FASHION MUSIC CULTURE LIFESTYLE ISSUE 3 FEBRUARY | MARCH 2013
WELCOME TO FEBRUARY AND MARCH’S EDITION OF PEBBLE illustrations by juliet stedman
PUT YOUR FEET UP AND TAKE A LOOK AT WHAT WE MADE FOR YOU illustration by hkoppdelaney
THE MOVEMENT ISSUE
Moving around has now become a major part of my life, spending a few years here and there and moving again, making friends on every corner of the world, discovering new cultures and building my own. In this edition, we challenge ourselves with looking at movement in a wide sense from getting a close look at animation company Blue Zoo bringing life to fictional characters, to sportswear inspired fashion shoots, introducing a new generation of designers and London Men’s Fashion Week. We take a glance at music movements around the United Kingdom and our favourite road movies. After reconsidering which of our resolutions are achievable, it is time to slowly start wrapping out of our blankets and look forward to what 2013 has best to offer and how our lives are going to move forward.
photography by doug wheller and martinak15
NICE TO JULIA DENNI
JOSEPH KENT
RACHEL CURRIE
editor-in-chief
assistant editor
designer
How many times have you moved in your life?
What do you like to do on a Sunday?
How many times have you moved in your life?
I first moved when I was 6 to the seaside and I have never left it since. I have lived in France, Australia and the United Kingdom. I hope to move to again in a few years time. I love discovering new places and making friends across the globe.
It sounds cliche, but I like to take it easy. I have to leave the house for an hour at least, else I feel I have wasted my day, nonetheless I try not to work too much. Although I do find myself editing photos into the late evening.
I have only ever moved house once. I lived in my childhood home for 12 years and I loved it. I love my new home now even more. My parents have put a lot of work into it, especially our fairtale garden, so I couldn’t imagine being anywhere else.
What do you like to do on a Sunday?
Have you ever made the first move?
What’s your favourite way of travelling?
Most people like to relax on a Sunday and stay in bed as long as possible, to me, it feels like wasting precious time, I like being up in the morning, making the most of what life has to offer and exploring the surroundings.
As bad as it sounds, I haven’t. My ex-girlfriend cut the ribbon of our relationship. She jumped me at a sleepover when I was 17 with a sloppy but satisfying kiss.
What’s your favourite way of travelling?
What’s your favourite food on the move?
Trains trains trains. People often complain about how awful our train service is, but I disagree. I love to sit and stare out of a train window for hours, and just switch off completely. The train I used to get to work every day took me alongside an estuary, heading out to sea. It was a beautiful way to start the day.
The most exciting way to travel for me will always be hitch hiking. I first started when I was 16 and have never been disappointed, it’s always an adventure and you never know what lovely people you may meet along the way.
I have a sweet tooth, so an assortment of pick’n’mix sweets often accompanies me on walks. I love visiting the traditional style sweet shops and buying a couple of rhubarb and custard flavoured cables.
Which film moves you to tears? Seven Pounds. I tear up quite easily, mainly at adverts, but this film made me bawl like a baby. I like a good cry, but I refuse to ever see Marley and Me.
MEET YOU HONOR MARTIN
ROSIE LORD
ELLY REWCASTLE
chief sub-editor
assistant music editor
assistant music editor
What’s your favourite way of traveling?
What’s your favourite way of traveling?
What’s your favourite food on the move?
I’m a bit of a fidgeter, so I’m not a great traveller. However, travelling by train is definitely the most exciting, especially when it’s raining. I particularly like the train journey from London to Glasgow, there’s such a dramatic change in scenery from the flatness of the South, the water in the Lake District and the dramatic hills of the North.
Trains are the best method of transport. I like loading up a TV series (most recently Homeland) and religiously chain-watching them over the course of a train journey.
Strawberries. If I can get my hands on them they’ll be gone faster than I can get from one place to another.
Have you ever made the first move? I have been a bit cheeky and made the first move a couple of times, but I’m quite shy so it’s rare for this to happen. I can’t stand romantic gestures or cheesy chat-up lines, so I always find first moves incredibly awkward. Which film moves you to tears? I love a good costume drama, they’re always so dramatic and full of emotion. I think the last film I cried at was The Young Victoria, I find it so moving that Queen Victoria laid out her husband’s clothes for forty-years after his death.
Have you ever made the first move?
What’s your favourite way of traveling?
Does making awkward accidental eye contact count?
I love to fly, it’s beautiful to be up in the skies when you fly first thing in the morning and the sun is just coming up.
What do you like to do on a Sunday?
What do you like to do on a Sunday?
I like to do everything and go everywhere with my duvet. Including, but not limited to, catching up on blogs, downloading music, ordering chinese food and pretending to work.
Sunday’s are my chilled day. I spend half of it in bed with my headphones in listening to whatever new band, with a couple of litres of various smoothies.
What’s your favourite food on the move? Packaged sandwiches and blue powerade are my staple diet for travelling.
Have you ever made the first move? The awkward cringy side of me always stops that, I’d rather stay in the friend zone than possibly embarrass myself.
IN THIS ISSUE 92 12 84 154
100
READ
012 breaking into the fashion industry 020 bringing success to life 030 fresh tracks 040 homeless for the holidays 048 androgynous fashion 050 tactile transitions 054 les filles en fluer interview 064 snap fashion
LIVE 144 I am thankful for 154 DIY decor 162 California dreaming
WEAR
052 060 068 078 088
february shoe calendar women’s trends striking distance march show calendar men’s trends
EAT/ DRINK 146 tea and cake 150 seasonal recipes 156 breakfast recipes
LISTEN
100 106 113 114 122 124
ruby and the ribcage new album releases physical music live reviews movements in music songs to dance to
LOOK 080 084 128 130 132 136
a la disposition London Collections: Men the life of ziggy pop goes the tate movie previews alternative road movies
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BREAKING INTO THE INDUSTRY It may seem a tough time for those wanting to break into the fashion industry, but with the inspiration of London Fashion Week just around the corner, we speak to designer Nicola Baum about cracking an often misunderstood niche, how to wow employers to get that first internship and what it’s like working with Victoria Beckham…
choosing fashion I don’t think I ever really chose fashion, I think it chose me. When I was a child, I thought I wanted to be a ballet dancer, a model or an actress. Then I realised it wasn’t actually about the aspects of the jobs they were doing – it was all about the clothes they were wearing. I loved the colours, the textures and the glitz. When I was about ten, I started going for sewing lessons with one of my mum’s friends at her house once a week. This lady taught me how to thread a sewing machine, what a pattern looked like and how to cut one out. I made my first skirt and drawstring bag there. I still have the bag. After school, I went to Oxford College to do a BTEC in Fashion Design instead of A-levels like most of my peers. If you are solely interested in fashion then I would recommend this course as it gives you a good foundation before pursuing a degree. Choosing a University was a little harder. I didn’t feel ready to move to London from the sleepy village where I grew up and therefore chose to go to Winchester School of Art. Winchester was beautiful and because it was an art school as opposed to a University, all the courses were creative and in turn all the students.
words by hannah smithson • photography by nicola baum
• 013 •
the move to london Six months after moving back home, I finally managed to get a two-month placement interning at Jessica Ogden and one month lined up after at Betty Jackson. Jessica had the most beautiful studio in Kentish Town. I remember the night before her show at London Fashion Week, I was still sewing spots on to one of the dresses at 2am in the morning, it was going to be walking down the runway in a few hours time – I loved it! It was very exciting working on a collection and then being part of the show and the buzz. During both of my placements I would work on hand sewing, pattern tracing, embroidery and print artwork. Alongside that there would also be other less exciting things, like doing post runs, going into town buying threads that we might have run out of and running errands.
“I was still sewing spots on to one of the dresses at 2am in the morning, it was going to be walking down the runway in a few hours time – I loved it! ”
first jobs with top designers During my internship at Betty’s, which was extended by a few more months, I got on very well with everyone including her two designers. Both girls had been asking Betty for an assistant for a while, and because I had left University and had made an impression on them, they had suggested that I would be an ideal candidate. I, however, was unaware of this at the time, so when I got a call from Jessica’s studio offering me a Studio assistant role. I accepted the job. I told Betty that I was taking this role, and two days later she offered me a job of Design Assistant. I was thrilled going from having nothing to having two job offers within the space of two days. I decided to stay at Betty’s and it was a great place to learn all the mechanics of the industry, from choosing the right fabrics at the right price, working out how they’re going to behave, how you’re going to put them into a garment. At Betty’s you had to think about the whole picture and you were responsible for that because if I designed a dress that didn’t sell on the shop floor, I wasn’t being a good designer. Going to Victoria’s I had a completely different role as Development Coordinator so I was managing all the people that essentially make it all happen - that includes pattern cutters, machinists, and cutters. At Victoria’s, because of the price points of the garments, there is a freedom on the fabrics and the components you can use. At Betty’s I had to be very careful when designing because of the margins we needed to achieve but there is a freedom when you work on a luxury product.
• 014 •
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working with victoria beckham Victoria was very exciting to work for - she has a thriving business and it’s a well-recognised luxury brand. I learnt an awful lot during my time there as I was suddenly managing a very big team. Of course the travelling was very exciting, the flying to LA to work with Victoria Beckham - you’re making her dream a reality so that part’s great. I worked at New York Fashion Week a couple of times and that’s brilliant because it’s New York, it’s very buzzy and you get to be surrounded with Victoria’s team of stylists, make up artists and beautiful girls, so that side of it is really exhilarating because she works with the best of the best, which is amazing and there are very few people who can get to do that. Victoria’s team is one of the nicest I’ve ever worked with. The team becomes your family. On one trip I was with two colleagues and we were in New York for nine days for the show and then flew straight from New York to Paris for another three days for Premiere Vision, and so you basically live with these people. They are such intense hours over the show and the night before the show you’ll be up until 3:30 in the morning and you have to get up two hours later to get ready for the show because call time is 6:30, it’s hard at the time but it’s all part of the buzz.
from vb to french connection After Victoria’s, although I built up other skills, I wasn’t designing which is where my heart is – I started looking for another job and actually saw French Connection three times before I got offered the job. The hardest thing about applying for jobs in fashion is getting your portfolio up together, it takes up so much time. For each different brand that you’re going to an interview for you have to tweak your portfolio for them. It can be painstaking – you can be going for an interview on a Monday for a tailoring role and then on the Friday you’ll be going to a brand who just want to see dresses. A CV will only get you so far – it may get you in the door but a lot is down to personality and your work has to fit as well.
“Of course the travelling was very exciting, the flying to LA to work with Victoria Beckhamyou’re making her dream a reality so that part’s great.”
top tips Be proactive – Use all your contacts, speak to your university tutors and see if they have contacts in the industry. Sign yourself up with fashion agencies and apply directly to companies. LinkedIn is a good website more social media is being used now for human resources. It’s important to know that you will have rejections. I’ve had my fair share of ‘no’s. It can feel very personal and it is but if you keep working hard and keep trying it will happen for you – keep the faith! Reveal your personality – Although a CV might get you the interview, a combination of your portfolio and personality will get you the job. Getting a high grade at university might seem very important at the time but when I have interviewed people I look at their work, the experience that person has and whether I think they will fit well within the team. I very rarely look at people’s university grades and judge them on that. The people that smile, are energetic and enthusiastic even over the most boring tasks, I remember these people. It pays to be remembered.
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a creative condition I was on a platform in Battersea with my friend Julia once, I think after graduate fashion week and we were helping out with the information desks and I said to her something about the alphabet being in coloured letters and she sort of looked at me like I was totally stupid. I said ‘don’t you see letters and numbers in colour?’ I checked this out after Julia still seemed baffled, it’s a condition that’s called Synesthesia. Synesthesia is where your senses get muddled up. I see letters and numbers in colour. For example, if I look at your name Hannah, I’d see H as blue, A as brown, N as purple. I like to think I have a good sense of colour but I’m not sure it’s got anything to do with having Synesthesia. I love having Synesthesia; it makes me feel a bit more special. I love photography and I love photography books – there’s a couple I’d recommend for inspiration - After The Flood by Robert Polidori and another book called Phantom Shanghai by Greg Girard. I’m very inspired by imagery. After The Flood is about the aftermath of the New Orleans floods and all the buildings after that. So I like looking at colours within chaos. I love old designers like Erté as he drew some beautiful illustrations back in the 1920s. But currently, I love Marni, I love Stella McCartney because she’s modern and feminine.
the best bits The best bits of fashion are when you have an idea and then you draw it, toile it on a stand or pattern, cut it and then you actually see that garment in reality and it’s how you imagined it or it’s better and you see it on a body and the person that’s wearing the garment loves it. I think what tops all of it off is the people I’ve met along the way and I’m not just talking about the famous and the well-known people in the fashion industry. I’ve worked with some brilliant people and I think that is a misunderstanding of the fashion industry – that it’s very tough and snide – because it’s not, it’s brilliant.
• 019 •
BRINGING SUCCESS TO LIFE Animation company Blue Zoo have been busy in 2012 winning BAFTAs for Best Independent Production Company, while its directors are actively lobbying the government for tax breaks in the creative industry and visiting Ethiopia to source drawings from deprived children for their programmes. Co- founder and Head of Development at Blue Zoo, Oli Hyatt, speaks to Pebble about inspiring Ostrichs, maths geniuses and BAFTA winning staff members.
words by hannah smithson • animations by blue zoo studios
• 020 •
meet the animator Cup of tea in hand, a tall casual figure in a pale yellow hoodie and stripy beanie, introduces himself as Oli. His name, I notice, is on a few of the many awards on the wall as I enter the building just opposite Old Portland Street Station, where the Blue Zoo office is based in London. Blue Zoo is an independent animation company that has just won Best Children’s Independent Production Company of the year 2012 at the BAFTAs and so I arrive armed with lots of questions and intrigue. More so when I find out that the guys who set up this multi-BAFTA winning company were all straight out of University when they began making a successful business out of the thing they were good at and enjoyed, this simply being the art of animating.
