RIM COUNTRY
ADVENTURES GUIDE TO RIM COUNTRY RECREATION
Fall/Winter 2011
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RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES I PAGE 5
Rim Country dilemma: What to do?
T
he river burbles. The leaves tremble. The light slants. The elk laments. Oh, my, another Rim Country dilemma: What to do, what to do? That’s the worst thing about living in Rim Country — the unrelenting choices. Should I grab my fly rod and go after the holdover brown trout lurking in Haigler Creek — or maybe the stocked rainbows in Payson’s Green Valley Lake? Should I hop on my mountain bike and huff and puff down Cracker Jack Mine Road? Should I limber up my camera and capture the lurid rush of fall in the branches of the cottonwoods along the East Verde River? Should I antique shop in downtown Pine, stock up on award-winning goat cheese from the Fossil Creek Creamery or rattle on down to Fossil Creek for my last swimming hole experience before winter closes in? Should I nip up to Woods Canyon Lake in hopes the resident bald eagles still linger, hike the trail along Tonto Creek, grab lunch at the cozily historic lodge at Kohl’s Ranch or collect a dozen 200-mile views from atop the Rim along Forest Road 300 before the first snowfall shuts it down? Then again, maybe I should just sit here in the bend of the river and let the day unfold, while fall still quivers in the breeze. Such pressure, deciding what to do with a golden day. So I guess I’ll sit here a while longer and listen to the sea serpent call of bull elk, defending their harem’s from all takers. Poor bulls in the rut get so addled and pressed by horny young males that they’ll scarcely eat for the six weeks of the rut and drop 40 percent of their body weight. So I guess I ain’t got it so bad, trying to decide on my day. But you go ahead and check out our fall visitors guide, with all sorts of suggestions for disposing of your day. Then check back with me. I have a feeling I’ll still be here. PAGE 6 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
Table of contents Hidden treasure: P-8
A golfer’s delight: P-32
Heart of Arizona: P-14
Pine history tour: P-34
Hunting challenge: P-20
Natural wonder: P-36
Mountain biking: P-22
Zane Grey Museum: P-40
Quilters rock: P-24
Calendar of Events: P-44
Fall color blowout: P-26
RIM COUNTRY
ADVENTURES
To advertise in future recreation guides call Bobby Davis, advertising director, (928) 474-5251 ext. 105, or e-mail bdavis@payson.com
To purchase any of the photos in this edition e-mail us at editor@payson.com
708 N. Beeline Highway • PO Box 2520 • Payson, AZ 85547 • (928) 474-5251 • www.payson.com No portion of the Rim Country Adventures recreation guide may be used in any manner without the expressed written consent of the publisher. The Rim Country Adventures recreation guide is published by Roundup Publishing, a division of WorldWest Limited Liability Company. © 2011
RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES I PAGE 7
East Verde River offers refuge for wildlife, hikers
Pay a visit to a Rim Country secret Story by Pete Aleshire Photographs by Tom Brossart
The East Verde River remains one of Rim Countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most satisfying and intimate secrets. Lined with cottonwoods and sycamores that blaze yellow and gold in the fall, the river offers hiking trails, swimming holes, streamside camping spots â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and one of the most diverse and productive wildlife habitats in North America. Biologists have concluded that such cottonwood-willow habitats produce the greatest biomass and the greatest diversity of species of any system in North America, but dams, diversions and dropping water tables have destroyed or degraded 90 percent of the streamside cottonwood-willow galleries in Arizona. The East Verde starts with springs gushing from the base of the Mogollon Rim, water that fell thousands of years ago and seeped through the 1,000-feet of limestone until it escaped again into the sunlight. The river gathers up more recent rains as it tumbles through Rim Country, clear in the winter then silt-brown in the summer as it passes through berms and slides. Human beings have sought its solace for at least 10,000 years, from the spear-wielding mammoth hunters who left their Clovis stone spearheads to the Mogollon people who farmed stream terraces and left a scattering of stone ruins before vanishing in the 1400s. Then came the Apache with a rich, deep-rooted and resourceful culture and finally the ranchers and the loggers and the retirees and refugees from the hurtle of modern life. The East Verde flows along Houston Mesa Road, crosses over into East Verde Estates, drops down past Doll Baby Ranch toward its distant junction with the Verde River. The Verde system drains nearly 7,000 square miles and harbors an astonishing diversity of wildlife. One survey found the highPAGE 10 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
The East Verde River flows along Houston Mesa Road, crosses over into East Verde Estates and drops down past Doll Baby Ranch toward its junction with the Verde River.
est density of nesting birds ever recorded in North America along a cottonwood-graced stretch of the Verde River. The Verde once supported 16 different species of native fish, although only 10 remain. It also harbors many species of introduced fish and more than 200 different species of birds. Some 90 percent of the critters in Arizona depend on such riparian areas for some crucial stage of their lives. The river has provided a place for several dwindling species to make their last stand, like the black hawks that pluck crayfish from the water and leave piles of cracked claws, Mexican garter snakes that undulate through the water chasing frogs and Verde trout that hunt insect nymphs that could each star in their own monster movie if they werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t so small. The giant deep-barked cottonwoods dominate the stretches of river closest to RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES I PAGE 11
The well-stocked East Verde River is a popular place for adults and children to fish through early fall.
Payson, along with the sensuously white-boled sycamore. They create a whole world in layers for squirrels, possums, raccoons and birds by the thousands. But more different trees crowd the river’s banks than almost any other stream in the West, as it drops through one life zone after another. This includes Arizona walnuts and Arizona ashes, towering ponderosas and squat pinons, Arizona cypress, alders and elders. Here white, Emory, Gambel and Palmer oaks divide up each niche according to elevation, not to mention the one-seed, Utah and alligator junipers and both the desert and Goodding willows. If that’s not enough, you can also find soapberry, mulberry, hackberry and chokecherry. The river reflects the seasons — the angular austerity of winter, the green haze of the first leaves, the riotous green of August, the brilliance of fall, the ritual mourning of the fallen leaves, the exhilarating rush of summer floods, the cold, sullen fury of winter storms, the smell of damp earth and new grass and decaying leaves and approaching storms. The Apache believed that such places would not only feed them, but sustain their spirits — and teach them how to live a full and balanced life. They said that “wisdom sits in places.” They said that every man must work all his life to have a “smooth mind.” They said that natural places could enlarge your soul and make you steady, wise, kind and strong. PAGE 12 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
But you have to open yourself to that place by sitting and listening. A good Buddhist will tell you the same thing — and so will the Book of Psalms, which reads: “He maketh me to lie down in green pastures. He leadeth me beside the still waters.”
