey. About 58 percent came from the Valley, with the cool deep pools less than cestors of the Tonto Apache were included in this war and exile. However, some two hours from the fifth-largest city in the country and its 115-degree summers. Apache families eluded the Army and continued to live secretly along Fossil Creek. Even those families had drifted away by the time the first settler homeGeology and water steaded the canyon in 1906. Soon after that began the construction of the reOnly three other travertine-dominated streams exist in North America — all markable hydroelectric plant that by 1920 supplied 70 percent of the electricity for protected in national parks. That includes Havasupai and a stretch of the Little Phoenix. The hydroelectric plant provided a source of jobs that drew many Colorado River in the Grand Canyon and Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone. Apache families back to the canyon. However, by the 1950s the power plant auSites elsewhere include Agua Azul in Mexico and Plitvice in Croatia, also pro- tomated most of the tasks and the Apache again drifted away.


FALL/WINTER 2014

PAYSON ROUNDUP | 21

Tonto National Monument: Lost worlds BY PETE ALESHIRE ROUNDUP EDITOR

Tonto National Monument overlooking Roosevelt Lake a half-hour drive from Payson offers a yearround glimpse of an ancient civilization. Even on a snowy winter day in Payson, the monument offers a quick escape to the warmth of the Sonoran desert. The 1,100-acre monument protects 75 known prehistoric sites and draws about 80,000 visitors annually. The monument mostly exists to protect several cliff dwellings laboriously built and mysteriously abandoned by a group dubbed the Salado, who occupied the Tonto Basin and the upper reaches of the Salt River between about A.D. 1100 and about A.D. 1450. However, researchers have also found evidence of sites dating back 8,000 years. The Salt River’s meandering course through the Tonto Basin formed the heartland of the Salado, who ultimately built great settlements every couple of miles along the river marked by walled compounds and giant platform mounds — major dwellings built on top of handmade mounds. The Salado occupied a vital crossroads and built sophisticated irrigation works to channel water from the drought and flood-prone Salt River onto fields planted with corn, beans, squash and cotton. They created intricate textiles and a distinctive type of pottery with a vivid abstract design that spread throughout the Southwest. The ruins yielded turquoise, bronze bells, parrot feathers, shells and other signs that the Salado participated in thriving trade networks that included the densely settled civilizations of Mexico, coastal California, New Mexico and Colorado. By the same token, the beautiful Salado pottery spread throughout the region. Usually, the pottery showed up in burials or other contexts in which it seemed to play a role in ceremonies. In one intriguing link, the massive settlement of Casas Grandes in northern Mexico included virtual warehouses of Salado pottery, suggesting that in that region the distinctive design might have become a hot trading item. Archaeologists still fiercely debate whether the Salado just occupied the Tonto Basin and the associated highlands or whether they spread out as widely as their pottery. Some archaeologists argue that the Salado developed a distinct culture and religion at this crossroads between north and south, and then spawned a religious movement or cult that spread along with the distinctive pottery style. After centuries of occupation along the river, the Salado began building impressive, but remote, cliff dwellings in the surrounding highlands — including the two major sets of ruins.

Pete Aleshire/Roundup

Tonto National Monument overlooks Roosevelt Lake and the Tonto Basin and preserves 800-year old ruins and 8,000-year old archaeological sites.

No one knows for sure why the Salado went to the enormous effort of building these more easily defended cliff dwellings, only to abandon them after a few generations — but similar shifts were taking place all across the Southwest at the same time. Some archaeologists argue that the Salado faced attacks from neighboring groups or invaders. The Salado were probably founded originally by people moving into the area from the Hohokam heartland in the Phoenix area — but archaeologists don’t know whether the Salado eventually came into conflict with the Hohokam. They might have also clashed with the mountain people to the north. The Salado towns also incorporated many elements that link them to the complex civilizations to the north, the Ancestral Puebloean or Anasazi, who built the great stone fortresses like Chaco Canyon in New Mexico and Mesa Verde in Colorado. This blending of elements for the other civilizations, the long occupation and the complex relationship between the people living along the river and the people in the uplands, make the study of the Salado vital in understanding the larger trends in the Southwest, said Duane Hubbard, park archaeologist. In addition, the ongoing studies in the monument connect directly to one of the most ambitious archaeological projects in history. Most of the layered Salado ruins lay down along the river. The construction of Roosevelt Dam in 1906 to provide water and flood control for the Valley sub-