“That’s the biggy for us really,” Oli says whilst motioning to the BAFTA that won Blue Zoo Independent Production Company of the Year 2012. “I mean we’ve be involved in several other BAFTA wins where we’ve been just a production company or just played a small part in it; but number one, you don’t get to keep the BAFTA, and number two, it doesn’t really feel like yours, but the one we got this year is a massive thing because it’s saying that everything we’re doing is good. I think the others were for individuals working on individual shows, so Adam who’s one of the owners here - he won one for Breakthrough Talent and another one was for Helen for her directing but they all stay here because they all feel like company awards really.”
Oli warmly welcomes me into an office with an array of animated characters on the wall and coasters around the room. I also spot three gleaming BAFTAs sitting happily on the shelf behind this rather fun character himself, who increasingly makes me feel quite childlike and giggly as I chat to him.
• 021 •
what’s in the name? Blue Zoo set up over thirteen years ago when cofounders Oli, Adam and Tom were sat around a table at their University bar debating what to call their company. Blue Egg, Blue Zoo and Blue Box were initial ideas that later materialised into Blue Zoo due to website address availability. “We decided quite early on during what I would call our ‘debates’, which were actually just arguments, that we would try and link a colour with something unusual,” says Oli. Blue Zoo was created after they saw another group of students set up their own company about two years before and who were working out of someones basement. “They had a pretty naf showreel, were really geeky and not very personable and somehow they were making a go of running an animation business and so we thought if they can make a go of it then why can’t someone else? We were all students with student debts and no money so had nothing to lose,” says Oli who relaxes as I ask about Blue Zoo’s successes.
It happened to be a really good time to set up an animation company, as Oli explains, because previously there were only five Channels and suddenly Freeview and Sky were just coming into force and all the children’s channels were having all their own section. “We suddenly realised that they’d need tons of new programming and they’d need it reasonably cheap and we could provide that coming straight out of Uni. We started out from our investors home - we were sleeping in his daughters’ bunk beds in the South End. I’m not sure where his daughters were though…” The boys had decided that they needed to be in London to be taken seriously and so got their first address on Regents Street – “It was a room where our investor stored his hats – he was a hat manufacturer and the only connection he had with animation was that he made hats for Disney once so thought he understood the industry,” explains Oli.
• 022 •
“Weirdly our business plan was only about three sides of A4 long. It was based on the talent we thought we had. We just thought that we were good and we wanted to prove that we were. I have authority issues with people telling me what to do so I thought I better be my own boss,” he laughs. Blue Zoo has since gone from four young guys with talent, ambition and vision to a company based in the heart of London, employing over 120 staff members, and supplying animation commercials and programming to companies all over the world. “We do a lot better than we used to, but people would think we’re mad for the amount of money we pay ourselves because it’s relatively little - we try to put a lot of money back into the company. In the beginning we were on minimum wage and if someone went over to one of the big film companies and got offered thirty or fourty grand, it would be very tempting not to come back to the company. So we all decided that we’d stick it out and did horendous cold calling for about six months. Which was just awful.”
“Weirdly our business plan was only about three sides of A4 long. It was based on the talent and ideas we had and the belief that if we worked hard enough, and other people could do it, then we could do it too.” • 023 •
animation uk The company thereafter went from strength to strength. Last year, Oli single-handedly set up Animation UK, an organisation to campaign for fairer trading conditions for UK producers. “We were the ones that lobbyed the government to get the tax breaks for the creative sectors and animation. It’s great that we got through. I mean I spent about a year of my life knocking on politicians doors.” During his political escapades, Oli and Blue Zoo commissioned a report and took it round to politicians until they took action. As a result of Oli’s ‘ranting’, next year anyone doing work in the UK, so long as it is with a UK based animation company, culturally European or British based, will get 26% tax rebates on core costs from their project. “It’s changed things around already - loads of work’s coming back to the UK.” Oli reveals that during his time out door knocking, he missed animating and is glad to be back in the office.
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“I set up Animation UK which sort of represents our industry to the government and we were the ones that lobbyed the government to get the tax breaks for the creative sectors and animation.”
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the child’s story According to Oli, animating is a mixture of three things “It’s kind of a third acting, a third drawing and then a third maths.” “Basically growing up and at school, I was really dyslexic. My school life was just red pen - history, english, whatever, so I never got anyone telling me that anything I did was worth anything.” Later on in his professional career at Blue Zoo, this early struggle motivated Oli to go into schools where children were having difficulties and tried to encourage their creativity by empowering them. “Actually three guys have just got back from a trip from Ethiopia where the UK people wrote the stories and Ethiopian children drew the pictures.” ‘Olive the Ostrich’ is one of Blue Zoo’s children’s programmes where animators bring to life real pictures drawn by children creating all the guest characters, places and objects that Olive encounters. “Luckily Nickolodeon really got behind that idea, y’know it helps them, they are doing something for the community. And they know that they’ll get a really good show at the end of it and children really enjoy the workshops. Some entries obviously weren’t drawn by children – ‘the boobasaurus’ was definitely not a childs story.”
“Olive the Ostrich which is on Channel 5 and Nickelodeon is just totally our idea born out of another idea of us going into schools in deprived areas and getting children to draw the pictures for it.” • 027 •
glamourous maths It’s not all creative and silly. Oli reveals that animation is as much to do with monsters as it is maths. “I’m not a maths genius but you get various people who are. It’s good if you understand it, but you don’t have to,” says Oli. “It’s really complicated, it’s sort of similar maths you find in aeroplane design; it’s all about curves and shapes. There are some programmers here who sit and look at numbers on a screen and see how we can make those numbers lower because it will make things happen quicker.” Oli describes the industry but says, “Glamourous is the wrong word because it’s not glamourous but it’s a cool thing to do, it’s exciting. When I grew up, my A-levels were theatre studies and art with history, so I always wanted to be an actor or a fine artist, both of which are dubious careers. I saw animation as a half way house between the two things, you’ve got to be a good actor to animate the character and you’ve got to be a good artist as well. But how animation started was just people doing it for the love of it, a lot of people making kids TV years ago didn’t really get any money for it.”
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what’s next? “Films - next week we’re moving to the new floor. We’re going to have two big projects going at the same time, and a few smaller ones. It would be great to make films and develop more ideas that we can do merchandise off the back of - that would be a big step for us. Depending on what Aardman are doing, we’re pretty much going to be the second largest children’s animation company in the UK. That’s going to be a big enough job for the next few years.”
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FRESH TRACKS There’s nothing better than arriving at a ski resort when there has been massive snowfall overnight and getting up for fresh tracks the next morning. It is like being five-years-old again on Christmas day…
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words by hannah smithson •
photography by hannah smithson
As you hastily anticipate what awaits you at the top of the lift, there is a freedom that comes from the feeling of being on top of the world, looking downhill and not knowing where your skis or board will take you. Your creative mind switches on as you decide which part of the clean, untouched, unspoiled icing covered cake to slash up. Skimming the terrain to figure out which route to take, which rocks and objects to cruise off of, challenges the very best. You can slide downhill on both one plank or two and there is considered rivalry to note when deciding, but I would encourage anyone thinking of taking up a new sport after the inspiration of this years London 2012 Olympics, to take up either or both if you haven’t already. This is a blossoming time of year to visit the snow and prime season for those who have fallen in love or perhaps have yet to start their love affair with the mountains. Mine began when I was twelve-years-old and my sporting father decided to take us on an alternative holiday that later turned out to replace our regular summer vacations. To which my mother wasn’t best pleased when she was put off skiing altogether after breaking her hand on her first attempt on the slopes.
‘This is a blossoming time of year for those ready to start their love affair with the mountains.’
• 031 •
But not to put you off - in fact some of my best memories from the piste were the fun and games from my first skiing holidays, when your entire party is like Bambi on ice. These early weekly stints on the snow led to two six-month seasons in the French Alps on my gap year. Having accumulated a few pulled ligaments and fractured shins along the way, I can safely say I would do it all again in a flash. So whether you’re a seasoned veteran or new to the concept of a snow-sports holiday in the Spring, then look no further – here’s your ‘how to’, ‘where to’ and ‘what to’ guide for starting your winter escapade…
• 032 •
in anticipation of the ride Most of us Brits start with the idea of a skiing holiday and head to our local snow zone. But skiing and snowboarding are outdoor sports so it only seems right to start in the great outdoors. Alternatively, you can hit up one of the UK’s 42 outdoor dry-slopes. Despite it not being quite as authentic as the real thing; Snowflex, AstroRide and Perma-snow with their plastic matting, are a good place to start getting the feel for the ski movement. The bonus also being when you start riding on snow you will find it 100% easier. To find your nearest slope, visit natives.co.uk. You then need to make sure you have somewhere warm to shelter you from those snowy nights and there is something about being surrounded by snow that makes you feel like hibernating, so often those cosy log cabins you see in movies and in brochures are a good bet. Rest assured you may need to book another holiday after your ski trip as it doesn’t quite compare to sun lounging. Make no mistake, snow-sports holidays are exactly what they say on the tin - they are sports holidays so prepare to be active and burn off some calories, but also expect to be dazzled by the natural beauty that surrounds you; and nine times out of ten, you’ll have an innate urge to explore it with your own two feet. Perhaps more importantly, where should you go? Where there is a will there is a way - so if Aspen or Whistler take your fancy or even somewhere as far out as Japan or Chile, then don’t waste time and grab those great early or late deals when they pop up. Likewise, don’t underestimate the skiing potential on your doorstep. Europe has some of the best skiing, with the Trois Vallées in the French Alps having the largest linked skiing area in the world, with 600km of pistes available to beginners, intermediates and pros alike. If you want guaranteed snow in Europe head in the direction of Val Thorens or Val D’Isére - two of the highest resorts in Europe that are 99.9% guaranteed to have snow all season round, but be prepared for the high altitude that comes with this promise. If you’re looking for sun and good weather - check out Méribel, the sunniest side to the three valleys, or Alpe d’Huez in the southern Hautes-Alpes, home to the longest piste in the alps - the 16km Sarenne. You definitely won’t run out of skiing in these top spots.
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into the wild Once the lure of the mountains has captured your imagination, there may be a temptation to go where no others have gone before. The challenge of off-piste may also come with dangers and one of the first unwritten rules of snow-sports is to have respect for the mountain and its weatherly changes. So if the white stuff is calling you then make sure you have all the right equipment to venture into the wild and hiring a local ski guide is always highly recommended. For beginners, lessons with the local ski school are always a wise idea but make sure you budget extra for this, as they don’t come cheap. As to avoid accident make sure you have good equipment. A bad workman always blames his tools like a horrible skier always blames his skies. So make sure the local ski hire shop rents you decent equipment – waxed and sharpened and tailored to suit your needs. There is nothing worse than feeling uncomfortable on the slopes.
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aprés ski Last and by no means least, there is no point returning home without sampling a taste of the local culture. Wherever you are in the world, all ski resorts will have heard of aprés ski or ‘after skiing’ as the French translates. This is a special time in the afternoon when all you can think about is guzzling down a nice cold beer, or warming up with a hot wine or hot chocolate and rum. This can often be the best part of your day when you discover the local watering holes and have a few of those well-deserved beverages.
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a chalet girl in the mountains Clare Grundrill, 24
I decided to go on a ski season because I didn’t want to get a nine-to-five proper job after college. I wanted an adventure and didn’t want to get tied down to having a house, a car and paying bills. I love skiing, despite having only been twice before with my school and to Andorra with friends. Some of the people I was working with had never hit the slopes before. So anyone can do it. The difference between being there on holiday and being there for the season was that it became your home. You had a base and friends who became your little family who I used to cry to and have laughs with and you got to know the local people, the bars and the mountain really well, so you knew where to go. The work was hard and had really long hours but it was also rewarding when you contributed to your guests having a nice holiday. And we got really good tips especially around Christmas - I think the most we accumulated in one week was 150 euros. There is a work hard play hard mentality on seasons. And I think there are some stereotypical views of chalet girls working to the grindstone but its not all that bad if you can have fun at the same time. I can’t say I adapted brilliantly to the French way of life - I didn’t learn any French, mainly because I was working with an English ski company so all the staff and guests were English, as well as a lot of people around resort. The main local bar was called Underground named after the London underground so a lot of the locals were English too. But there is definitely opportunity to learn another European language if you are keen. I spent my season in Alpe d’Huez, which is famous for being very warm with lots of sunshine. When you get to about March time it starts to get really hot – and one time we saw an old French man skiing in nothing but his Speedos! But among the ins and outs of taking off to those snowy peaks, just enjoy riding for what it is - sliding downhill for fun. Nothing more and nothing less than movement in the mountains.
‘March time it starts to get really hot – and one time we saw an old French man skiing in nothing but his Speedos! ’ • 038 •
the x games Standing for extreme games, The X Games is a yearly snow-sports event that is hosted in cities around the world, which showcases some of the best competing athletes and is a definite must if you are in the resort when they are on. This year The X Games will be hosted in Tignes, France between 20th -22nd March 2013, along with other host venues including Los Angeles, California and Aspen, Colorado. If you can catch them, then definitely don’t miss them.
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HOMELESS FOR THE HOLIDAYS words by joshua saunders • photography by calum murray • illustration by lauren kelsey
James Beavis spent over a week living on the streets of London this Christmas, witnessing life from a section of the community that society turns away from on a daily basis. He told Joshua Saunders about his filmed experiences of being homeless over the merriest season of the year; a time over spilling with tinsel, turkey and supposed generosity, during one of the coldest winters of the past 100-years.
