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Food for Thought: Dried Fish
Remembering mother’s masterful cooking
WRITTEN BY NERCYA KALINO
Growing up in Malawi, East Africa, dried fish wasn’t my favourite. Now, as an adult, I have grown a nostalgic longing for it — I even miss the smell of it. There is something about dried, fried, roasted, and stewed fish that takes me back to my childhood days. I remember sitting by the burning charcoal with my mom constantly calling out from the kitchen if I was watching the pot. It took a while for me to distinguish between different types of fish, methods of cooking, and the variety of flavour profiles. Whether it is small, long, and curled fish or darkened fish from the sun, they all have a traditional way to cook them to amplify the taste preserved from the drying process.
I love small dried fish made from usipa, which resemble sardines. Its pungency reminds me of my childhood when I would squirm at the lifeless creature on the plate. The fish would be piled on one side of the plate with other traditional foods such as nsima and bean stew. Reflecting on my childhood dishes, it is not the fancier meals my mother cooked, but rather the food I neglected eating as a child that I miss the most.
I trust my mother’s hands when it comes to preparing dried fish as its handling requires a higher level of experience. Historically, we have used trays to lay fish in the sun with the number of days depending on the fish type. These methods have since evolved to fish farmers using solar power in greenhouses to make the drying process healthier and more efficient. I also appreciate dried fish because of the fish farmers who rely on the process of dried fish and marketing for profit. In Malawi, fish farmers will dry fish to prolong the selling period. Dried fish varies in price due to its size and rarity depending on the season, but for the most part, it is affordable. Dried fish is more of a traditional dish rather than a snack, depending on the type. The smell of these fish (kampango, kapenta, and usipa) is distinct to fish enthusiasts and is the heart of Malawian food culture. In Malawi, chambo is quite popular with tourists as this type of fish is tender, tastes great fried, stewed, and roasted — it never disappoints.
Dried fish is also present in other cultures of African descent. The simultaneous intersection and diversity of ingredients and preparation methods across cultures is something I have come to appreciate. In Malawian culture and among other south eastern countries, they normally cook dried fish such as kapenta by soaking and gutting the tiny fish that you fry with little oil. In western African cultures, they use dried fish as part of a larger stew consisting of meat and vegetables such as banga.
Dried fish is a distant memory now, as I only get to eat it when I visit home. Back at home, buying fish is also a culturally immersive experience. Some of the fish used is accessible here as well, but to prepare and cook it in the same way is a challenge. Regardless, I would definitely like to learn how to cook it from my mother someday.
Dried fish falls on the side of food experiences that I believe tourists are not super keen on exploring, but I think there is so much to appreciate in the taste, cultural importance, and labour behind dried fish. If given the opportunity, would you give it a try?
Fried fish is a staple food in Malawi, East Africa
DANCING THROUGH DARKNESS Nicole Bizovie and the Dovbush Dancers
SFU student shares how dancing has kept her grounded in Ukrainian culture and community
YELIN GEMMA LEE // ARTS & CULTURE EDITOR
For many of us, dance means marvelling at the beauty of performances as an audience member or moving your body at the club. But for SFU health science student Nicole Bizovie, dance has kept her connected to Ukrainian culture and community all throughout her life.
Bizovie has been going to the Association of United Ukrainian Canadians (AUUC Vancouver) at the Ukraine Cultural Centre since she was just three years old. Growing up in the Dovbush School of Dance, she officially joined the Dovbush Dancers at age 14. Bizovie explained to The Peak that dancing and being a part of AUUC Vancouver keeps her rooted in her Ukrainian culture.
Bizovie said the elements of this dance, like costumes and choreography, “pertain to particular regions throughout Ukraine. So you learn about the history of your culture through dance which is an interesting way to learn about it,” said Bizovie. “Just being around people in your community really connects you with it.”
The Dovbush Dancers were on a performing hiatus throughout COVID-19, with dance Zoom calls twice a week when their in-person rehearsals would normally be. Though things weren’t the same throughout these socially distanced rehearsals, Bizovie expressed pride and gratitude to be able to remain connected.
“A lot of the Ukrainian dance studios in the Lower Mainland didn’t operate throughout COVID-19. So we were one of the only ones who were actively practicing,” said Bizovie.
Since then, the Dovbush Dancers have been back to inperson rehearsals and recently did their first performance closing for Ukrainian designer, Tetyana Golota, at Vancouver “I always think of the Hall as a second home, because it really is. I’m there three times a week, sometimes more, and I’ve been doing that forever and ever my whole life,” said Bizovie. “It's always been a kind of escape for me. Whatever’s going on in my life, good or bad, school, friends, anything — it doesn’t matter as soon as I get into the hall. As soon as I go to the hall for dance, my mind is blank. I’m just existing.”
Fashion Week. As the Dovbush Dancers operate out of the Ukrainian Cultural Centre, they’ve been working together to help host numerous fundraisers for the Russia-Ukraine war.
Some of these include medical supply and cash donation drives in partnership with Maple Hope Foundation and Ukrainian Patriot, perogy sales, and a craft and bake sale. Bizovie said they also have a large fundraising event coming up on June 11 called “Big Bands for Ukraine” in partnership with the Polish community. Bizovie, who supports administration at the cultural centre, said they have been receiving a lot of love and support during this difficult time for her community.