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RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES I PAGE 13
Many paths lead to the Rim Country Author shares his journey to East Verde home Story by Pete Aleshire Roundup staff
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ou never can predict by what path people will find heaven. Just ask anyone who lives in Rim Country how they ended up here — and you’ll likely get a fascinating story. In my case, I had to get fired from a big job in a big city, go into a total panic and grasp at a job at the Roundup like it was the last piece life-ring on an empty sea. Turns out, I’d been looking for Payson all my life and ended up with a little house overlooking the East Verde River in a town where everyone acts like a neighbor. So now I always ask how people got here. One friend just happened to be driving through Payson on a vacation and recognized it immediately as the place he wanted to retire. So he spent the next 10 years building his retirement dream house, then settling in for the duration. One friend couldn’t stand one more year fuming while traveling to and from work in a 90-minute commute — so he threw a dart at a map on the wall, cashed out and moved to Payson — virtually sight unseen. Another friend was born here, couldn’t wait to shake the small-town blues after high school, but came back for good seven years later when she realized her heart was buried on the banks of the East Verde. Funny how life works out — so like a river — all pools, riffles, flood debris, stubborn roots, floods, droughts and blind corners. I think about that, sitting here alongside the East Verde River, right where a little tributary creek cascades into the larger flow — tinted turquoise-blue with travertine, dissolved limestone laid down on some long-vanished sea bottom. Overhead, a storm is gathering — working itself up to something spectacular. The stripped electrons have not quite built up sufficiently in the roiling clouds to begin the lightning display. In the pool in front of me, trout have begun to rise — testing the floating flies and the darting larva of one of the Southwest’s best little streams — spring-fed and undammed. The moment is perfect. Suddenly, a big elk emerges from the thick screen of trees upstream. He pauses, sniffs the air and then turns his ponderous antlered head toward me, regarding me with wary disdain. PAGE 14 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
Tom Brossart photo
RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES I PAGE 15
Tom Brossart photo
Writer Pete Aleshire tries his hand at fly-fishing in Tonto Creek.
I just shake my head. There goes God: Overdoing again. The place has soothed and saved me — in moments just like this with the sound of water all around as I receive the blessing of the elk. Just for emphasis, a big old rainbow clears the water in front of me, falling back to the stream with a glad splash. So, I thought I would share this blessing a little. I offer it not only because the Rim Country is an unexpectedly wonderful place — but because my list of favorites also proves that things work out, if you can just stop thrashing, turn on your back and let the current take you.
East Verde River An all-but-unknown treasure, save to the locals who live along its banks. The river gushes from a spring up above Washington Park, runs for 15 miles along Houston Mesa Road, crosses the highway at Flowing Springs Road, flows past East Verde Estates and on down through miles of wilderness canyon far from the road. You can fish and hike, splash about at several sites along Houston Mesa and Flowing Springs Roads, just outside of PAGE 16 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
Payson. The Salt River Project is now releasing 40 cubic feet per second into the stream at Washington Park, which has dramatically increased its flows and left the water clear and clean and cold. The stretch of river that runs through Whispering Pines along Forest Road 269 is particularly nice and well stocked with trout in the summer. It’s a treasure: please protect it.
Tonto Creek From Payson, head east up Highway 260 through Star Valley toward the Mogollon Rim. In about 18 miles, you’ll come to Tonto Creek. If you turn north off the highway, you’ll follow a dirt road up and along the trout-stocked creek. Eventually, you’ll hit the Tonto Creek Fish Hatchery, which produces the fish that stock all of the Rim Country streams. You can take a tour of the hatchery. You can find places to park all along that road leading up to the hatchery and head down to the creek. The creek gets heavy use during summer weekends, but even then, you can hike up and down the creek and find your own little swimming hole. Alternatively, you can turn off
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RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES I PAGE 17
Tom Brossart photo
With travertine formations on its banks and clear aquamarine water running through it, Fossil Creek attracts visitors from around Arizona.
Highway 260 before you get to the hatchery road and make your way down the narrow dirt road to Bear Flat, where you can evade some of the crowds on prime weekends. By the way — Tonto Creek also boasts one of the best places to stay in Rim Country, the marvelous and historic Kohl’s Ranch, which rents cabins and horses right on the banks of Tonto Creek.
Fossil Creek Fall’s the perfect time to visit Fossil Creek, since you’re spared the crowds but get to savor a riot of fall color — usually starting in late October and early November. Drive to Pine on Highway 87 and take the Fossil Creek Road turnoff at the Strawberry Lodge. Be sure to make a stop at the Fossil Creek Creamery where you can pet the goats and llamas and stock up on their award-winning goat milk fudge. Then return to the road and hairpin down into the canyon, although you may have to squeeze to the side and wait to let other traffic pass. During the summer, the Forest Service now limits access by car on PAGE 18 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
the weekends, but in the fall and winter you can still be spontaneous. About five years ago, Arizona Public Service shut down a hydroelectric plant that had diverted the spring-fed waters of the creek from its bed for a century and returned the river to its bed, creating one of the most remarkable places in Arizona. The gushing spring is laden with travertine, dissolved limestone that forms dams and drip castles — and tints the long succession of crystal-clear, turquoise-blue pools. The stream had become one of the best refuges in the world for native fish like Verde trout, headwater chub and Sonoran suckers. The Forest Service has banned camping and fires near the creek to protect it from heavy use. Make sure you never leave without hauling out a bag full of litter left by the idiots.
Forest Road 300 Check weather conditions, since the Forest Service will close the road with the first snowfall. About 30 miles northeast of Payson, Highway 260 tops out on the Mogollon Rim
Tom Brossart photo
Fall is a perfect time to fish one of the Rim lakes. The crowds are gone and there are still some whoppers left for the hooking.
— a 200-mile long chain of 1,000-foot-high limestone cliffs that defines the southern edge of the Colorado Plateau. On the way up to the Rim on Highway 260, you’ll pass the Christopher Creek Loop turnoff, a worthy detour if you want to have lunch at the rustic, homey Creekside Steak House. You can also rent creekside cabins here. Right after you top out on the Rim, you cross Forest Road 300. This historic wagon trail hugs the edge of the Rim in both directions. Go right, and you skirt the White Mountain Apache Reservation and end up in Show Low. Go left and you pass a couple of beautiful lakes well stocked with trout and often attended by bald eagles. Bear Canyon Lake is one of the most popular fishing spots in the whole state. The road winds for miles along the edge of forever before rejoining the pavement just above Pine. Spectacular views either way — and a lot of vivid history.