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“I am truly out there, I am truly on my own with nothing,” said an understandably anxious 22-year-old student, he’d announced on his first of six video diaries that he would be spending Christmas homeless on the streets of London, to raise money for homeless charity Crisis. “I won’t have planned where I’m staying. I’m taking no money with me, no card, so I’ll have to beg for food and water. If I can get anything I’ll be giving any excess to Crisis… and if I can’t get enough, I’ll be going hungry and thirsty. I’m having no phone with me, no contact with my friends or family, I think I’m going to find the hardest thing this Christmas is not speaking to my dad, my gran, my mum and family.” He’d be spending nine days and eight nights experiencing homelessness first hand on the streets of Lewisham, one of London’s most deprived areas. He would be appealing to anybody watching his videos to donate or to share his initial video across Facebook and other social networking sites, and unbeknownst to him 1,384 people across the UK did. By the end of his time stint on the streets James accumulated just under 35,000 views from the YouTube videos that recorded his arduous endeavour. Beavis also managed to raise over £26,000 to help the homeless community seek refuge in Crisis centres dotted throughout the UK.
“It costs £20.48 for a place at Crisis centre and they were 150 beds short. Charitable giving has gone down by a fifth, it’s not that people won’t give it’s about finding a way to make people give,” said a healthier looking James Beavis, only a few days after returning back home. “I always thought I was quite a big, strong person” he said, “but it made me realise how weak I am, I’ve never done something so difficult in my life. I did it for 8 nights and there’s a guy I met who has done it every day for 12 years, he’s been set on fire, stabbed. I realised I couldn’t do it for that long, I think I’d have given on up life.” Trying to find work is a problem riddled task for people on the streets, as without an address it’s not possible to apply for a National Insurance card meaning they are unable to get a legal job and therefore run the risk of having to do things illegally. In December 2003 begging was made a recordable offense, it is an illegal activity but does not carry a jail sentence. James vehemently opposes this legislation, he questions “Why can’t you beg for yourself if you’re in need of charity? We’re cutting off the lifeline for these people. We are failing them because we can’t give them benefits either because they don’t have an address.”
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During his time on the streets James struggled to raise just under five pounds a day even in some of London’s high-footfall locations, including outside Tottenham Court Road train station, having been removed from inside by security. “I went an hour and a half without talking to people, there must have been 300 people walking past you a minute. “People don’t just turn their eyes away from you, they turn their whole head 90 degrees so as not to look at you. So if you’re not in their world, not in their vision, you’re not a problem for society, then they don’t need to tackle this issue; and we call ourselves a developed country...” Instead of begging, James would often find himself looking through bins for any remnants of food, including Christmas day, a time when no shops are open. “Begging is the most dehumanising thing ever,” James says, “I literally survived on as little as possible. You look down to the ground while saying it, it’s really the most humiliating thing and I think I’d find it even harder if I knew I wasn’t doing it for charity,” he recalls. In the first of his video diaries from the streets, which he spent the last of his money and missed a meal to upload in a nearby internet cafe, an exhausted and feverish James told viewers, “Last night was the hardest night of my life, four hours of worrying about being beaten up, bottled or knifed. It’s Christmas now, it’s about 4am in the morning and I’ve been kicked out of two stops, I’ve had my cardboard taken.” While his friends and family were overindulging on roast turkey dinners, James was getting progressively more sodden from the heavy rainfall sweeping England on Christmas day, in the evening he continued to say, “It’s really, really cold. I didn’t get enough money begging today so tomorrow morning I’m going to have to route through bins and I’m really hungry now.” He reflected, “The rain was pouring on my face, all my heat was sapping into the ground and it was so windy that my sleeping bag was filling up like a wind tunnel. “There’s cold, it’s not like a sharp shooting cold it’s a numb, bone aching cold, you don’t feel cold in your skin you feel cold in your bones. It’s your bones that are making your skin cold.” “I was actually starting to think like a homeless person, it’s ‘outstitutionalised’, you start to think us versus them,” James explained that the isolation of being homeless, estranged from the help of the public, left him feeling out of the institution - ‘outstitutionalised’.”
“There’s cold, it’s not like a sharp shooting cold, it’s a numb, bone aching driving cold, you don’t feel cold in your skin you feel cold in your bones.”
This split in society was further highlighted when he was filming outside of the prestigious Savoy hotel and a taxi driving passed nudged into him.
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“Someone threw a vodka bottle at me, [if it hit me] it would have screwed me up. It was a dead on shot but smashed before it reached me. You get upset from people treating you like crap.” Wanton actions like that leave the homeless community feeling further alienated from society, deprived of basic human kindness leaving a lot of people with an ‘us versus them’ mentality. A common misconception that fuels this segregation is the presumption that a lot of homeless people are drug and alcohol addicts. James has worked at one of Crisis’s homeless shelters for just over a year, he asked people stopping there about this widely presumed fact, “The people who I spoke to, who are homeless, don’t drink that’s for sure because it lowers your blood temperature, you get yourself food, hot drinks, also partly because of what people think of you. If people see a tramp drinking, it’s just another alcoholic beggar who made the wrong decisions in life and that it’s their fault that they’re there. Taking drugs is too expensive for most of the homeless people. Who can spend £40 or £50 on Class As when your budget for a week is less than £40?” Touchingly, when people from the homeless centre found out about James’s campaign many offered him money, “I think that just showed that we’ve got a community who are so willing to give so much back and then the way we treat them is not nice.” Changing people’s perceptions is at the mantra of James’s campaigning, his stint on the streets stemmed from wanting to raise enough money so that Crisis homeless shelter wouldn’t have to turn people away at Christmas due to a shortage of beds.
“Taking drugs is too expensive for most of the homeless people. Who can spend £40 or £50 on Class As when your budget for a week is less than £40?”
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Feeling compelled to make a difference for “a community no one was sticking up for”, his videos hastily revealed the harsh reality facing anyone without shelter over the festive period, during one of the UK’s coldest winters in 100-years. Government statistics in 2011 estimated that homelessness had risen by 14%, translating to 48,510 people living rough on the streets. The figure, deduced from the amount of applications for council assistance from homeless individuals, is suspected to be a mere shadow of the real calculation of England’s homeless population that are dwelling in squats, on the streets, stopping in hostels and temporarily crashing with friends. Research from homeless charity Crisis estimates the number is closer to 380,000. Contrary to the amount of people living in impoverished conditions on Britain’s streets, on Boxing Day Selfridges claimed to take £1.5million in the store’s opening hour, the company’s most successful hour of trade to date. It was also calculated that by the third week of January the
UK will have spent £22.8billion on the retail industry, a rise of £358million from last year. Stereotyping has led to what James considers to be the ‘dehumanisation of the homeless’. His time recreating what Christmas for the homeless is like has developed into a public awareness campaign to show them that “Not all people on the streets are criminals, they’re not all alcoholics, they’re not all drugs addicts, but they have something powerful to give back. They’ve got something they can really give to society and their community, and society has really let them slip through the net.” From his experiences, James now intends to lobby government with his findings to campaign for more help and support for the homeless, a populace that is often neglected and cut off from the much needed aid society, and the state can give. “I can turn around to them and say, ‘I’m not in this situation but I put myself in a similar situation.’” He would like to see the government opening late night centres for the homeless, where they can get cheap hot drinks, receive 24-hour advice on houses, jobs and other things. As well as providing somewhere to warm up at night, which can be one of the most dangerous times for someone living on the streets. James remembers this vividly from his eight nights sleeping rough in abandoned corridors and construction sites. “The sirens, you hear them all night and police cars passing constantly, it reminds you how vulnerable you are, because you’re asleep too, you have no way of protecting yourself. “I come from a boxing, martial arts background but if somebody’s going to come up to me and set me on fire or stamp on me I’ve got nothing as I’m asleep on the floor. I won’t know if they’re going to pull a knife on me and steal my stuff, it’s really worrying that society isn’t making a bigger deal of it.” Over the next year he hopes to alter racist views targeted at asylum seekers and immigrants by uprooting to another country for a month and a half without money, knowing the language or having a place to stay. Showing how difficult it would be to start a new life in a foreign country through his first hand video diaries. James hopes to open the eyes of the British public by allowing them to live through his filmed experiences and appreciate the tribulations facing any individual seeking a better life in a new country. Whilst in the process highlighting the unfair treatment and casual racism hurled at immigrants and asylum seekers in the UK on a frequent basis. He states passionately, “I’m not willing to live in a world where people treat other people like that. If it takes me doing something to get people talking then lets do it.”
“If somebody’s going to come up to me and set me on fire or stamp on me I’ve got nothing as I’m asleep on the floor”
You can watch James’s videos via: http://www.youtube.com/user/jamesbeavis1990
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BLENDING BOTH
Fashion is all about variety, and nothing says variety more than a masculine vs. feminine collaboration - especially when it challenges the status quo words by lauren anthony • illustrations by lydia coventry
Androgyny is the untouchable trend, born from a love affair between menswear and womenswear, resulting in a mysterious and eclectic combination of style versus gender. It is timeless, and can be mastered all year round. There is an undeniable yet subtle sexuality to the nature of androgyny, and that certain something about a woman in men’s clothing, whether it’s an oversized shirt or a tailored suit that gets designers all over the world booking female models with a boyish charm for their catwalk shows. This year is set to bring some exaggerated, structured necklines, tailored waists and velvet suits, proving that there is much more to the androgyny movement than a simple shirt and tie. For some, however, it is so much more than fashion, it’s a lifestyle choice; one that has caused a great deal of controversy and excitement in the fashion industry. Androgyny now goes much further than women dressing like men, and a sparkling example of this is Andrej Pejic, the King of unisex fashion. He is a world famous androgynous model, and a poster boy for so-called ‘genderless’ modelling, who was thrown into the spotlight after being chosen as the first man to model both men’s and women’s collections, leading him to a work for some of the most famously coveted brands.
him one of the most versatile models in the world and the epitome of the androgynous trend. Despite this, he is not, by any means, the only model who is advertising for both genders. Agnes Deyn represents the female party, and is well known for her elfin hair cut and ever-changing appearance, making her the perfect mannequin for a masculine trend. These ‘chameleon’ models are just one of the reasons why androgynous fashion has become so widespread and modelling has allowed for a huge shift in perception, encouraging acceptance and gender equality in this vast industry. We’re now entering a dimension of the trade where it is considered to be an aspect of popular culture to model both men’s and women’s fashion, and be almost unidentifiable in gender. This is what gives a collection that masculine edge; hence top designers have been opting for models of an androgynous nature. This not only opens new doors in terms of trends, but also encourages diversity in an otherwise gender specific industry. Androgyny has brought fashion into a new era, where gender is masked and garments are deviating from the mainstream, and we observers can’t get enough.
Pejic has been on billboards across the globe, as he soon gained huge success due to his undoubted individuality and was chosen for the most desirable of jobs, from being the face of Marc Jacobs to walking for Jean Paul Gaultier. All of this fame was a result of his unusual combination of masculine and feminine features, making
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TACTILE TRANSITIONS For fashion, the first few months of any new year can be difficult. But, help is at hand with our stepby-step guide on how to merge AW12 and SS13 together to provide beauty and balance, all at once words by tash salmon
It’s a new year and a whole new season for fashion. Our wintery wardrobes of layers and long socks are set to become interspersed with bright new spring and summer items. But if only it was as simple as flinging your winter coat to stage right, rolling up your sleeves and being thrown a pair of sunglasses from stage left. The winter-to-spring transition is no easy task but it doesn’t have to be taken on with bland knits and indecisive jacket and coat predicaments. Instead, inject some of the AW12 style into your SS13 looks. Embellishment was big in the later part of 2012 and why let that go to waste. Keep those winter coats and jackets out for just that bit longer and bring them into Spring with some added oomph.
One issue at this time of year is being strapped for cash after a merry, generous Christmas, even if that generosity was towards your own wardrobe. But fear not, as the answer lies in your creative hands, guided by my equally ingenious ideas. Firstly, you will need a coat. Plain hoodless coats can be found in any sale at this time of year and finding one at a bargain price is achievable. Even better for your purses, how about rescuing a forgotten coat from the back of your porch. Now choose your favourite decorative coat collar, from those that adorn the high street rails, and just go from there.
With fur and shearling, head to a haberdashery or a fabric shop and pick the material you most favour. You can pick up a few metres at a tasty price easily. Obviously High street stores are abundant with hoodless macs, buying the real deal would defy the whole point of this parkas and duffle coats with collars to die for. Whether you want brooches for attention, faux fur for a luxury look money saving task so choose cheaper alternatives, and for the daring, take a risk and try patterned faux fur. or shearling for comfort, the choices are all out there.
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Some skill is required in the sewing department but if you are desperate, and talentless, then passing the task to a friend or family member is allowed. Always remember to match the colour of the new collar to the original coat. A classy mac will never go out of fashion but neon pink faux fur may well age in a week, so be sensible fashion savers. For the fearless out there why not turn your harboring love of embellished shirts into a bigger crush for an embellished coat. A haberdashery raid for sequins and beads is one way of creating this look. Smatter the collar tip with an assortment of embellishments, by grouping them thickly at the very tip then gradually spreading them out. For a more subtle look it would be wise to not cover the entire collar but, looking at your coat, have your last beads only go as far back as a third of the way on each side. An obvious yet necessary tip to stick to is match your beads to your coats buttons or toggles. Match sparkle and glamour to silver and gold buttons but use more material based beads, sequins and buttons if working with wooden toggles. Coats with embellishment however are not resigned to those gifted in the skill of sewing; it can be achieved simply and also temporarily. How? Simply through the use of hair slides and clips. Accentuating the corners and points of your collar is an important aspect of this style and can be accomplished affectively with this technique. Layer various clips to create a busy effect like sequins and beads or place classic brooch-like slides singularly for a classy look.
topshop £8
florence and fred £28
Monochrome is a big trend for the upcoming season and a must of any collar redo, especially for those who are not so keen on loud embellishments. Place simple metallic detailed clips next to one another at the very edge and tip, again, for a sophisticated look. Need a quick fix? Raid your guy’s man draw for some tie clips and see if these give you that extra glint to your old coat. Finally don’t abandon your embellished shirts altogether. White shirts are big in the next couple of months so why not nail a cross over trend with an sequin collared shirt, or grab a left over hair clip and fasten as a brooch in the centre of your top button.
topshop £12.50
Whether it’s a coat or even a shirt, shifting from winter to spring fashion doesn’t have to be difficult. It can be dazzling and keep you warm all at the same time.