merged most of those ruins. But a decade ago, in the process of raising the height of the dam to provide flood control and additional water storage, the water uses funded an unprecedented series of studies of the ruins along the river — exposed when SRP lowered the lake level, first to work on the dam, then as a result of the drought. Researchers gathered a massive amount of information on the settlement patterns, artifacts, farming, growth patterns and other aspects of the Salado civilization. The research raised fascinating new questions about the spread of Salado pottery and ideas and the relationship between the river people and the highlands people. For instance, a detailed analysis showed that the people living in the uplands at places like the monument were economically selfsufficient and not mere satellites of the irrigationbased towns of the core area. The discovery that people were building the great towns along the river at the same time they were building virtual fortresses in the uplands remains intriguing and largely unexplained. Perhaps they were both reacting to external threats — or perhaps drought or overuse of resources required larger and larger communal efforts to survive. To get there: Drive 17 miles south of Payson on Highway 87 to State Highway 188; turn left on 188 (southeast) and drive 39 miles to Tonto National Monument. The park is open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., except Christmas Day. The Lower Cliff Dwelling trail closes to uphill travel at 4 p.m.

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22 | PAYSON ROUNDUP

FALL/WINTER 2014

The soothing waters of Rim Country BY TERESA MCQUERREY ROUNDUP STAFF REPORTER

My family has been in the Rim Country since December 1970. We’re not pioneers by any stretch of the imagination, but living some place for nearly 45 years certainly gives you an educated perspective on things here. So, after almost 45 years, what are my favorite places? I would have to say anywhere in the Rim Country where there is water – a big or little lake, or best of all, a flowing creek. If I need a bit of a mental health break from the newspaper business, I try to steal away to the emptiest parking lot by the big lake at Green Valley Park. Sometimes I might take a book or magazine, but usually I just like to sit and watch the light play across the water. I choose the least occupied parking lot because I don’t want the voices and movements of other visitors intruding. But it’s a popular spot and it’s rare to find no one else in any of the parking lots with lake views. In the past, if I were blessed with a free afternoon I would drive up to the Kohl’s Ranch area and then toward the fish hatchery. I’d pull off in a wide spot in the road, get out and walk down to the creek, find a rock, sit down and just listen to the water and breathe deep. The sound and smell were ambrosia. This was always during the week, after the paper was shipped and there was some time before work had to start on the next edition. It also meant there was — at least in those years — hardly anyone else visiting the creek. When I was still in high school, my mother, sisters and I would take an occasional outing to Tonto Natural Bridge for the hike and to enjoy the chill of Pine Creek and on occasion the icy water of the swimming pool that used to be on the grounds of the historic lodge. Eventually it became infested with algae and leeches

and finally was filled in and covered over. A couple of times we went in the other direction, heading out over the narrow, rough road to Flowing Springs. I am not a camper and I don’t like fishing, but one summer, probably 15 years ago — or more — I had the itch to go camping. My mother and stepfather were up at Wood’s Canyon or Willow Springs Lake — I can’t remember which. I talked my sisters into joining them. We drove up and as we were helping put up the tent it started raining — and lightning (it was summer after all, and the monsoon season has started). So, there we were, standing on wet ground holding the aluminum tent poles in the lightning. We managed to get the thing put up without being fried, started a campfire and were drying off and warming up. Meanwhile, our mother was in their motor home, which was always packed like a sardine can. They operated on the premise that if you didn’t know exactly what to bring along, you brought everything you could think of — at least that is the way it seemed to me. She had started dinner in a slow cooker earlier in the day and was getting things out to serve. We settled in to have supper and then someone discovered a chunk of glass in the meal — I don’t think it was me; but we were all shocked and reluctant to eat anything more. Finally our mother admitted when she was getting something out of the cabinet over the slow cooker, things had fallen out and broken the glass lid into the contents. She’d tried to fish out most of the glass, but had obviously missed some of it. In spite of the fact that we were put at risk fooling around with metal tent poles in a lightning storm and fed glass-infused food, it was still a nice, lakeside outing. Though I have to admit, I have not had an itch to go camping since. Still, being by water in the Rim Country is one of my favorite places to be.

