LOCAL BITES

DINING

THE OUTSIDERS

These restaurants offer elevated eats with outdoor spaces to match

EVA KOLENKO

HILLSTONE RESTAURANT GROUP

HILLSTONE, Winter Park «

You can’t talk about patios without mentioning Hillstone and its gorgeously landscaped outdoor space overlooking Lake Killarney. The killer view is matched by a solid sampling of dolled-up Americana plates that seem all the more fetching when you’re seated on the architecturally striking terrace guarded by majestic oaks. It’s what has made Hillstone the most beloved chain in the city—and if you doubt that assertion, you’ve likely never dined at this Winter Park fixture or enjoyed a glass of wine while seated in an Adirondack chair in front of the firepit. (hillstonerestaurant.com)

CANVAS, Orlando

This Lake Nona stunner is privileged with some of the best lakeside views of any Central Florida restaurant. The screened-in terrace is ideal year-round, while tables on the outdoor patio—decked with umbrellas and within sight of Tom Fruin’s Glass House, a kaleidoscopic art installation—are the hardest seats to snag during the cooler months. The fact that Canvas’ Florida-focused comfort food is stellar just makes those starry nights all the more astral. (canvaslakenona.com)

BAKER BARRIOS ARCHITECT

THE RAVENOUS PIG, Winter Park

Leave it to one of the top restaurants in the city to use the pandemic as a means to get even better. After debuting its very own brewery in the building next door in the summer of 2020, The Ravenous Pig now boasts a sizeable outdoor beer garden to keep guests safe, socially distant, and satiated. The green space, spiffed with picnic-style tables, red umbrellas, and shuffleboard and cornhole areas, opened to coincide with the gastrobar’s thirteenth anniversary. The beer garden, by the way, is a family-friendly venue— and that includes pets. (theravenouspig.com) «

HAMILTON’S KITCHEN, Winter Park

This Winter Park hot spot is where the well-heeled set gather to wine and dine amid the classy and manicured grounds of The Alfond Inn’s inner courtyard. Under the archways, they soak in some Old Florida glamour while feasting on fancified fare with a seafood bent, all deftly executed by chef Stephen Doyle. Think: crab and crawfish cakes, jerk swordfish glazed in serrano mint, and Faroe Island salmon with green lentils. Oh sure, Park Avenue is mere steps away, but Hamilton’s offers a more secluded alfresco experience than any of the myriad restaurants on that tony strip. (thealfondinn.com)

PADDLEFISH, Lake Buena Vista

Diving into a seafood tower layered with Alaskan King crab, jumbo Gulf shrimp, and oysters on the upper deck of a replica Mississippi riverboat would certainly qualify as a unique dining experience. But what makes Paddlefish’s rooftop deck special is its unmatched views of the sprawling lakeside grounds of Disney Springs. Sunsets from atop this floating fortress of seafood practically beg for an adult beverage, of which several listed under the “Sunset” category on the menu (sangria, an old fashioned, a Kentucky mule, and a rye-grapefruit bitter called the “Mid-Shipman”) come highly recommended. Just don’t get too carried away—calls of “man overboard!” can really spoil the moment. (paddlefishrestaurant.com)

Whether seated inside or atop this Mississippi riverboat, guests at Paddlefish can make selections from the seafood-centric menu that includes classics like lobster rolls (above) and cioppino (left). John Tesar is the mastermind behind Knife & Spoon at The Ritz-Carlton Grande Lakes.

Q&A Quick Fire with John Tesar

J o h n T e s a r h a s e a r n e d m u l t i p l e J a m e s B e a r d A w a r d n o m i n a t i o n s , a p p e a r e d o n T o p C h e f t w i c e , a n d b e e n i m m o r t a l i z e d a s c h a r a c t e r “ J i m m y S e a r s ” i n A n t h o n y B o u r d a i n ’ s s e m i n a l b o o k o n k i t c h e n c u l t u r e , K i t c h e n C o n f i d e n t i a l . M a n y a c a r n i v o r e c o n s i d e r t h e c h e f ’ s D a l l a s s t e a k h o u s e , K n i f e , t o b e o n e o f t h e b e s t i n t h e c o u n t r y . N o w h e ’ s o p e n e d s i s t e r r e s t o K n i f e & S p o o n i n s i d e T h e R i t z C a r l t o n G r a n d e L a k e s a n d t a p p e d f e l l o w T o p C h e f a l u m G e r a l d S o m b r i g h t a s c h e f d e c u i s i n e . U n s u r p r i s i n g l y , t h e m o d e r n c h o p h o u s e h a s g a r n e r e d a c c o l a d e s f o r i t s s u p e r l a t i v e c u t s o f d r y a g e d b e e f . W e r e c e n t l y c a u g h t u p w i t h T e s a r f o r a r o u n d o f r a p i d - f i r e q u e s t i o n s . ( g r a n d e l a k e s . c o m / d i n i n g / k n i f e - a n d s p o o n )