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topshop £12.50
FEBRUARY 2013 sunday mond saturday
friday 1
8
2
ASOS £TBC
9
DUNE £80
15
DOROTHY PERKINS £TBC
16
22
BURTON £32
NEW LOOK £29.99
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M&S
M&S
18
OFFICE £48
24
OFFICE £74.99
11
ESCAPE £120
17
23
OFFICE £74.99
10
J SHOES £TBC
MISS SELFRIDGE £75
4
3
OFFIC
25
OFFICE £89.99
PRIMA
SHOE CALENDAR day wednesday tuesday 6
5
S £59
12
£19.50
13
BURTON £38
19
7
DOROTHY PERKINS £TBC
14
M&S £59
BURTON £22
MISS SELFRIDGE £49
20
21
Topshop TBC
CE £58
ARK £12
BURTON £48
thursday
OFFICE £58
26
OFFICE £68
27
RIVER ISLAND £70
OFFICE £69.99
28
TOPSHOP £TBC • 053 •
VOLUNTEER £95
INNOCENCE TO EXPERIENCE
Designer Alessandra Mariotti’s priority are her clients, and as each delicate, feminine and classic piece emphasises, she knows them well. Les Filles En Fleur is a brand set to be big and one to watch in 2013 words by tazz gault • illustrations by steve panton
She is breathtakingly beautiful, a real gemstone with Italian elegance and English wit sewn together. The soft lines and welcoming shapes of her SS13 collection match the designer perfectly, as Alessandra Mariotti greets me in her retro-esque biker jacket with a smile to die for. Alessandra set up Les Filles En Fleur in 2011 with her stepsister, Alexandra, but since then has developed the brand to capture the eye and keep you there for longer than you intended. Her use of high end, quality material goes unmissable as each garment screams sophistication fit for any lady. “One fabric I really do love is velvet – I always have and always will,” she laughed, whilst stood in front of a velvet waterfall dress, in a beautiful, reflective water-shade, like the sea and sun smudged together in one. “I like things that feel good and really, that’s the most important thing to me. I need to be able to touch something when I go over to it, so I make sure my pieces are tactile. I tend to buy most of my fabrics from the UK as it’s really nice to be part of the whole London fashion life, and in a way, it’s kind of like a family.”
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“My design process happens in a way so that it is integrated in my day-to-day life – it’s the same as grabbing a cup of tea.”
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Alessandra is a half Italian half English Goddess, whose natural skill for understanding the consumer’s need makes her stand out from the rest. “You need to be able to see your creative ideas when designing and so it’s really important to see what your clients think of them too,” she nodded, emphasising her love for the buyers as they mingled around Wolf and Badger’s showroom. A breath of fresh air sweeps by as Alessandra divulges more explanation as to why she designs how she does, laying down ground rules that are any girl’s dream. “I think clothes should fit real bodies. As a designer, you need to learn what part of their bodies people want to show off, and which pieces they would rather hide. I like to try and emphasise the upper waistline because that’s the smallest part of anyone and a part people are happy to show. If you manage to draw attention to that and have creative volume everywhere else, you will create something that works for every kind of woman.” Before setting up Les Filles En Fleur, Alessandra spent a few years working in different areas of the fashion industry, including designing, production, event organising and working alongside start-up companies. “I always knew I wanted to do my own thing, but before I went for it I wanted to make sure I had experience in
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“I think clothes should fit real bodies. As a designer, you need to learn what part of their bodies people want to show off, and which pieces they would rather hide.”
every part of the industry,” she shrugged with a knowing smile. “When I did decide to start my own business though, it definitely wasn’t quite how I expected!” Alessandra has worked for Jil Sander, Nicole Farhi, Christopher Kane and Corlette London in the past, and so knows more than enough about the pressures of the fashion industry. “When I worked in Italy, I always seemed to work for an accessory brand, including Jil Sander. You had to think of around 300 different handbag designs every time they asked – it got to a point where I really didn’t think I could think up another individual design,” she laughed. “I am someone who isn’t particularly passionate about accessories. I always keep mine to a minimum as they’re just not something I’m interested in, so it was really interesting to have to push myself and see what I could come up with. In fact, I learnt more about myself there than in any other part of my career.” Common ways to begin the design process include falling in love with that one dream fabric, painting the walls with inspirational clippings or the classic sketching, screw up into a ball and throw into the trash and try again until the final piece is drawn. But, for Alessandra,
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her job is also her life, and so the two are not so separate. “My design process happens in a way so that it is integrated in my day-to-day life – it’s the same as grabbing a cup of tea. I don’t sit down to design, but every day I wake up there are three blogs I check. They’re my starting point as it’s good to see what’s going on in fashion, on the street and online.” Her other techniques include a fast and furious sketch whilst on the move, and using her own wardrobe as a platform for future developments. “My biker jacket in this collection is actually based on something that I found ten years ago in a horrible store. When you work from scratch you can make some lovely things, but doing it this way and using already made inspiration creates a different feel,” she nodded, as progressive house filled in the gaps around us. A dare devil in her own style, Alessandra is clearly not afraid to push the boundaries in terms of fashion. “I once went to a really glamorous ball in a men’s tuxedo, and actually, everyone said I looked great,” she giggled, whilst playing with the natural curls dropping perfectly at the end of her locks. “Everyone else was wearing beautiful dresses, but I thought I’d be different and turn up as one of the guys.” As just a womenswear designer,
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“I once went to a really glamorous ball in a men’s tuxedo, and actually, everyone said I looked great. Everyone else was wearing beautiful dresses, but I thought I’d be different and turn up as one of the guys.”
Alessandra expects she will stick to dressing the fashionable female, rather then delving into menswear too. “I don’t think I understand men’s fashion enough to design for them – I think men do a better job at creating men’s fashions as they understand their mentality better. I would like to do a collaboration though and get a man to design for my audience, and if I could pick anybody, it would be my boyfriend. He’s actually a musician, but I love the way he dresses. It’s kind of like he tries to translate what he does in music and in some ways, he’s a masculine version of me. We have very similar tastes and I trust his opinion.” With the next two collections already designed in her mind, Alessandra lives and breathes Les Filles En Fleur. “For AW13 I want to bring it to just a few very important pieces. I will keep the silks and the velvet, and will always have a drape, a coat and a shirt, but I would love to bring in a 1950s full skirt to be one of those pieces that makes you feel amazing.” Monochrome is set to continue to feature heavily in the up and coming collections, but there will be one major change. “I think I’m going to introduce red – try something different and make a statement with colour. Hey, why not!”
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BLAST FROM THE PAST
WOMEN’S
Step back to the 60s, but this time, add a modern twist. Think Broderie Anglaise and shift dresses with appliqué flowers, and unexpected colour schemes. Louis Vuitton and Moschino are the best of the bunch from the high-end brands, teaming hippy styles with monochrome, and bold check prints. Team sheer boxy tops with pencil skirts and platform boots to take this trend from dippy hippy to a completely classic look.
office £35
primark £30
izabel £26
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asos £TBC
TRENDS
CANDY CANE Candy stripes are unavoidable this spring, with burgundy reds and navy blues coming top of the charts. Opt for a sugar sweet look in sage green and peach, and try horizontal stripes if you’re feeling adventurous. Look to Marc by Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors for the more classic styles and House of Holland for the exaggerated and oversized. Wear fitted pencil skirts with a contrast bralet, statement jewellery and mid heel stilettos to master the trend.
river island £25
dune £80
asos £TBC
asos £38
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dune £60
FONDANT FANCIES
WOMEN’S
Be the icing on top of the cake in the frostiest pastels this spring. Corrie Nielsen showcases the best pieces, choosing flowing lace in the prettiest colours and plenty of organza. Wear the pastel trend best in lingerie style dresses with pretty trims and dainty mid length skirts. Topshop is the master of wearing underwear as outerwear, where Erdem comes top of the class, as always, with pastel florals.
topshop £TBC
miss selfridge £59
dorothy perkins £49
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office £58
miss selfridge £55
TRENDS
GEOMETRIC GRAPHICS
Linear designs and block patterns combined with monochrome are set to be popular in the coming months, with clashing patterns and colours being the ultimate way to wear. Topshop Unique have tailored their SS13 line closely to this trend, focusing on grey, white and black with statement heels. H&M has some of the best high street pieces, mixing bold patterns with colour block platforms.
missguided £22.99
tamaris £TBC
topshop £180
new look £14.99
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SNAP.
that’s a pair if I’ve ever seen one words by tazz gault • illustrations by lydia coventry
Jenny Griffiths, CEO and founder of Snap Fashion, talks about how her picture perfect business can help improve your wardrobe
SNAP. The flash goes off and the image is recorded forever. Your own personal memoir of that beautiful designer dress by Peter Pilotto is now saved on your phone, so you can dream about it some more and pretend that one day, £1500 for a pretty little frock will seem like peanuts. High street shopping is a treat as you can afford to snap yourself up a SS13 wardrobe, but nothing beats a cheeky look around the designer boutiques, where shopping becomes an experience of elegant silks, flirty velvets and striking leather. No one needs to know you can’t afford it.
SNAP. It looks the same, but you know how much it was really. Sometimes, grabbing a bargain can add to the beauty of the outfit, but other times, those little secrets are best kept to ourselves. Saving £1500 for that Peter Pilotto dress seems a welcomed distant memory now.
SNAP. A brand new way to merge high street and designer shopping into one, but at a price you can afford. Upload it onto the app or wait until you get home and watch hundreds of alternatives pop up waiting for you to scream ‘snap’ and order it home. Style, cut, colour and embellishment can be mirrored at a cheaper price, as its mighty fine image search ability puts all your worries to ease.
Jenny Griffiths, CEO and founder of Snap Fashion, is the brains behind the bizz when it comes to knowing how women shop and what they want to see. The frustration when you can’t find anything similar to the skater dress in your magazine, or your own version of Ann Hathaway’s Chanel couture dress from the Golden Globes is far more stressful than our other half realises, and it’s about time someone found a cure. Snap fashion is a search engine that uses images to discover matches, saving you time, money and prevents your mind wandering during a meeting on that hat you really need to find. SNAP!
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“Our launch last September was really exciting. We had coverage in Vogue, The Times and The Independent, which were all the things we had dreamt about and more,” said Jenny, still with a touch of shock in her voice. “We are hoping to be at London Fashion Week this February with a little pop up shop in Westfields or Blue Water maybe, so that we can bring Snap Fashion alive and entice people in.” Jenny is a 25-year-old Science graduate and was just one of only two girls in her class at the University of Bristol, where she first invented Snap Fashion. “Being a women and having any interest in fashion, let alone doing my final year project on it was strange. At the time I didn’t really think about being one of the only girls and was used to being surrounded by male engineers,” Jenny laughed. “I was once invited to someone’s stag do, and had to remind them that I am actually female and not one of the lads. Even my professors were all male!” Although the idea for Snap Fashion stemmed from Jenny’s university project, it didn’t get its final push until a little later. “I didn’t have the guts to do it properly in the first place,” she giggled. “I actually had a good job offer after I graduated, which was pretty rare at the time what with the recession, so I bottled it and thought I would work on Snap in my spare time. That’s when I started to really get into it.” Currently just for women, the site has over 100 of your favourite retailers on its database, including Topshop, Uniqlo, Reiss, ASOS and Bloomingdales. Jenny hopes that this summer will be Snap Fashion’s chance to extend the brand for men too.
“The fashion side of things has actually been the biggest learning curve,” Jenny told Pebble. “I have the tendency sometimes to be that person in jeans and a t-shirt, but I have always loved fashion. It was more understanding how far in advance things are done in the industry.” But Jenny clearly knows more about fashion than she’s letting on, with a love for some of Pebble’s favourite designers. “I, love, Henry, Holland,” she stammered. “I was once giving a presentation that he was at too. We were in the room out the back before going on stage when I thought it was a great idea to give him a little wave. I got a pretty strange look back - the last thing he wanted was a massive fan waving in his face just before he had to present. I’ve also given my business card to Christopher Kane – that was too exciting!” For those without a business mind but would want to know an entrepreneurs first thought, it always seems to be Dragon’s Den, mine included. “The thought did cross my mind, but once I thought a little more about the publicity you would get it put me off. It could work in your favour, or it could go completely against, depending how it was edited. When you are new to the industry it is definitely a risky thing to do,” she explained. The site allows you to create wish lists and gift lists too, so it’s up to you how much of your wardrobe quirks you want to share. “It’s interesting to see what your friends want - we are so used to sharing so much information about ourselves that this is the ultimate nosey!”
Check out www.snapfashion.co.uk now, or download the app to your iPhone or iPad. Android’s are next on the list, promise.