Kids delight in Tonto Creek Fish Hatchery BY KELLY GRIFFITH ROUNDUP INTERN

As we turn off of East Highway 260 onto Tonto Creek Road, 21 miles east of Payson, our black lab, Jazzy, can’t wait to get out and explore the terrain. She whines and vocalizes with excitement and anticipation the further up the road we get. Cars sit parked alongside the road, as drivers wander off to and enjoy the brisk fall day. We noticed people camping alongside the road, but the signage warns against camping within 400 yards of the creek. The narrow road hugs the creek on one side and is surrounded by an abundance of nature on the opposite side; ponderosa pines, juniper, random manzanita and ivy climbing up tree trunks. As we approach the Tonto Creek Fish Hatchery entrance, we note the sign stating: “Hatchery Trailhead open 7:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.” Jazzy can finally make her escape! She barrels out of the Jeep and immediately begins chasing the first thing she sees, the shadow of a butterfly. The pleasant sound of the creek is the first thing we notice, the girls run to explore the creek, the dog cheerfully tags along. She plunged immediately into the creek (the smell of wet dog awaits us for the ride home). Jazzy shakes right in front of the girls and splatters them with creek water; they squeal and laugh! The youngest belts out, “A trail!” With genuine excitement, her older sister and Jazzy head for the trail. The youngest again belts out, “Wait up!” and scurries after them.

As we head up to the hatchery, the girls make sure we have quarters for the fish food dispensers (we’ve been here before). Many of the tanks sit vacant this time of year, with the youngest fish in the lower tanks and the more mature fish higher up. The hatchery produces and stocks over 165,000 catchable rainbow trout, 400,000 brook and cutthroat trout and 150,000 Apache trout. Jazzy bounds past, narrowly missing a chance to knock Dad into one of the stocking tanks. A couple other families troll around exploring, checking everything out. We finally reach the visitor’s center, a sort of minimuseum with views of the incubation and production rooms. Along the top of the walls are preserved fish displayed with plaques next to each one stating the type of fish, the size and where it lived. Also, there’s a model of the fish hatchery encased in plexiglass for protection, which was built by Larry L. Peterson in 1935. Crews built the original hatchery in 1934 then in 1985 converted it to a workshop. Done exploring the hatchery and visitor’s center, we head back down the road for a picnic. Tufts of grass and beautiful fall colors — bright red, yellow, green and gold — line the road. We finish lunch on the aluminum picnic table, just off the side of the road alongside the creek. Jazzy remains in “happy dog,” mode, eager to explore some more! We trample through more tufts of grass on the trail and rocks covered with lichen. The youngest calls out, “A hairy field!” The girls race along the

makeshift trail alongside the creek. The youngest again calls out, “Daddy, do you think there’s a good spot to cross the creek?” “Not unless you’re a good rock hopper,” he replies in amusement. Jazzy’s jumping amongst the grass and hillside. “Puffer fish,” the oldest calls out, regarding the tufts of grass surrounding us, then the youngest belts out, “‘Cat In The Hat’ grass!” We spot a rock with remnants of fish bait where someone had been fishing alongside a deep hole in the shallow stream. “There’s a deep pool right there!” says Dad. Headed back to town on Highway 260, the youngest says, “Maybe next time we can go to China and ride a panda!” The sun glares on the windshield as we glide down the canyon. I tip my hat forward to deflect the sun while I listen to the chatter and singing of the girls in the back seat as Dad drives us back to civilization with talk about planning a camping trip next weekend. Approaching Star Valley, we see vehicles with bicycles strapped to the back and truck beds full of camping gear heading back home ... perhaps down to the Valley. I keep the brim of my hat low, the sun glare is an annoyance on the way home ... wishing we’d never left the mountains and can’t wait to return. Just up the road four miles from the Tonto Creek Road turnoff is Christopher Creek ... where another adventure awaits us!


FALL/WINTER 2014

PAYSON ROUNDUP | 23

LOCAL NEWS If it’s happening in the Rim Country, read all about it in the Payson Roundup. Your community newspaper since 1937.

PAYSON ROUNDUP Call (928) 474-5251, ext. 108 to subscribe.

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Your gift supports RIM COUNTRY SENIORS and DISABLED Payson Senior Center utilizes tax credit donations to support our Meals-On-Wheels and Dial-A-Ride Programs for our seniors and disabled. Also, you can claim the Working Poor Tax Credit in addition to tax credits to public school programs and private school tuition. For more information you can visit: State of Arizona Department of Revenue Charitable Tax Credit or contact the Payson Senior Center at 928-474-4876

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