Cracker Jack Mine Road Check the weather before venturing onto this great, backcountry road, since rainfall turns the clay-laced soil into gumbo. Pick up this long, sometimes rough dirt road just outside of Payson as you head toward Pine. It’s the only dirt road turnoff from the highway dignified by a stop sign. The road leads through the woods down to the East Verde River, crosses the river, then continues along the high plateau as it winds down toward another crossing of the Verde River at Doll Baby Ranch. The road demands a high clearance vehicle — preferably with four-wheel drive. It’s treacherously muddy in the spring or after a big rain — don’t go near it when it’s wet. But otherwise, it provides a scenic, relatively unvisited backroad adventure, with access to water at several points. RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES I PAGE 19
Bow hunting a Payson pastime Story by by Michele Michele Nelson Nelson Story Roundup staff Roundup staff reporter
camouflage, boots, calls, scenting and de-scenting sprays, blinds, and even guide services can be found at the shop. “You guys are a great shop. I’m from Mesa and you guys The dawn seeps over the horizon, tanning the sky orange beat any shop here in the Valley in customer service by far. I and pink. The crisp, fall air smells fresh, with the sharpness of spent 20 minutes with the owner last year in the range and my pine. Suddenly, the high-pitched bugle of a bull elk pierces the groups have gotten so much better due to his advice. Now I beat all my friends when we go out and shoot archery,” wrote Matt silence. It’s that time of year again, when a hunter’s pulse quickens Kennedy on Chasin a Dream’s Facebook page. Others stop by to tell stories. One hunter who visited the — hunting season. shop told of an elk hunt: From Labor Day until the spring, each week will rotate He was hunting on the Rim and shot a bull elk around the through different hunting methods: bow, muzzle loading and rifle. Hunters may gather mule deer, white tail, elk, turkey, area of the lungs. He returned to camp to resume the chase in bighorn sheep, and javelina — if the Arizona Game and Fish De- the morning. Getting up early, he and his friends found the blood trail and followed it to a steep canyon where all trace of the partment grants them a tag through its lottery process. With an average of 135,000 people spending an estimated elk disappeared. After searching for three days, they finally gave up. He returned home empty handed from that hunt. A week later, out on a different hunt, he saw the bull elk he had shot herding his cows around. Curious how his shot didn’t mortally wound the animal, he consulted an expert who told him it is possible to shoot an elk in an area below the back and up from the shoulder that completely misses any vital organs. The elk can actually pull the arrow out, rip off hair from its chest and plug the hole to stop the bleeding. The hunter decided to leave that elk alone to complete its mating season. For anyone new to bow hunting, hiring a guide can make the experience much more worthwhile. In bow hunting, intimately understanding the Andy Towle photo habits and environment of the animal they wish to A local archer takes aim at a Round Valley area shooting range. hunt, gives hunters a chance to bag a worthy trophy. Many local guides spend months in the bush identifying an animal, maybe a buck whitetail or mule deer, $127 million in retail sales, hunting has a sizable economic immaybe a bull elk, then tracking it to learn exactly where the anpact on the state of Arizona. Bow hunting, the ancient art of using human muscle, vi- imal likes to eat and drink, sleep and wander. The bow hunt engages all the senses, cunning and awaresion, wood, sinew, and arrows to hunt game, has a rhythm all its own. Used for thousands of years by humans, bow hunting has ness of the hunter. They have to use the weather and powers of observation, be aware of the time of day, know the terrain, use many followers in Payson. Last year, Chasin a Dream opened on South Beeline High- the direction of the wind and study what the animal is doing — whether it’s bedding down, eating, or drinking water — to have way to accommodate this niche of hunters. The business focuses on bow hunting. Everything a bow a successful hunt. For many, bow hunting satisfies their need hunter needs from bows, arrows, sights, quivers, arrow rests, for a challenge. PAGE 20 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
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Mounta Bikin Par
Story by Alexis Bechman by Alexis Bechman Roundup staff Roundup Staff
My feet are squarely stuck to the pedals, pushing through the gears like a train steaming over the tracks of a narrow forest trail. Weaving past pines, pebbles and pine cones, my wheels never veer off course, squarely migrating the singletrack. Breath in check, bike on course, my mind settles into a groove â&#x20AC;&#x201D; letting the groove of the course carry me for hours. When done right, mountain biking is a deeply settling experience. The bend and dips have a way of straightening the mind out while leaving the legs feeling like wet noodles. But not only experts can get this high. Whether you are a beginner or expert mountain biker, PAGE 22 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
there are trails in Rim Country that fit every skill level and time frame. Two of the best rides for beginners and intermediates sit just off the Mogollon Rim on Forest Road 300. The Carr Lake Trail System and Meadow Trail to Woods Canyon Lake offer half-day adventures that boost any confidence level. For those afraid of wiping out, you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find many other bikers in the area as it is still widely unknown to the masses of pedalers.
Carr Lake Trail System Stumbling on the Carr Lake Trail System over Labor Day weekend was serendipitous for my family. Camping just a few hundred feet from the trailhead, we stumbled on the trail sys-
tain ing aradise
can be easy to feel disoriented on which trail to follow. Luckily, all of the trails interconnect. The longest route runs about nine miles, but it is easy to cut that in half by taking the Aspen, which cuts through the middle of the larger loop and is roughly 5.5 miles long. Elevation gain is minimal, so there is not any need for frequent dismounting to get over creeks and up steep slopes. With smooth singletrack through meadows most of the way, it is easy to gain speed and travel a good distance in a few hours. With a maze of other trails in the area, including the Military Sinkhole and Drew Trail, riders looking for more difficulty can easily tack additional paths onto their ride. In 2009, a local bike shop sponsored a junior race on the Carr Lake Trail System, bringing some attention to the area. Still, there aren’t many riders on the trail. In the fall, there isn’t a better place to see the leaves change from a bike than through this trail system. If you go: From Payson, head east on Highway 260 to Forest Road 300, which is just past mile marker 281. Forest Road 300 heads west, away from the Mogollon Rim visitor center. FR 300 is initially paved, but after several miles, it turns into a dirt road. Continue several more miles down 300 to Forest Road 9350. The trailhead is just down 9350 on the right.
General Crook and Meadow Trail to Woods Canyon Lake
Tom Brossart photo
The even terrain found on several Mogollon Rim trails makes it a great place to enjoy mountain biking.