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STRI
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KING DISTANCE photography by saskia lawson • collection ‘girl gang’ by designer taslima k • model keeana kee • make up by natalie coles • photo assistant sammie robinson
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friday 1
DUNE £80
OFFICE £70
DUNE £99
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MISSGUIDED £37.99
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BERTIE £115
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NEW LOOK £34.99
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TAMARIS £TBC
ASH £TBC
LANGTON £125
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M&S £49.50
ASOS £55
J SHOES £TBC
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saturday 2
8
MARCH 2013
VOLUNTEER £95
BURTO
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DUN
SHOE CALENDAR
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NEW LOOK £49.99
DUNE £TBC
OFFICE £65
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OFFICE £59.99
BERTIE £85
ASOS £18
20
26
DUNE £90
NEW LOOK £TBC
PRIMARK £8
ON £48
thursday 7
13
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wednesday
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BURTON £50
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BURTON £40
Ă€ La Disposition words and photography by joseph kent
Often in fashion, there is a distinct divide between men’s and women’s styles, created by separate designers working on separate sexes. But for those designers who work with both, similarities in design are commonplace, when influences, ideas and materials are one in the same. À La Disposition illustrated such a point within their debut menswear collection for AW13. Since the label’s launch in 2005, husband and wife Daniel and Lyda Kinne have envisioned and crafted fantastical pieces for the intrepidly fashionable woman, but now their designs and precision are shared with their men’s collection, restructuring the male silhouette in much the same way as the female form, with sharp cuts and varying yet traditional fabrics. “It’s nice how well it actually translates into menswear,” says Daniel, “especially since menswear has changed so much over the last couple of years. We have come to find that you can do these things and pull it off.” Particularly in Britain, home of menswear, there has been a growing interest in men’s fashion, in which the customer no longer feels so afraid to wear that which is striking or conspicuous in its style.
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À La Disposition’s collection, Black Snow, is remarkably bold, nonetheless there is definitely room in the industry to sell its unique and strong style. Its graphic novel inspiration turns the wearer into “the protagonist” of Daniel and Lynda’s story. “With the quality of fabrics and the construction of our pieces, the appeal is not just in the design, but also in the longevity of the individual pieces,” Daniel adds. “Which is very conscientious, when you are considering that it is not throw-away fashion - it’s really staple pieces, something that you cherish, that you really fall in love with. Keep it in your wardrobe and use it, or keep it as a collectable. “For the wider competition, it’s really great. We think our shirts are really strong. And we have a couple of t-shirt designs, which are a great entry-level price point for us - the first taste of what our collection is about and how it feels to wear our stuff.” The movement between womenswear and menswear has been a successful transition for À La Disposition, with much enthusiasm and excitement at their London Collections presentation. But while men’s and women’s remain separate collections by sex, the same genius and wondrous play on fashion is a shared privilege.
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London Collections: Men - Our Favourites words by tazz gault • photography by joseph kent • photography supplied by jenny schwarz
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JENNY SCHWARZ The Strand: a highbrow setting of sharp lines, minimalistic furniture and smooth surfaces which together built the modern setting behind a murderous collection. The contrast against Jenny Schwarz’s inspiration of the gang leader, the bank robber and murderer of Jesse James makes violent and illegal turn sophisticated and sharp. Strong, suave dinner jackets and heavy fur collars feature heavily in the collection, which could turn any man into a sophisticated gentleman at the pull of a trigger.
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HENTSCH MAN Hentsch Man pushed style to a new level, with monochrome block patterns and geometric prints dazzling the eyes and sanding down a sharp edge for a man’s wardrobe. Dogtooth and herringbone hung effortlessly off the models, clearly scouted from a tattoo parlour, showing a true hassle free approach to dressing. Out of any presentation during London Collection: Men, Hentsch Man was the most effortlessly cool.
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ORSCHEL READ “The collection is based on Bill Nighy,” said Stefan Orschel-Read. “If I could choose one person to dress I would always say him because he is wonderfully cool.” “We make everything in house which is a passion of mine. I grew up in Scotland, and with the decline of the home economy I wanted to do my best to help. We have the most wonderful heritage here which I try my best to portray, as well as making sure everything is ethically sourced.” “I love berry at the moment as it is a very warm colour. My collections are tactile but still very sophisticated, which is why I chose to do a presentation rather than a catwalk. That way, people can get up close and feel the clothes.”
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MEN'S
jeff banks £115
asos £30
BLAZERS OVER DENIM Denim shirts and blazers have been popular wardrobe pieces for many seasons, but it would seem a combination of the two has taken this look to the next level. Inspired by Brunello Cucinelli’s Spring collection the layering of denim shirts under a smart blazer brings both looks comfortably into 2013. This trend offers a strong-featured approach to day time outfits but is refined enough to serve for the evening too. Wear both your blazer and denim shirt undone for a casual day look but solidify your evening outfit by buttoning up, all the way. For a classic and simple approach match dark with dark and light with light but don’t be afraid to inject some colour in too. Mustard is big this season and a blazer this colour would go perfectly with a faded denim shirt.
primark £12
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TRENDS
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BLOCK PRIMARY COLOURS The catwalks this season have been full of block colours, but have no fear as they go old school and back to primary palettes. For those afraid of bright colours and often find it hard to match hues of seasons go, past designers are focusing on just red, blue and yellow. Michael Kors presented full colour outfits with matching shirts and trousers whereas Prada finished their 60s inspired outfits with primary coloured macs. Whichever way suits your style it is a must trend for this season. Be bold with a complete primary colour outfit, couple bright blue jeans with a matching shirt for a head to toe look. But for the faint hearted there is a solution. Primary colour accessories will suit a more muted outfit but keep you bang-on trend. jeff banks £85
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MEN'S
asos £16
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STRIPES From being just a subtle accompaniment to driving an entire look, stripes are back, bigger and better for 2013. Tommy Hilfiger had a nautical themed catwalk for this season and this influence has dripped into our favourite fashion stores. Get your thin striped blazer for a nautical meets school prefect look to engage with the subtle stripes of this season. But stripes are also giving us the opportunity to be bold, as Michael Kors demonstrated. Thick striped tees and jumpers in bright colours lit up his catwalk and have proven to be another aspect of the stripe sensation to hit the high street. Wear with colour block jeans and as we head into, hopefully, warmer weather couple with pastel or cream shorts to get the perfect Spring to Summer look.
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TRENDS
asos £28
asos £28
CAMO-FLORAL This time last year florals were big in the style stakes and yet again print is back but with a rugged twist. Camouflage print meets floral is big this spring and an easy trend to wear and love. Whether you go bold and wear printed jeans or keep casual with a top or jumper, camo-floral is appearing everywhere and can be worn by anyone. This style also works with accessories, demonstrated by Valetino’s camouflage trainers for SS13. Wear with jeans and chinos for a relaxed day look but smart camo print blazers for an evening look, this looks great with black jeans.
asos £28
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SIMPLY ICELANDIC photography by charlotte dart • collection kat martin menswear • model josh smith • make up by jenna barron
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RUBY AND THE RIBCAGE What do you do when you have an abnormally large ribcage and are told you are too loud for the school choir, form Ruby and the Ribcage of course!
words by sally rose mccormack • photography by joseph kent • illustrations by lydia coventry
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Sitting in the corner of The York Islington, with a few old men with pints dotted about, was Ruby Ribcage. Dressed more like she should be off on some pirating adventure or running through Sherborne forest rather than stuck in a dingy corner of a London pub. Ruby was seven-years-old and singing in her mum’s best mates front room when she first realised the joys of performance, from there she took up clarinet, saxophone and piano. Now twenty-five, Ruby is on the cusp of releasing Ruby and the Ribcage’s new EP, Runaway Ceiling, “I just like to perform, I don’t know about being a star, I am a bit of a show off.”
Ruby, isn’t alone in her musical storytelling, she is backed up by several band members and assorted instruments, called the Ribcage. After much trial and error, the Ribcage was inspired by Ruby’s own ribcage illustrations, which she claims is her “unusually large ribcage” and the idea that Ruby’s band members support her, much like the ribcage that supports her lungs. All very poetic much like her lyrics, every song follows a story, building and forming with a mesmerising voice erupting from Ruby’s lungs which drive each line.
Growing up outside of Cheltenham, with the support of her parents and grandparents in her musical dream, plus being allowed to run free into the hills, attributed to Ruby being “a bit of a nutter”. This is reflected brilliantly in her music, large landscapes of sound and no fear of boundaries, with her SoundCloud filled with ambitious live demos.
Currently the Ribcage half of the band is going under a transformation, from a folky acoustic driven band with a double bass, viola and violin, to a more plugged in feel. Ruby is now writing songs on electric and seeking more band members for this style. “Me and Sam, the drummer, have taken the band in a new direction and are doing more electric and stripped back stuff,” out with the old and in with the new, just in time for the New Year.
A formula of warming and large Kate Bush type vocals, indie folk and haunting story telling, all teamed with a retro feel is a winner. Influences range from Regina Spektor and Tori Amos to Daughter and Van Morrison. When asked about being compared to such artists Ruby revealed, “It’s only natural to draw comparisons. I’d love to think what I am doing is unique, but it is inspired by other people,” though not just musicians, there is a clear influence from the creative world in its entirety, with a love of illustrations and art.
Ruby and the ribcage aren’t just closing a chapter on their musical history, they are going out with a bang! “The acoustic side of the band has ended, we just wanted to have a celebration for all the hard work,” and that’s exactly what they are doing on February 22nd. It’s going to be a very busy day, this isn’t just a gig, the long awaited acoustic EP Runaway Ceiling will be showcased, along with beautiful music videos to accompany the songs. The four track long EP, has been a labor of love for the band, “It’s finally here and the tracks are four of my absolute favorites.”
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To finally be gaining recognition of her and the band’s work, particularly the response to the Live Demos on their SoundCloud, reflects their determination to get Ruby and the Ribcage’s music out there. Ruby’s life has been music, from a sevenyear-old girl belting out songs in a living room, to the 18-year-old who moved to London determined to pursue her dream. It hasn’t all been plain sailing for the front woman, aged twenty she developed a singers worse fear, Nodules. It was a huge deal at the time, “It was pretty awful at the time I had to go through speech therapy, before I could start up Ruby and the Ribcage,” but now it’s safe to say Ruby has got her voice back, with the new sound giving her a chance to use it in different ways. With new projects on the way and the launch of the bands EP in February, 2013 is shaping up to be a good year for the Ribcage. After doing twelve festivals last year, Ruby hopes to match it and possibly release some new songs. She is also currently, along with the transition of Ruby and the Ribcage, making music with another band called the Opal Veins. From seven to twenty-five Ruby has been forging her way, “I’ve always been determined to make this my career” and 2013 is another great stepping stone to the top.
Ruby and the Ribcage events
//06.02.2013 Paper Dress Vintage Store //22.02.2013 The Hackney Attic, EP Launch
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New Album Releases
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FOALS holy fire
8/10 words by will richards
Foals have become one of the biggest established British bands through their first two LPs Antidotes and Total Life Forever, and the majority of the indie world was blown away by the first single from new album Holy Fire, ‘Inhaler’, when it dropped a few months ago. That was joined by ‘My Number’, which the Oxford band performed on Later... With Jools Holland, also receiving unanimous praise. The rest of Holy Fire has a lot to live up to then, and as many bands in recent times have shown, it’s all too easy to have an album relying on and feeding off of its hit singles, and having little substance to back those songs up. A difficult third album? Let’s see... ‘Bad Habit’ recalls elements of ‘This Orient’ from second album Total Life Forever, and erupts into a wonderful shimmering pop chorus. ‘I’m a bad habit; one you can’t change’ croons Yannis Philippakis, whose vocals really excel throughout the album. You will have the tune to ‘My Number’ buzzing around your head for days after you hear. It’s a frighteningly addictive song, and a definite album highlight, something which will transalte very well to the live arena, reflected in the music video.
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The fiddly guitar lines, played high up the fretboard, that defined Foals’ work thus far have been replaced with more bassy, punchy riffs, displayed best in the chorus of the aforementioned ‘My Number’. The band sound bigger than ever before, and the finale to another highlight, ‘Providence’, is absolutely massive, and displays the band at their most experimental yet; ditching the math rock sensibilities that gained them their initial success, and creating a full blown rock song. It’s huge. A big tour in March is to come, complete with a show at the Royal Albert Hall which sold out in a measly 20 minutes, and maybe Holy Fire is the record that will confirm and cement Foals’ position as the best band in this country; something that they threatened and promised ever since the early singles ‘Hummer’ and ‘Mathletics’. Maybe Foals did have worries about this “difficult” third album, and what direction it would take them in, but they needn’t have flinched. They’ve created a special album; a possible record of 2013. Yes, it’s only January. It’s that good.
LOCAL NATIVES hummingbird
9/10 words by carrie mok
Local Natives have never been a band to make a big ruckus about their music and, as expected, the release of their second album Hummingbird has been quiet and modest. Hummingbird is different to their debut album, Gorilla Manor, which quickly sailed into our hearts four years ago and has stayed there ever since. Hummingbird is solemn, and none of the songs immediately jump out into your ears like the first album gems ‘Airplane’ and ‘Warning Sign’ may have. ‘Breakers’, for example, is disguised as being upbeat in its clappy intro but in reality it is the story of a man who has lost all meaning.
But Hummingbird does convey another narrative and certainly, the lyrics arouse an unwinding gentle forlornness. This can be best seen in the wailing of the opening lyrics “You and I, we were always strong / It was enough to keep me on” in ‘You and I’ and third song ‘Ceilings’ “Haven’t stopped your smoking yet, so I share your cigarette / Just to feel it in my fingers.” Hummingbird works because it is beautiful and truthful. There is a sadness in the album but it is merely the reflection of a band who are reconsidering themselves and their experiences.
CHRISTOPHER OWENS lysandre
7/10 words by samuel cornforth
Christopher Owens has had an outstanding past. It would be no surprise to see his story being made into a cult film in the future, inspiring tomorrow’s generation to indulge in his record collection. Last year it felt like Owens closed a chapter of his career prematurely after calling time on Girls, just as it seemed they were on the brink of something truly remarkable.
However, Owens’ ability to pour his heart out over the course of the album remains the constant to his success. He brings his tale to vivid life with jazzy interludes separating his stories. ‘Love Is In The Ear Of A Listener’ displays the insecurity and vulnerability of the former Girls singer. Whilst ‘New York City’ is a more playful romp with a brass section and ‘Honey Bunny’-esque guitars.