On why he chose Orlando:

“Having been the guy who came in behind Dean Fearing [at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek], it was amazing to then be asked to be the guy who came in behind Norman Van Aken. And not that these guys aren’t still icons, but it’s just amazing to follow in their footsteps, let alone be in The Ritz-Carlton.”

JEFF HERRON

What he’d tell those accustomed to super-

market/wet-aged cuts of beef: “I feel sorry for you.”

The one dish at Knife & Spoon he recom-

mends: “Try the New York strip, but both rib eye and New York strip offer very unique flavor profiles. Because of the use of 44 Farms and HeartBrand Beef and their feed programs, that’s what you’re really tasting and that’s what makes Knife & Spoon different.”

How often he’ll be in Orlando: “Several times a month. I’ll be at the restaurant at least a couple of days every week.”

Biggest takeaway from Top Chef: “That I love Top Chef, but it’s nothing more than politics and entertainment.”

Where he likes to eat while in town: “My go-tos are Domu, Ravenous Pig, Prato, Tori Tori, Kabooki Sushi, and Seito Sushi.”

SPECIALTIES The Mouse that DINED

From right: The Cheers to 50 Years! sundae and the Squid’s Revenge drink, two of Disney’s whimsical anniversary offerings.

It came as welcome news when Disney revealed that it would feature an extensive array of celebratory bites and sips for Walt Disney World’s Fiftieth Anniversary. The amusing array of specially created sweet and savory food and beverage offerings—many inspired by Walt’s personal recipes, beloved Disney characters, nostalgic dishes, and Disney attractions past and present—is full of EARidescent shimmer and whimsy. Guest favorites include the Cheers to 50 Years! sundae at Plaza Restaurant, the Squid’s Revenge drink at Be Our Guest Restaurant, the Royal Fiftieth Celebration Champagne Flight at Cinderella’s Royal Table (all at Magic Kingdom Park), and the Filet Mignon with Walt’s Hash at The Hollywood Brown Derby (at Disney’s Hollywood Studios). The coveted and cravable items are now available throughout the Disney parks and resorts in Lake Buena Vista, and beyond. (disneyworld.disney.go.com) —Allison Wolfe Reckson

HOT SPOT

ROOM WITH A VIEW

The prized Ivanhood location (on which a pinery once stood) finally has a restaurant worthy of its picturesque views thanks to Phillippe Villain and Kevin O’Donnell of VO Hospitality. The pair opened Russell’s on Lake Ivanhoe in September 2020 after investing in a thorough redesign—the results of which are nothing short of stunning. The patio area has been fully enclosed, with large picture windows framing a waterfront vista that’s as mesmerizing from the dining room as it is from the elevated bar, particularly at sunset. That dishes like grilled spiny lobster tails or a Napoleon fashioned from roasted beets and burrata are just as captivating only serves to bestow Russell’s with looker status. (russellsorlando.com)

TRY THIS FIRE BIRDS

Ever since Popeye’s launched its chicken sandwich into the social media stratosphere in the summer of 2019, birds in the hand have become, arguably, the most popular quick nosh in the city. Swine & Sons in Winter Park took things to the extreme with its chicken sandwich peppered with incendiary Chiang Mai spicing, while other outfits like Mills 50’s Chi-Kin, Thornton Park’s Mason Jar Provisions, and Disney Springs’ Chicken Guy! gave the sammie a Korean, Southern, and Guy Fieri–fied spin, respectively. But no one generated as much buzz as Chicken Fire, whose Nashville hot chicken sandwich (pictured; available in soulful, meek, mild, medium, and hot levels) impressed the city’s food cognoscenti for its intense flavor and impeccably crisp texture. Be prepared for lines snaking out the door of the Coytown locale. (facebook.com/eatchickenfire)

TERRENCE GROSS

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