tem while walking the dog at dusk. Unable to venture far due to the setting sun, we anxiously waited until morning to saddle up our bikes. The trails did not disappoint. From the trailhead, which sits at the beginning of Forest Road 9350 (a great road to camp off, with several campsites sitting on the edge of the Mogollon Rim with never-ending panoramic views), there is a restroom and horse corral. Signs mark the Aspen Trail, which heads northwest through a series of connecting loops, including the Aspen, Boulder Hop and General Crook. The loops can be ridden in either direction, although it
After a long ride through the forest, a lake with a nearby snack shack, is a welcome site. Riders looking for a destination ride will enjoy the Meadow Trail to Woods Canyon Lake. Similar in difficulty to the Carr Lake Trail System, the singletrack of the General Crook Trail dips and squiggles through open forest and meadows. There are some rocky sections, but most of the trail is packed dirt. Minimal in elevation change, but who says you need to beat your lungs to have a good ride. After pedaling several miles under the cool umbrella of ponderosa pines, the General Crook Trail hooks up with the Meadow Trail at Forest Road 105. The trail lies just a few feet from the road in most places and takes hikers and bikers on a paved path to the lake. Being paved and with several campgrounds nearby, there is usually a good number of walkers on the two-mile path. After crossing a small bridge over a marsh, the trail winds back into a forest area, where there is the good possibility of spotting elk. The trail then takes a steep descent into the lake’s parking lot, a good place to test a bike’s braking system. Heading back the same route, the whole trip takes about four miles. We started the trip from the Carr Lake Trailhead, just off Forest Road 9350. From the trailhead, head east across 9350 to the General Crook Trail, a small sign marks the way. General Crook hugs the road for a few feet, then crosses over Forest Road 300 and winds back into the woods. Head east, following the chevrons and cairn stone markers. RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES I PAGE 23
Arizona’s finest showcased at Quilt Roundup By Teresa McQuerrey Story by Teresa McQuerrey Roundup staff Roundup staff
present Raw Edge Appliqué; Perkes’ topic is Appliqué Amplified; Alexander’s class is Gentle Curved Piecing; Frost will teach Perfect Patchwork Twilight; and Hocker will have a class on Texture Scapes Embellishments. his area is called home by some of the naLectures Friday, Nov. 11 will be presented by Quilting Sistion’s best quilters and those quilters, as ters from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Wilma Hitterman will well as gifted hobbyists and novices, will demonstrate a treadle machine, both of these are free. Anhave their work displayed at the Seventh other lecture, Kick Start Your Creativity, will be presented Annual Rim Country Quilt Roundup. from 6 p.m. to 7 p.m. by Hocker and costs $10 per person. There will also be quilts coming to the show from out of the Friday classes are area. from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. The annual event is and include Schamber’s Friday, Nov. 11 through Feathers Corners Border Sunday, Nov. 13 in the & Blocks: Domestic Exhibition Hall at the Quilting; Alexander’s Mazatzal Hotel & Straight Line Piecing; Casino, off Hwy. 87 at Frost’s Beautiful Binding milepost 251 on the Again; and Hocker’s Texsoutheast side of Payson. ture Scapes. The quilt show will The Quilting Sisters be open from 10 a.m. to and Hitterman will again 7:30 p.m., Friday, Nov. be presenting lectures 11; 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., and demonstrations from Saturday, Nov. 12; and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturfrom 10 a.m. to 5:30 day, Nov. 12. p.m., Sunday, Nov. 13. Saturday classes will Admission is $3 per perbe from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. son or $2 with the donaand include Schamber’s tion of a can or package Piec-Lique Fire Flower; of nonperishable food for local food banks. ChilDennis Fendler photo Perkes’ Appliqué by Bobdren 12 and under will Wilma Hitterman will give treadle sewing machine bin; Alexander’s Creative demonstrations throughout the annual Quilt Roundup. Grid Ruler Design; be admitted at no charge. Frost’s Lone Star The annual Quilt Sparkler; and Hocker’s 3-D Thread Drawing. Roundup always features a wide selection of classes and this Perkes will present a trunk show at 11 a.m., Sunday, Nov. year is no different. Classes start the day before the exhibit, 13 and lectures by Quilting Sisters and treadle machine Thursday, Nov. 10 and continue through Monday, Nov. 14. demonstrations by Hitterman will be from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., Teaching this year will be Karla Alexander, Julie Hocker, Sunday. Gina Perkes, Sharon Schamber and Helen Young Frost. Schamber is presenting a class on Dancing Feathers: DoThe classes, except Schamber’s, will be presented at the mestic and Longarm Quilting from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., Sunday; Good Samaritan Majestic Rim Senior Apartments, 310 E. Tyler Parkway, on the northeast side of Payson. Schamber will and a class on Stipple Basic: Domestic and Longarm Quilting from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., Monday, Nov. 14. have her classes at her home studio. The classes range in cost All of the classes have limited space, so early registration from $55 to $65. is urged. Lectures and demonstrations will be at the Fireside Earlier this year, the Rim Country Quilt Roundup was Room of the casino, two of the lectures are $10 each, the balhonored by the Arizona Quilters Hall of Fame as Organizaance are free. tional Friend of the Year for 2011 for its financial support of Young will present a lecture from 6 p.m. to 7 p.m., Thursday, Nov. 10 on tricks for better quilts; this is one of the the Hall of Fame and the advancement of its mission. Check www.quiltroundup.com for more information, $10 lectures. Thursday classes are from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Schamber will class and quilt entry forms, or call (928) 472-4410.
T
PAGE 24 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
C.C. CRAGIN PIPELINE PROJECT
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A colorful carpet of fall leaves fill the forest floor in the Dane Ridge area on the Mogollon Rim .
There’s plenty of color in the Rim Country Story and photos Tom Brossart Storyby and Photos by Tom Brossart Roundup staff
I
chase the brilliance of fall foliage colors the same way I search the mountain meadows and desert for wildflowers. There is just something about the colors nature produces throughout the year that stir and excite photographers to a point of obsession at times. I (along with my wife) have spent more than a fair share of our fall time chasing down rumors and reported sightings in a PAGE 26 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
search for the best fall colors. Alleged sightings are the worst, it usually goes something like “Hey, I spotted some great aspen (or maples, pick your tree) out on Forest Road XYZ last weekend” and that is all it really takes to send some photographers (me) out, first attempting to find the correct Forest Service road — which is usually the wrong road — and second, to find where in the world on that winding road are trees showing off their best color. Sometimes you find the right trees in the right settings with the right light, other times you are one windstorm too late, but when you do hit the colors at the right time, it is a beautiful sight to behold.
So if you are up to trying to view the fall colors, the first chore is location, location, location. And patience, plenty of patience. Do as much research as possible to determine where you can find the best fall colors. The same place that was so special last year may not be the same spot this year. Also remember what you see today can be gone tomorrow with one good wind. So once you find the fall colors, how are you going to make some great photos? First there is always time of day issues. Early or late is the best, but I have also made some nice backlit photos mid-morning and mid-afternoon. The best light is usually early, at sunrise and for several hours right after, along with sunset and the time just before and after. Don’t give up when the sun goes down, with the right conditions you can make some nice images. A bright, sunny day is great for some photos, but don’t ignore a slightly overcast day, which I call cloudy-bright day, and certainly take advantage of any storm or fluffy clouds; these conditions can enhance your photos. Right after a rain, the colors will be extra nice. I suggest that you always use a polarizing filter when creating images outside. Fall foliage photos will be enhanced with a polarizing filter, as will almost any image made outdoors during the rest of the year, too. My college and workshop students always ask, “How do I know when I have set the polarizer correctly?” Good question. Look through the lens turning the polarizing filter slowly until you see the colors intensify, then stop, don’t over-polarize, as the sky will turn a deep blue-black. You want a nice blue to contrast with the colors of the trees. Remember that, in general, the lower the ISO, the better the color and the sharper the photo. With some newer digital cameras you can use higher ISO ratings, but I still feel the lower the better. There are other photographers who love to use enhancing filters, such as a warming filter or ND filters. I don’t. I just never saw the need. I like to photograph what I see, with all the shadows along with the brights. But that’s me, so don’t be afraid to try something, remember it is your vision, not mine that you are using to RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES I PAGE 27
The See Canyon Trail, which lies east of Payson off Highway 260, has leaves of every color in the fall.
create images. About any lens will work, just remember that wide-angle, normal, telephoto and macro-lens will treat the scene different. Use the lens that will enhance your vision, if you are unsure, try a different lens to determine what you like or don’t like. And use a tripod. Images will always be sharper if you use a tripod. Develop your eye, your vision — there is much more to making a good or a great photo than just pointing a camera at a scene and hoping it turns out. You need to remember the rules of composition. Use the rule of thirds to your advantage, which means don’t place the most important part of your image directly in the center. To capture many scenic or landscape images you need a large depth of field, which means the image looks sharp from near the camera to far away. For that effect you need to shoot at a slow shutter speed, say 1/30 of a second or slower — it all depends on the light. I make many photos in the 1/10 of a second range and slower to increase the lens aperture or F-stop into the F8, 11-32 range. If you have a point-and-shoot camera, look for a landscaping setting on your camera and use that. SetPAGE 28 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
ting it straight on auto will not produce the best results.