Lysandre is Owens’ first solo attempt and a conceptual record about a girl he met during his time on his first tour with Girls. The sprawling scuzzy guitars that characterised Girls have been replaced with gentle strumming in this folk tinged album.
Although Christopher Owens may not reach some of the soaring heights he did with Girls, the character we adore lights up this listen and makes this a perfectly executed snapshot of the past - a wonderful start to his solo career.
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THE JOY FORMIDABLE wolf’s law
8/10 words by will richards
The Joy Formidable really put themselves out there with their debut album The Big Roar, released at the start of 2011. Its expansive sound gained them daytime radio airplay, a slot opening Reading Festival’s Main Stage, and, thanks to none other than Dave Grohl naming ‘Whirring’ as his favourite song of 2011, a support slot with the Foo Fighters. More recently, the three-piece have toured the UK with stadium giants Muse, and played some small shows to road test new material. Said new material makes up their second full-length, Wolf’s Law, which largely picks up where A Big Roar left off, with Ritzy Bryan’s spacious vocals ripping through
first track and first single ‘This Ladder Is Ours’. There might have been whispers amongst critics and fans alike in the run up to the release of this album, wondering if the brilliant ‘Austere’, ‘Cradle’ and ‘Whirring’ could ever be matched on Wolf’s Law. You should see their faces after one spin of ‘This Ladder Is Ours’. It’s a straight up single and is quite a statement to begin this record with. ‘Maw Maw Song’ is truly epic, and the acoustic ‘Silent Treatment’ showcases Bryan’s vocals beautifully. Wolf’s Law is the solidifying album in TJF’s career that could allow them to enter stratosphere with album number 3.
everything everything arc
7/10 words by ben fisher
The four-piece band return with more falsetto than ever before as Arc panics its way to being another hit or miss album, depending on your tolerance towards Jonathan Higg’s samey high-pitch sound. ‘Torso of the Week’ is loud and epitomises the mystifying sound that leaves the band in a genre of its own. ‘Choice Mountain’ is cute in a way that no other track is, it tip-toes its way into the album, away from the mash-up of lyrics and instruments that rally wildly in ‘Feet of Hands’ and ‘Arc’. Final track ‘Don’t Try’ offers an explicit insight into relationships and an implicit peek into the craze of the Everything
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Everything boys, who continue to splurge ideas together in quite a handsome way. The track has a glimpse of the band’s 2009 single ‘MY,KZ,UR,BF’ but scores a strike, where other tracks on the album leave one pin standing. It’s possible the album goes missing in the middle, after it begins emphatically, via ‘Cough Cough’ and ‘Kemosabe’ which naturally set a terrifyingly high standard. But Arc delivers their trademark sound acutely, with incomprehensible lyrics and a complete one-off sound.
WILLY MASON carry on
7/10 words by sally rose mccormack
Carry On has been a long time coming, with Willy Mason going off into musical solitude for the past five years.
added zest that can be heard on ‘Restless Fugitive’, which is an impressive six minutes long.
He didn’t completely cut himself off from his fans, he collaborated with Lianne La Havas on her debut record and supported Ben Howard on his UK tour. These practices were good warm ups for his eleven track album, produced by Dan Carey.
Carry On at times almost feels like the record was just a stop by to make sure people remembered him, but who can forget such a voice, likened to the great that is Dylan. Mason has already forged himself well and truly into the minds of the music world, and he knows he doesn’t need to prove himself to anyone.
The MIA producer adds an extra dimension needed for an album five years in the making, though this isn’t Mason’s attempt to jump on some sort of electro pop bandwagon. He is still the folky, gravel voiced artist we know and love, just with
This album may not capture many newbies, but Willy Mason’s stripped back approach to folk is a thing of beauty.
BLINK 182 dogs eating dogs 8/10 words by katie pathiaki
On the first day of christmas, a punk band gave to me... one new EP! Blink 182 are back with five brand new tracks, after their 2011 release Neighborhoods received negative reviews. Thankfully, only one track on the EP mutters the word ‘Christmas’.
The first three tracks, similar to Neighborhoods, contain nothing outrageous or breathtaking. ‘When I Was Young’ rolls into ‘Dogs Eating Dogs’ without much of a change, which then glitters to a very Angel And Airwaves influenced ‘Disaster’ track. The fifth track, ‘Pretty Little Girl’ is also a Festively titled ‘Boxing Day’ came to be shock with drummer Travis Barker to blame most surprisingly, a breath of fresh air. The - the first verse and chorus are torn apart by ballad cannot be compared to anything Blink rapper Yelawolf. have made before. Although, the first verse sounds like Smash Mouth’s ‘All Star’, and as This EP was more than enough, it proved to soon as you’ve heard it, you can’t un-hear it. fans all over that there are still big things to However, Hoppus and Delonge’s beautiful come from Blink 182. harmonising melts away any doubt of Blink 182 as a band.
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haim don’t save me
8/10 words by tal dekel-daks
Three-sister-troupe Haim deliver a slice of 80’s beats, cowbells and proper vocals fresh from the Los Angeles’ Valleys in their latest EP, Don’t Save Me, which sees an addition of another new track, ‘Send Me Down’ demanding much? ‘Send Me Down’, the Californian indiepoppers B-side single on the EP, is slightly heavier sounding than the catchy A-side. We get less Dixie Chicks folky harmonies and more brooding, stomping percussion. Este, Danielle and Alana Haim’s rhythmic latest single, ‘Don’t Save Me’ has reached positive critical acclaim, and has been taken under Zane Lowe’s loving arms, winning the polls to be number one for the BBC’s sound of 2013.
Not only that, but December saw them raking in more fans when they played to a brimming London O2 crowd alongside The Maccabees and floaty Florence And The Machine. A performance which struck up attention among the crowd and respect for this new Californian talent in the capital. What’s next for the long-tressed sisters? While we hear about their US tour supporting Mumford And Sons with Ben Howard and Danielle Haim’s collaboration with Major Lazer, the world is patiently craving an announcement date for a full-blown Haim album.
villagers awayland
9/10 words by sally rose mccormack
Much like Connor O’Brien’s hair, Awayland is work, the combination of boops and beeps an odd but rare beauty. with tinny guitars and violins, yet ‘The Waves’ proves us all wrong. This album is filled for forty-three minutes with pure beauty, O’Brien’s Irish twang and Now, Villagers haven’t become an Irish charm once again manages to combine a House Mafia - which the grandeur of mish mash of elements perfectly. ‘Nothing Arrived’ proves. It’s just that elements of his debut have been pushed so If you’re looking for a folk album to play much further. The line “I guess I was busy in the background of a dinner party you when nothing came” dances alongside the may get an unexpected surprise. ‘Earthly cheery piano riff, reflecting Villagers’ ability Pleasures’ stands out on the album and is a to stay away from moaning boys with guitars perfect example of the odd beauty Villagers stereotype; yet they still manage to punch have created. you in the heart with O’Brien’s lyrics. This far from just a folk album, Awayland has achieved a brilliant fusion of electronic beats and folk heart. On paper it shouldn’t
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This is still the Villagers, but it’s the Villagers plugged in to some serious voltage and you need some.
THis town needs guns 13.0.0.0.0
8.5/10 words by chris rickett
Like your music mechanical yet so organic it makes your body ripple? Ladies and gentlemen, re-introducing TTNG. Formerly known as This Town Needs Guns, the Oxford four-piece turned reshuffledthree-piece are back with a sophomore spectacular in 13.0.0.0.0 – just four years after their cult-classic debut Animals.
sided and crafted. ‘I’ll Take The Minute Snake’ shows enhanced song structure, ‘2 Birds’ shows greater fragility and the instrumental tracks bleed more significance and oomph.
With a special breed of ‘nerdish pop’ the feel is slightly different here. It can be just as powerful and purposeful, but whilst also having its own dalliances in patience Rebirth is the muse here in this Mayanand vulnerability. The musicianship has themed record. Bass lines are more not suffered a note however and, in the intelligent and independent, drums have less complexities of Tim Collis’ harp-esque guitar pace and a sharper bite, and new vocalist noodles, finding a power chord is harder Henry Tremain spills a more melodic charm than finding the Higgs Boson. in even tenderer address. For apocalyptic love songs that specialise in The album explodes with ‘Cat Fantastic’, the subtleties, look no further. a hopscotching carousel ride of hypnotic guitar – but the record is much more multi-
Dutch Uncles out of touch
6/10 words by sally rose mccormack
Looking like they’ve just walked out of school in a musical rebellion rather than uncle-hood, Dutch Uncles have hit us with a third album, Out of Touch. People playing the ‘lets draw comparisons game’ is something that happens to Dutch Uncles regularly. Lazy listeners will instantly hear Hot Chip and throw them in to that pile, but this packs a little more punch. Maybe not punch, more like a gentle nudge accompanied by a driving drumbeat. It’s far from ground breaking and similar to previous work, but why fix what ain’t broke? There are, however, less punchy little guitar
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riffs playing on a loop and a sense of naivety, which only works in their favor. It’s grown up and laid back, this isn’t a debut album, they know their way around a studio and what they want. If you are really desperate for their older stuff then ‘Nometo’ may sit well with you. The guitar riff and use of the intertwining synth stands out over the singing in this song. This album isn’t the uncle that takes you to the fair, but neither is it the creepy one, it’s the uncle that remembers your birthday, on occasion.
Physical Music words by jordan ball
In this digital age, it seems that less is more. MP3s are a cheaper and easier way of consuming music than we’ve ever had before, and websites such as Music Magpie do a roaring trade, as people look to clear out “unnecessary” CDs. However, there is a backlash of sorts as some physical music products, particularly vinyl and band t-shirts, have seen a revival and rise in fortunes, which has actually coincided with the arrival of the MP3. Today there remains a large number of people, including myself, who like to have and hold the bands they love. The music is one thing, but studying the liner notes on the sleeve of the vinyl you’re listening to, whilst bearing their logo on your chest, is the real experience for an increasing number of music fans. And with many bands being constant victims of illegal downloading, selling the physical experience is financially rewarding and often actually an integral part of an artist’s survival. Whilst I appreciate the convenience of music in an electronic file format, for me, nothing will beat the material experience of music, and long may it remain at the heart of the industry.
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LIVE REVIEWS
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mumford & sons O2 arena, london // 11.12.12 //
words by rosie baker-smith photography by andrea sartorati // michael dornbierer // mike mantin
The folk feel of Mumford is visible as we enter the crowd. Huge, white fairy lights drift from the ceiling centre to the stage, transforming the venue into a rustic barn dance as opposed to an arena. Opening with ‘Babel’, the first song on the bands follow up album that was released in September, the excitement in the room is almost tangible. Pausing in-between songs to thank the crowd for attending the bands biggest ever indoor show. Lead singer, Marcus Mumford, fills the arena with the perfectly sung songs that have made the band so loved. ‘White Blank Page’ calms the atmosphere, where swaying smiles replace the excited reactions from ‘Below My Feet’. Curiously, I notice Marcus is repeatedly removing his earpiece as the crescendos and finales of the songs approach. At first I presume there are technical issues, but then I look at his face. He isn’t worried or searching backstage to catch the eye of a sound technician, instead, he’s glancing around the arena, the band and the stage, captivated by the crowds singing in admiration of the band. It’s a feeling that trembles on the faces of each band member, that even after performing ten shows so far on the Tour of Two Halves, they couldn’t be happier.
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Presenting a perfect balance of tracks from the first album, Sigh No More, the crowd are drawn-in to the honest and stripped back talent presented by the Brit Award winning band. Marcus stops for a moment to inform the crowd - much to their disappointment - that he is not in fact slowly stripping throughout the set, but that the buttons on his lived-in shirt are popping open despite his best efforts to conserve his bare chest. The crowd laughs and smiles in awe. Disappearing from the stage, you would presume the band were preparing themselves to come back for an encore, yet when we heard the keyboard it was not where we expected. Featured in the centre of the standing area of the 02 Arena is a raised, square platform and yes, the four boys have somehow secretly arrived there for their encore. Already tranquillised and stunned by their close proximity, the band extend their surprise to the audience by turning off their microphones to acoustically perform to a sold out arena that holds 20,000. Give or take a few confused fans that persist in frantically shouting “your microphones aren’t on!” silence fills the room, fairy lights glow and the four men sing ‘Reminder’ and ‘Sister’. It’s intense, magical and moving. The band returns to the main stage and follow their acoustic set with the excitement of ‘The Cave’. Los Angeles supporting act, Dawes is welcomed back and the two bands unite to perform a Beatles cover of ‘With A Little Help From My Friends’. The atmosphere has reached an electric peak and the stage has become a platform of dancing and shared microphone singing where nothing seems rehearsed. The band are simply showing the crowd what their music’s truly all about and you know they want it to be a night you’ll never forget.