“The community in Vancouver has been extremely supportive [ . . . ] The amount of support I get weekly from strangers offering their services, offering to volunteer, looking to help in any way, it’s been super overwhelming and amazing.”
Bizovie said AUUC Vancouver, or the “Hall,” continues to be a safe space for her with therapeutic mental effects. Watching older clips of their performances, I was taken aback by the joy and hope exuding from the dancers and with each dance delicately spinning out an enchanting story.
NICOLE BIZOVIE
SFU STUDENT AND DOVBUSH DANCER Nicole Bizovie in front of the Ukraine Cultural Centre.
PHOTO: Tallulah Photography / @tallulah_photo / tallulahphoto.com
To learn more about the Dovbush Dancers, check out their Instagram or website. To learn more about and obtain tickets to the upcoming fundraiser “Big Bands for Ukraine,” visit their Eventbrite link.
MONDAY MUSIC: YOU WENT PARTYING WITH DRAKE, NOW THIS IS WHAT YOU LISTEN TO
Grime is the real baller of the UK, so let’s get down with some of the greatest of all time
In my personal opinion, grime is one of the best things to come out of the UK. This relatively new genre of music (2000s) that stems from a mix of garage, jungle, and hip hop has its epicenter in London. So here you have five songs by Black artists from the grime scene to get you out of your Drake phase and into a whole new world of rap.
“Red Card”
By JME, Skepta, Jammer & Shorty
This number has some of the big shots from BBK behind it. If you want to feel like you own the campus when you walk through it to your dreaded summer classes, this is the soundtrack for your day. You can almost see the make it rain meme happen to this song. It’s utterly adorable how these men who seem so tough on the outside sing lyrics about Mario Kart and Haribo.
IMAGE: Boy Better Know Collective
By Stefflon Don
I had to include the queen of grime: Stefflon Don, who dominates the international women rap scene. Arguably this song is not grime but Stefflon Don mixes her background in grime with Jamaican dancehall and the result is chef’s kiss. Even though it’s a tad hard-hitting, it’s all about self-defence and protecting the ones you’re closest to. This is an amazing empowerment song for women.
“Aladdin”
By Not3s
This song helps you envision yourself wearing your sunglasses, cruising in your imaginary BMW, with your arms in the air through the open window. A lot of grime is about confidence and this song is no exception. It’s interesting because most of these artists are in their early-mid 20’s. Their talents back their arrogance, so if you’re ready to big up with the mandem, now you know the way.
IMAGE: Relentless Records
By Stormzy
How could one start a suggestion of grime music without the biggest top boy of all? Stormzy once protested the rise in knife-crimes and racial inequality in Britain by performing at Glastonbury with a stabproof vest designed by Banksy. He got tens of thousands of people to scream “fuck the government and fuck Boris” while performing “Vossi Bop.” Yet he is soft enough to make this hit song with the lyrics, “You’re never too big for Adele.” Enjoy this masterpiece that’ll big you up to seize the day. In grime lingo, to “big up” means to feel important.
The Association of Latin America Students (ALAS) welcomes all members with open arms
From hosting their own podcast to supporting the community, this SFU club does it all
WRITTEN BY ISABELLA URBANI
ALAS helps students build networks and remain in the loop about SFU events. PHOTO: SFU ALAS You hear it said time and time again. Joining a club at any level — high school, university, adulthood — can be a life changing experience. This is true for both domestic and international students navigating post-secondary, and especially beneficial for international students adjusting to the traditions and culture of an entirely new country.
Arturo Pacheco, president of SFU’s Association of Latin American Students (ALAS) and third year criminology major, has experienced these benefits firsthand. Coming to SFU as an international student from Mexico, Pacheco joined the club back in Spring 2019 to meet new friends.
“As an international student, the first couple of months are rou you’re just missing your parents every day or being with people cultural backgrounds. ALAS is a way to feel like you’re back at home,” Pacheco expressed.
Since its beginnings in the 2000s, ALAS has provided a “safe environment for entertainment and a place to share Latin American roots, culture, festivities, food; we want to promote the best of having a multicultural community,” said Pacheco.
Part of having a multicultural community is embracing all identities. ALAS isn’t just home to Latin American students, explained Pacheco. “We don’t really care where you’re from or who you are. We just want to share our cultural backgrounds, and we expect for you to respect our festivities and food. W want to have a good, healthy, peaceful community.”
That being said, the club is still dedicated to helping Latin American students gain their footing on campus through running events to help students make connections and making them aware of what the university has to offer.
Their first event of the semester, which Pacheco described as a “networking, getting to know people from your same background” icebreaker, took place on May 27, but the club has many other events upcoming. “The ones that are already on the table, and waiting for the weather to clear up a bit, are [trips] to Kitsilano beach to play volleyball. We’re going to have volleyball tournaments on Saturdays,” Pacheco said.
Additionally, to help students to better understand the events and opportunities SFU and the Simon Fraser Student Society (SFSS) have to offer, ALAS vicepresident Lester Pino created a podcast called
The club has currently released four episodes on Spotify featuring members from Students of Caribbean and African Ancestry, SFU350, and the African Students’ Association.
Much like the club, the podcast isn’t just meant for Latin American students. “That is why we also wanted to touch on other clubs, and give them a platform to introduce themselves, where to find them, and what t said Pacheco.
He explained the idea for the podcast is to highlight groups who’ve had a “huge impact on campus,” such as SFU350 whose mural protested SFU’s lack of climate action.