Photo tips Catch the “magic” light in the morning and evening. Direct sunlight in the middle of the day gives overly harsh, high contrast images. Use a polarizer, but be careful if you’re using a wide-angle lens and the sky is blue. With extremely wide lenses, you may see differing amounts of saturation in the sky across the frame, which can look too dark. The air is clearest in the morning and after rain, so don’t put the camera away just because you have clouds or rain. Look for color contrasts, such as bright red maple or golden aspen trees against an evergreen background. A telephoto lens can help pick out detail in the landscape as well as wide angle lenses when there is a lot of color
Where to find fall foliage Trees start turning into their fall dress as early as mid-September in the higher elevations and you can find good color in
November in the lower elevations of Arizona. One of the most striking geologic features in Arizona is the Mogollon Rim and there is plenty of fall color to be find. This steep escarpment, measured in thousands of feet and hundreds of miles, begins just across the border in New Mexico and
stretches diagonally two-thirds of the way across Arizona. As such, it forms the southern edge of the Colorado Plateau and stands as one of the most impressive overlooks in the Grand Canyon State. Forest Service Web sites say best bets for drives include the Rim Road/General Crook Trail and some of the smaller Forest Service roads, which branch off FR 300. On the Mogollon Rim take FR 95 from the Blue Ridge Office to the Rim. Another good place to search for fall color is in the Dane Ridge area, Forest Road 321 and 321C. Travel on Highway 87 east to Forest Road 95, turn right. Follow FR 95 south to the bottom of East Clear Creek Canyon. Veer left onto FR 96 and continue out of the canyon. Turn right at the Y onto FR 321. Not recommended for passenger vehicles. Another way is to take Highway 260 to Forest Road 300 then east to FR 321. Another possible fall color site is Cabin Loop Trail. The Cabin Loop Trail is the link between the earliest fire guard cabin network in this area of the Mogollon Rim and has its roots in the beginning of the Forest Service era here. The trail was developed between the General Springs Cabin, Pinchot Cabin and Buck Springs Fire Guard Station. AdministraRIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES I PAGE 29
tively, the cabins were part of the Bly Ranger District, now the Blue Ridge Office of the Mogollon Rim Ranger District. The trail passes through some of the most spectacular country in Arizona and you will encounter a variety of landforms, vegetative communities, and a number of springs and perennial water sources. Other locations are See Canyon, Horton Creek Trail, and along Tonto Creek and the East Verde River. Attractions: golden aspens, amber oaks and scarlet maples, cool temperatures, bugling elk (on the San Francisco Peaks), and great photos. Aspens are usually the first to turn, followed by crimson sumacs and maples and it usually comes to an end around the second week of October, but lower elevations will still have color into November.
Other places: Tonto Natural Bridge State Park — North of Payson on Highway 87 features the largest natural travertine bridge in the world. Visitors here will enjoy the short hike down to the bottom of the waterfalls that gently cascade over the bridge and surrounding rocks. All that water has created an ideal environment for the brilliant aspen, cottonwood and elder trees that surround the park. Tonto Creek Fish Hatchery — Located off of Highway 260 at about 6,500 feet elevation in the Tonto National Forest, this a great place to escape searing desert summer heat, or to frolic in winter snow. The hatchery and surrounding wetland area provide outstanding opportunities for learning adventures and family outings such as picnics, hiking, and observing wildlife. The wet conditions provide a great place for trees to grow, and the color is great in this area. Rim Road along the Mogollon Rim (FS roads 300, 321, 95) — This scenic roadway is one of the most pristine areas you will find in Arizona. Make sure you bring your camera and PAGE 30 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
spend some time enjoying the cool breezes and majestic scenery. Rim Road traverses a 51-mile segment of the Mogollon Rim from Highway 87 to Highway 260. Although it’s mostly dirt and has a few rough spots, it’s passable by carefully driven passenger cars. Best time for fall color is mid September to early November. For weekly reports, call the Forest Service Fall Color Hotline, 800-354-4595, or visit fs.fed.us/r3/recreation/fall-colors/ fall.shtml.
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RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES I PAGE 31
Andy Towle photo
The greens at Chaparral Pines Country Club are challenging, but the panoramic views are a joy for golfers.
Mild climate means year-round golf by Max Foster Roundup staff
Story by Max Foster Roundup staff
If year-round golf is your game of choice, the Rim
Country is the place to be. That’s because there is a trio of local golf courses — Chaparral Pines, The Rim Club and Payson Golf Course — that offer challenging holes, manicured fairways and wonderful views amidst the natural beauty of the Tonto National Forest. Also, due to Payson’s mild climate, the courses are available for play most of the year. There are also two local clubs, the Payson Men’s PAGE 32 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
Golf Association and the Payson Women’s Golf Association that host weekly tournaments from March to November, as well as play in interclub tournaments around the state. New members are always welcome and fees are very reasonable, especially when compared to the more pricey Valley-area courses. Payson Golf Course, which was built in 1959 and is located in the west part of town near Green Valley Park, is a public, 18-hole, par-71, regulation-length golf course that rewards good shots and provides a fun outing for everyone. Some consider it an ideal course for both leisure and competitive golfers. In the summer, Payson Golf Course hosts a myriad
of benefit golf tournaments open to the public almost every weekend. Among the most popular is the Jack Morris Memorial played early each summer to earn money for the Payson High School football team and to fund two college scholarships. The local Elks club also hosts a very popular benefit tournament that raises money to purchase school clothes for needy children. Local law enforcement officers, Habitat for Humanity, Arizona Public Service, a local food bank and several other organizations host benefit tournaments open to all. While playing PGC, it’s not unusual to see an abundance of wildlife including herds of elk and migrating geese. PGC has a driving range, pro shop, snack bar and is managed by Harry Parsons. Green fees are about $50. Parsons can be reached at (928) 474-2273. Chaparral Pines is a private championship golf course designed by former U.S. Open and PGA champion Dave Graham and architect Gary Panks. It was named one of Golf Digest’s “Top 10 New Private Golf Courses in the U.S.” when it opened in 1997.
Playing The Rim Club’s par-71, championship course is a dream for amateur and pro golfers alike. Golfweek magazine rated it the best course in Arizona, and the No. 17 course in the United States three years in a row. Chaparral Pines is a par-72 course with breathtaking views of the majestic Rim Country landscape. It also has an assortment of manmade lakes, streams and washes that render it a golfer’s dream course. In addition to the course, there is a swimming pool, tennis courts, state-of-the-art fitness center and clubhouse that has been the site for many fun social gatherings and family barbecues. To reach Chaparral Pines, call (928) 4721430. The Rim Club, once the exclusive hideaway of the well heeled, opened its doors last spring to the public. David Bosley, The Rim Club’s general manager, calls the shift in philosophy, “a new business model” where the club, “is now reaching out to the local community in two ways — jobs and golf opportunities.” The new model has most of the club’s facilities — including a fitness center, clubhouse, golf course, restaurant and bar — open and operating under a new budget and membership plan. The plan allows the public to play on a golf course previously off limits to everyone but homeowners in the exclusive enclave. Non-members can set up a tee time by calling, (928) 472-1470. In addition to opening the course, club membership is also available. “Membership is now open to local, Arizona and other non-property owners,” he said. In doing away with the property ownership criteria, the club also reduced fees. Memberships that once sold for $150,000 under Crescent are now available on a limited basis for $10,000. Those who visit the 29,000-square-foot clubhouse for the first time will find a magnificent building that is reminiscent of a 1800s baron’s mansion. Most first-timers can’t help but stare in awe at the club. It features a dining room, pro shop, lounges, locker rooms and extraordinary views of the Mogollon Rim and rural Granite Dells. “The Rim Club is in a world of its own and still just an hour away from the Valley,” Bosley said. For more information or to participate in one of the 2011 membership and privilege plans, call The Rim Club at (928) 472-1470. The Rim Club’s director of golf, can be reached at (928) 472-1483. RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES I PAGE 33
Tom Brossart photos
To understand the tiny mountain hamlet called Pine, visitors must stroll along the Beeline Highway, which is lined with pioneer homes, some built as early as 1879.