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FRANK TURNER the joiners, southampton // 28.12.12 //
words by will richards photography by andrew black // rufus owlieba
If you live anywhere south of London, you’ll have heard of The Joiners Arms in Southampton. You might’ve discovered your new favourite band playing there, or seen a band playing a lowly support slot, who have since made it big, making you look the fool for escaping to the bar during their set. When you enter the venue, aside the feeling of needing to wash your hands, the walls are adorned with gig posters from when some of the world’s biggest bands played The Joiners’ sweaty, tiny stage. Oasis, Suede, Radiohead, Kasabian, At The Drive-In and Green Day have all played this venue as part of ‘toilet tours’ during their early careers, which were the absolute foundations for their success, and without them, they couldn’t hope to be where they are now. The Joiners has been threatened with closure recently due to consistently dwindling attendance to gigs, and the rally of support which followed this realisation just shows how much the city of Southampton, and the underground UK music scene, needs The Joiners. “Come ye, come ye, to toilet circuit touring stops.” Come ye is exactly what singer-songwriter Frank Turner did in the final few days of 2012. The Winchester-born
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Turner played The Joiners to raise funds to try and save the venue. Tickets for the show sold out in 90 seconds, and it turned out that there was a mix-up and the venue had actually sold out one and a half times in 90 seconds. So, disappoint 75 people and tell them they can’t actually go? Nah, Turner just agreed to play twice in a day. On his birthday. His third gig in 24 hours. Frank was obviously drained and exhausted during this, the second gig of the day - he also played a matinee show - yet the one thing that was never compromised was his passion for the venue and keeping it alive. “I’ll play until I can’t play any more”, he exclaimed, and by the end of his final track ‘Photosynthesis’, he was probably telling the truth. There was a bucket on stage next to Turner, and after a few start-up songs, he explained that if people in the crowd held up a note and placed it in the bucket, he’d play a song of their choice, providing he could remember how to play it, which on a few occasions he couldn’t. At once, £20 notes were flying in the air and Turner went on to play some real rarities, such as first album tracks ‘Worse Things Happen At Sea’ and
‘Father’s Day’, written back in the times he would’ve been playing to a half-full Joiners Arms; gigs without which he couldn’t have hoped to headline Wembley Arena last Spring. Frank pledged to double everything in the bucket at the end of the night out of his own pocket, even though, by his own admission, he’s “not a wealthy man”. “So bankrupt me, motherfuckers!” It’s easy for artists to lose sight of where they came from when they’re touring the world and selling out Wembley, but Frank Turner came back to his home county. Possessing a lack of sleep and energy, yet playing the stage he has played many times before to two sold out crowds in a day, for free - all to try and secure the future of this venue, the venue that allowed him, as a kid playing the guitar in his bedroom, to come down and play some of his first shows. If The Joiners dies, so do the opportunities available to a whole host of new and exciting local musicians and bands along the south coast, and that isn’t something that should be allowed to happen. Long live The Joiners.
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ELECTRIC SIX
Electric Six aptly entertained an expectant Bournemouth crowd as they returned to The Old Fire Station, 10 years after they last played the venue.
old firestation, bournemouth // 12.12.12 //
Dick Valentine controlled the crowd from start-to-finish intertwining glimpses of stand-up with a packed set, which featured the bands debut album Fire in its entirety - an album that Valentine said “put us here today”.
all too quickly. ‘Nuclear War’ and ‘Getting To The Jam’ followed, before Valentine labelled Bournemouth as, “the most comfortable venue of the tour, from the lighting to the distance that the audience are away.” ‘Synthesizer’ and ‘Vengeance Fashion’ led to a motionless Valentine asking the audience to “savour every minute” of the gig, something he was doing himself as he rattled his hands and shook his pelvis to ‘I’m The Bomb’.
‘Crazy Horses’ rocked out of the five-piece band first, before Valentine enquired about the drugs issue in the town and a fan reminded the lead singer that they were in fact ‘in Boscombe!’
The band dictated the whole set, even dismissing shouts of requests from a wild crowd. Valentine was dripping and hauled a towel around his neck to prepare for what was a disappointing finish.
‘Dance Commander’ geared up an already edgy crowd in front of the flurry of onstage lights and a grinning, fist-clenching, 40-year-old front man. Valentine is somewhat lovable, repeatedly thanking the people of Bournemouth in his overruling Detroit accent. Heads propped up and t-shirts flew off to the sound of “fire in the disco” as ‘Danger! High Voltage’ turned it up another notch inside a now sizzling Fire Station.
The final songs ‘Devil Nights’ and ‘Buy The Drugs’ were energetic, Valentine handed over to his sun-shaded guitarist to give the audience a hypnotic solo. There was still time for a sniff of a joke about the late Ravi Shankar, involving legends McCartney and Cobain before leaving the stage.
words by ben fisher
An encore that was always going to happen, given Valentines’ happiness on stage, included ‘Chocolate Pope’ and ‘Rip It’. In a disappointing yet nevertheless frantic finish, Valentine admitted to cooling down “inbetween hits” by performing ‘French Bacon’ seconds after Valentine insisted “customer and ‘Improper Dancing’ before hit track ‘Gay satisfaction is key to what we are doing”, Bar’ seamlessly moved the sitting audience fans left the venue still crying out for another rendition of ‘Gay Bar’. to standing. The crowd were sent into raptures by the infamous 2003 track, although it was over
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BEN HOWARD o2 academy, bournemouth // 25.11.12 //
words by hannah smithson
Rewind to 2011, Ben Howard was exciting stuff - he’d toured our summer festivals around the country and was rumoured to be the up and coming star of the year. One year on, Ben Howard and co. have a worldwide following, covered insanely popular songs on the radio, including their live lounge version of Carly Rey Jepson’s ‘Call Me Maybe’, which has had over six million views on Youtube and his debut album Every Kingdom has been nominated for the 2012 Mercury prize after a successful tour in the US.
place as a curious energy filled the room. The three layered hall of the academy filled up to the gods, had eager ears listening and awaiting the first appearance.
But more importantly, this well respected and highly talented musician came back to Bournemouth to bring his biggest headline tour to a sold out show at Bournemouth’s O2 academy this November.
‘Burgh Island’ and ‘Esmerelda’ have a slightly darker feel to them and the academy listens intently to the world premier of ‘White Lights’, written at the same time as ‘Esmerelda’.
In the long queue, hoards of fans braved the wind and rain to make it to the show and upon entrance, it was clear by the sheer amount of people that his initial loyal following of surfers and music lovers had swollen to a huge sea of Ben Howard enthusiasts. Despite the number of people, there still remained a calm and common minded atmosphere. Everyone was there to bask in the beautiful melodies from his debut album Every Kingdom.
Ben comments: “I don’t remember it being this big here.”
Guests were welcomed by the raw folk rhythms of Willy Mason on arrival, filling the stage with the American folk musician’s, who was rumoured to be Ben’s warm up act, signature sounds. A few lively country tunes later and excitement oozed throughout the
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A spotlight hit the stage and a familiar figure strolled casually and cooly onto stage with fellow bandmates India Bourne, and the Bond brothers. Ben began with famous favourites whilst echoes of ‘Old Pine’ and ‘Diamonds’ linger as the crowd awaits some of his unreleased EPs.
An encore encourages the last couple of tunes out of the band in which an impressive version of ‘Promise’ plays out to backdrop footage of driving home. Ben salutes a satisfied and mesmerised ocean of supporters who will come back again and again to hear the therapeutic tones of this unique and inspiring artist.
MOVEMENTS IN MUSIC words by samuel cornforth illustration by sam hollande
Glasgow Glasgow has been described as the city which can match the musical movement of Birmingham. With a huge emphasis recently being put on the return of guitar bands, but it looks like electro pop act CHVRCHES are set to steal the spotlight. Despite only playing a few shows and the presence of only a couple of songs online, it is clear the band are set for pop stardom. Whilst fellow Glaswegians Paws have shown they can drown out any rival fuzz friendly bands with their thrilling noise and Holy Esque are producing surging, lungbusting anthemic tracks.
Bournemouth 2011 saw the boom of the Bournemouth music scene as Bos Angeles’ ‘Beach Slalom’ hit the web and was met by a surge of hype. Rich Board’s project later disbanded but helped bring the spotlight to other Bournemouth based bands. Bournemouth has become a DIY birthing ground with the likes of Yoofs, Vlad and Hazey & The J’s showing it has a very healthy music scene.
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Birmingham A year or so ago all that Birmingham was famed for was The Twang - the musical equivalent of a can of Carlsberg. However, Birmingham is now one of the biggest music scenes in the country and is so important it is has its own nickname - ‘BTOWN’. The band Peace waved the flag for Brummies with an impressive collection of indie hits with dance-floor credentials and subtle tinges of grunge; as well as a billboard in their hometown which says “What the fuck Birmingham” and the most elaborate jacket collection of any indie band. Swim Deep were challenged by Peace to deface their billboard, as BTOWN pals and they were the second Brummie band to secure a major deal. The beach grunge vibes that they possess translate into their dreamy music which has deliriously irresistible hooks. Completing the big three for Birmingham is Jaws, relative newcomers compared to Peace and Swim Deep, who deliver an immersive sound of dreamy synths and slacker rock. Heavy Waves, Victories At Sea and Wide Eyed are other Birmingham bands that look set to warrant nationwide attention soon.
London London may not be a tight knit music scene due to the diversity and size of the area, however, it is home to some of the best new bands in the country. South of the river, hailing from Lambeth, are Palma Violets whom have had the biggest expectation placed upon them out of any other new bands. It is easy to see why when you listen to debut single ‘Best of Friends’ which will fast become a festival anthem. Palma Violets shared a stage earlier this year with UK tour co-headliners Savages, a post-punk foursome who are currently recording their debut album and are famed for their singer Jehnny Beth’s venomous delivery during live shows. London was the chosen destination for the Aussies and Kiwis in Splashh who have conjured up all their woozy summery feelings in garage rock gems. Childhood, Cheatahs, Aluna George, Only Real and Wolf Alice are other London based groups that show how influential the capital can be for new music.
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Songs to dance to playlist Men Without Hats // The Safety Dance The Front Bottoms // Maps Tall Ships // Gallop Gold Panda // You Queen // Under Pressure Foals // My Number Florence and the Machine // Dog Days Junior Senior // Move Your Feet Los del Rio // Macarena Vampire Weekend // A-Punk
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THE LIFE OF ZIGGY words by julie cornu
The Thin White Duke, Ziggy Stardust, the Goblin King: call him what you will, David Bowie has returned. After a decade of ponderous silence, his 66th birthday present came in the form of a single. ‘Where Are We Now?’ has reminded us all of what it is we love about the King Midas of pop rock: eerie, haunting and gentle, Bowie fans around the world heaved a hefty sigh of relief. But Bowie’s croon is, arguably, only an iota of his talent. His persona, his outfits, his mannerisms - these are the things which ascended him to the position of the transcendent musical icon which he continues to be today. David Bowie will always rhyme with innovative music, tantalising performances and the inevitable catsuit. Well aware of this, London’s Victoria and Albert Museum is curating an unprecedented international exhibition celebrating what makes David Bowie, well, David Bowie. 300 objects from the David Bowie Archive will be displayed from late March until July, each has never before been seen and each is more heteroclite than the other. The exhibition will tour through Bowie’s collaborations with artists and designers in all facets of fashion, including long-time collaborator Tony Visconti who produced some of Bowie’s most outstanding post-glam rock and, most recently, the haunting music video for ‘Where Are We Now?’
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But, primarily, think of 300 objects of David Bowie. Think of original album artwork and annotated sketches. Think of Bowie’s own instruments and lyrics written by his own scrawny hand. Think of original set designs and authentic costumes - yes, that does mean the original 1972 Ziggy Stardust bodysuit. Think of all of these ephemera, then throw in some of Bowie’s diary entries, and we believe we have on our hands an unrivaled account of one of the best musical innovators of all time. Selected by the V&A’s Theatre and Performance curators, these items have never before been brought together. Some of them have never even been displayed. The museum will also be producing a signed collector’s edition book titled ‘David Bowie Is’, it delineates his musical career from his first steps with the Konrads back in the 60s to the new millennium and his international stardom. Assembled by hand and encased in perspex, the most prominent feature of ‘David Bowie Is’ lies inevitably in its lithographic print, signed by the Thin White Duke himself. With Bowie’s next album - concurrently titled The Next Day - being released in March, we can hardly think of a better way to punctuate such an event. At the very least, it will keep hopeful fans who continue to cross their fingers for a prospective world tour satiated.
POP goes the tate words by jodie packwood
If Andy Warhol will be eternally famed for his eccentric portraits of Marilyn Monroe and iconic depiction of Campbell’s Soup, then Lichtenstein is simply the man behind ‘the pictures with the dots’. Granted, his 1960s pop art work is some of his most iconic, but from February 21st London’s Tate Modern will be showcasing more of the American’s work in an attempt to prove that he was much more than just ‘the dot guy’. Having studied art in Ohio and lectured in both New York and New Jersey, Lichtenstein first rose to the attention of the public in 1962 following a show at Castelli Gallery in NYC. With their stark primary colours and thick black outlines, pieces such as ‘Whaam!’ and ‘Drowning Girl’ are without a doubt two of his most recognisable pieces, but the exhibition in London will be displaying over 125 of Lichtenstein’s paintings, sculptures and rarely seen drawings.
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The exhibition is the first major retrospective to take place for over 20 years, the artist’s rich and expansive practice will be represented through a wide range of materials, including paintings on rowlux and steel, as well sculptures in ceramic and brass, collages and works of paper. His work is currently on show in various different major galleries around the world, with key pieces held at the Tate, the Museum of Modern Art in New York, and the Museum of Contemporary Art in Los Angeles. Lichtenstein: A Retrospective will takes place from Thursday 21st February - Monday 27th May 2013 at Tate Modern, London.
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MOVING PICTURES: PREVIEWS words by beth graham
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21 AND OVER For those who are fans of The Hangover, this one is for you. To be released 29th March 2013, 21 And Over is about a top of the class student celebrating his 21st birthday the night before a big medical school interview. What began as a quick drink then leads on to a night of madness and mayhem - if you’ve seen The Hangover you’ve probably got a pretty accurate picture of 21 And Over, as both films share the same writers. Starring Skylar Austin, from recent comedy Pitch Perfect, and Miles Teller from musical Footloose, this film looks set to make audiences laugh throughout the country.
