Dining Out: Bruce Newbury

HAS GOOD NEWS FROM restaurant row become the “man bites dog” story of 2021? That’s the old journalism trope used to describe how unusual, rare occurrences draw the attention of the news media rather than ordinary, everyday events.

Recently, there have been a few such stories in the media of restaurants “suddenly” having successes. Last month, the lead story on a local TV news channel proclaimed, “Downtown Providence restaurant completely booked for Valentine’s Day.”

The story that should be told is this: that wasn’t the only spot that was busy. Most were. Bob Burke had to open a third seating in early February for his Valentine’s Day dinner and Zoom show package at Pot au Feu. Knead Doughnuts had to post on social media it underestimated turnout for heart-shaped and holidaythemed pastry creations the Saturday before Valentine’s Day. Owner Adam Lastrina called the day “one of our largest production days to date!”

Rich Willis of Caleb & Broad in Newport talked told me about a pattern of busy nights, including patrons dining outdoors in January. Restaurants statewide for months have been found to have longer wait times for

Bigger story is missing

takeout.

And the lack of one type of story should have been newsworthy – there has been no wholesale closing of restaurants in Rhode Island. All evidence is anecdotal, absent actual local industry figures. Based on this, in 2020, the net loss of restaurants in the state approximates the number of permanent closures over the past five years.

A heartwarming story was reported last month when the longtime owners of The Olde Theater Diner in Coventry gave $15,000 in bonuses to its staff members. Proprietor Louie Zarokostas says the news account, first reported locally, was seen around the world as CNN gave it coverage. His story illustrates the resilience of the independent restaurateurs who are the backbone of the industry in this state. Zarokostas related he had lost an estimated 80% of his business at one point during the past year. His restaurant has been a landmark in Kent County for celebrations from weddings to hockey banquets, all of which went away during COVID-19. But none of his 60 employees were laid off during the ordeal.

The diner has continued to give back to the community by donating money to organizations in need. The four owners of the business took funds out of their own pockets to give each employee a bonus based on seniority and position. This story is not unique in Rhode Island.

Why has the opposite picture of the state’s restaurant community been allowed to take hold? Like most other questions about life during COVID-19, we search for simple answers to complicated issues. Before 2020, there was less and less in-depth local reporting from in-person sources due to corporate media restructuring and closures. This resulted in a steady diet of narrative driven by national sources, magnified and amplified during COVID-19 that focused on the devastation experienced in media centers such as New York City, which has been a different story.

When state government first shut down restaurants in Rhode Island, some vocal members of the industry demanded relief, which was justifiable. At the same time, another phenomenon came about – loyal customers. Those who were able were generous with spending and gratuities, which became a real bailout.

Many local restaurateurs have confided about this part of the story and many are hopeful it will be able to be told in years to come following recovery. Those are headlines we all look forward to. n

Restaurants … have been found to have longer wait times for takeout.

Bruce Newbury’s radio show and podcast, “Dining Out with Bruce Newbury,” is broadcast on WADK 1540 AM and several radio stations throughout New England. Email him at Bruce@BruceNewbury.com.

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ASHISH K. JHA, MD, MPH

Dean of the Brown University School of Public Health

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Chief Medical Officer Tufts Health Plan

PETER MARINO

President & CEO, Neighborhood Health Plan of Rhode Island

CHRISTOPHER D. PALMIERI

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KAREN T. TASHIMA MD

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