Visit to Pine is a stroll through history Pioneer homes standing alongside the highway, now transformed into museums, restaurants and even a honey stand By Max Foster Roundup staff
Story by Max Foster Roundup staff
The best-kept secret in the high country might be Pine’s historic pioneer homes that line both sides of Beeline Highway or even the town museum tucked away in the old schoolhouse. Most who travel through the small mountain hamlet never take notice of either, instead focusing on getting to their destinations as quickly as possible. But thanks to the efforts of some Pine pioneers who have gotten the word out about the significance of the homes and the role the museum plays in preserving the area’s history, newcomers and visitors are finally taking notice. The museum has its roots in a small room inside the IsPAGE 34 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
abelle Hunt Memorial Public Library. About two decades ago, it was moved into the old Pine School, which also once served as “the LDS chapel.” The new facility is much larger, allowing for more room to display artifacts and documents — some of which Mormon settlers brought to the area in the 1800s. The artifacts that stir the curiosity of visitors include World War II uniforms, a barber chair used in the 1920s, farming implements from the 1800s, cupboards, tableware and sewing machines more than 100 years old and period clothing. Also drawing attention is the pressed tin ceiling in the main room, which remains today exactly as it was in pioneer days. As intriguing as the museum is, a thorough understanding of the history of the tiny mountain hamlet requires a stroll along Beeline to marvel at the pioneer homes, some built just after Pine was settled in 1879. Members of the Pine-Strawberry Archaeological and Historical Society call the stroll a “Walking History Trail” and
markers have been erected in front of each home to explain the significance of the homes. The buildings include small log cabins that gained added rooms over the decades as well as more elaborate structures that have hardly changed. Among those that remain open to visitors is a home adjacent to the Pine post office on the east side of Beeline. Bert D. Randall, the first white male born in Pine, originally built it in 1905 after marrying Lucy Pearl. Randall reportedly hired a craftsman who spent a year hand carving banisters, casings and molding in the home. Current Pine residents remember the Bondurant family living in the home for decades. On the history trail at the north end of town stands a building that originally served as the Ford Car Agency and garage. In 1928 on the south end of town and the east side of Beeline, Frank Fuller built Pine’s first post office. Later owners converted it into a service station, but its latest incarnation has transformed it into a honey stand, made from nectar harvested from bees using every imaginable tree. A must-see on the trail is the Lazear home in the middle of town. It began as a log structure, which remains the heart of the house. Lazear, his wife Margaret and their three children lived in the home until the 1930s. Another stop on the trail features the original Mulberry Inn — the area’s first motel-type accommodations. Near the Inn is a ditch that once served as an irrigation
canal for the entire town running parallel to Beeline. For more information about the Walking History Trail, visit: http://www.pinestrawhs.org/tour.html.
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Adventurous hikers follow Pine Creek, which flows under Tonto Natural Bridge, one of North America’s largest and most unique travertine bridges.
‘Most beautiful bridge’ Cool escape to natural wonder is just minutes from Payson Story by Alexis Bechman Photographs by Tom Brossart
hile Utah has sandstone bridges galore, the Rim Country holds one of North America’s largest and most unique travertine bridges. Tonto Natural Bridge sits just a dozen miles north of Payson, tucked several hundred feet below the Mogollon Rim in Pine Canyon, surrounded by precipitous cliffs and towering pines. The Geological Society of America once noted that it is “one of the most beautiful bridges in the United States.” With a height of nearly 200 feet, yellowish-brown colored walls dotted with pocket caves and icicle-like stalactites hanging from its roof, its unusual beauty has captured imaginations for 500 years. Today, the water from a nearby spring that helped create the bridge is still hard at work; with the sound of dripping water nowhere more prominent than from the belly of the bridge, where hikers still make their way to sit and rest. Water gently crashes over the towering lip of the bridge
W
PAGE 36 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
and onto a brilliant green moss-covered boulder below. The mist from the fall coats smaller rocks, making them like melting ice cubes. Adventurous trekkers make their way across these rocks like ice skaters on new skates. One false step, however, could mean a dip in one of five pools that lie beneath the bridge. The reward from the center of the bridge is a cool breeze and light mist that flows through the tunnel. Small birds float in and around the south entrance, dipping and diving around the waterfall. The origin of the waterfall is an upper spring that has discharged for hundreds of thousands of years, experts estimate. In that time, travertine deposits 150 feet thick formed. Surrounding the bridge is a unique vegetation of cacti and pine trees growing side by side and several species of birds and mammals living side by side. For many years, however, life surrounding the bridge was not so peaceful. The Apache Indians lived in the area for many years, planting crops above the bridge in fertile fields and hunting game. The first white men discovered the bridge in the 1870s, but made no claim to the area.
Then, in the spring of 1877, prospector David Gowan stumbled upon the bridge while prospecting for gold. “He descended from the mountains to the east to the beautiful little valley below that had a clear spring, in order to quench his thirst,” according to a State Parks report. “After refreshing himself, he started exploring the adjacent area and made his discovery. After a few more trips to this “garden spot,” with its unique beauty, Gowan decided this was the place for him to live.” When the Indians returned, Gowan fled and hid among the bridge’s caves, his presence not a welcome sight. Then in 1882, Gowan filed a claim for 160 acres and built a cabin. He planted walnut, apricot, peach, apple, cherry and pear trees and continued to mine around the Mogollon Rim. On one trip to town for provisions, Gowan spoke of the wonder of the bridge. Later, an English journalist would hear
Water from atop the Tonto Natural Bridge falls nearly 200 feet before landing on moss-covered rocks. Its unusual beauty has captured imaginations for 500 years. RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES I PAGE 37
Water dropping from the top of the bridge is highlighted by the sun as it bounces off the rocks near the lower viewing platform.
Gowanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tale and from Phoenix, dispatched a story across the pond. In Scotland, David Goodfellow read the story in a local paper and wondered if Gowan was his long-lost uncle. Goodfellow sent a letter to Gowan inquiring about his heritage and when it was confirmed that Goodfellow was indeed his nephew, Gowan offered him the land. Goodfellow sold his tailoring business, uprooted his wife and three kids and traveled to Flagstaff. Six days later, they arrived by wagon. The Goodfellows reportedly used ropes to lower their belongings down the 500-foot precipice into Pine Canyon. Over time, the Goodfellows built a home, a road leading into the canyon and eventually, the 10-room lodge that still stands today. The State Parks Board is in the process of hiring a contractor to reopen the lodge. Ideas include opening a bed and breakfast, restaurant and possibly building new guest cabins. Today, driving into the Tonto Natural Bridge State Park, PAGE 38 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
the landscape gives little hint of the breathtaking bridge or steep canyon that waits below. A smooth, open road flanked by juniper quickly dips into a canyon. Visitors often misjudge the steepness of the road and often forget to slow down when they hit the upper curve, forcing them to brake fervently. The Goodfellows must have felt the same trepidation when they realized they would have to lower their possessions into the canyon using only ropes. At the bottom of the steep drive, awaits a beautiful valley tucked in among the hills. From the top above Pine Creek, pause to listen to the faint sound of water. It drips off hanging blackberries in a small cove off Waterfall Trail and flings off moss hanging above the bridge, pattering into shallow pools below.
Getting there This park is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Thursday
through Monday. From Payson, head north on Highway 87 for 11 miles to the turnoff for the park on the left (west) side of the highway. Head southwest down Forest Road 583 to an entrance gate. The entrance fee for adults (ages 14plus) is $5. For children (7-13) it is $2. For more information, contact the park at (928) 476-4202.
Hiking trails Pine Creek: Starts north of the bridge in an upper parking lot and wanders through Pine Creek. Arrows painted on rocks lead the way through the boulder-filled creek bottom. After about half a mile, the trail reaches the “backside” of the bridge. Surrounding steep walls featuring small caves and stalactites. Waterfall: Starts just south of the Pine Creek Trailhead. In roughly 300 feet, the trail winds down a series of steep steps, dead-ending at a cave with a waterfall that flows over the entrance. At certain times of the year, a large bush nearby bursts with blackberries. Gowan: The main route taken to the bridge. Roughly 2,200 feet long and steep. The trail bottoms out at Pine Creek and an observation deck. Visitors can continue through the bridge by carefully migrating over slick rocks. The route connects with the Pine Creek Trail. Overlooks: The bridge can also be viewed from four overlooks that require no hiking. Two of the viewpoints are on the north side of the bridge and the other two on the south. Pets are not allowed on any of the trails.
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Zane Grey memories abound in cabin replica Story by Teresa McQuerrey Photographs by Tom Brossart
E
ven though my family has lived in Payson since December 1970, I only visited the original Zane Grey Cabin twice before it was lost to the devastation of the Dude Fire in 1990. PAGE 40 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
The road off Highway 260 wasn’t in the best of shape in those days, so it was a bumpy ride. But going slow, trying to take in the beauty of the area, the washboard surface wasn’t a real problem. To be honest, I don’t recall my first visit up there, but my second — back in the 1980s — is still vivid. Not for the trip, but for the cabin curator who welcomed me — Margaret Sell,
Old hats hang on the wall of the Zane Grey cabin replica at Green Valley Park in Payson. The Dude Fire destroyed the original cabin in 1990. Grey’s cabin was first built in 1920 and restored by William H. “Bill” Goettl in the early 1960s. When the original cabin opened to the public, it was a magnet for Zane Grey fans from around the world, who still flock to the replica today.
who brought the author to life for me. Much of what follows is from that interview, which I did for the Visitors Guide to the Mogollon Rim Country, published by the Mogollon Advisor, then owned by Dave and Debbie Rawsthorne. The original cabin was built in 1920 and restored by William H. “Bill” Goettl in the early 1960s. When it opened to the public, it was a magnet to the multitude of Zane Grey fans from around the world. Grey is credited with having elevated the Western from dime novels to an acknowledged literary form by both historians and experts on literature. He is also said to have created the mythical cowboy — silent, strong, hardworking, honest and mysterious — the cowboy that populates today’s Westerns in both print and on screen. Zane Grey did not write his first Western until after visiting Arizona in 1906 or 1907. His first successful novel (the first to be accepted for publication), “Heritage of the Desert,”
was published in 1910. His most successful novel, “Riders of the Purple Sage,” was written in 1912. Both of these books were, reportedly, based on the people he met and places he saw while on that first visit to the Grand Canyon State, before it became a state (and before coming to the Rim Country). In 1913, Zane Grey returned to Arizona and explored Rainbow Bridge Canyon. His novels, “Rainbow Trail” and “Tales of Lonely Trails,” are said to be based on that visit to Arizona. It was not until 1918 that Grey ventured to the Rim Country. He was brought down from Flagstaff by guide Al Doyle and upon arriving in the area, met up with Anderson Lee “Babe” Haught, another guide whom the author contracted with for hunting. Haught introduced Grey to Mogollon country and then the author shared the area’s magnificence with the world through his novels “Under the Tonto Rim” and “To the Last Man.” Haught sold Grey the land where the original cabin was RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES I PAGE 41
Like the heroes of Grey’s novels, a group of local Western aficionados banded together to help their community. They formed the nonprofit Zane Grey Cabin Foundation to build a historic replica of the cabin.
built. The materials were brought to the site by mules. Zane Grey was the highest paid, most successful writer of his time and Sell said he developed about a dozen books during his stays at the original cabin. Sell and the original cabin are gone now. The cabin was destroyed by the Dude Fire in 1990. But a little of Sell’s spirit whispers from the author’s artifacts decorating the carefully constructed reproduction of the Zane Grey Cabin in Green Valley Park. Every summer since the Dude Fire, visitors to the Rim Country have noticed the void left by the destruction of the Zane Grey Cabin. PAGE 42 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
It was a cherished landmark near Kohl’s Ranch; the famous Western writer used the cabin as a hunting lodge and retreat. When the original property was sold as a private subdivision after the fire, many wondered if a replicated cabin would return to the Rim Country. Like the heroes of Grey’s novels, a group of local Western aficionados banded together to benefit their community.
Combining a tour of the Rim Country Museum with the Zane Grey Cabin, visitors discover the adventures of the pioneers, which inspired Grey to write “Under the Tonto Rim,” “To the Last Man” and “Code of the West.”
They formed the nonprofit Zane Grey Cabin Foundation to build a historic replica of the cabin in Payson. If there are any doubts about the determination of these folks, take a look at what has materialized in Green Valley Park. It took a lot of determination too — the Zane Grey Cabin was completed in 2006. No doubt, Zane Grey (1872-1939) would be proud of this location because the environment played a prominent role in
his novels. Against the backdrop of the Western landscape, his valiant cowboys, honorable ranchers, chaste women, noble horses and unscrupulous outlaws caught the imaginations of his readers. This “Father of the Western novel” penned 57 Westerns, more than 200 short stories, 10 nonfiction Westerns and numerous hunting and fishing articles and books. His books spawned more than 130 movies and, at one time, only the Bible and McGuffey’s Reader could outsell Zane Grey. His books have been published in more than 20 languages and have sold tens of millions of copies. His “The Riders of the Purple Sage” is considered the quintessential Western classic. As a mountain town with a rich Western heritage, Payson brags about its affiliation with this American icon. Exhibits in the cabin focus on life in the 1920s, when Grey was at home in his cabin. Combining a tour of the Rim Country Museum with the Zane Grey Cabin, visitors will discover the adventures of the pioneers, which inspired Grey to write “Under the Tonto Rim,” “To the Last Man” and “Code of the West.” The cabin each year draws groups from historical and Western societies, schools and colleges, Elderhostels and tour excursions. With this endeavor, Payson has eagerly retrieved the Zane Grey Country mantle. Both the Zane Grey Cabin and the Rim Country Museum are open six days a week. Visit between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., Wednesday through Saturday, as well as Monday or Sunday from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. The facilities are closed Tuesday. In the main building of the museum there is a nice gift shop featuring numerous books and collectibles about the Rim Country. For more information, call (928) 474-3483.