JOHN DIES AT THE END Written by Don Coscarelli and David Wong, John Dies At The End describes itself as a comedy/fantasy/horror, it is due to hit the UK on 22nd March 2013. This film tells the story of a new drug that has hit the streets and promises to transport users across time and dimensions – but not everyone who returns to reality is human... With an invasion underway it is down to two college dropouts to prevent the horror and save humanity. The film is full of fairly new acting faces but with a win under their belt at the Philadelphia Film Festival and multiple nominations at the Chicago International Film Festival and Toronto International Film Festival it must be worth a watch.
robot and frank To be released March 8th 2013, Robot And Frank is a heart-warming tale about a retired jewel thief and a robot. Frank, who lives in New England, is given a robot by his son as a home helper and carer. However, Frank soon realises that the robot has no moral compass which spurs him on to use it to undertake a series of cat burglaries in his local neighbourhood. The film depicts the friendship between the robot and Frank, as well as a budding relationship between Frank and a local librarian. The film is short, standing at 89 minutes, so it’s an easy watch and means you can avoid a numb bum!
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ALTERNATIVE
ROAD FILMS Route 66, motorbikes and meditative long shots of forlorn characters riding off into the sunset all come to mind when we think of road movies. Yet, for every one of these films, that features Dennis Hopper, Hells Angels and a Steppenwolf soundtrack, there’s plenty of others that use the road movie format to provide subtly meditative tales of life, love and loss. Here’s our top 5 alternative road movies words by nick reilly
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1-LITTLE MISS SUNSHINE Husband and wife duo Jonathan Dayton and Valerie Faris stunned Hollywood with their feature debut, which took the age old tale of dysfunctional American families and put it on wheels. The film follows the Hoover family who take a cross country trip to allow youngest daughter Olive the opportunity to compete in a beauty pageant. They’re a family in crisis, but the commitment to Olive’s cause drives the film’s emotion. They simultaneously attempt to deal with a suicidal uncle played by Steve Carell - and a conflicted teenage son, portrayed to grunting nuanced perfection by Paul Dano. But it’s Alan Arkin that undoubtedly rules the screen as the pot smoking grandad that gave him his second Oscar win. It’s part anarchic, part uplifting and all masterpiece.
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2-TRANSAMERICA Road movies don’t come as warped and unconventional as this one. Felicity Huffman gives a career best performance as a pre-op transsexual forced to travel from Los Angeles to bail out the son she never knew she had from jail. The journey back isn’t so straight forward as Huffman learns all about responsibility, whilst her son slowly comes to terms with what his father has become. It’s a slow burner and seems overwrought at times, but Huffman’s performance is a revelation.
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3-SIDEWAYS Director Alexander Payne has gone far in carving a niche as a great humanist of American Cinema, telling the stories of unremarkable folk with remarkable stories, reaching crisis laden crossroads in their lives. Sideways is his undoubted masterpiece, telling the story of two old friends who undertake a road trip to California’s wine country, played by Thomas Haden Church and Paul Giamatti respectively. Payne expertly uses the road trip format to shape the story of love, loss and mid-life crisis. Oh, and wine, lots and lots of wine.
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4-THE DARJEELING LIMITED Wes Anderson’s fifth directorial outing is as much of an oddball encounter as you’d expect from the indie auteur. It definitely isn’t a road movie in the traditional sense, with gleaming Harleys replaced by trains, whilst the sunsets of Route 66 are replaced with a crosscountry trek across India. This doesn’t stop the film’s movement playing out like a road movie of sorts, as three disconnected brothers embark on a journey of self discovery. The quirky indie sensibilities that have proved to be Anderson’s auteur signature are only too evident with the sun-soaked plains of India tinged with a unique sense of melancholia that manifests itself in the three brothers, played to pitch perfection by Adrien Brody and the Wilson siblings.
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5-BORAT The adventures of an inept, culturally naive Kazahkstani in America doesn’t necessarily seem like an archetypal road movie, but Borat’s journey across the states in a clapped out Ice Cream van couldn’t be more typical of the road movie spirit. What appears to be a comedic view of America through the eyes of a foreigner emerges as some of the most biting satire of recent years, with Sacha Baron Cohen expertly using the character as a catalyst to expose the misgivings of American society. Whether it’s the moment at the Rodeo when he stirs up a crowd of rednecks with his cry “May George Bush drink the blood of every, man, woman and child in Iraq” or the answer he receives to the question “What is the best gun to defend against a jew”, Borat is a masterpiece, using the road trip format to show that the land of the free isn’t as rosy as we once thought.
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I am thankful for compiled by briana millett • illustrations by jenny cooper
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the way my mum gives the best hugs my hot water bottle the smell of my favourite Yankee candle my hairdresser’s magical massaging hands strangers who smile PostSecret crumpets toasted on an open fire when Topshop have a really good sale freshly washed sheets cups of coffee on cold days J.K. Rowling the soothing sound of rain on skylight windows getting mail from someone special, not from the bank when my penny jar is full sliding around in socks on a wooden floor umbrellas
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TEA AND CAKE words and photography by georgia scarr
More history, more chocolate We explored the edible side of Winchester
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The Bridge Patisserie Winchester The venue: Nestled away at the end of Winchester’s High Street, The Bridge Patisserie is a charming spot I waited far too long to visit. The clean-cut white walls studded with vintage French posters and fairytale-esque artwork make this café a chic sanctuary on a cloudy spring day. It isn’t just the stylish interior that makes The Bridge Patisserie so inviting: their staff are lively and welcoming - it’s no wonder the place has an admirable clutch of regulars. If the dashing design and warm service aren’t enough to tempt you in, it’s worth visiting just to admire their chocolate reproduction of Winchester Cathedral - yes, really.
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The products: The Bridge Patisserie prides itself on baking many treats instore, and the passion they put into them is unmissable. With striking cakes and mounds of elegant Belgian chocolates on display, this is truly a dessert-lover’s paradise. Try an individual tart jewelled with glazed fruit (£3.50) accompanied by an aromatic loose-leaf tea (£2.50) for a luxurious afternoon bite.
While you’re there: Wander through the stunning city centre or visit Jane Austen’s final resting place in Winchester Cathedral. Perfect for: Unashamed chocolate and pastry fiends.
in season recipes by briana millett • photography by charlotte dart
Plate up the finest produce of February and March with these dishes showcasing sweet potatoes, parsnips and lemons... and prepare for warmer weather while you’re at it!
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Serves four Red onion marmalade is a must to make in advance for any spring picnic. Until it warms up outside, use it to fill these tasty rustic tarts. For the red onion marmalade: 80g butter 1kg red onions, finely sliced 250g light brown sugar 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp dried thyme 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar For the tartlets: 200g ready-rolled puff pastry 4 thin slices of goat’s cheese
Caramelised red onion and goat’s cheese tartlets For the red onion marmalade: 1. Melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the onions and cook for 5-7 minutes.
For the tartlets: 1. Preheat the oven to 220˚C/425˚F/Gas Mark 7.
2. Add the sugar and stir in gently. Add the 2. Cut the pastry into four even rectangles. garlic, thyme and balsamic vinegar and cook Spread three heaped teaspoons of red on a high heat for 20-25 minutes. onion marmalade over each piece of pastry, leaving a half inch border, and place a slice 3. Allow to cool and pour into an airtight jar. of goat’s cheese in the middle. Store in a cool dark cupboard and ideally leave for around a month before eating. 3. Bake for 25 minutes and serve hot. Once opened use within three weeks.
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Serves four A white sauce spiked with vibrant horseradish brings this season’s classic root vegetables to life. Ingredients: 4 carrots, peeled and sliced 1 small swede, peeled and sliced 2 sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced 50g butter 50g plain flour 550ml milk 1 tbsp horseradish sauce 50g cheddar cheese, grated 4 chicken breasts 8 rashers of bacon
CHICKEN WRAPPED IN BACON WITH CREAMY VEGETABLES 1. Preheat the oven to 220˚C/425˚F/Gas Mark 7. Bring the carrots, swede and sweet potatoes to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for five minutes. 2. Melt the butter in a pan and thoroughly stir in the flour. Leave on a low heat and slowly whisk in the milk. Add the horseradish sauce and season to taste. 3. Drain the vegetables and combine with the sauce. Pour the mixture into a casserole dish and sprinkle the cheese over. Put to one side.
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4. Wrap the chicken breasts in bacon. Place the chicken on a baking tray and bake alongside the vegetable dish for 30 minutes.
Serves eight Excess parsnips don’t have to be a burden. Grate them into this fresh-tasting cake for a secret vitamin kick. For the cake: 250g butter 250g caster sugar 4 eggs 5 tbsp milk 250g self raising flour, sifted 250g parsnips, peeled and grated Pinch of salt For the frosting: 200g cream cheese Grated zest and juice of one lemon 100g icing sugar, sifted
PARSNIP CAKE WITH LEMON CREAM CHEESE FROSTING For the cake: 1. Preheat the oven to 180˚C/350˚F/Gas Mark 4. Cream together the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy. 2. Gently beat in the eggs and milk. 3. Fold in the flour. 4. Add the grated parsnips and salt, and combine thoroughly. Pour the mixture into a greased 9-inch cake tin and bake for 30 minutes.
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For the frosting: 1. Beat the cream cheese slightly to soften it. Add the lemon zest and juice. 2. Add the icing sugar until the frosting begins to thicken and hold its form. Make sure to add the icing sugar gradually to get the right consistency. 3. Spread the frosting evenly onto the cooled cake and serve.
DIY Decor Bring some kitsch romance and nostalgia into your home with these handmade ornaments
PHOTO BANNER This banner is a great way to avoid having photo frames on every available surface, but still allows you to display the photos you love without damaging your walls. You will need Drawing pins Twine Wooden pegs A selection of your favourite photographs
1. Tie a drawing pin onto each end of twine and pin into the wall. 2. Peg your photographs to the string.
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words by briana millett • photography by charlotte dart
heart garland These heart garlands can cost around £20, so save yourself a few pennies and make your own. They make a great decoration for any bookcase or curtain pole.
You will need Cardboard Patterned fabric Plain white fabric Twine Toy stuffing - available from craft stores
1. Make a template heart shape from a piece of cardboard. Using the template, cut out 14 heart shapes from the patterned fabric and 14 from the white fabric. 2. Cut seven 20cm lengths of twine. Knot the two ends of each length to create a loop. 3. Pin together four of the fabric hearts: two patterned and two white. Ensure that the white fabric is on the outside so the patterned fabric will show when the heart is turned out.
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4. Sew the piece of looped twine to the middle of one of the white fabric hearts. Sew the edges of the heart together, leaving a few centimetres loose. Turn the heart shape out through the hole and fill with toy stuffing. 5. Carefully sew up the remaining edge and repeat with the rest of your material. 6. Cut a 1.5m length of twine, loop on the hearts and hang.
good morning recipes by georgia scarr • photography by charlotte dart and georgia scarr
Make the most important meal of the day the most delicious one too
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Tomato and herb beans on toast Ingredients 2 tsp olive oil 1 garlic clove, crushed and finely chopped 400g tinned tomatoes ½ tbsp balsamic vinegar 400g tin mixed bean salad, drained 1/2 tsp smoked paprika Small bunch of parsley, chopped 2 large slices of toast and butter, to serve
1. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan. Add the garlic and fry gently until golden. 2. Add the tinned tomatoes, balsamic vinegar and mixed beans. Simmer for 10 minutes to thicken. 3. Add the paprika and parsley, and season generously. Spoon onto buttered toast to serve.
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CLASSIC BREAKFAST STACK Ingredients 4 rashers of streaky bacon 2 Portobello mushrooms 2 eggs Large handful of fresh spinach
1. Run the flat of a knife along each rasher of bacon to stretch them. Fold each rasher along its length and cut it in half. Arrange the two halves into a heart shape and press them down at the points to secure. 2. Place the bacon hearts and mushrooms on a lined baking sheet and grill for 12-15 minutes. Turn halfway through. 3. Fry the eggs.
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4. In a saucepan, heat the spinach with a splash of boiling water until wilted. 5. Place the spinach in the centre of the plates, and layer the cooked eggs, mushrooms and bacon hearts on top.
AMERICAN-STYLE BANANA BREAD PANCAKES Ingredients 150g plain flour 2 tsp baking powder 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground mixed spice 1 egg 100ml milk 1 large banana, mashed Sunflower oil, for frying Yoghurt, fruit or syrup, to serve
1. Sift the flour, baking powder and spices into a bowl. Make a small well in the middle. 2. Crack the egg into the well. Whisk and add the milk gradually until the mixture has the consistency of single cream. 3. Add the mashed banana and combine thoroughly.
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4. Heat 2 teaspoonfuls of oil over a high heat. When it begins to smoke, place two large spoonfuls of the pancake batter into the pan. Cook until the batter begins to bubble on top, then flip and repeat. Serve with yoghurt, fruit or syrup.
COCONUT AND RED BERRY GRANOLA Ingredients 20ml sunflower oil 30g honey 150g rolled oats 20g whole almonds 2 tbsp coconut flakes 50g mixed dried red berries Yoghurt, fruit or milk, to serve
1. Preheat the oven to 180˚C/350˚F/Gas Mark 4. 2. Place the oil, honey, oats and almonds in a bowl and combine thoroughly. 3. Spread the mixture evenly on to a lined baking sheet and bake for 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown, turning occasionally. 4. Add the coconut flakes and berries, and serve with yoghurt, fruit or milk.
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CALIFORNIA DREAMING This time of year isn’t all grey skies and showers. Look forward to brighter days with this series of San Francisco and Los Angeles photography by shari mahrdt
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who are we?
julia denni editor deputy editor joseph kent joshua saunders features hannah smithson tazz gault fashion tash salmon lauren anthony sally rose mccormack music rosie lord elly rewcastle nick reilly culture jodie packwood georgia scarr lifestyle briana millet photography charlotte dart videography scott craig emily mctavish marketing honor martin sub-editor rachel currie design milly mcculloch lewis allen shanae staple matilde font typedepot
illustrations by juliet stedman
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See you in April
our theme for the next issue is UNSEEN