11 minute read
OFF THE VINE
Chapel Down (inset and bottom right), Balfour (right), and Hattingley Valley (below) are among the most sought-after producers of English sparkling wine.
JASON ALDEN SALTWICK MEDIA
THE ELECTRIC EYE PHOTOGRAPHY
OFF THE VINE
JASON ALDEN
BRITISH Invasion
As temperatures rise, English vintners are giving Champagne a run for its money
By Mark Spivak
Just when you thought there was no possible upside to global warming, along comes English sparkling wine.
Although sparkling wine production in the South of England only began in the 1980s, it is now home to more than 100 producers. Most are using the traditional Champagne method and the same grape varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier). The majority of the estates are located in Kent, Sussex, and Surrey, with the largest producers being Gusbourne and Chapel Down. Given that the area has similar soil and topography to the Champagne region across the Channel, success was probably inevitable. Even the house of Taittinger has joined the party, with its first vintage from Kent expected next year.
Champagne is frequently the standard by which English sparkling wine is measured, but there are distinctions. While the best English sparklers compare favorably to mass-market Champagne, the real analogy would be to grower Champagne. Most English producers are small, family-run, quality-oriented operations, and many of the wines display a vibrancy and freshness that commercial Champagne lacks. Here, we spotlight some wineries to watch.
BALFOUR: Founded by Richard and Leslie Balfour-Lynn, Balfour released its first harvest in 2004. The estate gained recognition when its brut rosé ($60) won a gold medal at the 2007 International Wine Challenge; made in small quantities every year, it’s Balfour’s flagship and
worth seeking out. Straddling the divide between brut and demi-sec, Leslie’s Reserve Gold NV ($45) is filled with tart green apple flavors and good acidity, making it a nice match with seafood and a lovely wine to enjoy on a summer’s day. (balfourwinery.com)
GUSBOURNE: Imported by Broadbent Selections, Gusbourne is readily available around the United States. The Estate Brut Reserve 2016 ($55) contains Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. It’s remarkably well-balanced, with a creamy texture and classic Chardonnay flavors of citrus, melon, apple, and pear. It’s also an excellent value for a vintage-dated Brut. (gusbourne.com)
CHAPEL DOWN: Kent’s largest producer thumbs its nose at its French counterpart by stating that it operates “without the confines of 350 years’ worth of rules and traditions.” Chapel Down’s Classic Brut NV ($50) is brash and forward on entry, but it fleshes out in the mid-palate to reveal flavors of vanilla, citrus, custard, and candied fruit, all of which linger on a subtle finish. This charming wine is finding its way onto the shelves of both boutique retailers and big-box stores. (chapeldown.com)
RIDGEVIEW: Mike and Christine Roberts established Ridgeview in the South Downs of Sussex in 1995, and it remains a family winery. They produce non-vintage brut (Cavendish and Bloomsbury), blanc de blancs, blanc de noirs, and several bottlings of rosé. Pale salmon in color, Fitzrovia Rosé NV ($60) blends wild berry flavors with earthy, savory notes. It was deemed good enough for Queen Elizabeth to serve to President Obama at Buckingham Palace in 2011. (ridgeview.co.uk)
HATTINGLEY VALLEY: Simon Robinson gave up practicing law in 2008 to become a vintner. With the help of winemaker Emma Rice, he transformed this rural Hampshire property into an eco-friendly, stateof-the-art vineyard and winery. Classic Reserve ($45), Hattingley’s non-vintage brut, contains nearly equal parts Chardonnay and black grapes. The clean, fresh texture combines vivid lemon flavors with hints of yeast and brioche. (hattingleyvalley.com)
Other English sparkling wines worth investigating include Denbies, Kingscote, Langham, Camel Valley, Nyetimber, Furleigh Estate, Breaky Bottom, Harrow & Hope, Court Garden, and Greyfriars. Distribution is increasing among both boutique retailers and big-box stores, as well as with online sellers such as wine.com. «
Hattingley Valley winery in Hampshire, England
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SOCIAL STUDIES
SEEN ON THE SCENE IN SOUTH FLORIDA
MARIA FIFE, RAYNA EXELBIERD, MARTA BATMASIAN, MICHELLE YELLIN, MARK POLANI, PAMELA HIGER-POLANI, MARA NEW, BELIZA BERMUDEZ
BRUNCH & FASHION SHOW
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IRMA MARTINEZ ESTEFANIA LACAYO, LORENA VASQUEZ
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OPENING COCKTAIL PARTY: LATIN AMERICA FASHION SUMMIT
WHO: Zacapa Rum and the Latin American Fashion Summit WHERE: El Tucán, Miami HIGHLIGHTS: The summit kicked off its celebration of emerging fashion during Women’s History Month with drinks from Zacapa Rum’s Mujeres Fuertes cocktail collection.
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ALEX TAMARGO/GETTY IMAGES
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ANGIE LANDABURU EURNEKIAN, CASS DIMICCO, MARTHA GRAEFF, MANUELA BALADA
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RIA MICHELLE VITA SIDORKINA-MORABITO, VALERIA LIPOVETSK
CHABELY CUBA, ANE GONZALEZ
CARLOS TORRES, MICHAEL MARTIN, PAUL BREUZA, JEAN PHILIPPE BERNARD
ANNIVERSARY PARTY
WHO & WHERE: Villa Azur, Miami HIGHLIGHTS: To celebrate 10 years, Villa Azur hosted a white party with live music, beats by DJ Irie, stunning visuals, aerialist choreography, and immersive experiences with Perrier-Jouët’s floral Champagne flowing throughout the night.
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BRITT ROBERTS, BLAKE BAUER
WORLD RED EYE
ELIAS PATASALON, VANESSA LERMER
DJ IRIE, DJ STEPHEN
EDI LOPES, ALESSANDRA MACHADO
ISHA CUDJOE, SCHENECA SARDINE
FRANCOIS FROSSARD, JEAN PHILLIPPE BERNARD, PAUL BREUZA
GUAYNAA AND CAMILLA LUNELLI SIMONE MASÉ, CAITLYN JENNER, MATTEO LUNELLI
OFFICIAL TOAST OF FORMULA 1
WHO: Ferrari Trento WHERE: Miami International Autodrome HIGHLIGHTS: As the official bottle of bubbly for the inagural Formula 1 Crypto.com Miami Grand Prix, the premium Italian sparkling wine brand hosted several gatherings over the course of the Grand Prix weekend to celebrate its podium debut.
CAMILLA LUNELLI, CRISTIANO FIORIO, CARMEN JORDA PAUL RUBIO, KRISTEN DESMOND LEFEVRE
FERRARI TRENTO BAR AT THE MIAMI INTERNATIONAL AUTODROME MATTEO LUNELLI, DAVID BECKHAM
MATTEO LUNELLI, MATTEO BINOTTO
GIANLUCA VACCHI, MATTEO AND VALENTINA LUNELLI, SHARON FONSECA
ADRIANA RAMIREZ, FERNANDO GUERRA, MILDRED RISGINO, LUCIANA TABENI
CITI TASTE OF TENNIS MIAMI
WHO: Citi and Taste of Tennis WHERE: JW Marriott Miami HIGHLIGHTS: The celebration welcomed tennis legends Venus Williams, Monica Seles, Garbiñe Muguruza, and others with culinary samplings, live entertainment, and beats by DJ Mad Linz. A portion of the evening’s proceeds benefited the USTA Foundation.
BETHANIE MATTEK-SANDS
GETTY IMAGES/ CITI TASTE OF TENNIS
ALYSHA NEWMAN, MONICA SELES
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