Visit Zane Grey Cabin site The Northern Gila County Historical Society is holding a special event at the site of the original Zane Grey Cabin in the fall. Please call the Rim Country Museum for more details, (928) 474-3483. RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES I PAGE 43
What’s Happening Every month First Friday on Historic Main Street, Payson, 5 p.m. to 8 p.m., shops and galleries remain open after hours with special attractions.
Through December 10 Second Saturday Shop Hop in Pine, shops and galleries offer special attractions.
November 2011 Pine-Strawberry Arts & Crafts Guild annual Christmas Boutique features handmade Christmas ornaments, gifts and holiday decor all created by local artists and crafters in the PineStrawberry Arts & Crafts Guild. The annual Christmas Boutique is in the Craft Room at the Pine Community Center every weekend in November, starting at 10 a.m. The dates are Nov. 5-6; Nov. 12-13; Nov. 19-20; and Nov. 26-27. The Pine Community Center is located at 3886 N. Highway 87 in Pine. Tonto Community Concert Association presents Take Me Home – John Denver Tribute, 7 p.m., Wednesday, Nov. 9, Payson High School Auditorium. Veterans Day program, 11 a.m., Friday, Nov. 11 at the Payson High School Auditorium.
14th Annual Gem & Mineral Show, presented by the Payson Rimstones Rock Club, Saturday, Nov. 19 and Sunday, Nov. 20 at the event center of the Mazatzal Hotel & Casino.
Community Thanksgiving Dinner presented by the Payson Elks Lodge, 1206 N. Beeline Hwy., seating at 11 a.m., noon and 1 p.m., Thursday, Nov. 24, call (928) 474-2572 for details. Pine Festival of Lights, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Friday, Nov. 25 and noon to 8 p.m., Saturday, Nov. 26 with the Jingle Bell Parade, community tree lighting, a visit from Santa and more.
Turkey Trot 5K Saturday, Nov. 19 at Green Valley Park. 14th Annual Gem & Mineral Show, presented by the Payson Rimstones Rock Club, Saturday, Nov. 19 and Sunday, Nov. 20 at the event center of the Mazatzal Hotel & Casino.
ide Gri l imS &CABINS
Electric Light Parade, 6 p.m., Saturday, Dec. 4 on historic Main Street, Payson.
Open Wednesday thru Sunday
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Annual Pine Merchants Holiday Open House, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Saturday, Nov. 19.
Swiss Village Christmas Lighting, 6 p.m. to 9 p.m., Friday, Nov. 25 at Swiss Village with photos with Santa and Mrs. Claus, prizes, free food and entertainment.
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T-Shirts • Athletics • Sport Shirts • Caps • Fleece Aprons • Totes & Bags • Towels • And More
FULL BAR • WINES AND CRAFT BEERS • RELAXING LOUNGE
Bring in artwork or let us help design your concept.
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605 W. Main St. • www.tontosilkscreen.com
13 Miles North of Payson at 3270 N. HWY 87 in Pine PAGE 44 I RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES
Mazatzal Arts & Crafts Fair Saturday, Nov. 26 at the bingo room of the Mazatzal Hotel & Casino.
Home Of “Payson’s Souvenir Shop”
928-474-4207
NEWS? Call 474-5251, ext. 108, to subscribe to the Payson Roundup.
iff’s Posse, visits Wednesday, Feb. 8, arrival at the Payson post office at 4:45 p.m. and departure at 10 a.m., Thursday, Feb. 9. Tonto Community Concert Association presents American Spirit, the songs of the U.S., 7 p.m., Tuesday, Feb. 28, Payson High School Auditorium.
March 2012 Taste of Rim Country, enjoy samples of food prepared by area chefs, accompanied by wine and a silent auction, Payson Public Library, 5 p.m., Saturday, March 3.
Photos by Andy Towle
The Rim Country Classic Auto Club’s Beeline Cruise-In Car Show, Friday, April 27, check-in and town cruise; Saturday, April 28, car show at Green Valley Park.
Tonto Community Concert Association presents The Water Coolers, a cast of five New York City comics and singers celebrate the insanity of everyday life, 7 p.m., Friday, March 16, Payson High School Auditorium.
April 2012 Tonto Community Concert Association presents Chaplin – A Life in Concert, a multi-media production, 7 p.m., Tuesday, Nov. 29, Payson High School Auditorium.
Tonto Community Concert Association presents The American Tenors with a variety of songs, 7 p.m., Thursday, April 19, Payson High School Auditorium.
December 2011
Rim Country Classic Auto Club’s Beeline Cruise-In Car Show, Friday, April 27 check-in and town cruise; Saturday, April 28, car show at Green Valley Park.
Electric Light Parade, 6 p.m., Saturday, Dec. 4 on historic Main Street, Payson. Payson Choral Society annual Holiday Concert, 1 p.m. and 7 p.m., Saturday, Dec. 17, Payson High School Auditorium
January 2012 Tonto Community Concert Association presents Billy Dean, with the music of Nashville, 7 p.m., Thursday, Jan. 12, Payson High School Auditorium. 8th Annual Black and White Ball to benefit the Mogollon Health Alliance; Sonoran Swing to perform, Saturday, Jan. 21 at the Mazatzal Hotel & Casino event center.
February 2012 Hashknife Pony Express ride of the Navajo County Sher-
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Turn off 87 at Hardscrabble and browse over 3,300 sq. ft. of treasures from all eras. Our prices are worth the drive. OPEN 3716 Prince/Hardscrabble Rd. Mon-Sat 10-5/ Sun 11-4 928-476-4618
May 2012 Wildlife Fair, presented by the Payson, Parks, Recreation and Tourism Department and Arizona Game & Fish Department, May 5, Green Valley Park (date is tentative). Gary Hardt Memorial Spring Rodeo, Payson Event Center, evening performances Friday, May 18 and Saturday, May 19, with a Women’s Rodeo the evening of Thursday, May 17.
June 2012 Mountain High Games, presented by the Payson, Parks, Recreation and Tourism Department, includes annual Sawdust Festival, ATV and mountain bike races and more, June 1, 2 and 3.
Payson Golf Course Enjoy golf in Arizona’s Cool Rim Country 1504 West Country Club Drive Payson, AZ 85541
928-474-2273
For reservations call 928-970-9511
Pine Creek Cabins and Gazebo Weddings 3901 N. Hwy 87 • Pine, Arizona 85544 www.pinecreekcabinsaz.com
RIM COUNTRY ADVENTURES I PAGE 45
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